First on the list garden favorites you can safely put bearded irises, their main distinguishing feature is a fluffy strip located along the central vein of the outer and sometimes inner flower petals.
Intensive breeding work with bearded irises began at the beginning of the 19th century in Europe. garden varieties bearded irises obtained by crossing eight types of iris: German iris (Iris germanica), motley (Iris variegata), pale (Iris pallida), leafless, Cypriot, Mesopotamian, Kashmir, Trojan. Therefore, bearded irises are still often called Germanic irises in commercial labeling. This outdated name has now been replaced by another, which very accurately reflects the essence - hybrid iris (Iris hybrida hort.), After all, all varieties of bearded irises are hybrids obtained as a result of multiple crosses (artificial pollination). This is truly a flower self made”, a masterpiece created by man in union with nature.
In addition to the border, patterns of strokes of different colors, complex combinations of different colors that turn into each other, many modern varieties have a specific texture of the petals. It creates special visual effects, giving pastels an alabaster haze or waxy translucency, and dark ones a velvety depth. Irises, like daylilies, have varieties with a "diamond coating" that sparkle in the sun or shimmer in the summer twilight.
In bearded irises, a thick perennial rhizome is located horizontally flush with the soil, long cord-like roots extend from it, forming a fibrous root system. The xiphoid leaves, covered with a bluish wax coating, are folded like a fan. An iris flower has three perianth lobes: those that look up are called "standards", those that look down are called "fouls".
At vintage varieties iris fouls are narrow, similar to the protruding tongue of a dog. Modern cultivars have wide, rounded falls, domed or crowned standards, and various shapes corrugation. A distinctive feature of irises of recent decades are wide fluffy beards, which in a group of varieties turn into colored "horns", "spoons" or "frills".
The color of the flowers has also reached an amazing variety. But, despite the deliberate efforts of hybridizers, until the iris is uniquely red, numerous attempts to get it led to the creation a large number red-burgundy varieties. Therefore, it is not an exaggeration to say that the modern range of irises covers the entire range of colors, including black.
According to the American Iris Society, the leader and legislator of modern bearded iris breeding, there are over 80,000 varieties today. In the AIS classification, irises are divided into six garden groups, which differ in the height of the peduncle, flower size and flowering time. To choose the right plants for your garden, you should get to know them better.
(table)
To describe the color features of bearded irises, a number of terms have been adopted:
plikata - on a light background, a pattern of dark dots and strokes, merging along the edge into a border;
luminata - patterned highlights on a dark background, standards are lighter;
blend (iridescent) - two or more colors smoothly transition into each other;
amena - white or lighter standards in a two-color flower, modern varieties have "reverse amena" when the standards are darker than the lower falls;
splash ("torn color") - against the background of the main color, numerous strokes and strokes of other colors.
GARDEN USE
Originators - this is the name of the creators of new varieties - in the process of working with the plant endow the flower with new properties. This is a special kind of creativity, aimed at finding a new visual image: in color, proportions and form. Therefore, figuratively speaking, all garden irises are works of art.
The most hardy and winter-hardy
The lower the iris, the faster it blooms, and therefore you will be the first to be greeted dwarf irises. Yes, they are not so small, 40 cm is an excellent growth for flowering in the first decade of May. "Dwarfs" (SDB) are higher than ground cover, small bulbs and perennials that are just getting out of the ground, but on a par with or slightly lower than daffodils and tulips. They hibernate without shelter, they are undemanding to the soil, they do not need watering, the heat of our summer is enough for them to multiply and bloom profusely. That is why, despite their low growth, dwarf irises have become one of the most fashionable and in demand for cultivation in temperate climates.
Low flowers in single and group planting look organic among the stones and ground cover plants on alpine slide bringing color accents to the composition. The fantastic variety of colors of "dwarfs" allows you to create amazing combinations both on the basis of contrast and within the same colors. Plant dwarf irises along with tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, miniature primroses, and the eternal problem - the bare ground under the bulbs - will be forgotten forever.
