The rocket stove is widely known throughout the world as a long-burning heating design using solid fuel. To achieve maximum efficiency we had to work hard. A liquid fuel stove can release all its energy, but wood is more difficult to process. To unlock the full potential of wood, jet kilns were equipped with a chamber for afterburning gases.

The Shirokov-Khramtsov rocket or jet stove did not get its name because of its connection with space. The point is the shape of the device and the noise that is created during operation, reminiscent of the operation of a rocket. But this sound indicates improper use of the oven.

Types of long-burning rocket furnaces:

• Portable (mobile);
• Stationary (for heating).

The most popular rocket model is the Robinson. It is often used on hikes. Thanks to a small portable device, you can understand the principle of operation of jet furnaces. The shape of the oven resembles the letter "L".

If the furnace is too noisy and buzzes during operation, then this mode is ineffective and expensive. Normally, there should be a quiet sound, a little rustling.

The jet furnace has a receiving hopper. This is the horizontal part of the pipe. A draft arises in the channel itself, it is this that affects the intensity of combustion, warming up the body. That is why it is advised to limit the supply of oxygen. Otherwise, the firewood will quickly burn out and all the heat will evaporate.

The stove operates on jet traction due to the natural flow of hot air. The higher the temperature of the furnace walls, the better the wood burns. This allows you to quickly heat water in a large container, which is indispensable on a road trip. If you equip the pipe with thermal insulation, then after warming up you can burn thick logs.

Do-it-yourself rocket stove: advantages, drawings, disadvantages

If desired, the conventional design of the furnace can be improved. This is how the potbelly stove loses a lot of heat, but by equipping the device with a water circuit or brickwork, these problems can be solved. For all these manipulations, drawings are made.

Advantages of jet furnaces:

1. Simple and inexpensive design. You can use available materials without significant financial costs. All work can be done with your own hands; no special knowledge or skills are required.
2. You can control the combustion yourself by choosing the desired intensity.
3. High efficiency. In general, everything depends on the quality of installation. The main thing is to extract maximum energy from the flue gases.

But such a simple and convenient design also has significant disadvantages. So you need to select special fuel for the stove. You cannot use wet firewood, otherwise pyrolysis will not occur. The firebox may begin to smoke profusely, and all the gases will be directed into the house. In addition, a rocket stove requires increased safety requirements.

The most popular portable model is the Robinson rocket stove. It was modified and a grate was added.

Homemade jet stoves are not used for heating baths. They are ineffective in infrared light, which plays an important role for a steam room. Surface structures have small area heating, so they cannot heat the bathhouse.

Drawings of a jet stove from a gas cylinder and other types

Long-burning stoves are divided into stationary and mobile. Mobile stoves are used on hikes, picnics, and outdoors for heating and cooking food. Stationary ones are used for heating a house, outbuildings, greenhouses, and garages. There are 4 types of structures.

Types of reactive furnaces:

• Homemade camp stove made of metal pipes, buckets, cans;
• Jet design from a gas cylinder;
• Brick oven with metal container;
• Stove with a stove bench.

The portable structure is equipped with pipe sections. The only difference concerns the installed partition for the ash pan. For the lower part, a grate can be used.

A device made from a gas cylinder is more difficult to build, but significantly increases efficiency. To install the structure, a barrel or gas cylinder is required. Firewood in the firebox burns due to the influx of oxygen by loading it through a special window.

The gases burn out in the pipe, which is located inside the structure, due to the supply of secondary air. The effect is enhanced by insulating the inner chamber. Hot air is placed in the hood, and then into the outer chamber. Combustion products are removed through the chimney.

To create draft, the top of the chimney is placed 4 cm above the loading window.

The combined model made of brick and metal is a stationary structure. Due to its high heat capacity, a wood stove accumulates and releases heat over several hours. That is why residential premises are heated with this design.

The rocket unit with a bench is an improved device that can retain heat longer. Since some of the heat escapes through the chimney, we increased its length. Due to the rapid excision of hot gases and a larger smoke outlet, this problem was solved.

This creates massive stoves with a bench that look like a sofa or bed. These are stationary devices made of brick or stone. Thanks to its unique design, the stove is able to retain heat all night.

DIY drawings of the Flint stove and other models

It is best to make small portable structures with your own hands: the “Ognivo” and “Robinson” rockets. It is easy to perform the calculation, and the work will require cutting of profile pipes and metal welding skills. Dimensions may differ from the drawing, that's okay. It is important to maintain proportions.

To increase the combustion intensity, it is recommended to add improvised nozzles to the design. Secondary air for afterburning will flow there.

Stationary rocket stoves are made from a gas cylinder or metal barrel. These elements act as a body. Inside, the stove is equipped with smaller pipes or fireclay bricks. From a cylinder you can make both a stationary unit and a mobile one.

Continuous combustion furnace diagram:

• Chimney;
• Cap;
• Insulation;
• Loading hopper;
• Combustion zone;
• Afterburning zone.

Calculating a rocket stove can be difficult, because there is no exact method. You should pay attention to proven finished drawings. It is necessary to determine the size of heating equipment for a specific room.

DIY jet stove assembly for heating

Construction of the furnace begins with preparatory work. First you need to decide on the place of construction. It is chosen based on the requirements that relate to solid fuel structures: wood or coal.

Once the location has been decided, it is necessary to properly prepare it for construction. The wooden floor under the stove is being dismantled. They dig a small pit and compact the bottom.

In a small room, the jet stove is placed in the corner. The loading hopper occupies one side and the deck chair occupies the other.

The barrel or cylinder also needs to be prepared for installation. To do this, cut off the lid and tap. Then the structure is cleaned. Next, prepare the solution.

Stages of construction of a jet stove with a stove bench:

1. The bottom of the dug hole is lined with fireclay bricks. Formwork is made along the contour of the recess. Reinforcement is performed.
2. Lay out the base and fill it with concrete. A day later, when the concrete has hardened, further work begins.
3. The base of the stove is laid out from fireclay bricks. Raise side walls, make the lower channel.
4. The combustion chamber is covered with brick. There are two holes on the sides. One is for the firebox, the second is for the vertical pipe (riser).
5. The metal body is equipped with a flange into which the horizontal channel of the stove will flow. All seams must be airtight, well sealed.
6. A side outlet is attached to the horizontal pipe, which serves as an ash pan.
7. A fire tube is made from brick. As a rule, it is square.
8. The flame tube is equipped with a casing. The gaps are filled with perlite.
9. The installation of the cap is done from a cut-off part of a barrel or cylinder. It is equipped with a handle.
10. Equip the furnace body with brick or stone.
11. Equip the front part of the stove. Lay out the required contour.
12. A prepared barrel is placed on the base. The lower part must be sealed with clay.
13. Using a corrugated pipe, a channel is formed connecting the firebox to the street.
14. The heat exchanger pipes are connected to the lower pipe.
15. Installing a chimney. All elements must be sealed using asbestos cord and fire-resistant coating.

Improved rocket furnace with water circuit

A long-burning boiler can be obtained by equipping the stove with a water jacket. Water heating may not be efficient enough. The fact is that the bulk of the warm air enters the room and containers on the cooking surfaces. To create a rocket boiler, you need to give up the possibility of cooking on the stove.

Materials required for equipping a stove with a water circuit:

1. Fireclay bricks and mortar for masonry;
2. Steel pipe (diameter 7 cm);
3. Barrel or cylinder;
4. Insulation;
5. Sheet steel and a barrel of smaller diameter than for the body to create a water jacket;
6. Chimney (diameter 10 cm);
7. Parts for the heat accumulator (tank, pipes, connecting pipe).

A characteristic feature of rocket furnaces with a water circuit is that the vertical part is insulated to ensure combustion of pyrolysis gases. In this case, warm air is directed into a coil with a water circuit and transfers heat to the stove. Even when all the fuel has burned out, in heating circuit Warm air will still be supplied.

DIY rocket stove drawings (video)

Jet stoves are widely known among people. Even Korea, China, England and the population of Japan used them. The Chinese stove differed from others in its ability to heat the entire floor. But the Russian analogue is in no way inferior. Thanks to useful innovations, the stove can hold heat for a long time.

Examples of a rocket stove (photo of ideas)

If you plan to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder, then you don’t have to be afraid of difficulties. The steps to create equipment from such construction raw materials are quite simple:

1. the upper part is cut off from a cylinder with a volume of 50 liters in order to build a kind of cap;

   The balloon is cut off at the top and bottom

2. Based on the instructions in the drawing, all parts of the product are welded to each other, that is, a gas cylinder, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (future chimney), a pipe with a diameter of 7 cm (internal channel) and another pipe with a diameter of 15 cm (fuel firebox);

   Dimensions in mm

3. the space between the two pipes is filled with a material that retains heat, for example, sand, which has been thoroughly calcined, that is, cleared of organic substances;
4. To give the structure stability, the legs are welded.

To build a rocket stove with a stove bench, which involves the use of bricks, you need to proceed differently:

1. The area for arranging the firebox is deepened by removing 10 cm of soil. The combustion chamber is formed from fireclay bricks. Formwork is created along the contour of the structure being manufactured. To ensure a strong foundation, it is recommended to lay it in reinforcing mesh or metal rods;

   The platform will harden in about two days

2. The structure is filled with liquid concrete. Then they wait for the solution to harden and finish the work. The bricks are laid in a continuous line, creating a platform for the stove. After this, the walls of the structure are formed, placing several rows of brick blocks;
3. The lower channel of the structure is constructed, with one line of bricks laid across to block the combustion chamber. The blocks are placed, leaving the vertical channel and the firebox opening open;

   Two sectors of the furnace at this stage of construction should be open

4. They find a body from an old boiler and cut off the top and bottom covers on it. A flange is installed at the bottom of the resulting pipe through which a horizontal heat exchanger will pass. Parts need to be connected to each other with a continuous weld;

   Work requires diligence

5. An outlet pipe is inserted into the barrel, after which they take a metal brush and scrape off the rust from the walls of the container. The cleaned barrel is treated with a primer, and a little later with paint that is resistant to high temperatures;
6. The horizontal chimney is connected by welding to the side outlet - the future ash pit. To facilitate its cleaning, a sealed flange is mounted;
7. Spread the flame tube of refractory bricks. At the same time, a channel 18 cm high and wide is formed inside the structure. When doing this, they constantly use a building level, which allows you to control the verticality of the product;

   The height of the pipe is predetermined

8. The flame tube is covered with a protective casing, and the resulting gaps are sealed with perlite. The lower area of ​​the vertical channel is sealed with raw clay, the function of which is to prevent the thermal insulation material from spilling onto the floor;
9. From the boiler, on which the top and bottom have been cut off, a fuel tank is formed. A handle must be welded to it;
10. To improve the appearance, the structure is treated with adobe putty, consisting of sawdust and raw clay. The first component of the composition serves in the same way as crushed stone in concrete, that is, it prevents cracking of the furnace walls. It is recommended to apply adobe putty over perlite backfill;
11. They create the facade of the stove, for which the stove contour is laid out from stone, bricks, adobe and sand. The back side of the structure is filled with crushed stone, and the front side with adobe mixture, making the surface perfectly flat;
12. A metal barrel casing is placed on the previously created base. The lower pipe of the container is directed towards the bed. The bottom of the structure is treated with raw clay, which will ensure its tightness;
13. A channel made of corrugated pipe is connected to the combustion chamber. It will serve as a link between the firebox and the outside atmosphere;

    At this stage the oven looks almost finished

14. A test firing of the stove is carried out, watching how the gases are removed from the horizontal chimney. After this, the heat exchanger pipes are connected to the lower pipe installed on a red brick platform;
15. The stove is equipped with a smoke exhaust pipe. The junction of the chimney and the heat generator is sealed with fire-resistant coating and asbestos cord;
16. Using clay and adobe, the bed is given the desired shape. Only the horizontal section of the structure is left unsealed, which will then be used during cooking.

    The oven functions as a whole system

Jet device with a warm bed

One of the variations of such heating units is a rocket stove with a berth. It is based on the same principle of pyrolysis. The difference lies in the design of the heat exchanger itself. The long channels of the device are made of non-combustible materials and are interconnected. This structure is placed under the plane of the bed.

The ledge itself is a surface made of clay, stone or brick, inside which hot air circulates through the channels of the heat exchanger. During the operation of the jet furnace, the gas obtained by pyrolysis moves through the pipes under the bench, gives off heat and is discharged through the chimney located on the street. Its height reaches 3000-3500 mm.

The stove structure with a firebox is located near one of the edges of the stove bench. Often there is also a hob, with which a homemade rocket stove can also be used for cooking.

The stone or clay surface of the couch is covered with a wooden flooring or a mat made of bamboo or straw. This is necessary for the comfort of the user, because the bed serves as a sleeping place at night, and as a seat during the day. The peoples of Asia traditionally used the rocket stove for eating, equipping the stove with a special low table.

It is important to note that this type of furnace device uses fuel resources quite economically. An armful of medium-thick dry branches is enough to heat the unit.

Due to the fact that a brick rocket stove retains heat for a long time, by heating it once in the evening, you can enjoy the created comfort all night long, without worrying about adding fuel again.

