First on the list garden favorites You can safely place bearded irises; their main distinguishing feature is a fluffy stripe located along the central vein of the outer and sometimes inner petals of the flower.
Intensive breeding work with bearded irises began at the beginning of the 19th century in Europe. garden varieties bearded irises obtained by crossing eight species of iris: German iris (Iris germanica), variegated (Iris variegata), pale (Iris pallida), leafless, Cypriot, Mesopotamian, Kashmir, Trojan. Therefore, to this day, in commercial labeling, bearded irises are often called German irises. This outdated name has now been replaced by another, which very accurately reflects the essence - hybrid iris (Iris hybrida hort.), because all varieties of bearded irises are hybrids obtained as a result of repeated crossings (artificial pollinations). This is truly a flower" self made", a masterpiece created by man in union with nature.
In addition to the border, patterns of strokes of different colors, complex combinations of different colors that transform into each other, many modern varieties have a specific texture of the petals. It creates special visual effects, giving pastel varieties the matteness of alabaster or waxy translucency, and dark ones a velvety depth. Irises, like daylilies, have varieties with a “diamond coating” that sparkle in the sun or shimmer in the summer twilight.
In bearded irises, a thick perennial rhizome is located horizontally flush with the soil, long cord-like roots extend from it, forming a fibrous root system. The xiphoid leaves, covered with a bluish waxy coating, are folded like a fan. The iris flower has three perianth lobes: those facing upward are called “standards”, those deviating downwards are called “fouls”.
U ancient varieties Iris follae are narrow, similar to the protruding tongue of a dog. Modern varieties have wide, rounded foils, domed or crown-shaped standards and various shapes corrugation. A distinctive feature of irises of recent decades are wide fluffy beards, which in a group of varieties turn into colored “horns”, “spoons” or “frills”.
The color of the flowers has also reached an amazing variety. But, despite the targeted efforts of hybridizers, the iris has not yet been developed as a uniquely red color, numerous attempts to obtain it have led to the creation large quantity red-burgundy varieties. Therefore, it is not an exaggeration to say that the modern range of irises covers the entire range of colors, including black.
According to the American Iris Society - the leader and legislator of modern breeding of bearded irises - today there are over 80 thousand varieties. In the AIS classification, irises are divided into six garden groups, differing in peduncle height, flower size and flowering time. To choose the right plants for your garden, you should get to know them better.
(table)
A number of terms have been adopted to describe the coloring features of bearded irises:
plicata - on a light background, a pattern of dark dots and strokes merging along the edge into a border;
luminata - patterned highlights on a dark background, lighter standards;
blend (iridescent) - two or more colors smoothly transition into each other;
amena - white or lighter standards in a two-color flower, in modern varieties there is a “reverse amena”, when the standards are darker colored than the lower fouls;
splash (“torn color”) - against the background of the main color there are numerous strokes and strokes of other colors.
USE IN THE GARDEN
Originators - this is the name given to the creators of new varieties - in the process of working with the plant, they endow the flower with new properties. This is a special type of creativity aimed at finding a new visual image: in color, proportions and shape. Therefore, figuratively speaking, all garden irises are works of art.
The most hardy and winter-hardy
The lower the iris, the faster it blooms, and therefore you will be the first to greet dwarf irises. Yes, they are not so small, 40 cm is an excellent height for flowering in the first ten days of May. “Dwarfs” (SDB) are taller than groundcovers, small bulbs and emerging perennials, but on a par or slightly lower with daffodils and tulips. They overwinter without shelter, are undemanding to the soil, do not need watering, the warmth of our summer is enough for them to multiply and bloom profusely. That is why, despite their low growth, dwarf irises have become one of the most fashionable and in demand for growing in temperate climates.
Low flowers in single and group plantings look organic among stones and ground cover plants on alpine slide bringing color accents to the composition. The fantastic variety of colors of the “dwarfs” allows you to create amazing combinations both based on contrast and within the same color range. Plant dwarf irises along with tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, miniature primroses, and the eternal problem - bare soil under the bulbous ones - will be forgotten forever.
