Iris (Iris, Petushki) - perennial from the genus rhizomatous. Irises can be found in almost every garden, garden and park. There are more than 700 species, which are characterized by a variety of shapes and colors.
For this reason, the people called this flower rainbow. It is said that since ancient times the iris was named after the goddess of the rainbow, Irida. Outwardly, iris flowers are very similar to orchids and have the same rich range of shades.
Varieties and types
Gained wide popularity due to the presence of shaggy hairs on the petals. This type of iris is different sizes(dwarf, tall, canteen and others).
An important point when growing is that you need to plant this type of iris on the sand. To do this, sand is poured into the bottom of the prepared hole (in a small layer) and then laid out, carefully distributing the rhizome. Landing should not be deep.
It grows up to 80 cm high, while having flowers up to 10 cm, various colors. The natural color of this species has many shades from blue to dark purple.
And as for some hybrid varieties, then they meet:
- white ( Snow Queen ),
- pink ( Imperial Opal ),
- yellow with white trim Battz & Suga ).
With all this diversity, there is a significant minus of this type - there is no aroma at all.
(another name xiphoid ) It has large flowers(about 25 cm in diameter), which are most similar to orchid flowers.
- one of large species(about one meter in height), drought- and frost-resistant. The flowers are lacy, have a bright yellow center and a white (dark purple, blue-violet and others) border.
A clear difference from other species is the fact that this iris grows only in moist soil. For this reason, most often it is used to decorate ponds.
- reaches only 15 cm in height, has wide leaves and yellow or purple flowers.
(xyphyllum ) - a hybrid variety, first bred in Holland. They grow to a height of no more than 50-60 cm. The flowers have different shades of petals: white, yellow, orange, blue and purple.
It is winter-hardy, but in severe winters it requires additional shelter. Often this type of iris is used for cutting, forming bouquets.
- Very interesting flower, which in Latin "spuria" means "false". It got its name for its resemblance to Dutch irises.
The main advantage is that the flowering period is longer (several weeks). The period of "life" of one flower is a week.
Iris planting and care in the open field
Irises are light-loving plants, so the key to long and colorful flowering is the location in a well-lit area.
During planting, it is worth considering the fact that irises are able to move. So in one year they can move a few centimeters away from their original location. Therefore, planting is not carried out in a standard way (in a row), but with a fan of leaves along a row. Planting conditions for each species are different.
So, for example, planting bearded irises is on that plot of land where there is good illumination in the first half of the day, it is better if it is a slope or hill (for the outflow of melt water) and the presence of drainage. As for marsh and Siberian irises, they are vice versa They like to keep the soil constantly moist.
But at the same time, all species love rich soil, therefore, if necessary, in the spring, before planting, compost is applied (do not use manure) and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. If the soil is acidic, you can add a little chalk or wood ash. And be sure, before planting, it is necessary to treat the area with herbicides and moisten with a fungicide (for disinfection).
Watering irises
It is worth watering the plant only after the soil around the bush has completely dried. If there is a possibility that groundwater passes close to the surface, then it is worth taking care of drainage in advance.
The first watering is carried out immediately after planting, and the next - not earlier than three days later.
Feeding irises in spring
For lush flowering And good growth irises, like all plants, need top dressing and fertilizers. However, manure should not be used, irises will start to hurt from it.
For top dressing, use complex mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. You need to scatter it around the bushes in the spring after the irises begin to grow. After that, the earth should be watered to accelerate the dissolution of the granules.
Also, do not forget that an excess of fertilizers is also very harmful to plants, as well as their lack, it is better not to feed them a little, as with watering, than to overfeed them. Some of the gardeners may object: why feed and mess with irises, because they will bloom without it. But this is debatable.
For a dozen years of growing irises, there were periods when top dressing was not carried out at all for about three years in a row - the difference was very noticeable. If fertilizers are used, irises bloom more abundantly and much more magnificently, their flowers are brighter and larger, the leaves are healthy and glossy, and the flower stalks are strong enough that they do not break even in strong winds, which do not require tying at all.
But the main thing at the same time - the growth of such bushes, occurs much faster. For these reasons, the answer to the question to feed or not is unequivocal - to feed, but at the same time wisely and in moderation. I have already developed a feeding scheme with a complex of micro and macro elements once a season before the start of the flowering period. I notice from my irises that they like it, they grow very quickly and bloom gorgeously.
Preparing irises for winter
Because of characteristic feature irises, consisting in the fact that their root system grows horizontally, sometimes their roots are exposed above the surface, so in winter they need to be sprinkled with additional earth and peat, otherwise they will freeze. In the spring, this layer of soil is carefully removed.
Leaves, straw, corn stalks as a covering material, or any other material under which irises can rot under are categorically not suitable. For shelter it is better to use the earth. Pour some handfuls of soil into the middle of the bush in order to cover the exposed rhizomes.
When snow falls, it can also be used as a shelter, additionally sprinkling it on the planting of irises. And in spring period, after the soil dries, the excess soil should be carefully distributed around the bushes. And yet, in the matter of sheltering irises for the winter period, it is impossible to give unequivocal advice for all gardeners.
Since, when growing irises in the southern regions, you can completely do without shelter for the winter period, but in the east and north of Russia, some varieties simply need preventive shelter.
Iris breeding
There are three ways to propagate irises - seeds, sprouts or rhizomes.
At the same time, the main difference between these methods is that flowering of irises grown from seeds should be expected only in the second or third year, and flowers grown from rhizomes will bloom in the first year.
Reproduction of irises by dividing the bush
When dividing a bush, only the healthiest bushes are selected. Having dug out all the rhizome from the ground, it is necessary to thoroughly shake off the whole earth in order to clearly see each root, then cut into small sections, so that each part has one leaf bundle left. The leaves are cut in half.
