Families and groups of plants. When compiling tables, the predecessors and neighbors of plants are taken into account. Tables are a guide to action for summer residents.
Crop rotation is necessary for gardeners for sustainable farming. Its use ensures good yields of vegetables, increases soil fertility and provides protection of plants from pests and diseases in a natural way. In nature, everything is balanced, and this should be strived for in the country.
Ways to increase yield
Vegetable plants of the same species consume the same nutrients from the soil, release similar toxins, and have the same pests. When growing plants on permanent place the soil is severely depleted. There is a reproduction of pests, infection with diseases, as well as the growth of weeds. Soil fatigue sets in, its fertility decreases. It accumulates toxins secreted by plants. Crop rotation of crops is carried out according to the tables.
To increase the yield of vegetables, the following conditions must be met:
There is no standard and correct scheme crop rotation, since each summer resident grows different crops and in different quantities. Some plant a lot of potatoes, others grow greens and cucumbers. Therefore, an individual table of crop rotation of vegetables in the beds is compiled. To do this, a diagram of the site and a description of the plants grown by summer residents are entered in the summer magazine. It is desirable to have permanent ridges for better crop rotation.
A crop rotation table will make it easier to grow vegetables. The rotation of plants allows the soil to rest, as each crop consumes certain mineral fertilizers. The table takes into account all the properties of plants.
Classification of crops and interaction with the soil
Phosphate fertilizers, compost, ash must be applied to the soil. Crops such as carrots, beets, spinach, dill and celery are undemanding, but the soil must be mulched with compost and potash should be applied. The fourth group includes plants that saturate the earth with nitrogen, loosen it. Legumes: peas and beans. Potatoes and cabbage inhibit the growth of weeds. Cultivation is carried out according to the following principle:
Table 2. Crop rotation in relation to the soil
When mixed landing are taken into account different requirements according to illumination, wind protection, the need for mineral fertilizers and ripening dates. In this case, the interval between vegetable crops must be increased. Application of crop rotation tables vegetable crops will allow you to get high yields, and work in the country will make it enjoyable.
And, accordingly, they do not keep records when planning the usable land area. This often happens due to small area. But if you correctly organize the alternation of vegetables, this will help reduce the incidence of diseases and significantly increase crop yields.
Many people often wonder why yields are declining. There can be many reasons for this. It has been proven that certain plants require different proportions of nutrients, so the soil is depleted unevenly. Also, the roots of different crops penetrate to different depths, so plants deplete different layers of the soil. Some species are able to enrich the soil with nitrogen compounds, such as legumes.
Crop rotation is the change of vegetables in a particular area, if necessary, resting the land plot, leaving it fallow. You can alternate plants in a different sequence. The main thing is to observe agrotechnical validity in each case.
When organizing crop rotation, the main goals are:
- Increase soil fertility and achieve uniform consumption of useful elements.
- To increase the quantitative and qualitative indicators of productivity.
- To reduce the overgrowth of crops with weeds and their susceptibility to diseases and harmful insects.
- Decrease Negative influence, which is observed under the influence of wind and water.
Plant rotation is a kind of thoughtful scheme, which is expressed as a list of groups of plants and fallows in turn of their planting. Rotation in a crop rotation is the time during which crops and fallows alternate on a piece of land in a certain sequence. Crop rotations are formed from a set of links - parts that represent a combination of several plant species and fallow.
As a result of many years of observations and experiments, four rules for the alternation of cultures were established, which are subject to certain laws:
- Chemical. Plants unevenly take nutrients from the soil and assimilate them.
- Physical. The need of different vegetables for the density, water and air permeability of the soil is different.
- Biological. Vegetables react differently to soil weediness and have unequal immunity to diseases and. If you correctly alternate crops with different biological characteristics, this will lead to a decrease in the incidence and increase the biological activity of the soil.
- Economic. In order to use labor resources more rationally, it is necessary to cultivate vegetables with different terms planting and maturation.
Also, during crop rotations, it is allowed to use separate plots of land for re-planting or long-term cultivation of the same crop. But it should contribute to productivity.