Abundant and early flowering, unpretentiousness and fertility put dwarf irises out of competition when creating extended borders and flowering arrays of a large area, on lawns, in trunk circles trees, on sunny slopes. In the May garden, barely covered with the first greenery, a bright carpet of blooming irises will attract everyone's attention, and at the end of flowering it will become almost invisible. Iris leaves, pointed with a bluish bloom, retain their decorative effect throughout the season, but they are small in height, so they do not block other plants, being content with the role of a tactful background. It is possible to divide and transplant dwarf irises even during flowering; after a warm summer, they often bloom again in August - September. "Dwarfs" can be grown in container culture, on balconies and loggias, they feel good in pots and are easy to force out in the cold season.
The most friendly
In early June, the flowering relay passes to medium-sized bearded irises up to 70 cm high, this group consists of Intermedia (IB), Table (MTB) and Border (BB) irises. The flowers of the irises of this group can be very large and numerous, but due to the lower height of the peduncles, they are resistant to the wind. Table irises, as their name suggests, will decorate not only the garden, but also the house. Their graceful flowers on strong peduncles are ideal for making bouquets. A cut flower opens all the buds, which allows it to retain its decorative effect in a vase for a long time. Moreover, such a bouquet can bloom for you by the New Year or March 8 - medium-sized irises lend themselves perfectly to distillation and are able to fully bloom indoors in winter.
The flowering of the newest varieties of foreign selection is simply amazing by the size, shape of the flowers, and the amazing play of shades. However, being plants of southern origin, they may require additional attention during the period of adaptation to new climatic conditions. This is especially true for peach-pink colors, they are most vulnerable to frost.
In early June, in the off-season, when the primroses have already departed, and the annuals and perennials are still preparing to bloom, it is the medium-sized irises that will add the missing colors to the garden palette. Medium-sized irises winter stably, grow rapidly, forming lush bushes with many peduncles.
This is the most versatile class of irises, excellent both in a single planting and in all forms of a group.
In addition to creating borders and large arrays, medium-sized irises are best suited for planting on slopes, their powerful root system will hold the soil layer and prevent terrain deformation.
"High genre"
Tall Irises (TV)- born soloists. By growing such a meter-long handsome man near a house or a path, you will give yourself the incomparable pleasure of watching the birth of a flower, changing its outlines and shades as it grows. An iris bush can produce 10-15 peduncles, each of which can open up to 25 flowers at the same time. Of particular interest is the collection of irises for connoisseurs of aromas, because the variety of smells in different varieties bearded irises are no less than the range of colors and shapes.
Jasmine, peonies, foxglove, daylily, geyhera and onions blooming at the same time will serve as an excellent backdrop for irises. The outstanding decorative qualities of many modern varieties with massive peduncles, large corrugated flowers will be emphasized by the discreet "accompaniment" of decorative leaf crops (chistetsa, sage, hosts, bergenia, wormwood, cuffs, stonecrops and young).
In all classes of bearded irises, there are varieties capable of re-blooming, this property is called remontant and is indicated by the abbreviation (RE). But in the middle lane, this is more of a disadvantage than an advantage. In our climate, re-blooming in autumn is very irregular and occurs in dwarf and medium-sized irises after a very warm summer. All remontant varieties continue to grow actively in autumn, not having time to enter a state of dormancy before the onset of frost, which is necessary for a successful wintering. Therefore, re-blooming irises are the least cold-resistant and difficult to grow group of varieties.
In a group planting, varieties of pastel colors or just similar in color look harmonious. Be especially attentive to two-color irises, they rarely “go” to plant in a single array. In the field of contrasting combinations, a non-linear arrangement of curtains of a sufficiently large area opens up a lot of opportunities; it is desirable to arrange groups from an odd number of varieties.
The June bloom of tall bearded irises is truly magnificent! Their advantages are obvious, and the variety of varieties will satisfy the most demanding connoisseur. The choice depends entirely on your tastes and the location of the garden. I will only note that high (TV) is the most demanding class of irises in terms of growing conditions.
The most unpretentious and resistant to cold, pests and diseases are the irises of the old classic varieties, bred in the 19th and early 20th centuries. However, with all their endurance, they are significantly inferior to modern varieties in terms of decorative qualities. Beginning flower growers should pay attention first of all to the varieties of domestic selection, one of the main priorities of which was the breeding of varieties that are most resistant to cold and disease.