Abundant and early flowering, unpretentiousness and fertility put dwarf irises out of competition when creating extended borders and large flowering areas, on lawns, in tree trunk circles trees, on sunny slopes. In the May garden, barely covered with the first greenery, a bright carpet of blooming irises will attract everyone's attention, and after flowering it will become almost invisible. The pointed leaves of the iris with a bluish coating remain decorative throughout the season, but they are small in height, so they do not block other plants, content with the role of a tactful background. Dwarf irises can be divided and replanted even during flowering; after a warm summer, they often bloom again in August - September. “Dwarfs” can be grown in container culture, on balconies and loggias; they feel good in pots and are easy to force out in the cold season.
The most friendly
In early June, the flowering relay passes to medium-sized bearded irises up to 70 cm high, this group consists of Intermedia (IB), Table (MTB) and Border (BB) irises. The flowers of this group of irises can be very large and numerous, but due to the smaller height of the peduncles they are resistant to the wind. Table irises, as their name suggests, will decorate not only the garden, but also the house. Their graceful flowers on strong peduncles are ideal for making bouquets. All the buds of a cut flower open, which allows it to remain decorative in a vase for a long time. Moreover, such a bouquet can bloom for you by the New Year or on March 8 - medium-sized irises lend themselves well to forcing and are able to fully bloom indoors in the winter.
The flowering of the newest varieties of foreign selection simply amazes the imagination with the size, shape of the flowers, and the amazing play of shades. However, being plants of southern origin, they may require additional attention during the period of adaptation to new climatic conditions. This especially applies to peach-pink colors; they are the most vulnerable to frost.
At the beginning of June, in the off-season, when the primroses have already faded and the annuals and perennials are still preparing to bloom, it is the medium-sized irises that will add the missing colors to the garden palette. Medium-sized irises overwinter stably, grow quickly, forming lush bushes with many flower stalks.
This is the most versatile class of irises, beautiful both in single plantings and in all forms of group planting.
In addition to creating borders and large areas, medium-sized irises are best suited for planting on slopes; their powerful root system will hold the soil layer and prevent terrain deformation.
"High genre"
Tall Irises (TV)- born soloists. By growing such a meter-long beauty near your house or path, you will give yourself the incomparable pleasure of watching the birth of a flower, the change in its outlines and shades as it grows older. An iris bush can produce 10-15 peduncles, each of which has up to 25 flowers open at the same time. The collection of irises is of particular interest to connoisseurs of fragrances, because the variety of smells in different varieties Bearded irises come in no less than a range of colors and shapes.
Jasmine, peonies, foxgloves, daylilies, heucheras and onions blooming at the same time will serve as an excellent background for irises. The outstanding decorative qualities of many modern varieties with massive peduncles and large corrugated flowers will be emphasized by the restrained “accompaniment” of decorative leafy crops (sage, sage, hosta, bergenia, wormwood, cuff, sedum and young).
In all classes of bearded irises, there are varieties that are capable of repeated flowering; this property is called remontant and is designated by the abbreviation (RE). But in the middle zone this is more of a disadvantage than an advantage. In our climate, re-blooming in autumn is very irregular and occurs in dwarf and medium-sized irises after a very warm summer. All remontant varieties continue to grow actively in the fall, not having time to enter a state of dormancy before the onset of frost, which is necessary for successful wintering. Therefore, re-blooming irises are the least cold-resistant and difficult group of varieties to grow.
In group planting, varieties of pastel colors or simply similar in color look harmonious. Be especially attentive to two-color irises; they rarely “suit” planting in a single mass. In the area of contrasting combinations, a lot of possibilities are opened by the non-linear arrangement of clumps of a sufficiently large area; it is advisable to arrange groups from an odd number of varieties.
The June bloom of the tall bearded irises is truly magnificent! Their advantages are obvious, and the variety of varieties will satisfy the most demanding connoisseur. The choice depends entirely on your tastes and the location of the garden. I will only note that tall (TV) is the most demanding class of irises in terms of growing conditions.
The most unpretentious and resistant to cold, pests and diseases are the old classic irises, bred in the 19th and early 20th centuries. However, for all their endurance, they are significantly inferior to modern varieties in terms of decorative qualities. Beginning flower growers should pay attention first of all to varieties of domestic selection, one of the main priorities of which was the breeding of varieties that are most resistant to cold and disease.
SELECTION OF PLANTING MATERIAL
The planting unit of a bearded iris, the so-called “deleka”, is a piece of thick rhizome with roots extending from it and a fan of leaves, which are shortened to a length of 10-15 cm. High-quality delenki have clearly visible buds on the sides. Irises can be planted from May to September, so planting material goes on mass sale in early spring. Wherever you buy irises, be sure to take a cutting in your hands and carefully examine the plant. Yellowing of a couple of outer leaves is quite acceptable, but if softened areas of the rhizome, mold or stains are found, you should refrain from purchasing.
