The cutting tool in the process of working with wood becomes dull. A blunt tool crumples, crumbles wood, the carving looks rough and careless. Sharpened to the required sharpness and tucked, the blade of the tool gives cleanliness to the carved product and facilitates work. good master always keeps his tool sharp and ready to use at any time. A properly sharpened tool lasts longer, and vice versa - if there are defects, it quickly becomes unusable. Each woodcarver should be able to sharpen and refuel his tool on an electric sharpener, sharpener with manual drive or manually.
Sharpening and editing on an electric grinder. The fastest and most convenient is the sharpening and refilling of tools on an electric sharpener with various devices. The most convenient is an electric grinder, on the motor shaft of which it is possible to install replaceable abrasive and finishing wheels on both sides - rubber with abrasive and felt (Fig. 75).
Rice. 75.
Electric grinder for sharpening and straightening tools:
a - a modernized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, straightening and polishing tools: 1 - sliding stop; 2 - felt circle, 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; 6 - movable ulor device: 1 - latch horizontal movement; 2 - movable platform for choosing the angle of sharpening; 3 - bolt-clamp of vertical movement; b - a device for straightening and polishing a tool (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 - rubber wheels with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft
Before starting work, you need to prepare everything you need. A wood carver constantly needs a variety of chisels, for sharpening and refueling which you need to have a large set of abrasive wheels. For profile chisels (corners, semicircular and flat ones), appropriate circles are required, which you can make yourself by giving them the desired profile using a piece of an abrasive wheel of increased hardness.
The emphasis on the electric grinder must be movable so that it can be moved in vertical and horizontal directions. The platform on the stop should also change the angle of inclination or you need to have several platforms with different angles. Place a container of water next to the grinder.
Tool sharpening techniques. To master correct technique and techniques for sharpening the tool blade, certain rules must be followed. First install a suitable abrasive wheel and determine desired angle sharpening the blade, fix the stop and the platform so that there are no vibrations and even slight displacements, turn on the electric motor and start sharpening. The basis for proper tool sharpening is chamfering (Fig. 76).
Rice. 76.
Chamfering:
a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; in - on chisels-corners: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer
When grinding the chamfer, the stalk of the chisel is taken in right hand(Fig. 77), and with the left hand hold in the middle part and lightly press the blade against the abrasive wheel. It is necessary to ensure that the chamfer is sharpened evenly in the same plane across the entire width; for this, the chisel blade is shifted from left to right and back. Semicircular and flat chisels turn evenly during sharpening. It is necessary to constantly lower the chisel blade into the water, otherwise you can burn the blade, and the chamfer will jam. Such a tool becomes unusable, you have to grind a lot of metal, which shortens the length of the chisel blade.
Rice. 77.
The position of the chisel during sharpening (the arrows show the direction of movement of the chisel):
1 - straight chisel: 2 - semicircular and sloping; 3 - chisel-corner
With the appearance of burrs, the abrasive wheel with a large grain is replaced with a fine-grained one and the chamfer is sharpened, making the burr completely invisible. Then the chisel is finally corrected on a dense felt circle with GOI paste. If there is no paste, it can be replaced with chromium oxide oil art paint or you can make your own from 80 parts of chromium oxide, 12 parts of wax or paraffin, 3 parts of kerosene and 5 parts of fat. The dressing paste is rubbed into the felt circle evenly over the entire circumference.
Since the tool becomes dull during the carving process, from time to time it has to be refilled on felt wheels. It is desirable to have a device (see Fig. 75), on the shaft of which felt circles with profile shapes and finishing circles for polishing the surfaces of chisels are fixed. To fill the corners, use wooden circles, carved from linden or other soft wood, smeared with dressing paste.
The tool is polished on finishing circles (rubber with abrasive or corundum). But the chisel blade itself cannot be polished on finishing circles, as it becomes rounded, blunt. For sharpening and refilling the tool, you can adapt an electric drill, using it as an electric grinder.
Manual sharpening and straightening of the tool is possible with a set of simple and profiled bars of various hardness and grain size, as well as profiled and simple whetstones.
Rice. 78.
Hand sharpener:
1 - factory-made; 2 - homemade
For convenience and speed of sharpening and dressing, you can use a manual sharpener (Fig. 78) or make a device shown in fig. 79, however, in some cases, the touchstone has to be held in the hands, which is not very convenient.
