Rocket stove with stove bench. DIY Robinson rocket stove. Reactive oven

This device, despite our brave space achievements, is still unknown to few people in our country. And for sure, only a few are interested in how to make a rocket stove with their own hands, because they do not understand the principle of its operation.

This is a relatively new word in the domestic heating environment, coming from Germany. The key to unprecedented popularity in the homeland is a simple, cheap design coupled with high efficiency and the slightest absence of signs of soot. Considering that making your own equipment is not at all difficult, we will tell you how to do it, provide drawings, recommendations from specialists, videos and photos.

Principle of operation

Oddly enough, the name “rocket stove” itself has nothing to do with space or rockets themselves. The only analogy that can remotely remind us of this is a jet of flame rising upward in mobile installations.

The design feature of the furnace is the presence of a hood into which flue gases enter and where the final combustion of the sludge occurs. Under the hood, the temperature rises to 1000 0 C within the first 2 hours, as a result of which everything burns without sediment, and the exhaust is formed only in the form of steam and carbon. In this case, gases circulate freely through the channels without forced draft, which is usually created by a chimney pipe.

This design allows the stove to be used not only for heating the room, but also for heating food or water (on the hood). If the chimney is run through a certain area of the room, right up to the lounger, it will also heat up.

Among the main advantages of rocket stoves are the following:

high efficiency - 85%;
very fast heating of the room - 50 sq.m. in 45-60 minutes;
absence of soot and, as a result, soot deposits - at temperatures above 1000 degrees, everything burns without a trace;
the ability to use any solid fuel;
minimum consumption- at the same temperature and burning duration, a rocket stove consumes 4-5 times less fuel than a conventional stove.

The simplest rocket works according to the direct combustion formula - these are mobile structures that can be easily assembled in field conditions literally from scrap materials and can also be easily dismantled.

The simplest design from a barrel or gas cylinder

If we are talking only about the first stages of self-manufacturing a rocket stove (see video), then it is still worth starting the acquaintance with the simplest design. A camp stove is presented in the form of a bent section of pipe, where the fuel chamber and ash pan are combined.

For fuel, a steel plate is welded to the bottom, at the bottom of which a hole is cut for air intake.

You can use any straight cylindrical container for manufacturing - the drawing of a rocket furnace shows how the direct combustion process occurs.

Video 1 Simple design of a portable cooking rocket stove

Brick rocket stove in 20 minutes

If you have 20-30 bricks on hand, you can make a simple rocket stove with your own hands in just a few minutes. Moreover, no adhesives are needed for masonry.

Lay out a vertical combustion chamber from brick, as shown in the photo. In this case, the dishes are placed on the hood in such a way as not to interfere with the movement of released gases

Do-it-yourself rocket-type brick oven:

For such a design to work well, a warm pipe is needed. This term among stove makers means a preliminary run of wood chips and paper so that the pipe warms up. IN cold pipe There will be gas stagnation, which will make heating difficult. And if the pipe is warm, then when the wood is ignited, a powerful draft appears in the channel.

For reference. The above simplest designs made from a gas cylinder or pipe have a significant drawback - vertical loading of firewood. Each time you have to move the wood into the chamber when it burns out and only then add it. Stationary coal-fired rocket stoves or long burning They already provide for vertical laying, which greatly simplifies operation.

Long-burning rocket stove

Photo 6 Design of a stationary rocket furnace

DIY rocket jet stove diagram

In order to make such a unit with your own hands, you need to decide on the dimensions and structural elements.

How the rocket works:

As can be seen from the drawing, the diameter of the cap (D), which covers the top of the pipe, and its cross section (S) are taken as the basis.

Based on these indicators, the dimensions of the rocket furnace are calculated:

the height of the drum is 2 of its diameter;
the height of the clay coating is 2/3 of the height;
coating thickness - 1/3 of the diameter;
cross-sectional area of the pipe - 7% of its cross-section;
blower area - 1/2 of the pipe section;
the flame tube horizontally and vertically must be the same;
ash pan volume - 4-6% of the drum height;
The cross-sectional area of the external chimney is the double cross-section of the pipe.
the thickness of the insulating layer (adobe cushion) under the external chimney is 60 mm;
the thickness of the coating of the stove bench is 1/4 of the diameter of the drum;
external pipe height - 4000 mm;
The length of the flue directly depends on the diameter of the drum. If for its manufacture we took a metal container with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a volume of 200 liters, then the length of the flue pipe will be at least 6 meters. If the diameter is half as large, then the bed should be made up to 4 meters.

If you are making a stationary rocket stove with your own hands, be sure to pay attention to the lining of the top of the pipe. This is necessary to isolate the roaster from the walls of the oven to prevent overheating of the walls. Fireclay bricks can be used for lining.

Photos of examples of original performance

It is noteworthy that not only the walls need protection, but also the lining itself. In order to protect it from flammable gases, you can create a metal sheathing and fill it with river sand. For this purpose, you can use any available metal object - a barrel, a bucket, galvanized steel.

Sand is poured into the bucket layer by layer, with each layer being generously watered for proper compaction. When you have filled the protection to the top with sand, leave it to dry for 7-10 days.

The lining of the brazier is done much faster - fireclay bricks are laid on the clay mortar, and the space between the latter and the wall will also have to be filled with sand in layers - with water and time for drying.

Pipe lining diagram

All further work on the installation of a jet-type rocket furnace continues only after not only the lining, but also the clay protection, which is applied over the top cut, has dried.

Before you do stationary structure, practice on a traveling sample. After the first experience it will become clear even if you have not read the books on rocket stoves.

Disadvantages of the heating device

This device is often used to heat food or water - indeed, a huge amount of heat, a hot cap, why not use this idea? However, connecting a water circuit in order to heat the entire house and not a room is impossible. The design is so simple that any intervention, including a coil, will disrupt the progress of work.
Surprisingly, such a lightweight mobile heating device is completely unsuitable for either a bathhouse or a garage. Even with its high efficiency, a camping unit will not heat the air in the steam room to the required minimum. And in a garage or warehouse it is not recommended to use devices with direct open fire.

In this article we will give an example of a camp installation, which does not require any masonry or finishing materials.

Necessary materials:

2 buckets;
pipe from of stainless steel;
river sand or crushed stone for lining.

Step 1. Cut a hole in the side of one of the buckets along the diameter of the pipe at a height of 5 cm from the bottom. The height should be enough to pour crushed stone or sand into the bucket.

Step 2. Divide the pipe into 2 parts - a short loading section and a pancake elbow-chimney.

Step 2. Insert the pipe into the hole in the bucket.

Step 4. By analogy with step 1, cut a hole in the bucket, but directly in the bottom. The diameter of the hole corresponds to the diameter of the pipe. Insert the pipe.

Step 5. Pour sand or gravel into a bucket, which will act as a heat accumulator for the fire tube.

Step 6. Making legs or stand. For this purpose, ordinary reinforcement is suitable, which is bent under pressure and the base is cut out.

Rocket stove from a gas cylinder

This is a complicated, improved version, for the manufacture of which you will need an already used gas cylinder and a 4 mm rectangular pipe.

The scheme remains exactly the same with the only exception that flammable gases are discharged from the side through the hole, and not from above, as happens with field samples.

If there is a need to cook food or heat it, the upper part of the cylinder with the tap is cut off, and a flat plate is welded on top.

Video 2 Making a rocket oven with your own hands

If you plan to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder, then you don’t have to be afraid of difficulties. The steps to create equipment from such construction raw materials are quite simple:

the upper part is cut off from a cylinder with a volume of 50 liters in order to build a kind of cap;
The balloon is cut off at the top and bottom
Based on the instructions in the drawing, all parts of the product are welded to each other, that is, a gas cylinder, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (future chimney), a pipe with a diameter of 7 cm (internal channel) and another pipe with a diameter of 15 cm (fuel firebox);
Dimensions in mm
the space between the two pipes is filled with a material that retains heat, for example, sand, which has been thoroughly calcined, that is, cleared of organic substances;
To give the structure stability, the legs are welded.

To build a rocket stove with a stove bench, which involves the use of bricks, you need to proceed differently:

The area for arranging the firebox is deepened by removing 10 cm of soil. The combustion chamber is formed from fireclay bricks. Formwork is created along the contour of the structure being manufactured. To ensure a strong foundation, it is recommended to lay it in reinforcing mesh or metal rods;
The platform will harden in about two days
The structure is filled with liquid concrete. Then they wait for the solution to harden and finish the work. The bricks are laid in a continuous line, creating a platform for the stove. After this, the walls of the structure are formed, placing several rows of brick blocks;
The lower channel of the structure is constructed, with one line of bricks laid across to block the combustion chamber. The blocks are placed, leaving the vertical channel and the firebox opening open;
Two sectors of the furnace at this stage of construction should be open
They find a body from an old boiler and cut off the top and bottom covers on it. A flange is installed at the bottom of the resulting pipe through which a horizontal heat exchanger will pass. Parts need to be connected to each other with a continuous weld;
Work requires diligence
An outlet pipe is inserted into the barrel, after which they take a metal brush and scrape off the rust from the walls of the container. The cleaned barrel is treated with a primer, and a little later with paint that is resistant to high temperatures;
The horizontal chimney is connected by welding to the side outlet - the future ash pit. To facilitate its cleaning, a sealed flange is mounted;
Spread the flame tube of refractory bricks. At the same time, a channel 18 cm high and wide is formed inside the structure. When doing this, they constantly use a building level, which allows you to control the verticality of the product;
The height of the pipe is predetermined
The flame tube is covered with a protective casing, and the resulting gaps are sealed with perlite. The lower area of the vertical channel is sealed with damp clay, the function of which is to prevent spillage thermal insulation material on the floor;
From the boiler, on which the top and bottom have been cut off, a fuel tank is formed. A handle must be welded to it;
To improve the appearance, the structure is treated with adobe putty, consisting of sawdust and raw clay. The first component of the composition serves in the same way as crushed stone in concrete, that is, it prevents cracking of the furnace walls. It is recommended to apply adobe putty over perlite backfill;
They create the facade of the stove, for which the stove contour is laid out from stone, bricks, adobe and sand. The back side of the structure is filled with crushed stone, and the front side with adobe mixture, making the surface perfectly flat;
A metal barrel casing is placed on the previously created base. The lower pipe of the container is directed towards the bed. The bottom of the structure is treated with raw clay, which will ensure its tightness;
A channel made of corrugated pipe is connected to the combustion chamber. It will serve as a link between the firebox and the outside atmosphere;
At this stage the oven looks almost finished
A test firing of the stove is carried out, watching how the gases are removed from the horizontal chimney. After this, the heat exchanger pipes are connected to the lower pipe installed on a red brick platform;
The stove is equipped with a smoke exhaust pipe. The junction of the chimney and the heat generator is sealed with fire-resistant coating and asbestos cord;
Using clay and adobe, the bed is given the desired shape. Only the horizontal section of the structure is left unsealed, which will then be used during cooking.
The oven functions as a whole system

Jet device with a warm bed

One of the variations of such heating units is a rocket stove with a berth. It is based on the same principle of pyrolysis. The difference lies in the design of the heat exchanger itself. The long channels of the device are made of non-combustible materials and are interconnected. This structure is placed under the plane of the bed.

The ledge itself is a surface made of clay, stone or brick, inside which hot air circulates through the channels of the heat exchanger. During the operation of the jet furnace, the gas obtained by pyrolysis moves through the pipes under the bench, gives off heat and is discharged through the chimney located on the street. Its height reaches 3000-3500 mm.

The stove structure with a firebox is located near one of the edges of the stove bench. Often there is also a hob, with which a homemade rocket stove can also be used for cooking.

The stone or clay surface of the couch is covered with a wooden flooring or a mat made of bamboo or straw. This is necessary for the comfort of the user, because the bed serves as a sleeping place at night, and as a seat during the day. The peoples of Asia traditionally used the rocket stove for eating, equipping the stove with a special low table.

It is important to note that this type of furnace device uses fuel resources quite economically. An armful of medium-thick dry branches is enough to heat the unit.

Due to the fact that a brick rocket stove retains heat for a long time, by heating it once in the evening, you can enjoy the created comfort all night long, without worrying about adding fuel again.

The easiest way is to make a small portable stove with your own hands - the Robinson rocket, whose drawing is presented below. You will need cutting profile pipes, metal for legs and stands, as well as skills in carrying out welding work. Moreover, compliance with the exact dimensions indicated in the drawing is not necessary. You can take pipes of a different section, but you just need to reduce or increase them proportionally so that the parts fit together.

