With the beginning of the spring season, the owners of garden plots have a lot of worries. It's time to prepare a place for. Then, in order to obtain rich harvests, it is necessary to properly plant seedlings or seeds, and then carefully care for the plants during the summer.
For all these processes, certain tools are used that can be purchased at specialized stores or made independently. Some of them are very unusual, and are the fruits of a creative approach. experienced gardeners to difficult work on the ground. How you can make non-standard, convenient and effective garden tools with your own hands, in order to greatly facilitate the cultivation of the land, will be discussed in this publication.
Where to begin?
As is known, almost all garden tools It is made of metal, so the work will require a number of tools and, of course, the ability to use them. If there are no problems with this issue, it remains only to prepare them for work. For those who are just starting their journey in self-manufacturing metal products, it makes sense to present a list of the minimum required:
- Usually, every economic owner of a private house has this device, since there are always a lot of works on the site for which it is necessary.
- Before starting welding of metal parts, it is necessary to clean their edges, and after the work is done, remove the remaining slag. For these processes, hard steel brushes are used, which can be manual or in the form of attachments for a drill or grinder.
- A slag hammer will be required to remove slag from the seam.
- Chisels, stamps and a hammer are used to brand seams and cut out defective places, as well as to remove frozen metal splashes.
- Templates, ruler, square, scriber, tape measure, as well as other measuring tools are used in assembly operations, in preparing parts of a future structure for welding.
- A grinder-"grinder" with circles for metal will be needed for cutting parts. It is also needed for final finishing - cleaning seams, sharpening cutting planes.
- Personal protection kit. These are a welding mask, gloves and a welder's suit, instead of which clothes made of dense natural fabric can be used.
- Metal table or goats for welding.
Welding operations require a certain amount of experience
The acquisition of the apparatus does not at all make its owner a welder. It is necessary to "fill your hand" well, starting with the simplest seams. And we must be prepared for the fact that it will not turn out right away, patience, diligence, perseverance are required. - read in a special publication of our portal.
If these tools are available, and experience in welding work enough, it's time to choose a product for manufacturing. A drawing of a future fixture can be found or developed independently, to the best of your ability.
Some useful ideas as will be suggested below. They can be taken as a basis and, if desired, improved according to your own understanding.
Custom garden tool available for DIY
Today, manufacturers of gardening tools, given the hard work of tillage, have developed and offer the consumer a considerable number of different devices that not only dig up, but also loosen the ground, while removing weeds. Such tools can significantly reduce the time for preparing the beds, save your back from excessive stress.
Some of these "small-mechanization" tools can be made independently, saving a decent amount.
Miracle Shovel
This tool appeared in commercials for manufacturers garden tools recently. And at the same time, many craftsmen have been using such a device for more than a year, having made it on their own. And, I must say, only praising its efficiency and convenience.
As soon as they don’t call this invention - both “miracle pitchforks” and a cultivator cultivator. But no matter what name is attributed to him, the main thing is that it greatly facilitates the work of the gardener.
There are several varieties of "miracle shovels", differing from each other in their design. But they all work on the same principle. Therefore, you can choose the option that seems easier to perform and convenient to use.
The first version of the "miracle shovel"
This is the most popular version of this tool. Its in ready-made can be found in specialized stores or at gardening fairs. Before you start making such a model yourself, you should carefully consider its design and understand how it works.
The shovel consists of the following parts:
- Working forks.
- Front stop.
- Back stop.
- Front stop forks.
- Tuleyka for installation and fastening of the handle.
- Shank.
- Lever mechanism.
The "operating manual" of this tool can be presented as follows:
- The shovel-ripper is taken by the handle and installed on the soil on the front stop.
- Further, the working forks are stuck into the soil so that the back gauge also touches the ground.
- Then the stalk of the shovel goes down with a little effort on itself. Due to this, the working forks will begin to move upward, raising the soil layers.
- The forks located on the front stop, passing between the teeth of the working forks, will loosen the ground. At the same time, the soil layer does not have to be turned over, so that the fertile layer will not be disturbed in it.
- After that, the shovel moves to the next section, and the operations are repeated.
This version of the shovel is designed for digging the soil to a maximum depth equal to the length of the working forks. Accordingly, the width of the processed strip will be equal to the width of the working forks. In the example shown, the working fork tines are 250 mm long and 430 mm wide.
This figure shows the "miracle shovel" disassembled, and the arrows show the process of its assembly. This visual instruction will help to assemble any version of the “miracle shovel” design.
In order to make such a tool, you need to prepare the following material:
- To make a working pitchfork, you will need:
- a piece of steel corner 20 × 20 × 4 mm or a profile pipe 20 × 20 mm, 460 mm long;
- a piece of a round pipe ½ inch, 220 ÷ 250 mm long - for making a tuleyka;
- two metal plates 100 × 40 × 4 mm in size - for fixing the body on the frame of the front stop;
- six pieces of steel round (Ø 8 mm) or, which would be better - a square bar with a section of 8 × 8 mm, 240 mm long.
- For the manufacture of an emphasis frame with front forks, it will be necessary to prepare the following parts:
- for supporting so-called skis, two pieces of a round pipe with an outer diameter of 10 mm and a length of 710 mm are required;
- the cross member on which the working forks will be attached will require a piece of a profile pipe 460 mm long and 20 × 20 mm in cross section;
- the second cross member, on which the teeth of the front forks will be welded, is made of a pipe with a diameter of 12 mm;
- a pipe 170 mm long and 12 mm in diameter for connecting the frame with the supporting heel of the structure;
- for the support part, you will need a corner measuring 15 × 15 × 4 × 330 mm;
- six pieces of a round rod 200 mm long, similar to those used for working forks.
- reliable wooden stalk.