Bearded irises are very sensitive to excess moisture. Humidity, especially in combination with heat planting material destructive. Mature rhizomes are not afraid of drying and can be stored in a dry and cool place for up to 2 months. This feature has contributed to the wide dissemination of the culture of bearded irises, because delenki tolerate mailing well. Therefore, the most rational way to purchase planting material that is healthy and appropriate for the variety is to turn to collectors.
The largest association of iris lovers, as well as breeders and competent producers of planting material is the Russian Iris Society. Within the framework of this non-profit association of flower growers, exhibitions, training seminars, official registration of new varieties are held, and the purchase of planting material of Russian and foreign selection is coordinated. Anyone can become a member of the ROI; the association maintains an official website (http//rusiris.narod.ru) and annually publishes the newsletter “Irises of Russia” with an overview of the most significant events in the modern world of irises, articles on agricultural technology and breeding of these plants. Society address: 129110 Moscow, st. Gilyarovsky, 36-23.
What is important to take into account when purchasing planting material from private collections?
The level of collection maintenance is largely evidenced by the catalog - a list of proposed varieties with a description that informs you as much as possible about the properties of the variety. The variety class according to the height of the peduncle must be indicated. The name is followed by the surname of the breeder, the year of registration of the variety, a description of the color, features and awards received.
The times when one could mostly dream about new breeding products are over. Now we excitedly leaf through catalogs, jumping from site to site in search of interesting varieties. But the more choices, the more difficult it is to make. One “golden” rule will allow you to lay and maintain a strong foundation for your iris garden - first of all, choose award-winning varieties.
Collectors who value their reputation and circle of customers offer a system of discounts, bonuses, guarantees and order approvals, following the world practice of offering planting material. Including its unwritten law: the older the variety, the lower its price. The high cost of the newest varieties is explained not only by their outstanding decorative qualities, but also by the number of plants themselves. In irises new variety propagates only vegetatively, that is, by dividing one “original” plant obtained from a seed, therefore, by the time the variety is officially registered, the number of plants that bear it is small, and it is customary to charge the highest price for the right to own them. For reference: the price of the current year's varieties from the luminaries of American selection ranges from 30 to 50 dollars.
GROWING IRISES
Choosing a landing site
In order for flowering to be regular and abundant, the area for planting bearded irises must be as warm and light as possible, and when planting tall irises, it must be protected from the wind. Bearded irises do not tolerate excessive moisture, so flooded lowlands are not for them; in areas with high groundwater levels, planting is possible on raised ridges.
Soil preparation
The best soil for irises is light loam. Clay soils can be improved by adding sand and peat, acidic soils can be neutralized with dolomite flour, and sandy soils can be improved with clay and well-rotted compost. The soil under irises should have good water and air permeability. In the fight for porosity, all means are good - coarse sand, crushed brick, fine limestone, and charcoal will do.
Excess nitrogen reduces winter hardiness and increases the risk of bacterial infections, so organic additives (completely rotted compost or manure humus) can be added in small quantities to the lower layer of soil, to the depth of thin roots, avoiding contact with the thick rhizome.
To obtain large plants of exhibition quality (especially tall irises), planting is practiced on two-layer raised beds. The bottom layer of soil consists of compost with the addition of dolomite flour, long-acting mineral fertilizers or phosphorus-potassium complex, upper layer ridges (10-15 cm) - sand.
Planting
You can plant irises and replant them with a clod of earth from May to September, the best time is July, since at this time the active growth new roots. Planting young trees should begin with disinfection. To do this, it is enough to withstand them for 15-30 minutes. in a pink solution of potassium permanganate. If the weather is sunny, place the cuttings in the sun for several days so that the rhizome is illuminated from all sides. This “tanning” destroys pathogenic bacteria and promotes better survival and formation of flower buds.
Perennial rhizomes should remain on the soil surface when planting. Make a hole with a scoop, pour earth into a mound at the bottom (or best of all, a mixture of sand and wood ash). Hold the rhizome level with the soil surface, spread the roots along the sides of the mound, as if planting a tree astride the mound. Fill the hole by pressing the soil tightly around the roots with your hands. Water thoroughly to ensure the division does not fall over. There is no need to water the plantings anymore; it is important that all planted plants maintain a vertical position and the rhizome is not buried. The planted cuttings can be supported from the leaves with sticks or stones; after 2-3 weeks, new growing roots will provide the plant with correct contact with soil.