Drawing of an improved Robinson camping stove with nozzles made of a profile pipe, cut lengthwise into 2 parts

Note

Please note that the drawing shows a design improved by our expert. As befits a rocket, improvised nozzles are attached to it, which receives secondary air for afterburning, which enters the pipe through a series of holes

Due to this modernization, the combustion intensity increases noticeably. For more information about the operation of a compact wood stove, watch the video:

The most common versions of large rocket stoves are made from a gas cylinder or a two-hundred-liter metal barrel. You must understand that these ready-made elements are used as an outer hood, and the internal parts of the stove must be made from pipes of smaller diameter or laid out from fireclay bricks. Moreover, from a cylinder you can make both a stationary heater with a small bench, and a unit that can be moved.

It should be noted right away that calculating the thermal power of a rocket-type furnace is quite difficult, since there is no single methodology for this. It’s easier to rely on ready-made drawings of already working samples and assemble according to them. You just need to compare the dimensions of the future stove with the dimensions of the heated room. For example, for heating small room The size of the cylinder is enough, in other cases it is better to take a large barrel. The selection of internal parts for them is shown in the diagram:

Stove rocket from a cylinder

In addition to the gas cylinder itself, to assemble the stove you will need:

profile pipe 150 x 150 mm for the firebox and loading hopper;
steel pipes with a diameter of 70 and 150 mm will go to the internal vertical channel;
the same with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney;
insulation (basalt fiber with a density of at least 100 kg/m³);
sheet metal 3 mm thick.

For a master skilled in welding, this work will not present much difficulty. The top of the cylinder should be cut off along the seam, after first unscrewing the valve and filling it to the top with water. Openings are cut on both sides for installing a firebox and inserting a chimney. A profile pipe is inserted and connected to a vertical channel, which is discharged through the bottom of the cylinder. Further work on the manufacture of the rocket furnace is carried out in accordance with the drawing:

At the end, the upper part must be welded into place, then carefully check all seams for permeability so that air does not flow uncontrollably into the oven. After this, you can attach a chimney with a water jacket (if available) and begin testing.

Important. To create sufficient draft, the top of the pipe must be raised above the level of the firebox to a height of 4 m

Masonry of a rocket-type heater made of bricks

This stove option will require the purchase of fireclay bricks; ordinary ceramic bricks will not work for a rocket stove. The masonry is done using fireclay clay mortar, this is also commercially available. First you need to dig a hole, compact the bottom and pour a foundation measuring 1200 x 400 mm and 100 mm high, as shown in the photo:

After hardening, the foundation is covered with a sheet of basalt cardboard and the combustion chamber, a bunker for loading firewood and a vertical channel are laid. A door is installed at the end of the combustion chamber to clean the ash pan. When the clay has dried, the pit is filled up, and a pre-selected pipe or small barrel with a diameter of 450 mm is placed on the vertical channel. The gap between the brickwork and the pipe walls is filled with fire-resistant insulation, for example, basalt wool.

On last stage a cap made of a large metal barrel with a diameter of 600 mm is put on the structure. First, a cutout is made in its upper part and a pipe is installed to connect the chimney. When the barrel turns over, he will be at the bottom. Then it’s a matter of technology; you can take the chimney directly outside or build another bench with smoke circulation. For this purpose, ordinary ceramic bricks and clay-sand mortar will do. Order brickwork a rocket stove with a small bench are shown in detail in the video:

Making a rocket oven

The easiest way to make a light camping stove, shown in the drawing, is to find household following materials:

round steel pipe with a diameter of 133-150 mm and a length of 0.5 m;
profile pipe 14 x 20 cm, length 0.4 m;
sheet of metal 2-3 mm thick for grates;
rod Ø8-10 mm for legs;
scraps of iron for the stand.

A vertical round pipe is welded to the profile at an angle of 45°, then eyes for the legs are attached to the body (they should be easily removed). A grate is placed inside the inclined firebox, and a lid is attached to the outside. To make it easier to clean the ash below, it is advisable to install a second door.

Advice. Be sure to weld a stand to the upper edge of the fire channel - gases must penetrate between the bottom of the dish and the body, otherwise “rocket” thrust will not occur.

Drawing of an improved version of the portable stove

The design of the furnace can be improved by organizing the supply of secondary air inside the flame tube. Modernization will increase the efficiency and duration of firewood burning. Drill holes on both sides on both sides, covering them with rocket “nozzles” according to the presented drawing. How this stove functions is demonstrated in the video:

From a gas cylinder

The following materials will be used to make a do-it-yourself rocket stove:

round pipes with transverse dimensions of 70 and 150 mm; with a wall thickness of 4 mm;
square corrugated pipe 150-200 mm in diameter;
chimney pipe Ø10-15 cm;
low-carbon steel (grade St20) sheet;
dense basalt wool (80-120 kg/m3) or loose fire resistant materials, for example, vermiculite or perlite gravel.

To begin, cut the rolled metal into blanks in accordance with the drawing. Then you need to saw off the lid of the propane tank, after unscrewing the valve and filling the tank to the top with water. The tool is an ordinary grinder with a metal circle.

Further assembly technology is as follows:

Cut the corrugated pipe lengthwise, 35 mm from the edge. One part will be used to make an ash pan, the second - a blower.
Join the firebox and flame tube at an angle of 90°, making appropriate cutouts. Cut an opening on top of the combustion chamber where the loading hopper will be welded.
Weld the riser with the firebox, then put on the casing from a 150 mm pipe, making a cutout at the bottom to fit the width of the combustion chamber.
Install and scald the bunker for storing firewood. Secure the doors of the firebox and ash pan.
Pour perlite sand between the walls of the afterburner and the shell.
Make a side opening in the balloon to insert the finished structure. The lid is best made removable.
Produce final assembly and weld the chimney pipe.

Details about production rocket stove from the balloon the master will tell in the video:

Made of brick

The simplest rocket stove for cooking can be built from bricks without using mortar, as shown in the diagram with the order. Such a structure can be easily disassembled and moved if necessary.

The rocket stove with a stove bench must be placed on a foundation made of concrete or rubble stone. Material – ceramic or refractory brick, sand-clay or fireclay mortar, respectively. The finished base is covered with roofing felt for the purpose of waterproofing, then a continuous first row of bricks is laid. The further work order looks like this:

Lay out the firebox, placing the bricks "on edge". In the same way, cover the chamber, leaving an opening for loading firewood and a riser.
Build an afterburner pipe from 9 rows of stones installed “on edge” with ligation.
Place a pipe or tin buckets on the riser, fill the resulting cavity with insulation or regular sand.
Place the barrel upside down with the flue gas outlet at the bottom.
Build a brick bed from 3-4 horizontal channels.
Coat the barrels and benches with clay mortar.

Important. The construction is carried out in compliance with the rules of stove masonry, described

The length of the smoke channels inside the stove is limited by the draft in the rocket stove and the external chimney. It is better to keep the total length of the flue pipes within 4 m. To prevent the heater from smoking back into the room, raise the top of the chimney to a height of 5 m, counting from the grate. How to build brick stove– a rocket without a barrel, look at the video:

Design and principle of operation

Rocket furnaces have virtually nothing to do with the design of rocket engines or jet turbines. On the contrary, they are extremely simple in design, in contrast to the above devices. The similarity is noticeable only in the quietly noisy flame and high combustion temperature - all this is observed after the stove reaches operating mode.

Let's consider the design of rocket furnaces - they consist of the following elements:

Firebox – a vertical or horizontal section in which firewood is burned;
Combustion chamber (aka flame tube, riser) - here the process of fuel combustion occurs with the release of large quantity heat;
Blower - necessary for the correct operation of the stove and the start of the combustion process of pyrolysis gases;
Thermal insulation – envelops the vertical part, forming a drum together with the body;
Bed – used for its intended purpose;
Chimney - removes combustion products into the atmosphere, creating draft;
Dish rack – ensures unhindered heat escape.

Depending on the type of rocket furnace, certain elements may be missing.

Rocket stoves with vertical fireboxes (fuel bunkers) and blowers are the most efficient and convenient - large volumes of fuel are placed here, which ensures long-term combustion.

The most important part of the rocket furnace is the vertical drum. This is where the highest temperature is observed, as flames burst out here

In order for it to start working, it must be thoroughly warmed up. Without this, the combustion process will be weak. To warm up, paper, cardboard, small chips or thin branches are placed in the firebox. As soon as the system warms up, the flame in the drum will begin to burn out with a humming sound, which is a sign that it has reached operating mode.

A rocket (jet) stove without a blower burns wood in a direct way. It is simpler, but less efficient. The model with a blower supplies secondary air to the base of the riser, which causes intense combustion of flammable pyrolysis gases. This increases the efficiency of the unit.

The fireboxes in rocket stoves are located horizontally or vertically (at any angle). Horizontal fireboxes are not very convenient, since the firewood in them has to be moved to the combustion zone manually, independently. Vertical combustion chambers are more convenient - we load fuel into them and go about our business. As the logs burn, they will fall down, independently moving towards the combustion zone.

Features of operating a rocket furnace

Before loading the main fuel, the stove must be warmed up. This applies more to large and multifunctional rocket stoves. In them, without preheating, thermal energy will be wasted.
To accelerate the furnace, dry paper, wood shavings, and straw are placed in an open ash pit. Sufficient heating of the furnace can be determined by the hum in the furnace, which subsequently subsides. Then the main fuel is placed into the heated rocket stove, which is ignited by the booster fuel.
At the beginning of combustion of the main fuel, the ash door is opened completely. After a while, when the stove hum appears, the vent is covered until the hum is replaced by a whisper. In the future, to assess the state of combustion of the stove, you also need to focus on the “stove sound”, opening the ash door slightly when it subsides and closing it when a hum occurs.
The larger the jet stove, the smaller the opening for fresh air is needed. It is advisable to use a separate blower in such a furnace.
The power of the furnace can be adjusted only by the volume of fuel added, but not by the air supply.
When making a large rocket stove yourself, its bunker should be made with a tight-fitting lid, without gaps or cracks. Otherwise, stable operating conditions of the furnace will not be ensured, which can result in the consumption of excess fuel energy.
Contrary to popular belief, a rocket stove for a sauna is not suitable for installation, since the stove does not emit infrared radiation in sufficient quantities, which is necessary for heating the walls and transmitting convection into the air masses in a sauna. A rocket stove for a bath, theoretically, can only be installed using furnace type Shirokov-Khramtsov, whose characteristics are given below.
A rocket stove for a garage is a mobile version of a stove design that can quickly heat a room. The main element is a heating tank made of pipe.

Fuel types

With proper assembly and operation, a rocket stove can be fired by any type solid fuel, wood and its waste. For example, branches, leaves, firewood, coal, corn stalks, cones, pieces of chipboard, pieces of furniture. Fuel can be loaded into the stove in either dry or raw form. This is especially true for its operation in natural conditions, where it is not always possible to find dry raw materials.

Types of stoves for different operating conditions

A rocket stove with a water circuit, brick or metal, can replace a boiler. The heat exchanger here is arranged in the upper part of the flame tube in the form of a surrounding water jacket. There are jumpers inside the jacket for more efficient heat transfer to the coolant. The design is extremely simple; it can heat households up to several tens of square meters.

A rocket stove for the garage can be made from an old pot-bellied gas cylinder or barrel. To do this, two holes are made in the selected container - one in the top lid and the other on the side surface. An L-shaped pipe is inserted inside. With little experience with welding machine, all work will take you a maximum of half an hour.

You can also make a rocket-type furnace described above from sections of square and metal pipe according to the drawing given.

Also suitable for heating a garage is the heating rocket stove “Ognivo – Khozyain”. This is a store-bought model made from aluminum corrugated pipe and ordinary sheet iron. It works in approximately the same way and allows you to warm a garage of up to 30 square meters. m.

There are no drawings of it in the public domain yet, so you can try to assemble the “Ognivo” stove with your own hands based on its photograph. You can also buy it on the manufacturer's website.

We have already said that to heat large households you will need a long-burning rocket stove with a water circuit. A small one-room household can be heated with a simpler stove and a stove bench - this way you will save space on furniture. It consists of the following nodes:

Firebox with vertical loading - logs are placed in it;
Afterburner is a horizontal section in front of the riser (flame tube), where pyrolysis combustion occurs;
A riser with a hob is a vertical section with a metal body that transfers heat into the room;
Horizontal channels - they heat the stove bench, after which the combustion products are sent into the chimney.