Importance of crop rotation
Crop rotation is the main part of competent cultivation, which is of great importance in economic, organizational and agrotechnical understanding:
- Under the economic understanding is meant the observance of the set tasks for obtaining a crop in order not only to satisfy all on-farm needs, but also to realize the surplus. For these purposes, rational planning is carried out land plot, which increases the economic basis of crop rotations.
- Under the organizational understanding, it is customary to consider the competent and efficient use of production capacities and working personnel to increase crop yields while reducing labor and financial costs.
- Agrotechnical understanding lies in the beneficial use of usable area and increasing soil fertility.
The need for crop rotation is explained by specific motives, in the study of which measures are developed aimed at eliminating or reducing negative impacts on the quantity and quality of the crop.
Experienced gardeners actively use crop rotation to increase the productivity of small gardens. Competently alternating vegetable crops, they achieve annual maximum yields.
Possible crop rotation for the garden. Planting crops:
Mid-ripening and late-ripening cabbage
- Ideal after representatives: potato, tomato, carrot, cucumber and legumes
- Perhaps after representatives: beet, onion, squash
- Unacceptable after representatives: cabbage, and
Red and early white cabbage
- Ideal after representatives: cucumber, potato, onion, peas and greens
- Perhaps after the representatives: squash
- Unacceptable after representatives: cabbage, radish and radish
- Ideal after representatives: cucumber, potato, onion
- Perhaps after representatives: tomato, peas
- Unacceptable after representatives: beet
Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins
- Ideal after representatives: legumes, peas, cabbage, perennial herbs, potato, tomato
- Perhaps after representatives: beet, green
- Unacceptable after representatives: cucumber, squash, pumpkin
Tomatoes, bell peppers, eggplants, potatoes
- Ideal after representatives: early white cabbage and, legumes, greens
- Perhaps after representatives: cucumber, beet and radish
- Unacceptable after representatives: tomato, potato
Onion and garlic
- Ideal after representatives: cucumber, potato, legumes and green manure
- Perhaps after representatives: cabbage, beetroot, tomato
- Unacceptable after representatives: tomato, carrot, onion and
Legumes and peas
- Ideal after representatives: cabbage, potato, cucumber and strawberries
- Perhaps after representatives: tomato and green
- Unacceptable after representatives: perennial grasses, legumes and peas
Cauliflower and head salads
- Ideal after representatives: potato, tomato, cucumber
- Perhaps after representatives: green and legumes
- Unacceptable after representatives: cabbage, radish, radish
Greens and spices
- Ideal after representatives: cabbage and cucumber
- Perhaps after representatives: potato, tomato, legumes, onions
- Unacceptable after representatives: carrot and
When organizing crop rotations, you should not cultivate plants on the site that need a large amount of nutrients. They should be alternated with less whimsical vegetables:
- A lot of nutrients are needed, spinach, and.
- Less fertilizer is required for growing:, climbing legumes and.
- A very small amount of elements is consumed by bush beans, peas, and herbs.
With competent crop rotations, it is necessary to plant all groups of crops in turn, and then fully fertilize the soil. It is also necessary to be guided by the basic rule - the activity of plant development is directly dependent on the balance of trace elements after last year's crops. When planning ahead, you need to remember that vegetables that are part of the same family will not be planted in their place until a four-year period.
The longer the interval, the better the harvest.
With a small plot of land, many summer residents are forced to cultivate certain crops in a permanent place. Often this refers to potatoes, which occupy the lion's share of all beds.
Often, for harvest all year round farmers use greenhouses, in which it is not easy to organize the correct rotation of crops due to limited space. Today, two options for organizing a greenhouse crop rotation for 4 years are common among summer residents.
Option number 1
- The first year - What kind of crop to plant: cucumber, squash, cabbage. Fertilizers: rotted manure.
- Second year - What crop to plant: tomato, peppers, eggplant, radishes, onions, garlic, greens. Fertilizers: half the rate of organic top dressing.
- The third year - What kind of crop to plant: beets, radish, rutabaga, Fertilizers: ., rutabagas. Fertilizers: spring planting
It is possible to improve the greenhouse soil by alternating green manure crops: in the first year - rye, in the second - mustard and in the third - legumes (or phacelia). Each plant in its own way will improve the structure of the soil and improve it by enriching it with nutrients.
