Drainage hole. Drainage at their summer cottage: the easiest way to remove excess moisture. Construction of a cesspool

The problem of flooding and increased waterlogging of the soil is familiar to the owners of sites located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnant water after snow melt does not allow for proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

When is a drainage system needed?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and diverting ground, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents washing out, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.

Arrangement drainage system not needed in every area. In order to determine how badly your site needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and heavy rain. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

Drainage system helps to remove stagnant water from the site

If there is little visual confirmation, then a simple experiment can be carried out - using a hand drill or a conventional shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the pit and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

high occurrence of groundwater;
the site is located in an area with clay soil;
the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
falls out at the location of the site a large number of precipitation.

The presence of drainage contributes to the preservation of finishing and facing materials used for styling garden paths, finishing the basement and facade of the building.

Types of dehumidification systems

Drying systems land plots there is a great many. At the same time, in various sources, their classification can be very different from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages it is recommended to use the most simple and proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most effective system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of heavy rainfall and uneven snowmelt.

Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris

A surface drainage system is constructed over the area of the site, around the house and adjacent buildings, near garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subspecies:

Point - in some sources it is designated as local drainage. It is used to collect and divert water from a certain place on the site. The main area of application is drainage of areas under drains, near entrance doors and gates, in the area of containers and irrigation taps. Often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, providing a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grates and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will provide the most efficient work systems. If necessary, point and line drainage can be combined with the system described below.

deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where it is necessary to constantly drain the soil or lower the groundwater level. Drains are laid with observance of a slope in the direction of the flow of water, which enters the collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80-150 cm. In the case when it is necessary to divert water from the foundation of the building, the pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of the site with a certain step. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their laying and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, when constructing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil under the same conditions, the step between drains decreases to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths of laying can be seen in the table below. The information is taken from the book "Draining land for gardens" by A.M.Dumblyauskas.

Drainage depth, m	Distance between drains, m
Drainage depth, m	sandy soil	loamy soil	Clay soil
0,45	4,5–5,5	4–5	2–3
0,6	6,5–7,5	5–6,5	3–4
0,9	9–11	7–9	4–5,5
1,2	12–15	10–12	4,5–7
1,5	15,5–18	12–15	6,5–9
1,8	18–22	15–18	7–11

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the site is relatively flat, then to give a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter is observed.

When installing a drain of great length, it is necessary to observe minimum slope along the entire length of the drainage route. For example, for a drainage system with a length of 15 m, the minimum level difference between the start and end points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the declared slope standards. This will provide faster drainage, reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring out 1–2 cm.

Drainage at their summer cottage - the easiest way with instructions

In order to independently carry out drainage of the land plot through the drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase necessary materials, prepare a tool and a place to perform work.

Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Open surface drainage is one-stop solution for drainage of summer cottages small area. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can use the diagram below as a basis. It depicts a drainage route in the shape of a Christmas tree. The distance between the drains, as discussed above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system at their summer cottage

To carry out the work, you will need a shovel and bayonet shovel, tape measure, bubble level, hammer and sharp construction knife. As materials, it will be necessary to prepare gravel of a fraction of 20–40, geotextiles, an edged bar or a board 2–3 m long.

For the construction of surface drainage in a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, the water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more laborious and requires the ability to work with concrete mix.

Drainage of the site using deep drainage

Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining summer cottages and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective pavement around the building, concrete or slab paths. If necessary, their partial dismantling can be performed, but in general the structure will not suffer.

