Growing eggplants (step-by-step agricultural technology). Transplantation is a serious matter! How to grow eggplants in open ground

Eggplant is a heat-loving vegetable, and open ground its cultivation is not always possible. In the south and in the Black Earth Region this is not difficult even without a greenhouse, but in the Moscow region or the Siberian region it is a very risky activity. However, since, apart from being thermophilic, eggplant is not much different from other garden dwellers, summer residents are trying to grow it in open ground in different regions our country.

Eggplant varieties for open ground

Of no small importance is right choice variety (or hybrid). Store shelves are full of colorful bags, and advertising does its job: we often buy what is imposed on us, but first we should take the time to read how they differ different varieties, because in winter there is enough time for this.

Varieties of many crops intended for greenhouse cultivation are not very suitable for open ground, and vice versa. Sometimes this is due to the characteristics of pollination (bees do not fly in a greenhouse), but most often it is only due to resistance to the vagaries of the weather. For planting eggplants in open ground, it is especially important to choose a variety that has good yield and a short growing season: summer in most parts of our country is short. Fortunately, there are now varieties and hybrids that meet several requirements at once:

The best eggplant hybrids for open ground

For capricious crops, it is more reliable to plant hybrids (indicated by the F1 icon). True, you cannot collect seeds from them (and if collected, they will not inherit the characteristics mother plant), But hybrid varieties usually more productive and most resistant to unfavorable conditions. After all, we are not chasing hybrids, for example, beets or parsley - these are unpretentious vegetables. But we increasingly use hybrid seeds when sowing cucumbers and even tomatoes. This applies even more to heat-loving eggplants. It is difficult to choose the best from many dozens of varieties (but the taste and color...), so we will give a few examples of wonderful hybrids intended for planting in open ground:

• Bull's Heart F1 - begins to bear fruit 4 months after sowing, that is, it is considered mid-early. The bush is large, branched. Requires tying: very large oval-shaped fruits grow (weighing about 300 g, sometimes up to 500 g). Their color is dark purple and shiny. Inside the fruits are dense, almost white, without bitterness. The hybrid bears fruit for a long time, disease resistance is high;
• Galina F1 - early ripening, the bush is quite tall, spreading, the leaves are very large. The fruits are almost right cylindrical, large, reaching a length of 15 cm with a weight of 200–220 g. Painted in a dark purple color, with a gloss. The pulp is loose, tender, almost white, not bitter; gourmets characterize their taste as exquisite. The total yield reaches 6.5–7 kg per 1 m2;
• Esaul F1 - medium ripening period, harvest can begin 4.5 months after sowing the seeds. The bush is of medium height and medium branching, the leaves are also of normal size. The fruits are cylindrical, thin: with a length of about 15 cm, their diameter is only 3 cm. For this reason, the maximum weight of one fruit is 200 g, and the yield is not higher than 6 kg/m2. The color is usual for eggplants, shiny. The pulp is without bitterness, greenish in color. Esaul F1 is considered one of the most delicious eggplants grown without shelter;
• Emerald F1 - characterized by a mushroom flavor and fruit aroma, the plant is very hardy: it has increased cold and disease resistance. Medium-early ripening hybrid: from sowing to condition technical ripeness It takes only 105 days for the fruit to grow. The plant is tall, but not spreading, the leaves are large. The fruits are green, oval, up to 13 cm long, glossy. The weight of eggplant is up to 400 g, but the yield is decent: up to 7.3 kg/m2. The pulp is not bitter, almost white. It is one of the most unpretentious eggplants; fruits are formed even in cold and rainy weather;
• Lava F1 is characterized by generous and long fruiting, excellent taste and commercial properties of the fruit. Medium early ripening, spreading bush, quite tall. The fruits are cylindrical, up to 15 cm long, medium-sized: weight up to 150 g. They have a dark purple, glossy color, and the flesh is greenish-white and does not taste bitter. Productivity is good. The variety needs additional shaping or tying.

Photo gallery: popular eggplant varieties for open ground

Galina F1 - a high-yielding eggplant for lovers of delicious food Eggplant Esaul F1 - very slender Emerald Eggplant F1 violates the usual phrase “color of eggplant” Eggplant Bull Heart F1 in appearance corresponds to its name Eggplant Lava F1 bears fruit for a very long time

Tall eggplants for open ground

Gardeners try to plant tall eggplants, believing that they will get a larger harvest. There is some truth in this, although the yield is not always proportional to the size of the bush. In the greenhouse, of course, they try to save all the available space and plant bushes up to the ceiling. In the open ground, it is more convenient to care for compact bushes that do not even require tying, but for taller lovers there are also tall eggplants intended for beds without shelter. For example:

Early eggplants for open ground

Among eggplant varieties and hybrids, those that ripen 3–3.5 months after germination are considered early. There is also the concept of “super early hybrids”; their season until the technical maturity of the fruit is even shorter: up to 80 days. For the coldest regions with short summers, they are required, and in the middle zone they can be planted early varieties. Let's look at a few examples.