Using the rules of crop rotation, the summer resident gets the opportunity to competently plan his land allotment and receive a high-quality annual harvest. But in order not to get confused and do everything right, you should keep records of the landing sites of certain crops.
More information can be found in the video:
Crop rotation is the sequence of growing crops over the years in a certain area. Even a novice gardener knows that one crop cannot be grown in the same place for a long time. By correctly alternating vegetables in the garden, you can achieve excellent results: increase soil fertility, protect plants from pests and diseases, and improve agricultural technology. It is useful for any gardener to know what crop rotations are and how to create your own crop rotation plan.
- Each vegetable uses certain substances for nutrition, so in a few years the soil will become poorer, and the plants will begin to suffer from a lack of necessary elements.
- Pests that hibernate in the soil and infect a certain crop, having come to the surface in the spring, will immediately find plants suitable for them and quickly destroy the plantings. The same applies to diseases.
- The root system of each plant releases certain substances into the soil. After a few years, these compounds will accumulate in the soil and begin to interfere with the development of this species.
- in one year to restore the microflora and natural fertility of the soil;
- remove the problem of incompatibility of cultures;
- increase the water permeability and hygroscopicity of the soil;
- rational distribution of organic fertilizers;
- rationally use the area during one season, getting several harvests of different crops from the garden;
- clean the soil from perennial and annual weeds.
- make a list of crops that will be grown on the site;
- calculate the number of beds.
- sheet, including green onion and white cabbage;
- fruit - nightshade, pumpkin and other vegetables grown for the sake of fruits;
- root vegetables, including potatoes and radishes;
- legumes.
- bed 1 - fruit;
- bed 2 - root crops;
- bed 3 - legumes;
- bed 4 - leafy.
- highly demanding - cabbage, pumpkin, sunflower;
- moderately demanding - solanaceous;
- undemanding - celery;
- undemanding - legumes.
- Cruciferous - cabbage, horseradish, radish, watercress, turnip, mustard leaf;
- Celery - carrots, parsnips, celery, parsley, dill;
- Compositae - salads (head and lettuce), artichokes, sunflower;
- Marevye - spinach, beets;
- Pumpkin - cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini, watermelons, melons;
- Onions - onions, garlic;
- Nightshade - tomatoes, physalis, eggplant, peppers, potatoes;
- Legumes - peas, beans, beans, soybeans;
- Bluegrass - corn.
- Pumpkin - legumes - cabbage - haze.
- Nightshade - legumes - cabbage - haze.
- Peas can be planted next to corn, carrots, cucumbers or strawberries. Peas do not tolerate the proximity of other legumes and cabbage.
- Good neighbors for eggplants are beans, garlic, spicy greens. Eggplant tolerates the neighborhood of strawberries, cucumbers and parsley quite well.
- Zucchini can be planted on the same bed with corn and any legumes. Zucchini is quite tolerant of eggplant, strawberries, sunflowers, garlic and carrots, but potatoes, tomatoes and radishes are not tolerated.
- Early cabbage can be combined with lettuce, green beans and carrots. Culture does not like the neighborhood of peas, onions, parsley and garlic.
- Potatoes go well with beans and spinach. Permissible crops are cabbage, corn, onions, carrots, garlic. Invalid - peas, cucumbers, beets, pumpkins and tomatoes.
- Corn is a good neighbor for most crops, except for beets.
- Onions grow well next to carrots, tomatoes, beets and even garlic, but on the same bed with cabbage, dill or beans it will not feel good.
- Leek "loves" strawberries and tomatoes, "does not like" peas and onions.
- Perennial onions can be planted on beds with strawberries, carrots, cucumbers. It is impossible - next to legumes and garlic.
- Carrots - cultivation is allowed along with tomatoes, garlic, spinach and cabbage. You can not plant carrots next to beets, dill and beans.
- Cucumbers feel good next to cabbage, beets, beans, dill. Suitable neighbors for cucumbers are eggplant, strawberries, onions, carrots, garlic and spinach. Neighborhood with potatoes, tomatoes and radishes is unacceptable.
- 1. The first year - cabbage + cucumbers.
- 2. The second year - tomatoes.
- 3. The third year - carrots + onions.
- 4. Fourth year - potatoes.