A rocket stove for heating a one-room house is coated with clay to create a flat and comfortable bed - here you can lay a mattress or a small blanket.

For camping use, the most simple ovens rocket type, made of metal pipes. They are compact, easy to light and extinguish, cool quickly and allow you to quickly prepare lunch in the open air. The main thing is not to overdo it with the amount of fuel loaded, so as not to burn the food with a high-temperature flame.

Operating principle

Despite the simplicity of the design, the rocket stove involves the use of two operating principles at once:

free flow of wood gases through channels;
pyrolysis is the afterburning of gases that are released during combustion.

The simplest rocket stove uses only the first principle of operation, since there are not enough conditions for pyrolysis.

A neat, homemade rocket stove

First, let's look at the options for jet stoves used for cooking. In such a device, a short pipe located horizontally is used as a firebox, and then it is directed upward. This is the simplest design.

Fuel is placed into the rocket stove directly into the pipe, after which it is ignited. As a result, a flow of hot gases is formed, which is oriented to go out, which means it tends to the vertical section.

At the end of the pipe there is a container used for water or food. There is a gap between it and the pipe so that combustion products can escape.

Many people are interested in why such a stove is called a rocket. The design has a nozzle turned upward, from which, when the device is operating, a flame bursts out. Hence the name.

Flames escaping from a rocket stove

Of course, such a unit will not be able to warm up the room. The rocket furnace must be supplemented with a heat exchanger, as well as channels for removing combustion products. To ensure high temperatures, the vertical part of the pipe is insulated with fire-resistant material.

The nozzle can be covered with a cap. This is necessary for high-quality heat selection. From below horizontal section pipe, a channel is created for supplying secondary air.

The modern version involves a slightly different design. Such a reactive furnace involves the afterburning of pyrolysis gases, which is possible due to the supply of secondary air. In addition, combustion products collect under the top of the hood, which increases the pressure to excess. Over time, heat is transferred outward through the walls of the pipe, forcing the gases to cool and flow downward. Hot air awaits them there, so they have to go into the space between the walls of the hood and the pipe, going into the chimney channel.

Application of a rocket stove with a hood on the site

Due to pyrolysis processes, efficiency increases significantly. And thanks to the flow of gases, a self-regulating system is organized.

Jet furnaces, product drawings

Rocket stoves are divided into portable and stationary. The first devices are smaller in size and have a simpler design. She reminds inverted letter "G". Fuel is placed in the lower crossbar. Thanks to the vertical shape of the main part, natural traction occurs.

Photo 1. Drawing and finished version of a metal rocket stove with dimensions, left and top view.

As the temperature rises, the device works more and more efficiently. Its power is enough to quickly heat water for cooking. for several people. To prevent the wood from burning out too quickly, you need to regulate the draft in the stove. To do this, close or close the fuel door completely.

Portable jet stoves mass-produced. Most popular models "Robinson" and "Ognivo". Due to the simplicity of the design, you can make them yourself.

Stationary devices are somewhat more complicated. The air ducts in the hood are made in such a way that the heated air first rises. Transferring heat to the inner walls, it gradually falls down. Then it passes into the chimney located at the bottom.

Photo 2. Drawing of a rocket furnace made of bricks and a metal barrel. The arrows show parts of the device.

This stove is quite economical to use, since it burns not only firewood, but also pyrolysis gases. The chimney duct of the stove is sometimes not taken out of the room immediately, but is carried out inside a stove bench made of brick and/or clay. Such a couch heats the room to a comfortable temperature. The structure itself is made from large diameter pipes, barrels or bricks.

Important! The device needs preheating before the firebox. First, paper, newspaper, or something else flammable is lit

And only firewood is placed in a warmed-up firebox.

Brick long-burning rocket stove

Since brick accumulates heat, such devices are well suited for heating rooms. Taking into account the duration of burning, one bookmark of fuel is enough for 6-8 hours maintaining a comfortable temperature.

Sometimes the oven is made entirely of brick. The only fittings (doors) you will need are steel or cast iron. In other cases, the outer part of the stove hood is made from a barrel or wide pipe.

Attention! A brick oven requires a separate foundation, separate from the one being built for the building itself. It is advisable to plan its location before construction begins.

A device made of a pipe with a water circuit, diagram

The furnace structure is welded from iron pipes of different diameters.

If you intend to heat a small room, the furnace hood can be made from waste gas cylinder.

In a house of a more impressive size, suitable for these purposes iron barrel.

If you install a water circuit on the stove chimney, you can get a long-burning boiler that will heat the room well.

The water circuit is usually made from gas cylinders.

"Robinson"

This is a simple and reliable camp stove. She's quite capable quickly (in 10 minutes) boil a liter water. In this case, you do not need to lay firewood.

The design was developed back in the last century, but due to its advantages it is still used today. "Robinson" is mass-produced, but it is easy to assemble it yourself.

"Flint"

This oven is similar to the previous version. But the combustion chamber in it shorter and at a more obtuse angle in relation to the chimney. This stove is shaped like an inverted letter “G”.

Step-by-step instruction

Here is an approximate procedure that should be followed when making this stove:

Making a firebox

The firebox is welded using steel pipe or sheets. The firebox lid must close tightly. It should be made of a steel sheet, around the perimeter of which a strip of basalt cardboard is fixed with screws or rivets. For a tighter closure, the lid can be equipped with a screw clamping mechanism.

This is what the firebox and ash pan look like in a simple rocket stove

The ash chamber (indicated in the diagram as Primary Ash Pit) is separated from the main part of the firebox by a grate welded from a rod with a diameter of 8–10 mm. The grille should be installed on corner shelves that are welded to the inner walls.

The door of the ash chamber must also be airtight. It is made from a steel sheet, to which a steel strip is welded in two rows along the entire perimeter. An asbestos cord or basalt cardboard is placed in the groove between these strips.

All that remains is to weld the fire tube to the firebox.

Primary chimney

A 90-degree bend and a small section of pipe must be welded to the pipe that serves as the primary chimney, after which this L-shaped structure is placed inside a barrel or cylinder, that is, the future drum.
The outlet with a piece of pipe welded to it should be brought out into one of the openings in the lower part of the drum so that the primary chimney is located strictly in the center. Let us remind you that the upper cut of the pipe must be located at least 70 mm below the upper edge of the barrel (cylinder).
After centering the primary chimney, its horizontal tail, which was brought out into the opening in the drum, is welded to its edges with a continuous seam along the entire perimeter.
After this, the shank of the primary chimney is welded to the flame pipe, and a tire is welded to the drum on top.
A short piece of pipe should be welded to the second opening in the drum, which will act as a secondary ash pan. It needs a cleaning window. Along its edges, you need to butt-weld the studs to which the lid will be screwed (remember that we decided not to install the door in this place, since we have to open it quite rarely).
A strip of basalt cardboard should be secured along the perimeter of the lid with screws or rivets.

Chimney installation

We weld the horizontal part of the chimney to the outlet of the secondary ash pan, on which the stove bench will subsequently be installed. If the flue is supposed to be made of metal corrugation, then first you need to weld a short pipe to the ash pan, and then attach the corrugation to it using a clamp.

On final stage an external chimney is attached to the horizontal flue.

Furnace lining

The metal part of the stove is ready; now it needs to be properly plastered with heat-insulating and heat-accumulating compounds.

The lining of the combustion part (up to the primary chimney) should be done with a mixture of stove clay and broken fireclay bricks, taken in a 1:1 ratio.

Primary chimney lining

The materials used for lining the primary chimney - light fireclay brick or river sand - are porous, so when open they will quickly become saturated with soot and lose thermal insulation properties. To prevent this, the lining on the primary chimney is protected with a thin-walled steel casing, and the ends are coated with oven clay.

In accordance with the square-cube law, the ratio of the volume and surface area of the drum depends on its diameter, therefore the lining of the primary chimney is made differently depending on the size of the furnace. Three options are shown in the figure.

Primary chimney lining options

If the lining is made with fireclay bricks, the cavities between its fragments must be filled with construction sand. If river sand rich in alumina is used, you have to resort to more complex technology:

The sand is cleaned of large debris (careful preparation is not required).
A thin layer is poured into the casing, compacted and wetted so that a crust forms.
Subsequent layers are poured in the same way. There should be from 5 to 7 in total.
The sand lining is dried for one week, then the top is covered with oven clay and the manufacture of the oven continues.

The last step is to coat all parts of the stove with adobe. It is prepared from the following ingredients:

clay;
straw (14–16 kg per 1 m3 of clay);
sand (in small quantities);
water.

The straw to clay ratio shown is approximate. In some types of clay, more straw can be added, in others, on the contrary, its amount must be reduced.

Construction of a brick rocket stove

A heater has similar technical properties as a metal structure, however, the construction of a brick rocket stove is a labor-intensive process that requires additional financial costs and time.

The cap of a stone rocket stove should be made from a barrel. For safety and ease of use, the stove structure, except for the hood, must be lowered down by digging a hole under the floor. The bottom must be compacted and filled with concrete mortar, in simple words - to make a foundation. Thickness concrete covering should be more than 10.0 cm. In order for the foundation to become strong and the brick laying process can begin on it, you will need to wait about 3 days until the mortar completely hardens. After this period, you can begin to build the walls of the rocket furnace.

For masonry, only refractory Construction Materials, namely:

Fire-resistant clay mortar;
Fire bricks.

After installation is completed, you should wait until the solution hardens and the structure becomes complete, strong and reliable. An iron barrel without a bottom is installed on top of the fire channel, and the gap between the barrel and the brick is filled with insulation. When processing the end, you must use the same fire-resistant clay mortar. The largest barrel is placed on top, and a chimney pipe is attached to its lower part.

How to make it yourself

Before you make a rocket furnace, you need to decide on the place of its installation, with the dimensions of the future design, and develop a diagram. The technology of masonry itself is quite simple, any novice builder can master it.

The simplest design of a rocket stove can be built from 20 bricks in a summer cottage and used to heat food brought from home.

Selecting a location

Before starting construction, the first thing is to choose a location. brick ovens rocket type is recommended to be placed closer to front door. In this case, the ash after cleaning will not need to be carried through the entire room, which will positively affect the overall dust content of the room.

It is also desirable that at the point where the pipe exits there are no rafters located closer to the chimney than 40 cm. And yet, the stove should not be adjacent to the external wall of the house, so that expensive heat is not lost to heating the street.

Preparation of the solution

Cement mortar under influence high temperatures It will crack quickly, so for laying brick heating devices, only a solution consisting of clay and sand is used.

Their proportions are determined experimentally, depending on the quality of the clay. Most often in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, and the higher the fat content of the clay, the less it is added to the solution.

First, the clay must be soaked, strained, and then sand must be added. The resulting solution should have a consistency similar to thick sour cream. You can check its viscosity level in the following way:

place a wooden stick or trowel handle into the mixture;
remove the tool and shake well;
check the thickness of the adhering layer: if less than 2 mm add clay, more than 3 mm - sand.

The preparation of the mortar must be approached with all responsibility, since only a plastic mixture of the required density can fill all the irregularities of the bricks and ensure their strong adhesion.

Laying a rocket furnace of 20 bricks

Ordering a rocket stove for 20 bricks

Example of a brick rocket stove

Laying a rocket stove with a stove bench

A brick rocket stove, even equipped with a stove bench, is small in size. The order shown in the figures (below) allows you to assemble the structure without the use of metal products. Only the doors will be made of iron. Subsequently, the body can be coated with clay to give it a more rounded shape.

Row No.	Number of bricks, pcs.	Description of the masonry	Drawing
1	62	Forming the base of the furnace	(click to enlarge)
2	44	Formation of the base of channels for heating the bed along the entire structure. Fastening mortgages for mounting a cast iron door
3	44	Repeating the outline of the second row
4	59	Complete channel blocking. Beginning of the formation of a vertical smoke channel and firebox
5	60	Construction of a bed	(click to enlarge)
6	17	Continuation of the laying of the smoke channel
7	18
8	14
9; 10	14	Formation of a smoke channel	(click to enlarge)
11	13
12	11	Beginning of laying the chimney pipe. This is where the channel begins, through which the air from the hob will fall down to move to the stove bench
13	10	Completion of the formation of the surface for the hob. Laying an asbestos pad, which is covered with sheet steel.	(click to enlarge)
14; 15	5	Closing the chimney channel and forming a low wall between the bench and hob.