The easiest way is to make a small portable stove with your own hands - the Robinson rocket, whose drawing is presented below. You will need cutting profile pipes, metal for legs and stands, as well as welding skills. Moreover, compliance with the exact dimensions indicated in the drawing is not necessary. You can take pipes of a different section, but you just need to reduce or increase them proportionally so that the parts fit together.

Drawing of an improved Robinson camping stove with nozzles made of a profile pipe, cut lengthwise into 2 parts

Note

Please note that the drawing shows a design improved by our expert. As befits a rocket, improvised nozzles are attached to it, which receives secondary air for afterburning, which enters the pipe through a series of holes

Due to this modernization, the combustion intensity increases noticeably. For more information about the operation of a compact wood stove, watch the video:

The most common versions of large rocket stoves are made from a gas cylinder or a two-hundred-liter metal barrel. We must understand that these ready-made elements are used as an outer cap, and the internal parts of the stove must be made from pipes of smaller diameter or laid out from fireclay bricks. Moreover, from a cylinder you can make both a stationary heater with a small bench, and a unit that can be moved.

It should be noted right away that calculating the thermal power of a rocket-type furnace is quite difficult, since there is no single methodology for this. It’s easier to rely on ready-made drawings of already working samples and assemble according to them. You just need to compare the dimensions of the future stove with the dimensions of the heated room. For example, for heating small room The size of the cylinder is enough, in other cases it is better to take a large barrel. The selection of internal parts for them is shown in the diagram:

Stove rocket from a cylinder

In addition to the gas cylinder itself, to assemble the stove you will need:

• profile pipe 150 x 150 mm for the firebox and loading hopper;
• steel pipes with a diameter of 70 and 150 mm will go to the internal vertical channel;
• the same with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney;
• insulation (basalt fiber with a density of at least 100 kg/m³);
• sheet metal 3 mm thick.

For a master who owns welding, this work will not present any particular difficulty. The top of the cylinder should be cut off along the seam, after first unscrewing the valve and filling it to the top with water. Openings are cut on both sides for installing a firebox and inserting a chimney. A profile pipe is inserted and connected to a vertical channel, which is discharged through the bottom of the cylinder. Further work on the manufacture of the rocket furnace is carried out in accordance with the drawing:

At the end, the upper part must be welded into place, then carefully check all seams for permeability so that air does not flow uncontrollably into the oven. After this, you can attach a chimney with a water jacket (if available) and begin testing.

Important. To create sufficient draft, the top of the pipe must be raised above the level of the firebox to a height of 4 m

Masonry of a rocket-type heater made of bricks

This stove option will require the purchase of fireclay bricks; ordinary ceramic bricks will not work for a rocket stove. The masonry is done using fireclay clay mortar, this is also commercially available. First you need to dig a hole, compact the bottom and pour a foundation measuring 1200 x 400 mm and 100 mm high, as shown in the photo:

After hardening, the foundation is covered with a sheet of basalt cardboard and the combustion chamber, a bunker for loading firewood and a vertical channel are laid. A door is installed at the end of the combustion chamber to clean the ash pan. When the clay has dried, the pit is filled up, and a pre-selected pipe or small barrel with a diameter of 450 mm is placed on the vertical channel. The gap between the brickwork and the pipe walls is filled with fire-resistant insulation, for example, basalt wool.

On last stage a cap made of a large metal barrel with a diameter of 600 mm is put on the structure. First, a cutout is made in its upper part and a pipe is installed to connect the chimney. When the barrel turns over, he will be at the bottom. Then it’s a matter of technology; you can take the chimney directly outside or build another bench with smoke circulation. For this purpose, ordinary ceramic bricks and clay-sand mortar will do. Order brickwork a rocket stove with a small bench are shown in detail in the video:

Making a rocket oven

The easiest way to make a light camping stove, shown in the drawing, is to find household the following materials:

• round steel pipe with a diameter of 133-150 mm and a length of 0.5 m;
• profile pipe 14 x 20 cm, length 0.4 m;
• sheet of metal 2-3 mm thick for grates;
• rod Ø8-10 mm for legs;
• scraps of iron for the stand.

A vertical round pipe is welded to the profile at an angle of 45°, then eyes for the legs are attached to the body (they should be easily removed). A grate is placed inside the inclined firebox, and a lid is attached to the outside. To make it easier to clean the ash below, it is advisable to install a second door.

Advice. Be sure to weld a stand to the upper edge of the fire channel - gases must penetrate between the bottom of the dish and the body, otherwise “rocket” thrust will not occur.

Drawing of an improved version of the portable stove

The design of the furnace can be improved by organizing the supply of secondary air inside the flame tube. Modernization will increase the efficiency and duration of firewood burning. Drill holes on both sides on both sides, covering them with rocket “nozzles” according to the presented drawing. How this stove functions is demonstrated in the video:

From a gas cylinder

The following materials will be used to make a do-it-yourself rocket stove:

• round pipes with transverse dimensions of 70 and 150 mm; with a wall thickness of 4 mm;
• square corrugated pipe 150-200 mm in diameter;
• chimney pipe Ø10-15 cm;
• low-carbon steel (grade St20) sheet;
• dense basalt wool (80-120 kg/m3) or bulk fire-resistant materials, for example, vermiculite or perlite gravel.

To begin, cut the rolled metal into blanks in accordance with the drawing. Then you need to saw off the lid of the propane tank, after unscrewing the valve and filling the tank to the top with water. Tool - ordinary grinder with a circle on metal.

Further assembly technology is as follows:

1. Cut the corrugated pipe lengthwise, 35 mm from the edge. One part will be used to make an ash pan, the second - a blower.
2. Join the firebox and flame tube at an angle of 90°, making appropriate cutouts. Cut an opening on top of the combustion chamber where the loading hopper will be welded.
3. Weld the riser with the firebox, then put on the casing from a 150 mm pipe, making a cutout at the bottom to fit the width of the combustion chamber.
4. Install and scald the bunker for storing firewood. Secure the doors of the firebox and ash pan.
5. Pour perlite sand between the walls of the afterburner and the shell.
6. Make a side opening in the balloon to insert the finished structure. The lid is best made removable.
7. Produce final assembly and weld the chimney pipe.

The master will tell you in detail about the manufacture of a rocket stove from a cylinder in the video:

Made of brick

The simplest rocket stove for cooking can be built from bricks without using mortar, as shown in the diagram with the order. Such a structure can be easily disassembled and moved if necessary.

The rocket stove with a stove bench must be placed on a foundation made of concrete or rubble stone. Material – ceramic or refractory brick, sand-clay or fireclay mortar, respectively. The finished base is covered with roofing felt for the purpose of waterproofing, then a continuous first row of bricks is laid. The further work order looks like this:

1. Lay out the firebox, placing the bricks "on edge". In the same way, cover the chamber, leaving an opening for loading firewood and a riser.
2. Build an afterburner pipe from 9 rows of stones installed “on edge” with ligation.
3. Place a pipe or tin buckets on the riser, fill the resulting cavity with insulation or regular sand.
4. Place the barrel upside down with the flue gas outlet at the bottom.
5. Build a brick bed from 3-4 horizontal channels.
6. Coat the barrels and benches with clay mortar.

Important. The construction is carried out in compliance with the rules of stove masonry, described

The length of the smoke channels inside the stove is limited by the draft in the rocket stove and the external chimney. It is better to keep the total length of the flue pipes within 4 m. To prevent the heater from smoking back into the room, raise the top of the chimney to a height of 5 m, counting from the grate. How to build brick stove– a rocket without a barrel, look at the video:

Design and principle of operation

Rocket furnaces have virtually nothing to do with the design of rocket engines or jet turbines. On the contrary, they are extremely simple in design, in contrast to the above devices. The similarity is noticeable only in the quietly noisy flame and high combustion temperature - all this is observed after the stove reaches operating mode.

Let's consider the design of rocket furnaces - they consist of the following elements:

• Firebox – a vertical or horizontal section in which firewood is burned;
• Combustion chamber (it is also a flame tube, riser) - here the process of fuel combustion occurs with the release of a large amount of heat;
• Blower - necessary for the correct operation of the stove and the start of the combustion process of pyrolysis gases;
• Thermal insulation – envelops the vertical part, forming a drum together with the body;
• Bed – used for its intended purpose;
• Chimney - removes combustion products into the atmosphere, creating draft;
• Dish rack – ensures unhindered heat escape.

Depending on the type of rocket furnace, certain elements may be missing.

Rocket stoves with vertical fireboxes (fuel bunkers) and blowers are the most efficient and convenient - large volumes of fuel are placed here, which ensures long-term combustion.

The most important part of the rocket furnace is the vertical drum. This is where the highest temperature is observed, as flames burst out here

In order for it to start working, it must be thoroughly warmed up. Without this, the combustion process will be weak. To warm up, paper, cardboard, small chips or thin branches are placed in the firebox. As soon as the system warms up, the flame in the drum will begin to burn out with a humming sound, which is a sign that it has reached operating mode.

A rocket (jet) stove without a blower burns wood in a direct way. It is simpler, but less efficient. The model with a blower supplies secondary air to the base of the riser, which causes intense combustion of flammable pyrolysis gases. This increases the efficiency of the unit.

The fireboxes in rocket stoves are located horizontally or vertically (at any angle). Horizontal fireboxes are not very convenient, since the firewood in them has to be moved to the combustion zone manually, independently. Vertical combustion chambers are more convenient - we load fuel into them and go about our business. As the logs burn, they will fall down, independently moving towards the combustion zone.

Features of operating a rocket furnace

1. Before loading the main fuel, the stove must be warmed up. This applies more to large and multifunctional rocket stoves. In them, without preheating, thermal energy will be wasted.
2. To accelerate the furnace, dry paper, wood shavings, and straw are placed in an open ash pit. Sufficient heating of the furnace can be determined by the hum in the furnace, which subsequently subsides. Then the main fuel is placed into the heated rocket stove, which is ignited by the booster fuel.
3. At the beginning of combustion of the main fuel, the ash door is opened completely. After a while, when the stove hum appears, the vent is covered until the hum is replaced by a whisper. In the future, to assess the state of combustion of the stove, you also need to focus on the “stove sound”, opening the ash door slightly when it subsides and closing it when a hum occurs.
4. The larger the jet stove, the smaller the opening for fresh air is needed. It is advisable to use a separate blower in such a furnace.
5. The power of the furnace can be adjusted only by the volume of fuel added, but not by the air supply.
6. When making a large rocket stove yourself, its bunker should be made with a tight-fitting lid, without gaps or cracks. Otherwise, stable operating conditions of the furnace will not be ensured, which can result in the consumption of excess fuel energy.
7. Contrary to popular belief, a rocket stove for a sauna is not suitable for installation, since the stove does not emit infrared radiation in sufficient quantities, which is necessary for heating the walls and transmitting convection into the air masses in a sauna. A rocket stove for a bathhouse, theoretically, can only be installed using the Shirokov-Khramtsov stove type, the characteristics of which are given below.
8. A rocket stove for a garage is a mobile version of a stove design that can quickly heat a room. The main element is a heating tank made of pipe.

Fuel types

With proper assembly and operation, a rocket stove can be fired with any type of solid fuel, wood and its waste. For example, branches, leaves, firewood, coal, corn stalks, cones, pieces of chipboard, pieces of furniture. Fuel can be loaded into the stove in either dry or raw form. This is especially true for its operation in natural conditions, where it is not always possible to find dry raw materials.

Types of stoves for different operating conditions

A rocket stove with a water circuit, brick or metal, can replace a boiler. The heat exchanger here is arranged in the upper part of the flame tube in the form of a surrounding water jacket. There are jumpers inside the jacket for more efficient heat transfer to the coolant. The design is extremely simple; it can heat households up to several tens of square meters.

A rocket stove for the garage can be made from an old pot-bellied gas cylinder or barrel. To do this, two holes are made in the selected container - one in the top lid and the other on the side surface. An L-shaped pipe is inserted inside. Having a little experience working with a welding machine, all work will take you a maximum of half an hour.

You can also make a rocket-type furnace described above from sections of square and metal pipe according to the drawing given.

Also suitable for heating a garage is the heating rocket stove “Ognivo – Khozyain”. This is a store-bought model made from aluminum corrugated pipe and ordinary sheet iron. It works in approximately the same way and allows you to warm a garage of up to 30 square meters. m.

There are no drawings of it in the public domain yet, so you can try to assemble the “Ognivo” stove with your own hands based on its photograph. You can also buy it on the manufacturer's website.

We have already said that to heat large households you will need a long-burning rocket stove with a water circuit. A small one-room household can be heated with a simpler stove and a stove bench - this way you will save space on furniture. It consists of the following nodes:

• Firebox with vertical loading - logs are placed in it;
• Afterburner is a horizontal section in front of the riser (flame tube), where pyrolysis combustion occurs;
• A riser with a hob is a vertical section with a metal body that transfers heat into the room;
• Horizontal channels - they heat the stove bench, after which the combustion products are sent into the chimney.

A rocket stove for heating a one-room house is coated with clay to create a flat and comfortable bed - here you can lay a mattress or a small blanket.