After that, it is necessary to carry out disinfection in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (dip the roots in the solution for 10-15 minutes), and dry in the sun. Plant in small holes, no deeper than 3-4 cm and at a distance of no closer than half a meter.
Vegetative propagation of iris
For propagation by sprouts, it is necessary to wait for at least one flowering of the plant, only after that you can safely use young shoots. At the same time, it is worth cutting them off before the buds appear.
Rooting is carried out by planting in the ground in a shady place, creating a greenhouse. Spray additionally if necessary. After 2-3 weeks, full rooting can be observed.
Iris growing from seed
After flowering, collect the dried ovaries. They can be stored in boxes in a dark and dry place. In autumn, prepared seeds are planted in pots with a sandy substrate and covered with glass or polyethylene (create a greenhouse). Closer to spring, the seedlings will sprout, they need to be thinned out.
Young growth is planted only after it has grown enough to make it convenient to plant. It is worth noting that only species irises can be propagated in this way, but with varietal irises, problems may arise with the preservation of maternal characteristics.
Bacteriosis or soft rot of iris rhizomes
One of the dangerous diseases that affects irises is soft, bacterial, root rot . The plant dies with a strong degree of infection.
Signs of this disease are the rotting of the leaves at the base of the rhizomes, while the leaves remain green and simply fall out in whole fans. The rhizomes themselves inside turn into a fetid slurry. Affected bushes should be completely dug up, cut out all damaged areas, reaching healthy tissue, each time the cutting tool should be disinfected.
The bushes are divided, the places of cuts are sprinkled with crushed coal, after which they are laid out in the sun to the top with rhizomes for one to two days, for a good warming. You should not be afraid that the irises will dry out. Such procedures are a way of salvation for diseased plants. After that, the delenki that have dried up and warmed up are transplanted to a new site, and watered.
The earth in the contaminated area is disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate, and the contaminated material is burned. With moderate damage to the rhizomes of the disease noticed in time, it is possible to save irises in almost one hundred percent of cases.
Rust spots irises
In spring and summer, leaves of irises may appear rust spots , which grow over time, causing gradual drying of the leaves. Particularly rapid spread of these spots occurs at high humidity.
To prevent leaf spotting, irises should be treated with fungicides in the spring at the very beginning of intensive plant growth, with a mandatory repetition in ten to fourteen days to consolidate the results.
And at the beginning of the flowering period, a control treatment is carried out. It should also be taken into account that solutions of drugs on the leaves are poorly retained, for this reason special adhesives should be added.
First on the list garden favorites you can safely put bearded irises, their main distinguishing feature is a fluffy strip located along the central vein of the outer and sometimes inner flower petals.
Intensive breeding work with bearded irises began at the beginning of the 19th century in Europe. garden varieties bearded irises obtained by crossing eight types of iris: German iris (Iris germanica), motley (Iris variegata), pale (Iris pallida), leafless, Cypriot, Mesopotamian, Kashmir, Trojan. Therefore, bearded irises are still often called Germanic irises in commercial labeling. This outdated name has now been replaced by another, which very accurately reflects the essence - hybrid iris (Iris hybrida hort.), After all, all varieties of bearded irises are hybrids obtained as a result of multiple crosses (artificial pollination). This is truly a flower self made”, a masterpiece created by man in union with nature.
In addition to the border, patterns of strokes of different colors, complex combinations of different colors that turn into each other, many modern varieties have a specific texture of the petals. It creates special visual effects, giving pastels an alabaster haze or waxy translucency, and dark ones a velvety depth. Irises, like daylilies, have varieties with a "diamond coating" that sparkle in the sun or shimmer in the summer twilight.
In bearded irises, a thick perennial rhizome is located horizontally flush with the soil, long cord-like roots extend from it, forming a fibrous root system. The xiphoid leaves, covered with a bluish wax coating, are folded like a fan. An iris flower has three perianth lobes: those that look up are called "standards", those that look down are called "fouls".
At vintage varieties iris fouls are narrow, similar to the protruding tongue of a dog. Modern varieties have wide, rounded falls, domed or crowned standards, and variously shaped corrugations. A distinctive feature of irises of recent decades are wide fluffy beards, which in a group of varieties turn into colored "horns", "spoons" or "frills".
The color of the flowers has also reached an amazing variety. But, despite the deliberate efforts of hybridizers, until the iris is uniquely red, numerous attempts to get it led to the creation a large number red-burgundy varieties. Therefore, it is not an exaggeration to say that the modern range of irises covers the entire range of colors, including black.
According to the American Iris Society, the leader and legislator of modern bearded iris breeding, there are over 80,000 varieties today. In the AIS classification, irises are divided into six garden groups, which differ in the height of the peduncle, flower size and flowering time. To choose the right plants for your garden, you should get to know them better.
(table)
To describe the color features of bearded irises, a number of terms have been adopted:
plikata - on a light background, a pattern of dark dots and strokes, merging along the edge into a border;
luminata - patterned highlights on a dark background, standards are lighter;
blend (iridescent) - two or more colors smoothly transition into each other;
amena - white or lighter standards in a two-color flower, modern varieties have "reverse amena" when the standards are darker than the lower falls;
splash ("torn color") - against the background of the main color, numerous strokes and strokes of other colors.
GARDEN USE
Originators - this is the name of the creators of new varieties - in the process of working with the plant endow the flower with new properties. This is a special kind of creativity, aimed at finding a new visual image: in color, proportions and form. Therefore, figuratively speaking, all garden irises are works of art.