• Negus is considered an extremely early variety. It grows as very low bushes (maximum 60 cm), which do not require staking and are characterized by increased cold resistance. The fruits are barrel-shaped, medium in size, weighing from 150 to 300 g, almost black in color. Since the number of fruits on the bushes is large, the overall yield is decent. The taste is considered very good. If you pick fruits at the stage of technical ripeness, fruiting continues until the onset of cold weather. If you select several fruits for seeds (and this is not a hybrid, they can be collected), they have time to ripen to readiness, but the formation of the next ones stops. Eggplants of the Negus variety are stored well and do not deteriorate during transportation; their purpose is universal.
• The Alekseevsky variety has an early ripening period - 95–105 days. The bush is undersized. The fruits are cylindrical, dark purple, 15–18 cm long, reaching a weight of 190 g. The pulp is white, without bitterness. Eggplants have good shelf life and are suitable for transportation. Can be planted in the ground in early June.
• King of the North F1 is a hybrid, it can be grown in open ground even in the Moscow region and a little further north, it is popular in Siberia. When the temperature drops, the yield does not lose. Speaking about eggplants, we usually note that 0 o C is destructive for them, but this hybrid tolerates even mild frosts, and, on the contrary, does not like heat. Productivity (up to 14 kg per 1 m2) is one of the highest for early eggplants; the first fruits are ready for consumption three months after germination. It grows as a squat bush, not reaching half a meter in height; there are no thorns. The fruits are large, very long and thin, of the usual color for most eggplants, with white flesh, not bitter.

Photo gallery: early varieties of eggplant for open ground

The extra-early eggplant variety Negus is capable of bearing fruit until cold weather
Eggplant King of the North tolerates even slight frosts Eggplants of the Alekseevsky variety are distinguished by good keeping quality

Features of planting eggplants in open ground

The growing season for eggplants is long, so I would like to plant them in the garden as early as possible, but biological features they do not allow this to be done: most varieties of eggplants do not tolerate even the slightest frost, and at low positive temperatures they do not grow and get sick. Therefore, sowing seeds directly into a garden bed is possible only in the southernmost regions of Russia, and even there planting is carried out no earlier than April, which means it is impossible to obtain vegetables without seedlings.

Seeds for seedlings are sown earlier than most other crops - back in February. By the time they are planted in the garden, the seedlings should already be viable bushes.

Eggplant seedlings are sown in February

When to plant eggplants in open ground

The timing of planting eggplants in the garden depends on the climatic characteristics of the region and the weather of a particular year. It is best that by the time of planting the average daily temperature is not lower than 20 o C. In most places it is unrealistic to wait for this, and therefore seedlings are initially planted under temporary shelters until the soil warms up to 15 o C at a depth of 10–12 cm. Approximate planting time The seedlings in the garden bed are as follows:

• in the south of the country - April 25 - May 5;
• in the central regions of Russia and Belarus - May 25 - June 5;
• in the Urals and Siberia - June 10–15.

The time of day also matters, although this applies to seedlings of most crops. Almost always they try to plant it in the evening, when the sun is no longer shining, and even better if the next 2-3 days are expected to be cloudy.

Good, high-quality eggplant seedlings cannot be lower than 20 cm in height (preferably 25), and must have at least 5 juicy healthy leaves (optimally 6–8). At the same time, it is undesirable to grow it in a common box; each specimen should be in a separate pot. 10–15 days before planting, the seedlings are accustomed to outdoor weather, taken to the balcony for increasingly longer periods of time.

The seedlings should be strong and healthy, with large green leaves

At what distance to plant eggplants?

The planting pattern for eggplants can be different and determined both by the preferences of the gardener and the plant variety, and therefore, the size of the future adult bush:

Technique for planting eggplant seedlings

And now you and I know when to plant seedlings and at what distance, but we haven’t talked at all about the beds. Actually, there is nothing unusual in setting up beds for eggplants: their size can be whatever is convenient for the gardener, but the soil must be fertile. As with any crops, gardeners try to dig up the bed in the fall. For eggplants, you need to add large doses of fertilizer when digging (but not fresh manure!). This could be rotted manure or compost.

Fresh manure should not be applied to eggplants.

The choice of location is based on the properties of the plant: the bed should be well lit. “Blues” are afraid of northern winds, so a fence or wall of a garden house can serve as excellent protection. In the middle zone, warm beds are often prepared for eggplants:

1. In the fall, all kinds of garbage, branch cuttings, foliage, and sawdust are dumped into a hole about 50 cm deep in the following sequence:
   • first large debris (boards),
   • then the branches
   • after - paper or cardboard,
   • the next layer is dry grass, leaves, sawdust.
2. Water it all with infusions of manure or bird droppings.
3. And only then they fill it with clean fertile soil, building a high ridge.
4. They enclose it with sides made of boards, slate, metal, etc.