For camping use, the simplest rocket-type stoves made of metal pipes are used. They are compact, easy to light and extinguish, cool quickly and allow you to quickly prepare lunch in the open air. The main thing is not to overdo it with the amount of fuel loaded, so as not to burn the food with a high-temperature flame.

Operating principle

Despite the simplicity of the design, the rocket stove involves the use of two operating principles at once:

• free flow of wood gases through channels;
• pyrolysis is the afterburning of gases that are released during combustion.

The simplest rocket stove uses only the first principle of operation, since there are not enough conditions for pyrolysis.

A neat, homemade rocket stove

First, let's look at the options for jet stoves used for cooking. In such a device, a short pipe located horizontally is used as a firebox, and then it is directed upward. This is the simplest design.

Fuel is placed into the rocket stove directly into the pipe, after which it is ignited. As a result, a flow of hot gases is formed, which is oriented to go out, which means it tends to the vertical section.

At the end of the pipe there is a container used for water or food. There is a gap between it and the pipe so that combustion products can escape.

Many people are interested in why such a stove is called a rocket. The design has a nozzle turned upward, from which, when the device is operating, a flame bursts out. Hence the name.

Flames escaping from a rocket stove

Of course, such a unit will not be able to warm up the room. The rocket furnace must be supplemented with a heat exchanger, as well as channels for removing combustion products. To ensure high temperatures, the vertical part of the pipe is insulated with fire-resistant material.

The nozzle can be covered with a cap. This is necessary for high-quality heat selection. A channel for supplying secondary air is created at the bottom of the horizontal section of the pipe.

The modern version involves a slightly different design. Such a reactive furnace involves the afterburning of pyrolysis gases, which is possible due to the supply of secondary air. In addition, combustion products collect under the top of the hood, which increases the pressure to excess. Over time, heat is transferred outward through the walls of the pipe, forcing the gases to cool and flow downward. Hot air awaits them there, so they have to go into the space between the walls of the hood and the pipe, going into the chimney channel.

Application of a rocket stove with a hood on the site

Due to pyrolysis processes, efficiency increases significantly. And thanks to the flow of gases, a self-regulating system is organized.

Jet furnaces, product drawings

Rocket stoves are divided into portable and stationary. The first devices are smaller in size and have a simpler design. She reminds inverted letter "G". Fuel is placed in the lower crossbar. Thanks to the vertical shape of the main part, natural traction occurs.

Photo 1. Drawing and finished version of a metal rocket stove with dimensions, left and top view.

As the temperature rises, the device works more and more efficiently. Its power is enough to quickly heat water for cooking. for several people. To prevent the wood from burning out too quickly, you need to regulate the draft in the stove. To do this, close or close the fuel door completely.

Portable jet stoves mass-produced. Most popular models "Robinson" and "Ognivo". Due to the simplicity of the design, you can make them yourself.

Stationary devices are somewhat more complicated. The air ducts in the hood are made in such a way that the heated air first rises. Transferring heat to the inner walls, it gradually falls down. Then it passes into the chimney located at the bottom.

Photo 2. Drawing of a rocket furnace made of bricks and a metal barrel. The arrows show parts of the device.

This stove is quite economical to use, since it burns not only firewood, but also pyrolysis gases. The chimney duct of the stove is sometimes not taken out of the room immediately, but is carried out inside a stove bench made of brick and/or clay. Such a couch heats the room to a comfortable temperature. The structure itself is made from large diameter pipes, barrels or bricks.

Important! The device needs preheating before the firebox. First, paper, newspaper, or something else flammable is lit

And only firewood is placed in a warmed-up firebox.

Brick long-burning rocket stove

Since brick accumulates heat, such devices are well suited for heating rooms. Taking into account the duration of burning, one bookmark of fuel is enough for 6-8 hours maintaining a comfortable temperature.

Sometimes the oven is made entirely of brick. The only fittings (doors) you will need are steel or cast iron. In other cases, the outer part of the stove hood is made from a barrel or wide pipe.

Attention! A brick oven requires a separate foundation, separate from the one being built for the building itself. It is advisable to plan its location before construction begins.

A device made of a pipe with a water circuit, diagram

The furnace structure is welded from iron pipes of different diameters.

If you intend to heat a small room, the furnace hood can be made from waste gas cylinder.

In a house of a more impressive size, suitable for these purposes iron barrel.

If you install a water circuit on the stove chimney, you can get a long-burning boiler that will heat the room well.

The water circuit is usually made from gas cylinders.

"Robinson"

This is a simple and reliable camp stove. She's quite capable quickly (in 10 minutes) boil a liter water. In this case, you do not need to lay firewood.

The design was developed back in the last century, but due to its advantages it is still used today. "Robinson" is mass-produced, but it is easy to assemble it yourself.

"Flint"

This oven is similar to the previous version. But the combustion chamber in it shorter and at a more obtuse angle in relation to the chimney. This stove is shaped like an inverted letter “G”.

Step-by-step instruction

Here is an approximate procedure that should be followed when making this stove:

Making a firebox

The firebox is welded using steel pipe or sheets. The firebox lid must close tightly. It should be made of a steel sheet, around the perimeter of which a strip of basalt cardboard is fixed with screws or rivets. For a tighter closure, the lid can be equipped with a screw clamping mechanism.

This is what the firebox and ash pan look like in a simple rocket stove

The ash chamber (indicated in the diagram as Primary Ash Pit) is separated from the main part of the firebox by a grate welded from a rod with a diameter of 8–10 mm. The grille should be installed on corner shelves that are welded to the inner walls.

The door of the ash chamber must also be airtight. It is made from a steel sheet, to which a steel strip is welded in two rows along the entire perimeter. An asbestos cord or basalt cardboard is placed in the groove between these strips.

It remains to weld the flame tube to the firebox.

Primary chimney

1. A 90-degree bend and a small section of pipe must be welded to the pipe that serves as the primary chimney, after which this L-shaped structure is placed inside a barrel or cylinder, that is, the future drum.
2. The outlet with a piece of pipe welded to it should be brought out into one of the openings in the lower part of the drum so that the primary chimney is located strictly in the center. Let us remind you that the upper cut of the pipe must be located at least 70 mm below the upper edge of the barrel (cylinder).
3. After centering the primary chimney, its horizontal tail, which was brought out into the opening in the drum, is welded to its edges with a continuous seam along the entire perimeter.
4. After this, the shank of the primary chimney is welded to the flame pipe, and a tire is welded to the drum on top.
5. A short piece of pipe should be welded to the second opening in the drum, which will act as a secondary ash pan. In it you need to perform a window for cleaning. Along its edges, you need to butt-weld the studs to which the lid will be screwed (remember that we decided not to install the door in this place, since we have to open it quite rarely).
6. A strip of basalt cardboard should be secured along the perimeter of the lid with screws or rivets.

Chimney installation

We weld the horizontal part of the chimney to the outlet of the secondary ash pan, on which the stove bench will subsequently be installed. If the flue is supposed to be made of metal corrugation, then first you need to weld a short pipe to the ash pan, and then attach the corrugation to it using a clamp.

At the final stage, an external chimney is attached to the horizontal flue.

Furnace lining

The metal part of the stove is ready; now it needs to be properly plastered with heat-insulating and heat-accumulating compounds.

The lining of the combustion part (up to the primary chimney) should be done with a mixture of stove clay and broken fireclay bricks, taken in a 1:1 ratio.

Primary chimney lining

The materials used for lining the primary chimney - light fireclay bricks or river sand - are porous, so when open they will quickly become saturated with soot and lose their thermal insulation properties. To prevent this, the lining on the primary chimney is protected with a thin-walled steel casing, and the ends are coated with oven clay.

In accordance with the square-cube law, the ratio of the volume and surface area of ​​the drum depends on its diameter, therefore the lining of the primary chimney is made differently depending on the size of the furnace. Three options are shown in the figure.

Primary chimney lining options

If the lining is made with fireclay bricks, the cavities between its fragments must be filled with construction sand. If river sand rich in alumina is used, you have to resort to more complex technology:

1. The sand is cleaned of large debris (careful preparation is not required).
2. A thin layer is poured into the casing, compacted and wetted so that a crust forms.
3. The subsequent layers are poured in the same way. There should be 5 to 7 in total.
4. The sand lining is dried for one week, then the top is covered with oven clay and the manufacture of the oven continues.

The last step is to coat all parts of the oven with adobe. It is prepared from the following ingredients:

• clay;
• straw (14–16 kg per 1 m3 of clay);
• sand (in a small amount);
• water.

The stated ratio of straw to clay is approximate. In some types of clay, more straw can be added, in others, on the contrary, its amount must be reduced.

Construction of a brick rocket stove

The heater has similar technical properties as metal structure However, the construction of a brick rocket furnace is a labor-intensive process that requires additional financial costs and time.

The cap of a stone rocket stove should be made from a barrel. For safety and ease of use, the stove structure, except for the hood, must be lowered down by digging a hole under the floor. The bottom must be compacted and filled with concrete mortar, in simple words - to make a foundation. The thickness of the concrete coating must be more than 10.0 cm. In order for the foundation to become strong and the brick laying process can begin on it, you will need to wait about 3 days until the mortar is completely hardened. After this period, you can begin to build the walls of the rocket furnace.

For masonry, only fire-resistant building materials can be used, namely:

• Fire-resistant clay mortar;
• Fire bricks.

After installation is completed, you should wait until the solution hardens and the structure becomes complete, strong and reliable. An iron barrel without a bottom is installed on top of the fire channel, and the gap between the barrel and the brick is filled with insulation. When processing the end, you must use the same fire-resistant clay mortar. The largest barrel is placed on top, and a chimney pipe is attached to its lower part.

How to make it yourself

Before you make a rocket furnace, you need to decide on the place of its installation, with the dimensions of the future design, and develop a diagram. The technology of masonry itself is quite simple, any novice builder can master it.

The simplest design of a rocket furnace can be built from 20 bricks per summer cottage and use it to heat food brought from home.

Selecting a location

Before starting construction, the first thing is to choose a location. brick ovens rocket type is recommended to be placed closer to front door. In this case, the ash after cleaning will not need to be carried through the entire room, which will positively affect the overall dust content of the room.

It is also desirable that at the point where the pipe exits there are no rafters located closer to the chimney than 40 cm. And yet, the stove should not be adjacent to the external wall of the house, so that expensive heat is not lost to heating the street.

Preparation of the solution

Cement mortar under the influence of high temperatures quickly cracks, therefore, only a mortar consisting of clay and sand is used for laying brick heating devices.

Their proportions are determined experimentally, depending on the quality of the clay. Most often in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, and the higher the fat content of the clay, the less it is added to the solution.

First, the clay must be soaked, strained, and then sand must be added. The resulting solution should have a consistency similar to thick sour cream. You can check its viscosity level in the following way:

• place a wooden stick or trowel handle into the mixture;
• remove the tool and shake well;
• check the thickness of the adhering layer: if less than 2 mm add clay, more than 3 mm - sand.

The preparation of the mortar must be approached with all responsibility, since only a plastic mixture of the required density can fill all the irregularities of the bricks and ensure their strong adhesion.

Laying a rocket furnace of 20 bricks

Ordering a rocket stove for 20 bricks

Example of a brick rocket stove

Laying a rocket stove with a stove bench

A brick rocket stove, even equipped with a stove bench, is small in size. The order shown in the figures (below) allows you to assemble the structure without the use of metal products. Only the doors will be made of iron. Subsequently, the body can be coated with clay to give it a more rounded shape.

After completing the masonry work, the home-made rocket stove must be dried, carefully, by heating at low intensity. First, no more than 20% of the firewood norm is laid in the firebox, and the device is heated twice a day for 30-40 minutes

According to this scheme, the stove is heated until its outer surface is cleared of damp stains. Depending on the size of the device, drying may take from three to eight days. During this time, the room should be well ventilated, especially in summer.

Accelerating drying can lead to cracking of the masonry, that is, the device will become unsuitable for further heating.

Finished look

Types of rocket stoves

In this section, we will consider the most common types of rocket stoves used in field and stationary conditions.

Simple metal stoves

The simplest wood-fired jet stove is made from an L-shaped piece of large-diameter metal pipe. The horizontal part is short, it represents the firebox. The combustion chamber is located in the vertical part of the pipe, firewood is actively burning here. A small metal plate is often welded into the horizontal section, forming a blower. After warming up, the rocket furnace enters operating mode, and a flame bursts out of its vertical section (flame tube).

Such rocket stoves are used for cooking food in camping or outdoor conditions - due to their small area, they produce little heat, and the vast majority of the thermal energy is lost through the fire tube. Kettles, frying pans and pots are placed on this pipe so that the raging flame ensures their heating. To maintain traction, there are stands in the upper part of the pipe, on which the dishes are placed - combustion products can freely come out.

To make a metal rocket furnace made from an L-shaped piece of pipe more efficient, it is equipped with a metal casing made from an old barrel. A blower can be seen at the bottom of the barrel, and a fire tube peeks out from the top. If necessary, the internal volume is filled with insulation, for example, ash - it does not burn and retains heat well.