The most hardy and winter-hardy
The lower the iris, the faster it blooms, and therefore you will be the first to be greeted dwarf irises. Yes, they are not so small, 40 cm is an excellent growth for flowering in the first decade of May. "Dwarfs" (SDB) are higher than ground cover, small bulbs and perennials that are just getting out of the ground, but on a par with or slightly lower than daffodils and tulips. They hibernate without shelter, they are undemanding to the soil, they do not need watering, the heat of our summer is enough for them to multiply and bloom profusely. That is why, despite their low growth, dwarf irises have become one of the most fashionable and in demand for cultivation in temperate climates.
Low flowers in single and group planting look organic among the stones and ground cover plants on alpine slide, bringing to the composition color accents. The fantastic variety of colors of "dwarfs" allows you to create amazing combinations both on the basis of contrast and within the same color range. Plant dwarf irises along with tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, miniature primroses, and the eternal problem - the bare ground under the bulbs - will be forgotten forever.
Abundant and early flowering, unpretentiousness and fertility put dwarf irises out of competition when creating extended borders and flowering arrays of a large area, on lawns, in trunk circles trees, on sunny slopes. In the May garden, barely covered with the first greenery, a bright carpet of blooming irises will attract everyone's attention, and at the end of flowering it will become almost invisible. Iris leaves, pointed with a bluish bloom, retain their decorative effect throughout the season, but they are small in height, so they do not block other plants, being content with the role of a tactful background. It is possible to divide and transplant dwarf irises even during flowering; after a warm summer, they often bloom again in August - September. "Dwarfs" can be grown in container culture, on balconies and loggias, they feel good in pots and are easy to force out in the cold season.
The most friendly
In early June, the flowering relay passes to medium-sized bearded irises up to 70 cm high, this group consists of Intermedia (IB), Table (MTB) and Border (BB) irises. The flowers of the irises of this group can be very large and numerous, but due to the lower height of the peduncles, they are resistant to the wind. Table irises, as their name suggests, will decorate not only the garden, but also the house. Their graceful flowers on strong peduncles are ideal for making bouquets. A cut flower opens all the buds, which allows it to retain its decorative effect in a vase for a long time. Moreover, such a bouquet can bloom for you by the New Year or March 8 - medium-sized irises lend themselves perfectly to distillation and are able to fully bloom indoors in winter.
The flowering of the newest varieties of foreign selection is simply amazing by the size, shape of the flowers, and the amazing play of shades. However, being plants of southern origin, they may require additional attention during the period of adaptation to new climatic conditions. This is especially true for peach-pink colors, they are most vulnerable to frost.
In early June, in the off-season, when the primroses have already departed, and the annuals and perennials are still preparing to bloom, it is the medium-sized irises that will add the missing colors to the garden palette. Medium-sized irises winter stably, grow rapidly, forming lush bushes with many peduncles.
This is the most versatile class of irises, excellent both in a single planting and in all forms of a group.
In addition to creating borders and large arrays, medium-sized irises are best suited for planting on slopes, their powerful root system will hold the soil layer and prevent terrain deformation.
"High genre"
Tall Irises (TV)- born soloists. By growing such a meter-long handsome man near a house or a path, you will give yourself the incomparable pleasure of watching the birth of a flower, changing its outlines and shades as it grows. An iris bush can produce 10-15 peduncles, each of which can open up to 25 flowers at the same time. Of particular interest is the collection of irises for connoisseurs of aromas, because the variety of smells in different varieties bearded irises are no less than the range of colors and shapes.
Jasmine, peonies, foxglove, daylily, geyhera and onions blooming at the same time will serve as an excellent backdrop for irises. The outstanding decorative qualities of many modern varieties with massive peduncles, large corrugated flowers will be emphasized by the discreet "accompaniment" of decorative leaf crops (chistetsa, sage, hosts, bergenia, wormwood, cuffs, stonecrops and young).
In all classes of bearded irises, there are varieties capable of re-blooming, this property is called remontant and is indicated by the abbreviation (RE). But in the middle lane, this is more of a disadvantage than an advantage. In our climate, re-blooming in autumn is very irregular and occurs in dwarf and medium-sized irises after a very warm summer. All remontant varieties continue to grow actively in autumn, not having time to enter a state of dormancy before the onset of frost, which is necessary for a successful wintering. Therefore, re-blooming irises are the least cold-resistant and difficult to grow group of varieties.
In a group planting, varieties of pastel colors or just similar in color look harmonious. Be especially attentive to two-color irises, they rarely “go” to plant in a single array. In the field of contrasting combinations, a non-linear arrangement of curtains of a sufficiently large area opens up a lot of opportunities; it is desirable to arrange groups from an odd number of varieties.
The June bloom of tall bearded irises is truly magnificent! Their advantages are obvious, and the variety of varieties will satisfy the most demanding connoisseur. The choice depends entirely on your tastes and the location of the garden. I will only note that high (TV) is the most demanding class of irises in terms of growing conditions.
The most unpretentious and resistant to cold, pests and diseases are the irises of the old classic varieties, bred in the 19th and early 20th centuries. However, with all their endurance, they are significantly inferior to modern varieties in terms of decorative qualities. Beginning flower growers should pay attention first of all to the varieties of domestic selection, one of the main priorities of which was the breeding of varieties that are most resistant to cold and disease.
SELECTION OF PLANTING MATERIAL
The planting unit of the bearded iris, the so-called "delepka", is a segment of a thick rhizome with roots extending from it and a fan of leaves, which are shortened to a length of 10-15 cm. High-quality delenki have clearly visible buds on the sides. You can plant irises from May to September, so planting material goes into mass sale in early spring. Wherever you buy irises, be sure to take the delenka in your hands and carefully inspect the plant. Yellowing of a pair of outer leaves is quite acceptable, but if softened areas of the rhizome, mold or spots are found, you should refrain from purchasing.