Work on the manufacture of a miracle shovel is carried out in the following order:
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to mark and cut with a grinder parts for the design of the shovel. It is best to prepare the working fork elements first, and then the base frame. Further, all parts will be prepared according to the drawing during installation work. |
 | First of all, the base frame and front forks are made. In order to make a pitchfork, the pipe is marked for holes, which must be located in increments of 65 mm. Non-through holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the marked centers. Then pieces of reinforcement are installed in them, which will become the teeth of the front forks. |
 | Further, “skis” are prepared for welding, that is, the side parts of the support frame. One edge of these skids should have a slight curve for better gliding on the ground. In order for the pipe to retain the given shape when using the tool, an incision is made on it, departing from one of the edges of 100 mm, due to which the necessary curvature is given to the pipe. Then the incision is boiled, which will give rigidity to the parts. You can do without a notch by shaping the “skis” on a pipe bender. |
 | The next step is to make marks on the profile pipe for welding the "ears" - these are two metal plates measuring 300 × 20 × 4 mm. Holes are drilled in them for the hinged connection of the support frame with the working forks. Instead of plates, which are quite difficult to weld, steel angles with holes of the required size can be used. |
 | The distance between the "ears" should be 100 mm. |
 | The next step is to weld the back stop to the profile pipe, on the other side of it, exactly in the middle at an angle of 120 degrees, consisting of a round pipe with a cross member made of a metal corner. |
 | Now that all the details of the support frame are ready, they are assembled into a common structure by welding. It is very important to set the crossbars of the frame in relation to it at a right angle, otherwise the shovel will not function well enough. |
 | Next, a shell for a working fork is made, it must be welded exactly in the middle of the corner on which the teeth will be fixed. The pipe can be narrowed on one side, giving it an oval shape, as the master did in this case, or you can leave the diameter the same along the entire length. Stepping back from the upper edge of the body of 50 mm, places are marked for fixing metal plates, in which holes are pre-drilled to create a swivel joint with the “ears” welded on the support frame. The teeth are welded to the corner later, after fitting the mount. |
 | When the tuleyka is ready, they try it on the supporting part of the shovel, temporarily screwing it onto the bolts. In order for the lever mechanism to function without jamming, it is necessary to select bolts that are threaded only at the end. |
 | If everything works as it should, it remains only to try on and weld the teeth to the corner of the working forks. They are placed in such a way that they are between the teeth of the front forks and do not come into contact with them during work. The distance between the teeth of the working part of the shovel should also be 65 mm. |
 | But before welding the teeth on the corner, they must be prepared, as they must have a slight bend and pointed ends. There are two ways to sharpen the ends of square rods - forging or neat trimming and stripping. For forging, the metal will have to be red-hot, and then attached to the ends on the anvil desired shape with a hammer. This is quite skillful work, in addition, not everyone has a special furnace for heating metal. Therefore, it remains to sharpen the ends of the teeth mechanically, that is, carefully cut off a part of the metal on one side of the square, and then clean the cut points. You can turn to a turner who will work on a lathe. |
 | You can make a smooth bend at the ends of the teeth using a pipe bender, using one template. If this device is not available, then this work will have to be done with a vice and a hammer. However, it must be remembered that the bend on all teeth must be the same, so it may be better to carry out this process after welding the teeth to the corner. The fork can also be bent with a hammer, laying them with teeth on a template. |
 | As a result of the performed operations, a comfortable, relatively light construction is obtained. Moreover, the “miracle shovel” will only need to be brought to the place of work and taken away at the end of the place of work. The rest of the time it will not be necessary to lift it, since it will move along the soil with the help of “ski” runners. |
The manufacturer of this "miracle shovel" honestly admits that, having made it in the fall, he tried to dig up the wet earth, and he did not succeed. It turned out that the earth was stuck between the teeth, and the runners were moving heavily on wet ground.
Therefore, given his mistakes, you should not experiment with the tool immediately after the snow melts. Dry soil is excellently dug up with this tool, even if it is already “obscenely” overgrown with grass. The working forks pick up and pull out the weeds, while the front forks free them from the soil. But in order to remove the grass from the dug-up beds, you still have to bend down.
Prices for miracle shovels
miracle shovel
Second option
In addition to this model, there are other models of "miracle shovels". For example, for older people who like to tinker in the garden, there is an option developed by the Altai craftsman V. Popenko.
This design has a comfortable high U-shaped handle that allows you to work without bending down. And if necessary, you can lean on such a handle by sticking teeth into the ground.
The disadvantage of this “miracle shovel” option is the lack of good loosening of the soil. Therefore, it is additionally necessary to break the clods and grind them with a rake.
Third option
Another design that can rather be called an improved pitchfork for digging the earth. But it will also make the job easier - due to the special support pedal installed on the handle. When the forks are driven into the ground, the pedal assists in applying proper foot force. And after the pedal rests on the ground, it becomes a fulcrum for the application of force through the lever-handle hinged to it. This greatly facilitates the lifting of the excavated earth.
A similar version of the tool can be bought ready-made. But it’s easy to do otherwise - to purchase high-quality forks, and then improve them by adding a support pedal hinged to a clamp attached to the handle.
In the illustration above, not only is the design of the pedal clearly visible, but also the dimensions of all the parts necessary for the manufacture of the instrument are given.
Cultivator "Tornado"
Among gardeners, the Tornado cultivator began to enjoy wide popularity. It is actively advertised in TV and online stores. Indeed, the device is quite convenient and relatively compact. But not every Russian summer resident can afford to purchase this tool. Therefore, it is worth trying your hand at making it.
The design of the "Tornado" is simpler than the "miracle shovel" and works on the principle of a corkscrew mounted on a convenient stand with a horizontal crossbar handle.
If you decide to make a cultivator yourself, in order to simplify the task, you can use commercially produced pitchforks as a basis, which have a very affordable cost. The main thing is to choose a quality option when purchasing this tool. Today there are a lot of products on the market, the metal of which will not endure manipulations for alteration - steel does not stand up to criticism.
"Tornado" can be made immediately to your height, or you can make the handle adjustable. There are many options here. For example, Collet clamp with a threaded sleeve (but this is quite difficult to do on your own). Or a series of holes in the sliding part of the rack - this option is shown in the illustration below.
The “crab”, that is, the working part of the factory tool, is made by forging, so the teeth are resistant to bending. And if it is possible to make this part of the cultivator using the same technology, then it is better to choose this option. To do this, you need to heat the workpieces and use a hammer to give them the desired shape and direction. It must be said right away that not every master can do this process.
As you can see in the drawings and photos, the teeth of the "crab" have arcuate bends, are attached to the base in one direction, and in finished product they form the inner space of an oval or round shape.
The teeth are welded in such a way that they form a kind of square around the rack. That is, the fixation of each of them does not occur pointwise, but along the entire fold line of the part, which forms one side of the square. You can first weld a square steel plate 5 ÷ 6 mm thick to the lower end of the pipe-rack, and then weld the teeth to the sides of this square - it seems easier this way. Thanks to the continuous penetration of the teeth, the “crab” withstands high loads during tool operation.