In the central regions it is not a problem to get good peat; he is one of best fillers for warm beds. And don’t forget about wood ash: this fertilizer is never superfluous in the garden.

Warm beds contain a lot of organic matter, which creates heat when rotting.

Planting is done in the spring, when the soil at a depth of 10–12 cm warms up to 15 o C.

1. The bed is being loosened.
2. A few days before planting, they are spilled with warm water with the addition of mullein infusion.
3. On the morning of planting, water the seedlings well.
4. Plant eggplants a little deeper than they were in the pots.
5. The planted plants are well watered, and the soil around them is lightly mulched.

The seedlings of this vegetable are very tender and do not tolerate transplantation well, so everything must be done very carefully.

It is advisable to immediately provide pegs when planting if the variety requires subsequent staking. Newly planted plants most likely will not need to be tied up, but after they take root in a new place, they will continue to grow at a high speed.

Even in the south, in the evenings, the bed should first be covered with non-woven materials.

Video: planting eggplants in the garden

How to plant eggplants in open ground

There are detailed tables describing the best and worst neighbors for a particular culture. Sometimes they are contradictory, but in general they are quite understandable. It is clear that eggplants cannot be planted after any nightshades (tomatoes, peppers, potatoes). But is it possible to plant them next to these crops?

In a greenhouse, where every meter is precious, eggplants are often planted next to peppers: after all, they have very similar growing conditions. Many people do this without shelter, sometimes even alternating rows of peppers and eggplants. This is a completely normal neighborhood, but it is advisable to focus on the height of the bushes: peppers also love the sun, and the one and a half meter “little blue” bushes next door will oppress it.

But planting eggplants next to tomatoes and potatoes is no longer advisable. Not because they will interfere with each other, but because all three have one terrible enemy - the Colorado potato beetle, and, having settled on potato leaves, it will also eat eggplants.

Various legumes (peas, beans, beans) are good neighbors for the crop, but only bush ones: plants that are too tall will create shade. Eggplants and cabbage coexist normally. And some flowers (nasturtium, marigolds, petunias) are good protectors, driving away many pests with their scents.

Marigolds will help eggplants - they will repel pests

How to properly grow eggplants in open ground

At first after planting, until they take root, eggplants grow very slowly. It is important not to disturb them: you just need to keep the soil slightly moist and loose. And after the growth resumes, the gardener will have more worries: watering, fertilizing, loosening, pinching.

How often to water

If you violate the rules of watering, the eggplant itself will tell you about it, but it may be too late: with a lack of moisture, the leaves begin to fall, then the buds, and the stem becomes as if wooden. This cannot be allowed. Eggplants require a lot of water, but waterlogging of the soil is also unacceptable. The frequency of watering depends on the phase of plant development:

1. For the first week or week and a half, you need to carefully monitor the condition of the soil. Depending on the weather, daily watering may be required at this time. It should only be carried out with water heated in the sun. Carefully, at the root, possibly followed by restoration of the mulch.
2. Once the seedlings take root and resume growth, watering can be reduced. Until the first flowers appear, weekly watering is usually sufficient (in the morning or evening from a watering can, under the roots, with warm water at the rate of about a bucket per 1 m2). In case of very hot and dry weather, the frequency of watering will have to be increased.
3. From the blooming of flowers until the end of the growing season, one watering per week is not enough for eggplants, unless, of course, it rains frequently. If it is impossible to get to the site during the week, you should try giving a double dose of moisture on the weekend. It's not very good, but it's better than nothing. Water temperature - not lower than 25 o C.

The soil under eggplants should never dry out.

To water the eggplant, you need to take enough water so that it takes several minutes to absorb it into the soil.

After each watering or rain, loosening is necessary (as long as the condition of the bushes allows it). At first, it would also be useful to slightly hill the plants, which stimulates the appearance of additional roots and, as a result, increases the yield. If hilling is not possible, you can add fertile soil to the roots. It is clear that these actions are accompanied by the removal of weeds.

What and how often to feed

If the bed was well filled with fertilizers, then there should be enough fertilizer for the eggplants until fruit sets. But in order for the harvest to be truly worthy, these vegetables are fed frequently, almost every two weeks. The minimum number of feedings over the summer is three:

1. The first feeding should stimulate good growth bush, so it is carried out soon after the seedlings take root in the garden bed, that is, 15–20 days after planting - with a solution complex fertilizer(for example, nitroammofoski) strictly according to the instructions for the drug. If growth is too slow, you can add a little more nitrogen to this fertilizer, preferably urea.
2. The second mandatory feeding is in the bud opening phase. The composition of the nutrient solution is the same. You can use mullein infusion.
3. During the third feeding, during the period of massive fruit growth, you should not add organic matter and the plant does not need nitrogen. Of the mineral fertilizers, only superphosphate and potassium sulfate are required. Fans of natural fertilizers can replace this mixture with an infusion of wood ash.