Metal rocket stoves with vertical fireboxes located at an angle to the flame tube are the most convenient. Often the combustion openings are closed with lids; in this case, air is taken through the ash pan. Sometimes the firebox is made larger in diameter than the flame tube to ensure long-lasting combustion.

Simple brick ovens

A small-sized brick rocket stove is another simplest option for building a rocket stove with your own hands. Its assembly does not require cement mortar; it is enough to stack the bricks on top of each other to get a convenient brick outdoor unit for cooking at your disposal. In the section on self-assembly of rocket stoves, we will invite you to familiarize yourself with the simplest procedure for self-assembly.

A rocket stove, made with your own hands from brick, can be used to heat households. In this case, a simple arrangement is not enough - you will have to build a stationary version using a special cement mortar. There are many orders for this, you just have to choose suitable option. By the way, some versions of such furnaces include a water circuit.

Advantage of brick rocket kilns:

• Simple design;
• Long-term heat retention;
• The ability to create a comfortable warm bed.

Some models are made combined, using both steel and bricks.

Sophisticated rocket stoves

A jet stove for heating households or for a bath is characterized by increased complexity. The main link here is still the riser (fire tube), enclosed in a metal casing. Its upper part can be used for cooking, forming a kind of cooking surface. The firebox is made large to accommodate an increased amount of solid fuel. The starting materials are metal, bricks and clay.

Based on clay coating, streamlined rocket furnaces of irregular shape are made, which is well perceived by human vision.

There are projects for wood-burning rocket stoves that include additional modules. Their construction schemes include small boilers for preparing hot water, hobs, water jackets and even small ovens. Such stoves will help heat households and create comfortable conditions for human habitation.

A water-jacketed rocket boiler based on wood stove, will help warm up a multi-room building. It is equipped with a water circuit for heating the coolant. Additional convenience is created by samples with beds - these beds are created on the basis of thermal channels between the flame and chimney pipes.

Assembling a rocket stove with your own hands

The easiest way to assemble a camping and garden version of a jet stove. To do this, you do not have to purchase masonry materials and prepare adobe for coating.

Several metal buckets, a stainless steel pipe for the fire channel and small crushed stone for backfilling - that’s all you need to make a rocket stove with your own hands.

The first step is to cut a hole in the bottom bucket with tin snips to allow the flame tube to pass through. It must be done at such a height that there is room under the pipe for crushed stone backfill.

The second step is to install a fire pipe in the lower bucket, consisting of two elbows: a short loading one and a long one for the gases to escape.

The third step is to cut a hole in the bottom of the top bucket that fits over the bottom one. The head of the frying tube is inserted into it so that its cut is 3-4 cm above the bottom.

The fourth is pouring small crushed stone into the lower bucket to half its height. It is needed to accumulate heat and thermally insulate the heat channel.

The last step is making a coaster for dishes. It can be welded from round reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

A more complex, but at the same time durable, powerful and aesthetic version of the rocket stove requires the use of a gas cylinder and thick steel pipe rectangular section.

The assembly diagram does not change. The gas outlet here is organized at the side, not at the top. To prepare food, the top part with the valve is cut off from the cylinder and a flat round plate 4-5 mm thick is welded in its place.

How does a rocket stove work?

Although the design of the “rocket” is simple, it contains two principles of fuel combustion, borrowed from other solid fuel stoves:

1. Natural circulation of hot gases and smoke through the stove channels is a standard solution, as in a potbelly stove;
2. Afterburning of unburned gases (pyrolysis) with limited access of oxygen to the combustion chamber.

The design of the simplest reactive stove, which is intended only for cooking, uses precisely the natural combustion of wood - in an open chamber it is impossible to create conditions for maintaining the pyrolysis reaction and the afterburning of unburned gases.

Let's consider a simple design of a direct combustion rocket stove, which is traditionally installed in an open area in the yard. You can quickly heat a certain amount of water on it, or prepare lunch for your family on vacation. From the figure below, it becomes clear that to manufacture such a sample, you will need two sections of a cylindrical or rectangular iron pipe, which are connected to each other by welding at an angle of 900.

The simplest rocket device

A horizontal section of a metal box acts as a combustion chamber; firewood is placed there. Fuel loading can also be organized vertically - simply add a vertical iron cylinder on top of the horizontal pipe into which firewood will be loaded. Thus, you will get a structure of three pipes or boxes, the lowest of which (horizontal) will work as a firebox. In a stationary scheme, the simplest design of such a stove often uses ordinary red brick, which is placed on a clay mortar.

The efficiency of such a design cannot be called satisfactory, so the craftsmen came up with another scheme that increases the efficiency of the “rocket”. An additional element of this improvement is another pipe of a larger diameter (as you can see, all materials are available and cheap), into which the main pipe of the riser stove (primary chimney) is installed. This way you can increase the overall heating of the stove and the duration of heat retention.

Scheme of a furnace with an insulated riser

On the diagram:

1. Outer casing made of pipe;
2. A pipe that serves as a firebox;
3. Channel for air outlet into the combustion chamber;
4. Insulated area between the body and the riser. The same ash can serve as insulation.

Manufacturing a modernized Robinson furnace

The model described in the previous section can be improved with a door that is installed on the fuel hopper. But if you make the sash on hinges, it will simply tilt upward, which will not allow you to adjust the draft. Such a part can only be in the “closed” or “open” position. It will be much more effective to use a damper that moves vertically or horizontally. To install it, you need to weld small corners measuring 10x10 mm or 15x15 mm onto the hopper.

In addition, the following options for modernizing the furnace are noted:

• the fuel hopper can be made of thicker steel, for example 5 mm;
• replace the round chimney pipe with a square one;
• for the stand, use a different design: as an option, take corners, balls or other elements that are at hand;
• change the stand for the camping rocket stove, for which a metal plate and a piece of reinforcement can be used to make a leg.

To make a modernized stove, you will need the following: materials:

1. Square pipe with a cross-section of 160×160 mm and a length of 400 mm. The firebox will be made from it.
2. Square pipe with a cross-section of 120×120 mm and a length of 600 mm. It is needed to make a chimney.
3. A five-millimeter sheet of steel and a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 7-8 mm. The element separating the fuel compartment and the ash duct will be made from them. The size of the part should be 300×155 mm.
4. Steel sheet 350×180 mm. This material is necessary for the manufacture of a stove stand.
5. Steel sheet measuring 160×100 mm.

Production technology for this model of camping stove is not fundamentally different from creating similar structures:

1. A metal plate with a grate must be welded to the walls of the bunker.
2. Then the back of the container is attached, and the chimney is attached on top.
3. When the entire structure is ready, a metal stand is welded to it from below, and an additional support is made from a piece of reinforcement. You can also use part of the vertical pipe that remains after cutting.
4. Pieces of corners are welded on top of the vertical pipe, which will form a stand for dishes. Its height should be 40-50 mm.
5. The hole in the fuel tank must be closed with a hinged door or a flap inserted into the corners.
6. The finished product can be tested. If everything went well, the welds are cleaned and the reaction furnace is coated with heat-resistant paint. This will not only give the product a more attractive appearance, but will also protect the metal from corrosion.

Jet heating unit from a propane cylinder

A rocket stove made from a gas cylinder is an easy-to-make wood-burning stove that uses fuel economically and effectively warms up the room.

For its assembly it is used:

• empty propane cylinder (unit body);
• steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm (for arranging a chimney and a vertical channel);
• steel profile pipe 150x150 mm (firebox and loading hopper are made);
• sheet steel 3 mm thick.

Making a stove from a gas cylinder requires the use of a welding machine. If you are planning to assemble such a rocket stove with your own hands, the drawings will help you accurately maintain the optimal dimensions of all structural elements.

Scheme of processes in a rocket furnace

At the preliminary stage of work, you should prepare a gas cylinder - turn off the valve, fill the container to the top with water to ensure that gas vapors that can explode from a spark are removed from the container. Then the top part is cut off along the seam. A hole is cut in the lower part of the resulting cylinder for the chimney, and in the bottom for the combustion chamber with an attached firebox. The vertical channel is brought out through a hole in the bottom, and a structure from a profile pipe is welded on the bottom side, according to the rocket drawing.

Attention! Cover from sheet metal should be made removable and a non-flammable seal (asbestos cord) provided for reliable sealing. The flat lid is used as a cooking surface.
. If you are installing a rocket stove from a gas cylinder yourself, you should pay close attention to the quality of the welds and check their tightness - air should not flow uncontrollably into the working stove

If everything is in order, you can install the chimney.

If you are installing a rocket stove from a gas cylinder yourself, you should pay close attention to the quality of the welds and check their tightness - air should not flow uncontrollably into the working stove. If everything is in order, you can install the chimney.

Important! The top of the chimney must be raised to a height of 4 meters relative to the level of the firebox in order to ensure the required draft intensity.

Such a home stove is regulated in power by the volume of fuel loading. The jet stove is put into operation by supplying air through the combustion chamber; this is regulated by the hopper lid. Next, secondary air is constantly supplied to the unit. This heating stove explodes at the end of the combustion process, since it is impossible to shut off the supply of secondary air, and soot deposits on the inner walls of the vertical channel. The casing cover is made removable so that it can be removed periodically.

Boiler unit

A long-burning boiler can be obtained by installing a water circuit on the chimney of a stove made from a gas cylinder or other materials, but according to the same scheme indicated above. However, heating the water in the circuit of such a unit will be inefficient, since the main part of the thermal energy is transferred to the air in the room and to the containers on the hob.

An effective version of a rocket stove made from a metal barrel

If you want to create a rocket boiler for water heating with high efficiency, you will have to sacrifice the cooking function. A do-it-yourself rocket stove according to the drawing presented below can be installed in a short time.

This will require:

• fireclay bricks and refractory masonry composition (for installing the base of the stove with a firebox);
• steel pipe with a diameter of 70 mm (for a vertical channel);
• steel barrel (for the casing);
• fireproof heat insulator;
• sheet steel 3 mm thick and a metal barrel (or pipe) of smaller diameter than the casing (for arranging a water jacket and smoke channels for heating the water circuit);
• steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney;
• container, pipes and connecting pipes for arranging a heat accumulator.

A rocket furnace with a water circuit is characterized by the fact that the thermal insulation of the vertical channel provides an optimal combustion mode for pyrolysis gases, while all the heated air enters the “coil” with a water jacket and releases the main part of the thermal energy there, heating the coolant.

Rocket stove with water circuit

The heat accumulator will continue to supply heated coolant to the heating circuit even after the furnace itself has cooled down. The container with water is equipped with a thick layer of insulation.

How to make a rocket stove with your own hands

He has several stages- selection of a suitable design; selection of materials and tools; direct production.

Project selection

When choosing a suitable project, consider the following factors:

1. The purpose of the stove is whether only cooking is required or also heating the room.
2. Available materials.
3. Approximate power. It depends on it how many servings of food or how much space the device is enough for.

Materials

For a brick structure you will need:

• fireclay (fireproof) brick;
• fireproof mixture for masonry;
• concrete mortar (for the base);
• mineral wool;
• asbestos;
• a whole barrel or an empty gas cylinder for the cap (optional);
• stove doors - combustion chamber and ash pan;
• if the cap is brick - a thick sheet of of stainless steel according to the size of its section.

For finishing the stove the following are used:

• refractory paint;
• clay;
• stones;
• and so on.

For metal, take:

1. Round metal pipe with diameter about 150 mm and length no more than 90 mm(better about 60 mm).
2. Profiled (rectangular) pipe with a cross-section of 100-120 mm and length about a third round.
3. Instead of a rectangular pipe, you can take a sheet of steel thick 3 mm.
4. 3 nuts.
5. Steel rods, plates or long bolts for legs.

Reference. For better traction, take a profiled pipe with the side no more than the diameter of a round one.

Instrument preparation

For production you will need:

• Master OK;
• level;
• welding machine;
• bayonet shovel;
• metal brush;
• level;
• Bulgarian.

Manufacturing, device sizes

There are many variations on this theme. Let's consider making two fundamentally different types of reactive stove. This is a brick stove with a stove bench, which is used indoors, and a camp stove, assembled from metal. If necessary, changes are made, combinations of methods are possible (for example, a heating and cooking device, but made of pipes covered with clay or stones).

How to make a brick oven with a stove bench

First stage- foundation arrangement. A rectangular recess is dug under it, which is then filled with concrete.

For strength, it is better to pre-install the reinforcement. The base must be strictly horizontal.

After the concrete solution has hardened Brick laying begins. External walls are located along the perimeter of the concrete platform. A combustion chamber is formed. On one side of it there is a combustion chamber with a hole for loading firewood. On the other side there are air ducts.

Important! Each row of bricks is also checked with a level. This is done in both planes - horizontal and vertical

Also in the combustion chamber leave a hole for cleaning ash which is closed by a door. When this chamber is ready, a metal barrel is put on it. The gaps are filled with insulation, for example, mineral wool.

If the barrel is not used, it is installed on top cooking stove. Asbestos insulation is placed under it.

Chimney connected to the air duct and discharged to the street.

Then finished the device is decorated. For example, it is coated with clay and covered with paint. Another option is to leave the brickwork.