The teeth of the “crab” are narrowed, thanks to which they easily drive into the soil and do not deform. But there is no special need to hone them - they will cope with the task anyway. The height of the "crab" can be from 180 to 200 mm. Accordingly, the loosening of the soil occurs to the same depth.
"Tornado" is often called a root remover, because when digging and loosening the soil, weeds are simultaneously removed from it along with their root system.
The principle of operation of the cultivator is to install the “crab” perpendicularly on the soil surface, followed by turning the tool 60 degrees while pressing down. Therefore, an important point is the shape and length of the handle, as it should work as a convenient and effective lever.
Prices for the Tornado cultivator
Other tillage tools Tornado
Models with different handle shapes are produced, therefore, with self-production, you can choose best option. So, the handle is made straight with a slight bend towards itself, 750 mm long. Or, as already mentioned and shown above in the drawing, you can use the steering wheel from an old bicycle as a handle.
In a word, a skilled craftsman is quite capable of making this tool as convenient as possible for himself.
Fokine flat cutter
Another device that solves several problems is a flat cutter, invented by V.V. Fokin.
This simple tool can do the following:
- Efficient removal of weeds from beds. Thanks to its compact dimensions and ergonomic shape, this tool can easily pass between cultivated plants without damaging them.
- The loosening of the beds can be done at different depths, since not only the side, but also the front part of the tool is working.
- Hilling plants is also within the power of this small tool.
- Forming beds and maintaining their shape during the season, as well as much more.
Learn about available options arrangement, from our new article on our portal.
For the manufacture of a flat cutter, a metal strip 3 mm thick is required, and all other required dimensional parameters are presented in the drawing. The edges of the plate must be well processed, cleared of bumps and burrs. And in the upper part, drill two or three holes to fix the nozzle on the handle. Then, the plate will need to be bent properly. In order for the metal to bend better, it must be heated, for example, with a blowtorch.
To give the metal strip the required shape, several successive bends are made. The order of their execution is shown in the illustration below.
After the metal has cooled down, the edges of the working area of the flat cutter must be properly sharpened on both sides.
After that, the flat cutter can be mounted on a wooden handle, the material for which can be bought quite inexpensively at hardware store. The bar must be well cut, chamfered, deburred, sanded with sandpaper. After that, holes are drilled to secure the tool itself, if the connection was planned to be screwed. Many owners are limited to fixing a flat cutter to the handle with self-tapping screws.
The tool is quite light in weight, so it is perfect for gardening for people of all ages.
Fokin flat cutter prices
Fokine flat cutter
It is also easy to use a flat cutter. To do this, the sharpened side of the plate is inserted into the soil to a depth of 40 mm, set parallel to the surface. Then, with little effort, they begin loosening or cutting the root system of weeds.
With proper manufacture and operation, a flat cutter plate sharpened on both sides is capable of self-sharpening. If, nevertheless, the tool becomes dull, then periodically it can be sharpened with a grinder or file.
Equipment for planting potatoes
To facilitate the planting of the most popular root crop, craftsmen invented special devices, the so-called planters and markers. In addition to them, mechanized planting devices are also made, but they are more suitable for large areas. Manual planters are suitable for any size garden, greatly simplify and speed up the planting process.
The simplest marker device for quick planting potatoes
Markers are designed to create depressions in the dug up soil for throwing potatoes into them. They can be single, double or triple.
The presence of two or three cone heads for creating holes not only speeds up the work, but also allows you to maintain the evenness of the planting rows. So, in order to plant a sufficiently large area of \u200b\u200bthe garden, joint actions of only two people will be required. One forms the holes with a marker, and the second throws potato tubers into them and covers them with earth from above. The recesses themselves are small and neat, so you can fill them up by simply pushing the soil with your foot. Thus, there is no need to work with a shovel, digging and then filling wide furrows. As a result, the landing process is not accompanied by fatigue or even local back injury.
The device itself has a very simple design which can be easily made at home. This will require a frame with a comfortable handle on which cone markers are welded.
As a handle, you can use parts of the back of an old metal bed or a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm, placing plastic hand pads on it.
For the lower horizontal crossbar, on which the cones will be fixed by welding, a profile pipe is suitable, for example, 10 × 20 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm.
The cones are welded onto the crossbar at a distance of 450 mm from each other. On the protruding edge of the crossbar with the same distance from the nearest marker, you can simply weld a rod of reinforcement - it only acts as a guideline when maintaining the evenness of the row relative to the intended line or already planted rows.
A more complex version of the planter
Another, more difficult to manufacture version of the planter involves the simultaneous digging of a hole and planting a tuber.
How to make this design will be discussed further in the instruction table:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | For the manufacture of this planter model, a pipe segment with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 150 ÷ 200 mm is required. On the pipe on both sides, it is immediately necessary to make markings for the holes. Their centers should be located exactly opposite each other. Two holes will be drilled through them. |
 | To make it easier to drill the pipe, it is laid on convenient stand. In this case, a piece of rail is used as it. It perfectly fulfills the role of not only a stand, but also an anvil. Before starting drilling, holes are marked with a core, which will also facilitate drilling in a semi-circular surface. Holes are made at a distance of 10÷12 mm from the edge of the pipe and should have a diameter of 8÷10 mm, for bolts of the same size. |
 | For the manufacture of a conical detachable part of the planter, a small sheet of metal 1.5 mm thick is required. On the sheet, two triangles with a cut top are marked. The size of one part is 190÷200 mm in height, the base of the triangle is 160 mm and the width of the upper cut is 30 mm. The second part has the same height, but its base must be 180 mm long and the cut must be 20 mm. The lined parts must be carefully cut out with the help of a grinder. |
 | The result is two triangles with a cut top, from which it will be necessary to make a split cone. One side of this assembly will be fixed, and the other side will be able to move in a hinged mount. For the manufacture of the fixed part, a smaller part is used. |
 | To give the parts a semicircular shape, they must be bent. The work is best done on the anvil, but if it is not there, a section of the rail comes to the rescue again. Giving the necessary shape is carried out with an ordinary hammer, with which one or the other side of the part is knocked out. |
 | In the course of giving the parts the necessary bend, they are periodically fitted to the pipe. |
 | The part must be installed on the edge of the pipe and at the same time, its edges must be located at right angles to the cut of the pipe - this will turn out to be a half of the cone converging towards the center. In order to achieve such an installation of the part, it will be necessary to trim the edges in its lower part. To do this, holding the part in the required position, areas for trimming are outlined. |