Bearded irises are very sensitive to excess moisture. Humidity, especially when combined with heat for planting material destructive. Mature rhizomes are not afraid of drying and can be stored in a dry and cool place for up to 2 months. This feature contributed to the widespread culture of bearded irises, because delenki perfectly tolerates mailing. Therefore, the most rational way to purchase planting material that is healthy and appropriate for the variety is to contact collectors.
The largest association of iris lovers, as well as breeders and competent producers of planting material is the Russian Iris Society. Within the framework of this non-profit association of flower growers, exhibitions, training seminars, official registration of new varieties are held, and the purchase of planting material of Russian and foreign selection is coordinated. Anyone can become a member of the ROI, the association maintains an official website (http//rusiris.narod.ru) and annually publishes the bulletin "Irises of Russia" with an overview of the most significant events in the modern world of irises, articles on agricultural technology and selection of these plants. Company address: 129110 Moscow, st. Gilyarovsky, 36-23.
What is important to take into account when purchasing planting material from private collections?
The level of collection management is largely evidenced by the catalog - a list of proposed varieties with a description that informs you as much as possible about the properties of the variety. Be sure to indicate the class of the variety according to the height of the peduncle. The name is followed by the name of the breeder, the year of registration of the variety, a description of the color, features and awards received.
The times when you could basically dream of new selections are over. Now we recklessly flip through catalogs, jumping from site to site in search of interesting varieties. But the greater the choice, the more difficult it is to make it. To lay and maintain a solid foundation for an iris garden will allow one "golden" rule - first of all, choose award-winning varieties.
Collectors who value their reputation and circle of customers offer a system of discounts, bonuses, guarantees and order approvals, following the world practice of offering planting material. Including its unwritten law: the older the variety, the lower its price. The high cost of the latest varieties is explained not only by their outstanding decorative qualities, but also by the number of plants themselves. At the irises new variety it reproduces only vegetatively, that is, by dividing one "original" plant obtained from a seed, therefore, by the time the variety is officially registered, the number of plants - its carriers is small, and it is customary to set the highest price for the right to own them. For reference: the price of varieties of the current year among the luminaries of the American selection ranges from 30 to 50 dollars.
GROWING IRIS
Selecting a landing site
In order for the flowering to be regular and plentiful, the site for planting bearded irises should be as warm, light as possible, and when planting tall irises, be sure to be protected from the wind. Bearded irises do not tolerate excessive moisture, so flooded lowlands are not for them, in areas with a high occurrence ground water landing is possible on raised ridges.
Soil preparation
The best soil for irises is light loam. Clay soils can be improved by adding sand and peat, acidic soils can be neutralized with dolomite flour, clay and well-rotted compost can be added to sandy soils. The soil under the irises should pass water and air well. In the fight for porosity, all means are good - coarse sand, crushed brick, fine limestone, and charcoal will do.
Excess nitrogen reduces winter hardiness and increases the risk of bacterial infections, so organic additives (completely rotted compost or manure humus) can be applied in small quantities to the lower soil layer, to the depth of thin roots, avoiding contact with a thick rhizome.
To obtain large plants of exhibition quality (especially tall irises), they practice planting on two-layer raised ridges. The bottom layer of soil consists of compost with the addition of dolomite flour, long-acting mineral fertilizers or a phosphorus-potassium complex, upper layer ridges (10-15 cm) - sand.
planting
You can plant irises and replant with a clod of earth from May to September, the best time is July, since at this time the active growth new roots. Planting young delenok should begin with disinfection. To do this, it is enough to withstand them for 15-30 minutes. in a pink solution of potassium permanganate. If the weather is sunny, put the delenki in the sun for several days so that the rhizome is illuminated from all sides. Such a "tan" destroys pathogenic bacteria and contributes to better survival and the formation of flower buds.
The perennial rhizome should remain on the soil surface when planted. Make a hole with a scoop, fill the bottom with a mound of earth (and best of all a mixture of sand and wood ash). Keep the rhizome flush with the soil surface, spread the roots along the sides of the mound, as if planting a delenka astride the mound. Backfill the hole, pressing the soil tightly around the roots with your hands. Water generously to make sure the delenka does not fall. It is not necessary to water the plantings anymore, it is important that all planted plants maintain an upright position, and the rhizome is not buried. Planted delenki can be supported from the side of the leaves with sticks or stones, after 2-3 weeks, new growing roots will provide the plant correct contact with soil.
And the last step, optional, but very far-sighted, is the installation of a label with the name of the variety. A disposable plastic knife will serve as such a label. Write the name of the variety with an indelible marker and stick it next to the plant.
The taller the iris, the more space it needs. And the more often you plant irises, the sooner you will have to plant the plants. When planting irises in groups, it is desirable to place plants at a distance from each other: for tall irises 30-40 cm, for medium-sized ones - 15-20, for dwarf ones - 10-15 cm. In the process of growth, bearded irises move, the rhizome moves forward along the soil surface, therefore, during curb planting, all divisions should look in one direction, it is better to orient the cut on the rhizome to the southeastern sector, so the rhizome will be better illuminated and warmed up. When nesting, delenki are placed with slices towards the center.
CARE OF BEARDED IRIS
In the spring, after the snow melts, it may seem that the irises have died, but do not rush to conclusions. If the rhizome is hard, after 1-2 weeks the iris will turn lush green. Treat the iris and the surrounding soil with ash or one of the fungicides. Wood ash for irises is both a hygiene product and a fertilizer; it is applied several times a season.
Most often, the upper part of the rhizome with a flower bud freezes out. Cut the damaged area to a solid healthy tissue as soon as possible. Iris renewal buds are laid on the sides of the rhizomes, so even a radically “operated” iris has a chance of survival. Fresh cuts on the rhizome should always be disinfected. Here are the remedies from the vast experience of practitioners; a mixture of sulfur and charcoal, brilliant green, fukortsin, potassium permanganate, metronidazole powder. Try to provide the rhizomes with maximum illumination, solar ultraviolet is the best way to combat bacteriosis.