Jet stove for camping

It consists of two compartments, connected to each other. To assemble it, first cut the pipes at an angle 45°. If you took a metal sheet instead of the second pipe, cut it into the following parts:

• two with sides 300 mm and 150 mm;
• two - 300 mm and 100 mm;
• and one 150 and 100 mm.

Photo 3. Ready-made jet stove for hiking. The device is made of metal pipes.

Then weld them together. You will also need another plate to separate the fuel compartment, its dimensions are 200 mm and 100 mm.

All fragments are welded together in accordance with the diagram. The round pipe is attached to the bottom of the rectangular pipe and in the middle relative to the sides.

Welded from scraps of reinforcement grate. It is convenient to make it retractable in order to lay firewood and then slide it inside the firebox.

The pipe is sawed off 4 rings. They are attached to the top so that the dishes do not block the draft hole.

In a collapsible version legs are installed. Nuts are welded from below, into which long bolts are then screwed. There is another way. Rods or scraps of steel sheet are welded to the bottom. It is less convenient to transport, but there is no need for assembly.

When the design is ready, it needs to be painted. Only fireproof paint is used. This will protect against corrosion and also cover solder marks.

In this design, as in the one described above, the operating principle is to isolate the fire and direct the thermal energy to the right place.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

To prepare a portable rocket stove you will need:

• two tin containers of different diameters;
• a couple of corners;
• steel clamps ø10 cm;
• stainless steel pipe for chimney;
• fine crushed stone;
• Bulgarian;

metal scissors.

Making a camping and garden stove

Making a camping and garden stove

Making a camping and garden stove

In the second bucket - the lower part of the rocket stove, cut a hole for the pipe

We cut the metal into petals and bend them inside the bucket

Forward flow

Forward flow

Place small crushed stones in a bucket

We put the second bucket-lid on the rocket stove pipe

Bend a cookware burner from wire

Bend a hotplate from wire

We melt the rocket oven

Stage 2. Assembling the structure

Step 1. A lid for the structure is made from a smaller bucket. To do this, a hole is made in it for the chimney (the cover is not removed). In this case, it is better to bend the “petals” inward - this way the pipe will be fixed more securely.

The lower half of the bucket is cut off with a grinder.

Step 2. A hole is cut in the bottom of another container to connect the firebox. The tin is cut into “petals” with scissors and bent inward.

Step 3. The forward flow is assembled from a pipe and a couple of corners. The pipe is then inserted into the bucket and connected there to the “petals” using a steel clamp. That's it, the forward flow of the rocket furnace is ready.

Step 4. The space between the direct flow and the walls of the bucket is filled with fine crushed stone. The latter will perform two functions in the design at once - thermal insulation and thermal accumulation.

Step 5. The second bucket (lid) is placed on the jet stove.

Step 6. A hotplate is bent from steel wire.

Note! Instead of a burner, you can install three bricks. . Step 7

All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Step 7. All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet stove, kindling

Nowadays, many stoves have been created that use wood as fuel. A special place among them is occupied by the so-called rocket (rocket) units, which have specific features, irreplaceable in certain operating conditions. Let's talk about them.

The rocket is a real miracle unit!

The rocket stove is a heating and cooking system that operates on wood, is famous for its high technical performance and has a simple design. The operating principle of such a long-burning unit is based on the fact that the gases formed during fuel combustion enter a special bell, in which they burn completely. Due to this, the temperature of the stove increases significantly, and the pressure decreases. Moreover, soot does not form in the reactive heating system.

The combustion cycles of heated gases are repeated constantly (while the stove is heating). This causes the system to enter maximum thrust mode. Its specific value is determined by the characteristics of the homemade unit. If the heating device is assembled truly correctly, the temperature in its hood can reach 1200 °C. In this case, all the fuel used is burned without any residue. It is also important that the heated cap can be used as a hob. You can dry fruits, heat water, and cook food on it.

Initially, the stove we were interested in was designed for use in difficult (for example, camping) conditions. Because of this, special requirements were put forward for its design. The result is a unique unit that:

• makes it possible to cook food in areas where there is no gas or electricity;
• heats the room efficiently;
• retains heat for 6–8 hours (minimum) after the wood burns out;
• has a high efficiency;
• quite safe to use.

In addition, the rocket has a design that allows you to add a new portion of firewood to the firebox without stopping the combustion process. The operation of a unit with such capabilities, of course, appeals to any person. This determines the high popularity of the described heating systems both among lovers of outdoor activities and among ordinary summer residents who need unpretentious and efficient stoves.

Important point. If you plan to create the simplest jet unit with your own hands, it can only be heated with dry wood. Damp wood can cause backdraft. However, it is not recommended to fire more complex rockets with wet wood, since they will not be able to provide the high temperature required for burning heated gases.

The described heating devices must not be thrown away without supervision. Light the stove, wait until the fuel burns out completely. Another disadvantage of rocket equipment is the impossibility of heating private baths (in particular, their steam rooms) with its help. This is due to the fact that the jet unit produces very little infrared heat, which is what is required for bathing procedures. Missiles probably have no other disadvantages.

Types of jet heating systems – what do you need?

The simplest rockets are made from almost any tin container. A portable stove can be made from a bucket, a can in which paint was stored, and so on. Such systems are ideal for an outdoor picnic; they are often used on construction sites. Simple stoves are not suitable for heating rooms. They are used exclusively for cooking and heating water. A rocket made from a bucket can be heated with a small splinter, dry cones and leaves, and bunches of branches. In such a stove, combustion products do not have time to form wood combustible gas. They immediately go down the chimney.

More complex heating structures are created from an old gas cylinder or from a metal barrel and brick. These stoves are necessarily equipped with a riser to increase draft and a horizontal smoke exhaust duct. There are also rockets made entirely of brick. They can be equipped with several chimneys at once and are used for heating large rooms and heating floors. And if you want, you can actually build even a full-fledged stove-bed.

We will tell you how to make all of the indicated types of reactive heating devices yourself. Let’s start our master class with the simplest thing - making a basic garden camping stove from two tin containers (buckets, cans). In addition to them, we will need steel clamps with a cross-section of 10 cm, metal corners, an angle grinder, a stainless steel chimney pipe, scissors for metal, crushed stone. The scheme of work will be as follows:

1. 1. Take two buckets. From a container of smaller volume (diameter) we make a lid for our rocket. Cut a hole in the bucket. It is necessary for organizing a chimney.
2. 2. In the larger bucket, cut another hole at the bottom. We will connect the firebox to it. We perform all operations with metal scissors, bending the resulting petals (pieces of tin) inward.
3. 3. We construct a direct flow from pipes and corners. We insert it into the bucket, and then, using a clamp, connect it with the curved petals.
4. 4. Fill the space between the forward flow and the housing of the heating device with crushed stone. This building material will play the role of a heat accumulator and at the same time a heat insulator.
5. 5. We put the second bucket on the stove.
6. 6. We bend a small burner from wire on which you can place dishes with water and food.

It is advisable to paint the portable rocket with any paint with high level heat resistance. After drying, we can use a basic cooking stove. Note! The rocket is ignited through a pipe extending from the forward flow.

A stove made of a barrel and bricks – both cooks and heats!

The construction of a stationary rocket launcher requires significantly more money and time. We prepare the following materials and tools: a metal chimney pipe, red (necessarily heat-resistant) brick, a shovel, an old barbecue, a metal brush, a trowel, cement and sand (it is better to immediately buy a ready-to-use mixture of these materials), reinforcing bars, a little perlite, adobe and expanded clay, heat-resistant paint, 200 liter barrel. Let's start building a stove made of bricks and a metal barrel:

1. 1. We dig a hole 0.3–0.5 m deep in the floor. We will hide a horizontal chimney in it, without which the rocket launcher will not work.
2. 2. We burn a 200-liter barrel and clean it thoroughly. We install a flange in the container that will connect it to the chimney. After this, apply several layers of heat-resistant paint to the container. We use the barrel prepared in this way as a hood for the heating unit.
3. 3. We arrange the foundation. We make a simple formwork from boards, deepen 2-3 bricks into the ground at the furnace installation site. We place reinforcing bars on top. Then we lay bricks in the lower part of the combustion chamber (along the entire perimeter). Fill the structure with cement-sand mortar.

After the filling has dried, we begin laying. It is performed using . We bring the first tier of masonry up. We only need to leave a hole for the firebox. On the second line we form a channel (lower) of the heating structure. It should be covered on the third tier, and in such a way that we have two holes left. One of them is intended for the vertical channel, the second - directly for the combustion chamber.

Next, we install a tee in the barrel to clean the chimney. It is not necessary to install it, but it is advisable if you plan to use the stove for a long time. After this we put in a vertical channel. We lay out the rising section of the structure (we take its diameter to be about 18 cm) using the “boot” technology. Then we put the old water heater on the rising part of the furnace. We fill all the voids that remain after this operation with perlite.

Now we cover the base of the rocket unit casing with clay and surround the base of our structure with sandbags. We fill all remaining free areas with expanded clay. We connect the chimney pipe to the structure, turn the barrel-casing over and pull it onto the ascending part of the stove. The final work is lining the chimney with sand in bags and filling them with expanded clay. Then we give the structure the required shape using clay (fireclay), install a barbecue grill in the neck of the homemade rocket and cover it with a lid.

The last step is to seal the existing seams on the stove. In principle, we can already do a test run of our design. But experts advise additionally connecting a separate air duct from the street to the stove. It is important. The heating rocket requires a lot of air to function properly. It won't be enough indoors. A street air duct is guaranteed to solve this problem.

Rocket heating from a cylinder - let's work with a welding machine

To build a rocket, we choose a heat-resistant and non-explosive cylinder. An all-metal 50-liter tank in which propane is stored is optimal for these purposes. Such a cylinder has standard sizes: height – 85 cm and cross-section – 30 cm.

Such parameters are ideal for self-production of the furnace. The modest size and light weight of the cylinder do not make it difficult to work with. At the same time, it is allowed to burn any wood fuel in the finished rocket. You can also take 27 or 12 liter propane cylinders. They make compact portable stoves. But the power indicators of such devices are small. It is not practical to use them for heating rooms or country houses.

To build a furnace, in addition to the cylinder, you will need:

• steel pipes with a cross section of 15, 7 and 10 cm (the first two will be used to organize a vertical internal channel, the third - to the chimney);
• profile pipe product 15x15 cm (we will make a loading compartment and firebox from it);
• 3mm thick sheet of metal;
• dense (100 or more kg/cubic m) basalt fiber (it will serve as a heat-insulating material).

There are various drawings on the Internet for creating a stove from a cylinder. We propose to follow this scheme.

The algorithm for manufacturing a rocket launcher is simple. First, we bleed all the gas from the tank. Then we turn out the valve, fill the tank with water (to the top) and cut off its upper part along the seam. We cut out the windows on both sides of the gas cylinder, which are required for connecting the chimney and installing the fuel chamber.

After this, we insert the profile tubular product into the container and connect it to the channel (vertical). The latter is taken out through the bottom of the tank. Next, we carry out all the necessary actions, focusing on the presented drawing, as well as on the video, which we offer home craftsmen for review.

At the end of the work, we weld the cut part of the container in its place and analyze all the resulting seams for permeability. Uncontrolled entry of air into the structure must not be allowed. If the seams are reliable, we connect a chimney to a home-made system. We weld the legs to the bottom of the rocket balloon. We install the stove on a steel sheet with parameters of 1.5x1 m. The unit is ready for use!

Stove-couch - for lovers of special comfort

The heating unit with a place to sleep and rest is equipped with a special heat exchanger. Its channels are interconnected. They are made from non-flammable materials. The heat exchanger is installed under the plane of the bed. The design of such a furnace is very thoughtful and relatively complex. The bed itself is a surface made of brick or stone and clay. When the stove burns, the heated gas moves through the heat exchange channels, gives off heat upward, and then is removed through the smoke exhaust duct outside the house. The height of the chimney is made within 3–3.5 m. The stove is mounted at the edge of the stove bench (on one side). In most cases, it is equipped with a cooking surface. A detailed drawing of this system is presented below.

Elements of the furnace in the diagram:

• blower - 1a;
• fuel bunker – 1b;
• channel for secondary air - 1v;
• flame tube – 1g;
• riser (primary chimney) - 1d.

The fuel chamber is equipped with a blind cover, and the blower is equipped with a special regulator for adjusting the amount of air supplied. The flame tube has a length of 15–20 cm. The secondary air channel is necessary for complete combustion of gases. The riser cross-section is 7–10 cm. A chimney with a diameter of 10 cm is recommended for cases when we want to obtain highest power rockets. A riser with a cross section of 7 cm provides optimal indicator useful action of the stove. The flame tube and the primary chimney need high-quality thermal insulation.

We will make the rocket body from a gas cylinder, although a metal barrel can also be used. Under the housing cover (2a), the primary chimney supplies heated air, and the heated gases leaving the riser heat the cooking device (2b). Other body elements:

• lower part (2d);
• heat exchange channels (2g);
• shell - metal insulation of the chimney (2c);
• exit to the cleaning chamber (2e).