 | Along the marking lines, the part is cut off with the help of a grinder. |
 | The fixed part of the planter cone should be in this position, since the second, movable half should close with it as tightly as possible. |
 | Just like the first part of the cone, the second, movable half of it is made from the prepared plate. Then it is fitted and adjusted. |
 | However, a more accurate adjustment can only be made after fixing the fixed part of the cone to the pipe. Therefore, it is welded to the base - the pipe. |
 | The illustration clearly shows that the corners of the movable side of the cone are on the pipe. It is from them that you need to get rid of, otherwise they will interfere with the opening of the planter. |
 | Before removing them, it is necessary to mark up, and then cut off the excess parts with the help of a grinder. If the fixed side of the product is installed and welded onto the wall of the pipe, then the movable part should bend around it, being a little on it from the outside, as it will open. |
 | As a result of the work done, it should turn out approximately as shown in this illustration. |
 | The next step is to install the hinge assembly, with which the movable part of the planter will open and close. To do this, you will need to prepare two plates - an “ear”, made of metal with a thickness of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm. In these parts, a hole of the same diameter is drilled as in the holes made earlier in the pipe walls. |
 | For screwing the "ears" to the pipe, bolts 8 ÷ 10 mm in diameter and 10 ÷ 15 mm long are used. It is better to grind their heads immediately so that they protrude as little as possible from the surface of the pipe. The bolts are inserted from the inside of the pipe, pass through it and the hole drilled in the “eye”, and are attracted by washers and nuts on top of it. |
 | The “ears” will have to be bent a little, giving mm the shape of the walls of the opening part of the cone, since they will be welded on them. |
 | Now the upper side of the "lugs" can be grabbed with welding points to the walls of the movable part of the cone. When fixing them, you may have to correct the closure of the two halves. |
 | Next comes the manufacture and welding of planter handles. This will require a pipe with a diameter of ½ inch, and the length should be comfortable for work. One end of the pipe is cut at an angle, as it will be fixed to the planter body. You can also choose the slope yourself, but in this case, the position of the handle relative to the body falls at an angle of about 20 degrees. |
 | The second handle is welded in the middle of the opening side of the cone in its upper part. When you press this handle, it, attracted to the pipe, will open the cone. Therefore, it is placed at an angle of 35 ÷ 40 degrees. |
 | If, when testing the planter, the handle welded to the pipe turns out to be not quite convenient, then its position can be corrected. |
 | To do this, an incision is made on its inner side, along which the pipe is bent at an angle to its welded part and is attracted closer to the planter body. Then, along the fold, the handle is boiled. |
 | Now the product is being tested again. In this case, the builder found that the planter was opening too wide, so a stop bolt had to be included in the design. It will limit the opening width of the cone, due to which the planted tuber or a glass of seeds will be covered with soil on its own when the planter is pulled out of the ground. |
 | To do this, a nut is welded to the handle, fixed on the movable side of the cone, into which the limiter bolt is screwed. |
 | Thus, when the handles are brought together, the bolt in the desired position will rest against the body pipe, preventing the planter cone from opening completely. By screwing and unscrewing this limiter, it will be possible to adjust the width of the hole at the planting depth. |
 | A plate is welded to the rear side of the pipe - a pedal, which is necessary to deepen the planter into the ground by transferring the force of the foot. Since a rather high load will fall on the pedal, the plate must be strengthened by welding a strut to it from below - a piece of reinforcement, the second end of which is welded to the planter body. |
This planter design is suitable not only for planting potatoes, but also for other plants that are planted in the form of bushes, seeds or bulbs. There are other options for such devices, but they all work on the same principle.
Devices for manual harvesting of root crops
There are not only devices for planting potatoes, but also "mechanisms" for its convenient and quick cleaning. So, using a manual digger, labor productivity can be almost doubled. This is due to the fact that, unlike a conventional shovel, the device captures the soil not from one, but from two sides at once, easily bringing tubers to the surface.
The digger has a not too complicated design, which can be assembled independently. In order to make such a tool, you will need to purchase a pair of ordinary pitchforks. In addition to them, for the formation of handles, two pieces of pipe with a diameter of 27 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm and a length of 720 ÷ 950 mm are required. And yet - a metal plate 5 mm thick, 50 mm wide and 330 mm long for the manufacture of the crossbar.
- Fork teeth.
- Crossbar.
- "Ears" welded to the pitchfork.
- Bolt M10.
- Potato digger handles.
The tool is made in the following order:
- Wooden cuttings are taken from the forks of the pitchfork.
- Under the shells, in the middle part of the forks, two “lugs” with a diameter of 11 ÷ 12 mm are welded at a distance of 55 mm. So that a crossbar freely stands between them.
- On the underside of the crossbar, along its short edges, tubes with a diameter of 10.5 mm are welded. Through them and the "lugs" mounted on the forks, a hinge bolt with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 70 mm will pass.
- Next, tool handles are made. The ends of the pipes intended for them must be bent so that they are comfortable to hold in your hands. And then it is recommended to put hose sections on the bent ends. So the hands will not slip during the work.
- And, finally, the prepared handles, after adjusting their configuration, are welded into the fork shells.
Everything, the design is ready to work. The forks of the digger are bred in an open position and set above the potato bush. Further, stepping on the crossbar, they drive the pitchfork into the ground. After that, the handles are spread apart, that is, the forks at the same time approach each other, lifting the captured soil with all its contents up. In this case, the teeth engage the root system and tubers of the bush. The digger, together with the captured crop, is raised to the surface, the loose soil crumbles, leaving the potatoes clean. In the process of digging potatoes with such a homemade digger, its tubers are minimally damaged, and the soil does not move.
It is not recommended to dig up potatoes with a digger (as, indeed, with a regular shovel) if the soil is very moist. The cleaning process in such conditions will be significantly complicated by the excessive weight and inconvenience of the tool due to sticky soil.
* * * * * * *
As can be seen from the foregoing, if the owner wishes and the tools are available, it is quite possible to make convenient equipment for gardening, planting and harvesting in a home workshop. This saves a lot of money. And especially - if the "stash" of the master has many materials necessary for work.
Variety examples shown homemade means"small mechanization" horticultural work is definitely not limited. Others can be found if desired. useful gadgets, and maybe even come up with some kind of improvement yourself. We will be glad if someone can share their experience on the pages of our portal.
In conclusion - an interesting video about another useful tool - a cultivator. Fire will be an excellent assistant during the period of regular weeding of beds from weeds.
