Peas belong to the legume family. He came to us in Russia from Southeast Asia. Even more specifically: it is believed that the birthplace of peas is North-West India. Today peas are grown in more than 60 countries around the world, in fields and summer cottages. Not worth it once again mention the benefits of green peas, this is already obvious. But there is one interesting fact: it is beneficial to eat at least 3 kg of peas per year. Do you fit into this figure?
Helpful neighborhood
We grow peas on both dacha plots without borrowing money to do so. separate bed, and interspersing it with other crops. There is an unoccupied section of the ridge left - we plant peas. It turns out that this is mega-useful. Peas saturate the soil with nitrogen, which has a beneficial effect on neighboring plants. In addition, pea roots are able to go far into the soil, extracting nutrients from its lower layers. Part useful substances also spreads to neighboring crops. Thus, thanks to peas, the plants receive additional nutrition. That is why peas are considered an excellent inter-row crop.
The best neighbors for peas in the garden
Since we touched on the topic of the benefits of peas for vegetables growing in the neighborhood, let’s list the best neighbors for peas in the garden: where is it better to plant peas, next to which crops. Source of information: book “Preparing the site for spring” (
Next to what you can plant peas:
- with cucumbers,
- carrots,
- potatoes,
- radish,
- corn,
- beans,
- spicy herbs.
It is believed that these cultures go well with each other.
Bad neighbors for peas:
- garlic,
- clover,
- alfalfa.
It is believed that these cultures do not combine with each other.
Predecessors of peas
Peas react sensitively to crops that grew in the garden before them. It is not recommended to plant peas in the same place where they grew last summer. It will be possible to re-sow peas in this area after 4 years.
Good predecessors of peas in the garden:
- cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage, potatoes.
Bad predecessors of peas in the garden:
- legumes (beans and beans).
It is believed that peas can be grown after any vegetable crops, with the exception of “relatives” from the legume family. If a summer resident manages to harvest a pea crop in the first half of summer, then this area can be sown with radishes.
Soil for peas
Despite the fact that peas themselves are capable of enriching the soil with nutrients, they themselves require certain conditions for growth. Let's list them (source: book “Peas, beans and beans”, author Fatyanov V.I.). Regarding the soil:
- Peas love soils that are neutral in acidity. To improve the composition of the soil for peas, add ash (1 cup per 1 square meter).
- The best for peas are sunny areas with an acidity of 6-7.
- Peas grow well on medium sandy and light loamy soils.
- Soil for peas they begin to prepare it in the fall: they dig it deeply and fertilize it, adding half a bucket of humus or compost, 35 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2.
- In the spring, before planting, deep loosening is carried out again.
- In a place where peas have not been grown before, nitragin is added,
- Since the pea itself is good fertilizer, then after harvesting it is recommended to embed the stems and leaves of peas in tree trunk circles under fruit trees or put it in compost.
Doesn't like peas:
- Weeds. It grows poorly in weedy and poor areas, so the soil should be cleared of weeds before planting and the bed should be kept clean throughout the growing season.
- Waterlogged heavy clay soils. Due to dampness, pea leaves turn yellow and the roots rot. The risk of fungal infection also increases.
Favorable conditions:
- Long daylight hours.
- Seeds germinate already at temperatures from +2 to +6 degrees, but the optimal mode is considered to be from +18 to +20 degrees.
- The culture is cold-resistant, and even young seedlings can easily tolerate frosts down to -6 degrees.
Peas ripen depending on the variety:
- late-ripening varieties 100-125 days,
- mid-season 85-100 days,
- early ripening\early ripening 65-85 days,
- super early ripening varieties 40-65 days.
Not everyone is able to grow a good harvest of cabbage on their plot, because it is susceptible to a large number of pests. Many, once disappointed, no longer risk planting this crop. However, if you know what is best to plant next to cabbage, you can extra effort not only naturally protect it from pests, but also improve the composition of the soil.
The mechanism of work of phytoncidal plants
If you have to protect cabbage from flying insects twice a summer - during egg-laying periods (usually the end of May and the beginning of August), then the plant must be protected from bedbugs, rootworms, flea beetles, and beetles throughout the entire growing season. Simultaneous planting is most effective herbs and flowering phytoncidal plants emitting biologically active substances.