The need for bearded irises in moisture is covered by the amount of natural precipitation, they do not need regular watering, watering is desirable in dry summers for tall irises during the flowering period. In the non-chernozem zone, the development and winter hardiness of plants can be stimulated by fertilizing. In spring, nitrogen-phosphorus (3:1), during budding - nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (1:1:1), 2-3 weeks after flowering - phosphorus-potassium (1:1). Fertilizers are applied to moist soil, preventing granules from getting on the rhizome.
Disease prevention and protection
The main care for irises comes down to disease prevention. The emergence of rot caused by various types of bacteria is facilitated by dampness, excess organic matter, thickened plantings and long-term cultivation in one place. When a disease is detected, there is only one way to fight: the affected part of the plant is cut out, the rest is treated with fungicidal agents (see above).
An effective measure for the prevention and control of rots of various origins is the introduction of preparations of live bacteria into the soil under irises (Trichodermin, Gliocladin), which suppress the development of pathogenic microorganisms. Spring sowing in areas intended for summer planting of irises, annual green manure crops (white mustard, phacelia), followed by planting them to a depth of about 20 cm, will improve the soil and provide irises with optimal nutrition.
In the second half of summer, brown spots and yellowing ends can be seen on the foliage of irises. Spotting caused by various pathogens does not directly threaten the life of the plant, but spoil appearance and may affect winter hardiness. To keep the foliage healthy will help: regular preventive spraying of foliage with fungicides (foundazol, "Maxim",
0.2% copper oxychloride), spacious planting, pre-winter leaf pruning (and even subsequent whitewashing with lime).
Wintering
Irises of domestic selection and time-tested foreign varieties, which have been grown for a long time in Russia, are distinguished by the greatest winter hardiness. middle lane. For most irises, 30 cm of snow is sufficient frost protection. The most vulnerable are the novelties of the world selection of tall irises. The potential of their winter hardiness and methods of shelter have to be established empirically.
Most of the dwarf and medium-sized irises in the garden near Moscow can winter without shelter. In high irises in November, before the cold weather, the rhizomes are covered with earth by 8-10 cm, and when the soil is seized with frost, they are covered with spruce branches or any breathable material on top.
The most reliable way to shelter bearded irises is "dry wintering".
In rainy autumn, a low hard canopy is installed above the irises so that the soil remains dry and the shelter is blown through. With the onset of the first frost, the foliage is cut off at a height of 10 cm, the plants are sprayed with a fungicide and covered with lutrasil over the canopy.
A small number of plants can be covered with mesh plastic boxes and lutrasil or caps from plastic containers with holes at the bottom. Any method that allows you to keep the air circulation under the shelter is good.
Irises, especially large-flowered varieties, with a powerful rhizome (they need a lot of space and nutrients), after a couple of years they grow and begin to interfere with each other. As a result, they bloom worse and worse. To avoid this problem, plants need to be divided every 4-6 years. For this, the period from the end of July to September is suitable. Remove the plant from the ground with a pitchfork, shake off the ground from the rhizome, cut the leaves. Then cut the rhizomes, separating the plants from each other. Select the strongest specimens with leaves. Plant them in a circle at a distance of 40 cm from each other, so that the cut plane of the rhizome looks inside this circle. You can add compost to the soil first. The rhizomes are only lightly sprinkled with soil, so that they are not visible. Water the plants generously. No further action is required in the coming weeks.
bearded iris is a very special plant. It was bred by crossing various kinds irises since antiquity. Thus, it is one of the most ancient garden crops in the history of mankind. Bearded iris grew in the gardens of the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans.
Iris was named after Irida, the goddess of the rainbow - after all, the flowers of this plant of different varieties are painted in the colors of the rainbow. Bearded irises (Iris x barbata) of modern varieties represent the whole variety of color shades: from snow-white to black-violet.
Varieties are divided into groups that differ in the height of the peduncles. Undersized bearded irises (Iris x barbata-nana), 20-40 cm high, bloom earlier than others, in spring. Medium-sized bearded irises (Irisxbarbata-media) include plants with a height of 50 to 70 cm. They bloom two weeks later than undersized ones. The most spectacular are tall bearded irises (Iris x barbata-elatior) 0.5-1 m high, their large flowers bloom in summer.
The variety of shapes and colors contributes to the popularity of bearded iris. In addition, it fits very harmoniously into various garden styles. So, in combination with decorative bows, lupins and delphinium, irises create a romantic mood in the garden. The same effect is produced by a trio of iris, peonies and geraniums. The spirit of the Mediterranean emanates from the flower garden with catnip, santolina, milkweed and lavender. Bearded iris is also suitable for gardens in modern style, which usually grow a limited number of plants that stand out with something special. In such a garden, for example, a group of irises with their pointed xiphoid leaves and large picturesque flowers could become bright accent against the background of graceful silhouettes ornamental grasses. Tip: if you're going. to grow bearded irises of multi-colored varieties, choose monochromatic partners in the flower garden for them, otherwise the whole composition will turn out to be too colorful. For the bearded iris, you need to choose partners and taking into account that their roots do not drown out the rhizomes of the soloist plant, which are tightly adjacent to each other and are shallow in the soil. It is also necessary to process it and weed it very carefully so as not to damage the rhizomes of irises.
Iris is unpretentious if the place for its growth is chosen correctly. He prefers sunny places, that is, the flower garden should be well lit by the sun for at least three-quarters of the day. If you plant a bearded iris in the shade, then it will not bloom. The soil should be well-drained and limed. When waterlogged, the fleshy rhizomes of bearded iris can rot.