After completing the masonry work, the home-made rocket stove must be dried, carefully, by heating at low intensity. First, no more than 20% of the firewood norm is laid in the firebox, and the device is heated twice a day for 30-40 minutes

According to this scheme, the stove is heated until its outer surface is cleared of damp stains. Depending on the size of the device, drying may take from three to eight days. During this time, the room should be well ventilated, especially in summer.

Accelerating drying can lead to cracking of the masonry, that is, the device will become unsuitable for further heating.

Finished look

Types of rocket stoves

In this section, we will consider the most common types of rocket stoves used in field and stationary conditions.

Simple metal stoves

The simplest wood-fired jet stove is made from an L-shaped piece of large-diameter metal pipe. The horizontal part is short, it represents the firebox. The combustion chamber is located in the vertical part of the pipe, firewood is actively burning here. A small metal plate is often welded into the horizontal section, forming a blower. After warming up, the rocket furnace enters operating mode, and a flame bursts out of its vertical section (flame tube).

Such rocket stoves are used for cooking food in camping or outdoor conditions - due to their small area, they produce little heat, and the vast majority of the thermal energy is lost through the fire tube. Kettles, frying pans and pots are placed on this pipe so that the raging flame ensures their heating. To maintain traction, there are stands in the upper part of the pipe, on which the dishes are placed - combustion products can freely come out.

To make a metal rocket furnace made from an L-shaped piece of pipe more efficient, it is equipped with a metal casing made from an old barrel. A blower can be seen at the bottom of the barrel, and a fire tube peeks out from the top. If necessary, the internal volume is filled with insulation, for example, ash - it does not burn and retains heat well.

Metal rocket stoves with vertical fireboxes located at an angle to the flame tube are the most convenient. Often the combustion openings are closed with lids; in this case, air is taken through the ash pan. Sometimes the firebox is made larger in diameter than the flame tube to ensure long-lasting combustion.

Simple brick ovens

A small-sized brick rocket stove is another simplest option for building a rocket stove with your own hands. Its assembly does not require cement mortar; it is enough to stack the bricks on top of each other to get a convenient brick outdoor unit for cooking at your disposal. In the section on self-assembly rocket stoves, we will offer you to familiarize yourself with the simplest procedure for self-assembly.

A rocket stove, made with your own hands from brick, can be used to heat households. In this case, a simple arrangement is not enough - you will have to build a stationary version using a special cement mortar. There are many procedures for this, you just have to choose the appropriate option. By the way, some versions of such furnaces include a water circuit.

Advantage of brick rocket kilns:

Simple design;
Long-term heat retention;
The ability to create a comfortable warm bed.

Some models are made combined, using both steel and bricks.

Sophisticated rocket stoves

A jet stove for heating households or for a bath is characterized by increased complexity. The main link here is still the riser (fire tube), enclosed in a metal casing. Its upper part can be used for cooking, forming a kind of cooking surface. The firebox is made large to accommodate an increased amount of solid fuel. The starting materials are metal, bricks and clay.

Based on clay coating, streamlined rocket furnaces of irregular shape are made, which is well perceived by human vision.

There are projects for wood-burning rocket stoves that include additional modules. Schemes for their construction include small boilers for preparing hot water, hobs, water jackets and even small ovens. Such stoves will help heat households and create comfortable conditions for human habitation.

A rocket boiler with a water jacket, created on the basis of a wood-burning stove, will help warm up a multi-room building. It is equipped with a water circuit for heating the coolant. Additional convenience is created by samples with beds - these beds are created on the basis of thermal channels between the flame and chimney pipes.

Assembling a rocket stove with your own hands

The easiest way to assemble a camping and garden version of a jet stove. To do this, you do not have to purchase masonry materials and prepare adobe for coating.

Several metal buckets, a stainless steel pipe for the fire channel and small crushed stone for backfilling - that’s all you need to make a rocket stove with your own hands.

The first step is to cut a hole in the bottom bucket with tin snips to allow the flame tube to pass through. It must be done at such a height that there is room under the pipe for crushed stone backfill.

The second step is to install a fire pipe in the lower bucket, consisting of two elbows: a short loading one and a long one for the gases to escape.

The third step is to cut a hole in the bottom of the top bucket that fits over the bottom one. The head of the frying tube is inserted into it so that its cut is 3-4 cm above the bottom.

The fourth is pouring small crushed stone into the lower bucket to half its height. It is needed to accumulate heat and thermally insulate the heat channel.

The last step is making a coaster for dishes. It can be welded from round reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

A more complex, but at the same time durable, powerful and aesthetic version of the rocket stove requires the use of a gas cylinder and a thick steel pipe of rectangular cross-section.

The assembly diagram does not change. The gas outlet here is organized at the side, not at the top. To prepare food, the top part with the valve is cut off from the cylinder and a flat round plate 4-5 mm thick is welded in its place.

How does a rocket stove work?

Although the design of the “rocket” is simple, it contains two principles of fuel combustion, borrowed from other solid fuel stoves:

Natural circulation of hot gases and smoke through the stove channels is a standard solution, as in a potbelly stove;
Afterburning of unburned gases (pyrolysis) with limited access of oxygen to the combustion chamber.

The design of the simplest reactive stove, which is intended only for cooking, uses precisely the natural combustion of wood - in an open chamber it is impossible to create conditions for maintaining the pyrolysis reaction and the afterburning of unburned gases.

Let's consider a simple design of a direct combustion rocket stove, which is traditionally installed in an open area in the yard. You can quickly heat a certain amount of water on it, or prepare lunch for your family on vacation. From the figure below it becomes clear that to make such a sample you will need two pieces of cylindrical or rectangular iron pipe, which are connected to each other by welding at an angle of 900.

The simplest rocket device

A horizontal section of a metal box acts as a combustion chamber; firewood is placed there. Fuel loading can also be organized vertically - simply add a vertical iron cylinder on top of the horizontal pipe into which firewood will be loaded. Thus, you will get a structure of three pipes or boxes, the lowest of which (horizontal) will work as a firebox. In a stationary scheme, the simplest design of such a stove often uses ordinary red brick, which is placed on a clay mortar.

The efficiency of such a design cannot be called satisfactory, so the craftsmen came up with another scheme that increases the efficiency of the “rocket”. An additional element of this improvement is another pipe of a larger diameter (as you can see, all materials are available and cheap), into which the main pipe of the riser stove (primary chimney) is installed. This way you can increase the overall heating of the stove and the duration of heat retention.

Scheme of a furnace with an insulated riser

On the diagram:

Outer casing made of pipe;
A pipe that serves as a firebox;
Channel for air outlet into the combustion chamber;
Insulated area between the body and the riser. The same ash can serve as insulation.

Manufacturing a modernized Robinson furnace

The model described in the previous section can be improved with a door that is installed on the fuel hopper. But if you make the sash on hinges, it will simply tilt upward, which will not allow you to adjust the draft. Such a part can only be in the “closed” or “open” position. It will be much more effective to use a damper that moves vertically or horizontally. To install it, you need to weld small corners measuring 10x10 mm or 15x15 mm onto the hopper.

In addition, the following options for modernizing the furnace are noted:

the fuel hopper can be made of thicker steel, for example 5 mm;
replace the round chimney pipe with a square one;
for the stand, use a different design: as an option, take corners, balls or other elements that are at hand;
change the stand for the camping rocket stove, for which a metal plate and a piece of reinforcement can be used to make a leg.

To make a modernized stove, you will need the following: materials:

Square pipe with a cross-section of 160×160 mm and a length of 400 mm. The firebox will be made from it.
Square pipe with a cross-section of 120×120 mm and a length of 600 mm. It is needed to make a chimney.
A five-millimeter sheet of steel and a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 7-8 mm. The element separating the fuel compartment and the ash duct will be made from them. The size of the part should be 300×155 mm.
Steel sheet 350×180 mm. This material is necessary for the manufacture of a stove stand.
Steel sheet measuring 160×100 mm.

Production technology for this model of camping stove is not fundamentally different from creating similar structures:

A metal plate with a grate must be welded to the walls of the bunker.
Then the back of the container is attached, and the chimney is attached on top.
When the entire structure is ready, a metal stand is welded to it from below, and an additional support is made from a piece of reinforcement. You can also use part of the vertical pipe that remains after cutting.
Pieces of corners are welded on top of the vertical pipe, which will form a stand for dishes. Its height should be 40-50 mm.
The hole in the fuel tank must be closed with a hinged door or a flap inserted into the corners.
The finished product can be tested. If everything went well, the welds are cleaned and the reaction furnace is coated with heat-resistant paint. This will not only give the product a more attractive appearance, but will also protect the metal from corrosion.

Jet heating unit from a propane cylinder

A rocket stove made from a gas cylinder is an easy-to-make wood-burning stove that uses fuel economically and effectively warms up the room.

For its assembly it is used:

empty propane cylinder (unit body);
steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm (for arranging a chimney and a vertical channel);
steel profile pipe 150x150 mm (firebox and loading hopper are made);
sheet steel 3 mm thick.

Making a stove from a gas cylinder requires the use of a welding machine. If you plan to assemble such a rocket stove with your own hands, the drawings will help you accurately follow optimal sizes all structural elements.

Scheme of processes in a rocket furnace

On preliminary stage Before starting work, you should prepare a gas cylinder - turn off the valve, fill the container to the top with water to ensure that gas vapors that can explode from a spark are removed from the container. Then the top part is cut off along the seam. A hole is cut in the lower part of the resulting cylinder for the chimney, and in the bottom for the combustion chamber with an attached firebox. The vertical channel is brought out through a hole in the bottom, and a structure from a profile pipe is welded on the bottom side, according to the rocket drawing.

Attention! The sheet metal cover should be made removable and a non-flammable seal (asbestos cord) should be provided for reliable sealing. The flat lid is used as a cooking surface.
. If you are installing a rocket stove from a gas cylinder yourself, you should pay close attention to the quality of the welds and check their tightness - air should not flow uncontrollably into the working stove

If everything is in order, you can install the chimney.

If you are installing a rocket stove from a gas cylinder yourself, you should pay close attention to the quality of the welds and check their tightness - air should not flow uncontrollably into the working stove. If everything is in order, you can install the chimney.

Important! The top of the chimney must be raised to a height of 4 meters relative to the level of the firebox in order to ensure the required draft intensity.

Such a home stove is regulated in power by the volume of fuel loading. The jet stove is put into operation by supplying air through the combustion chamber; this is regulated by the hopper lid. Next, secondary air is constantly supplied to the unit. This heating stove explodes at the end of the combustion process, since it is impossible to shut off the supply of secondary air, and soot deposits on the inner walls of the vertical channel. The casing cover is made removable so that it can be removed periodically.

Boiler unit

A long-burning boiler can be obtained by installing a water circuit on the chimney of a stove made from a gas cylinder or other materials, but according to the same scheme indicated above. However, heating the water in the circuit of such a unit will be inefficient, since the main part of the thermal energy is transferred to the air in the room and to the containers on the hob.

An effective version of a rocket stove made from a metal barrel

If you want to create a rocket boiler for water heating with high efficiency, you will have to sacrifice the cooking function. A do-it-yourself rocket stove according to the drawing presented below can be installed in a short time.

This will require:

fireclay bricks and refractory masonry composition (for installing the base of the stove with a firebox);
steel pipe with a diameter of 70 mm (for a vertical channel);
steel barrel (for the casing);
fireproof heat insulator;
sheet steel 3 mm thick and a metal barrel (or pipe) of smaller diameter than the casing (for arranging a water jacket and smoke channels for heating the water circuit);
steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney;
container, pipes and connecting pipes for arranging a heat accumulator.

A rocket furnace with a water circuit is characterized by the fact that the thermal insulation of the vertical channel provides optimal mode combustion of pyrolysis gases, while all the heated air enters the “coil” with a water jacket and releases the main part of the thermal energy there, heating the coolant.

Rocket stove with water circuit

The heat accumulator will continue to supply heated coolant to the heating circuit even after the furnace itself has cooled down. The container with water is equipped with a thick layer of insulation.

How to make a rocket stove with your own hands

He has several stages- selection of a suitable design; selection of materials and tools; direct production.

Project selection

When choosing a suitable project, consider the following factors:

The purpose of the stove is whether only cooking is required or also heating the room.
Available materials.
Approximate power. It depends on it how many servings of food or how much space the device is enough for.

Materials

For a brick structure you will need:

fireclay (fireproof) brick;
fireproof mixture for masonry;
concrete mortar (for the base);
mineral wool;
asbestos;
a whole barrel or an empty gas cylinder for the cap (optional);
stove doors - combustion chamber and ash pan;
if the cap is brick - a thick sheet of stainless steel according to the size of its section.