Creating natural protection against pests will require some effort only at the initial stage, but later you can get a number of pleasant bonuses:
- improving the taste of cabbage;
- decorating the site throughout the season;
- the opportunity to stock up on your own seasonings and natural medicinal raw materials for the winter.
Useful plantings next to cabbage beds will protect it regardless of weather conditions.
Flowers – protection from insects and healthy soil
The worst enemies of cabbage are the white butterfly and leaf miner. Their larvae are capable of causing irreparable damage in a short time. An effective natural repellent against whiteweed and similar pests are marigolds (tagetes) - ubiquitous bright flowers with a specific smell. If you plant them along the contour of the bed, as well as directly next to the cabbage, then the attractiveness of this place will be lost for butterflies and moths. Marigolds exude phytoncides both from inflorescences and from roots, repelling aphids, whiteflies, mole crickets, moths, protecting against some fungi, as well as nematodes.
A number of other colors have the same properties.
- Calendula, which can be planted once, and in subsequent years the plant is already able to reproduce by self-sowing.
- Tansy. A bush can grow in one place for several years. It should not be planted directly on a bed with cabbage, since tansy has a depressing effect on its growth.
- Chamomile.
Nasturtium is also a phytoncide. But these flowers actively attract aphids, which the ants often transfer to neighboring plants. Many people advise planting nasturtium around cabbage as an “interceptor” for whites and moths, but there is no guarantee that pests will be limited to it.
Of all the flowers suitable for protecting cabbage and other crops, marigolds are still invariably the most popular.
For protection to be effective, care should be taken in advance. By the time the cabbage is planted, the flowers should already be blooming and emitting a scent. Tagetes sprouts literally 3-4 days after sowing, grows at favorable conditions fast, unpretentious. In a month and a half you can grow decent bushes with buds, which need to be planted between rows and along the contour of the ridge.
Healthy neighborhood: herbs and vegetables
Some vegetables and herbs will not only help cope with cabbage pests, but also form a mutually beneficial alliance with it.
The perennial herb tarragon will save you not only from cutworms, but also from leafminer moths. If a large bush grows next to a garden bed, the butterflies become disoriented and instinctively fly around it. It is enough to plant tarragon once for several years, but it is prone to overgrowth, so it is better to immediately fence off the space around it with dug-in border tape.
Sage and savory also effectively repel white butterflies, whiteflies, and flea beetles. And mint also discourages ants, who love to spread aphids, from the garden bed.
It is useful to plant tomato bushes around the cabbage bed. These fragrant plants create a kind of protective halo around themselves, through which cruciferous pests do not pass. This property tomatoes were discovered quite a long time ago and are actively used by many summer residents: after pinching, tomato branches are laid out between the rows of cabbage, radishes, radishes. However, soon after they wither, they lose their abilities, so it is easier to plant several bushes nearby. Moreover, even if the weather does not allow the crop to ripen, the tomatoes will perform their protective function properly.
Not all varieties of cabbage grow well next to tomatoes, so they can be planted along the contour, interspersed with marigolds according to the approximate “1 through 5” pattern.
Cabbage gets along well next to all types of leafy salads, which not only do not compete with it for nutrients, but also stimulate root formation and protect against flea beetles.
Slugs also love to feast on cabbage, especially young leaves. However, these creatures are very gentle and prefer to stay away from traumatic surfaces. This allows you to protect plants by creating a mechanical barrier. If you plant borage (borage) with hard, fleecy leaves along the contour of the bed, then slugs and snails will not encroach on the cabbage. They also do not like the smell of garlic, sage, chicory, onion and rosemary. If you plant these plants along the borders of the cabbage bed, you can protect the seedlings from damage.
Bad "neighbors"
Sometimes, without knowing it, gardeners attract pests by placing unwanted plants next to cabbage. These include celery. This grass repels midges, but at the same time actively attracts the cabbage butterfly.
Plants such as:
- carrot;
- caraway;
- parsnip;
- turnip;
- radish.
The above crops attract white butterflies, as well as leaf miners, whose caterpillars then actively eat the cabbage.
Each plant synthesizes its own substances, which saturate not only the air, but also the soil around it, therefore, when planting different crops together, the nuances of such a neighborhood should be taken into account. Cabbage grows poorly next to gillyflowers, parsley, bush beans, garden strawberries.
