Very rarely it turns out to cover the entire required surface with one sheet of drywall, and then there are joints that need to be sealed.
If you take a whole sheet of drywall, then it already has ready-made chamfers and you don’t need to do anything else. During the installation process, it becomes necessary to cut sheets and then it becomes necessary to chamfer them.
What is a bevel and why is it needed?
Many home craftsmen neglect such a stage of work as cutting the ends on the GKL, as they consider it unnecessary and unimportant. Experts recommend that you definitely cut the edge, and why you need to do this, let's try to figure it out in this article.
First, let's figure out what a bevel is. If you look in the dictionary, then a chamfer is an edge of drywall or any other material that is cut at an angle of 45-60 degrees.
Bevel appearance
If a chamfer is made on a sheet of drywall, then the seam is wider, and this allows you to fill it well with putty, this will prevent cracks from appearing later.
If you do not chamfer, then a small gap will remain between the straight ends of the drywall sheets, it will be difficult for the primer to get there, and in the process of sealing it, little putty will get into the gap, which will lead to the fact that after a while a crack may appear in this place.
It becomes clear that it is necessary to cut the edge on drywall. If there is no chamfer on the edge of the drywall, even the presence of a sickle tape on the seam does not guarantee that a crack will not appear in this place.
In order to avoid the appearance of cracks in the future, it is enough that the chamfer is 8-10 mm, so it will be well filled with primer and putty, and the joint will turn out to be strong and reliable.
How to make a bevel?
To perform these works, you will need the following list of tools:
- ruler;
- pencil;
- stationery knife.
Drywall must be laid on flat surface, it is necessary to ensure its reliable fixation so that in the process of performing work it does not move.
At the next stage, using a pencil and a ruler on drywall, approximately 8-10 mm from its edge, mark a line.
Drawing a line Now, with the help of a knife, which is located at an angle to the sheet, with a smooth movement we begin to cut off the edge of the sheet.
This should be done no more than 2/3 of the thickness of the sheet, the work is done with a sharp knife and a smooth movement. You can not make jerks or sawtooth movements, as in this case the edge will turn out to be uneven.
If you do everything smoothly, then during operation the chips will curl and you will get a flat inclined surface.
Cut off the edge of the sheet with a knife After you make the edge, you need to trim it, you can do this with fine sandpaper or with a special drywall planer.
Edge processing The same sequence of work will be with the remaining faces of the GKL, on which it is necessary to make an edge.
After you have made the edges and carried out the installation of drywall sheets, it is necessary to repair all joints with high quality. Before starting work, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the walls, seams from dust and debris, check the tightness of the sheets.
To seal the seams, you will need spatulas 80 and 250 mm wide, a container for putty, a grater or fine sandpaper and a brush for applying a primer.
To seal the seams, it is imperative to use a special reinforcing tape called sickle.
First, the seam is filled with the finished mixture, for which a spatula is used, the seam is completely filled and allowed to dry a little.
At the next stage, a reinforcing tape is applied and again, with a spatula, it is pressed into the putty. Now it remains to apply another layer on top of the tape, align it and wait until everything dries.
In order for the putty to hold tighter at the joint, it is recommended to impregnate it with a primer before this, after which it is necessary to let it dry completely and only then it will be possible to continue to carry out further work.
If you do not have a sickle, you can use ordinary fiberglass, but cut off a strip before starting work right size and knead it well with your hands so that it becomes soft.
You can not immediately stick the tape on the joint, and then fill it with putty. First you need to fill the joint with putty, which takes about 60%, then the tape is laid and the rest of the putty is applied.
Below is a table of the cost of tools and materials needed to work with drywall.
If you correctly make the edges on drywall sheets and seal the seams with high quality, you can not be afraid of cracks appearing in these places.
A chipboard end glued with a melamine edge looks just as good, and sometimes even better, compared to pasting on an inexpensive machine. Today we will figure out how to stick a melamine edge. See detailed instructions step by step.
This furniture end tape is made of papyrus paper impregnated with melamine resins for protection against external influences. The thickness of the furniture edge depends on the number of layers of paper used and is no more than 0.4 - 0.6 mm.
Edge width from 15 mm to 45 mm. The most popular sizes are 19/0.4(mm) and 40/0.4(mm).
What parts to glue?
Sidewalls of cabinets, cabinets, tables, as well as internal shelves of any home and office furniture are trimmed with melamine tape.
- On parts that have contact with the floor, but are not subjected to wet cleaning,
- Internal parts (shelves, internal parts drawers),
- Elements that will not be subjected to direct physical and mechanical stress.
Required tool:
- Bay with end tape,
- Iron,
- knife cutter,
- Wet rag or piece of felt
- Bar coated with sandpaper,
- Part holder.