You can sprinkle a lot of “waste” fertilizer - ash - under the bushes

The need for additional feeding will be demonstrated by the plants themselves: if the leaves change color, the fruits grow poorly or take on an ugly shape, then you need to look for the reason: the eggplants lack some element. Sometimes they need minimal amount boron or molybdenum, but this problem is easily solved by ash. If growth is slow before fruit formation, you need to add urea, and if fruit growth is poor, even in favorable weather, you can safely sprinkle ash directly under the roots. Foliar feeding for eggplants is rarely used.

Growing eggplants

Most varieties and hybrids of eggplant require proper bush formation to obtain a good harvest. There are various schemes (one, two or several stems), in different cases one of them is suitable. When choosing a pruning method, you must take into account the recommendations for growing a particular variety. This is especially important in the case of greenhouse cultivation. In open ground, where the area allows the plant to develop properly and there is enough sun, gardeners rarely think about carefully shaping the bush, but a number of operations to remove stepsons must be carried out:

1. The first relatively painless operation on an eggplant bush is carried out when it grows to 30 cm. The top of the main stem is pinched, which stimulates the formation of side shoots and the formation of a real bush.
2. Stepchildren are planted a second time when too many side shoots grow and their number has to be normalized. You cannot leave more than five pieces - the plant will not have enough strength for them.

When pinching manually (with fingers or pruning shears, whichever is more convenient), remove excess lateral processes or stepsons (stems growing from the axils of the leaves). This operation allows the plant to save energy and direct it to the formation and growth of fruits. If pinching is not carried out at all, an abundant green mass may grow, but the fruits will remain small and unripe. Usually they “walk” through the bushes once a week, breaking out the shoots before they grow more than 5 cm.

If the shoots clearly tend to grow in length, and the fruits on them have already formed in sufficient quantities, the tops of the shoots are also pinched, stopping their growth. In this case, the bush will redirect the nutrients to the development of ovaries.

If fruits have already formed on the eggplant bush, pinch the tops of the shoots, stopping their growth

All “green” operations on eggplants are stopped a month before the end of the season: further pinching is pointless, because healing the wounds also requires energy, and closer to autumn they should be used to ripen the crop.

Video: pinching eggplants

Features of growing eggplants in open ground in the regions

In different regions, the possibility of growing eggplants depends mainly on the number of warm summer days. Therefore, the variety and place for planting (a garden bed or a greenhouse) are chosen according to the weather.

Moscow region

In the Moscow region, climatic conditions cannot be considered optimal for eggplants: the duration of the climatic summer here does not exceed 90 days. There is also little solar radiation: up to 2/3 of the light is absorbed by clouds. The humus layer in the soils is also insufficient, although this, of course, can be corrected by additional application organic fertilizers. Only the soils of the very south of the Moscow region are sufficiently fertile.

Among the promising varieties and hybrids for the region are the following:

• Giselle F1,
• Agate F1,
• Alyonka.

Photo gallery: the best varieties of eggplant for the Moscow region

The eggplant variety Agat F1 sets fruit well even with sudden changes in temperature. The early-ripening eggplant variety Alyonka is suitable for growing in risky farming areas Giselle F1 - an early-ripening, cold-resistant, high-yielding hybrid of eggplants with compact bushes

Varieties zoned for North-West Russia are also doing well. Difficulties arise when growing tall eggplants, so proper plant formation is of great importance. The warmest areas are allocated for beds, but eggplants are still initially grown under light film covers. The shelter is periodically placed on the beds in the summer, if the temperature drops below 15 o C.

Eggplants in Siberia

Summer in many regions of Siberia, although warm, is short, so you can try to grow the earliest ripening eggplants in open ground, but first, of course, the seedlings are planted under temporary shelters. The selection of varieties must be taken very seriously; the most suitable are:

• Purple miracle
• Nutcracker,
• Robin Hood,
• Siberian early ripening.

They have time to ripen and easily tolerate temporary cold spells. There are also varieties developed directly at Siberian research institutes, for example, Globus. And although it produces only 3-4 fruits per bush, the fruits are very large and tasty.

Photo gallery: the best varieties of eggplant for Siberia

The eggplant variety Globus has unusual shape fruits that really look like a globe It takes only 45 days from planting seedlings to technical ripeness of Nutcracker F1 eggplant fruits Robin Hood eggplant bushes reach 1 m in height
The eggplant variety Violet miracle has a long period of transition from technical ripeness of the fruit to biological ripeness. The low, compact bush of the Siberian early ripening eggplant gives a rich harvest even in Siberian conditions

IN Lately Film in shelters is replaced with acrylic materials: they are easier to handle, they allow air and moisture to pass through and better regulate heat. Without any shelter, eggplants can only be left for the two warmest months.