It is also important to consider different moisture requirements. For example, spinach should not be planted nearby because it requires significantly more water than cabbage. As a result, root fungus will develop and the formation of heads of cabbage will begin to be inhibited.
Each plant has its own set of nutrients. Cabbage requires quite a lot of nitrogen; tomatoes, onions, and celery also love it. But radishes, nasturtiums and greenery do not need much of this element, so they can be planted along the contour of the beds.
White cabbage and cauliflower do not get along side by side, the yield of both types decreases. Each person needs their own bed, preferably at a distance of at least a meter. Does not love cauliflower and broccoli. Brussels sprouts are more tolerant, but tomatoes should not grow nearby.
Fennel is an extremely aggressive plant, so it should not be planted with cabbage or other vegetables.
Joint plantings (mixed beds), subject to proper selection of crops, help gardeners rationally use useful space, while simultaneously improving yields.
Cabbage usually grows well without requiring special conditions and careful care. Her main enemy– pests. Not all summer residents have the opportunity to regularly cultivate their plantings and collect caterpillars and beetles, so you can take advantage of nature’s help - plant permanent responsible “watchmen” - phytoncides - next to the garden bed and in the aisles. Although they do not provide an absolute guarantee of getting rid of enemy insects, their contribution is very significant.
We decided to supplement our article with visual pictures and additional recommendations, since we often see questions about what can’t be planted next to what, and what can be planted next to?
“Is it possible to plant cabbage and tomatoes next to each other?”, “Can I plant potatoes and cucumbers next to each other?”, “to plant tomatoes and corn next to each other?”, “to plant onions and garlic together?” etc.
A visual sign of Plants “Enemies” and “Friends” for you.
If you don’t match the neighbors of the plants, you can get not just a small harvest, but even be left without it. After all, enemy plants take each other’s useful minerals from the ground, and also suffer from similar diseases and the risk of infection will be 50% greater!
Tomatoes will not be adjacent to carrots, cauliflower, potatoes, fennel, beets and cucumbers. Beans will not like it if onions, peas, garlic, fennel or leeks grow next to it. Beets, kohlrabi or sunflowers are not the best neighbors for beans.
| Plants are ENEMIES | Plants are FRIENDS | ||
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Both cabbage and tomatoes need space and light. They will simply block each other. They also need the same nutrients from the soil, so you should avoid planting them next to each other, otherwise there is a risk of simply stopping the growth of the plants. |  |
Zucchini, squash, corn and beans (and other legumes) can be planted together. |
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Asparagus does not grow well next to onions, as well as garlic. This is because asparagus is a close relative of onions, leeks, garlic, as well as hyacinths and lilies. |  |
Tomato and basil can be planted together. The taste of tomatoes will be improved, the smell of basil and other herbs will repel the pest. Plant them side by side, but not in the same bed. Still, tomatoes need space. And also tomato + garlic are wonderful neighbors. |
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This is not only about competition for space and nutrients, the proximity of dill, fennel, kohlrabi and pepper can lead to the death of plants or to severe growth retardation , but the MAIN THING is that they need different conditions growing. |
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Carrots and radishes can be planted side by side, their root depths are different, the watering required is the same, and carrots will repel pests from radish leaves. |
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Bad neighbors are cucumber, potatoes and salad. You also shouldn’t add aromatic herbs to cucumbers. The exception is dill. Cucumber and dill go well together. |  |
For the same reasons (see above), carrots can be planted next to lettuce. |
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Do not plant corn next to tomatoes - these crops are prone to the same fungal diseases. Potatoes, cucumbers, carrots and beets are bad neighbors for tomatoes. | ||
Each crop in the garden has its own characteristics. One requires enough light, the other feels comfortable in partial shade. The requirements for irrigation and occupied space are also different. The root system of plants is also different. In some plants it goes deep into the soil, while in others the roots are located near the surface of the earth. In addition, some plants have a detrimental effect on one or another pest. What if we take into account all the features of garden crops and combine them during planting?
Compatibility of crops in the garden It will make it possible not only to rationally use the area for planting, but also to naturally protect plants from diseases and pests, to ensure proper growth and maturation for plants, thereby increasing the quality and quantity of the harvest.