SELECTION OF PLANTING MATERIAL
The planting unit of the bearded iris, the so-called "delepka", is a segment of a thick rhizome with roots extending from it and a fan of leaves, which are shortened to a length of 10-15 cm. High-quality delenki have clearly visible buds on the sides. You can plant irises from May to September, so planting material goes into mass sale in early spring. Wherever you buy irises, be sure to take the delenka in your hands and carefully inspect the plant. Yellowing of a pair of outer leaves is quite acceptable, but if softened areas of the rhizome, mold or spots are found, you should refrain from purchasing.
Bearded irises are very sensitive to excess moisture. Humidity, especially when combined with heat for planting material destructive. Mature rhizomes are not afraid of drying and can be stored in a dry and cool place for up to 2 months. This feature contributed to the widespread culture of bearded irises, because delenki perfectly tolerates mailing. Therefore, the most rational way to purchase planting material that is healthy and appropriate for the variety is to contact collectors.
The largest association of iris lovers, as well as breeders and competent producers of planting material is the Russian Iris Society. Within the framework of this non-profit association of flower growers, exhibitions, training seminars, official registration of new varieties are held, and the purchase of planting material of Russian and foreign selection is coordinated. Anyone can become a member of the ROI, the association maintains an official website (http//rusiris.narod.ru) and annually publishes the bulletin "Irises of Russia" with an overview of the most significant events in the modern world of irises, articles on agricultural technology and selection of these plants. Company address: 129110 Moscow, st. Gilyarovsky, 36-23.
What is important to take into account when purchasing planting material from private collections?
The level of collection management is largely evidenced by the catalog - a list of proposed varieties with a description that informs you as much as possible about the properties of the variety. Be sure to indicate the class of the variety according to the height of the peduncle. The name is followed by the name of the breeder, the year of registration of the variety, a description of the color, features and awards received.
The times when you could basically dream of new selections are over. Now we recklessly flip through catalogs, jumping from site to site in search of interesting varieties. But the greater the choice, the more difficult it is to make it. To lay and maintain a solid foundation for an iris garden will allow one "golden" rule - first of all, choose award-winning varieties.
Collectors who value their reputation and circle of customers offer a system of discounts, bonuses, guarantees and order approvals, following the world practice of offering planting material. Including its unwritten law: the older the variety, the lower its price. The high cost of the latest varieties is explained not only by their outstanding decorative qualities, but also by the number of plants themselves. At the irises new variety it reproduces only vegetatively, that is, by dividing one "original" plant obtained from a seed, therefore, by the time the variety is officially registered, the number of plants - its carriers is small, and it is customary to set the highest price for the right to own them. For reference: the price of varieties of the current year among the luminaries of the American selection ranges from 30 to 50 dollars.
GROWING IRIS
Selecting a landing site
In order for the flowering to be regular and plentiful, the site for planting bearded irises should be as warm, light as possible, and when planting tall irises, be sure to be protected from the wind. Bearded irises do not tolerate excessive moisture, so flooded lowlands are not for them; in areas with high groundwater, planting is possible on raised ridges.
Soil preparation
The best soil for irises is light loam. Clay soils can be improved by adding sand and peat, acidic soils can be neutralized with dolomite flour, clay and well-rotted compost can be added to sandy soils. The soil under the irises should pass water and air well. In the fight for porosity, all means are good - coarse sand, crushed brick, fine limestone, and charcoal will do.
Excess nitrogen reduces winter hardiness and increases the risk of bacterial infections, so organic additives (completely rotted compost or manure humus) can be applied in small quantities to the lower soil layer, to the depth of thin roots, avoiding contact with a thick rhizome.
To obtain large plants of exhibition quality (especially tall irises), they practice planting on two-layer raised ridges. The bottom layer of soil consists of compost with the addition of dolomite flour, long-acting mineral fertilizers or a phosphorus-potassium complex, upper layer ridges (10-15 cm) - sand.
planting
You can plant irises and replant with a clod of earth from May to September, the best time is July, since at this time the active growth new roots. Planting young delenok should begin with disinfection. To do this, it is enough to withstand them for 15-30 minutes. in a pink solution of potassium permanganate. If the weather is sunny, put the delenki in the sun for several days so that the rhizome is illuminated from all sides. Such a "tan" destroys pathogenic bacteria and contributes to better survival and the formation of flower buds.