An example of a project for a drainage system in a suburban area

Deep drainage works include the following:

According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of the drainage pipes and determine the point of discharge of water, that is, the place from which the collected water will drain into the sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline should be below the freezing level of the soil. For the Northwestern region, this value is about 60–80 cm.
Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage
Taking into account the plan, a trench is excavated along the perimeter and area of the site with a depth of up to 1 m. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections trenches are combined into a single system, which is brought to the point of water discharge. After that, the trenches are dug with a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the runoff, the trenches are shed with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.
Foundation pit drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site
At the lowest point of the site, a place is arranged for the installation of a water intake or filtering drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clay soil types, it is better to install storage types of wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, both storage and filter wells can be used. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.
A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.
Fine-grained gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. Geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After that, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. Lays on gravel drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm.
In places where the drain turns, modular manholes are installed. The diameter and height of the well depend on the estimated volume of wastewater. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, use coupling, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before docking. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.
An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns
Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for operability. To do this, a large amount of water is drained through the drains. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can proceed to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
A 20–30 cm layer of gravel with a fraction of 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After that, drains with laid rubble are covered with geotextiles. A 10-15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured over the geotextile and carefully compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be covered with fertile soil or ordinary soil from the site.

Ways to drain a site without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnant water in the area are not always associated with high level ground water. Sometimes this is due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy rainfall. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, puddles and mold form on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil is one way to drain a site without drainage.

If, due to some circumstances, the installation of a drainage system is impossible, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods of draining the site, the most effective are the addition of a sufficient amount of fertile soil and the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m 3 of soil is enough.

The easiest way to drain the soil on the site

The arrangement of shallow trenches filled with rubble is the most in a simple way drainage of the suburban area. Despite the general simplicity, this method is very effective and is able to cope with a large amount of water formed during the melting of snow.

Work on the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of the site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be sprinkled with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under the turf layer. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery over the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a blockage in a drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology of laying drainage pipes is the main cause of stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnant water is not associated with blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not provide a constant and uniform discharge of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.

The easiest way to clean drain pipes is to use a steel cable to clean the drains. At one end of the cable there is a spiral nozzle, at the other - a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of blockage.

For cleaning pipes Ø110 mm and more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drain pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Further, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards the water drain. Usually, small accumulations of silt and foliage are pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to eliminate the blockage, then it will be necessary to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself site drainage

Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnation of water in the area are big problem, which affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that an excess of water can be dealt with with the help of a drainage system. Much worse if fresh water and it picks up moisture, and the arrangement of the well is impossible due to some circumstances.

A properly built cesspool has been functioning for years, absolutely not requiring any attention. However, over time, the efficiency of its work decreases and there comes a time when the filling of the sewage tank occurs very quickly. At first, of course, you can save yourself by calling a sewage machine to clean the sewer. When the interval between calls is reduced to several weeks, the understanding comes that the problem cannot be solved by simple pumping out. In the meantime, there are several effective methods ranging from fairly simple to radical ones, the use of which will make the sewer system work with the same force.

Reasons for fast filling

During operation cesspool, the efficiency of its drainage layer decreases with time

When equipping a cesspool, a leaky structure with a drainage layer at the bottom is usually used. long time drainage performed its functions, diverting liquid waste into the ground. Over time, the gaps between its elements became clogged with fat residues, food residues, and simply silt. Spontaneous sealing of the bottom of the pit occurred. As a result of this, wastewater does not have access to the soil layer and simply fills the tank, and since a sewage pit is usually built based on a three-day drain volume, its volume is filled very quickly.

Another reason for poor performance sewer system it may be freezing winter time. Naturally, draining water onto frozen ground will be impossible.

For the normal functioning of the sewerage system in winter, it is necessary to insulate the sewage well

With a decrease in the efficiency of the cesspool, the following signs are observed:

The walls of the waste sewer tank are covered with fatty deposits, which are quite problematic to wash off;
Accumulation of bottom sediment;
A fetid odor from the pit;
The time to fill the cesspool is reduced to a week or less.

For the normal functioning of the sewerage system, it is necessary to properly clean the cesspool and restore its performance.

Sludge removal

Silting of the bottom of the cesspool

The main reason why the normal operation of the sewage tank is blocked is the silting of the bottom. You can overcome this problem in the following way:

First of all, it is required to pump out sewage using a sewage machine. In order to remove deposits from the bottom of the pit as much as possible, it is necessary to drain the sewage from the machine under pressure. Wherein upper layer silt deposits will be eroded and pumped out by the sewer again.

You can mix the bottom sediment well with the help of a long pole with an element in the form of a fungus at its end.