And the last step, optional but very forward-thinking, is to install a label with the name of the variety. A disposable plastic knife would work well as such a label. Write the name of the variety with a permanent marker and stick it next to the plant.
The taller the iris, the more space it needs. And the more often you plant irises, the sooner you will have to plant the plants. When planting irises in groups, it is advisable to place the plants at a distance from each other: for tall irises 30-40 cm, for medium-sized ones - 15-20, for dwarf ones - 10-15 cm. During the growth process, bearded irises move, the rhizome moves forward along the soil surface, therefore, when planting in a border, all cuttings should face one direction; it is better to orient the cut on the rhizome to the south-eastern sector, so the rhizome will be better illuminated and warmed up. When planting in nests, the divisions are placed with cuts towards the center.
CARE OF BEARDED IRISES
In the spring, after the snow melts, it may seem that the irises have died, but do not rush to conclusions. If the rhizome is hard, after 1-2 weeks the iris will turn lushly green. Treat the iris and the soil around it with ash or one of the fungicides. wood ash for irises it is both a hygiene product and a fertilizer; it is applied several times a season.
Most often, the upper part of the rhizome with the flower bud freezes out. Cut the damaged area down to solid healthy tissue as soon as possible. Iris renewal buds are laid on the sides of the rhizomes, so even a radically “operated” iris has a chance of survival. Fresh cuts on the rhizome should always be disinfected. Here are the remedies from the extensive experience of practitioners; a mixture of sulfur and charcoal, brilliant green, fukortsin, potassium permanganate, metronidazole powder. Try to provide the rhizomes with maximum illumination, solar ultraviolet - the best remedy fight against bacteriosis.
The need for bearded irises in moisture is covered by the amount of natural precipitation, they do not need regular watering, watering is desirable in dry summers for tall irises during the flowering period. In the non-chernozem zone, the development and winter hardiness of plants can be stimulated by fertilizing. In spring, nitrogen-phosphorus (3:1), during budding - nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (1:1:1), 2-3 weeks after flowering - phosphorus-potassium (1:1). Fertilizers are applied to moist soil, preventing granules from getting on the rhizome.
Prevention and protection against diseases
Basic care for irises comes down to disease prevention. The emergence of rot caused by various types of bacteria is facilitated by dampness, excess organic matter, thickened plantings and long-term cultivation in one place. When a disease is detected, there is only one way to fight: the affected part of the plant is cut out, the rest is treated with fungicidal agents (see above).
An effective measure for the prevention and control of rots of various origins is the introduction of preparations of live bacteria into the soil under irises (Trichodermin, Gliocladin), which suppress the development of pathogenic microorganisms. Spring sowing in areas intended for summer planting of irises and annual green manure crops ( white mustard, phacelia) followed by planting them to a depth of about 20 cm will improve the soil and provide the irises with optimal nutrition.
In the second half of summer, brown spots and yellowing ends can be seen on the foliage of irises. Spots caused by various pathogens do not directly threaten the life of the plant, but they spoil the appearance and can affect winter hardiness. Help to keep the foliage healthy: regular preventive spraying of foliage with fungicides (foundazol, Maxim,
0.2% copper oxychloride), spacious planting, pre-winter pruning of leaves (and even subsequent whitewashing with lime).
Wintering
Irises of domestic selection and time-tested foreign varieties, which have been grown for quite a long time, are distinguished by the greatest winter hardiness. middle lane. For most irises, 30 cm of snow is sufficient protection from frost. The most vulnerable are the new items in the world selection of tall irises. The potential of their winter hardiness and methods of covering have to be established experimentally.
Most dwarf and medium-sized irises in gardens near Moscow can overwinter without shelter. In tall irises in November, before the cold weather, the rhizomes are covered with 8-10 cm of soil, and when the soil is frozen, they are covered with spruce branches or any breathable material.
The most reliable way to cover bearded irises is “dry wintering”.
In rainy autumn, a low, rigid canopy is installed over the irises so that the soil remains dry and the shelter is blown through. With the onset of the first frost, the foliage is cut off at a height of 10 cm, the plants are sprayed with fungicide and covered with lutrasil over the canopy.