For finishing the stove the following are used:

refractory paint;
clay;
stones;
and so on.

For metal, take:

Round metal pipe with diameter about 150 mm and length no more than 90 mm(better about 60 mm).
Profiled (rectangular) pipe with a cross-section of 100-120 mm and length about a third round.
Instead of a rectangular pipe, you can take a sheet of steel thick 3 mm.
3 nuts.
Steel rods, plates or long bolts for legs.

Reference. For better traction, take a profiled pipe with the side no more than the diameter of a round one.

Instrument preparation

For production you will need:

Master OK;
level;
welding machine;
bayonet shovel;
metal brush;
level;
Bulgarian.

Manufacturing, device sizes

There are many variations on this theme. Let's consider making two fundamentally different types of reactive stove. This is a brick stove with a stove bench, which is used indoors, and a camp stove, assembled from metal. If necessary, changes are made, combinations of methods are possible (for example, a heating and cooking device, but made of pipes covered with clay or stones).

How to make a brick oven with a stove bench

First stage- foundation arrangement. A rectangular recess is dug under it, which is then filled with concrete.

For strength, it is better to pre-install the reinforcement. The base must be strictly horizontal.

After hardening concrete mortar Brick laying begins. External walls are located along the perimeter of the concrete platform. A combustion chamber is formed. On one side of it there is a combustion chamber with a hole for loading firewood. On the other side there are air ducts.

Important! Each row of bricks is also checked with a level. This is done in both planes - horizontal and vertical

Also in the combustion chamber leave a hole for cleaning ash which is closed by a door. When this chamber is ready, a metal barrel is put on it. The gaps are filled with insulation, for example, mineral wool.

If the barrel is not used, it is installed on top cooking stove. Asbestos insulation is placed under it.

Chimney connected to the air duct and discharged to the street.

Then finished the device is decorated. For example, it is coated with clay and covered with paint. Another option is to leave the brickwork.

Jet stove for camping

It consists of two compartments, connected to each other. To assemble it, first cut the pipes at an angle 45°. If you took a metal sheet instead of the second pipe, cut it into the following parts:

two with sides 300 mm and 150 mm;
two - 300 mm and 100 mm;
and one 150 and 100 mm.

Photo 3. Ready-made jet stove for hiking. The device is made of metal pipes.

Then weld them together. You will also need another plate to separate the fuel compartment, its dimensions are 200 mm and 100 mm.

All fragments are welded together in accordance with the diagram. The round pipe is attached to the bottom of the rectangular pipe and in the middle relative to the sides.

Welded from scraps of reinforcement grate. It is convenient to make it retractable in order to lay firewood and then slide it inside the firebox.

The pipe is sawed off 4 rings. They are attached to the top so that the dishes do not block the draft hole.

In a collapsible version legs are installed. Nuts are welded from below, into which long bolts are then screwed. There is another way. Rods or scraps of steel sheet are welded to the bottom. It is less convenient to transport, but there is no need for assembly.

When the design is ready, it needs to be painted. Only fireproof paint is used. This will protect against corrosion and also cover solder marks.

In this design, as in the one described above, the operating principle is to isolate the fire and direct the thermal energy to the right place.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

To prepare a portable rocket stove you will need:

two tin containers of different diameters;
a couple of corners;
steel clamps ø10 cm;
stainless steel pipe for chimney;
fine crushed stone;
Bulgarian;

metal scissors.

Making a camping and garden stove

In the second bucket - the lower part of the rocket stove, cut a hole for the pipe

We cut the metal into petals and bend them inside the bucket

Forward flow

Place small crushed stones in a bucket

We put the second bucket-lid on the rocket stove pipe

Bend a cookware burner from wire

Bend a hotplate from wire

We melt the rocket oven

Stage 2. Assembling the structure

Step 1. A lid for the structure is made from a smaller bucket. To do this, a hole is made in it for the chimney (the cover is not removed). In this case, it is better to bend the “petals” inward - this way the pipe will be fixed more securely.

The lower half of the bucket is cut off with a grinder.

Step 2. A hole is cut in the bottom of another container to connect the firebox. The tin is cut into “petals” with scissors and bent inward.

Step 3. The forward flow is assembled from a pipe and a couple of corners. The pipe is then inserted into the bucket and connected there to the “petals” using a steel clamp. That's it, the forward flow of the rocket furnace is ready.

Step 4. The space between the direct flow and the walls of the bucket is filled with fine crushed stone. The latter will perform two functions in the design at once - thermal insulation and thermal accumulation.

Step 5. The second bucket (lid) is placed on the jet stove.

Step 6. A hotplate is bent from steel wire.

Note! Instead of a burner, you can install three bricks. . Step 7

All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Step 7. All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Mini jet oven

Mini jet stove, kindling

A do-it-yourself rocket stove, the drawings of which most home craftsmen would probably like to have in their archives, can, in principle, be made even within one day, since its design is not at all complicated. If you have skills in working with tools, reading drawings, necessary materials, then making a simple stove of this type will not be difficult. It should be noted that it can be made from a variety of materials that are at hand, but much will depend on where the stove is planned to be installed. The rocket stove has a slightly different operating principle from other heating devices, and can be either stationary or portable.

Stationary rocket stoves are installed inside the house along the walls or on a designated area for cooking in the courtyard of the house. If the stove is installed indoors, it can heat a room up to 50 square meters. m.

Portable versions of the rocket stove are usually very small in size and can easily fit in the trunk of a car. Therefore, when going out, for example, to a picnic or to the dacha, such a stove will help you boil water and cook lunch. Moreover, the fuel consumption in the rocket stove is quite small; even dry branches, splinters or tufts of grass can be used as fuel.

The principle of operation of a rocket-type stove

Despite the simplicity of the rocket stove design, its design uses two operating principles that the developers borrowed from other types of solid fuel stoves. So, for its effective operation, the following principles are taken:

The principle of free circulation of gases released from fuel through the created stove channels, without the forced creation of chimney draft.
The principle of afterburning pyrolysis gases released during fuel combustion in the mode of insufficient oxygen supply.

In the simplest designs of rocket stoves, which are used only for cooking, only the first principle of operation can operate, since in them it is quite difficult to create the necessary conditions for the flow of pyrolysis and the organization of afterburning of gases.

To understand the designs and understand how they work, you need to consider some of them one by one.

The simplest design of a rocket stove

To begin with, it is worth considering the simplest design of a direct combustion rocket stove. As a rule, such devices are used only for heating water or for cooking, and exclusively outdoors. As can be seen from the figure below, these are two sections of pipe connected by a bend at a right angle.

The firebox for this furnace design is the horizontal part of the pipe, and fuel is placed in it. Often the firebox has a vertical loading - in this case, for the production the simplest stove three elements are used - these are two pipes of different heights, installed vertically and connected from below by a common horizontal channel. The lower pipe will serve as a firebox. To make a stationary version of the simplest design scheme, a brick is often used, installed on a heat-resistant mortar.

To achieve higher efficiency, the furnace was improved, and additional elements appeared, for example, the pipe began to be installed in a housing, which increases the heating of the structure.

1 – outer metal body of the furnace.

2 – pipe – combustion chamber.

3 – a channel formed by a jumper under the fuel chamber and intended for the free passage of air into the combustion area.

4 – the space between the pipe (riser) and the body, densely filled with a heat-insulating composition, for example, ash.

The furnace is heated as follows. Lightweight is first placed in the firebox flammable material, for example, paper, and when it flares up, chips or other basic fuel are thrown into the fire. As a result of the intense combustion process, hot gases are formed, rising through the vertical channel of the pipe and escaping outside. A container for boiling water or cooking food is installed on the open section of the pipe.

An important condition for the intensity of fuel combustion is the creation of a gap between the pipe and the installed container. If its hole is completely blocked, then combustion inside the structure will stop, since there will be no draft that supplies air to the combustion area and lifts the heated gases upward. To avoid problems with this, a removable or stationary stand for the container is installed on the upper edge of the pipe.

This diagram shows a simple design with a door installed on the loading opening. And to create draft, a special channel is provided, which is formed by the lower wall of the combustion chamber and a plate welded at a distance of 7-10 mm from it. Even if the firebox door is completely closed, the air supply will not stop. In this scheme, the second principle is already beginning to work - without active access of oxygen to burning wood, the process of pyrolysis can begin, and the continuous supply of “secondary” air will contribute to the afterburning of the released gases. But for a full-fledged process, one more important condition is still missing - high-quality thermal insulation of the secondary combustion chamber, since the combustion process of gases requires certain temperature conditions.

1 – air channel in the combustion chamber, through which air is blown when the firebox door is closed;

2 - zone of the most active heat exchange;

3 – upward flow of hot gases.

Video: a version of the simplest rocket furnace from an old cylinder

Improved rocket furnace design

The design, intended for both cooking and heating the room, is equipped not only with a combustion door and a second body, which serves as a good external heat exchanger, but also with an upper hob. Such a rocket stove can already be installed inside the house, and the chimney pipe from it is led outside. After such a modernization of the furnace, its efficiency increases significantly, since the device acquires many useful properties:

Due to the second outer casing and insulating heat-resistant materials that thermally insulate the main pipe of the furnace (riser), hermetically sealing the upper part of the structure, the heated air maintains a high temperature for much longer.

A channel for supplying secondary air was installed in the lower part of the body, successfully providing the necessary air supply, for which an open firebox was used in the simplest design.
The flue pipe in a closed design is not located at the top, as in a simple rocket stove, but at the lower rear part of the body. Thanks to this, the heated air does not go directly into the chimney, but is able to circulate through the internal channels of the device, heating, first of all, the hob, and then diverging inside the housing, ensuring its heating. In turn, the outer casing gives off heat to the air around it.

This diagram clearly shows the entire process of operation of the stove: in the fuel bunker (item 1), preliminary combustion of fuel (item 2) occurs in the insufficient air supply mode “A” - this is regulated by a damper (item 3). The resulting hot pyrolysis gases enter the end of the horizontal fire channel (item 5), where they are burned. This process takes place thanks to good thermal insulation and the continuous supply of “secondary” air “B” through a specially designed channel (item 4).

Next, hot air rushes into the internal pipe of the structure, called the riser (item 7), rises along it to the “ceiling” of the housing, which is the hob (item 10), providing its high-temperature heating. Then the gas flow passes through the space between the riser and the outer drum housing (item 6), heating the housing for further heat exchange with the air in the room. Then the gases go down and only after that they go into the chimney pipe (pos. 11).

In order to achieve maximum heat transfer from the fuel and provide the necessary conditions for complete combustion of pyrolysis gases, it is important to maintain the highest and most stable temperature in the riser channel (item 7). To do this, the riser pipe is enclosed in another pipe of a larger diameter - the shell (item 8 ), and the space between them is tightly clogged with heat-resistant mineral composition(pos. 9), which will serve as thermal insulation (a kind of lining). For these purposes, for example, a mixture of kiln masonry clay with fireclay sand (in a 1:1 ratio) can be used. Some craftsmen prefer to simply fill this space very tightly with sifted sand.

Increasing the efficiency of heat extraction in rocket stoves

To increase the efficiency of the rocket stove, other designs with more efficient heat extraction were developed, both for using the device outdoors and for indoor use - for heating rooms or heating water.

Stove-oven

For cooking or preparing food for the winter, stoves are made that are designed according to the principle described above, but have an extended cooking surface that allows you to install several containers at once.

In this model of a rocket stove, a vertical pipe with a top-loading firebox built into it, which has a door, is located under the cooking surface. Therefore, hot air heats it directly, and in order for the entire panel to be hot, heated gases, collecting under the panel, are directed into a horizontal channel passing under its entire surface and connected to a vertical section of the chimney.

Additionally, the structure is equipped with legs, which makes it stable and reliable. It should be noted that when such a stove is not used for its intended purpose, it can be used as an ordinary garden table.

In addition to this outdoor model, several types of structures have been developed for indoor use to effectively heat rooms or heat water.

Rocket stove with water circuit

A rocket furnace with a water circuit consists of the following elements:

The stove is installed on a solid concrete base to avoid distortions and deformation of structures.
The lower part of the structure, which includes the combustion chamber (item 2) and the fire channel, is laid out of fireclay bricks (item 1). The firebox has a vertical loading. At the bottom there is an ash pan (item 3) with a side door for regular cleaning of the stove from accumulated ash.