Pour bottom residue clean water. So they will be further liquefied.
Add special biological preparations containing bacteria directly into the pit or through the sewerage system. The fact is that bottom sediments are food for many types of microorganisms. After processing, there will be very little solid residue, because the main part of the sludge will turn into a liquid that will successfully go into the soil. It is best to add the biopreparation directly into the pit, splashing it on the walls.

Biological products for septic tanks will help to cope with the problem of silting the bottom of the cesspool

As a result of the use of preparations containing bacteria, they achieve not only liquefaction of the solid sediment and a decrease in the amount of waste in the pit, but also the elimination of bad odors, as well as the restoration of the drainage system.

The positive side of the use of biological preparations is the production of organic substances that are absolutely harmless to humans and nature. They can be easily poured onto the ground.

Silt sediment can be pumped out not only with the help of special equipment, but also using household fecal or drainage pumps. The former are preferable for compacted sludge, since they have a knife in their design that grinds solid sediment for its normal passage through the hose. In the process of work, the release of sludge is best done in compost heap and further use it for fertilizer purposes.

Pumping out a cesspool with a drainage pump

Ways to improve efficiency

There are several ways to improve sewerage performance. The work can take from several hours to several days, depending on the degree of complexity.

Improvement of the cesspool to a septic tank

An old cesspool can be modified to a simple septic tank

The silting of the bottom of the cesspool can be easily turned to your advantage by using the resulting sealed container as the primary chamber of a simple septic tank. To move one step forward in cleaning Wastewater, you just need to install a filtration well a few meters from the first structure and make an overflow and ventilation system. When doing this work, follow the recommendations of experts:

You can dig a pit both with the help of earthmoving equipment and manually. The first option is preferable when arranging a septic tank away from buildings. In addition, the earth loosened by an excavator will absorb water much more efficiently. The second method is much cheaper and does not require access roads for construction vehicles. It should also be borne in mind that a manually dug pit will exactly repeat the outlines of the elements for strengthening the walls of the septic tank, so this method is much more effective in hard-to-reach places or near buildings.
When choosing materials, if possible, preference should be given to prefabricated concrete rings with perforations. They are durable and very effective. Their only drawback is their heavy weight, requiring installation with a crane. The way out of this situation is the manual digging of the rings by the method of gradual selection of soil from under their walls and internal space. Also, to build a filtration well, you can use brickwork with a gap or car tires from trucks.
The overflow pipe from the waste pit is installed half a meter below the level of the sewer sewer inlet. Usually use products with a diameter of 110 mm. The end of the pipe must be at least 20-25 cm from the inner wall of the filtration well. This requirement is especially important for red brick walls, since its surface will not be destroyed during the draining process. Note that it is better to use rejected burnt bricks. It perfectly copes with moisture and has a low cost.
When arranging a filtration well, one should not forget about sanitary standards and SNiP, requiring treatment facilities to be located no closer than 30m to a well or well, 1m from the border of a neighboring site and 3-5m from the nearest facility, depending on its number of storeys.

In the process of using an improved cesspool, you should follow the same rules as when working with septic tanks - regular use of biological products, the absence of chemical components in wastewater household chemicals, periodic removal of sludge.

Improvement of filtration parameters

Wall perforation concrete rings significantly increases the performance of the seepage well

Of course, after completely pumping out the sludge from the bottom of the cesspool, you can use the method of cleaning the drainage with biological products, but nothing will give such an effect as a complete replacement of the drainage layer. Of course, this work cannot be called pleasant, but if you manage to complete it or find a volunteer, you will get practically new sewer facility. To remove the old drainage, you can use a bucket with a rope and a regular shovel with a short stem. After the old filling is removed, the pit is deepened by 30-40 cm and covered with a 20-30 cm layer of fine gravel, and then a 30-40 cm layer of coarse gravel, fine rubble or broken brick.

If the walls of the cesspool are made of monolithic concrete rings, then perforations can be made in the two lower structural elements. To do this, it is better to use an electric hammer drill or impact drill and a diamond drill with a diameter of 50-80mm. The distance between adjacent holes, as well as between their rows, must be at least 25 cm. Otherwise, the strength of the structure may suffer.