The smoke exhaust line must be absolutely sealed throughout. At a height of 1/3 from the upper end of the drum (housing), the gases are already at a low temperature. They have time to cool down. From approximately the specified height, the rocket-bed is lined (all the way to the floor). This process refers to the thermal insulation of the furnace with special compounds. The second cleaning chamber in diagram (3a) is needed to remove carbon deposits from the hog (4) - the heat exchanger. It must be equipped with a sealed door (3b). Now that we have figured out the design of the bed, we can begin to build it.

Building a rocket with a place to sleep - the first steps are the most important!

Before starting work, mix all the necessary ingredients:

• Kiln clay (designation 5b in the diagram), which is connected to crushed stone. This composition plays the role of the main heat insulator.
• Saman (5a). It is a composition of straw and any clay at hand, diluted with water to a relatively thick consistency.
• Seeded sand (5g).
• Heat-resistant lining (5v). It is made from equal parts fireclay sand and clay.
• Clay of medium fat content (5d). It is used for laying rockets.

We make a bed for our couch. Essentially, we need to knock down high-strength shields under the stove bench and directly under the stove. The frame of the buildings is made from wooden blocks 10x10 cm. We make frame cells with dimensions of 60x120 cm (for a bed) and 60x90 cm (for heating installation). Then we sheathe the resulting skeleton with 4 cm. And the façade of the couch can be finished later with sheets of plasterboard.

Before installation, it is advisable to treat wood products with Biocide, and then apply two layers of water emulsion to them.

We lay 4 mm thick basalt cardboard on the floor where we will place the heating rocket. In shape and geometric parameters, it must be similar to the characteristics of the bed. We install an iron roofing sheet on top of the basalt lining. Before the firebox, it will extend about 25 cm from under the unit. We install the previously made bed in the place prepared for it. We punch a hole on the wall at a height of 13 cm above the level of the couch (at one of its ends). It is needed for the installation of a chimney.

The next stage is the installation of formwork around the perimeter of the bed and filling the installed structure with adobe. Carefully level the surface of the mixture using the rule. We wait 14–20 days until the adobe hardens. During this time, you can make the body of the heating structure from a gas cylinder according to the previously described scheme. We weld the combustion components of the rocket (blower, flame duct, chamber) into a single structure with a gas container and coat it with a heat-resistant lining. Important! Apply the composition in a continuous layer only at the bottom. We do not treat the top and sides of the structure with the solution.

Next, we install another formwork under the area where the rocket will stand. It will allow us to make heat-resistant thermal protection for the stove. The height of the formwork structure is about 10 cm. Fill it with a mixture of crushed stone and oven clay. Then we do one by one:

1. 1. Shell. We bend it from a sheet of steel or use a ready-made pipe with a cross-section of 15–20 cm.
2. 2. Furnace structure.
3. 3. Cleaning chamber. This element is made from 1.5 mm galvanized steel. We cut an opening on the side with a cross-section of 16–18 cm. The chimney pipe will subsequently fit into it.

Completion of work - the warm bed will turn out great!

We put a drum from a gas cylinder on the primary chimney. We lay oven clay on the bottom of the installed housing, using a spatula to form an inclined surface (about 7°), which is directed towards the cleaning compartment window. Then we put a metal round timber on the chimney. It should be pressed into the clay composition. Then we pull the shell onto the riser and coat it with medium-fat clay. The next steps are:

1. 1. We line the chimney from the inside. We use sand. It should be covered in separate layers. We wet and tamp each of them. The total number of layers is 7. Place 5 cm of medium-fat clay on top of the sand.
2. 2. Place a cleaning box, coating its bottom and side surfaces with clay. We install the opening of the transition channel into the hole of the drum and press it as hard as possible. We fill all remaining gaps with clay. It is necessary to achieve complete tightness of this stove unit.
3. 3. We install another formwork along the (external) contour of the bed. It should rise about 9 cm above the edge of the hole for the hog. Fill the formwork with adobe mixture.
4. 4. We stretch the corrugated pipe along the entire length of the rocket-bed. We connect one end of the corrugated product to the cleaning compartment.
5. 5. We lay the fixed corrugated pipe in a spiral and insert its second end into the chimney outlet opening, securing the joint with a clay compound.
6. 6. We treat the entire length of the bur with adobe solution and compact this coating.
7. 7. We fix the housing covers and cleaning chambers with bolts, under which we install rubber gaskets.
8. 8. Coat the drum with adobe (don’t touch only the top part) with a layer of about 10 cm.

After about 17 days, the adobe will dry out. We will be able to remove the formwork and apply a special enamel to the drum that can withstand heating up to 750 °C. Then experts advise treating the adobe surface with acrylic-based varnish (preferably in two layers). This coating will protect the structure from moisture and make the stove very attractive in appearance.

The heated bed is done. We test our structure before starting its full operation. The check is carried out simply. We put some paper in the firebox, set it on fire, and monitor the behavior of the rocket. If everything is fine - there are no frightening sounds, we add firewood. After a while the unit will begin to hum. At this moment, close the oven vent. We wait. When the humming gives way to a gentle whisper (the soft sound of a working stove), open the vent. Next, we use the heating installation for its intended purpose.

Today, quite a lot of varieties and models of wood-burning stoves have been developed and implemented. In this series, the do-it-yourself rocket stove, the drawings of which will be presented below, fully meets all expectations. Such a heating structure certainly deserves close attention, as it has some specific advantages that are indispensable in certain conditions.

This version of a wood-burning stove is simple and original in design and does not require a large number of expensive components and materials for production. Install such a stove by making it on our own, probably anyone can do it, even if they have no experience in constructing such structures, but can read the provided drawings and work with some tools.

It is interesting to note that, if necessary, a rocket stove can be made even in 20–30 minutes, for example, from an iron can. However, if you make every effort, it is possible to get a comfortable stationary structure for your home with a heated couch that can even replace an ordinary sofa. At the same time, a rocket stove will not require complex arrangements, like bell-type or Russian stoves, which are massive structures.

Operating principle of the rocket stove

The rocket stove was originally conceived as one of the functional survival items in difficult conditions. Therefore, its design had to meet certain criteria:

• Efficient room heating.
• Possibility of cooking.
• High efficiency of the device when used for heating of various wood fuels of any quality.
• The ability to add fuel without stopping the combustion process.
• In addition, the stove had to retain heat for at least 6-7 hours to allow the owners to spend the night in comfortable conditions.
• Maximum safety of the design, in terms of eliminating the possibility of carbon monoxide leaking into the room.
• Another condition that had to be met was the simplicity and accessibility of the design for its manufacture by any non-professional.

Therefore, we took as a basis basic principles several types of heating devices using wood solid fuel:

• Free circulation of heated air and gases through all channels. The stove operates without forced air, and the draft is created by a chimney that draws out combustion products. The higher the pipe is raised, the more intense the draft.
• The principle of afterburning gases released during combustion from fuel (pyrolysis), which is used in long-burning devices. This operating principle is extremely important due to the high efficiency of the device, which is achieved by creating special conditions for the afterburning of pyrolysis gases for the most complete use of the energy potential contained in the fuel.

The term “pyrolysis” means the decomposition of solid fuel into volatile substances under the influence of high temperatures and simultaneous “oxygen starvation”. Under certain conditions, they are capable of burning, also releasing a large amount of thermal energy. It is important to know that the pyrolysis of insufficiently dried wood takes quite a long time. long time in the gas phase, that is, the released pyrolysis gas will require a lot of heat to create a mixture (wood gas) that can burn completely. Therefore, it is not recommended to use wet fuel for a rocket stove.

Variety of rocket stoves - from simple to complex

The simplest design of a rocket stove

In a simple design of a rocket stove, heated by bunches of branches or splinters, combustion products are almost immediately sent into the chimney, without having time to form flammable wood gas in the stove body, so it will not be possible to heat the room with it. Such ovens can only be used for cooking. This model is manufactured in stationary and mobile versions; it only operates on the principle of free circulation of heated air, since the required conditions are not created in it for a full-fledged pyrolysis process.

In such furnaces, a small section of pipe is used as a fuel chamber. It can have a horizontal position, as shown in the diagram, or be turned upward. In the latter case, fuel is loaded vertically.

After igniting the fuel placed in the pipe, the heated gases released from it rush up the vertical section of the pipe to the outside.

Containers for cooking or heating water are installed on top of the vertical pipe. To ensure that gases escape freely and the bottom of the container does not completely block the draft in the pipe, a special metal stand is installed on top of the stove. She creates gap of the required size, which Helps maintain cravings.

On top is a very original stand for a container with heated water

By the way, this simplest type of furnace device was the first to be invented, and because of the upward opening of the firebox and the flame escaping from it, the furnace most likely received the name rocket. In addition, if the combustion mode is incorrect, the structure emits a whistling “rocket” hum, but if the stove is configured correctly, it rustles quietly.

Advanced Rocket Stove

Since it is impossible to heat the room using the simplest rocket stove with a free exit of gases, the design was later supplemented with a heat exchanger and smoke exhaust ducts.

After the improvements, the entire operating principle of the rocket stove has changed somewhat.

• To maintain the high temperature of heated air in a vertical pipe, it was insulated with fire-resistant material, and then covered on top with another metal casing made from a larger diameter pipe or a metal barrel with a closed top.
• A door was installed on the opening of the firebox, and a separate channel for secondary air appeared in the lower part of the furnace. Through it, blowing began to take place (necessary for afterburning pyrolysis gases), which previously occurred through an open firebox.
• In addition, the chimney pipe was moved to the lower part of the body, which forced the heated air to circulate throughout the body, going around all the internal channels, rather than going directly into the atmosphere.

• The combustion products, which have a high temperature, first began to rise to the ceiling of the outer casing, accumulate there and heat it, which made it possible to use the outer horizontal surface as a hob. Then, the flow of gases cools down and goes down, turns into an elbow and only from there goes into the chimney pipe.
• Thanks to the intake of secondary air, gases are burned at the end of the lower horizontal channel, which significantly increases the efficiency of the furnace. The free circulation of gases creates a self-regulating system that limits the flow of air into the combustion chamber, since it is supplied only as the hot gases cool under the “ceiling” of the housing.

A very popular scheme is from metal profile and an old gas cylinder

The stove model shown in the figure operates like a “stove stove” and has a chimney leading outside. However, it is unsuitable for use in residential premises, since, due to changes in external pressure, reverse draft may occur, which will contribute to the entry of carbon monoxide into the room. Therefore, such a stove should always be supervised, and it is most often used for heating utility rooms or a garage.

Rocket stove with a warm bed

A rocket stove with a stove bench is also constructed on the principle of afterburning pyrolysis gases, but in this version the heat exchanger is a structure of combined long channels coming from the stove and laid or formed from non-flammable plastic materials under the surface of the stove bench.

It should be noted that such a heating system is by no means new, and, in fact, such a rocket stove has a fairly rich history. It was invented a long time ago, presumably in Manchuria, called “kan”, and is still traditional for peasant houses in China and Korea.

Similar stoves called “kan” have long been used to heat homes in East Asia.

The system is a wide bed made of stone, brick and clay, inside which The air heated in the stove passes through the arranged channels, which are essentially an elongated chimney. Passing through this labyrinth and gradually giving off heat, the gas flow, cooling, exits into a chimney with a height of 3000 ÷ 3500 mm, located on the street, next to the house.

The stove itself is located at one end of the stove bench and, as a rule, is equipped with a hob, which allows it to be used for cooking.

The top of the stone-clay structure “kan” is covered with straw or bamboo mats, or a wooden flooring is placed there. At night, the couches were used as beds, and during the day - in the form of a seat, on which, traditionally for Asian peoples, a special low table 300 mm high was installed - meals were taken behind it.

This heating system is quite economical in terms of fuel consumption, since to heat it it is enough to use a medium-thick branch. This rocket stove can retain heat for a long time, creating comfortable conditions for sleeping throughout the night.

And Korean “ondol” stoves probably became the prototypes of modern “warm floors”

Korean homes use a heating system similar to “kan”, which is called “ondol”. This heating option, unlike the Chinese one, is installed not inside the couch, but under the entire floor of the house. In principle, it can be argued that this method of transferring and distributing heat into living spaces seems to form the basis for the design of the modern “warm floor” system.

Furnace design with connected the pipes to it can be clearly seen in the diagram presented.

Nowadays, with the modern rich variety of materials, the channels in this furnace design can be made of metal pipes laid in the form of a coil and well insulated with non-flammable materials. Therefore, the last section of the chimney system can exit from the structure of the stove next to the stove itself or at the end of the stove, and then go through the wall into a chimney installed on the street.

In the presented diagram you can see the results of the design work, which made it possible to achieve a relative simplicity of the scheme, which has high efficiency, and also meets all the requirements for a speech rocket.

Fuel is loaded vertically into the combustion hole. Then it is set on fire, and, burning out, gradually settles down. The air that supports combustion enters the bottom of the combustion chamber through an opening that acts as a blower. It must provide sufficient air flow for afterburning of the released products of thermal decomposition of wood. But, at the same time, there should not be too much air, since it can cool the initially released gases, and in this case, the process of afterburning the pyrolysis gases will not be able to take place, and the combustion products will settle on the walls of the housing.