A small number of plants can be covered with mesh plastic boxes and lutrasil or caps made of plastic containers with holes at the bottom. Any method that allows you to maintain air circulation under the shelter is good.
Irises, especially large-flowered varieties, with a powerful rhizome (they require a lot of space and nutrients), after a couple of years they grow and begin to interfere with each other. As a result, they bloom worse and worse. To avoid this problem, plants need to be divided every 4-6 years. The period from late July to September is suitable for this. Remove the plant from the ground with a pitchfork, shake off the soil from the rhizome, cut off the leaves. Then cut the rhizomes, separating the plants from each other. Select the strongest specimens with leaves. Plant them in a circle at a distance of 40 cm from each other, so that the plane of the cut of the rhizome looks inside this circle. You can add compost to the soil first. Just lightly sprinkle the rhizomes with soil so that they are not visible. Water the plants thoroughly. There is no need to take any further measures in the coming weeks.
Bearded iris- a very special plant. It was bred by crossing various types irises back in antiquity. Thus, it is one of the most ancient horticultural crops in human history. Bearded iris grew in the gardens of the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans.
Iris was named after Iris, the goddess of the rainbow - after all, the flowers of this plant of different varieties are painted in the colors of the rainbow. Bearded irises (Iris x barbata) of modern varieties represent a wide variety of color shades: from snow-white to black-violet.
The varieties are divided into groups that differ in the height of their peduncles. Low-growing bearded irises (Iris x barbata-nana), 20-40 cm high, bloom earlier than others, in the spring. Medium-sized bearded irises (Irisxbarbata-media) include plants with a height of 50 to 70 cm. They bloom two weeks later than short-growing ones. The most impressive are the tall bearded irises (Iris x barbata-elatior) 0.5-1 m high, their large flowers bloom in summer.
The variety of shapes and colors contributes to the popularity of the bearded iris. In addition, it fits very harmoniously into various garden styles. Thus, in combination with decorative onions, lupins and delphinium, irises create a romantic mood in the garden. A trio of iris, peonies and geranium produces the same effect. The spirit of the Mediterranean emanates from the flower garden with catnip, santolina, milkweed and lavender. Bearded iris is also suitable for gardens in modern style, in which a limited number of plants that stand out for something special are usually grown. In such a garden, for example, a group of irises with their pointed sword-shaped leaves and large picturesque flowers could become a bright accent against the background of graceful silhouettes ornamental grasses. Tip: if you're going. To grow bearded irises of multi-colored varieties, choose monochromatic partners for them in the flower garden, otherwise the whole composition will be too colorful. For bearded iris, you need to choose partners, taking into account that their roots do not drown out the rhizomes of the soloist plant, which fit tightly to each other and are shallow in the soil. It must also be processed and weeded very carefully so as not to damage the rhizomes of the irises.
Iris is unpretentious if the place for its growth is chosen correctly. It prefers sunny places, that is, the flower garden should be well lit by the sun for at least three quarters of the day. If you plant bearded iris in the shade, it will not bloom. The soil should be well drained and limed. When overwatered, the fleshy rhizomes of bearded iris can rot.
On a note:
In nature, there are many shades of iris: from white to black. Divide irises into two large groups: tuberous and bulbous. For planting, choose a sunny place: flowers and light partial shade are tolerated. Neutral soils are suitable. They get sick on wet soils, but don’t bloom on acidic soils. Plants are planted in September-October, so that they have time to take root. The flowering period of irises is short - from May to June. Flowers live only one to five days, but the leaves are decorative throughout the life of the plant. Three times a season, irises are fed with mineral fertilizers.
Planting irises
The best time to plant bearded irises is in August. Important: the plants should have time to settle down in a new place before winter. If you didn't have time before the fall, you can try planting irises in the spring. To do this, simply loosen the soil, deepen the rhizomes a little into it and lightly sprinkle them with soil.
The distance between plants depends on whether you have chosen a tall or short growing variety, and ranges from 40 to 80 cm. Bearded iris loves fertile soil, but it is better not to feed it with nitrogen fertilizers. Choose phosphorus and potassium fertilizers and apply them before flowering. An increased nitrogen content can cause rotting of the rhizomes. If this happens, the rotten parts are cut off and the wounds are treated with crushed charcoal.