Pit defrosting

In winter, a thick layer of snow will keep the cesspool from freezing.

In rare cases, the performance of the cesspool is reduced due to the freezing of waste. Often this is not at all due to poor thermal insulation or improper design. It happens that “General Frost” is to blame for all the troubles, and then you have to resort to drastic measures.

In order to not wait for the spring heat in order to defrost the pit, it is necessary to prepare an extension cord, a copper wire, a steel rod 20-30 cm long and a gripper.

When carrying out work related to electricity, be sure to follow the safety regulations. Wear electrician's gloves and shoes with thick rubber soles.

If the sewer pipe is frozen, then it is enough to wrap it with a copper conductor, the end of which is connected to the phase wire. After several hours, in the process of current flowing between copper and ground zero, the pipe will warm up and thaw. It is only important to prevent children and animals from entering the working area.

If the entire pit is frozen, then a steel rod is required to be driven into its center, a copper conductor is connected to it and phase voltage is applied. It is possible that it will take not several hours, but a whole day to thaw the pit, but this will happen in any case. After completing the work, it is necessary to turn off the voltage and only then remove the rod with wires.

The efficiency of its work in the future, as well as the frequency of cleaning the sewer system, will depend on the method of restoring the health of the cesspool. The use of biological preparations will help push back the call for a sewage truck to long term, it is only important to adhere to the rules for using a sewerage system with a bacterial cleaning method.

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Autonomous sewer systems or local treatment facilities, the same VOCs and septic tanks from many manufacturers are an excellent alternative for a summer cottage. They can be installed according different reasons: remoteness of the site from utilities, impossibility of connection, a certain benefit of the summer resident when using autonomous system and others. In the case of the purchase and installation of a septic tank in the country, there is whole line questions that we have dealt with previously. But the most important thing is not only the choice of VOC, but also its correct installation on the site and the removal of treated water. If you neglect the recommendations and requirements, the meaning of wastewater treatment in some cases is completely lost. Therefore, in addition to the correct choice of a septic tank, you need to think about how to make the right drainage well or aeration fields for a septic tank.

On this moment, on the topic we need, some articles have been written on the site, but today we will try to expand the knowledge of summer residents, and tell you how to make drainage for a septic tank with our own hands.

Why is septic tank drainage necessary?

Most septic tanks operate according to a fairly simple scheme, but it is optimal and effective only if correct installation and connection of all indoor units and elements of the system. During the processing of wastewater, a certain amount of wastewater accumulates in the septic tank, which settles to the bottom in the form of solid particles and turns into sludge. Perhaps this is due to the factors described by us in previous articles, where we talked about the work of septic tanks.

The settled part remains in the tank, and the purified water is discharged into the ground through the drainage system. It is worth noting that with high-quality water purification, it can reach a very high degree of purity, but a certain part of the pollution still remains in it. If the water is not purified, it will go into the ground in a rather undesirable form, as a result of which not only unpleasant odors develop in the vicinity of VOCs, but also the risk of diseases through infection with various infections increases.

There are also risks if such water is discharged incorrectly and is not absorbed into the ground at a certain depth. Of course, one can object to this, because there are many cases where water is diverted into ditches and rivers. But this is only until summer residents have paid huge fines for environmental pollution. Otherwise, given fact should be fixed and resolved, and the water from the septic tank should be as clean as possible.

Drainage systems for a septic tank

Drainage systems differ mainly in the ability to remove a certain volume of treated wastewater. Naturally, the system could be one, but the creation of several gave us the necessary choice. Therefore, we are confident that in the near future several more innovative methods of water drainage are expected, which will be severely criticized, as well as studied and tested by summer residents and craftsmen.

In fact, this is an alternative for each of us also in terms of finances. For example, if a drainage well can be made independently and from improvised materials, then for drainage tunnels it will be necessary to seriously invest in special materials for assembling this system. Naturally, all investments will bring a certain result, but this is clearly not necessary for summer residents who visit the site only a couple of times a week. So, let's look at all the drainage systems we have indicated for a septic tank in more detail, and also focus on the features of the systems and the recommendations of specialists.

