Most of the crops grown by gardeners came to us once from the forest, where their roots in the near-trunk circle were always securely covered with warm and soft pillow from fallen leaves and pine needles. Forgetting about this, we took up the practice of digging the earth everywhere in the fall, removing all weeds from it, leveling the surface with a rake. And then in this naked form we leave her until next year.
The study by scientists of the practice of such an attitude towards the earth has shown that in the conditions of the vicissitudes of our climate, bacteria and other living beings freeze out so much that their usual mass inherent in this or that soil is restored only by the end of June. It turns out that in the most crucial period for growth and development, plants lack nutrition: there is little living matter in the soil, which means there is little humus - the basis of fertility and rich harvests.
It follows from the foregoing that soil mulching in our climatic conditions should be of a total nature, that is, it should be carried out not only after watering or loosening the soil, not only for garden crops and not only during their cultivation, as recommended in the literature, but always everywhere, especially before winter. Under such conditions, the topmost, most fertile layer will always be in a favorable environment, and the soil will not lose, but, on the contrary, will acquire an even richer content, saturated with everything necessary.
About the features and methods of mulching plants on vegetable beds There are many recommendations in the literature and press. Here we will focus mainly on the mulching of fruit and berry crops and flower beds, including their winter and long-term mulching.
As my personal experience and the experience of other gardeners testify, in the pre-winter period, any post-harvest residues, chopped stalked mass, weeds and already fallen leaves, as well as sawdust, shavings and bark, can be very successfully used for mulching.
At the same time, in order to speed up the decomposition of the mulch cover, it is best to mix it, adding at the same time a composting accelerator, which is a complex mixture of bacterial fertilizers.
Mulch is usually added to tree trunk circles free-standing fruit trees, and for young plants a layer of 5-6 cm, and for old fruit-bearing plants - a layer of 8-10 cm. Around trunks with a diameter of about 80-100 cm, mulch is usually applied in a very thin layer to avoid damage to the bark. As has been established, such pre-winter mulching promotes soil porosity, aeration and moisture permeability, and this influence often extends to a depth of 15-20 cm of the surface layer.
During a long and frost-free autumn, it is even possible to detect quite active activity of earthworms under the mulch. All this, taken together, contributes to the good survival of newly planted trees and the successful overwintering of young fruit-bearing trees, and also facilitates the difficult care of them in the spring.
Low-standard apple trees with a small crown are especially fond of mulching. The fine sucking roots of such trees grow into the mulch cover and are visible if the mulch is carefully removed. Mulching berry bushes gives good results, and a mixture of foliage and chopped grass and stems is best suited here. At the same time, since pathogens of these crops can remain on the leaves, it is very advisable to use foliage and stems of other crops for mulching some crops.
All berry bushes successfully mulched with sawdust, shavings and bark, but before that they must all be in a rotted or semi-rotted state. On strawberries good results provides a mulch cover of compost and pine sawdust mixed with pine needles. At the time of harvesting, it protects the berries from contamination, giving them a special taste and aroma.
When mulching flower beds, and especially roses, instead of the scarce and expensive bark manure recommended in the literature, it is quite acceptable to use bark compost, as a result of which the soil structure improves, its moisture becomes balanced and maintenance costs are reduced. The use of chopped branches and plant stems mixed with crushed wood waste has also been fully justified. Wherein best result turned out to be when using the mentioned mulching materials with a thickness of 6-7 cm.
As established, under the influence of the external environment (rain, irrigation, etc.), very small particles of mulch, although they sink deep into, but general structure The mulch cover is preserved and actively interacts with the soil, and microbes are activated, and both the mulch cover and the soil are included in the restructuring of the environment. The result of this is the decomposition of the mulch and the enrichment of the soil with humus. At the same time, it retains moisture well, suppresses the appearance of weeds, and eliminates the possibility of the formation of a soil crust that prevents the growth of the root system of trees and shrubs. The loose mulch cover warms up faster, and all plants begin to vegetate earlier and faster.
There are many examples of the beneficial effects of mulch on fruit trees and shrubs. I can judge this by personal experience. As a result of careful late-summer mulching, one of the three annual apple trees bloomed a year earlier than the others and also bore its first fruits earlier. And one of the gooseberry bushes, no different from the others, but only well mulched, produced large and tasty berries almost two years earlier. Even the currants, which seemed to have already died from the weight of the years, after good pruning and mulching with watering with grass slurry in the spring of the next year, turned green and produced full-fledged shoots, and then berries.
