Mixer      07.03.2020

Peat foam balls. Which soil baking powder to choose depending on its type on the site. What type of baking powder should be applied

Most often, baking powder is used:

  • vermiculite;
  • perlite;
  • coconut substrate;
  • dry moss;
  • seaweed;
  • crushed pine bark;
  • charcoal;
  • chopped Christmas tree needles;
  • medium sand;
  • brick chips;
  • granulated clay;
  • some types of red (horse) peat;
  • foam balls.

Requirements for baking powder on different soils

Baking powders perform many important functions.

1. "Breathing" of the soil - baking powder allows the soil to "breathe", providing the roots with access to oxygen and the removal of unnecessary gases (for example, excess nitrogen).

As a result, thanks to baking powder:

  • there is no formation of a superficial crust;
  • the earth does not cake, does not become heavier, no lumps form in it;
  • the soil acquires the necessary looseness for the "breathing" of the roots and facilitate their growth.

2. Prevent sudden changes in temperature in the soil.

For example, if you choose coarse sand or pebbles as drainage or baking powder, then:

  • on sunny days, they get very hot and can “burn” the roots;
  • on cold nights, they cool very quickly and can freeze the roots.

All types of baking powder provide temperature balance, except for sand, pebbles, brick chips.

3. Disinfect the soil. Any baking powder inhibits soil rotting and the development of fungal diseases of plant roots. However, some of them (charcoal, dry moss, seaweed) are also antiseptics, and sphagnum moss also has antifungal properties.

Vermiculite for plants

If you have the opportunity to buy vermiculite, then you will not need other baking powder - it is the most effective of them.

Vermiculite is a layered mineral, hydromica. It is very useful for improving any soil:

  • remarkably loosens the soil and prevents it from clumping;
  • creates excellent air permeability of the soil;
  • saturates it with useful minerals (aluminum, iron, potassium, calcium, silicon, magnesium);
  • very moisture-intensive - it absorbs water during irrigation, and then slowly gives it to the roots of plants, protecting them from decay and overdrying;
  • retains daytime heat and does not allow the roots to freeze even with severe nighttime temperature drops.

Perlite for plants: features of use

Perlite is a special rock, "volcanic glass".

In horticulture, expanded perlite is used - perlite crushed and quickly heated to 1100 ° C.

This is an excellent baking powder, but, compared to vermiculite, it has disadvantages:

  • too high price (several times more expensive than vermiculite);
  • absorbent properties are lower than those of vermiculite;
  • very brittle material, if stored improperly and intensively mixed with the soil, it can crumble into dust;
  • in any package of perlite there is always fine dust, because of which it is recommended to work with perlite in gloves and a respirator.

Sand is an economical baking powder

This is one of the most common and affordable baking powder - you can simply pick it up on the banks of a river or lake. It is more difficult to buy it, it is rare in stores.

Attention! Some shops sell building sand in the floriculture department - by no means buy it! It is very small and can kill all your plants!

The sand that you collected or bought (just for flowers, not building sand!), Must be washed and then disinfected.

The sand is washed under running water until all twigs and other debris are washed off, and the water becomes clear, without turbidity.

Sand disinfection can be carried out in various ways:

  • bake in the oven for 30 min. at temperatures up to 200°C;
  • process in the microwave for 6 minutes (just like earth) - pour water so that it completely covers the sand;
  • pour a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate, mix and leave for 15 minutes, then rinse.

If you yourself collected sand on the shore, it may not be uniform. Then, after disinfection, it should be sieved. This is especially important when sowing plants with tender roots, such as.

Even an old colander is suitable for this, with which you can get rid of too large grains of sand and pebbles.

Then the procedure can be repeated - sift the sand through gauze or a sieve. As a result, we get three heaps with sand of different sizes.

Important:

  • in no case do not use building sand, which is now sold in flower shops, as well as the sand that you woke up through a sieve or gauze - it is too small, does not breathe at all, makes the soil heavier and compacts (the roots in it will not be able to develop normally);
  • too coarse sand should not be used as a baking powder - moisture is poorly retained in it: if watered too abundantly, the roots will rot, and if not enough, the water will go down and the tender roots will simply dry out.

Leave coarse sand for decoration or drainage. The smallest one - better throw it away, or use it for other (for example, construction) work, but in no case when growing flowers!