Video: Siberian eggplant harvest

Ukraine

Almost throughout the entire territory of Ukraine, growing eggplants does not cause problems. Only the very north of the country is somewhat similar in climate to the Moscow region, and even then it is a little warmer there. In Ukraine, most varieties and hybrids of eggplant grow well in open ground.

In the southern regions, special attention has to be paid to irrigation; when solving this problem, the yields are obtained as high as possible. In addition, the plants are fed every 2–3 weeks, each time increasing the dose of fertilizer. In the southernmost regions, it is possible to grow eggplants without seedlings, by directly sowing the seeds in the garden in mid-April. In the north of the country there is not always enough light and warmth, so they are limited to early ripening varieties.

Suitable eggplant varieties for Ukraine:

• Epic F1,
• Albatross,
• Globular.

Photo gallery: the best varieties of eggplant for Ukraine

The Epic F1 eggplant variety is famous for its high yields. The Albatross eggplant variety reaches technical ripeness in 110–116 days.
Spherical eggplant variety - mid-season, fruit weight reaches 700 g

Sowing seeds into the ground is unacceptable here, and seedlings are planted on ridges with added biofuel (manure, grass, straw). In some cases, light shelters are used temporarily.

Belarus

The Belarusian climate is very similar to that of the Moscow region, although somewhat milder. It is impossible to grow late varieties of eggplant here without a greenhouse, and the crop cannot be kept in open ground for more than 100 days. Eggplants are planted as seedlings, the seeds for growing which are sown at home or in a greenhouse at the very beginning of spring. Popular varieties:

• Baikal F1,
• Black handsome man
• Swan.

Photo gallery: the best varieties of eggplant for Belarus

The flesh of the Baikal F1 eggplant fruit is dense, light green in color, without bitterness. The Lebediny variety eggplant really resembles a beautiful white swan in color. A short bush of eggplant. The handsome black one brings the harvest on the 115–120th day.

Next to the eggplant plantings, corn, sunflowers, and peas are sown, acting as curtains for protection from the winds.

It is known that Belarus is a republic specializing in potatoes. In this regard, the problem of the Colorado potato beetle, which also loves eggplants, is acute - we constantly have to carry out an intensified fight against these pests. As a preventive measure, ordinary wood ash is used, which is added to eggplants in increased quantities.

Many people fell in love with the unusual taste of eggplants. wide choose which are presented in grocery stores. But every summer resident wants to feast on this representative of the nightshade family with own garden bed. However, growing eggplants and caring for them in open ground has subtleties that are worth getting acquainted with before getting started.

Eggplant varieties for open ground

Today, breeders have developed many varieties of various colors: traditional blue, striped, red, orange and green varieties. Their taste qualities very similar, but for decoration festive table usage multi-colored palette- this is an excellent solution.

Vegetable growers opt for varieties that have proven themselves to be high-yielding and universal for different agroclimatic cultivation zones.

Black handsome.

A popular high-yielding variety in areas with hot summers. Among the advantages are: weight of 200 g, excellent taste without bitterness, resistance to disease and suitability for long-term storage.

Diamond.

The variety, recognized by many gardeners for its delicate taste, has cylindrical fruits weighing 100–200 g and a maximum length of 20 cm. The vegetable is colored in the traditional purple color.

Albatross.

It is also a high-yielding variety, the blue-violet fruits of which have a pleasant-tasting pulp without a bitter aftertaste. The vegetable is distinguished by its shortened shape, reminiscent of a pear, and its weight of 450 g.

Epic.

Hybrid, early dates the maturation of which makes it possible to cultivate it in different agricultural zones, also demonstrates high level productivity and resistance to a wide range of diseases.

Basic requirements for growing

Although the plant belongs to the Solanaceae family, the requirements for its cultivation are not similar to the rules for growing tomatoes, peppers and other representatives.

• Eggplants need more heat: a decrease in temperature below 20°C leads to the cessation of plant pollination and fruit development.
• Return frosts are detrimental to crops.
• Moisture deficiency provokes the fall of flowers and ovaries, and also causes the formation of ugly fruits.
• The plant requires bright, but not prolonged lighting - a maximum of 12 hours.
• Light and fertile soil is the key to a good harvest.

Growing eggplants: planting and care in open ground. Eggplant is a nightshade crop. This is a very tasty and healthy crop. Proper cultivation of eggplants can provide the gardener good harvest. And after ripening, it is used for cooking, canning or selling.

The article will describe in detail how to grow eggplants in open ground, from planning seedlings to harvesting and storing the crop.

Features of growing eggplant

Like any other garden crop, eggplants require certain conditions for growth and development.