In conclusion, I will give several requirements for mulching that are absent in the literature and appeared only on the basis of personal experience.
Firstly Before mulching the soil, you must make sure that it is well warmed up and thoroughly loosened to a depth of about 10 cm.
Secondly, simultaneously with loosening, the most malicious rhizomatous weeds must be removed from the soil: wheatgrass, cowgrass, bindweed, etc.
Third, In order for microorganisms to begin their activity in a timely manner, mulch should be applied either in late summer or early autumn, when the earth is still alive.
Fourthly, When adding mulch, one should always strive for diversity in its species composition and careful mixing of its various components with each other, due to which the species composition of microorganisms involved in the formation of humus from mulch and soil will be more diverse and rich.
Fifthly, if the layer of mulch in the spring turns out to be too thick and dense, leading to negative consequences for the soil, then such mulch should be removed, then loosened again, warmed up the soil and again laid either new mulch or the same, but thinner layer, followed by building it up during the summer season.
A. Veselov, gardener
Common parsnip, or field parsnip, or field parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) in the wild is widespread in regions with a temperate climate (central Russia, the North Caucasus, Crimea, the Urals, Altai, etc.), but is still rarely found in garden plots. True, today the popularity of parsnips is growing quite actively. In animal husbandry and beekeeping it is used as a fodder plant and honey plant, and in cooking as a tasty and healthy vegetable.
A universal favorite among decorative deciduous perennials, the hosta captivates not only with the beauty of its leaves. It is durable and relatively undemanding, in right place grows for many years, but it can hardly be called fast-growing. Hosta propagates easily, although to obtain spectacular, highly decorative bushes you will have to be patient. To independently increase your hosta collection, first of all, you need to remember the characteristics of this culture.
Dill spreads well by self-sowing, so many summer residents do not consider it necessary to sow this crop every year on their site. But everyone understands that dill and dill are different. And the greens of carefully grown dill in the garden in their own way taste qualities and flavor tends to be superior to dill, which grows on its own. In this article we will tell you how to have green dill in your garden beds in sufficient quantities from early spring to late autumn.
Stir fry with beef, soy noodles, vegetables and Iceberg lettuce - a recipe for a quick dinner or lunch for busy man. It takes no more than 15 minutes to prepare, and you can feed it to a couple of hungry mouths that can’t bear to wait for a fancy lunch. Stir-fry is a method of quickly frying vegetables and meat that came to us from the east. Do not be upset if the wok is not among yours kitchen utensils. Regular frying pan with a thick bottom non-stick coating will do too.
Among plants that boast variegated foliage, alpinia claims to be not only the rarest, but also the most original crop. It simultaneously reminds of bamboos and calathea arrowroots, and sometimes even of vriesea. True, it resembles the latter only in its inflorescences. Luxurious leaves, most often covered with variegated contrasting stripes, look so modern that it is impossible not to admire the beauty of their impeccable patterns and shine.
Vegetarian cabbage rolls made from savoy cabbage with mushrooms - steamed cabbage rolls for dietary, vegetarian and lenten menus. Cabbage rolls are unusually tasty, very appetizing, and, if applicable to food, beautiful, unlike their counterparts from white cabbage, stewed in a Dutch oven or fried in a frying pan. Savoy cabbage is tastier than white cabbage, the head is loose, it is easier to separate it into individual leaves. The color of the leaves ranges from soft green to emerald.
IN winter time every summer resident is looking forward to spring and is happy to open the season with the first crops of flower and vegetable crops for seedlings. But, unfortunately, the space on the windowsill is limited, and it is not always possible to place the required number of seedlings in cups in the apartment. In addition, some of the crops may simply not grow, some will die... And for us, summer residents, no matter how much we plant, it’s not enough! Therefore, almost every gardener buys at least some seedlings.
Growing annuals in the garden has at least two advantages over growing perennial flowers. Firstly, most popular annual plants bloom profusely throughout the growing season. Secondly, many annuals sow freely and appear in the garden year after year with minimal participation from the grower. Which annuals can be planted only once, and then, following simple techniques, can be seen in the garden every season?