Rice. 79.
Device for sharpening and straightening tools manually
Wooden shields with bars and whetstones inserted or glued into them can be coated with waterproof varnish or impregnated with hot wax, mastic or paraffin to prevent cracking and sticking, since bars and whetstones are moistened with water during sharpening of the tool.
The tool is first sharpened on a coarse-grained bar, then on a fine-grained one and straightened on a whetstone, microcorundum stone, canvas or leather belt with GOI paste or on a dressing board with diamond or dressing paste.
sharpening a joint. Joints-knives and joint-chisels are sharpened with a bevel angle from 30 to 80 °, depending on the complexity of the carved ornament, its depth, size and curvilinear shapes (Fig. 80). The angle of the bevel and bevel on both sides of the blade can be obtained on a manual grinder. Then sharpening and dressing are carried out on bars and whetstones.
Rice. 80.
Sharpening a joint with one chamfer:
a - sharpening parameters: 1 - chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel; 6 - the position of the hands during work
During sharpening, the knife or chisel is held so that the chamfer is adjacent to the bar with its entire plane. They sharpen the joint with smooth and even movements, directing back and forth or in a circle along the plane of the bar until a thin burr appears on the edge of the blade. After that, they sharpen another bevel of the joint, turning it over until the burr falls off completely. When processed on a fine-grained bar, the bevels become completely smooth.
Then the joint is corrected on a microcorundum whetstone in the same sequence as on a bar. After straightening, finishing is carried out on a straightening board or a leather belt with GOI diamond or filling paste.
The joint can be sharpened in another way: on the wide chamfers of the joint, a second chamfer is grinded near the blade itself, it is faster and more convenient to refuel during operation (Fig. 81).
Rice. 81.
Sharpening a double bevel joint:
1 - first chamfer, 2 - second chamfer
Check the sharpness of the joint on a pine or spruce board, making cuts across the wood fibers. If the blade enters the wood easily and the cut is smooth, without breaking the fibers, the joint is sufficiently sharpened.
Sharpening straight chisels
Straight chisels are sharpened and ruled in the same way as a joint, but if a burr appears on the chamfer, the chisel blade is not turned over, but continues to be sharpened on a fine-grained bar and ends on a whetstone. Fine-tuning is carried out on a dressing board or belts with GOI paste (Fig. 82).
Rice. 82.
Sharpening a straight chisel:
1 - the position of the hands; 2 - the correct slope of the chisel when sharpening the chamfer; 3 - incorrect tilt of the chisel
Sharpening and editing profile chisels. Profile chisels are sharpened on a board with a set of bars and whetstones that have a suitable profile (Fig. 83). The inner surfaces of the chisels are processed with smooth movements back and forth along the length of the bar or whetstone; they also sharpen the chamfers of the chisel, turning it from side to side until the burr disappears. Having received smooth surface on a fine-grained whetstone, the chisel is brought on a belt or dressing board, smeared with filling or diamond paste.
Rice. 83.
Sharpening and editing the profile chisel:
1 - board with a set of profile bars and whetstones; 2 - dressing board with chisel profiles; 3 - leather or canvas belt for straightening
Sharpening and wiring saws. In carving, you have to work a lot with various saws (hacksaws, bow saws, and others), which need to be sharpened and bred quite often. Dull saws make the job much more difficult.
On fig. 84 shows several devices for quickly sharpening saws.
Rice. 84.
Saw sharpeners:
a - clamp in a vice: 1 - saw; 2 - wooden spacers; 3 - a file with a rubber tip; b - wedge clamp: 1 - saw; 2 - wedge clamp
Rice. 84 (continued). Devices for sharpening saws: clamp to the workbench with clamps: 1 - file; 2 - gaskets; 3 - saw; 4 - clamps; g - clamp for bow saw
If the saw hits a stone, nail or other metal object, then one side of the teeth or several teeth become smaller in height. Because of this, the pipa "goes" away from the desired direction, so the damaged teeth must be aligned - milled (Fig. 85).
Rice. 85.
Saw tooth alignment tool:
a - with a trihedral file; b - with a rectangular file: 1 - saw; 2 - file; 3 - block; 4 - wedge; 5 - rubber hose
The correct setting of the saw teeth is also of great importance. Even a sharpened saw without a divorce cuts badly. Moreover, each saw is intended for any specific purpose and must have different divorce. Saws with large tooth separation are used to work with soft, wet and loose rocks; dense and hardwood requires little tooth setting.