If you place crops correctly on your site, then even in non-black soil conditions and a small plot it is possible to get a decent harvest from the garden. Crop compatibility in the garden is practiced by mixed and compacted crops. Cultures must be selected taking into account their mutual influence on each other.
Compatibility of crops in the garden
B azil gets along well with peas and kohlrabi, but does not like being next to cucumbers.
Eggplant I agree to be adjacent to green annual herbs, onions, beans, peppers, bush beans, spinach, thyme, amaranth. Fennel and peas are not the most suitable neighbors for eggplant.
B oby vegetable they feel great with peas, cabbage, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshades, parsley, rhubarb, radishes, cucumbers, beets, and garden savory. Onions, fennel, garlic and pumpkin are incompatible with beans.
Peas will be glad to be next door white cabbage, watercress, sweet corn, potatoes, carrots, herbs, spinach and lettuce. And on the contrary, he will not be happy onions, tomato, beans, garlic, zucchini.
Gordchitsa perfectly compatible with cabbage (white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cauliflower), peas, radish. Other plants in the garden will also suit mustard as neighbors.
D icon, for example, he doesn’t like his neighbors at all and is not fit to be a neighbor himself!
Dynya compatible with sweet corn, pumpkin, zucchini, radishes. But it doesn’t get along well with onions and potatoes.
And medicinal ssop Doesn't get along well with crops in the garden.
Go to the abacus grows well next to tomatoes, beets, onions, corn, melon, pumpkin, borage, nasturtium. Potatoes and white cabbage are bad neighbors for zucchini.
Cabbage cabbage feels great next to dill, celery, onions, garlic, lettuce, potatoes, cucumbers, radishes, beets, beans, spinach, mint, nasturtium, marigolds, and is not friendly with tomatoes, carrots, table beans and climbing beans and peas.
Broccoli compatible with potatoes, onions, carrots, parsley, head lettuce, beets, celery, sage, chard, marigolds. Broccoli does not get along well with tomatoes and beans.
To apusta kohlrabi will be happy to be next to onions, cucumbers, aromatic plants, radishes, lettuce, beets, peas, fennel, spinach. Bad proximity to tomatoes and beans.
To leafy cabbage gets along well with all plants in the garden, but especially with late white cabbage and potatoes.
To the apusta savoy does not get along well with all crops in the garden.
Cauliflower will feel comfortable with potatoes, cucumber, lettuce, celery, beans, beans, dill, hyssop, mint, nasturtium, sage. Neighborhood with tomatoes and strawberries will not work.
Potato gets along well with beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish, eggplant and onions, beans, calendula, corn, onions, radishes, radishes, garlic, but absolutely will not tolerate the proximity of tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkins, sorrel, fennel.
To the spring salad He will be happy to have radishes next to him, but other plants in the garden will not bother him.
Kruknek and Lagenaria love to grow up alone.
Corn will be favorable to peas, zucchini, late white cabbage, potatoes, cucumbers, pumpkin, beans, beans, and salad. Does not get along well with beets and fennel.
Leek a good neighbor for onions, carrots, celery.
Bulb onions compatible with Brussels sprouts, carrots, lettuce, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, chicory, savory, potatoes, strawberries. It will feel bad next to peas, radishes, beans, beans, cabbage, and radish.
Garden marjoram Compatible with carrots, but will not tolerate cucumbers nearby.
Carrot It is good to plant next to tomatoes, peas, broccoli, leeks, onions, cucumber, parsley, radishes, lettuce, beets, sage, spinach, radish, celery. Incompatible plants for carrots: dill, anise, fennel, cabbage, chard.
O Gurtsy It is very good to plant with peas or late white cabbage, sweet corn, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, beans, garlic, fennel, but they should not be planted next to potatoes and aromatic herbs. Tomatoes, sage, asparagus, zucchini, rhubarb, turnips, and leeks will also be bad neighbors.
P asternak goes well with salad. But his friendship with onions and garlic fails.
P Attison prefers loneliness, he does not like anyone's proximity.
Pepper compatible with eggplants, tomatoes, basil, carrots, lovage, marjoram, oregano, and onions. Will not be too happy with dill, fennel, cucumber, kohlrabi.
Leaf parsley will be happy to share a bed with basil, onions, cucumbers, asparagus, tomatoes, beans, and carrots. She won’t be too happy with head lettuce.