In this version, the vertical loading furnace has the chamber has a blind cover, which will eliminate the risk of gases entering the room when creating reverse draft.

In a completely isolated volume of released gas, thermal energy is generated, temperature and pressure rise, and thrust increases. As the fuel burns, the burning gases escape through the channels of the furnace body into the heat exchanger, heating the internal surfaces along the way. Since the channels have a complex configuration, gases are retained inside the furnace for a longer time, giving off heat to the body and surfaces of the channels, which, in turn, they heat the surface of the couch and, accordingly, the room itself.

Over time, any furnace and its ducts require cleaning of soot deposits. In this design, the problem area is the heat exchanger pipes located inside the bench. In order to carry out these preventive measures without problems, a hermetically sealed cleaning door is installed at the level of the heat exchanger turning from the furnace body into the pipes under the stove bench (indicated “Secondary Airtight Ash Pit” in the diagram). It is in this place that all unburnt products of thermal decomposition of wood concentrate and settle. The door is periodically opened and the passages are cleared of soot - this process guarantees long-term operation of the chimney. In order for the door to close tightly, asbestos gaskets must be secured to its inner edges.

How to properly heat a rocket stove?

To obtain maximum effect heating, it is recommended to preheat the stove before adding the bulk of the fuel. This process is carried out using paper, dry shavings or sawdust, which are set on fire in the firebox. When the system warms up, it will change the sound it makes - it may fade out or change its tone. The main fuel is placed into the heated unit, which will ignite from the heat already created by heating.

Any firewood and even thin branches are suitable for the rocket stove, but the main thing is that they be dry.

Until the fuel burns well, the combustion chamber or ash door must be kept open . But only when the fire becomes intense and the stove begins to hum, the door is closed. Then, during the combustion process, the access of air from the ashpit is gradually blocked - here you need to focus on the tonality of the sound of the stove. If the air damper accidentally closes and the intensity of the flame decreases, it must be opened slightly again and the stove will flare up with renewed vigor.

Advantages and disadvantages of the rocket stove

Before moving on to a description of the manufacturing process of a rocket stove, it is advisable to summarize information about its advantages and disadvantages.

Rocket stoves are quite popular due to their positive qualities , which include:

• Simplicity of design and small amount of materials.
• Even a novice master can make any of the furnace designs, if desired.
• The construction of a rocket stove does not require the purchase of expensive building materials.
• Undemanding requirement for forced chimney draft, self-regulation of stove operation.
• High efficiency rocket furnace with a pyrolysis gas afterburning system.
• Possibility of adding fuel while firing the stove.

Despite the large number of advantages of this design, its operation also has a number of shortcomings :

• When using the simplest design of a rocket stove, you can use only dry branches and splinters, since excess moisture can cause backdraft. In more complex system It is also not recommended to use wet wood with the device, because it will not provide the required temperature for pyrolysis to occur.
• The rocket stove cannot be left unattended during combustion, as this is very unsafe.
• This type of device is unsuitable for heating a bathhouse, since it does not give off enough heat in the infrared range, which is especially important for a steam room. A rocket stove with a stove bench can only be suitable for the recreation room of a sauna building.

Video: special opinion on rocket stoves

Making a rocket stove with a stove bench

Rocket stoves can have different sizes, and a variety of materials are used for their manufacture - these are metal pipes, barrels and gas cylinders, bricks and clay. A combined option consisting of pipes, stones, clay and sand is also quite acceptable. It is he who deserves special attention.

From a gas cylinder you can make a stove that is simple in design, including using it for a version with a stove bench.

How to make a simple oven in itself is more or less clear from the above drawings and a description of its work, so it is worth considering the manufacture of a heating unit equipped with a stove bench.

Video: homemade rocket stove from a gas cylinder

You might be interested in information on how to do it with step-by-step instructions

To make it completely clear what and where is located in the design of the rocket furnace, this scheme will be used to describe the work.

So, the rocket stove in question consists of the following elements:

• 1a- a blower with an air supply regulator, with which the stove is adjusted to the desired mode;
• 1b– fuel chamber (hopper) with a blind lid;
• 1c- a channel for supplying secondary air, which ensures complete combustion of pyrolysis gases emitted by wood;
• 1g– flame tube 150÷200 mm long;
• 1d– primary chimney (riser), with a diameter of 70÷100 mm.

The flame tube should not be made too long or short. If this element is too long, then the secondary air in it will quickly cool down and the process of afterburning pyrolysis gases will not reach the end.

The entire design of the flame tube and riser must be thermally insulated as efficiently as possible. The task of this node is to ensure the complete combustion of pyrolysis gases and the supply of hot masses from the riser to other channels, which will already transfer heat to the room and to the bench.

It should be noted here that in order to obtain optimal efficiency from the furnace, the diameter R the aizer should be made with a size of 70 mm, and if the goal is to achieve the maximum power of the furnace, then it should be made with a diameter of 100 mm. In this case, the length of the flame tube should be 150÷200 mm. Further, when describing the installation of the furnace, dimensions will be given for both cases.

It is impossible to immediately let the heated air from the riser into the heat storage, since its temperature reaches 900÷1000 degrees. High-quality heat-resistant heat-accumulating materials have a rather high price, therefore, most often, adobe (clay mixed with chopped straw) is used for these purposes. This material has a high heat capacity potential, but is not heat-resistant, so the design of the secondary furnace (cylinder body) begins with an air temperature converter, which must be heated to only 300 degrees. Part of the generated heat is immediately given into the room and replenishes the current heat loss.

The described functions are performed by the furnace body, made from a standard 50 l gas cylinder.

• 2a– furnace body cover. Under it, heated air enters from the riser;
• 2b– a cooking surface that is heated from the inside by heated gases escaping from the riser;
• 2v– metal insulation of the riser (shell);
• 2g– heat exchange channels. Heated gas enters them, dispersing under the ceiling of the case;
• 2d– the lower metal part of the case;
• 2e– exit from the housing to the cleaning chamber.

The main task when arranging these parts of the furnace is to ensure complete tightness of the smoke exhaust line.

In the housing (drum), at a height of ⅓ from its “ceiling”, the gases cool down and already have a normal temperature for their entry into the storage tank. Approximately from this height and to the floor of the room, the oven thermally insulated several layers of different compositions - this process is called lining.

• 3a– the second cleaning chamber, through which the heat exchanger (“hog”) located under the stove bench is cleaned of carbon deposits;
• 3b– sealed door of the second cleaning chamber;
• 4 - “hog”, a long horizontal section of the chimney located under the stove bench.

Having passed through the “hog” pipes and almost completely transferred the heat to the adobe bench, the gases escape through the main chimney channel into the atmosphere.

Having understood the structure of the rocket furnace in detail, you can proceed to its construction.

Building a rocket oven with a stove bench - step by step

First of all, you need to prepare lining compositions. Their components will cost very little, since they can often be found completely free, literally right under your feet:

• 5a– adobe. As mentioned above, this is clay mixed with chopped straw and mixed with water until the masonry mortar becomes thick. Any clay for making adobe is suitable, since it will not be influenced by external atmospheric influences;
• 5 B- kiln clay mixed with crushed stone. This will be the main heat insulator. The mortar should have the consistency of a mixture for laying bricks;
• 5v– heat-resistant lining made of oven clay and fireclay sand in proportions 1:1 and having the consistency of plasticine;
• 5g– ordinary sifted sand;
• 5d – medium-fat clay for stove masonry.

Step-by-step work on the design is carried out in the following sequence:

Bed for the couch

Having prepared all the necessary compositions, a bed is made - a durable wooden shield required configuration. Its frame is made of timber with a cross-section of 100×100 mm. Frame - with cells measuring 600x900 mm under the stove and 600x1200 mm under the stove bench. If a curvilinear shape of the bed is planned, then it is brought to the desired configuration with the help of boards and scraps of timber.

The bed is a frame base for the further construction of the furnace structure

The frame is sheathed with a tongue and groove board 40 mm thick - it is fixed across the long sides of the frame. Later, after the installation of the stove is completed, the side façade of the bed will be covered with plasterboard. All details wooden structure beds must be impregnated with biocide and then painted twice with a water-based emulsion.

Next, on the floor, in the place of the room where the stove will be installed, mineral cardboard (cardboard made of basalt fibers) 4 mm thick, the size and shape completely corresponding to the parameters of the bed, is laid. Directly under the stove, a sheet of roofing iron is fixed on top of the cardboard, which will extend 200–300 mm from under the stove in front of the firebox.

Then, the bed is transferred and firmly installed on the selected and covered location oven, so that the frame stands stable, without play. At the end of the future bed, at a height of 120–140 mm above the bed level, a hole for the chimney is made in the wall.

Formwork and pouring the first level of adobe mixture

A durable formwork is installed along the entire contour of the bed, having a height (A -40÷50 mm) and a smooth upper edge.

The adobe mixture (5a) is poured into the formwork and its surface is leveled using the rule. The sides of the formwork serve as beacons for leveling.

Manufacturing of the furnace body

• While the adobe filling dries, and this process will take 2-3 weeks, you can start making the stove body from a cylinder. It should be noted that a rocket stove is made from a barrel in exactly the same way.

Cutting a gas cylinder and making a lid with a “skirt”

• The first step is to cut off the top of the empty cylinder to obtain a hole with a diameter of 200÷220 mm. Next, this hole is closed with a pre-prepared steel round timber 4 mm thick - this surface will play a role hob. After this, another cut is made 50÷60 mm below the hob to form a lid.
• It is welded along the outer perimeter of the resulting cover, so-called“skirt” made of thin sheet steel. The width of the skirt should be 50÷60 mm, the seam of this strip is welded. If you have no experience in welding, then it is better to entrust this process to a professional.
• After this, along the entire circumference of the skirt, stepping back from the bottom edge of 20÷25 mm, holes are evenly drilled into which the bolts will be screwed.
• Next, the lower empty part of the cylinder is cut off at a height of approximately 70 mm from the bottom. Then, a hole is cut in the bottom of the cylinder to allow the riser to enter the body.
• After this, on inner edge The lid must be secured using Moment glue with a well-woven asbestos cord, and then immediately put it on the cylinder body and press down on top with a load of 2.5–3 kg. The cord will serve as a sealing gasket. Next, through the holes in the metal “skirt”, through holes are drilled in the cylinder body, in which threads are cut for the bolts.
• After this, you need to measure the depth of the case, since it is necessary to determine the height of the riser.
• Then the cap is removed from the cylinder to protect the gasket from being completely saturated with glue, otherwise the asbestos will lose its elasticity.

Manufacturing of the furnace combustion part

The next step is to make the following elements from a square pipe (or channel) with a cross-section of 150×150 mm: 1a - blower, 1b - combustion chamber; 1g - heat channel.

Raiser (1d) is made from round pipe with a diameter of 70÷100 mm.

The angle of insertion of the combustion chamber (hopper) into the blower and flame pipe can vary within 45÷60 degrees from the horizontal. Its upper edge is placed flush with the blower element protruding forward, as shown in the diagram.

At the bottom of the blower and flame pipes, you need to separate the secondary air channel (1c). It is separated by a metal plate 3÷4 mm thick. Its rear edge should end exactly at the level of the front wall of the riser, and the front edge should extend forward of the blower by 25÷30 mm. The plate is pinched in four places by welding inside the pipe.

Then, at the end of the flame tube, a hole is cut out from above, into which the riser is welded at a right angle, and the end of this channel is closed with a metal square, also secured by welding.

Must be installed on the blower door - latch, which will help regulate the air supply. The combustion chamber lid is made of galvanized metal. The bunker does not require a hermetically sealed closure - the main thing is that the lid fits tightly to the inlet.

After this, the finished structure is coated with a 5B solution. A continuous lining is made only at the bottom, and the sides and top of the blower are left free of lining. To make the coating mixture dry faster, the structure is placed on the pole with a blower chamber. It is necessary to ensure that the mixture does not slide off the surfaces or disgrace, since the lining plays a big role in retaining heat. If this happens, then the coating must be done again, using thicker clay.

Insulation for rocket stove

After the adobe layer has dried, formwork is installed to provide heat-resistant thermal insulation for the furnace. It is done only under the location of the stove. The height of the formwork together with the adobe layer will be 100÷110 mm.

The installed formwork is filled with composition 5b and leveled along the beacons, which will serve as the sides of the formwork. In the main diagram this layer is designated by the letter B.

Manufacturing of the drum bottom and shell

The shell is made of a round pipe with a diameter of 150÷200 mm or it is rolled up from a steel sheet.

The bottom round timber, which will be placed inside the drum, is cut from sheet metal 1.5÷2 mm thick, and a round hole is cut in the middle of it. The diameter of the circle of this element should be 4 mm less than the internal size of the cylinder, and the diameter of the middle cutout for the shell should be 3 mm larger than its outer diameter.