Expanded clay for flowers: how to use

Expanded clay - light and cheap material, which is obtained by firing clay. It comes in different shapes. In floriculture, only expanded clay gravel is used - round or oval spools different sizes. You can buy it in flower, hardware and construction stores.

The shape and size of expanded clay from different manufacturers vary quite significantly:

In addition, very fine expanded clay and expanded clay chips can be used as a baking powder for the soil.

Getting a crumb is very simple:

  1. fold the expanded clay into a cloth bag or wrap it in a non-woven towel;
  2. place in a plastic bag (for example, those in which you carry groceries from the supermarket):
  3. arm yourself with a hammer and beat on this bag until you get bored (depending on the volume - from 2 to 5 minutes), but shake occasionally so that all large pieces are hit.

Having unfolded your bundle, you will see a crumb - it can be poured into any soil as a baking powder (by the way, you can also do it with ordinary brick, only at first it will need to be broken into pieces to make it easier to crush).

Peat as a soil conditioner

Peat is distinguished on the upper and lower.

horse peat light (reddish, light brown). It has a high acidity (pH 2.5-3), so in its pure form it is not suitable for any plant. However, it is good for increasing the acidity of alkaline and normal soils, as well as improving the structure of clay soils. There are very few useful elements in it. It absorbs moisture well, but also dries quickly.

grassroots peat dark, almost black (if you knead with your fingers, then black stains will remain on them). Its acidity is higher - pH 5.5-6.5. It contains more useful organic substances, decomposes much faster. It is he who is included in most high-quality earthen mixtures (“for vegetables”, “for flowering plants" etc.).

Helium balloons for flowers

Multi-colored helium balloons are very beautiful if you pour them into a vase and put flowers. However, they can also be used in another way - as a means of improving the properties of the soil and the health of the root system of plants.

It is difficult to call them soil baking powder in the usual sense of the word, but they perform very useful functions:

  • accumulate and release water, which is very useful for those who cannot water plants daily;
  • constantly changing in size, swelling and falling off, thereby “stirring” the soil, preventing it from caking, and provide roots with faster development.

Most often they are sold in large hardware and souvenir shops, as well as in flower shops called "Decorative soil", "Hydrogel", "Aqua soil".

Tiny balls, once in the water, swell and increase dramatically in size - from 2 mm to 2 cm!

They swell slowly, in a few hours, so you need to cook them in advance - you can even take a few days, but not less than 8 hours.

Take some balls (the color does not matter - they will not be visible in the ground).

Place in the bottom of a large jar and fill with water.

Attention! Helium balloons for flowers increase in size very much, so the container must be large enough. For example, the balls at the bottom of the glass will completely fill it in an hour!

After 8-10 hours, the balls swelled completely. As a result, these balls from a glass completely filled a liter jar:

Coconut Substrate for Soil Improvement

coco substrate(coconut peat, coconut briquette, coco-ground) - an amazing natural baking powder made from crushed coconut peel. It has a high water absorption capacity, creates excellent air permeability to the ground. It has an acidity pH of about 6.0. Compared to many other baking powders, it is inexpensive and very effective.

Briquettes with coconut substrate are sold in different sizes (from a package with briquettes-tablets to 5-kilogram bars). There is only one problem - it is almost impossible to buy it in stores, and ordering it on the Internet is too troublesome, because you need very little of it - after swelling, it increases by 25 times! Some plants can be grown directly in them.

Other soil disintegrators

Styrofoam balls- they are used by a lot of gardeners if it is impossible to find vermiculite or other baking powder. You just need to crush a piece of foam. It is a good leavening agent for the soil, and it also prevents the roots from overheating in the sun or freezing at night.

The inconvenience lies in the fact that they do not absorb moisture and often, when watering, they are washed up and gradually blown away by the wind, that is, there are few of them left in the ground.

Christmas needles- collect needles (in the forest or just from the Christmas tree), pour a little boiling water to the top and cook for 2-3 minutes. Drain the water (you can water the flowers with it), cool, dry and mash with a pestle.

You can add them to any neutral (up to 10% of the volume of the earth) or slightly alkaline (up to 20%) soil.

But in peat and other mixtures with high acidity (pH 4-5.5), you should not add Christmas tree needles: they increase the acidity of the soil and, for example, can damage. However, if you add dolomite flour and nitrogen fertilizers, then even slightly acidic soils can be loosened with needles.

pine bark- you can prepare it yourself (scrape dead scales from pine trunks) or buy it in a store.