Video: Homemade hand cultivator for fast and efficient weeding
Evgeny Sedov
When hands grow from the right place, life is more fun :)
Content
Cultivation is a method of processing the land layer without turning it over. Such shallow work of leveling, preparing for sowing, hilling potatoes, clearing weeds, harvesting can be facilitated by the use of hand cultivators. They will become indispensable assistants in small areas, in hard-to-reach places, when working in small greenhouses. If it is necessary to cultivate plots with an area of more than 3 acres, it makes sense to think about purchasing or creating a motor cultivator powered by electric or gasoline traction.
Types of manual cultivators
The variety of devices for cultivating the land is determined by the types of agricultural work that must be carried out from early spring to autumn. Some types of hand cultivators are used all year round to care for indoor plants or greenhouse plantations. According to the type of movement, they are divided into moving and point. The moving ones include all types of rotary openers, hillers, scarifiers, harrows. Point devices are tornado root removers, potato diggers, houseplant cultivators.
Rotary hand cultivator
The principle of operation of a rotary cultivator is based on the rotation of 4-5 end stars or cutters, the ends of which are bent and sharpened. They are driven either by an external mechanical drive or by manual pressure. Rotating cutters cut the roots of weeds, pull them out, and crush the top layer of the earth. At the same time, the surface is loosened. Such a device without a mechanical drive can only be used on improved lands. If processing of virgin soil is required, it is necessary to purchase an electric or gasoline motor cultivator.
Ripper
To improve irrigation quick removal weeds and fertilizing on a personal summer cottage or garden plot, you need to buy a manual cultivator. It consists of 3-4 hooks bent to the bottom, which can be mounted on a long handle for processing the site or be fixed on a short handle for loosening the ground of indoor plants. It is possible to fix the ripper, as one of the interchangeable devices, on the frame of a wheeled manual cultivator or with a mechanical drive.
Root remover
To get rid of weeds, it is necessary to remove the root of the plant from the ground. A manual plant remover along with the roots will help to solve this problem. It consists of three sharp rods welded to the base, the ends of which are bent in one direction for screwing into the earth crust. The base is welded to a tubular element with an elongated cross handle. Such a device is called "Tornado" and works as follows:
- position the tool so that the weed is in the center between the tips of the rods;
- holding the ends of the handle, screw the root remover into the ground clockwise to the depth of the weed roots;
- pull out the plant along with the roots;
- shake off the ground along with the weed.
potato digger
Traditionally, villagers use pitchforks to dig up potatoes. A slight improvement in their design will turn them into an easy-to-use manual potato cultivator for people of any age. This requires a small transformation:
- the forks are not located vertically, but are bent at an angle of 30-50 degrees to the ground;
- a vertical pointed pin is welded to the tuleyka;
- instead of a handle, a metal pipe with a horizontal handle is inserted into the tuleyka;
- digging potatoes is done by sticking the tool into the ground near the bush, turning around the axis until the fork penetrates under the bush and tilting the handle until the tubers are removed.
For indoor plants
Manual garden cultivators are used for indoor plants, include a cultivator and a shovel. With the help of a ripper, the top layer of the earth is loosened, it becomes more accessible for the penetration of moisture, oxygen, and fertilizers. The spatula is used when transplanting plants, to add fertilizer. They are made of stainless steel with a rubberized handle. Hand tools for the care of plantations can be used not only for indoor pot breeding, but also in small greenhouses, hotbeds, when decorating summer cottages, personal plots, loggias with flowers.
flat cutter
The theoretical basis for the use in the reclamation of virgin lands, in contrast to flat-cut plows, was laid at the beginning of the 20th century, and was practically implemented in the 50s of the last century during the development of the Kazakh virgin lands. At the same time, the flat cutter cuts off the roots of weeds, produces loosening, but the top layer does not turn over, which does not violate the soil structure and increases productivity. A flat cutter consists of several pointed flat peaks or flat knives fixed on vertical rods of reinforcement, which, when moving, go to a depth of 10-20 cm, cut the upper layer.
How to make a manual cultivator with your own hands
Manual cultivators for tillage in the country can be made with your own hands. For this you may need:
- metal narrow strips or pins,
- wooden or metal cuttings with the possibility of fixing horizontal handles;
- a standard set of tools - a screwdriver, a hammer, a grinder, pliers, a vice, a chisel, screws.
- Some products may require grinder and welding work.
Making a cultivator
The most famous manual cultivator is Fokin's flat cutter. A design close to it can be made independently. For this you will need:
- steel strip 3-5 mm thick, 40-50 cm long and 4-6 cm wide;
- wooden round or square handle;
- 4-8 wood screws.
The manufacturing process will include several steps, for which you will need a vice, pliers, a chisel, a grinder. To make a flat cutter, do the following:
- drill 4-8 holes in the strip on one side for its fastening;
- bend the steel strip in the form of the number "7" with straightening its lower part;
- harden the workpiece - bring to red blowtorch or put in a fire, then let cool;
- on one side of the square wooden handle, make a handle that is comfortable for the hand (if you have a round handle, make a flat surface with a chisel from one edge for attaching the strip);
- fasten the strip to flat surface handles with self-tapping screws;
- sharpen the horizontal part of the flat cutter on a grinding wheel.
Tornado
If it is not possible to purchase a Tornado fork root remover, you can do it yourself. by the most in a simple way is a change in the shape of the teeth of conventional forks - the bases of the teeth must be placed evenly around the circumference, and the sharp ends should be bent in one direction in a spiral. Instead of a handle, it is desirable to weld a vertical professional pipe up to the owner’s chest with a transverse handle 80 cm in shape resembling the letter “T” to the tuleyka. The handle should be comfortable to grip with two hands along the edges, and the increase in the lever will facilitate the process of cutting into the ground when turning it.
DIY star cultivator
The main tasks of the star cultivator are cutting the roots of weeds at a depth of 10-20 cm, mixing the topsoil. This task is easily handled by low-power manual electric and gasoline motor cultivators. Simplify the creation of a home-made such unit can be used in the design of an old bicycle with the transfer of wheel rotation to the star by means of chain drive. For those who want to make a simple star cultivator, you need to stock up:
- sheet metal 2-3 mm thick;
- smooth rod with a diameter of 5-8 mm;
- a tube 20 cm long and an inner diameter of 7-10 mm, which must correspond to the diameter of the rod;
- a tube 15-20 cm long and with an inner diameter of 30-40 mm to create a tulle; a metal or wooden handle with a diameter of 30-40 mm and a length according to the growth of the farmer.