Show all
The need to change cultures
The soil in which the same type of plant is grown every year becomes tired and yields decline. Crop rotation is designed to prevent soil fatigue. If you grow crops for several years in a row in the same place, the following negative consequences arise:
Proper crop rotation allows you to:
Crop rotation in organic farming
In organic farming, crop rotation is extremely important, since this system does not use chemical methods protection and mineral fertilizers. A high yield is achieved not through the use of "chemistry", but with the help of competent and well-organized agricultural technology.
To comply with crop rotation, the site is divided into three zones. The first is occupied by cultures demanding soil fertility, which require a lot of nutrients: cabbage, pumpkin, celery. Legumes are planted in the second zone, which in organic farming should occupy large areas. These are peas, grain and asparagus beans, beans, peanuts. The third zone is reserved for root crops.
In each zone, the rotation of crops is in the following order: demanding crop - legumes - root crops. If potatoes need to be included in the turnover, the alternation will be as follows: potatoes - a demanding crop - legumes - root crops. Strawberries can also be introduced into circulation. Then the garden will have to be divided into 5 zones, and the area occupied by strawberries will be planted with potatoes in the fifth year.
Features of monocultures
There are plots where I grow the same crop year after year. Most often these are potato or cabbage allotments.
The field should be divided into 3 parts and annually sow each part in turn with green manure - herbs that cleanse the land of soil pests and increase fertility. A good green manure for potatoes is winter rye. It is sown in August-September, and in the spring or in the middle of the next year they are embedded in the soil. Part of the field, resting this year, can be sown with marigolds, calendula, nasturtium. These plants heal the soil, inhibit weeds, decorate the site. In autumn, after flowering, they are buried to a depth of 15-20 cm.
If there are areas heavily overgrown with perennial weeds on the site, you can plant a pumpkin in them. This aggressive vegetable crop occupies a large area and with its large leaves oppresses weeds, preventing them from breaking through to the light.
Planting vegetables - after which predecessors can you wait good harvest?
Drawing up a crop rotation
The gardener can make a crop rotation based on his own needs. This is an easy task, you just have to try.
To draw up a crop rotation you will need:
To simplify the work, it is worth creating a separate folder. A garden plan with lined beds is put into it. A tracing paper is applied to the plan and the types of vegetable crops are recorded on it. In this way, predecessors can be easily controlled and rotation can be planned.
The second way is to make a crop rotation table in the garden in the Word program, putting down the years in the columns. The number of lines should correspond to the number of beds on the site.
To compile the simplest crop rotation, you can focus on the belonging of vegetables to botanical families. For home gardening, this is enough, but there are other, more complex options.
Crop rotation by crop groups
Vegetable crops are divided into 4 groups:
Rotation of cultures suburban area will be as follows:
The next year, the beds are shifted one counterclockwise, that is, fruit beds go to the fourth, leafy - to the third, and so on. It turns out that each culture returns to its old place only after 4 years.
Alternation according to the requirements for soil fertility
In this case, vegetables are divided into groups depending on their organic needs:
In such a crop rotation, humus or compost is applied only to beds with cabbage, pumpkin and sunflowers. The following year, tomatoes and other nightshades are planted at this place. These crops love well-rotted organics. In the third year, crops are planted that do not tolerate organics. It's primarily carrots. In the fourth year, place is given to legumes - they do not need organic matter at all, they themselves enrich the soil with nitrogen. In the fifth year, organic matter is introduced into the garden, cabbage or pumpkin crops are planted, and the cycle repeats.
Crop Requirements for Fertilizers
Crop rotation by families
This is the simplest crop rotation option. The gardener only needs to know which family each vegetable belongs to.
Belonging of garden plants to botanical families:
Plants are returned to their original place no earlier than after 3 years.
Cultures are planted in the following sequence: nightshade - legumes - cabbage - umbrella.
Two more schemes will do:
In these crop rotations, onions are planted before winter after nightshade.
Crop rotation examples
Alternation according to the degree of soil depletion
Each crop extracts the trace elements it needs from the soil, and in different proportions.
Table: the needs of vegetable plants in trace elements:
Cabbage and root crops strongly deplete the soil. Legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen. If, after harvesting the grain, the stem and leaves of peas, beans and other legumes are planted in the soil, the earth will be saturated not only with nitrogen, but also with many microelements. Onions, tomatoes, zucchini, peppers and eggplants deplete the soil to an average degree. Spinach, lettuce, cucumbers almost do not deplete the soil.