Filtering drainage well

This structure is similar to a cesspool, but with certain differences. Treated effluents from the septic tank come here, which are additionally filtered and go into the ground.

The variant can be called best solution for giving. It is simple, inexpensive, copes with small volumes of water (for more serious volumes, it is better to use other facilities), and can be installed even on soils with partial problems.

Which is good, and the drainage well practically does not take up space, and therefore, if you have a small area, then there is nothing to worry about.

How to make a drainage well with your own hands?

There are no problems in the construction of a drainage well, and for summer residents who have been with us for a long time, they were engaged in even more serious construction, and even more so.

You need to dig a hole and properly equip the pit. There are several options for arranging such a well, and all of them are affordable.

You can immediately stop at a used brick, which is laid in a circle of a pit, near the walls. Perforations are left between the bricks, gaps without mortar, so that water can escape not only through the bottom, but also through the walls.

You can make the drainage well easier - install a reinforced concrete ring in the pit, in which you can also fill holes to drain water. A similar option is to install a large plastic barrel bottomless in a hole.

Don't waste your money on waterproofing. Here it is not needed, and on the contrary, it will suit us when the water evenly goes into the ground.
The drainage well is installed in the area of the site where there are no problems with a high level of groundwater. It is also recommended to set the depth of the structure below the clay layer.
For better water absorption, elimination of problems with heaving of the soil, as well as for maximum post-treatment, a layer of coarse sand and gravel, 20 cm each, is laid on the bottom of the well.
Perforation is made at a level of 50-80 cm from the bottom, water will also go through it.
So that the perforation does not silt up, expanded clay or the same gravel is sprinkled around the circumference of the installed barrel or concrete ring.
Be sure to think about the correct choice of location - away from residential buildings, a well, a well. Also, do not violate the law with your construction.
It is necessary to accurately calculate all the parameters of the structure, which must correspond to the amount of water discharged.
You will also need waterproofing and insulation of the upper part of the drainage well, high-quality ventilation.
It is important to install a removable cover on the well, which will give access to the inside.

Drainage system from old tires (video)

Do-it-yourself aeration fields

The principle of operation of filtration fields for a septic tank is the distribution of purified water over a certain area. Properly made aeration fields clean up wastewater, and according to some information, by another 20-40%. This is very good result, which means that you do not pollute the soil of your own summer cottage with a similar system.

Building filtering fields is quite simple. To do this, you need to dig several trenches, under the number of pipes-branches from the septic tank. Next, fill these trenches with sand and gravel, creating a 20 cm cushion over all of them. After that, install perforated pipes over the trenches, which will produce a distributed discharge of water.

There are many opinions of masters on installing drainage systems, but we have chosen the most significant of them:

For aeration fields, plastic perforated pipes are used, at the edge of each of which a ventilation outlet is necessarily installed.
To prevent perforation from silting, the pipes are wrapped with geotextiles, backfilled with gravel, and special load-bearing platforms are built.
The system is laid in an unused place in the country house so that it does not interfere with the plants with an increased amount of water in the territory, and the plants do not spoil the system with their roots.
The whole system is assembled with obligatory attention to the requirements of the septic tank and the discharge of water, as well as depending on the characteristics of the soil. By the way, the system is being built on sandy loams, loams and sandstones, always below the freezing level.
For laying pipes, the same slope is selected and set, for the correct distribution of water.

drainage tunnels

Drainage tunnels or blocks are already newer and modern system, which is intended for cottages and recreation areas with a larger format. The thing is that for this replacement, the filtering fields no longer need a separate place with mandatory requirements.

Due to the characteristics of the prefabricated system, over the drainage tunnels, you can even install a gazebo, a parking lot in the country, deploy an original landscape structure, the same rockery.

But it is immediately worth noting that along with the advantages of the system in terms of quality of work, strength and durability, its cost should also be immediately considered. It seems average and acceptable, but for many it can also be a serious cut from the budget. Therefore, when studying the possibility of installing filtration tunnels in the country, immediately pay attention to the price.