On a note:
In nature, there are many shades of iris: from white to black. Divide the irises into two large groups: tuberous and bulbous. For planting, choose a sunny place: they tolerate flowers and light partial shade. Neutral soils are suitable. On wet soils they get sick, but on acidic soils they do not bloom. Planted plants in September-October, so that they only have time to take root. The flowering period of irises is short - from May to June. Flowers live only one to five days, but the leaves are decorative throughout the life of the plant. Three times a season, irises are fed with mineral fertilizers.
Planting irises
It is best to plant bearded irises in August. Important: the plants should have time to settle down in a new place before winter. If you don't have time until autumn, you can try planting irises in the spring. To do this, simply loosen the soil, deepen the rhizomes a little into it and lightly sprinkle them with soil.
The distance between plants depends on whether you have chosen a tall or short variety, and ranges from 40 to 80 cm. Bearded iris loves fertile soil, but it is better not to feed it with nitrogen fertilizers. Choose phosphate and potash fertilizers and apply them before flowering begins. An increased nitrogen content can cause rotting of the rhizomes. If this happens, the rotten parts are cut off, and the wounds are treated with crushed charcoal.
Bearded irises in bloom special care do not require. Just enjoy their beauty. Plants should only be watered in very dry weather. In faded irises, the stems are cut at a level of 10 cm from the soil surface. So-called remontant varieties, such as Lovley Again, bloom again in late summer or even autumn, thereby reducing the waiting time for the next mass flowering of these magnificent flowers.
Note: Sharing
When transplanting and dividing bearded iris and for the prevention of bacterial rot, it is useful to leave dug out rhizomes for a couple of hours in the sun.
When planting, the leaves are cut to two-thirds of the original length.
Planting bearded irises
The technique of planting bearded irises has its own characteristics.
Dig a hole according to the size of the roots, pour soil into its center,
place the rhizome on the formed mound, straighten the roots
and cover with earth. The upper part of the rhizome should remain on
soil surface exposed to sunlight. Watering is usually not needed.
If the iris is divided and planted in the previous year, you need to
remove the flower arrow so as not to deplete the plant.
For those who are unable to contain their curiosity and want to admire
flowers of a new variety, we recommend cutting off the peduncle when blooming
first bud. The rest will bloom already in a vase of water.
Bearded Iris Care
Bearded irises require regular weeding - weeds are oppressive
plants and create conditions favorable for the development of diseases.
Loosen the soil - bearded irises do not like excessive moisture.
For flowering, irises need mineral fertilizers.
For central Russia, three top dressings are recommended:
at the beginning of May (when the buds start growing), at the beginning of June
(this top dressing is needed for the development of the peduncle) and after 2-3 weeks
after flowering (the period of formation of flower buds next year).
Suitable complex mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus
and potassium. In mid-May, June and August, the soil surface
it is useful to sprinkle with wood ash at the rate of Matchbox on
plant. Top dressing with wood ash supplies plants with potassium,
reduces the risk of diseases and lowers the acidity of the soil.
Preparing irises for winter
Varieties of domestic selection do not need shelter. Southern varieties
origins need winter shelter - in harsh winters, flowery
the kidneys freeze out, although the vegetative ones remain alive. As a result, bushes
irises grow, but do not bloom. Before the cold weather sets in
sprinkle the rhizomes with soil or peat to a height of 10 cm. For reliability
cover landing spruce branches. Do not cover irises with leaves or
manure - plants can die from decay.
For full rooting, bearded irises need 60 days.
With late autumn planting plants will need winter shelter,
protecting them from bulging. A week before a permanent cold snap
sprinkle the delenki with a 10-centimeter layer of soil. If the irises are planted
in spring or late July - early August, they are not threatened with bulging.
You don't need to cut the leaves.
Iris care in spring
At the end of April, shelter from irises can be removed. Need to do it
be careful not to break the buds that have started to grow.
While there is a danger of frost, leave a layer above the rhizome
soil 1-2 cm thick, but in mid-May, the backs of rhizomes
should be on the surface of the soil. If the rhizomes
yet frozen, they turn into a white slurry.
It is necessary to clean the roots of softened areas
to hard tissue. For this, it is convenient to use the usual
spoon. Cover a healthy cut with brilliant green, let dry
and powder with crushed charcoal or ash.
Reproduction and transplantation of irises
Irises are propagated by dividing the bush, pieces of rhizomes,
cuttings, baby bulbs and seeds.
Sowing is best done in autumn with freshly harvested seeds.
on ridges of open ground. Stratified in greenhouses
seeds are sown in winter. Heavily overgrown bushes need
divide. In central Russia, irises are transplanted into
early May and late July - early August.
For accelerated reproduction, cut the excavated rhizome
into small (2-3 cm) parts, laying them in the grooves so that
so that the bleached side is down, and the dark side is up.
Places of incisions are sprinkled with crushed coal or wood ash.
Less commonly, bearded irises are propagated with eyes that are cut out
from a rhizome, summer cuttings, a leaf with a piece of rhizome.
During the summer transplantation, the leaves of the irises are shortened.
Diseases of bearded irises
The most common disease is bacteriosis. rhizomes
become soft, brown and rot.
The reason is the deep planting of the rhizome. Dig out the startled
bush, cut out all diseased tissues, disinfect
in a strong solution of potassium permanganate and put the rhizome for several hours
in the sun, turning it over regularly. The causative agent of bacteriosis dies,
when it hits a straight line sunlight. plant a rhizome
right, so that his back "sunbathed" in the sun.
In the second half of summer (dew season), irises are attacked
rust and other pathogens of leaf spots.
At the first sign of infection, treat the leaves with foundationazole
or copper-containing preparations. At the beginning of the growing season
leaf-eating beetles may appear on irises, according to the behavior
very reminiscent of cruciferous fleas. deal with them
drugs that are effective against the Colorado potato beetle will help.