Under the most demanding culture, the full rate of organic matter is added. The remaining vegetables are fertilized taking into account the aftereffect of the main fertilizer. In the first year, plants remove from the soil 30% of the nitrogen and phosphorus introduced with manure and half of the potassium. The rest of the nutrients remain in the soil, so it is impractical to apply manure annually.
Crop rotation may look like this: demanding on fertility - medium demanding on fertility - undemanding on fertility - enriching the soil.
Predecessor alternation
This is the most difficult type of crop rotation. When compiling it, it is assumed that each plant has good and bad predecessors. If plants are planted after a good predecessor, the yield will increase, after a bad one, it will drop sharply. The table will help to make a crop rotation.
Table: choice of predecessors:
|
Predecessor |
Cabbage |
Carrot |
Cucumber |
Tomato |
Beet |
Potato |
|
|
Radishes, cucumber, peas, carrots, annual herbs |
Radish, onion, cucumber |
Onions, cabbage, potatoes |
Cabbage, radish, cucumber |
Carrots, onions, beets |
Onion, cucumber, radish |
cucumber, onion |
|
|
Satisfactory |
Onions, garlic, potatoes |
Peas, garlic, carrots, potatoes |
Radishes, beets, carrots, peas, tomato |
Beets, onions, zucchini, potatoes, peas |
Cucumber, garlic, radish |
Peas, garlic, potatoes |
|
|
Unsuitable |
Cabbage, beets, tomato |
Tomato, zucchini, beets, cabbage |
Cucumber, zucchini |
Carrot, tomato |
Tomato, zucchini, beets, potatoes, peas, cabbage |
Cabbage, tomato, beets, carrots, zucchini |
cabbage, tomato |
Potatoes in crop rotation
In small areas, it is irrational to include such an important crop as potatoes in the crop rotation. Potatoes are grown in large areas as a monoculture. So that the soil is not depleted, a large amount of rotted organic matter is annually introduced into the field and mineral fertilizers. Once every few years, the field is sown with green manure to improve the soil from bacteria and phytopathogenic fungi.
Corn should also be removed from the crop rotation. Maize is undemanding to predecessors and is itself a good predecessor for most crops. However, under corn, the land is quickly depleted and an annual application is required. a large number organics.
Combination of cultures
Many crops have a short growing season. In order to rationally use the area, it is necessary to apply repeated crops, placing several crops on one bed during the season. You need to know which cultures tolerate the neighborhood and which do not.
Rules for combining plants:
An example of a crop rotation with a combination of crops:
So, crop rotation of vegetable crops is a necessary agricultural technique that allows you to protect plants from pests and diseases, and increase productivity. When compiling a crop rotation, various factors can be taken into account: belonging to a botanical family, the degree of need for organic matter, the removal of trace elements from the soil. There are ready-made crop rotation schemes, but in a small area it is better to draw up a rotation plan yourself based on the needs of your family.
Crop rotation of vegetable crops is a necessary alternation of grown plants in your beds. Crop rotation in the garden should ideally be annual and continuous. This means that nothing should grow in the same place for two or more years in a row! This, of course, is ideal, and not every summer resident is able to realize such a utopian picture. However, "Gardener and Gardener" will try to help you in this difficult matter.
We have prepared for you useful diagrams and tables, which you, as usual, can download from the link at the end of the article. For now, let's get to the theory.
Crop rotation of vegetable crops: a table for busy gardeners
In general, a crop rotation device is not a fast occupation and requires a certain amount of time. This is due to the fact that when alternating crops, quite a lot of factors must be taken into account: the need for a plant in nutrition, belonging to a biological family, contamination of the soil by pests, etc. For those who do not have enough time for long calculations and construction of schemes, we offer a quick and easy solution.
"Crop rotation table: successors and predecessors of vegetables when planting" will help you navigate the choice of a plant for a particular bed, without delving into the details. The only thing to remember when using it is that the culture can return to its original place after at least 3 to 4 years.