The saws are bred with manual and mechanical wiring (Fig. 86). The spreading angle is adjusted by the width of the wiring slot or by setting the desired slope in mechanical wiring.
Rice. 86.
Saw layouts:
1 - set of teeth; 2 - types of wiring
Being engaged in woodcarving for more than 20 years, being a master of the NCP, I decided that it was time to respond to your numerous requests - to open a woodcarving master class on the Amur Jewelery website. Sincerely wishing you to enjoy wood carving, I begin my lessons with the correct sharpening of the tool and making the handle of the cutter.
Making a cutter handle
I prefer to make handles from hard, viscous woods (birch, elm, bird cherry). We take a rectangular bar (25x35x130).
At the end of the bar, mark the center.
We select a drill for a drill with a diameter smaller than the cutter blade shank, drill a hole.
We insert the blade of the cutter, turn it over and push it all the way with a mallet.
We begin to cut the handle to the blade of the cutter from the edges and along the plane, making a conical shape.
We remove the bevel.
We mark the back part with a pencil and cut it off at an angle.
Round the back of the handle.
We take an average sandpaper (No. 12) and grind to a state that is pleasant to us.
We narrow the neck of the handle, gradually cutting off the excess.
We make notches or indentations on the handle.
Apply PVA glue to the neck of the handle and spread it evenly.
To strengthen the neck of the handle, we take a nylon thread and carefully wrap it around the glue-covered part of the handle - the neck.
We fill the end of the thread under the previous turn and apply PVA glue on top with an even layer.
We got a handle that is convenient for carving, without steps, smoothly transitioning from the canvas of the chisel to the canvas of the wooden handle.
The cutter is ready to work, after a few hours you can cut wood.
I prefer to make such handles for all working incisors.
Sharpening an oblique knife
We sharpen the tool, in this case the jamb - an oblique knife, on a stone (abrasive bar) of medium grain, which is pre-immersed in water. Having chosen a sharpening angle that is convenient for you, fixing your hands in this position, with a slight pressure away from you, we sharpen the tool. The angle of sharpening depends on the density of the material that you are going to cut.
Sharpening on a bar of medium grain size is carried out until a strip of metal similar to foil appears on the sting of the cutter. We moisten the bar periodically.
Having achieved, through our work, a uniform thin strip of foil on the sting, we move on to a small diamond bar.
With the same movements, we continue sharpening, turning the cutter from one side to the other, until the foil falls off the cutter's sting.
After the diamond bar, we put it on a moistened leather belt, nailed to a wooden bar, with a paste, and so we continue to sharpen (polish) the tip of the cutter to a mirror shine.
A sharpened cutter is checked for readiness in different ways: on a nail, but I usually check by cutting off the edge of the newspaper.
If you succeeded - congratulations, your tool is ready to go!
In cutters with one-sided sharpening, one side is sharpened, the other is polished.
That's all! I hope it was easy for you. See you at the next lesson.
Sculptural composition, work of Novoselov A.V.
To perform all types of carving, various elements of home decoration, furniture, souvenirs and other crafts, you need a special tool.
The carving tool can be distinguished as the main (cutting) and auxiliary (for drilling and sawing, carpentry, marking). Also widely used are various electrified household tools and devices based on an electric motor that the master can make himself.
All tools must be of excellent quality so that you can easily perform carving work of any complexity.
The cutting tool should be made of good steel, light and comfortable, perfectly sharpened so that the wood is cut like butter, it should be kept in perfect condition.
A blunt tool crumbles, crumples, and does not cut wood, and the cuts and the carving itself look rough and careless. This spoils the mood and often discourages the desire to finish the work. It is easy and pleasant to work with a sharp tool, the drawing is clean, precise, beautiful. By finished product you can always determine not only the skill and handwriting of the master, but also what and how he did the work.
Cutting tool
Bogorodsky knife, it is applied for sculptural carving, takes its name from the Bogorodsk sculptural carving.
Bogorodsky knife
joint knife(chamfer sharpening angle 20°, bevel angle 35 0; 45°; 60°), used for flat, flat-relief, embossed, openwork threads.
joint knife
knife cutter- used as an auxiliary tool for various kinds threads.
knife cutter
Chisels straight(sharpening angle 18-20°); are used as an auxiliary tool for various types of threads.