The vertical channel (riser) (item 4) is made of a steel pipe, which is covered with a thick layer of thermal insulation (item 5) and an outer metal casing.
A heat exchanger assembly with a water jacket in the walls (pos. 6) and horizontal plates that create a kind of labyrinth (pos. 7) to ensure maximum heat exchange area and time is hermetically fixed on top of the outer casing.

Attempts are being made to install a water register in this place. However, as practice shows, this approach is impractical - the temperatures here due to the afterburning of pyrolysis gases are very high, and the pipe register has every chance of quickly burning out.

Hot air, passing through the heat exchanger, bending around the metal plates, heats the entire massive block, and the metal gives off heat to the water circulating through the water jacket.
Further, the cooled gas flow goes into the chimney (pos. 8).
Water circulation occurs through a heat accumulator (pos. 9), which may well be made from an old boiler or other closed container with valves for connecting cold and hot water. The option of connecting a heating radiator is not excluded, although, in truth, such a furnace is unlikely to justify itself in such a role.
Hot water from the heat storage tank can be directed through a pipe connected to it (pos. 10) to the points of water intake for domestic needs.

Such a rocket stove is perfect for installation in a country house or in a private house, where it is possible to connect such a heat storage tank to the system autonomous water supply. The stove will help to significantly reduce the cost of heating water and heating, since this model does not require a large amount of solid fuel or connecting it to some additional energy sources.

Rocket stove with bench

Another way to effectively use a rocket stove is to equip a fairly massive structure with a heated bench. It should be noted that such a bed can take the form of a bed or sofa, successfully replacing these pieces of furniture, since by laying a mattress on its surface, you can comfortably settle down for a day or night rest. The bed can be made of brickwork or stones and clay mass.

The design of this version of the rocket stove consists of the following components and elements:

A lid-closable firebox with vertical fuel loading with a secondary air intake chamber located in its lower part.
The furnace goes into a horizontally located fire channel, at the end of which the pyrolysis gas is burned.
The hot gas flow rises through a vertical channel (riser) to the hermetically sealed “ceiling” of the housing, where it transfers part of the thermal energy to the horizontal plate - the hob. Then, under the pressure of hotter gases following, it diverges into heat exchange channels, giving off heat to the surfaces of the drum, and falls down.
At the bottom of the stove there is an entrance to horizontal pipe channels that run under the entire surface of the stove bench. Moreover, in this space one, two or more turns of corrugated pipe can be laid in the form of a coil, through which hot air circulates, heating the bed. This heat exchange pipeline is connected at the end to a chimney pipe led outside through the wall of the house.

It should be noted that if the bench is made of brick, the channels can also be laid out of this material, without the use of metal corrugated pipes.
The heated stove and bed, releasing heat into the room, will themselves serve as a kind of “battery”, capable of heating an area of up to 50 m2.

The metal drum of the furnace can be made of a barrel, gas cylinder or other durable containers, and also made of brick. Usually the material is chosen by the craftsmen themselves according to their financial capabilities and ease of work.

A rocket stove with a brick bench looks neater and is somewhat easier to install than a clay version, but the cost of materials will be about the same.

Video: another original solution to increase the heating efficiency of a rocket furnace

We build a rocket stove with a stove bench out of brick

What is needed for work?

The brick heating structure proposed for execution is designed on the principle of a rocket stove. Design size at standard parameters brick (250?120?65 mm) will be 2540?1030?1620 mm.

It should be noted that the design is divided into three parts:

The oven itself – its size is 505? 1620? 580 mm;
Firebox – 390?250?400 mm;
Bed 1905×755×620 mm + 120 mm headrest.

To lay the stove you will need the following materials:

Red brick – 435 pcs.;
Blower door 140×140 mm – 1 pc.;
Cleaning door 140x140 mm - 1 pc.;
A fire door is desirable (250×120 mm - 1 piece), otherwise there is a risk of smoke in the room.
Cooking stove 505 × 580 mm - 1 pc.;
Rear metal panel-shelf 370 × 365 mm - 1 pc.;
Asbestos sheet 2.5-3 mm thick to create a gasket between metal elements and brick.
Chimney pipe, 150 mm in diameter, with a 90 ? outlet.
clay and sand for mortar or a ready-made heat-resistant mixture. It should be noted here that for 100 bricks laid flat, with a joint width of 5 mm, 20 liters of mortar will be required.

The design of this top-loading rocket furnace is quite simple, trouble-free and efficient in operation, but only if its laying is done with high quality, in full accordance with the order.

In the absence of experience in the work of a bricklayer and stove-setter, but a great desire to independently install such a heating device, it is worth making sure, and for starters, lay down the structure “dry”, without mortar. This process will help you figure out the location of the brick in each of the rows.

In addition, in order for the seams to be of the same width, it is recommended to prepare sizing wooden or plastic slats for masonry, which will be laid on the previous row before laying the next one. After setting the solution, it will be easy to remove them.

Under the laying of such a stove it is necessary to have a flat and solid foundation. Despite the fact that the design is quite compact and its weight is not as great as, for example, a Russian stove, a floor laid with thin boards will not be suitable for its installation. In the case where the floor, although wooden, is very durable, before starting laying under the future stove, it is necessary to lay and secure a heat-resistant material, for example, asbestos 5 mm thick.

Order of a brick rocket stove with a stove bench:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first row is laid out solid, and the brick must lie in exact accordance with the pattern shown in the diagram - this will give strength to the entire base. For masonry you will need 62 red bricks. The diagram clearly shows the connection of all three sections of the furnace. The corners on the side bricks of the firebox facade are cut off or rounded - this way the structure will look neat.
	Second row. At this stage of the work, internal smoke exhaust channels are laid through which gases heated in the firebox will pass, giving off heat to the bricks of the stove bench. The channels connect to the combustion chamber, which also begins to form in this row. The first brick of the wall separating the two channels under the stove bench is cut diagonally - this “nook” will collect unburnt combustion products, and the cleaning door installed opposite the bevel will allow you to easily clean it. To lay a row you will need 44 bricks.
	On the second row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are mounted, which are necessary for periodically tidying up the ash chamber and internal horizontal channels. The doors are secured with wire, which is twisted onto the ears of the cast iron elements and then inserted into the masonry seams.
	Third row. It almost completely repeats the configuration of the second row, but, of course, taking into account the laying in a bandage, and therefore it will also require 44 bricks.
	Fourth row. At this stage, the channels running inside the couch are blocked with a continuous layer of brick. A firebox opening is left, and a channel is formed that will heat the hob and discharge combustion products into the chimney pipe. In addition, a rotating horizontal channel is blocked from above, which removes heated air under the stove bench. To lay a row you need to prepare 59 bricks.
	Fifth row. The next stage is covering the bed with a second cross layer of brick. The smoke exhaust ducts and firebox also continue to be removed. 60 bricks are prepared for a row.
	Sixth row. The first row of the headrest of the couch is laid out, and the part of the stove on which the hob will be installed begins to rise. It still has smoke exhaust ducts. A row requires 17 bricks.
	Seventh row. The laying of the headrest is completed, for which bricks cut diagonally are used. The second row of the base under the hob rises. Laying will require 18 bricks.
	Eighth row. The furnace structure with three channels is being laid. You will need 14 bricks.
	The ninth and tenth rows are similar to the previous, eighth, they are laid out according to the same pattern, alternately, intertwined. 14 bricks are used for each row.
	11th row. Continuation of masonry according to the scheme. This row will take 13 bricks.
	12th row. At this stage, a hole is formed for installing the chimney pipe. The hole supplied under the stove is equipped with a brick cut obliquely for a smoother flow of heated air into the adjacent channel leading to the lower horizontal channels located in the stove bench. 11 bricks were used per row.
	13th row. A base for the slab is formed, and the central and side channels are combined. It is through this that hot air will flow under the stove, and then flow into the vertical channel leading under the stove bench. 10 bricks are laid.
	13th row. On the same row, the base for laying the hob is prepared. To do this, a heat-resistant material - asbestos - is laid around the perimeter of the space in which two vertical channels were combined.
	13th row. Then, a solid metal plate is laid on the asbestos pad. In this case, it is not recommended to install a hob with opening burners, since when they open, smoke may enter the room.
	14th row. The opening for the chimney pipe is closed and the wall is raised, separating the hob from the stove bench area. Only 5 bricks are used for a row.
	15th row. This row raising the wall will also require 5 bricks.
	15th row. On the same row, in continuation back wall, fixed next to the hob metal shelf, which can be used as a cutting board. It is attached to brackets.
	15th row. The picture diagram shows well how a hob can be used. In this case, the pan is placed exactly on that section of the stove that will warm up first, since a hot air flow will pass under it.
	After completing all the work described in the order, a chimney pipe is built into the hole at the back of the stove, which is led out to the street.
	From the back, the design also looks quite neat, so it can be installed either near the wall or in the middle of the room. This stove is perfect for heating a country house. If the stove and chimney are decorated with finishing materials, then the structure can become an original addition, and a very functional one, for any private home. As you can see, the corner formed under the cutting shelf is very convenient for drying and storing firewood.
	To fully examine the structure, you need to see its projection from the end side.
	And the last picture clearly shows what should happen as a result of the work done, if you look at the stove from the side of the stove bench.

In conclusion, I would like to especially note that the design of a rocket stove can be called one of the simplest and most accessible for self-production, compared to other heating devices. Therefore, if a similar goal has been set - to acquire a stove in the house, but there is clearly not enough experience in such work, then it is best to choose this option, since when building it, it is difficult to make a mistake in the configuration of its internal channels.

Some sources claim that the rocket stove got its name due to the special sound it makes during use. Let's make a reservation right away - a strong hum is heard only during kindling, and then, a properly built stove should not hum. The sound that you can hear from a well-built structure will be more reminiscent of a rustle, a whisper, but nothing like the sound of a rocket taking off.

The efficiency of the furnace is increased due to the design features, which allow the use of not only the thermal energy obtained as a result of fuel combustion, but also the additional part of the heat generated during the afterburning of pyrolysis gas.

Attention! This gas is formed during the combustion of wood. Its ignition is possible only at a sufficient temperature level. With a large supply of oxygen or in an unheated furnace, such gases cool, do not ignite and evaporate freely.

Of course, the rocket stove is easy to manufacture, easy to use, practical, and not demanding on the quality of wood fuel. However, its operation depends on the correctness of the calculations and the accuracy of the manufacturing of the entire structure.

The general diagram of the furnace structure is as follows:

Despite the simplicity of the design, an ultra-efficient long-burning rocket stove requires precise adherence to the proportions of its parts:
The diameter of the chimney is not less than the diameter of the fuel bunker;
The length of the horizontal compartment of the combustion zone is no more than half of the vertical expanding section;
The height of the fuel bunker is equal to the length of the horizontal section;
The length of the chimney is 6-10 times greater than the height of the vertical secondary combustion chamber.
Thermal insulating adobe coating of the stove bench is at least 2/3 of the height, at least 15 cm above the chimney pipe.

Principle of operation

Fuel is loaded into a vertical bunker. With the correct design of the rocket furnace, the fuel burns only in the lower part, gradually settling under its own weight. Combustion in the primary combustion chamber is supported by suitable oxygen penetrating with the air flow through the ash pan. Then the fuel gases move freely into the afterburning zone, ignite as a result of the pyrolysis reaction, and heat the secondary combustion chamber and the hood. Due to the temperature difference in the primary combustion chambers and the vertical hood, draft is created, and hot air passes into the chimney channel. The exhaust system for combustion products consists of an internal part (heating the home) and an external part (removing smoke and gas from the room to the outside).

During operation, the fuel burns almost 100%, leaving only water and carbon dioxide at the exit. The long chimney provides almost complete cooling, so water can flow from the pipe. And as a result, a high pipe is not required; most often it is removed simply by continuing the horizontal section through the wall.

A rocket stove can be used simultaneously as a means of cooking and heating a small room. Design features allow the surface of the hood to be heated up to 400°C; this section of the stove is used as a cooking surface, and the long chimney most often turns into a lounger that can give off heat for up to 12 hours after heating. The effect of a heat accumulator increases with properly lining (coating) of the chimney body.

This is interesting! The principle of a jet stove without a heat-storing casing is used in small, portable camping structures. This type of stove uses only the energy generated by direct combustion. In this case, the amount of fuel burned increases, and the efficiency of the stove decreases significantly, but it is quite enough for cooking and heating the tent.