Crop rotation table: successors and predecessors of vegetables when planting
As you can see from this crop rotation summary table, there are the best vegetable crop predecessors, acceptable and bad:
Best tomato precursors- color and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, greens, carrots and green manure. It is permissible to plant tomatoes after onions, garlic, herbs, beets, cabbages of late and medium varieties. After other crops, planting tomatoes in the garden is no longer worth it.
wonderful cabbage precursors- cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin and legumes. And here comes the division. For late and medium varieties, early potatoes and carrots are good, and for early and cauliflower it is better to sow after green manure and onions with garlic.
Good predecessors of onions and garlic(which you do not grow for greens) - cauliflower and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, early potatoes, peas, beans, beans and green manure.
Best predecessors of cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin etc. - onions, garlic, legumes, corn, early and cauliflower.
Good pea precursors- any cabbage, early potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins and squash.
Excellent carrot precursors- cabbage, potatoes, herbs and spices, zucchini and green manure.
Best precursors of pepper and eggplant- cucumbers, onions, carrots, green manure, etc.
Good beet predecessors- spices and herbs, potatoes, cucumbers, etc.
wonderful potato predecessors- zucchini, garlic, legumes, green manure, etc.
It seems that you managed to figure out how the table works without much difficulty. So, the “hurry-ups” leave us, and we move on.
Crop rotation of vegetables in the beds: a necessity or a whim
For those summer residents who are not limited in time, the "Gardener and Gardener" offers to "dig deeper." To begin with, let's look at the objective reasons that speak of the undoubted practical benefits and the need for crop rotation in the country.
Causes of soil fatigue:
1. Accumulation of pests and pathogens.
If you plant for a long time in the same place, for example, potatoes, then the number of wireworms, Colorado potato beetles and late blight pathogens will inevitably increase in this area. The same is true for other cultures. Growing all the time on the same beds the same vegetables, you risk getting on the same dominance onion flies, on another cabbage keel, on the third carrot fleas, etc. What can we say about root and leaf nematodes, rot and other "minor" troubles.
2. Accumulation of toxins.
Another reason that speaks of the need for vegetable crop rotation is the inevitable toxic root secretions - colins. Many vegetables are very sensitive to their own toxins. If you continue to plant them in one place, then the crops will get worse and worse every year, even despite the absence of pests and diseases. So, for example, spinach and beets are most susceptible to their root secretions. Parsley, radish, radish, celery, carrots and pumpkin crops react a little easier to them. Corn, leeks and legumes are the least affected by colin. A lot of toxins remain in tomato, cucumber, carrot and cabbage beds.
3. Nutritional needs.
The supply of nutrients on the site is not unlimited. Each plant has its own nutrient requirements. Some cultures are less demanding, while others are more. Therefore, it is very important to know “who is who” in order to track the state of a particular garden. So if related plants are planted in the same place, then in a few years they will “suck out” everything necessary for growth from it, depleting the supply of some elements. As a result, productivity will drop.
All these factors together give the so-called soil fatigue. You can and should fight this. The most effective remedy is this very crop rotation of vegetables in your country house.
Crop rotation in the garden: the fight against soil depletion
In order for the horrors described above not to become a reality in your favorite dacha or plot, it is enough to remember and adhere to three simple rules crop rotation.
1. botany rule.
You should never plant not just the same plant one after another, but even related crops belonging to the same species! This is the first, most important and important.
Judge for yourself:
- Diseases and pests are most often the same. Therefore, the first reason will not be eliminated.
They also have similar toxins. Colins of one plant are processed only by cultures of another botanical species. So the second reason will remain in place.
- Nutrition and the need for trace elements in crops of the same family are also almost identical. It turns out that the third reason is not going anywhere.
Conclusion: crop rotation of vegetables within the same botanical family is useless!
2. Time rule.
The longer the culture does not return, the better!
The minimum period after which you can return the plant to its original place is 3 years. For carrots, parsley, beets, cucumbers, it is better to increase it to 4-5 years. Cabbage, when the keel appears, can be returned only after 6-7 years. If there is an opportunity (there is enough space, many crops are grown), then feel free to increase these numbers, it will only get better.
Otherwise, the same three causes of soil fatigue will not be eliminated again.
3. fertility rule.
When determining the rotation order of crops in a crop rotation, remember about nutrition and about plants that help enrich the soil with the right elements.