Bearded irises during flowering special care not required. Just enjoy their beauty. Plants need to be watered only in very dry weather. For faded irises, the stems are cut at a level of 10 cm from the soil surface. So-called remontant varieties, such as Lovley Again, bloom again in late summer or even autumn, thereby reducing the wait time for the next mass flowering of these magnificent flowers.
Note: Need to share
When transplanting and dividing bearded iris and to prevent bacterial rot, it is useful to leave the dug up rhizomes in the sun for a couple of hours.
When planting, the leaves are cut to two-thirds of their original length.
Irises are distinguished by excellent vitality, get along well with many plants, multiply quickly and delight us with their fancy flowering in mid-May.
But even such unpretentious flowers as irises have their own characteristics in growing.
Features of care and planting of irises
The abundant flowering of irises largely depends on the location. Plants grow well in sunny open places, in partial shade and even in shady areas of the garden, but you won’t expect flowering in the shade, so in order to please yourself with the beauty of blooming irises, you need to provide the plants with good lighting.
Another rule that needs to be remembered when planting irises is that the flowers do not tolerate wetlands. The soil should dry out thoroughly. High humidity leads to rotting of the roots and buds of the iris.
Therefore, choose well-drained places, hills, open space. At high humidity there is a risk of developing bacterial or fungal rot and pests such as iris flowerpot and slugs.
The iris flower lady causes great damage to the blooms of bearded irises. During flight (the beginning of chestnut flowering), the female lays eggs in the buds, from which larvae mature in a couple of weeks. They feed on juice, hence the buds become soft, watery and do not produce a full-fledged flower.
Upon closer inspection, you can see small punctures in the petals.
And when pressed with your fingers, liquid flows out of the bud.
All damaged buds must be plucked and destroyed. During the period when the shoots appear, for prevention I dust them with ash, tobacco dust, pepper, mustard or lime, spray them soap solution with the addition of alcohol or ammonia, I make infusions of celandine, tansy, burdock, aloe, and wormwood. All bitter herbs are suitable. The main thing is to actively carry out all kinds of activities during budding to scare the pest away from the plant. In the literature, various systemic insecticides are recommended for growing irises and protecting them: Aktar, Confidor, Mosplan, but on my site I do not use pesticides, I prefer only natural remedies. These same measures repel cutworms, aphids and slugs that feed on the leaves and flowers of the plant.
It is also enough to plant irises in a sunny place to get rid of slugs and rot, since good drying of the soil is a prevention against these troubles.
Irises are quite drought-resistant. However, they require moderate watering, especially during the flowering period.
Soils prefer light, structured, sandy loam and loam, although sometimes they can tolerate any. They respond well to the introduction of mature compost in early spring and autumn. Nitrogen fertilizers should be applied in small doses, since bearded irises do not have highly developed leaf apparatus, but acidification of the soil from excess nitrogenous substances can also adversely affect plant development. It does not hurt to make a one-time complex mineral fertilizer during flowering, for example, flower kemira.
Growing irises
Irises are propagated by dividing the root or by sowing seeds. On pollinated flowers, seed pods appear, which can be plucked by the end of August and planted before winter.
It is better to collect the seeds of bearded irises when they are slightly unripe (the shell of the box becomes soft, light green in color), then the percentage of germination increases. Seedlings will bloom only in the 3rd year. Propagation by seeds makes sense only in breeding work, since irises grown from seeds of natural pollination do not always have the same characteristics as the mother plant.
It is easier to propagate by division, which should be done two weeks after flowering and until September.
The overgrown rhizome of the iris can be divided without digging.
It is enough to separate a part of the root with shoots with a shovel and transplant it to the right place. This is, so to speak, a rough method of propagating a plant that does not require specific knowledge and skills.
Also, division can be done by digging out the entire rhizome from the ground. I prefer to dig because first of all it gives me the opportunity to work compost into the soil in that area. A plant dug up and cleared of soil allows us to examine it in more detail, remove damaged areas, and divide the rhizome into smaller shoots, which increases the amount of planting material. We divide the large root of the bearded iris according to the “cut at the neck” principle, that is, it has round large sections of the “head”, which are connected to each other by thin short bridges “necks”. So you need to cut exactly on these thin sections.
It happens that two or three sprouts grow at once on one head.
You can leave them, then the iris will grow as a bush.
If the root system is developed, then you can divide these shoots by chopping off a piece of rhizome with roots for each division.