Creating such a device on your own is fraught with the difficulty of solving the problem of rotation of stars or cutters without friction. The use of a complex mechanism with bearings for this purpose will create many additional tasks - the need for lubrication, protection from the ground, moisture. Instructions for making a simple star cultivator include:
- From the available steel sheets, the angle grinder cuts out 6-7 beam stars with a beam length of 5-8 cm from the disk and a hole in the middle.
- The tube is cut into 2-3 equal parts and welded to the sprockets.
- The resulting rotary disk element is mounted on a rod (rotation on it must be free).
- The rod is bent to give it a bottle-like appearance (while its ends are connected together, the arc of the bent rod should not interfere with the movement of the rotation element).
- The ends of the rod are inserted into the pipe and riveted or welded to the tuleyka.
- The stalk is inserted into the tuleyka and fastened with a self-tapping screw.
- A strip 3-5 cm wide is cut out of a sheet of metal, which is given a U-shape.
- The strip is attached to the rod closer to the tuleyka.
- After anti-corrosion painting, the tool is ready for use.
Cultivator from an old bicycle
An old bicycle can be an ideal blank for creating a cultivator. This requires a frame, steering wheel, and one of its rear wheels. A drawing of such an alteration can be found on the Internet. Do the following:
- remove the front wheel;
- turn the steering wheel with the handles outward and fix (can be welded);
- remove levers with pedals;
- half shafts with cutters can be fixed to the axis of the front star on both sides;
- if you leave the chain, then the rotation of the wheel will be transmitted to the star and rotate the cutters, to speed up the rotation, it is advisable to swap the large star and the sprocket on the wheel;
- on the lower part of the vertical seat tube, fix the pipe with fasteners with bolts for additional attachments - rippers, plows, hillers, slotters, harrows;
- the control of such a unit consists in pushing the handles with the wheel forward;
- You can adjust the depth of penetration of the cultivating tool into the ground by pressing down.
Advantages and disadvantages of manual cultivators
Agricultural work - digging, weeding - is hard physical labor. Therefore, any means of simplifying it will always be appreciated by farmers. Caring for indoor plants, a flower garden in the country will require the use of manual rippers, spatulas. Garden plots with an area of more than 3 acres will be difficult to process without a universal motor cultivator with a set of different attachments. For small plots, complex sites or greenhouses, the use of manual cultivation tools is justified. Their pluses are.
7 country miracle helpers!
Unusual hand gardening tool (photo, video, drawings)
The flat cutter is a great achievement of the agricultural mind. This is the first truly universal garden tools. Not just for tillage, but a tool for comprehensive cohabitation with the cultivated plant community and soil.
Fokine flat cutter "Swift"
2. Ripper Wonder-shovel "Plowman"
Ripper Wonder-shovel "Plowman" blueprints:
A shovel, which can be attributed to the category of cultivators-cultivators - "Plowman". The mechanism of the ripper Plowman is simple and quite effective. The raising of the earth is carried out by the work of a simple lever. The main load falls on the legs, with which the working forks are pressed into the ground. The lifting of the soil comes from the effort of the hands, which unloads the back and is therefore attractive to the elderly and gardeners suffering from back pain. Two opposite forks, passing one through the other, loosen the ground without wrapping it, providing a loosening depth of 15-20 cm.
Advantages of the design of a shovel or soil cultivator or potato digger
1. Deep tillage without seam turnover.
2.High productivity.
3. Significant physical effort is not required when processing the formation.
4.Available in production.
Mode of application:
A feature of tillage with a miracle shovel is that the garden is not dug across, but along. With both outstretched hands we take the miracle shovel by the edges top bar, we step on the platform (footboard) and it easily enters the ground. With a slight movement (can be combined with a slight shaking), stepping back two steps, we transfer the shovel from a vertical position to an almost horizontal one. After that, we take a step forward, pull the shovel back 30 cm, give the shovel a vertical position, drive it into the ground and repeat the cycles until the row ends. Then we proceed to the processing of the next row.
Materials: half an inch of labor, round timber (or hexagon) with a diameter of 15 mm.
For ease of transportation, you can make a collapsible design.
Miracle shovel Prokopenko blueprints:
Miracle pitchforks allow you to dig up the ground without loading your back at all due to the unique rotary way of working. Miracle pitchforks do not require you to bend down or squat. Efforts are applied only to the "steering wheel". At the same time, the productivity of digging increases by 3-4 times.
Miracle forks are adjustable in height over a wide range, which allows you to perfectly fit the tool to your height.
Miracle pitchfork swivel photo:
Miracle shovel of a monk - Father Gennady photos and drawings:
The Miracle Cleaver is a tool for easy and safe wood splitting. You can chop three times as much wood with the same amount of time and effort as with a regular cleaver. At the same time, even women and children will be able to chop wood, because the main work consists only in raising and lowering a kettlebell weighing 3.3 kg.
One Wonder Cleaver replaces four tools: Cleaver, Axe, Hammer and Chisel. If you follow the instructions for use, the tool is absolutely safe.
The Miracle Cleaver allows you to chop even very thick logs. However, it does not require any special skills and is very easy to operate.
Miracle Cleaver photo:
6. Miracle potato hiller
The miracle hiller is designed for loosening the soil on potato ridges and hilling up the sprouted potatoes.
Thanks to an optimally calculated design, the new invention contributes to high-quality soil cultivation (loosening and hilling) and the correct formation of a potato ridge.
In order to get a good harvest, the land not only needs to be plowed and sown. In the process of growing various crops, the soil also needs to be loosened and processed. It is required to pull out all the weeds and it is especially important to spud the earth. For these purposes, a cultivator is perfect. With your own hands, such an apparatus can be made at home, you just need to have a great desire.
Options for homemade hand cultivators
Such an important function can be performed with a shovel.. But hard labour does not justify itself. The very efficiency of labor increases several times if mechanized means of tillage are used. Any owner of a small plot of land can make a manual plow with their own hands. Of the special tools you may need welding machine.
It should be noted that they began to cultivate the soil a very long time ago. A few decades ago, at the peak of the garden and country lifestyle, such a tool was very popular. It was both bought at factories and made independently.
The most popular types of tools are:
The scope of devices is the widest. Cultivators can perform the following tasks:
- loosen the earth, thereby saturating it with oxygen;
- cut rows for sowing crops and sprinkle them;
- save plants from the influence of weeds, etc.;
- be used together with a walk-behind tractor;
- break up lumps of soil and level the ground.