The perennial rhizome should remain on the soil surface when planted. Make a hole with a scoop, fill the bottom with a mound of earth (and best of all a mixture of sand and wood ash). Keep the rhizome flush with the soil surface, spread the roots along the sides of the mound, as if planting a delenka astride the mound. Backfill the hole, pressing the soil tightly around the roots with your hands. Water generously to make sure the delenka does not fall. It is not necessary to water the plantings anymore, it is important that all planted plants maintain an upright position, and the rhizome is not buried. Planted delenki can be supported from the side of the leaves with sticks or stones, after 2-3 weeks, new growing roots will provide the plant correct contact with soil.
And the last step, optional, but very far-sighted, is the installation of a label with the name of the variety. A disposable plastic knife will serve as such a label. Write the name of the variety with an indelible marker and stick it next to the plant.
The taller the iris, the more space it needs. And the more often you plant irises, the sooner you will have to plant the plants. When planting irises in groups, it is desirable to place plants at a distance from each other: for tall irises 30-40 cm, for medium-sized ones - 15-20, for dwarf ones - 10-15 cm. In the process of growth, bearded irises move, the rhizome moves forward along the soil surface, therefore, during curb planting, all divisions should look in one direction, it is better to orient the cut on the rhizome to the southeastern sector, so the rhizome will be better illuminated and warmed up. When nesting, delenki are placed with slices towards the center.
CARE OF BEARDED IRIS
In the spring, after the snow melts, it may seem that the irises have died, but do not rush to conclusions. If the rhizome is hard, after 1-2 weeks the iris will turn lush green. Treat the iris and the surrounding soil with ash or one of the fungicides. wood ash for irises, it is both a hygiene product and a fertilizer; it is applied several times a season.
Most often, the upper part of the rhizome with a flower bud freezes out. Cut the damaged area to a solid healthy tissue as soon as possible. Iris renewal buds are laid on the sides of the rhizomes, so even a radically “operated” iris has a chance of survival. Fresh cuts on the rhizome should always be disinfected. Here are the remedies from the vast experience of practitioners; a mixture of sulfur and charcoal, brilliant green, fukortsin, potassium permanganate, metronidazole powder. Try to provide the rhizomes with maximum illumination, solar ultraviolet - the best remedy fight against bacterial infections.
The need for bearded irises in moisture is covered by the amount of natural precipitation, they do not need regular watering, watering is desirable in dry summers for tall irises during the flowering period. In the non-chernozem zone, the development and winter hardiness of plants can be stimulated by fertilizing. In spring, nitrogen-phosphorus (3:1), during budding - nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (1:1:1), 2-3 weeks after flowering - phosphorus-potassium (1:1). Fertilizers are applied to moist soil, preventing granules from getting on the rhizome.
Disease prevention and protection
The main care for irises comes down to disease prevention. The emergence of rot caused by various types of bacteria is facilitated by dampness, excess organic matter, thickened plantings and long-term cultivation in one place. When a disease is detected, there is only one way to fight: the affected part of the plant is cut out, the rest is treated with fungicidal agents (see above).
An effective measure for the prevention and control of rots of various origins is the introduction of preparations of live bacteria into the soil under irises (Trichodermin, Gliocladin), which suppress the development of pathogenic microorganisms. Spring sowing in areas intended for summer planting of irises, annual green manure crops ( white mustard, phacelia) with their subsequent embedding to a depth of about 20 cm will improve the soil and provide the irises with optimal nutrition.
In the second half of summer, brown spots and yellowing ends can be seen on the foliage of irises. Spotting caused by various pathogens does not directly threaten the life of the plant, but spoil the appearance and can affect winter hardiness. To keep the foliage healthy will help: regular preventive spraying of foliage with fungicides (foundazol, "Maxim",
0.2% copper oxychloride), spacious planting, pre-winter leaf pruning (and even subsequent whitewashing with lime).
Wintering
Irises of domestic selection and time-tested foreign varieties, which have been grown for a long time in Russia, are distinguished by the greatest winter hardiness. middle lane. For most irises, 30 cm of snow is sufficient frost protection. The most vulnerable are the novelties of the world selection of tall irises. The potential of their winter hardiness and methods of shelter have to be established empirically.