If the long roots are not enough, then there is no need to divide the head. When dividing a bearded iris bush, we shorten the leaves to avoid excess moisture loss during the plant’s establishment.
Plant at a distance of at least 10 cm, forming small mounds for the roots in several rows.
Iris plantings are arranged in different ways. Can be planted in wide or narrow stripes as the outer frame of a flower garden. Interesting solution will make a figure of irises or plant them in separate areas in the form of color spots.
Bearded irises are ideal for flower gardens and mixborders.
It is also possible to plant irises in a continuous flower carpet as a decoration for tree trunks or decorative bushes. Plantings of irises are diversified by inclusions of bulbous ones, such as tulips, which bloom almost at the same time as early flowering varieties. Irises look spectacular against the background of blooming peonies.
Often the plants are combined with daylilies and lilies, which immediately begin to bloom after the irises have faded. The agricultural technology of these plants is the same, so they get along well with one another.
Growing bearded irises will bring you a lot of pleasure with its simplicity and excellent results. Breeders have developed many different varieties that will become worthy decoration your garden.
Once you set up a garden plot, there are too few shade spots in the garden, and it is difficult for plants to survive. But in open areas, even with extreme heat and without watering, bearded irises grow well. Next, a little about growing bearded irises, the peculiarities of their planting, and their use in garden design.
Description of bearded irises
Bearded irises (Iris barbata hybriden) have a thickened root and straight leaves arranged in a fan. When purchasing plant divisions, you need to check for the presence of white-yellow swellings on the rhizome, from which thin roots will develop during planting. If you accidentally bought a piece of wood with signs of softening, diaper rash or rot, don’t be upset. It is necessary to keep the roots in a raspberry solution of potassium permanganate and dry them in the sun for a couple of days.
Even experts are unlikely to be familiar with the huge assortment of bearded irises; catalogs are replenished with new varieties every year. Groups of plants are conventionally divided by height:
- Elatior – tall, above 70 cm;
- Media – medium, 40-70 cm;
- Nana – dwarf, 15-30 cm.
Bearded iris - variety of colors (photos are clickable)
When does the bearded iris bloom?
The flowering period of bearded irises depends on the variety. Dwarf flowers bloom much earlier - in the second half of April. Then comes the flowering of the middle ones, and at the end of May the tall ones continue the baton. For tall irises, it is better to choose a windless place; strong gusts of wind can damage their flower stalks. In addition, in rainy times, their flower stalks also bend strongly towards the ground, collecting moisture into the buds.
Bearded iris (photo)
The color variety of irises is amazing; they have many pure and combined colors. There are two-color combinations and more complex ones. There are pronounced elegant contrasting edges, and there are also smooth transitions one color to another.
Growing bearded irises
Based on more than 25 years of experience in growing irises, we can say that they have no special soil requirements. They grow well in sandy soils and loams. The only requirement is that they do not like waterlogged soils, so if there is close groundwater, they need to make raised beds.
Planting and caring for bearded irises
High varieties certainly require sufficient space. Our southern wall of the house is lined with irises along its entire length; the width for the flower garden was set at 80 cm. When planting, it is important to leave the thick part of the rhizome on the surface and not cover it with soil. Otherwise, the iris will not bloom until the rhizome comes out of the ground.
Irises are divided and replanted 1-2 weeks after flowering. This period can be extended until the end of August. When purchasing and transplanting, you should not rush into planting too much. It is even beneficial to dry the plants a little in the sun; they will suffer less from rot.
single planting of irises near the house
Irises in garden design
Most often, bearded irises are used in monoplantings. They have a very wide range of colors, and the bushes themselves are quite large, so combining plants is not particularly necessary. In such monoplantings you can occasionally intersperse sage, perovskia, yarrow, wormwood and lavender.
But sometimes it is necessary to create a flowering sequence, then plantings are done in the form of a mixborder, where the flowering of plants is shifted in time. For example, along the fence you can plant bulbs in rows - crocuses, tulips and muscari. Then a wide stripe of irises, and in the background - Septembers (New England asters). All crops must be drought-resistant.
For its ease of care and variety of colors, the bearded iris has long enjoyed well-deserved popularity. Of course, in small gardens you cannot collect a large collection; they still need enough space. But for a couple of bushes you can choose the most open areas, and rejoice in their flowering. Growing bearded irises correct landing rhizomes are easy even for beginners.