DIY rocket stove

When making a rocket stove with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

For a large-volume furnace - barrels of fuels and lubricants with a volume of 200 liters and a diameter of 600 mm. For the outer body of a medium-sized oven, gas cylinders with a diameter of 300 mm are used (it is also possible to use tin buckets, 400-450 mm);
For the fire duct of a furnace based on a barrel of fuel and lubricants, a 135 mm steel round or profile pipe (120x120 mm) is prepared. Under the furnace with an outer casing made from a gas cylinder are used round pipes 70 mm or profile 70 and 150 mm;
The entire structure is made of tin or thin sheet steel 2-3 mm thick. (Thinner sheet metal can only be used for chimney installations).
Thermal insulating gaskets made of mineral cardboard;
For the chimney - corrugated pipe. The diameter of the pipe should be one and a half times the diameter of the fire pipeline;
Fireproof brick, fireclay scrap, clay, sand. Straw (for adobe);
Fittings for the stove (doors of the firebox and ash pan). Mandatory requirement– integrity, tightness, which is ensured by gaskets made of mineral cardboard.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage - ease of installation - has already been mentioned by us, however, this type of stove has gained popularity due to an additional number of features.

Firewood and wood of any quality and condition can be used as fuel. Of course, the combustion reaction of the pyrolysis gases of raw wood will require a high temperature, but even in this case, as a result of the primary combustion of fuel, thermal energy will be released, which is sufficient for boiling water and cooking;
Despite the simplicity of the design, the thermal output of which a rocket oven made from a barrel of fuel and lubricants is capable can reach 18 kW. These parameters are enough to heat a room up to 20 m². A small stove (based on a gas cylinder), subject to all installation and installation rules, can have a power of up to 10 kW.
A well-heated jet stove is capable of long time keep warm for half a day (up to 12 hours) without requiring additional flooding.

However, some disadvantages of structures of this type cannot be mentioned:

Some types of rocket stoves cannot be used to heat water with subsequent supply to radiators or a hot water supply system, because. in principle, the connection of additional heat exchangers (coils) violates the tightness of the inner bunker, or reduces its thermal insulation characteristics, which leads to the impossibility of using the afterburning technology for pyrolysis gases;
The general adjustment of the stove operation is possible only by reducing or increasing the amount of firewood. The blower, which regulates the air flow, is used only for primary ignition.
The rocket stove is not a fast-acting design. (On the contrary, it requires a fairly long preparatory time for kindling and heating its own body and cools down just as long). Therefore, such a design cannot be used in garages and bathhouses.

Video

Here you will learn:

So simple heating device, like a rocket stove, is not known to every person. Meanwhile, it has few equals in simplicity and effectiveness. It cannot be said that she has best characteristics, but it also has few disadvantages. There are many varieties of these furnaces, differing in design and purpose. We'll look at them in more detail as part of our review.

Design and principle of operation

Let's consider the design of rocket furnaces - they consist of the following elements:

Firebox – a vertical or horizontal section in which firewood is burned;
Combustion chamber (it is also a flame tube, riser) - here the process of fuel combustion occurs with the release of a large amount of heat;
Blower - necessary for the correct operation of the stove and the start of the combustion process of pyrolysis gases;
Thermal insulation – envelops the vertical part, forming a drum together with the body;
Bed – used for its intended purpose;
Chimney - removes combustion products into the atmosphere, creating draft;
Dish rack – ensures unhindered heat escape.

Depending on the type of rocket furnace, certain elements may be missing.

Rocket stoves with vertical fireboxes (fuel bunkers) and blowers are the most efficient and convenient - large volumes of fuel are placed here, which ensures long-term combustion.

The most important part of the rocket furnace is the vertical drum. It is in it that the highest temperature is observed, since flames break out here. In order for it to start working, it must be thoroughly warmed up. Without this, the combustion process will be weak. To warm up, paper, cardboard, small chips or thin branches are placed in the firebox. As soon as the system warms up, the flame in the drum will begin to burn out with a humming sound, which is a sign that it has reached operating mode.

Types of rocket stoves

In this section, we will consider the most common types of rocket stoves used in field and stationary conditions.

Simple metal stoves

Simple brick ovens

A small-sized brick rocket stove is another simplest option for building a rocket stove with your own hands. Its assembly does not require cement mortar; it is enough to stack the bricks on top of each other to get a convenient brick outdoor unit for cooking at your disposal. In the section on self-assembly of rocket stoves, we will invite you to familiarize yourself with the simplest procedure for self-assembly.

Advantage of brick rocket kilns:

Simple design;
Long-term heat retention;
The ability to create a comfortable warm bed.

Some models are made combined, using both steel and bricks.

Sophisticated rocket stoves

There are projects for wood-burning rocket stoves that include additional modules. Their construction schemes include small boilers for preparing hot water, hobs, water jackets and even small ovens. Such stoves will help heat households and create comfortable living conditions for people.

Types of stoves for different operating conditions

A rocket stove for the garage can be made from an old pot-bellied gas cylinder or barrel. To do this, two holes are made in the selected container - one in the top lid and the other on the side surface. An L-shaped pipe is inserted inside. Having a little experience working with a welding machine, all work will take you a maximum of half an hour.

You can also make a rocket-type furnace described above from sections of square and metal pipe according to the drawing given.

There are no drawings of it in the public domain yet, so you can try to assemble the “Ognivo” stove with your own hands based on its photograph. You can also buy it on the manufacturer's website.

Firebox with vertical loading - logs are placed in it;
Afterburner is a horizontal section in front of the riser (flame tube), where pyrolysis combustion occurs;
A riser with a hob is a vertical section with a metal body that transfers heat into the room;
Horizontal channels - they heat the stove bench, after which the combustion products are sent into the chimney.

A rocket stove for heating a one-room house is coated with clay to create a flat and comfortable bed - here you can lay a mattress or a small blanket.

For camping use, the simplest rocket-type stoves made of metal pipes are used. They are compact, easy to light and extinguish, cool quickly and allow you to quickly prepare lunch in the open air. The main thing is not to overdo it with the amount of fuel loaded, so as not to burn the food with a high-temperature flame.

How to increase the efficiency of the stove

Long-burning jet stoves can be made even more efficient with a little modification. If the riser (fire pipe) is covered with a metal casing, weld vertically positioned pipes of small diameter to the outer surface - they form a convector that effectively warms the air in the rooms. This modification method is suitable for metal units used for heating technical premises (for example, garages).

Any metal rocket stove can be made more efficient by lining it with brick or natural stone. The masonry will retain heat and slowly release it into the room. At the same time, it will allow you to get rid of unbearable heat if the heating is too intense.

Let's start with the simplest brick sample, intended for cooking. Such a stove can be quickly assembled in your yard without clay mortar, and disassembled after use. It is also possible to assemble a stationary version - for those who like to cook over an open fire. The picture below shows a drawing of the stove, or rather, its order. There are only five rows here.

The first row is the base, which includes six bricks. The second row forms the firebox, and the next three rows form the chimney riser. In the first and second rows, halves of bricks are used so that the stove is rectangular, without protruding elements.

Immediately after assembly, you can start kindling - cook any dishes over the fire in cast iron cauldrons and frying pans, heat kettles and pots with water.

Large rocket stove with bench

The main advantage of the rocket modification over the Russian stove is its compactness. Even if equipped with a bed, it will please you with its small size. Having made it out of brick, you will have at your disposal an effective source of heat with a comfortable bed - the household will fight for the right to occupy this warm place.

The first row forms the base of our rocket stove. It consists of 62 bricks laid according to the pattern shown in the figure. The second row forms channels for heating the bed - they run along its entire length. Cast iron doors are also installed here, secured with metal wire - it is held between the rows. The number of bricks used is 44 pcs. The same amount will be required for the third row, which completely follows the contour of the second. The fourth row completely covers the channels that heat the bed. But here a vertical smoke channel and a firebox are already beginning to form - the row includes 59 bricks.

Another 60 is needed for the fifth row. The bench has already been formed, all that remains is to finish off the chimney channel and build the hob. The sixth row, which includes 17 bricks, is responsible for this. Another 18 are needed for the seventh row, 14 for the eighth.

The ninth and tenth row will require 14 bricks, the eleventh - 13.

Row No. 12 is our key row - the chimney pipe will begin from here. Also from here begins a hole through which the air rising to the hob will fall down to the stove bench - 11 bricks are required (this is the top of the riser). In row No. 13 this process is completed, 10 bricks are spent on it. Now we lay an asbestos pad, which is covered with a piece of thick sheet steel - this will be the hob.

Rows No. 14 and No. 15 require 5 bricks each; they cover the chimney channel and form a low wall between the hob and the stove bench.

In a similar way, you can assemble a long-burning rocket boiler by finding a suitable arrangement. Some schemes involve the use of metal components.

DIY long-burning rocket stove: drawings, diagrams

What is a solid rocket stove and how does it work? In this review, we study the types of rocket (jet) stoves and try to assemble them with our own hands.

Do-it-yourself long-burning rocket stove

Photo 1 Rocket stove in the interior

Principle of operation

This design allows the stove to be used not only for heating the room, but also for heating food or water (on the hood). If the chimney is run through a certain area of the room, right up to the lounger, it will also heat up.

Photo 2 Rocket stove in the interior

Among the main advantages of rocket stoves are the following:

high efficiency - 85%;
very fast heating of the room - 50 sq.m. in 45-60 minutes;
absence of soot and, as a result, soot deposits - at temperatures above 1000 degrees, everything burns without a trace;
the ability to use any solid fuel;
minimum consumption - at the same temperature and burning duration, a rocket stove consumes 4-5 times less fuel than a conventional stove.

The simplest design from a barrel or gas cylinder

Photo 3 Traveling rocket stove

For fuel, a steel plate is welded to the bottom, at the bottom of which a hole is cut for air intake.

You can use any straight cylindrical container for manufacturing - the drawing of a rocket furnace shows how the direct combustion process occurs.

Photo 4 Schematic of a traveling rocket

Brick rocket stove in 20 minutes

If you have 20-30 bricks on hand, you can make a simple rocket stove with your own hands in just a few minutes. Moreover, no adhesives are needed for masonry.

Lay out a vertical combustion chamber from brick, as shown in the photo. In this case, the dishes are placed on the hood in such a way as not to interfere with the movement of released gases

Do-it-yourself rocket-type brick oven:

Photo 5 Rocket stove made of 20 bricks

For such a design to work well, a warm pipe is needed. This term among stove makers means a preliminary run of wood chips and paper so that the pipe warms up. There will be stagnation of gas in a cold pipe, which will make heating difficult. And if the pipe is warm, then when the wood is ignited, a powerful draft appears in the channel.

For reference. The above simplest designs made from a gas cylinder or pipe have a significant drawback - vertical loading of firewood. Each time you have to move the wood into the chamber when it burns out and only then add it. Stationary rocket furnaces on coal or long-term combustion already provide for a vertical bookmark, which greatly simplifies operation.

Long-burning rocket stove

Photo 6 Design of a stationary rocket furnace

DIY rocket jet stove diagram

In order to make such a unit with your own hands, you need to decide on the dimensions and structural elements.

How the rocket works:

As can be seen from the drawing, the diameter of the cap (D), which covers the top of the pipe, and its cross section (S) are taken as the basis.

Based on these indicators, the dimensions of the rocket furnace are calculated:

the height of the drum is 2 of its diameter;
the height of the clay coating is 2/3 of the height;
coating thickness - 1/3 of the diameter;
cross-sectional area of the pipe - 7% of its cross-section;
blower area - 1/2 of the pipe section;
the flame tube horizontally and vertically must be the same;
ash pan volume - 4-6% of the drum height;
The cross-sectional area of the external chimney is the double cross-section of the pipe.
the thickness of the insulating layer (adobe cushion) under the external chimney is 60 mm;
the thickness of the coating of the stove bench is 1/4 of the diameter of the drum;
external pipe height - 4000 mm;
The length of the flue directly depends on the diameter of the drum. If for its manufacture we took a metal container with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a volume of 200 liters, then the length of the flue pipe will be at least 6 meters. If the diameter is half as large, then the bed should be made up to 4 meters.

If you are making a stationary rocket stove with your own hands, be sure to pay attention to the lining of the top of the pipe. This is necessary to isolate the roaster from the walls of the oven to prevent overheating of the walls. Fireclay bricks can be used for lining.

Photos of examples of original performance

Sand is poured into the bucket layer by layer, with each layer being generously watered for proper compaction. When you have filled the protection to the top with sand, leave it to dry for 7-10 days.