The dried bark needs to be crushed (the easiest way is to cut it with a pruner) - depending on the quality of the pruner, you can cut either dry bark or pre-soaked (pour cold water overnight). The pieces will still turn out not too small - disassemble them by size. Larger ones (0.5–1 cm) can be poured into the lower layer of the earth, and all the little things into the upper one.

- white peat moss, grows in swamps and forests. A wonderful baking powder, has a high water capacity (almost like helium balloons!), It is detrimental to pathogenic bacteria.

If you have the opportunity to collect it yourself - you can’t think of a better baking powder. But if you buy it, then it is quite expensive.

Coffee grounds- having brewed coffee, you can not throw it away, but put it on a plate and dry it. When preparing the soil for sowing, diving or planting, add dried coffee grounds to any soil - this will make it much lighter and more breathable. Coffee grounds are good at absorbing and releasing water, keeping the soil well-hydrated - but coarse ground coffee grounds are more suitable for this. But over time, it decomposes and will have to be periodically mixed into the ground.

Charcoal- an excellent baking powder and at the same time an antiseptic. High water capacity, resistance to greening even in acidic soils. You can buy it in the store, or you can pull it out of an extinct fire.

Along with the introduction a large number organic fertilizers, compost, green manure, it is important to add soil baking powder to it. It can be either one component or several at the same time, depending on the condition of the soil and its type. The following baking powders are known: perlite, vermiculite, sand, expanded clay, helium balls, peat, Christmas tree needles, pine bark, etc.

The plants that live in our gardens are not native representatives of its biota. Vegetable, flower, coniferous representatives of the flora are imported by us to summer cottages always from outside, so that plants that have different requirements to the growing conditions to be on it independently. But I so want the dacha to be buried in the luxurious greenery of the gardens, coniferous trees, ornamental, overseas plants and flowers, and not overgrown with dull, but native sparse vegetation, more characteristic of meadows.

It is good at the same time if the land is rich in nutrients, fertile, well structured and aerated, and even fully meets the requirements of a particular culture. But this is now such a rarity! In connection with our anthropogenic activities, every year we ourselves destroy the structure of the soil. What to do? How to correct the situation and return the structure? It can be either one component or several at the same time, depending on the condition of the soil and its type.

Important functions of baking powder

Firstly, baking powder is a source of air for the soil (aerator). Due to their heterogeneous structure, they are able to form small air cavities in the soil, filled with oxygen, carbon, nitrogen, which is so necessary for plant roots for full growth and development. In addition, thanks to the introduced loosening components, the soil crust ceases to form on the surface, the earth does not become heavier, does not cake, does not press under its own weight even after watering.

Secondly, baking powder softens temperature fluctuations environment. The roots are comfortable in it even on cool nights, this is especially important for seedlings in spring period when sudden changes in temperature are inevitable. This protects the roots from stressful situations and, as a result, from the possibility of easily becoming infected with mycotoxins of fungal and bacterial diseases. But not all types of baking powder can provide temperature equilibrium in the soil. For these purposes, it is better not to use the following baking powder: coarse sand, fine gravel, brick chips. They have a property: at night they are very cool, and during the day, on the contrary, they heat up so that they can burn the roots and even cause death to the plant.

Thirdly, baking powder disinfects the soil. Thanks to the first two qualities, they inhibit the development of pathological flora in it, protecting plants from infection. In addition, some leavening agents, such as coal, moss, algae, also have antiseptic properties.

What type of baking powder should be applied

The need to introduce a certain type of baking powder is determined by the type of soil itself: sandy, loamy, clayey, podzolic, sod-podzolic, chernozem, as well as its pH level. So high-moor peat has a low acidity (3.0-4.5), which most do not like. cultivated plants, and the grassroots, on the contrary, has a normal pH level (6.0-7.0).

Most summer residents prefer the soil of the following composition, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1, respectively:

  • baking powder (perlite, sand, vermiculite);
  • humus, compost;
  • the earth itself.

Baking powders for improving the properties of sandy soil - in the ratio 2:1:2, respectively:

  • litter, grass, compost;
  • soddy land (since autumn interbedded with manure), which allows the sand to retain moisture and enriches it with nutrients, due to the applied fertilizers.

Baking powders for improving clay soil, in a ratio of 2:2:2, respectively:

  • manure;
  • sand.

Baking powders that improve very heavy soils (clay, podzolic, sod-podzolic) are best applied in autumn for digging, in the ratio, respectively: ½: ¼: ½: 3: 1:

  • straw, finely chopped twigs;
  • crushed brick;
  • bark;
  • manure.