Temperature environment should not fall below +18 degrees

• The ambient temperature should not fall below +18 degrees during the growing season of the crop. Otherwise, growth stops.
• Return frosts and significant cold snaps can destroy the entire crop. They are especially dangerous for young seedlings, since they are the weakest and most susceptible to any weather changes.
• Daylight hours should range between 8-12 hours. Southern varieties need more light than those bred in the middle and northern regions. It is very important to control this point, and here it is worth noting that it is the greenhouse cultivation of eggplants that simplifies the process, since artificial lighting can be easily installed in greenhouses.
• Culture grows on any land, but highest yields They are always collected exclusively from plants grown on fertile and light soil.

Compliance with all these conditions, or at least most of them, can provide the gardener with maximum yield.

Where to plant eggplants?

The first thing you need to decide on when growing eggplant is the location. Typically, gardeners plan their plots in the winter, simply by drawing them on a piece of paper - this makes the task easier in the fall. Eggplants need a bright and draft-free place if they are planted in open ground. To plant in a greenhouse you just need good soil.

To plant in a greenhouse you just need good soil.

As stated above, eggplants love light soil, so they will grow on loam and sandy loam soil without problems. In all other cases, you need to use cunning techniques.

• If the soil is heavy, it should be diluted with humus, river sand, and peat. These substances will loosen the soil.
• Turf and humus are usually added to peat soil in equal parts.
• Sandy soil is light, but not nutritious, so it is not suitable for eggplants. Its quality indicators can be improved by adding peat, sawdust and clay soil.

Fertilizer must be applied very carefully to the ground for planting eggplants. Fresh manure is acceptable only for autumn plowing. In the spring you can take humus or mineral fertilizers.

Since this crop, even in hot regions, is usually grown by seedlings, the soil needs to be fertilized in the fall so that it freezes well over the winter and mixes with fertilizers. Drip 30 cm deep; in addition to manure, you can add superphosphate or potassium sulfate in granules.

Eggplants can be grown near tomatoes, sweet and hot peppers, but they are not planted after all these crops, as well as potatoes. But after carrots, onions, early cabbage, peas, and watermelons, they grow well.

When to plant eggplants?

The timing of planting eggplants largely depends on the location, climate, and variety.

Timing of sowing seeds

• In unheated greenhouses, the deadline may be early May.
• In heated greenhouses, planting is carried out already in mid-April.
• IN open ground It is worth planting the crop in early May only in hot regions or under film.
• Closer to the beginning of summer, you can safely and without constructing a shelter, plant eggplants in any climatic region and in any area (greenhouse, open ground). The temperature at this time is more than acceptable for them.
• If a gardener sows seeds in the ground, then this should be done when upper layer The soil will warm up to 15 degrees above zero.

How to prepare eggplant seedlings?

Growing eggplants in open ground, and sometimes in a greenhouse, usually begins with harvesting seedlings. It is prepared from the beginning of spring. It is not difficult to do, but you need to pay close attention to the sprouts, monitor their condition, so that if something happens, you can correct the situation in time.

Growing eggplants in open ground begins with harvesting seedlings

1. The first thing you need to prepare seedlings is soil. This can be a store-bought mixture for seedlings or specially prepared soil - humus, sand and turf in a ratio of 3:1:5. You can also add mineral fertilizers (potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen) there.
2. Before sowing, seeds are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes and then kept in hot water(+50 degrees) twenty minutes. After such hardening, they are placed on cotton cloth, wrapped and watered with warm water. After this, the rag is placed on a saucer, covered with film and placed in a warm place. After 1-2 days, the seeds will hatch and can be sown.
3. Sown planting material in single file, but not very thickly. Keep a distance of 5-10 cm between rows.
4. When the seeds are sown, the box is covered with film and placed in a room with a temperature of +25 degrees.
5. When seedlings emerge, they are moved to a warm windowsill and the temperature is reduced to +15 during the day and to +13 at night for 5-7 days, and only then raised again to +18...+25 degrees. It is at this temperature that eggplant seedlings should be grown before transplanting into open ground.
6. Fertilizing is applied 2 times. The first time a solution of superphosphate, urea and potassium salt is introduced (but the solution should be very weak) after 2 leaves appear. The sprouts are fed a second time 2 weeks after the first feeding with the same product.
7. 14 days before planting seedlings in open soil or a greenhouse, the seedlings are hardened off. They must be taken out onto the balcony or street during the day, and left with a window at night.

Transplantation to a permanent place is carried out only when the sprouts have 5 true leaves and when they reach 10 cm in height. However, if the threat of return frosts has not passed, you should wait to plant until warmer days arrive.

Preparing the bed for planting eggplant

The land for growing eggplants is usually fertilized in the fall, as mentioned above, but if for some reason this could not be done, the procedure is postponed to spring. 2-3 weeks before planting the seedlings, dig up the ground, adding urea, superphosphate and humus. The quantity depends on the quality and type of soil. Usually all the required proportions are indicated on fertilizer packages.

After digging, the earth needs to be loosened, leveled, and all large tubercles broken up. This is done approximately 1 week before planting the crop or 2-3 days (as time allows).