Irises in a landscaped garden
Irises are planted in groups, because stronger perennials
able to suppress them. Grow well and bloom without transplanting
in one place up to five or six years. It is not recommended to plant
bearded irises in mixed plantings - an additional
moisture in the root zone, which can cause them to rot
and plant death.
Dwarf irises are great for decorating rockeries -
rocky garden, among sedums, saxifrages, subulate phloxes,
crowded bluebell, low cereals, among undersized
creeping shrubs.
Medium-sized irises surrounded
geraniums, initial letters create a harmonious composition. Time from
time, clean the plantings of irises from dry and dead parts
corms, plant overgrown fans - keep
planting irises in order.
Irises for cutting
Irises - valuable cut plants - at the time of their flowering others
flowers in open ground very little; cut bouquet of irises
remains in water for up to two weeks. Flowers should be cut in buds.
Early-flowering species and varieties are used for distillation, and from
of them, those that reproduce by bulbs are most suitable.
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IN Lately lovers of perennial iris flowers are increasingly cultivating beardless varieties. But fans of the classics prefer the cultivation of bearded irises - beautiful and strict flowers with a massive petal in the form of a "tongue" or "beard", which is distinctive feature of this plant, its "highlight". By grouping varieties of irises by flowering time, you can provide decorativeness from May to July.
In nature, there is a flower that smoothly leads us from spring to summer. First, in early spring, wild irises bloom, they are replaced by "bearded" dwarfs and Spuria, and by the end of May the garden shimmers with all the colors of the rainbow thanks to the numerous varieties of tall bearded irises. In June, marking the arrival of summer, we are delighted with their elegance Siberian and Japanese.
The perennial plant iris belongs to the iris family, or iris. There are about 200 species growing in Europe, Asia, Africa, North America. In the XX century. irises have received wide recognition from flower growers in most countries, and in terms of the number of varieties (more than 35 thousand), this culture has come to one of the first places.
You can judge how the iris looks even from the most ancient frescoes. The history of the flower goes back centuries. Irises were cultivated in the gardens of the Egyptian pharaohs. IN Ancient Greece they planted entire fields. Because of the variety of colors, the plant was given the name "iris", which in Greek means "rainbow". The ancient Hellenes were in awe of irises and considered them messengers of the golden-winged goddess Irida, the messenger of the gods, the interpreter of their will.
Irises attracted people not only with their beautiful flowers. They were valued as medicinal plants, perfumery and confectionery raw materials.
irises- perennial rhizomatous plants. The rhizome is located parallel to the soil level at a shallow depth and in bearded irises comes to the surface. The rhizome, containing a supply of nutrients, consists of annual links. The newly formed links end with a bunch of sessile leaves that die off annually. The leaves are broadly or narrowly xiphoid, straight or crescent-curved, most often collected in a fan-shaped bundle. They are usually light green in spring, darkening in summer.
And what is the difference between the description of bearded irises of hybrid varieties? In these plants, the leaves are usually gray with wax coating and, as a rule, persist until late autumn. Therefore, irises decorate the garden not only during flowering.
Peduncles branch and carry from 1 to 10 flowers or more. The number of branches depends on the species and variety. The height of the stem in different species varies greatly - from 15 cm in dwarf iris to 2 m in marsh.
The flowers, distinguished by extraordinary grace and sophistication, consist of 6 perianth lobes arranged in two tiers: three outer petals are bent down, and three inner petals are raised up and form a dome. Perianth segments are deployed in such a way that any detail of each "petal" is visible. What do iris flowers look like? bearded varieties? On their lower petals are soft bristly outgrowths resembling a beard, which gave the name to the group.
The iris flower is remarkable for its sparkling, mysterious brilliance of the petals, especially noticeable in the oblique rays of the sun or under electric lighting. This is due to the peculiar structure of cells that focus light, like miniature optical lenses. No wonder in the old days some gems of iridescent color were called irises.
The color of the flowers is unusually diverse. There are solemnly velvety, mysterious black irises, but no less mysterious is the sparkling brilliance of white and light blue flowers, reminiscent of the transparency of ice or crystal. And between white and black - a whole range of blue, purple, pink, yellow, reddish and even brown shades. Neither painting nor photography fully conveys the play of color, texture, graceful lines of these flowers. No wonder irises are compared with.
See how the iris looks in the photo to once again enjoy the beauty of this plant:
Conditions for growing bearded irises
Now it's time to learn how irises are grown in personal plots. For hybrid bearded irises, sunny places are selected, protected from strong winds. They can tolerate light partial shade from trees. Most varieties have very large flowers, for which gusts of wind with rain are especially dangerous. Therefore, during the period of mass flowering in windy, rainy weather, garter of peduncles is required.
Another important condition for growing irises - the presence of light, loamy soil. If the soil on the site is heavy, it needs to be improved by adding sand and peat. Wood ash is added to acidic soils. Before planting, the site should be dug up on a shovel bayonet and carefully remove all weeds. The rotted manure is applied to a depth of 20-25 cm without mixing it with the ground.
Irises are afraid of excessive moisture, so they grow best in areas with a low standing groundwater. However, during the period of budding and flowering, they show an increased need for water. Good watering at this time helps to prolong flowering and creates favorable conditions for pollination. Watering is best done in the evening.
The faded flowers of bearded irises are removed, and the flower stalks are completely broken out at the end of flowering. In late autumn, the leaves are shortened to 10 cm. Plants are covered with a small layer of mulch for the winter. Frost-resistant varieties are covered more carefully. In the spring, after the snow has melted, the compacted winter shelter is carefully stirred. It is completely removed in early or mid-April, depending on weather conditions. Bearded irises, despite their southern origin, tolerate spring frosts quite well compared to other perennials with temperatures dropping to -5 ... -7 ° С.