Advantages of the drainage tunnel system

We can say that this is a fairly durable system that is installed once and for many years.
The overall design has increased strength, due to which the territory on top of the system can be used to good use.
Truly improved performance so you don't have to worry about the number of resets.

Few have worked with drainage tunnels, as this system is not suitable for everyone in terms of costs. More often, drainage wells or even just cesspools are installed instead of a septic tank. But if you want to install just such a system on the site, then we will give you some tips:

It is highly desirable to install drainage tunnels to a greater depth. Often this happens as follows - a trench is dug with dimensions for the module, plus 40-50 cm on each side. The depth of the pit is about 2 m. 50 cm of sand are laid on its bottom, then 30 cm of rubble, and only then the module is installed, preferably on an already compacted surface.
Modules are installed on finished pillow and are connected, both among themselves and with the conclusions from the septic tank.
To prevent perforation from silting up, the modules are covered with geotextiles.
Further, the system is sprinkled with rubble, and ventilation outlets are installed in special holes.
It remains only to add a layer to the level of the soil. This is done with a mixture of earth and sand. Also, in many cases, in order to make the surface exploitable, a geogrid is laid, which we talked about in several articles on the site.

We would like to note the fact that this information is general and may partially change when choosing a particular system, as well as in combination with a septic tank installed in the country. It is highly desirable to consult on the choice of drainage for a septic tank and with specialists at the place of purchase of VOCs, because each treatment plant has its own characteristics.

Source: DachaDecor.ru

What are drainage holes for?

Device of drainage ditches

Requirements

Pit volume

Excavation

brick walls

Walls made of concrete rings

How to make a drainage hole

What is a cesspool

Types of cesspools

Pit made of concrete rings without a bottom

Cesspool device

The location of the cesspool

Construction of a cesspool

Sealed cesspool

Floor installation

Source: septikman.ru

Drainage pit: how to do it right

In every private household with a personal plot, there is an urgent need for processing, purification and disposal of a large amount of various liquids. Effluent comes from treatment facilities such as septic tanks, is collected by storm sewers, and is formed after snow melts. A drainage pit is used to distribute water directed to the ground.

What are drainage holes for?

A drainage pit is intended for partial cleaning and distribution of liquid in the soil layer. High-lying groundwater and excess liquid that is generated by seasonal rains or snowmelt can sometimes create serious problems on the land. In addition, in the country or country house it is required to resolve the issue with the disposal of treated wastewater coming from the sewer system of local importance, for example, a septic tank. See also: “How to make drainage on the site with your own hands - do it right“.

The option with a simple discharge of liquid into a nearby local reservoir is not always possible, and it cannot be called acceptable from the point of view of ecology. A reasonable solution would be to direct the effluent to the drain for drain pit in the shape of a well. In this facility, waste liquid and water undergo additional treatment and are distributed into the ground.

To bring effluents into the drainage of the drain pit, they equip special ditches or supply them through a pipeline from a treatment device.

Device of drainage ditches

Drainage ditches are intended not only to redirect excess water into the drainage pit, but also to partially divert it into the ground. When designing the location of the drainage system, take into account the relief of the land. If there is a difference in height, it is placed perpendicular to the slope. A similar configuration of ditches allows you to significantly lower the level of soil water in the area (read: “The device of the drainage ditch on the site“).

On a long slope, at least two drainage ditches are organized, they are connected to each other by bypass pipes. The last of the ditches, located at the bottom of the site, should have an exit to the drainage pit (read also: “How to properly drain around the house“). Since leaves and debris enter the drainage system with rain and melt water, it must be cleaned regularly. The design of the drainage ditch (see photo) has been constantly improved and now it is an effective structure, characterized by the simplicity of the device.

How to make drainage ditches on the site

First they make a project, and then they make markup on personal plot. At the next stage, trenches are dug, their depth can reach one meter.
Sifted sand is poured into the bottom of the ditch. You can build a drainage ditch either in a closed or open way. At closed version a pipe is laid on a sand cushion, having a perforation in its lower part. With the open method, the ditch is covered with a grate from above, and the walls strengthen it. In this work, plastic or reinforced concrete products are used.