Preparation
In order for the melamine end edge to stick qualitatively and evenly, you need an iron with a flat and thick sole. The best option There will be an iron with a Teflon coating. Also, its surface must be clean and smooth.
For convenient operation it is better to take a sharp knife with a thin handle or find an old knife blade and make a cutter out of it. You can use a spatula.
As a bar, an ordinary piece of chipboard with a glued sandpaper on one of the sides (grit from P120).
The melamine end edge comes pre-applied with a layer of adhesive. If it suddenly turns out that it does not have an adhesive layer, then it must be applied to the part.
For this operation, we also need a part holder, which can be made from the remnants of chipboard. It looks like this:
Let's start pasting
We unwind the edge tape from the bay (it is more convenient to unwind from the inside) and apply it to the end of the chipboard, first we leave a margin for trimming.
Its standard width is 21 mm, and chipboard -16 or 18, the margin remains for trimming and mashing. In order not to have to cut on both sides, it is better to immediately align it on one side, and on the other side it will overlap.
After we put it on, we begin to heat and iron it right along the end. Especially carefully you need to iron the edges of the ends.
Short parts can be ironed as a whole, and if the part is long, we alternately heat sections of 40 cm. After that, cool the end with a slightly damp cloth.
The temperature of the iron is adjusted according to the quality of our tape. It should glide quickly, easily and without friction, without scratching the surface or resisting movement.
About high-quality heating will be signaled by the uniform spreading of the glue under the edge. If overheated, bubbles will appear and it will deteriorate, therefore, monitor the temperature and do not overexpose the iron in one place.
If suddenly you spoil the edge, it will need to be replaced. With the help of heating with an iron and a knife, we remove the old one, clean the end of the glue residue and start all over again.
Qualitatively, the edge will stick only after the final cooling. ONLY after the end has completely cooled down, it will be possible to start trimming and processing edges.
In order to cut off the excess with high quality and evenly, the edge must first be bent with a finger, tapped on the edge and rubbed several times with a bar until we see a white chamfer (this is a paper backing). And you can start trimming the excess.
Video: how to glue a furniture edge on a chipboard
Another video from home master- do-it-yourself pasting of furniture edges:
(LDSP) the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, a furniture edge and a profile are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.
Types of furniture edges
One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the ugly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. Make it from different materials, respectively, it has different properties and price.
Paper or melamine edges
The cheapest option is melamine impregnated paper edges. Paper is taken with increased density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and pasted on papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layered (cheaper) and double-layered. To prevent the melamnov coating from being erased, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the reverse side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, it is only necessary to warm up this composition slightly and press it well against the end.
Paper or melamine edging is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture
The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm - the most common. There is no point in doing it thicker, and it will turn out expensive.
This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But its mechanical strength is very low - the edge is quickly worn out. Therefore, if it is used, then only on those surfaces that are not subjected to stress. For example, on the back of shelves, countertops, etc.
PVC
Received in Lately Polyvinyl chloride is widely used in the production of edges for furniture. From dyed to specific color mass, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth monophonic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it is easy to choose the right one.
Furniture edge PVC is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:
PVC furniture edge is available in different thicknesses and widths. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. Eat furniture PVC edge with applied adhesive composition, yes - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).
This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature regime: -5°C to +45°C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heating, you must be careful not to melt the polymer.
Made of ABS (ABS) plastic
This polymer does not contain heavy metals, is characterized by high strength and durability. The disadvantage can be considered a high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:
This type of edge can be matte, glossy, semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate different types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to work with and more durable in use.
Veneer edge
Veneer is a thin slice of wood that has been dyed and shaped into a ribbon. This furniture edge is used in production when pasting slices of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.
Veneer is not the most popular material for edging
Acrylic edge or 3D
Made from clear acrylic. On reverse side stripes are applied drawing. The polymer layer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. It is used in the manufacture of furniture in an unusual design.
Furniture edge profiles
You can finish the edge of furniture not only with an edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are mechanically fastened. They have two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).
A groove is milled under the T-shaped furniture profiles in the processed edge. A profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the corner look attractive. It is brought to perfect condition with fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum, with the same installation method they look very different, and the differences are significant.
In width, they are available for chipboard 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.
C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted on glue. They smear the edge, then put on plastic profile well pressed and fixed. These PVC profiles are soft and hard. Rigid ones bend worse and it is difficult to paste over curved edges with them. But they have great strength.
If you still need to "plant" a rigid C-shaped furniture profile in a bend, it is heated with a building hair dryer, then given the desired shape and fixed with masking tape until the glue dries.
We glue the furniture edge with our own hands
There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those who have glue applied on the back. In this case, you need an iron or a building hair dryer. The second is for sticking tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good all-purpose adhesive that can glue plastics and wood products and furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.