Straight chisel
Chisels semicircular- the main tool used to perform all types of woodcarving. There are: - sloping (R˃H), medium (R=H), steep (R˂H).
Chisels semi-round
Sameski - Cranberries these are chisels with a curved blade that allows, when carving, not to touch the processed plane with the handle. There is a cranberry-flat chisel, a cranberry-corner. cranberry - a semicircular chisel.
Cranberry chisels
Ceraziki chisels resemble steep semicircular chisels. The width of their canvas is 2 ... 3 mm. Designed for cutting thin veins, the sections of which correspond to the profile of the tool.
Cerazik chisel
Chisels - corners or geismus.(angle between cutting edges 50-70°). Used to select a V-shaped groove, used to make contour thread elements.
Corner chisel or geismus
Stichel. Stichels always have a bend angle of 15 degrees. Their handles are most often in the form of a fungus.Used to sample various veins in the manufacture of engravings.
Stichel
Klepiki. Klepiks are the most different sizes, but they have only three forms of sharpening: a sword, a leaf and a nail. The first two are called so: rivet-sword and rivet-leaf.
They are used in flat-relief and three-dimensional carving for cleaning the background in hard-to-reach places.
Klepik-sword, Klepik-leaf
Chisel-nail. Marigolds differ from ordinary rivets in the form of sharpening. She looks like a fingernail. The purpose of nails is cleaning in hard-to-reach places and making stapled thread elements.
nail chisel
Spooners(spoon knives). The best spoon holder is a sharpened ring with a bar welded to it. Spooners are needed to remove a large amount of material in the recesses and to process the inner walls in the manufacture of dishes.
Spooners
Punches and stamps- these are steel rods with a pattern at the working ends. They are most often used for chasing the background in flat-relief and relief carving.
The cutting tool is made of tool steels:
1-Carbon (U10; U12; U10A; U12A), when sharpened, they are determined by a white beam of sparks with separate stars.
2-alloyed (XB5; X12; Ch12M), when sharpened, they give yellow or orange sparks.
3-High-speed steels (P18; P9), when sharpened, they give dark red sparks.
Tool sharpening and dressing
Of great importance for the performance of high-quality woodcarving is correct sharpening tool.
Tool sharpening consists of two stages:
1- chamfering;
2- edits.
1. Chamfering. The chamfer can be removed on an electric grinder (see fig.), a grinder with a manual drive or manually on an abrasive block.
An electric sharpener for sharpening and straightening tools: a - a mechanized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, straightening and polishing tools: 1 - movable stop; 2 - felt circle; 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; b - movable stop device;: 1 - horizontal movement lock; 2 - movable platform for choosing the angle of sharpening; 3 - bolt - vertical movement lock; c - a device for straightening and polishing a tool (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 rubber wheels with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft.
The location and movement of the tool during sharpening is shown in the figures.
Chamfering: a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; in - on chisels-corners: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer.
The position of the chisel during sharpening: 1 - straight chisel; 2 - semicircular and sloping; 3 - chisel - corner;
When sharpening it is necessary:
Maintain the specified angle of sharpening;
To maintain the shape of the blade, the chamfer should be even without traces of curling;
Blueing of the instrument is not allowed (prevent by periodic wetting of the instrument in water).
2. Edit. Under the editing of the tool is understood to increase the purity of sharpening the blade, deburring, improving sharpening. To edit the tool, microcorundum whetstones (Fig.), skins, and leather are used.
Sharpening a joint: a - sharpening parameters: 1 -
chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel;
b - the position of the hands at work;
For semicircular incisors, a dressing board is made of linden, cuts on its surface are transverse grooves for incisors of different sizes (Fig.).
Dressing boards and belts
1 - board with a set of profile bars and whetstones;
2 - dressing board with chisel profiles;
3 - leather or canvas belt for straightening.
Before editing, GOI paste is rubbed into the dressing board. inner surface semicircular incisors are ruled by round wooden twigs wrapped in fine sandpaper or leather rubbed with GOI paste. You can edit the instrument on a rotating felt wheel rubbed with GOI paste.
A properly sharpened tool must have a specified sharpening angle, blade shape, and no burrs.