How to plant irises and how to care for them
And how to plant irises in order to ensure their violent growth? Plants propagate by rhizomes. To do this, the root is dug up, divided into planting units, the so-called divisions, each of which consists of 1-3 annual units. Before planting irises, root sections are treated with crushed charcoal or potassium permanganate solution.
When is the best time to plant irises so that they sprout on time? The optimal time for planting irises is 2 weeks after flowering. With a clod of earth, they can be transplanted at any time. However late boarding(later September 10-15) leads to poor rooting of plants. When planting, it is important that the delenka is not buried. The rhizome is located almost at the level of the soil surface. A mound of earth is poured at the bottom of the hole and the roots are evenly spread along its slopes, covered with earth and pressed tightly with hands. Plentifully watered with water, once again check whether the delenka is planted firmly enough. The rhizome should be horizontal, and the leaf fan should be slightly sloping. Tall and medium-sized irises are planted at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other, and undersized - 15-20 cm.
Landing links are positioned so that there is room for "movement". The root system of irises is directed forward (along the growth of the rhizome), and the planted delenka will continue to grow with that part where the leaf fan is located. When nesting planting irises, the plane of the leaves should be directed across the outlined circle.
If the soil is clayey and does not pass water well, it is recommended to plant the delenka on a “pillow” of sand or fine gravel so that the water does not stagnate and the rhizome does not rot. When planting, the rhizome is not buried, but only sprinkled with a layer of earth no more than 2-3 cm - over time, it will come to the surface on its own.
After planting irises, when caring for plants, top dressing is carried out at least three times. There are no universal recommendations on how to care for irises in terms of fertilizer, but one rule must be firmly remembered: excessive feeding is detrimental to plants. The first top dressing is carried out in the spring, immediately after removing the shelter (nitrogen-phosphorus - 3: 1), the second after 2-3 weeks (nitrogen-potassium - 1: 1). At the end of flowering, nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (3:1:3) is added. The last top dressing is very important for a good flowering of irises next year, it should not be skipped. Top dressing is carried out at the rate of 10 liters of solution per 1 m2, or for 6 iris bushes. During the summer, the soil around the plants is lightly sprinkled 1-3 times with ash, which is not only top dressing, but also repels pests and prevents diseases.
Here you can see photos of planting and caring for irises of various groups:
Now that you know how to care for irises, check out the most popular varieties.
Varieties of bearded irises with photos, names and flowering periods
Bearded irises are divided into 3 groups according to height: undersized (25-36 cm), medium-sized (37-70 cm), tall (more than 70 cm).
According to the timing of flowering, varieties are divided into early, mid-early, medium, medium-late and late. The beginning of flowering of each of these subgroups may vary in different years depending on weather conditions. For example, in the Moscow region early varieties bearded irises bloom in mid-May and bloom until the end of the month. Medium-early bloom in the last five days of May and finish flowering in the first decade of June. Medium and mid-late varieties that prevail in our gardens bloom throughout June. Late varieties that bloom in early July are rarely grown.
According to the color of the flower, irises are divided into 13 classes: white, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, red-violet, black, two-tone, two-tone, bordered, iridescent.
It should be noted that green color irises have a yellowish or brownish tint. There are no varieties with a scarlet, pure red color: irises have brown, terracotta, cherry shades. Pink irises are classified as light red. Brown color classified as dark orange. Black has blue, purple, brown, dark cherry shades and is characterized by a special depth and velvety.
Below you will see photos and names of varieties of bearded irises that have bloomed since mid-May, as well as read their descriptions.
"Arkady Raikin". This variety of iris got its name in honor of the great Russian comedian. Peduncle 80-100 cm, strong, short-branched, 5-7-flowered. Flower 12-13 cm, delicate reddish-pink color, the outer lobes are semi-drooping, the inner ones are slightly corrugated along the edges, the aroma is strong.
"Beverly Hills". The height of the bush is 50 cm, the peduncles are 80-85 cm. In the inflorescence there are 3-4 very showy flowers with a diameter of 17 cm. The upper perianth lobes are light pink, very wavy, the lower ones are paler, soaring. The beard is pink.
Blue Staccato. The height of the bush is 55-60 cm, peduncles - 90-100 cm. In the inflorescence 4-5 very showy flowers with a diameter of 16 cm.
Pay attention to the photo of bearded iris flowers of this variety - the upper perianth lobes are blue-blue, wavy, slightly fringed, the lower ones are white with a blurred blue border, the beard is golden yellow:
"Burgomaster". The height of the peduncles is 100-110 cm. There are 5-7 flowers in the inflorescence. The outer lobes are purple-lilac with a brownish border, the inner ones are yellowish-cream. The beauty of the flower is emphasized by graceful corrugation.
"Guards". Peduncle 125-140 cm, strong, long-branched, 10-12-flowered. Flower 14-15 cm, sunny yellow with an orange beard, aroma strong, honey.
Canada Gold. Peduncle 90-105 cm, strong, short-branched. The flower is light golden yellow with an orange beard, the aroma is strong. It blooms profusely, the bush grows quickly.
"Supreme Sultan". It has a powerful bush with strong peduncles up to 120 cm high and more. It has the largest flowers to date (more than 20 cm in diameter). This variety of bearded iris belongs to the two-colored: the inner lobes are bronze-yellow, the outer ones are red-brown, velvety. It is distinguished by excellent corrugation and unusual bubble edges of the petals.
"Kentaki Derby". The height of the bush is 50 cm, the peduncles are 80-90 cm. In the inflorescence there are 5-6 flowers with a diameter of 16 cm. The perianth segments are light lemon-yellow, wavy, with fringed edges, on the lower ones there is a creamy white spot in the center. The beard is golden.