You can make jellied meat and meat salad with onions from pork knuckle. The shank, especially the hind shank, is a very tasty and affordable part of the pork carcass that can feed a small company. A 2-kilogram shank will yield a bowl of meat salad and a large plate of jellied meat. There will still be some meat broth left over, which I advise you to use to cook cabbage soup or borscht. For this dish, we take a hind shank weighing from 1.7 to 2 kilograms; I advise you to ask the butcher for the meatiest one.
Eggplants require sunny but short days, medium-warm temperatures without sweltering heat, sufficient moisture, but without flooding the root system. Provide such conditions in open ground most regions of Russia is quite difficult. Therefore, previously eggplants were grown only in protected soil conditions. With the development of breeding, it became possible to grow eggplants in open ground not only in the southern regions, but also in middle lane.
Among predator plants, the sundew rightly claims to be the brightest and most expressive beauty. This plant attracts, first of all, its unusual textures and play of colors. But the feeding mechanism of this swamp and quite hardy miracle is so exotic that it is very easy to forget about sundews as plants, primarily ornamental ones. Sundews are quite demanding when it comes to humidity, but they are not that difficult to grow in ordinary living spaces.
Chocolate cake with custard made from simple and affordable ingredients turns out to be so delicious that rarely anyone limits themselves to one piece. The sponge cakes are moist and feel like they are made from real dark chocolate, even though the recipe only calls for cocoa powder. The creamy custard is delicate and light and goes well with chocolate sponge cake. All this splendor of tastes complements coconut flakes, the ingredient is simple, but in this recipe, it’s like a cherry on the cake.
Although the calendar spring begins in March, it is very difficult to call this month spring. But May is already a real long-awaited spring, filled with aromas and the multicolor of awakened nature. Fresh young leaves on trees and bushes attract the eye, yearning for greenery during the long months of winter. In May, the parade of primroses continues in the garden, delighting with colorful foliage and flowering ornamental shrubs, perennials, conifers are renewed.
In the middle zone, the formation of grapes suggests the possibility of shelter for the winter period, which means that the focus should be on keeping the head of the bush at soil level. Even further north on big harvest you can’t count, but for such areas there are their own pruning principles. The article discusses the sleeve-fan scheme for forming a grape bush, often used in the middle zone, and the cordon scheme, which has shown itself well in regions with a more severe climate.
Beef with eggplants with vegetable sauce in the oven is a simple, very tasty and not very high-calorie dish, which is quite relevant nowadays. The sauce is made from vegetables only, no flour, sugar, milk or cream. The meat is without fat, and yet it turns out juicy and tender. Can be replaced with chicken fillet or veal. The eggplants do not need to be fried first, just add a little salt to make them soft. TO ready meal I recommend making a light yogurt sauce.
Today we will talk about different types mulch. How to mulch with grass, straw, fallen leaves? How to make mulch with your own hands? What is the best for mulching strawberries?
Mulch, in our understanding, is primarily to save the soil from drying out. This is true, and three times true for the hot steppes. I used to write this: in the south it is impossible to live without mulch, without it the soil dries out! In fact, it is impossible without it both in the rainiest Non-Black Earth region and in cold Siberia.
It is this that protects the soil from erosion by rainfall. It is the organic matter of mulch that is the main source of carbon dioxide for photosynthesis and food for soil animals. It is mulch that protects the soil from temperature fluctuations. During the day it reflects the excess heat of the sun, and at night it stores the heat of the root layer. Only under the mulch does dew settle and come into use, prolonging the effect of rain.
But first, I’ll touch a little on “non-organic” mulch.
We use black film mulch only for strawberries - we apply it once every three years, spreading organic matter under it. Without a good dose of organic matter, there is no point in laying down film: the soil will not improve.
The advantages of film mulch: moisture is retained much longer, there are almost no weeds. Disadvantages: it is not nutritious, not mobile, does not allow replanting or compaction of plantings. Not applicable at all for densely planted greens and root vegetables.
In summer, the black film heats up. In the damp north, in Siberia, this is only beneficial. In our country, the film also has to be covered with straw: already in June it “heats up” to 70°C. And to be honest, I’m very reluctant to pull plastic out of the garden almost every year. But it depends on who.
Of course, in Europe, and especially in Israel, mulch film is the basis of high-tech production. But the mulch films there are perfected: the required width, with holes, reflective and long-lived. And even with a yellow underside - it turns out that weed seedlings die better this way. And now they are already biodegradable. Below them is a dose of organic matter and irrigation tapes that periodically supply water and nutrient solutions. For the desert - it’s smart, and there is no other choice. For poor sandy loams and sands, this is also a radical solution, if you have the money.