The introduction of all these components for several years in a row is able to restore the structure of the soil. Identifying well-prepared soil is easy. To do this, you need to squeeze a small lump of slightly moistened soil in your hands:

  • if the earth sticks together in someone - bad;
  • if it crumbles like sand and becomes dusty, it’s bad;
  • if the structural components of the soil remain on the hand in the form of small soft lumps - fine, this is a highly structured soil.

Soil disintegrators for seedlings

So, the earth should be light, crumbly, aerated, well-drained and structured due to properly arranged soil fractions. One of the main components that are perfectly suited for this role is baking powder. Consider baking powder separately:

Perlite

It is a leavening agent natural material volcanic origin ("volcanic glass"). It contains oxides of magnesium, calcium, aluminum, sodium, iron, and other elements vital for plants.

An excellent soil conditioner. It surpasses vermiculite in its loosening properties. However, in some ways it is inferior to the latter. Disadvantages of perlite:

  • very expensive;
  • needed special conditions for storage so that the material does not turn into dust;
  • does not have a very high absorbency;
  • when working with it, be sure to use a respirator and gloves.

Vermiculite

We can say that this is the most effective baking powder, giving odds to other baking powder. It is a layered mineral formation, hydromica.

Excellent soil improver. Advantages over others:

  • loosens the compacted earth;
  • perfectly aerates the soil, structuring it;
  • rich in mineral elements: iron, potassium, calcium, silicon, magnesium, etc.
  • very moisture-absorbing - quickly absorbs moisture during irrigation, subsequently slowly giving it to the roots, thereby making the soil moisture-intensive;
  • provides thermal balance, accumulating heat during the day and giving it away at night.

Sand

The most economical baking powder in financial terms. Use only coarse river sand.

Sandy soil is also a source of minerals. It makes the soil porous, aerated, reduces soil caking, prevents the formation of a crust on the surface of clay soils, the earth becomes loose. Minus: not moisture-absorbing, not able to retain moisture in the ground.

Expanded clay

A material obtained by firing clay. Very light and relatively cheap. Will loosen any soil. Like sand, it is not hygroscopic.

Peat

High-moor peat has a light reddish, brownish hue and an acidic pH. It can only be used to increase the acidity of alkalized, chalky soils. The microelement composition is very poor. Grassroots - black or very dark. It is very rich in trace elements, organic substances. It is always included in the purchased universal primers.

helium balloons

Very beautiful, transparent different shades. As such, they do not loosen. They are used mainly for flat crops and seedlings.

Improve soil properties, healing the root system of plants. Hygroscopic: when watering, they swell, then gradually give off moisture, decrease, thereby moving soil particles, which manifests their loosening ability. Able to grow up to 10 times its original size. They swell very slowly, so you need to saturate them with moisture in advance, at least 10 hours before use, just by filling them with water.

Christmas needles

Can be dialed in pine. You can make them only in the fall under a shovel, or when preparing land for flowers. It should be borne in mind that they have an acidic environment (pH 4.5-5.5), due to which they increase the acidity of the soil. You can only apply for crops that prefer such acidity (conifers, thyme, blueberries, etc.). Application in conjunction with dolomite flour and nitrogen fertilizers can perfectly loosen even slightly acidic soils. It is possible to add them only as a component, not exceeding 10-20% of the loosened soil.

Uzambara (Uzumbarskaya) violet- a plant of the Gesneriev family, grows in the natural environment of tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, Africa, Eastern Australia, South America and the Indian Ocean islands.

Saintpaulia- a plant named after the father and son of Saint-Paul, who brought a plant unknown to Europeans from the Uzambara district (modern Tanzania) in the 19th century, presented for the first time on international exhibition flowers in Ghent in 1893.

Violet room- one of the most popular plants in indoor floriculture since 1927. By 1949, more than 100 varieties were bred, and today their number exceeds several thousand.

rooting- possibly in water, in the substrate, moss.

Priming- purchased soil or a mixture of leafy, coniferous, soddy and peat soil in a ratio of 3: 1: 2: 1 with the addition of baking powder (perlite, vermiculite, river sand, crushed sphagnum moss.

Lighting- it is best to put flower pots on the western or eastern windows. In order for the plant to be evenly lit from all sides, the pots are periodically rotated. In winter, when daylight hours decrease, you can use artificial lighting - fluorescent lamps.