Installation of the combustion structure

After the thermal insulation layer has dried in the formwork, the combustion structure is mounted on it. It is installed by controlling the level vertically and horizontally, and then fixed to the heat-insulating layer using pegs. Then, formwork with a height of 350÷370 mm from the floor is installed around the furnace. Here you need to take into account that the cleaning chamber (3a) and its door (3b) must be installed next to the frozen mixture (5b) with which the formwork will be filled. The connection (2e) of the cleaning chamber with the heat exchange channel (2d) will pass over the lining composition poured into the formwork. The mixture is also leveled to perfection, level with formwork, using rules.

Cleaning chamber

While the mixture dries in the formwork, you can start making a cleaning chamber with a door and a transition to the heat exchanger. It is made of galvanized steel, 1.5÷2 mm thick, and its front part is made of metal 4÷6 mm thick. A hole with a diameter of 150÷180 mm is cut in the side of the cleaning chamber to install the end of the chimney pipe, which will pass under the bed.

The cleaning chamber door is made with dimensions of 160×160 mm, also from steel 4÷6 mm. Before installing it, a sealing gasket made of mineral cardboard is installed around the perimeter of the inner surface. The door itself is screwed to the camera box with fastening bolts, for which threads are cut in the drilled holes.

This diagram shows the dimensions of all elements and the location of installation and connection of the chamber with the drum (cylinder). Next, after trying on the elements, a window 70 mm in size is cut out in the lower part of the furnace drum, into which the connecting channel (2e) will be installed by welding.

The corrugated pipes under the bed can be located arbitrarily, depending on the configuration of the bed; it is only important to adhere to the dimensions indicated on the drawing for the manufacture of the cleaning chamber, indicated under the letters A, B and C. How to correctly attach the “hog” pipe will be discussed below.

Drum installation

When the solution in the formwork dries, it is removed. A combustion system drum made from a gas cylinder is placed on the riser, on top of the hardened thermal insulation. The drum is currently installed without a cover - its installation is shown in the diagram presented.

Solution 5b is laid out on the bottom of the installed drum, and with the help of a spatula, an inclined surface of 6-8 degrees is formed from it, towards the exit window of the cleaning chamber. Then, a round piece of metal sheet is put on the riser and lowered to the bottom of the drum and pressed against the laid mortar. The solution is removed from the middle hole around the riser, otherwise it will be impossible to install the shell pipe. After this, the pipe itself is put on the riser into the freed space and lightly screwed into the solution. All gaps formed along the external and internal contours are coated with clay (5d).

Lining the fuel structure from the inside

After installing the shell and hearth, there is no need to wait for the thermal insulation solution to dry; you can immediately proceed to lining the riser. The composition (5 g) is poured into the shell, around the riser, in 6–7 layers. Each layer must be compacted as much as possible, while wetting the dry mixture with water from a spray bottle. From above, this space filled with sand is covered with a clay layer (cork) 50÷60 mm thick, using a 5d solution.

Installation of the cleaning chamber

After installing the drum, you need to install a cleaning chamber. Installing the box is not difficult - to do this, a layer of 5d solution, which has a thickness of 3÷4 mm, is applied to the transition channel and the hole in the drum, as well as to the side and bottom of the box. The box is installed in place, and the window of the transition channel (2e) is inserted into the prepared hole of the drum and pressed well and pressed down. The solution that appears on the sides is immediately smeared. The entrance of the cleaning chamber to the drum must be well sealed, therefore, if there are gaps left, they must be sealed well.

Laying the thermal insulation layer

Formwork for level D

Next, formwork is installed along the outer contour of the bed, just as in the manufacture of level A. The height of this level D must be determined, focusing on the hole for connecting the “hog”. Above the upper edge of the hole, the level should be raised by approximately 80÷100 mm.

Filling the formwork

The next step is to fill the formwork with adobe solution (5a) to the lower edge of the hole prepared for installing a “hog” in the cleaning chamber On the one side, and at the end of the bench - to the lower edge of the outlet for the chimney.

The mixture is laid out and leveled manually, while ensuring that the mixture adheres as closely as possible to the previous layer. Thus, from the cleaning chamber to the chimney outlet a rise is formed for “hog” pipes, the height difference of which should be 15÷30 mm. This design is necessary to ensure that the bed warms up evenly.

You might be interested in information on how to choose

Corrugated pipe installation

The next step is to stretch the corrugated pipe over the entire length of the bed. One end of it is connected to the cleaning chamber, inserted into the hole to a depth of 20÷25 mm and flaring inside the chamber with a flathead screwdriver through the cleaning door. Then the entrance of the pipe to the ash pan is coated with 5d solution, and the beginning of the pipe 150÷200 mm is coated with adobe. This will secure the pipe well in the desired position and prevent it from slipping out of the hole during further work.

After this, the pipe in the formwork is laid in the form of a coil, but it should always be at a distance of about 100 mm from the edges of the formwork and the wall. During the installation process, the pipe is pressed into the adobe layer laid underneath. Having laid the pipe along its entire length, its second end is fixed with clay mortar into the chimney outlet.

After this, the entire “hog” is covered with adobe mortar, which must be compacted well, especially between the bends of the pipe, so that no voids form in it. After the space is filled with adobe mass flush with the top of the corrugated pipe, a more liquid adobe solution is poured into the formwork, and at the end the surface is smoothed using a rule that is carried out along the walls of the formwork, which act as beacons.

You might be interested in information about what wood burning is like

Installing covers

After this, the covers of the cleaning chamber and drum are secured with bolts. They need to be tightened tightly so that they press the gaskets installed inside.

Furnace drum coating

Next, the furnace drum is coated with adobe ⅔, from the bottom of the body. The upper part of the drum is left free from the adobe layer. Thermal insulation is applied with a thickness of at least 100÷120 mm, and the coating configuration is chosen by the master himself.

Furnace finishing

After two or two and a half weeks, the adobe layer should dry out and the installed formwork can be removed. Then, if necessary, the right corners of the structure are rounded. In addition, the drum is covered with heat-resistant enamel that can withstand temperatures up to 450÷750 degrees. The adobe surface of the bed is covered acrylic varnish in two layers, each of which should dry well. The varnish will hold the surface material together, preventing it from collecting dust, protect the adobe from moisture and give the aesthetics of glazed clay.

If desired, a wooden flooring made of thin boards can be laid on the surface of the bed - it is often made removable. The side parts of the bed are sometimes finished with plasterboard or covered with stone. Decorative finishing is carried out to the taste of the home owner.

You may be interested in information about how to build

Carrying out a furnace test

A dry oven must be tested. To do this, you should warm up the structure by placing light fuel in the form of paper in the ash pan and replenishing it during the combustion process. When you feel warmth on the surface of the stove, you can add the main fuel to the combustion chamber. When the stove begins to hum, the vent closes until the sound changes to a “whisper.”

In conclusion, it must be said that the rocket stove can also be made of brick or stone - it all depends on the financial capabilities and creative abilities of the master. The main thing that can attract you in this design is the opportunity to improvise and create, using different materials for construction and decoration. Therefore, those who dream of installing a stove with a heated bench in their home should take a closer look at this option.

Prices ready-made options rocket stoves

oven rocket

Video: example of building a rocket stove with a warm bed

Evgeniy AfanasyevChief Editor

5 Rating 5.00

- 5.0 out of 5 based on 12 votes

What kind of miracle is this: a rocket stove? A rocket stove, a rocket stove, and even a jet stove, whatever it is called, however, has nothing to do with rockets and jet engines. It received this name, obviously, because of the characteristic “rocket” sound that occurs when the mode fails and there is excessive air flow through the vent into the firebox. In any case, the developers called it exactly that: rocket stove, which can be translated as a rocket stove.

Rocket stove principle

The design was first developed in America and was originally intended for use in field conditions. The main idea is to obtain a furnace with high efficiency with maximum simplicity of the device. For this, two simple and essentially well-known techniques were used. The first is a more complete decomposition of gases with their afterburning due to a relatively long retention in a heated state. The second is the maximum extraction of heat from burnt gases.

1. Lighting up the stove begins with preheating it. To do this, it is best to use any flammable materials: wood chips, shavings or paper. It is recommended to burn the heating pad in an ash pit.
2. At the same time, the main stack of firewood is set on fire. The vent is completely open.
3. As ignition occurs, the draft increases and a lot of air begins to flow into the firebox. A characteristic roar appears.
4. Here you should close the blower damper until a smooth, quiet sound appears. If the rocket roar appears again, the adjustment should be repeated.

The firebox has good thermal insulation, so it heats up quickly and firewood pyrolysis begins - the decomposition of solid firewood into gas under the influence of high temperature. Some of the pyrolysis gases decompose into wood gases and burn. However, some part does not decompose enough to burn. In conventional stoves, these semi-decomposed pyrolysis products fly out into the chimney in the form of smoke and partially settle in the form of soot. Thus, any smoke is unburnt wood, which not only increases heating costs, but also clogs the chimney.

From this we can conclude that the main task of a furnace used for heating is to burn fuel as completely as possible, solving two, albeit secondary, but no less important, tasks. Firstly, take as much heat as possible from the burnt wood gas and, secondly, having accumulated it, distribute it in the heated room for as long as possible.

The main advantage of the rocket stove is that it perfectly solves all these problems.

After igniting the main stack of firewood, the firebox warms up almost simultaneously with the horizontal and vertical channels - the so-called Burn Tunnel. For this purpose, the combustion tunnel, or as it is also called, the flame tube, just like the firebox, is insulated with a material that has not only thermal insulation properties, but also low heat capacity. The temperature in the flame tube rises to 900°C and under normal conditions in the upper part can reach 1000°C.

Under such conditions, gases enter the upper part of the bell and heat its upper part to 400°C. Further, falling down and cooling to 250°C, the gases heat the cap and its coating, which acts as a heat accumulator. In this case, the coating is made of adobe: a mixture of clay and straw - an inexpensive and accessible material.

After pre-cooling in the upper zone of the hood, the gas enters the secondary ash pan. Here the afterburning of wood gases ends and the precipitation of pyrolysis residues, which for some reason were not sufficiently decomposed for combustion, ends. Next, the gas moves relatively slowly in the horizontal smoke channel, where it gives off its last remnants of heat, heating the coating of the stove bench, which is also made of adobe.

Main advantages and disadvantages of rocket stoves

Advantages:

1. High performance, saving up to 90% wood compared to a conventional metal stove, according to their owners. Such savings are achieved due to the afterburning of pyrolysis gases and soot.
2. Non-critical to fuel. Any wood firewood, wood chips, bark, or lumber waste will do. Their humidity doesn't matter either.
3. Simplicity and versatility of design. Anyone can assemble such a stove using clay, brick, stone or tile.
4. There is no need to add firewood too often. As the wood burns, it moves downwards and enters the combustion chamber.
5. Comfortable bed. Different stoves have sunbeds, but for example, in a Russian stove, it is located high.

Flaws:

1. the need to control combustion and constant manual adjustment of the air supply.
2. the presence of a hot part that can cause burns. Although on the other hand it can be used for cooking. The temperature of the bell is about 400°C.

DIY rocket stove. Blueprints

The rocket stove has a thermally insulated shaped combustion chamber, which causes the fire to move first horizontally and then into the chamber at a 90-degree angle, which causes severe turbulence. Once in the upper part of the bell chamber, hot gases heated to a temperature of 1000 ° C give off most of the heat and go down, where they enter the auxiliary ash pan, and there, at a temperature of about 250 ° C, their final pyrolysis occurs along with the afterburning of pyrolysis (wood ) gases. Then, in a horizontal channel, the combustion products give off the rest of their heat and enter the chimney.

Despite the simplicity and accessibility of the design, for the normal operation of the furnace in the planned mode, when installing it, it is necessary to observe the dimensions and take into account all recommendations.

Engineers and researchers have worked out the best ratio of dimensions to ensure that all processes run optimally. Here are their recommendations:

1. The height of the cap H should be from 1.5 to 2D.
2. The clay coating of the cap must have the following characteristics: height = 2/3H, thickness = 1/3D.
3. The cross-sectional area of ​​the horizontal and vertical parts of the flame tube is 5-6% of the cross-sectional area of ​​the cap (S).
4. The gap between the top edge of the flame tube and the hood cover is at least 7 cm.
5. The lengths of the horizontal and vertical sections of the flame tube must be equal. Their cross-sectional areas are also the same.
6. The blower must have a cross-sectional area of ​​50% of the area of ​​the flame tube.
7. The volume of the ash pan is recommended to be at least 5% of the volume of the hood.
8. The thickness of the adobe insulation pad, which is made under the external chimney, is chosen in the range from 50 to 70 mm.
9. The thickness of the bed is recommended 0.25D at D = 600 mm and 0.5D at D = 300 mm.
10. The height of the external chimney is at least 4 meters, the cross-sectional area is 9 -12% of the area of ​​the hood.
11. The length of the smoke channel in the stove bench is also calculated from the diameter of the hood. With a diameter of 60 cm (standard 200 liter barrel) - the length of the bed can be up to 6 meters. If the cap has a diameter of 30 cm (the diameter of the gas cylinder), then the length of the couch is no more than 4 meters.
12. It is recommended to make the fire channel from a rectangular pipe, with an aspect ratio of 1:2, laying it flat. This will ensure more stable operation of the entire oven.