Necessary materials and tools
In order to always be able to make some necessary products in the country, it is necessary to prepare the most popular materials in advance.
First you need to stock up on a lot of steel. It should be in every workshop. The number of different strips, profiles and pipes depends on how much the right tools you can do it yourself.
Welding will be an indispensable tool in every household. With its help, you can quickly and reliably connect all the details. various designs. As an alternative to welding, bolts and nuts are used, but the reliability will not be comparable.
Many do not know where to start when assembling a manual cultivator with their own hands. Drawings are the first thing a novice owner should stock up on . And you also need to have the following set of tools and materials:
Cultivator "Tornado"
To make such a cultivator is not difficult. Its base can be made from metal pipe. Steel bars must be welded to the end of the lower part of the pipe, thereby forming a square shape. After that, the rods are bent in a spiral direction, and the ends are sharpened.
As an alternative, you can use a bicycle handlebar as a lever, and install a shovel shaft instead of a metal handle. This will save you a lot own forces during work.
Such an apparatus is intended for digging various roots at great depths, for preparing holes for planting trees, etc. It can be used as an electrophoresis for do-it-yourself soil cultivation.
How to make a flat cutter
Many are looking for a weed cultivator. Such a weeding apparatus can be made independently. A profile pipe made of metal or steel is used as the basis for the frame. This base must be made of 2 parts. You need to weld at an angle of 30 degrees. A wheel fork is welded to the frame, made of a steel pipe or plate 3 mm thick. The wheel itself can be either made independently or bought. The steering wheel must be made of 2 steel pipes attached to the frame.
The horizontal part of the frame is an adapter for the cutting attachment. Then you need to mount a knife, which is made of a steel tape 2-3 mm thick. Next, the knives are sharpened. The sharpening angle can be changed or adjustable knives can be installed. If the farm has an old bicycle, then all spare parts can be taken from it. Because of large diameter bicycle wheels move very easily when working. The knife is made in the form of an inverted letter "P", or T-shaped. It should be noted that the T-shaped knife must be used very carefully between the rows, as there is a possibility of spoiling the crop.
A special subspecies of the flat cutter is the design with forks. Such an apparatus has several knives that are mounted on a fork. It is made of steel rods, and they, in turn, are bent in a special way.
For such an apparatus, you also need to make knives self made with your own hands. Drawings of these devices are found in various thematic forums and blogs.
The design has a fairly easy move. Both a fragile girl and a small child can work with such an apparatus. Loosening takes place on highest level, but the roots of weeds are practically not cut off. To do this, you need to choose what is more important: high-quality loosening or removal of pests from the soil.
Although such a device is called a plow, its direct purpose rereads it. It does not have the classic properties of a plow. Even two people are not enough to work with such a tool. He is more of a classic cultivator. The device resembles a flat cutter, but a traction handle is additionally installed.
For such a design, one person is taken in front, who plays the role of a traction force. And the second, the operator, controls the process of cultivating the land. It is impossible to use such a device without a co-pilot.
It is important to note that such a tool is not suitable for plowing the soil for two reasons. The first is that a normal plow turns over the layers of soil, and the device only loosens it. In addition, only one human force is not enough for normal plowing of the land.
Rotary or star
Making such a device is not a difficult task. To make the structure, you need 5-7 stars, which will serve as knives, strung on the axis. These knives can be either straight or curved to the sides. After cultivating the soil with such a tool, it is recommended to walk between the rows and a flat cutter. A combination of two models is also possible, when stars go into the structure first, and then a flat cutter is used for the final stage. In this way, the worker's strength and energy can be significantly saved. Since the stars perform the function of wheels in the design, an additional axle is not needed.
It is quite difficult to work with such a tool, so only a physically trained person can handle it. In a similar garden design, wheels of the same diameter can be installed instead of stars. In this case, you get a good weeding hiller.
Cultivator "Hedgehogs"
For the base, you need to prepare a powerful fork made of steel strip. In front of the tool is a working axis with nozzles. They need to be made from pieces of pipe, on which steel bars with pointed tips are welded. Actually, that's where the name comes from.
Loosening is carried out by lightly shaking the soil and piercing it, but the weeds remain in place, especially their roots. The main advantage of this subspecies is the easy movement of the tool. Inter-row passage is carried out almost effortlessly.
As well as in the star model, in the “hedgehog” design, you can additionally install a flat cutter for last stage cultivation of the land, with the help of which all weeds are removed. For the handle, you can use both a stick from a shovel and a bicycle handlebar. Such a steering wheel can be used in front of you and behind you.
For the first option, it is necessary to drive the “hedgehogs” nozzle into the ground with its own weight. This process is quite labor intensive. For the second case, you need to weight the working part. Nevertheless, it is much easier for them to work, despite the extra weight. In such work, you can listen to the advice of parents. They are familiar with such tools personally. In past manual designs very often used, since there were no mechanized means at all.
Important nuances at work
During the performance of any work in the workshop, it is necessary to comply with all safety measures. It is very important to protect your eyes when working with welding, regardless of its type.
When using arc welding, the danger can be carried not only by the light from the burning of the arc, but also by chipping steel at the site of the newly formed seam. Moreover, the seam can break off on its own and be thrown out over a long distance.
Tapping a hot seam will also bad idea, since hardened steel can get not only into the eyes, but also behind the collar or into the hair. Therefore, these places must be closed in the first place.
When working with electric welding, gloves and a protective helmet are required, since work takes place at high temperatures. You should also avoid combining oxygen and oil, as this is an explosive mixture, and a spark is not needed for detonation.
Do-it-yourself production of a manual soil cultivator will cost much less than its factory counterparts. The cost will be higher when the design includes both mechanized and additional tools, and "gadgets".
By making an inter-row homemade product, you can not only save money, but also get the opportunity to design it for your personal needs. This will allow you to achieve maximum convenience when working with such a tool.
Therefore, even such simple products, like a "hedgehog" or a cultivator from a bicycle, can significantly reduce labor costs during work. This process will be unique and very convenient.
Sometimes vegetables and fruits are really more profitable to buy in the store. But there is always more confidence in the quality of products grown by one's own hands. In addition, work on the earth increases vitality, if done wisely. But hard physical labor is not always useful, especially for those who are used to working only in the office. In order for spring chores to be pleasant and not too burdensome, it is necessary to acquire the means of small-scale mechanization. You can, of course, buy modern equipment, but it turned out that making, for example, a cultivator with your own hands is quite simple. Check it out.