Most of the dwarf and medium-sized irises in the garden near Moscow can winter without shelter. In high irises in November, before the cold weather, the rhizomes are covered with earth by 8-10 cm, and when the soil is seized with frost, they are covered with spruce branches or any breathable material on top.
The most reliable way to shelter bearded irises is "dry wintering".
In rainy autumn, a low hard canopy is installed above the irises so that the soil remains dry and the shelter is blown through. With the onset of the first frost, the foliage is cut off at a height of 10 cm, the plants are sprayed with a fungicide and covered with lutrasil over the canopy.
A small number of plants can be covered with mesh plastic boxes and lutrasil or caps from plastic containers with holes at the bottom. Any method that allows you to keep the air circulation under the shelter is good.
Irises, especially large-flowered varieties, with a powerful rhizome (they need a lot of space and nutrients), after a couple of years they grow and begin to interfere with each other. As a result, they bloom worse and worse. To avoid this problem, plants need to be divided every 4-6 years. For this, the period from the end of July to September is suitable. Remove the plant from the ground with a pitchfork, shake off the ground from the rhizome, cut the leaves. Then cut the rhizomes, separating the plants from each other. Select the strongest specimens with leaves. Plant them in a circle at a distance of 40 cm from each other, so that the cut plane of the rhizome looks inside this circle. You can add compost to the soil first. The rhizomes are only lightly sprinkled with soil, so that they are not visible. Water the plants generously. No further action is required in the coming weeks.
bearded iris is a very special plant. It was bred by crossing various kinds irises since antiquity. Thus, it is one of the most ancient garden crops in the history of mankind. Bearded iris grew in the gardens of the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans.
Iris was named after Irida, the goddess of the rainbow - after all, the flowers of this plant of different varieties are painted in the colors of the rainbow. Bearded irises (Iris x barbata) of modern varieties represent the whole variety of color shades: from snow-white to black-violet.
Varieties are divided into groups that differ in the height of the peduncles. Undersized bearded irises (Iris x barbata-nana), 20-40 cm high, bloom earlier than others, in spring. Medium-sized bearded irises (Irisxbarbata-media) include plants with a height of 50 to 70 cm. They bloom two weeks later than undersized ones. The most spectacular are high bearded irises (Iris x barbata-elatior) 0.5-1 m high, their large flowers bloom in summer.
The variety of shapes and colors contributes to the popularity of bearded iris. In addition, it fits very harmoniously into various garden styles. So, in combination with decorative bows, lupins and delphinium, irises create a romantic mood in the garden. The same effect is produced by a trio of iris, peonies and geraniums. The spirit of the Mediterranean emanates from the flower garden with catnip, santolina, milkweed and lavender. Bearded iris is also suitable for gardens in modern style, which usually grow a limited number of plants that stand out with something special. In such a garden, for example, a group of irises with their pointed xiphoid leaves and large picturesque flowers could be a bright accent against the background of graceful silhouettes. ornamental grasses. Tip: if you're going. to grow bearded irises of multi-colored varieties, choose monochromatic partners in the flower garden for them, otherwise the whole composition will turn out to be too colorful. For the bearded iris, you need to choose partners and taking into account that their roots do not drown out the rhizomes of the soloist plant, which are tightly adjacent to each other and are shallow in the soil. It is also necessary to process it and weed it very carefully so as not to damage the rhizomes of irises.
Iris is unpretentious if the place for its growth is chosen correctly. He prefers sunny places, that is, the flower garden should be well lit by the sun for at least three-quarters of the day. If you plant a bearded iris in the shade, then it will not bloom. The soil should be well-drained and limed. When waterlogged, the fleshy rhizomes of bearded iris can rot.
On a note:
In nature, there are many shades of iris: from white to black. Divide the irises into two large groups: tuberous and bulbous. For planting, choose a sunny place: they tolerate flowers and light partial shade. Neutral soils are suitable. On wet soils they get sick, but on acidic soils they do not bloom. Planted plants in September-October, so that they only have time to take root. The flowering period of irises is short - from May to June. Flowers live only one to five days, but the leaves are decorative throughout the life of the plant. Three times a season, irises are fed with mineral fertilizers.