Care- real art and serious painstaking work at the same time, including watering, fertilizing, creating a favorable humid climate. Water Saintpaulia as the soil dries. The soil must be regularly moistened, but excess moisture should not stagnate in the roots. When watering, it is necessary to ensure that water does not fall on the leaves. Do not water the Uzambara violet with cold water. Top dressing is carried out with a complex mineral fertilizer once in two weeks. Saintpaulia reacts negatively to a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Optimal Humidity air about 50%, temperature - 20-22 ° C, without sharp fluctuations and drafts. The leaves of the plant must not touch window glass. Removal of faded flowers and damaged leaves is carried out regularly.

reproduction- planting a leaf cutting, part of a leaf, a daughter outlet. The most popular method is rooting a leaf cutting. The formation of roots and the development of children lasts 4-8 weeks.

Pests- this is one of the problems of the grower. There are many various kinds pests, it is very difficult to classify them. Among the pests of saintpaulia, several groups can be distinguished: mites (spider, flat, transparent, etc.), insects (aphids, thrips, springtails, podura, mealybugs, whiteflies, scale insects, etc.), worms (nematode).

Diseases- distinguish between infectious gray rot, powdery mildew) and non-infectious diseases (rotting of the stem and root, wilting of the lower leaves, yellowing, leaf spotting, incomplete opening and premature drying, falling flowers) of plants. The causative agents of infectious diseases are bacteria, fungi, viruses. To prevent infectious disease it is necessary to strictly observe the modes of watering, temperature, humidity, illumination. Non-communicable diseases usually occur due to violations of agricultural practices. They may appear on one instance and not spread to others.

Hello dear readers! We have already written a lot about the fact that the soil for seedlings, and not only for seedlings, in addition to other precarious properties, must be well-drained. How to make good drainage at home? It is not difficult.

In addition to the classic perlite or vermiculite, there are some other cool materials that can be found in almost every home.

1.Foam crumb

Styrofoam is excellent as a drainage for soil mixtures. It collapses only under the influence chemical substances, resistant material0, does not react with soil components. And if pieces of polystyrene are certainly harmful for the environment, nature, then it is very suitable for growing crops.

Regular Styrofoam, which is used for packaging, is an excellent source of Styrofoam chips:

  • Doesn't absorb water
  • Does not rot
  • Unaffected by bacteria
  • Not affected by fungi
  • Non toxic

Yes, Styrofoam is toxic only in one case, when it burns.

2. Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a common construction material, which is obtained by firing clay, and which differs in particle size. In other words, it comes in different factions.

And if fractions of 5-40 mm in size are used in floriculture for the construction of a drainage layer, then expanded clay sand is useful for draining the soil - a particle diameter of less than 5 mm.

Excellent material, non-toxic, non-reactive, improves air and soil moisture exchange in containers.

If there is no construction at home, and such material is not available, it can be purchased at a hardware store.

3. Sand

Sand - perhaps the most common option - for a long time, hostesses have grown seedlings in sand-based soil mixtures.

  • The use of building sand should be avoided, it is too fine, it does not breathe at all, it weighs and compacts the soil; During irrigation, it is filled with particles of soil and simply clogs the drain holes, which leads to stagnation of moisture, compaction of the earthen coma.
  • It is also impossible to use too coarse sand as a baking powder - moisture is poorly retained in it.

4. Vermiculite

This is a layered mineral, hydromica, popular among gardeners and gardeners.

  • Remarkably loosens the soil, prevents compaction and the appearance of clods;
  • Creates excellent air permeability of the soil;
  • Saturates the soil with useful minerals (aluminum, iron, potassium, calcium, silicon, magnesium);
  • It absorbs water during irrigation, and then slowly gives it to the roots of plants, stabilizing moisture exchange.
  • Provides a stable temperature of the earthen clod.

How much vermiculite to add to the soil?

In the ground for sowing plants with very small seeds like petunias - from 30 to 70% of the total soil volume.
In the soil for seedlings - from 20 to 50% of the total soil volume.

For indoor flowers:

  • in heavy clay soils - up to 70% of the volume;
  • in store-bought light earthen mixtures for flowers - up to 25% of the volume.

5. Perlite

Perlite is a special rock, "volcanic glass", crushed and quickly heated to 1100°C.