Pipe lining diagram

All further work on the installation of a jet-type rocket furnace continues only after not only the lining, but also the clay protection, which is applied over the top cut, has dried.

Before making a stationary structure, practice on a traveling sample. After the first experience it will become clear even if you have not read the books on rocket stoves.

Disadvantages of the heating device

This device is often used to heat food or water - indeed, a huge amount of heat, a hot cap, why not use this idea? However, connecting a water circuit in order to heat the entire house and not a room is impossible. The design is so simple that any intervention, including a coil, will disrupt the progress of work.
Surprisingly, such a lightweight mobile heating device is completely unsuitable for either a bathhouse or a garage. Even with its high efficiency, a camping unit will not heat the air in the steam room to the required minimum. And in a garage or warehouse it is not recommended to use devices with direct open fire.

Assembly diagram of a portable rocket stove

In this article we will give an example of a camp installation, which does not require any masonry or finishing materials.

2 buckets;
stainless steel pipe;
river sand or crushed stone for lining.

Step 1. Cut a hole in the side of one of the buckets along the diameter of the pipe at a height of 5 cm from the bottom. The height should be enough to pour crushed stone or sand into the bucket.

Step 2. Divide the pipe into 2 parts - a short loading section and a pancake elbow-chimney.

Step 2. Insert the pipe into the hole in the bucket.

Step 4. By analogy with step 1, cut a hole in the bucket, but directly in the bottom. The diameter of the hole corresponds to the diameter of the pipe. Insert the pipe.

Step 5. Pour sand or gravel into a bucket, which will act as a heat accumulator for the fire tube.

Step 6. Making legs or stand. For this purpose, ordinary reinforcement is suitable, which is bent under pressure and the base is cut out.

Rocket stove from a gas cylinder

This is a complicated, improved version, for the manufacture of which you will need an already used gas cylinder and a 4 mm rectangular pipe.

The scheme remains exactly the same with the only exception that flammable gases are discharged from the side through the hole, and not from above, as happens with field samples.

If there is a need to cook food or heat it, the upper part of the cylinder with the tap is cut off, and a flat plate is welded on top.

Do-it-yourself long-burning rocket furnace made of brick or gas cylinder: drawings, photo and video instructions

We will tell you how to make a rocket stove with your own hands, and what you need for this. This device, despite our brave space achievements, is still not widely known in our country, although its effectiveness is beyond doubt.

How to make a rocket stove with your own hands

Rocket stove: diagram and photo of production.

The design of the rocket stove is made in such a way that, using direct combustion, it creates a strong flame from a small amount of fuel. The combustion process occurs in a vertical pipe where the effect of direct combustion of the flame is ultimately created.

Rocket stove diagram.

The figure shows a diagram of a rocket-type furnace.

The stove consists of a vertical pipe and a side firebox placed at an angle of 45 degrees; the firebox located at this angle greatly facilitates the stacking of firewood.

DIY rocket stove.

To make a rocket-type furnace, you will need two sections of profile pipe:

For the firebox, a pipe with a cross-section of 160 x 160 mm is 300 mm long.

For the chimney, a pipe with a cross-section of 120 x 120 mm is 500 mm long.

More will be needed metal sheets 5 mm thick and the following dimensions:

Several metal rods for making grate bars.

The manufacturing process of a rocket stove is as follows. The firebox and chimney of the stove are cut out from the profile pipes using a grinder.

The chimney and firebox are welded together at an angle of 45 degrees.

At the bottom of the firebox, you need to weld the grates and a plate separating the firebox and the ash pan. Without grates, coals will quickly clog the firebox and reduce draft.

A damper must be provided in the firebox; by adjusting the damper, you can control the intensity of the flame burning in the furnace.

The final stage: paint the rocket stove with heat-resistant paint.

Advantages and disadvantages of a rocket stove.

A rocket-type furnace has its advantages:

Minimum fuel consumption, the stove can operate on almost any fuel, it is optimal to use wood - firewood, branches, small chips.
Strong flame and fast heating, a kettle with 3 liters of water boils in 15 - 20 minutes.
Simplicity of design, compact size.

Disadvantages of a rocket type furnace:

The weight of the stove is more than 10 kg, so it is difficult to call this stove camping, except if you transport it in a car.
It is not practical to use a jet stove for space heating, often you need to throw firewood into the stove and most of the heat goes into the chimney, the stove is primarily intended for quick cooking, heating water and other needs.
When burning, the stove makes a characteristic “reactive” sound.

Where is a rocket-type stove useful? The stove can be used in places where it is not possible to build an open fire or there is not enough fuel for a fire. The oven will, by the way, if you need to quickly cook food, for example, in the country or in nature.

Another DIY rocket stove option.

DIY rocket stove: drawings, photos, videos

Homemade rocket stove: drawings and photos of production. Rocket stove is used for fast cooking with minimum quantity fuel.

DIY rocket stove Robinson

Robinson camping stove

Rocket stoves are attractive due to their simplicity of design and cost-effectiveness. But, behind the apparent simplicity, there is an exact calculation. It is very undesirable to deviate in size: everything will stop working at all or fuel combustion will be extremely inefficient.

General principles

The portable portable stove "Robinson" was made on the basis of a heating rocket stove. The same principle is applied: firewood burns in the bunker-fuel compartment, the fire, due to the air flow, enters the combustion zone - a horizontal section of the pipe and partially rises up the smoke tube. First, while the stove is not heated up, all the energy is spent on heating the chimney. Then, when it warms up, the gases from high temperatures ignite again, and secondary combustion of the gases occurs. Modern gas-generating pyrolysis boilers are designed according to the same principle.

How does a rocket stove work?

In the Robinson oven, everything is a little simpler: we don’t need to heat the room. Its main task is to heat water and cook food. But the principles remain the same: the fire must heat the chimney, and its length must be enough to burn off the gases. Therefore, for normal performance, adhere to the following proportions:

The length of the chimney must be at least 2 times the length of the horizontal (sloping) section.
The height of the fuel compartment is approximately equal to the length of the horizontal section. Therefore, in the Robinson stove, the firebox is made at an angle of 45°, although the fuel compartment can be located at an angle of 90°, but it is not very convenient to place fuel this way.
The cross-section of the chimney should not be smaller than the size of the firebox.

Construction of the Robinson furnace: drawings and dimensions

This is what a Robinson camp stove looks like

In the original, “Robinson” is welded from a 150*100 mm profile pipe. Homemade similar stoves are made from pipes of similar diameter. Sometimes the fuel compartment is made from a piece of a profile pipe, and the chimney is made from a round one. At the same time, it is important that the cross section of the chimney is not less than that of the firebox, otherwise reverse draft may occur.

Below we lay out the drawings of the Robinson rocket furnace indicating the most common sizes: a profile pipe 150 * 150 mm, a firebox 30 cm long, a chimney of at least 60 cm. In general, with this size of the firebox, it can be up to 90 cm, but keeping in mind that this is After all, it’s a hiking option, we indicate the minimum possible length.

Drawing of a Robinson rocket stove for making your own drawings

The legs are made of threaded rod, installed in place and tightened with nuts. This option is the most compact, but unscrewing / screwing the legs to the smoked iron is not the best thing to do. Alternative support options: steel sheet welded to the bottom or stationary legs. They do not need to be screwed, but they take up more space in the trunk.

In the case of the original Robinson stove, it does not have a combustion air channel and there is no combustion control lid. In homemade ones there is an improvement: a plate ending in a grate is welded at the bottom of the fuel compartment. The fuel is placed on this plate. The gap at the bottom allows oxygen to be supplied directly to the combustion zone. To regulate the combustion intensity, a flap cover is welded to the fuel compartment. It is slightly wider in size than the fuel compartment (in the drawing it is 156.4 mm with a firebox width of 140 mm). It should not block it completely - otherwise the fire will go out. They make it smaller in size than the firebox or build in a slide valve.

Drawing of a firebox for a Robinson stove with an ash pan and a ash pan

Craftsmen make small camping rocket stoves from various pieces of metal. In the photo below you see what happened - a finished Robinson stove, made by hand by a craftsman from Penza. Three small sections of 160*160 mm profile pipe were used, from which the combustion chamber was welded. Its total length was 40 cm. A single piece of pipe 120*120 mm, 60 cm long, was used for the chimney. In the firebox, the ash pan is welded from 8 mm sheet metal and 12 mm steel rod. Instead of legs, a metal plate is welded: thickness 8 mm, dimensions 180*350 mm.

This is a finished Robinson stove and what the master welded it from with his own hands (To enlarge the size of the picture, click on it with the left mouse button)

According to the author: a heated stove burns well, does not smoke and is not capricious. Just before loading with “serious” fuel: branches and wood chips, it needs to be heated with paper, hay, dry grass or very thin branches. When the pipe warms up, you can lay in thicker firewood.

Difficulties with lighting a cold stove are generally typical for rocket fireboxes. In this case, we also have a narrowed chimney, which makes kindling more problematic.

The second version of a homemade rocket-type camping stove is made from two profile pipes: 160*160 mm 30 cm long for the firebox and 120*120 mm 60 cm long for the chimney (it’s better to take a section no smaller - the draft will be better). 5 mm steel is used for the ash pan, door and stand. The ash pan is cut to half the length of the firebox, reinforcing bars of 12 mm in diameter are welded to the plate. The lid does not reach the ash pan plate by about 2 cm; a large diameter nut is used instead of a handle. Base plate dimensions 20*30 cm.

Materials and process for making a Robinson stove with your own hands (To enlarge the size of the picture, click on it with the left mouse button)

To make it convenient to place the dishes and to give the smoke a place to escape, CV joint balls are welded at the corners of the pipe. This option turned out to be more convenient than the one proposed in the original (three rings welded together) - on such a stove you can place dishes with a round bottom - a cauldron, for example. Hunters and fishermen often have these cookware rather than flat-bottomed pans. The kettle also works great: it boils three liters of water in 20 minutes. There is enough heat to fry meat and for other cooking tasks.

Robinson portable stove: tests in the garage and on a three-day hunt (To enlarge the size of the picture, click on it with the left mouse button)

DIY Robinson stove: the principle of a rocket stove and its manufacture

Do you need a small, portable stove that you can use to cook your meals? Pay attention to the Robinson rocket stove. It is made with your own hands from two pieces of profile pipe.

Rocket stove with stove bench. DIY Robinson rocket stove. Reactive oven - what is it

Principle of operation

The simplest design from a barrel or gas cylinder

Brick rocket stove in 20 minutes

Long-burning rocket stove

DIY rocket jet stove diagram

Photos of examples of original performance

Pipe lining diagram

Disadvantages of the heating device

Rocket stove from a gas cylinder

Jet device with a warm bed

Stove rocket from a cylinder

Masonry of a rocket-type heater made of bricks

Making a rocket oven

From a gas cylinder

Made of brick

Design and principle of operation

Features of operating a rocket furnace

Fuel types

Types of stoves for different operating conditions

Operating principle

Jet furnaces, product drawings

Brick long-burning rocket stove

A device made of a pipe with a water circuit, diagram

"Robinson"

"Flint"

Step-by-step instruction

Making a firebox

Primary chimney

Chimney installation

Furnace lining

Primary chimney lining

Construction of a brick rocket stove

How to make it yourself

Selecting a location

Preparation of the solution

Laying a rocket furnace of 20 bricks

Laying a rocket stove with a stove bench

Types of rocket stoves

Simple metal stoves

Simple brick ovens

Sophisticated rocket stoves

Assembling a rocket stove with your own hands

How does a rocket stove work?

Manufacturing a modernized Robinson furnace

Jet heating unit from a propane cylinder

Boiler unit

How to make a rocket stove with your own hands

Project selection

Materials

Instrument preparation

Manufacturing, device sizes

How to make a brick oven with a stove bench

Jet stove for camping

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

Stage 2. Assembling the structure

The principle of operation of a rocket-type stove

The simplest design of a rocket stove

Improved rocket furnace design

Increasing the efficiency of heat extraction in rocket stoves

Stove-oven

Rocket stove with water circuit

Rocket stove with bench

We build a rocket stove with a stove bench out of brick

What is needed for work?

Order of a brick rocket stove with a stove bench:

Principle of operation

DIY rocket stove

Advantages and disadvantages

Video

Design and principle of operation

Types of rocket stoves

Types of stoves for different operating conditions

How to increase the efficiency of the stove

Large rocket stove with bench

Do-it-yourself long-burning rocket stove

Principle of operation

How to make a rocket stove with your own hands

Rocket stove diagram.

DIY rocket stove.