In order to increase the degree of filtration of effluents passing through drainage ditches, a combined filter is arranged, which has a layer of sand in its lower part, on which geotextiles are laid. Then the structure is covered with gravel. The presence of geotextiles and a crushed stone layer prevents erosion of the sand cushion.
If the drainage ditch is laid in dense soil, its walls may not be strengthened, leaving it vertical. When the soil crumbles, it is recommended to make the walls of the ditch flat and certainly strengthen or use ready-made elements.

Concerning drainage ditches, equipped according to open type, then they are laid in small areas. In addition, they can only be used in the warm season.

The closed drainage system has more complex structure, it allows you to collect water from large areas and can function year-round. It is often made in the form of a Christmas tree, but it must be borne in mind that the cross section of pipes adjacent to the drainage pit should be larger than at their far ends.

Do-it-yourself construction of drainage pits-wells

A drainage pit is intended for water runoff in a summer cottage, its partial cleaning and distribution in the ground. An important point when arranging a well, it is necessary to calculate its required volume (for more details: “Arrangement of drainage wells on the site“). It must meet the capacity of the local treatment system and have a reserve for the disposal of melt and rainfall.

If necessary, more than one do-it-yourself drainage pit can be equipped on the site, but several.

Now they can be built using various ready-made structures:

use old steel barrels. They remove the bottom and lower end part;
drainage wells have been operated for a long time, for the construction of which reinforced concrete rings are used;
also used for the foundation of wells plastic products. This option is most acceptable, since their cost is small, they weigh a little, and besides this, plastic is not subject to corrosion.

Well device from old barrels

The current method is considered to be the device of a drainage pit from a previously used barrel. To supply liquid to it, you can use polypropylene pipes with a cross section of 5 centimeters. See also: “Do-it-yourself drainage wells - how to do it right“.

They will be enough to drain water, for example, from a small bath:

First, before making a drainage hole, they dig trenches for polypropylene pipes. To use the drainage system in winter, they must be laid below the freezing depth of the soil. Pipes should be additionally insulated with a layer of insulation or a heating cable should be laid along with them.
Next, dig a hole for a drainage well. It should be located below the freezing level of the soil, so its depth depends on the region where the site is located.
To form the required pipe slope angle, a layer of crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the trenches. Check the correctness of such work using the building level.
Placed in a well old barrel which is missing the top and bottom covers. Gravel is poured at the bottom. Also, using crushed stone, they equip the backfilling of the pit where the barrel is placed.

We create a cesspool with our own hands without pumping out

When building a private house away from the sewer, the question arises: how to organize the storage and disposal of wastewater. A cesspool is designed to solve this problem. There are two main types of sewage pits: a sealed (or waterproofed) pit and a pit without a bottom (drainage). The sealed pit does not let wastewater into its environment and is designed for areas with sandy soil, it is also designed for large (more than 1 cubic meter per day) flow volume.

To clean the waterproofed pit twice a month, a special sewage pumping machine is called. The cost of use is expensive. With a small amount of wastewater, a profitable solution would be to build a cesspool without a bottom; such a drainage pit does not require pumping. It is quite simple to design it with your own hands, which will save a lot of money.

Requirements

Sanitary standards for the placement of a cesspool drainage pit on the site

It is necessary to carefully consider the choice of the location of the cesspool, since in case of violation of sanitary standards, administrative liability is threatened. The pit should not be located outside the developer's land.

For its construction choose flat surface, with a hilly terrain, the lowlands of the site are chosen. It is desirable that the pit has access to a sewage machine for pumping out in case of overflow with waste. More precise placement instructions:

4-5 meters from a residential building.
3 meters from the fence, road, trees.
At least 25 meters from a well, well, spring.
30 meters from the nearest body of water.

Depending on the type of soil on which the waste pit is located, the regulated distance to sources of drinking water varies. When placed on sandy soils, it is allowed to build a cesspool no closer than 50 meters to the wells. With clay - from 20 meters.