The beds are made 30 cm high and up to 1 meter wide. There should be approximately 30-40 cm of free space between them

The beds are made 30 cm high and up to 1 meter wide. There should be approximately 30-40 cm of free space between them. Thanks to this height, the roots of the seedlings will not freeze, and the crop will be able to develop faster. Any length of the bed is acceptable - it all depends on the preferences, needs of the gardener and the size of the plot itself.

After defining the boundaries, you need to level the ground again and water it generously with Effekton fertilizer. You can use a hot mullein solution instead. However, if the land was fertilized in the spring, it is not worth using fertilizer, since the soil will already be fertile.

The day before the transplant procedure, the seedlings are watered as best as possible. Watering is also done right before removing the sprouts from the container (this simplifies the procedure).

Planting eggplants in open ground

The day before the transplant procedure, the seedlings are watered as best as possible.

Eggplants are grown in open ground or greenhouses in holes. Holes are made in the garden bed at intervals of 40-50 cm. The more compact the bush is, the smaller the distance can be made. Each hole is watered with water and one sprout should be planted in this mud. After planting, the soil is compacted and you can immediately lay a layer of mulch (peat, chopped straw) around the seedlings.

If a gardener uses the seed method of growing eggplants, then this can be done using the row method and then thinning out the seedlings. The second option is to immediately plant the planting material at a distance of 10-20 cm and after the sprouts appear and grow, plant them at a distance of 40-50 cm. This is the only way to ensure good filling of the area allocated for the crop, because many seeds will not germinate, and some sprouted ones may wither.

How to properly care for eggplants?

Growing eggplants involves ongoing care after them. Otherwise, plants that are sensitive to changes in climate and conditions will wither, and the farmer will not receive a harvest.

• If eggplants grow in open ground, it is worth first stretching a transparent film or white agrofibre over them on wire arches. Such a shelter is removed around mid-June, but throughout the summer it is worth monitoring the weather and in case of significant cold snaps, build a shelter for eggplants again, even if the fruits are already ripening on them.
• To make sprouts grow faster, they are often loosened. It is loosening that contributes to the rapid growth of eggplants in the first 14 days after planting in a permanent place. Loosening is carried out all summer, about once a week.

Growing eggplants requires constant care for them.

• Watering begins 2 weeks after transplanting into a greenhouse or open ground. After the plants have taken root, they need to be watered so that the soil is slightly moist all the time. Lack of moisture can lead to deformation of fruits and premature wilting of plants, and, that is, a reduction in yield.
• The first feeding should be done 7-10 days after planting the seedlings. Instead of watering at this time, spraying is carried out in the evening. You can add urea to this water; it will nourish weakened sprouts. The second time feeding when growing eggplants is done 20 days after the first, mineral fertilizers or manure solution ( bird droppings). The third feeding occurs at the beginning of fruiting and for this you can use the same solution of bird droppings, manure or complex mineral fertilizer.
• An important aspect of care is the removal of weeds, since it is through them that diseases and pests are most often transmitted to cultivated plants.
• An additional point of care, but not the main one (it may not be carried out), is hilling. Thanks to hilling with early age Eggplants develop adventitious roots, and the yield increases by 1.5-2 times.

When to harvest?

Ripe fruits can be harvested 30 days after flowering

Proper cultivation eggplants in open ground or a greenhouse can provide a gardener big harvest. Ripe fruits can be harvested 30 days after flowering. By this time, they should have reached impressive sizes, become glossy, and acquired a skin color that is natural for a particular variety.

If eggplants become overripe, they will take on a different color and their taste will deteriorate significantly. It will become more bitter and the skin will be very rough. Eggplants are harvested by simply cutting them with a knife or pruning shears along with the stalk, although they are often simply torn off - they usually come off well, like sweet peppers.

VIDEO - 10 commandments for growing eggplants

It is important to choose the right time for transplantation. Eggplants are very heat-loving, the soil should warm up to 12-13 degrees. Usually the soil reaches this temperature in the second half of May. In accordance with folk signs, the ideal time for transplanting eggplants into beds and cold greenhouses will be the season of mass flowering of dandelions.

If the cold spring is prolonged, the soil heating process can be accelerated by covering the beds with a double layer polyethylene film or opaque non-woven material. When moving plants into open ground, you can take more drastic measures by building a temporary shelter over the beds. Arcs of strong wire are stuck into the ground, over which a plastic film. In such an improvised greenhouse, seedlings feel comfortable and are not afraid of sudden frosts. Seedlings can be planted in heated greenhouses all year round.

Most varieties are ready for transplanting at the age of 20-25 days after emergence. In accordance with this, the time for sowing seeds is calculated. If you plan to grow eggplants in open ground, they are replanted in the second half of April and transplanted in early June. For planting under film, seeds are sown in late March-early April, moving young plants to the beds on May 10-15. For film and glazed greenhouses, seedlings are grown from the end of March, and on April 15 they are ready to move to their permanent place of residence.