Tornado - this is the name of a manual cultivator, which can and should be done with your own hands. With such a device resembling a twisted pitchfork, you can forget about the endless battles with weeds. The teeth of the tool pierce the ground at an angle, after which the Tornado must be turned and lifted. To do this, you do not have to make excessive efforts, because instead of a conventional handle, the Tornado has a lever.
The Tornado cultivator is attractive because it is quite easy to use and working with it does not require any significant effort.
This wonderful root remover is good for everyone, but acquaintance with its store price can completely discourage the desire to become its owner. However, there is nothing complicated in this device. The Tornado cultivator can be made independently and even in several different ways.
Spring Steel Tornado
We'll need steel tape 50 cm long, 1-1.5 mm thick and 2 cm wide. For our purpose, it is best to use spring steel. We bend the tape in the form of a loop and attach it to the wooden handle of the tool. The length of the handle is determined depending on the height of the owner: it should be convenient to work with the tool. You can also make a lever, the same as that of a store root remover. The working steel loop should be 20 cm in diameter, which is slightly less than the row spacing. The edges of the loop are sharpened with a file on both sides.
Weeds - pitchforks to the side
If the Tornado looks like a pitchfork, then why not make a manual cultivator with your own hands from this tool familiar to all gardeners? We will buy an ordinary pitchfork in a hardware store and give the teeth of this tool the desired bend with a hammer. In general, the tool should resemble a kind of corkscrew. It is important to take your time and proceed with caution.
For the lever you need a half-meter segment plastic pipe. We buy in the store and a plastic handle-nozzle for the handle, which is used for pitchforks or shovels. We cut the tube lengthwise, put it on the handle and fix it with electrical tape so that it does not slip. Now the resulting lever protrudes about 25 cm from the handle on both sides.
It is logical to make the forked part of the Tornado precisely from the pitchfork - a tool that is well known to all gardeners and that everyone has
An important part for the Tornado cultivator is its upper lever part: thanks to the lever, you can do hard work with minimal effort
Option #2: bike-based flat cutter
A cultivator-flat cutter will help to cope with weeds and will greatly facilitate the life of any gardener. Structurally, it is more complicated than the Tornado, but not by much.
To create a flat cutter you need:
- an old bicycle that no one uses for its intended purpose;
- a head from a cultivator that has fallen into disrepair or a working surface of a two-handed saw;
- drill, grinder, wrenches, drills, bolts and so on.
The bike comes with a frame and one wheel. A cultivator head is attached to the frame. In the same capacity, the cutting part of a two-handed saw, a small plow or steel sharp bars made independently can be used. The handles for controlling the mechanism are made of aluminum or steel pipes. A piece of pipe about 2.5 cm in diameter will come in handy as a transverse jumper.
A flat cutter can be made on the basis of an old bicycle, using as a cutting part work surface two-handed saw, ironically called "Friendship"
No particular complexity in the design of this handy tool no, it can be made with the right material at hand
The structure must be rigid, so the nodes are bolted together. A medium size wheel should be secured to the frame with locknuts. It turned out a homemade cultivator, which is very functional and easy to use.
Option #3: disc rotary cultivator
Making a rotary cultivator with your own hands is not at all easy. It requires special skills and good physical preparation. If you have all the listed qualities, you can try to build this tool, which will be much more effective than all the previous ones. With its help, you can not only cultivate, but also harrow the earth, deftly breaking large clods.
As part of a disk rotary cultivator: 1 - disk, 2 - axis. 3 - sleeve, 4 - large bracket, 5 - small bracket, 6 - stem, 7 - pipe, 8 - handle
The working bodies of this cultivator are convex discs, which must be welded to the bushings put on the axle. The axial ends are fixed with cotter pins, which are fixed in a large bracket. After that, a hole is cut in the upper part of this bracket. Handles with a crossbar are fixed in it. A rod 25 cm long and 24 mm in diameter will have to be welded to a small bracket. A 16 mm diameter rod is screwed into it. Part of the rod protrudes above the crossbar.
It is not so easy to give the desired spherical shape to a disk 4 mm thick. To do this, you need to be able to deftly handle the hammer. A strong and accurate blow to the center of the disk will transform it into a bowl. It is for this work that the main physical effort will be needed. Special wing nuts, located on the crossbar, regulate the angle of inclination of the spherical discs relative to the direction of movement of the cultivator itself.
Option # 4: industrial meat grinder to help us
All of the above inventory is quite simple. But in the conditions of your own workshop, you can also make homemade electric cultivator. This once again proves that the possibilities of home craftsmen are almost limitless. To implement this idea, you need an old industrial meat grinder. On its basis, an effective electric gardener's assistant will be built.
An electric cultivator can be made on the basis of a meat grinder for industrial purposes: you get a fairly powerful unit that will last for several years
Everything is not so difficult as it seems, if there is a welding machine and a master who knows how to use it for its intended purpose. Two corners should be attached to the gearbox housing. Pipes with a bend are welded to the corners, which will be used as handles. Between the resulting handles, another piece of pipe is welded - a spacer that gives the structure the desired strength.
The axles for the cultivator wheels will also have to be welded to the corners. The wheels are selected in medium size so that they are easy to use and do not fall into the soil.
The main structural element is the shaft. It will have to be machined from ordinary scrap. The connection is carried out as in the original: in the slot. The meat grinder nozzle is chipped off with a sledgehammer, after which a thick-walled cast iron bushing remains. A blank made from scrap is placed in it, to which lugs in the form of a screw are welded. They are cut from car springs. Other material options for the lugs were used, but they were not viable.
Grousers are located at an angle of 120 degrees. They need to be screwed out in the direction of rotation, then it will be easier for them to enter the ground, and the cultivator itself will be easier to control. The engine of the device is connected according to the "triangle" scheme, start - capacitor. The engine switch is mounted on the handle of the cultivator for ease of operation. The device will last a long time if, before starting work, lubricate the mating of a home-made shaft in a cast-iron bushing with any used oil.
Take a good look at what the lugs should be and how they should be located: the efficiency of the device and its durability depend on this
The quality of tillage depends on the speed of movement of such a cultivator. Fast plowing will be rough, while slow plowing can literally turn the earth into dust.
Option # 5: a child of a bicycle and a washing machine
Do not rush to throw away the old bike and the used one. washing machine. These things can still come in handy if you want to make a cultivator with your own hands, spending a minimum of money on it.
Now you know how you can make a cultivator yourself. It remains to put your knowledge into practice.