Planting irises
It is best to plant bearded irises in August. Important: the plants should have time to settle down in a new place before winter. If you don't have time until autumn, you can try planting irises in the spring. To do this, simply loosen the soil, deepen the rhizomes a little into it and lightly sprinkle them with soil.
The distance between plants depends on whether you have chosen a tall or short variety, and ranges from 40 to 80 cm. Bearded iris loves fertile soil, but it is better not to feed it with nitrogen fertilizers. Choose phosphate and potash fertilizers and apply them before flowering begins. An increased nitrogen content can cause rotting of the rhizomes. If this happens, the rotten parts are cut off, and the wounds are treated with crushed charcoal.
Bearded irises in bloom special care do not require. Just enjoy their beauty. Plants should only be watered in very dry weather. In faded irises, the stems are cut at a level of 10 cm from the soil surface. So-called remontant varieties, such as Lovley Again, bloom again in late summer or even autumn, thereby reducing the waiting time for the next mass flowering of these magnificent flowers.
Note: Sharing
When transplanting and dividing bearded iris and for the prevention of bacterial rot, it is useful to leave dug out rhizomes for a couple of hours in the sun.
When planting, the leaves are cut to two-thirds of the original length.
Irises are distinguished by excellent vitality, get along well with many plants, multiply quickly and delight us with bizarre flowering in mid-May.
But even such unpretentious flowers as irises have their own characteristics in growing.
Features of care and planting irises
Abundant flowering of irises largely depends on the location. Plants thrive in full sun open places, in partial shade and even in shady areas of the garden, but you will not wait for flowering in the shade, therefore, in order to please yourself with the beauty of flowering irises, it is necessary to provide the plants with good lighting.
Another rule to remember when planting irises is that the flowers do not tolerate wetlands. The earth should dry out well. High humidity leads to rotting of the roots and buds of iris.
Therefore, choose well-drained places, hills, open space. At high humidity there is a risk of developing bacterial or fungal rot and the appearance of pests such as iris flower girl and slugs.
The Iris Flower Girl does a lot of damage to bearded iris blooms. During the summer (the beginning of the flowering of the chestnut), the female lays eggs in the buds, from which the larvae ripen in a couple of weeks. They feed on juice, hence the buds become soft, watery and do not give a full-fledged flower.
On closer inspection, you can see small punctures in the petals.
And when pressed with fingers, liquid flows out of the bud.
All damaged buds must be plucked and destroyed. During the period of the appearance of arrows for prevention, I dust with ash, tobacco dust, pepper, mustard or lime, spray soapy water with the addition of alcohol or ammonia, I make infusions from celandine, tansy, burdock, aloe, wormwood. All bitter herbs will do. The main thing is to actively carry out all kinds of activities during budding to scare the pest away from the plant. In the literature, various systemic insecticides are recommended for the cultivation of irises and their protection: aktar, confidor, mosplan, but on my site I do not use pesticides, I prefer only natural remedies. The same measures repel cutworms, aphids and slugs that feed on the leaves and flowers of the plant.
It is also enough to plant irises in a sunny place to get rid of slugs and rot, since good drying of the soil is a prevention from these troubles.
Irises are fairly drought tolerant. However, they need moderate watering, especially during the flowering period.
Soils prefer light, structural, sandy and loamy, although sometimes they put up with any. They respond well to the introduction of mature compost in early spring and autumn. Nitrogen fertilizers should be applied in small doses, since bearded irises do not have a highly developed leaf apparatus, but acidification of the soil from an excess of nitrogenous substances can also adversely affect the development of plants. It does not hurt to make a one-time complex mineral fertilizer during flowering, for example, flower kemira.
Growing irises
Irises are propagated by dividing the root or by sowing seeds. On pollinated flowers, seed pods appear, which can be plucked by the end of August and planted before winter.
It is better to collect the seeds of bearded irises when they are slightly unripe (the shell of the box becomes soft, light green in color), then the percentage of germination increases. Seedlings will bloom only in the 3rd year. Reproduction by seeds makes sense only in breeding work, since irises grown from seeds of natural pollination do not always have the same characteristics as the mother plant.
It is easier to propagate by division, which should be done two weeks after flowering and until September.
The overgrown rhizome of the iris can be divided without digging.
It is enough to separate a part of the root with shoots with a shovel and transplant it to the right place. This is, so to speak, a rough method of propagating a plant that does not require specific knowledge and skills.