All crops use nutrients to grow, some more, some less. Plants that are very demanding on nutrition should not be planted one after another.
Some cultures improve the fertile layer by the very fact of their growth in this place. These include almost all legumes. They not only loosen the soil, but also fill it with mineral elements. No wonder many vegetables love them as predecessors. By the way, plants of other species have similar qualities, in which the root system is deep, powerful and developed.
Others contain the necessary substances in their roots and leaves. These plants need to be known and, if possible, laid in compost. Although this is a separate topic, we will still give a few examples.
In accordance with this rule, we advise you, when drawing up the order of alternation of crops in a crop rotation, pay attention not only to the botanical appearance and timing, but also to the exactingness of nutrition and the improvement of fertility. Thus:
- after each plant that is demanding on nutrition, next year it is worth planting legumes or seriously fertilizing the garden,
- after a less demanding vegetable, you can plant a more demanding one, moderately fertilizing the soil.
To make it easier to navigate when alternating crops in a crop rotation, "Gardener and Gardener" has prepared a special memo for you.
Memo: "What to consider when alternating vegetable crops in a crop rotation"
The scheme of crop rotation of vegetables in the country
Giving some options for crop rotation schemes is a waste of time. The summer cottage of each gardener is unique, which means that some standard crop rotation plans can suit few people. And it's not even about the size of the plot or the number of beds. It's just that the vegetable crops that are cultivated are different for everyone. Someone is planting a lot of cabbage different types, and someone literally 5-6 plants. Someone plants potatoes for 5 acres, while someone needs 5 square meters. meters. Someone plants many crops in a greenhouse, while someone has a greenhouse only for tomatoes and cucumbers. Therefore, it is more expedient for each summer resident to independently plan crop rotation and draw up individual schemes for himself.
The basic principles that should be followed are outlined above. Now let's move away from the ideal and plunge into reality. Further "Gardener and Gardener" offers you a list practical advice, according to the crop rotation device.
Crop rotation at their summer cottage: practical advice
1. Human memory is not unlimited. To remember what kind of vegetable sat on this bed five years ago is an impossible task for most summer residents. Therefore, the first advice is not to be lazy and draw up a plan of your site with all the beds in a notebook. On this plan every year you will mark the planted crops. Those who have a lot of free time can immediately mark plants that are likely to be planted a year, two or three years in advance. The rest, in order to compile a complete crop rotation map, will take 5-6 years (according to the average time for the return of a crop).
2. In the process of sowing, decide and write down in your notebook how much space which crop occupies for you (one third of the beds, a quarter, half, a whole, etc.). This is necessary so that in the next years it will be possible to “fold” suitable plantings, like pieces of a mosaic. After all, it is not necessary to sow the entire garden with any one crop. If you can plant cabbage and greens after onions, do so - half a bed of one, half a bed of the second. Just do not forget to make sure that the neighboring plants are compatible.
3. If you can’t change the place of a culture (well, it happens), don’t despair. Just add a "neighbor" from another family to it on the bed (do not forget to check the compatibility table). So self-poisoning plants (beets, spinach, carrots, etc.), which we talked about in the second reason (Accumulation of toxins), can grow in one place quite calmly and without loss in yield up to 3 years. After all, neighbors of a different species are well processed and absorb their destructive toxins. A mixed fit works best when it is truly mixed. That is, not half a bed of beets and half a bed of carrots, but a row of one, a row of another. Or better yet, fill the aisles with the same beans.
Here, perhaps, is all the information that you need to organize a correct and efficient crop rotation in the country. The table will help you quickly determine the crop to be sown. Reminder - plan everything in advance. Practical advice - to solve the problems that arise in the process. Have a good harvest!
Material taken from the site:
Carrots grow well after cabbage, and beets grow well after parsley and parsnips. Knowing such wisdom, you can get excellent harvest vegetables.
It's time to plan what and where to plant on the site. Remember that the correct alternation (fruit rotation) of vegetable crops not only increases productivity, but also protects plants from diseases and pests.
Each vegetable has its own mineral
Various vegetables consume minerals during growth, depleting the soil. But each plant has its own\"menu \". Potatoes and cabbage lean on potassium and nitrogen. But cabbage also loves phosphorus, just like tomatoes and radish... Therefore, if you plant the same crop several times in a row, even if you apply fertilizer, the soil is still one-sidedly depleted.