When cutting across the grain of a pine or spruce board, the cutter should leave a clean cut without breaking the grain.
Literature:
1. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N.
House carving-M.: Niva Rossi together with the Eurasian Region Company, 1993-352 p.
2. Vetoshkin Yu.I., Startsev V.M., Zadimidko V.T.
Wooden arts: textbook. allowance. Yekaterinburg: Ural. state forest engineering un-t. 2012.
When working with a home tool, you should always keep it in perfect condition. This does not require much effort, but otherwise the work will not move much. Before sharpening a chisel, you need to carefully read the options for this work.
Preparation and work activities
Tools and materials:
- stones;
- chisel;
- water or oil;
- leather;
- paste GOI.
Before starting work, you need to clean the chisel from dirt and rust. Sometimes chips appear on a worn tool, which also need to be leveled with an emery stone. Otherwise, the result of the activity will be very sad.
Sometimes there are situations when it is impossible to manually remove upper layer from metal, which is why you have to resort to help emery wheel, literally cutting off all the particles from the surface. Usually you have to use this method to remove rust and stubborn dirt.
There are 2 types of whetstones that are used in manual and mechanical sharpening, with each of them having 3 levels (fine, medium and large):
- Water. Before use, they are soaked in a water bath for several minutes. This type is most often used in the countries of the East, except for especially arid ones (Mongolia).
- Oil. Before you start using them, you need to lubricate the stone with oil. Only synthetic petroleum-based oils are used, which is why Westerners have become adherents of this method.
Now you need to properly sharpen the cutter. To do this, follow the following sequence:
- Work on the flat side. The movement occurs evenly forward and backward along the same trajectory, after which the result is a mirror image. The movement occurs from the beginning to the very end of the stone, so that the wear is uniform.
- Now you can turn the chisel over to work with the main part. The cutter moves over a stone with a high grain size without jerks, but quickly enough over the entire surface. It is desirable to observe the angle from 20 to 35 degrees, depending on the desired result. If a chisel is needed for cutting work, then a sharp angle is required, while grinding and trimming do not require such a high sharpness.
- After the coarse grain becomes redundant (scratches appear), you need to switch to medium, and then, according to the same scheme, to the smallest. Some craftsmen can sharpen their cutter to such an extent that it cuts paper as well as a blade (micron sharpening), but this is only necessary when doing special work. fine workmanship, so you can get by with just fine grain.
- The chamfer is being sharpened. For this, 1.5-2 mm are allocated, which go under very acute angle(5-7 degrees), but here the quality should be unquestioning. This chamfer is formed in just a few movements, so it will not take much time.
- At the very end, you will need a piece of leather (it is optimal to have an old leather belt for this purpose), which is rubbed with GOI paste, after which a freshly sharpened chisel is corrected. The process itself is done with your own hands with fairly quick movements, but without much haste, so as not to cut through the skin.
This article is devoted to the actual process for any carver - sharpening cutting tool. In a previous article, I talked about sharpening flat chisels, but here we’ll look at how to properly sharpen semicircular chisels.
The only difficulty in sharpening semicircular chisels or special ones is their shape. This shortcoming can be corrected by doing wooden bars, the edge of which we plan in the shape of our chisel. Any tree will do, you can protect it from moisture by wrapping it with tape. Ideally, each shaped chisel needs its own individual bar, so as not to get confused, you can mark it with numbers.
For the lesson we need:
- Double-sided bar of silicon oxide.
- Plywood
- shaped bar
- Powder abrasive
- Sandpaper with abrasive grade R-400, R-800, R-1000, R-2000, I use sandpaper from auto stores.
- soap solution
- Paste GOI
So, let's begin. Wet our bar soapy water, let it soak and start sharpening. We press the chamfer to the abrasive and begin to make movements as shown in the figure.
As a burr is formed, we turn our chisel over, and take a shaped bar, cut sandpaper for it, you can glue it, or you can simply press it with your hand. I note that the smaller the abrasive gradation number, the coarser it is: That is, R-400 will be coarser than R-800, etc. I think that a separate article will be devoted to the abrasive.
By changing the abrasive, starting from coarse to fine, and not forgetting at the end about polishing and straightening the chisel, we achieve it razor sharp. Check the cleanliness of the cut.
Our lesson has come to an end. I wish you creative success and always sharp chisels.