My main goal is natural soil fertility. Therefore, my constant mulch is plant remains: straw, grass from mowers, leaves and shredded branches. It is placed after the beds have warmed up, when the seedlings of tomatoes and cucumbers have taken root and grown, and under it fall the succulent weeds pulled out during planting, the remains of greens and radishes, and fresh grass - a gift to the worms.
Here, for example, a young currant bush is cut to increase growth. 4–5 kg of fresh grass lay under it. It will be eaten by worms before August. Imagine the work they will do!
Straw we take the baled one. It controls weeds better than others. It is light, reflects light and does not heat up - this is an important plus for the south. Easy to lay in layers. Decomposes slowly over the course of a year.
If you want to speed up the decomposition, sprinkle a solution of sugar and urea, one glass per bucket of water. This is "fuel" for microbes that decompose cellulose.
Traditionally, strawberries are mulched with straw, in English - strawberry, “straw berry”. All my beds usually go into the winter under mulch, covered with a thick blanket. Having removed the mulch in the spring, I can sow and plant by hand - the soil is perfectly prepared.
It is especially useful to cover the trampled area with straw. autumn green manure. By spring there is little left of it. All passages and paths in the garden are necessarily and constantly covered with straw - here the roots also feed and find moisture.
I can't help but mention: potatoes under straw. This method is successfully used by many. After warming up a little and loosening the bed with a pitchfork, we scatter humus, compost, and any nutritious organic matter on it. We place straw on top in a loose layer of 10–15 cm. We make passes in the straw with our hands and press pieces of seed tubers with sprouts into the soil. We leave holes so that the sprouts can quickly get out.
Once we got out, we rake the bushes so that no light gets through to the soil. This is all. There is no need to hill up, weeding is almost the same. It is necessary to water well twice: at the time of budding and at the end of flowering. The harvest is harvested at the beginning of the yellowing of the tops. There is no need to dig: the tubers lie right under the straw, clean.
Grass from lawnmower hopper- perhaps the most ideal mulch for garden beds. It is nutritious, contains a lot of nitrogen and attracts crowds of worms. It quickly cakes into a dense layer and holds out weeds perfectly. It's always damp underneath. Open from April until the end of the season. Replenishes as mowing occurs. During the winter it disintegrates completely. Completely free.
Dry leaves- the same as straw, but more nutritious and compacts more densely - a real blanket. Knowledgeable people They store leaves by the cubic meter. Any kind is suitable, except oak and walnut - it’s better to lie aside for a year: they are too rich in aggressive tannins. Under the foliage, the beds overwinter well.
All this organic matter gradually decomposes, is eaten and dragged into the soil, where it feeds both microbes and plants, and eventually becomes humified.
Shredded branches- supermulch. For several years I have been happily preparing it using an MTD rotary chopper, but I learned and appreciated it only after becoming acquainted with the developments of Canadians.
It turns out that the branches hardwood thinner than 5 cm - just a warehouse of sugars, pectin, amino acids and vitamins. Wood fiber is a bonus and material for creating especially durable, high-quality humus. In fact, forest soils are very fertile. Now it's clear why.
I mainly chop fruit branches, and no thicker than a finger. They are especially high in sugars and proteins. The layer is also compacted, holds moisture well and cuts off weeds. At the same time, the rug of small chips is very pleasing to the eye.
Leafy branches from summer trimmings are especially good. A real food warehouse! Before chopping, the leaves need to be dried, otherwise the chopper periodically slips, becoming clogged with juicy mass. A pile of chopped branches with leaves begins to burn inside already on the second or third day. Branches grow twice a year, and also completely free.
Which shredder is best for branches? Better is the one that comes with spare knives! Take two spare sets at once. And advice: never chop dry tree branches. The machine is not designed for them! The knives will immediately become dull. Dry branches are only for the fire. The exception is dry blackberry shoots, girl's grapes and honeysuckle, thin branches of willow, stems of weigela, buddleia, corn and other “hollows”.
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Before the onset of cold weather, every gardener thinks about how to properly prepare his site for winter. After all, each individual plant needs appropriate care, and its adequate organization is the primary task of the economic farmer. Extremely important role plays the correct insulation of trees, which can suffer from frost, strong winds and temperature changes. Let's talk on www.site about how to prepare a near-stem circle of fruit trees for the winter, and also answer the question: soil mulching - what is it?