Also, division can be done by digging out the entire rhizome from the ground. I prefer to dig, because, first of all, it makes it possible to introduce compost into the soil in this place. A plant dug out and cleared from the ground allows you to examine it in more detail, remove damaged areas, divide the rhizome into smaller processes, which increases the amount of planting material. We divide the large root of the bearded iris according to the “cut at the neck” principle, that is, it has round large sections of the “head”, which are interconnected by thin short jumpers “necks”. So you need to cut exactly on these thin sections.
It happens that two or three sprouts grow at once on one head.
They can be left, then the iris will grow in a bush.
If the root system is developed, then these processes can be divided by chopping off a piece of rhizome with roots for each division.
If long roots are not enough, then you should not divide your head. When dividing a bush of a bearded iris, we shorten the leaves in order to avoid unnecessary loss of moisture during the plant's survival.
Planted at a distance of at least 10 cm, forming small mounds for the roots in several rows.
Iris plantings are arranged differently. Can be planted in wide or narrow strips as an outer frame of a flower bed. An interesting solution will make a figure of irises or plant in separate sections in the form of color spots.
Bearded irises are ideal for crossborders and mixborders.
It is also possible to plant irises with a continuous flower carpet as a decoration near the trunks of trees or ornamental bushes. Diversify the planting of irises interspersed with bulbs, such as tulips, which bloom almost at the same time with early-flowering varieties. Irises look spectacular against the backdrop of blooming peonies.
Often plants are combined with daylilies and lilies, which immediately come into bloom after the irises have faded. The agrotechnics of these plants is the same, so they get along well with each other.
Growing bearded irises will give you a lot of pleasure with its simplicity and excellent results. Breeders have bred a wide variety of varieties that will become worthy decoration your garden.
Once you set up a garden plot, there are too few places in the garden with shade, and it is difficult for the plants to survive. But in open places, even with intense heat and without watering, bearded irises grow well. Next, a little about the cultivation of bearded irises, the features of their planting, and their use in garden design.
Description of bearded irises
Bearded irises (Iris barbata hybriden) have a thickened root and straight leaves arranged in a fan. When buying a division of plants, it is necessary to check for the presence of white-yellow swellings on the rhizome, from which thin roots will develop when planted. If you accidentally bought a delenka with signs of softening, diaper rash or rot, do not be discouraged. It is necessary to hold the roots in a raspberry solution of potassium permanganate, and dry in the sun for a couple of days.
Even specialists are hardly familiar with the huge range of bearded irises, catalogs are updated with new varieties every year. Groups of plants are conditionally divided by height:
- Elatior - high, above 70 cm;
- Media - medium, 40-70 cm;
- Nana - dwarf, 15-30 cm.
bearded iris - a variety of colors (photos are clickable)
When the bearded iris blooms
The flowering period of bearded irises depends on the variety. Dwarf flowers bloom much earlier - in the second half of April. Then comes the flowering of medium, and at the end of May they continue the baton of high. For high irises, it is better to choose a calm place, strong gusts of wind can rattle their flower stalks. In addition, in rainy times, their flower stalks also strongly lean towards the ground, gaining moisture in the buds.
Iris bearded (photo)
The color variety of irises is amazing, they have many pure and combined colors. There are two-color combinations and more complex ones. There are pronounced elegant contrasting edges, and there are also smooth transitions one color to another.
Growing bearded irises
Based on more than 25 years of experience in growing irises, we can say that they have no special requirements for the soil. They grow well in both sandy and loamy soils. The only requirement is that they do not like waterlogged soils, therefore, with close groundwater deposits, they need to make raised beds.
Planting and caring for bearded irises
High varieties, of course, require sufficient space. Our southern wall of the house is lined with irises along its entire length, the width for the flower garden was 80 cm. When planting, it is important to leave the thick part of the rhizome on the surface, not sprinkle it with earth. Otherwise, the iris will not bloom until the rhizome gets out of the ground.