Reven goes well with peas, cabbage, radishes, lettuce, celery, beans and spinach. But he will not be happy with turnips, potatoes, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, beets, tomatoes and onions.
R edis goes well with cabbage, carrots, turnips, lettuce, tomatoes, beans, beans, fennel, spinach, zucchini, pumpkin. It will not suit its proximity to onions and chard beets.
Radish friends- beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, cucumber, pumpkin and tomato (plant without thickening), and enemies hyssop, onions, fennel.
Repa feels good next to onions (all types), beets, spinach, celery, lettuce, bush beans, dill. It is important to plant plants freely in the garden bed. Turnips will feel uncomfortable next to potatoes.
From alatu Such neighbors as: cabbage, carrots, beets, dill are suitable.
Beet gets along well with all cabbage, onions, carrots, cucumbers, lettuce, zucchini, garlic, and beans. A bad combination with potatoes and mustard.
Celery compatible with white cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, onion, tomato, beans, cucumber, spinach. Celery is not compatible with lettuce, potatoes.
With parge grows well next to basil, parsley and tomato. Onions of all kinds are bad neighbors for asparagus.
Tomatoes (tomatoes) will grow well with basil, cabbage, all onions, parsley, radishes, radishes, lettuce, asparagus, beans, garlic, beans, corn, carrots, spinach. Bad companions for tomatoes are peas, potatoes, kohlrabi cabbage, quinoa, cucumbers, turnips, dill, fennel.
Pumpkin goes well with zucchini, squash, and melon. The pumpkin will not be happy only with potatoes.
Beans ordinary grows wonderfully next to peas, cabbages, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshades, parsley, rhubarb, radishes, cucumbers, beets, and garden savory. Onions, pumpkin, garlic, and fennel do not get along well with common beans.
Bush asol compatible with cucumber, potato, cabbage, lettuce, turnip, radish, radish, rhubarb, celery, spinach, tomato. It will not be a very good combination with asparagus, string beans, zucchini, and fennel.
Horseradish goes well with potatoes.
Ts Ikoriy salad will accept onions, carrots, tomatoes, and fennel well.
Black garden compatible with watercress, onions, parsley, tomatoes, beans, dill, spinach. A cucumber is not suitable as a neighbor.
Garlic will readily make friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsley, lettuce, tomatoes, beets, celery, and beans. Garlic will not grow comfortably next to peas, cabbage, and beans.
Spinach compatible with the following crops: cabbage (all types), potatoes, carrots, turnips, garden strawberries, beets, beans, tomatoes. Zucchini, asparagus, and fennel do not go well with spinach.
For convenience, use the table of crop compatibility in the garden:
Vegetable crop compatibility table:
Culture compatibility table Another important aspect when selecting components for mixed crops on your site, these are:
The ability of some plants to repel harmful insects
Onion has a repellent effect on spider mites;
M akhorka for cabbage fly;
Garlic And wormwood cruciferous flea beetles will not like it;
tomatoes have a bad effect on the copperhead and moth;
The smell of celery repels cabbage fly.
You can also fight harmful insects with the help of wild plants
For this, gardeners and gardeners often use infusions.
For example:
The drug from chamomile inflorescences repels and even kills many garden pests.
To prepare the drug, chamomile inflorescences are collected and dried. After which they are ground into powder and mixed with an equal amount of road dust.
For spraying take 200 g. powder, stir in a small amount of water and add water to the norm of 10 liters. This drug is absolutely harmless, and it can be used to treat various crops even before harvesting.
Against aphids and spider mite, which are very harmful to cucumbers and cabbage, the plants are sprayed with infusion of potato tops.
In order to prepare such an infusion, we need 1.2 kg of crushed mass. Infuse for 2-3 hours in 10 liters of water and filter.
For the same purpose you can use:
ABOUTcreatures of stepchildren and tomato tops.
To do this, take green mass at the rate of 40 grams per 1 liter of water and, after chopping, boil over low heat for up to 30 minutes. One glass of the decoction obtained in this way is enough for 1 liter of water. Add 30 grams of soap or washing powder to the prepared decoction and spray the plants.
An infusion of onion peels, chamomile, tobacco, garlic, yarrow, horse sorrel roots and dandelion leaves also helps against aphids and mites.
We will tell you more about pests and crop compatibility in detail in future publications.
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