In order for fruit trees to successfully survive the winter, something needs to be done. Trees must be treated with special preventive solutions, the tree trunk area should also be mulched and small fences should be built near the trees. Today the topic of our conversation will be the preparation of the tree trunk circle itself.
Preparing the tree trunk for winter
Before proceeding directly to insulating tree trunks, it is worth eliminating all weeds around them. Next, you need to dig up the soil ten to fifteen centimeters deep, otherwise the weeds may well germinate in the spring. Also, such digging will help destroy the roots that are close to the surface, through which frost can go deeper. Then preventive treatment of tree trunks and skeletal branches with protective solutions is carried out.
Mulching tree trunks
The most effective method for preserving trees in winter is considered to be mulching - covering the soil surface near the plants with the most different materials, which are capable of regulating water as well as air regimes in the most upper layers soil. In winter, mulch helps reduce the depth of soil freezing. At other times of the year, such material makes it possible to retain moisture, avoid the appearance of weeds, saturate the soil with nutrients and ensure long-term looseness of the soil.
Mulch or mulching material in general can be divided into two main groups, namely permanent and dynamic. The first group can include stone chips, gravel, as well as glass and other similar materials. They, it must be admitted, are characterized by more decorative qualities, although they help somewhat protect the soil. The second group is represented by foliage, peat, hay, bark (ground), sawdust, compost, etc. Such a mulch can not only protect the soil, but also effectively enrich it with useful particles.
Manure and humus can be used to cover tree trunks around trees. Also, many gardeners use spruce branches and burlap, matting and synthetic covering materials, represented by lutrasil, spunbond, etc., for this purpose. Many mulching materials can be found on the market.
Mulching trees for the winter can be done with moss. This material is able to retain heat, so it is often used in intensive gardens. Since moss retains heat, the soil underneath practically does not freeze, which is especially important for all crops with a root system located close to the surface of the earth.
After the earthen circle near the fruit trees is treated with a fungicide, it is covered with a layer of mulch of eight to ten centimeters. If you prefer to use humus and compost, the soil layer can be made thinner - about five to seven centimeters, otherwise such materials may simply rot. During severe frosts, experts strongly advise covering the layer of mulch with spruce branches or sprinkling it with snow to a height of up to one meter.
The most simple material For mulching it is worth recognizing the foliage. It perfectly helps protect perennial trees from frosts down to -30C. It is recommended to cover the root zone with leaves that have fallen from trees (exceptionally healthy ones) to a layer of twenty to thirty centimeters. Another advantage of this material is its ability to retain snow (spruce branches, etc., also have these properties).
To insulate the tree trunk for the winter, materials such as felt, straw or reeds can be used. But they are most often used for wrapping the tree trunk of young fruit trees. Burlap is wound over such material, and such a winding is secured with a rope.
Additional Information
If you are going to mulch the tree trunk with sawdust for the winter, think about their origin. If such material came from furniture shops, then it may contain a lot chemical substances. And sawdust from coniferous species trees are a source of many elements that can destroy microflora and suppress the development of other plants.
Do not forget that preparing fruit trees for winter may also include insulating the tree trunks. Such manipulation will be especially necessary for young trees, whose age does not reach five years, because they are still very sensitive to frost. Such crops may need protection with spruce branches, straw, felt, burlap, matting or various synthetic materials - special agrofibre (lutrasil or spabond).
Proper insulation the trunk circle of fruit trees will help such crops survive even the most severe frosts without loss.
If you have already done mulching in this way, then the recommendation is simple: rake the mulch with your hands, cutting off small roots (stem tissue) that may form in such a mound. By the way, it is because of them that the tree dries out faster.
Ideally, the mulch circle should look like a donut with a hole inside. You should retreat 12-15 cm from the trunk and lay mulch 10-12 cm thick around the tree. The thickness of the layer of dry grass may be less, since it is more difficult for air to pass through.
The diameter of the mulch circle should be approximately equal to the span of the tree crown; It is in this area that the root system is located underground. If you do not have the opportunity to mulch the required area, then it is possible to mulch on a smaller area, but not less than 1.5 m in diameter of the circle. But you need to know that the root system of a tree is 2 or even 3 times larger than the crown. Therefore, the larger the area you cover with organic mulch, the more nutrition the roots will receive.
Lastly, it is better to use organic mulch, which promotes soil and tree health, than inorganic mulch.
Article Author: Love
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