A little about how thick the edge to glue on what parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, you can not glue them at all, but basically they try to process them so that moisture is less absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or PVC 0.4 mm is glued to these edges. The edges of drawers (not facades) are also processed.
On the front ends of the facade and drawers, it is better to use PVC 2 mm, and on the visible sections of the shelves - PVC 1 mm. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.
How to glue the edging with glue yourself
The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge, it happens on PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine ones are easy to glue.
We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, a dense cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. For this purpose, a building hair dryer is also suitable. We put the iron on about “deuce”, while it is heated, cut off a piece of tape. Length - a couple of centimeters more than the workpiece.
We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it. Small pieces should hang down from both sides. We take an iron and, through a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, warming up until the glue melts. It is necessary to warm up evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.
The edge can be cut with a knife, both sharp and blunt side. Someone uses a regular metal ruler, someone is more comfortable with a stainless steel spatula.
So, we take the tool of your choice, cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are perfectly cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges are possible, if any. This guarantees good result in short time. Longer processing will last if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.
One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part must be even, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, because of which all defects are visible. Therefore, first go through the cuts with sandpaper, then carefully dedust, degrease. Only after that you can glue.
Edging with PVC tape (without adhesive on the reverse side)
With this method of self-gluing PVC edges, you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue, perform all the actions on the recommendation. For example, for Moment glue, it is necessary to apply on the surface and distribute the composition, wait 15 minutes, press the surfaces to be glued strongly.
Apply glue and wait - no problem. To firmly press the edge to the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a bar, you can take a construction grater, and also attach felt to its sole. IN last resort can be rolled up dense fabric in several layers and with this press the tape to the surface.
The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all the weight, pressing it against chipboard surfaces. The movements at the same time are stroking. So iron the entire edge, achieving a very snug fit. In this form, the part is left for a while - so that the glue "grabs". Then you can start processing the edge.
This describes the process of pasting the ends of chipboard with a conventional paper edge using a conventional iron.
For pasting, the most suitable is an ordinary Soviet-made iron with a temperature regulator.
In most cases and for most edges, the optimum temperature is set almost to the third division.
On short parts, up to 40 cm long, the entire length at once.
On long sections of 40-45 cm.
An indicator of a well-heated edge is the sagging of the edge under the iron, because. melted adhesive layer.
An insufficiently heated edge will not adhere well to the end and subsequently, if not immediately, will begin to peel off.
However, edge overheating is also undesirable. because the glue simply burns out and the edge does not stick.
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Immediately after the edge section has been warmed up, we smooth it to the end with a cloth (felt, etc.). The edge cools down quickly enough, so you should not smooth it for a long time. It’s better to immediately go to another section of it, thereby avoiding a trace of the transition. For the same reasons, when warming up the edge, we “carry” the iron along the edge without holding it in one place for too long. That is, we simply perform the same actions as when ironing clothes. The principle is the same. |
Now we move on to trimming the excess edges. First, cut off the ends.
Then on the plane.
We hold the knife as shown in the photo. It is desirable to direct the cutting movements towards the part, and not outwards. Because not all edges are of the same level of moisture and quality, therefore, on drier edges, when the knife is moved “outward”, ugly scuff marks of the front layer may form, which will be difficult to remove even with subsequent grouting with sandpaper.
Also, with the help of an iron, you can remove the previously glued edge.
1. heat the edge section, pry it off and separate it from the part ....
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G gypsum cardboard is an indispensable material for the repair of residential premises. It is used to install interior partitions, wall and ceiling insulation, underfloor sealing. When working with this material, there are often no problems, since it is elastic and easy to cut. However, during repairs, many do not take into account such a detail as the edge. Due to ignorance of the nuances while working with this material, people often have the question: “Is it necessary to cut the edge of drywall?” So, if it is not cut before installation, then soon after the repair the walls will become covered with cracks and begin to deform. Let's look at where a drywall sheet is used, why cut it and how to carry out the procedure.
What does drywall edge look like?
Due to its unique characteristics, this material is indispensable in a number of repair and structural works. So, drywall sheets are used for the following manipulations:
- Installation of interior partitions;
- Alignment of ceilings, walls;
- Warming of the house;
- The second drywall cutting technology is performed using a mounting knife. Mark on the sheet the line that you will cut, lay the material on a flat horizontal surface. If you are performing the procedure on a table, the incision line should extend beyond the tabletop so that it does not get damaged. After positioning the sheet, cut the sheet along the line you drew previously. To finally pry the cut pieces of drywall apart, carefully take one side along the break line, and tap it. To make the edge look neat, after trimming it should be processed with an electric planer.