Divide and transplant irises 1-2 weeks after flowering. You can extend this period until the end of August. When buying and transplanting, you should not rush into landing too much. It is even useful for plants to dry a little in the sun, they will be less sick from rot.
single planting of irises near the house
Irises in garden design
Most often, bearded irises are used in monoplants. They have a very large range of colors, and the bushes themselves are quite large, so the combination of plants is not particularly necessary. In such mono-plantings, sage, perovskaya, yarrow, wormwood and lavender can occasionally be interspersed.
But there is a need to create a sequence of flowering, then they make plantings in the form of a mixborder, where the flowering of plants is shifted in time. For example, bulbs can be planted along the fence in rows - crocuses, tulips and muscari. Then a wide strip of irises, and in the background - Septembers (New England asters). All crops must be drought tolerant.
For ease of care and variety of colors, the bearded iris has long been deservedly popular. Of course, you can’t collect a large collection in small gardens, they still need enough space. But for a couple of bushes, you can pick up the most open areas and enjoy their flowering. Cultivation of bearded irises proper fit rhizomes is easy even for beginners.
"Super Ego"
Photo EDSR.
Location: lighted, wind-sheltered areas. You can plant plants in semi-shady places, but varietal irises are photophilous.
The soil: light or medium in texture, quite fertile, cultivated to a depth of at least 20 cm and well drained, pH 6.5-7.5. On soils rich in organic matter, plants develop a powerful vegetative mass to the detriment of flowering. In addition, they do not have time to complete growth in the fall and suffer from fungal diseases. When preparing sandy and loamy soils per 1 m 2, it is recommended to add 8-10 kg of humus, 10 g of nitrogen and 15-20 g of phosphorus and potash fertilizers.
Care: in early spring, the soil is loosened to a depth of 5-8 cm and liquid phosphorus-potassium top dressing is applied (10-12 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m 2). Since the rhizomes are located close to the soil surface, it is better not to use dry dressings. The first nitrogen top dressing (10 g/m 2) is carried out after the start of intensive leaf regrowth, the second (10 g/m 2) by adding 10-15 g of phosphorus and 20 g of potash fertilizers per 1 m 2 - after 10-12 days. During the flowering period and immediately after it ends, the plants are fed with phosphorus (15-20 g / m 2) and potash (20-25 g / m 2) fertilizers.
On infertile soils, during the second wave of root system growth (second decade of August), along with phosphorus per 1 m 2 (25-30 g of superphosphate) and potash (15-18 g of potassium sulfate), nitrogen fertilizers (8-10 g of ammonium nitrate) are applied . The last top dressing with phosphorus (15-20 g) and potash (10-15 g) fertilizers is carried out in late September - early October. This top dressing promotes better formation and differentiation of generative buds, as well as deeper winter dormancy, due to which plants tolerate adverse wintering conditions better and suffer less from fungal and bacterial diseases.
After flowering, flowering shoots are removed. During the entire growing season, weeding and loosening of the soil is carried out. In autumn, the leaves are cut at a height of up to 10 cm. New varieties, especially of American selection, are mulched with peat, humus for the winter, covered with leaves and spruce branches. In one place can grow up to 5 years.
Vanity
Photo Bondareva Olga
Diseases and pests: irises can be affected by rust, heterosporiosis, gray mold, bulbous iris blight, wet rot, streaky mosaic virus, aphids, gladiolus thrips, slugs, onion hoverfly, root onion mites, strawberry, stem and gall nematodes.
Reproduction: vegetatively and by seeds.
The seed method is used in the propagation of species plants and for breeding purposes. Sowing seeds can be carried out in the fall after harvesting in loose nutrient soil to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. Friendly shoots appear in the spring. If the seeds are sown in the spring, then they need stratification. Seedlings dive to a distance of 5-10 cm. After 2 years they are planted on permanent place. Plants bloom in the 3-4th year.
The division is made on the 4-5th year of cultivation. Best time for transplantation - the first 3-4 weeks after the end of flowering, acceptable - the entire second half of summer. Well-developed rhizomes are dug up, the leaves are cut at a height of 10-15 cm from the base and the rhizome is cut into pieces 2-4 cm long, the sections are sprinkled with charcoal. Each division should have 2-3 links and 2-3 growth buds. Planting is carried out in grooves 3-5 cm deep. The feeding area depends on the height of the plants: 10x15, 30x30, 50x50 cm. If desired, iris varieties can be propagated by small pieces of rhizome with one bud, but this is a very risky way.
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