Any crop planted in a garden bed that prefers the same minerals as its predecessor will feel uncomfortable. For example, tomatoes planted for the second season in a row on the same bed or planted immediately after cabbage will lack phosphorus. In addition, each plant releases substances into the soil that inhibit the growth of the same crop next year, which also leads to a decrease in yield.
Another danger lies in the accumulation in the soil of pathogenic bacteria and pest larvae, "specializing" on a particular plant. For example, a tomato or pepper is not recommended to be planted after potatoes. And vice versa. Why? All of them belong to the nightshade family and can get late blight. If phytophthora spores enter the soil, then they are viable for several more years. And, repeating the sowing of crops susceptible to phytophthora at this place, we thereby only "feed" the disease.
Yes, and the Colorado potato beetle, waking up after hibernation, in the absence of potatoes, will willingly switch to tomatoes and even peppers.
They grow poorly one after another in any combination: cabbage, radish, turnip, radish. All of them can get kyla. But with the correct sequence of planting, it is much easier to resist diseases and pests.
Rotating vegetables also helps control weeds. Plants with well-developed, fast-growing foliage (cabbage, potatoes, beans, squash, and others) have the ability to suppress weeds. Conversely, crops that slowly develop a small rosette of leaves (carrots, beets) are very vulnerable to weeds. So these two groups of plants are good to alternate with each other.
A special place in the garden should be reserved for perennial vegetable plants (rhubarb, asparagus, sorrel). Usually they are placed at the end of the site or along its perimeter, so that they do not obscure the rest of the plants.
Attention
Related cultures with similar needs:
peas, beans, beans, rank, chickpeas (bean family);
potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers (nightshade family);
radish, turnip, rutabaga, radish, cabbage, watercress, horseradish, mustard, rapeseed (cruciferous family);
carrots, dill, celery, parsley, parsnips, cumin, coriander, anise (umbrella family);
beets, chard, spinach (family haze);
cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, squash, zucchini (pumpkin family);
sorrel, rhubarb (buckwheat family);
basil, peppermint, lemon balm, marjoram, thyme (laminaceae family);
leaf lettuce, head lettuce, estragon (Asteraceae family);
onion, garlic (lily family).
By the way
Onions and carrots are "friends". Planted side by side, they are successfully protected from pests. Each of them has its own pest - the fly, respectively, carrot and onion. But the onion fly does not tolerate the smell of carrots, and the carrot fly disappears if onions grow nearby.
It is better not to plant tomatoes and cucumbers nearby. For successful growth, tomatoes need dry hot air, rare but plentiful watering. Excessive soil moisture provokes late blight in tomatoes. Cucumbers prefer warm dampness. These vegetables have a completely different approach to fertilizers. Unlike the cucumber, the tomato does not tolerate manure. Therefore, even in open field you should not arrange beds with cucumbers next to the beds of tomatoes, and there’s no need to talk about greenhouses. But it is possible to alternate them with each other.
Onions, potatoes, carrots can be grown in one place long time if the soil is not infected with pathogens.
adviсe
The seven rules of crop rotation:
1 It is not recommended to plant crops that require early planting after crops that have been harvested late. For example, carrots, parsley, cabbage, and some other crops are in the ground until hard frosts. Naturally, during the winter, the frozen soil will not have time to recover.
2 Make sure not to plant crops of the same species and family one after another in the same place.
3 It is best to return plants from groups that are unfavorable to each other to their former \"place of residence\" in 3-4 years. main culture
can be returned to the previous bed earlier if cereals (wheat, rye, oats) or green manure are sown after it.
4 It is useful to alternate cultures with deep and shallow roots, then the former can get their food from the deeper horizons of the soil.
5 Rotate plants according to their ability to resist weeds.
6 It is advisable to divide the plot into two halves so that on one half it is possible to grow vegetables that grow well after manure is applied, and on the other - crops that do not tolerate manure. With this division, you will ensure that a wide variety of crops can be grown annually.
7 It is necessary to include legumes in the crop rotation, as they enrich the soil with nitrogen. They are good predecessors for almost any culture.