"Super Ego"
Photo EDSR.
Location: illuminated areas protected from the wind. You can plant plants in semi-shaded places, but varietal irises are light-loving.
The soil: light or medium in mechanical composition, fairly fertile, cultivated to a depth of at least 20 cm and well drained, pH 6.5-7.5. On soils rich in organic matter, plants develop a powerful vegetative mass to the detriment of flowering. In addition, they do not have time to finish growing in the fall and suffer from fungal diseases. When preparing sandy and loamy soils, it is recommended to apply 8-10 kg of humus, 10 g of nitrogen and 15-20 g of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers per 1 m2.
Care: in early spring, the soil is loosened to a depth of 5-8 cm and liquid phosphorus-potassium fertilizer is applied (10-12 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2). Since the rhizomes are located close to the soil surface, it is better not to use dry dressings. The first nitrogen top dressing (10 g/m 2) is carried out after the start of intensive leaf regrowth, the second (10 g/m 2) by adding 10-15 g of phosphorus and 20 g of potash fertilizers per 1 m 2 - after 10-12 days. During the flowering period and immediately after it ends, the plants are fed with phosphorus (15-20 g / m 2) and potash (20-25 g / m 2) fertilizers.
On low-fertility soils, during the second wave of growth of the root system (the second ten days of August), along with phosphorus per 1 m2 (25-30 g of superphosphate) and potassium (15-18 g of potassium sulfate), nitrogen fertilizers (8-10 g of ammonium nitrate) are applied. . The last feeding with phosphorus (15-20 g) and potassium (10-15 g) fertilizers is carried out in late September - early October. This fertilizing promotes better formation and differentiation of generative buds, as well as deeper winter dormancy, due to which plants better tolerate unfavorable overwintering conditions and suffer less from fungal and bacterial diseases.
After flowering, flowering shoots are removed. During the entire growing season, weeding and loosening of the soil are carried out. In autumn, the leaves are pruned at a height of up to 10 cm. New varieties, especially American selection, are mulched for the winter with peat, humus, and covered with leaves and spruce branches. They can grow in one place for up to 5 years.
"Vanity"
Photo by Olga Bondareva
Diseases and pests: irises can be affected by rust, heterosporiosis, gray mold, fusarium iris bulbous rot, wet rot, line mosaic virus, aphids, gladiolus thrips, slugs, onion hoverfly, onion root mite, strawberry, stem and root-knot nematodes.
Reproduction: vegetatively and by seed.
The seed method is used for the propagation of species plants and for breeding purposes. Sowing seeds can be done in the fall after collecting them in loose, nutritious soil to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. In the spring, friendly shoots appear. If seeds are sown in spring, they need stratification. Seedlings dive at a distance of 5-10 cm. After 2 years they are planted on permanent place. Plants bloom in the 3-4th year.
Division is carried out in the 4-5th year of cultivation. Best time for replanting - the first 3-4 weeks after the end of flowering, acceptable - the entire second half of summer. Well-developed rhizomes are dug up, the leaves are cut at a height of 10-15 cm from the base and the rhizome is cut into pieces 2-4 cm long, the sections are sprinkled with charcoal. Each division should have 2-3 links and 2-3 growth buds. Planting is carried out in grooves 3-5 cm deep. The feeding area depends on the height of the plants: 10x15, 30x30, 50x50 cm. In order for the cuts on the rhizomes to dry out and prevent rotting, planting is carried out one day after division. If desired, the iris variety can be propagated by small pieces of rhizome with one bud, but this is a very risky method.
 Amigos Guitar Photo by Olga Bondareva |
 "Brides Halo" Photo by Olga Bondareva |
 "Dusky Challenger" Photo by Olga Bondareva |
 "Edith Wolford" Photo by Olga Bondareva |
 "Milestone" Photo by Olga Bondareva |
 "Oriental Etching" Photo by Olga Bondareva |
 "River Hawk" Photo by Olga Bondareva |
 "Stearway to Heaven" Photo by Olga Bondareva |
 "Tall Gate" Photo by Olga Bondareva |
 "Tanya" Photo by Olga Bondareva |
 "Thornbird" Photo by Olga Bondareva |
 "Vanity" Photo by Olga Bondareva |
 Iris "Dorothea" Photo of Terry Irina |
 Iris "Blue Sapphire" Photo of Terry Irina |
 Iris "Pow Wow" Photo |