  • Absorbs excess moisture, but the absorbing properties are lower than those of vermiculite;
  • very brittle material, if stored improperly and intensively mixed with the soil, it can crumble into dust;
  • in any package of perlite there is always fine dust, because of which it is recommended to work with perlite in gloves and a respirator.

6. Coconut substrate

Coconut substrate is an organic baking powder made from crushed coconut rinds.

  • Absorbs moisture well
  • Breathability is excellent
  • It has an acidity pH of about 6.0.

An effective tool for obtaining drained soil for seedlings at home. And relatively inexpensive.

7. Coffee grounds

This is an organic baking powder that is found in almost every home. It is ideal for sowing and growing seedlings - it should be added in an amount of up to 10% of the volume to light peat mixtures and up to 30% to heavy clay soils.

It absorbs and releases water well. But over time, it decomposes and will have to be periodically mixed into the ground.

8. Pine bark

Dried bark must be crushed. The pieces will still turn out not too small - disassemble them by size. Larger ones (0.5–1 cm) can be poured into the lower layer of the earth, and all the little things into the upper one.

It acidifies the soil, it can be added in small quantities to slightly alkaline and neutral soils.

9. Moss sphagnum

It is easy to drain the soil for seedlings with moss - you need to grind it (a branch no longer than 1 cm), cut it with scissors and add up to 10% of the volume of the earth. It is not required in the soil for sowing - except that it is very finely chopped (1-2 mm).

A wonderful baking powder, has a high water capacity (almost like helium balloons!), It is detrimental to pathogenic bacteria. If you have the opportunity to collect it yourself - you can’t think of a better baking powder.

10. Charcoal

Charcoal is used as a baking powder for soil up to 10% of the total volume of light soils and up to 30% of heavy clay soils.

Charcoal is an excellent baking powder and at the same time an antiseptic. High water capacity, resistance to greening even in acidic soils.

11. Helium balloons

They accumulate and release water, constantly changing in size, thereby loosening the soil, preventing it from caking, and provide the roots with good access to oxygen and moisture - more active development.

Relatively small balls, once in water, swell and sharply increase in size - from 2 mm to 2 cm.

In addition to the drainage effect, they also solve the problem of moisture supply.

12. Peat

Peat is distinguished on the upper and lower. Riding peat is light (reddish, light brown). It has a high acidity (pH 2.5-3), so in its pure form it is not suitable for any plant. However, it is good for increasing the acidity of alkaline and normal soils, as well as improving the structure of clay soils. There are very few useful elements in it. It absorbs moisture well, but also dries quickly.

The grassroots peat is dark, almost black (if you knead with your fingers, then black stains will remain on them). Its acidity is higher - pH 5.5-6.5. It contains more useful organic substances, decomposes much faster. It is he who is included in most high-quality earthen mixtures ("for vegetables", "for flowering plants", etc.).

Any of the means for arranging good soil drainage has invariable advantages. All of them, to varying degrees, improve the quality of the soil mixture according to the following parameters:

1. Air exchange - the roots need free access to oxygen and the removal of unnecessary gases.

2. No surface peel;

3. The soil does not compact, does not become heavier, does not form lumps in it.

4. Well-drained soil is not subject to sudden changes in temperature.

5. Well-drained soil is less susceptible to soil rot and the development of fungal diseases of plant roots.

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This is a photo of roots that were grown using styrofoam instead of perlite as a leavening agent.

Pros of using foam

Let me tell you about the advantages that I discovered for myself.
These are the roots that the baby grew up, transferred from a 100 ml cup to a 200 ml cup in about a month and a half. Moreover, in 100 ml the roots were not the most abundant.

The decision to try Styrofoam balls (polystyrene foam balls) came about in the search for a replacement for perlite, since its quality is in Lately completely ceased to suit me.
The idea was prompted by the roots of violets, which came to me from St. Petersburg and were planted in a similar mixture. I was very impressed, began to look for information and, for starters, gutted my pear chair
The impressions are the most positive. In the ground, a lot of air is obtained for the roots, which they like very much. Such soil practically does not freeze, it is not so supercooled. Balls are a completely inert filler; they do not accumulate in themselves and do not release anything into the ground.

The roots grow not only on the surface, covering the lump, but also “flash” it in all directions. So, it was even difficult to shake out the extra soil when planting this plant from the photo in a pot-eight (it was necessary to remove the extra height of the coma).

The growth rate of children in such soil is much faster.

I like the quality of the leaves better.

After all, this option is also cheaper.