When choosing a planting time, it is necessary to take into account the variety of eggplant. For better fruiting some hybrids are recommended to be planted 5-10 days later than the specified dates. More adult seedlings takes root better and forms ovaries faster. It is worth focusing on appearance young plants. Ideal seedlings are strong, with thick, juicy stems and bright, non-drooping greenery. It is desirable to have 4-5 true leaves.

Stems should not be too elongated. If transplanting into beds is delayed, it is recommended to treat seedlings in containers with special preparations that slow down growth. Light compositions Campozan or TUR, safe for plants, are suitable. The preparations do not slow down the formation of buds and the formation of ovaries, the stems of eggplants become stronger, and the appearance of the seedlings improves.

Soil preparation

Before moving the seedlings, the soil must be prepared. Z the earth is thoroughly loosened, plant remains and small debris are removed from it. A portion of humus or peat is added to the soil. The lighter the soil, the higher the eggplant yield. In a greenhouse, it is recommended to update the top layer of soil annually. For greater safety, it can be spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate. It is advisable to use the same soil that was used for growing seedlings; the adaptation of young plants will be more successful.

It is better to prepare the holes before planting the plants. A portion of rotted manure is added to each and sprinkled with a light layer of peat. It's good to spill holes hot water and let them cool. The distance between bushes varies from 40 to 50 cm and depends on the type of eggplant. More compact plants can be planted more densely. Row spacing of at least 70 cm in width is required.

Transplanting eggplants: step-by-step steps

Transplanting young plants best done in the morning, in warm sunny weather.

1. Cups with eggplant seedlings are carefully turned over. You cannot pull the stems; the seedlings are fragile and easily injured. The plant is removed together in a lump of earth entwined with roots. There is no need to shake off the soil. Seedlings grown in peat pots or tablets cannot be removed from their containers.
2. The seedling moves into the hole. The depth should correspond to the earthen coma; it is undesirable to crush the roots. The seedling is buried down to the cotyledon leaves, the surface of the earthen ball is covered with 2-3 cm of fresh soil. Plants should not be buried too deeply, as this may cause the appearance of a black leg. It is also not a good idea to leave roots on the surface.
3. The soil around the plant is carefully squeezed by hand. It should not be compacted tightly, but further erosion of the soil should not be allowed. Each seedling is watered with warm, settled water (at least 1-2 liters).
4. The top of the soil is mulched. You can use humus, peat or straw. But whiter convenient option– cover the ground with a dark opaque film or other light-proof non-woven material, in which holes are cut for plants. Such a shelter will protect the eggplants from a sudden drop in temperature, reduce the adaptation time and protect them from weeds.

Attention! Immediately after transplanting, the eggplants are tied up. Perfect option- rope trellis. A stand is strengthened above the bed, to which strong, not very thin ropes are attached.

Planting eggplant seeds: preparation of material

You can do without growing seedlings at home by sowing eggplant seeds directly into the ground. Seeds pre-move, empty and deformed are rejected. Some gardeners prefer to sow dry seeds, believing that newly emerged sprouts are easily injured. Others soak the seed in small quantities warm water or wrap them in a damp cloth to swell. The choice of method depends on the type of eggplant and personal preference.

Before sowing open beds seeds can be hardened. They are wrapped in a damp cloth, wait until the sprouts appear, and then send the seed to the lower chamber of the refrigerator for a day. This procedure increases the immunity of plants, making them immune to adverse weather conditions.

Another tried and tested method is warming up the seeds. It takes place at a temperature of 60 degrees and lasts about 2 hours. Then the seed is placed in an aqueous solution of manganese sulfate, potassium nitrate and superphosphate for 12 hours.

Sowing in the ground: step-by-step instructions

It is better to plant eggplant seeds in the second half of May-early June.

1. The beds are being prepared, cleaned of debris and fertilized with a generous portion of humus.
2. The soil needs to be loosened well and make furrows 5-7 cm deep.
3. In them seeds are sown at a distance of 10-20 cm. The distance depends on the variety; usually more accurate data is indicated on the seed packaging.

Reference! Early-ripening eggplants can be planted more densely; late-ripening ones need free space.

Another option is also possible.

1. In the ground holes are made, the same as when planting seedlings.
2. The distance between the holes is about 20 cm, row spacing - at least 40 cm. A little rotted manure is laid out in each hole and sprinkled with a layer of peat.
3. 4-5 seeds are sown.

This option is convenient when growing on trellises.

Furrows or holes warm, settled water from a watering can. Then they are sprinkled with soil and lightly compacted with palms. The substrate layer should be very thin, no more than 1 cm. Some gardeners prefer not to cover the seeds, leaving them on the surface. In this case, the surface of the soil with crops is covered with film or glass. Plantings can be insulated by covering them with straw mats.