Chipboard is the most suitable material for the production of reliable and high-quality inexpensive furniture. In order to hide the not very aesthetically pleasing internal structure of the product, edging is performed on the end side - the installation of special decorative panels from melamine, PVC or others available types synthetic plastics.
Why else do they edge furniture?
In addition to the most obvious goal - to provide an elegant appearance, edging furniture performs several more equally important tasks:
Where should edging be done?
Furniture manufacturers often edge only the visible parts of the end surfaces. From the point of view of economy, this seems quite understandable, but taking into account the above facts, this approach can lead to certain problems - the protective edge must be present in all places where there is an open internal structure of the chipboard.
If you purchased furniture with unprotected edges, you can easily do their edging yourself at home. To do this, you do not need to have any special equipment - the edge can be glued with a regular iron.
Don’t be lazy to spend a few minutes on this operation - you will reliably protect yourself and your furniture and significantly extend its service life. Next, we will look in detail at how to properly glue the edge tape with your own hands.
Edge materials
Edging open furniture surfaces can be done using different decorative elements, differing in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.
How to glue an edge with an iron
In production, edging is done using tape with a clean base. The adhesive composition is applied to it during installation at a high temperature, ensuring the formation of a thin, even layer. In order to glue the edge, several rollers are used, pressing it tightly to the base of the chipboard. Then special cutters cut the tape to the size of the part, remove any remaining glue and base material, and sand the joint until a smooth and beautiful surface is obtained.
You can also glue the edge at home. To do this, you need to use a tape with already applied adhesive composition. Further, the process largely repeats industrial edging, since it is performed in a similar way:
You can learn more about the process of gluing edges on chipboard in the video below:
Gluing the U-shaped profile to the end of the chipboard is somewhat easier. We have already discussed this method earlier. This edge is much stronger than melamine, bends quite easily and reliably protects against damage.
The presence of microgaps between the U-profile edge and the front chipboard surface does not allow gluing it in the kitchen or bathroom, so edging with this material is mainly used for office furniture.
Edging chipboard, of course, is best done in the factory. At the factory, you can order tape from any materials, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Edging on a machine will ensure perfect evenness and precision of application. decorative cladding, but requires certain costs. If the main task is to meet a predetermined small budget, applying melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine acceptable quality and the minimum price.
Often, due to furniture design errors or other reasons, it is necessary to glue the edge onto the chipboard. Paste traditional plastic edge at home it is practically impossible, especially without special equipment. The melamine edge saves the day, fortunately there are enough colors. Let's see how melamine edge gluing is done and what it is all about.
Without going into detail about what the melamine edge itself is made of, we can say that it is a tape on which adhesive is applied. At the same time, the glue is thermal, so simply gluing it on will not work. At the same time, thanks to the thermal adhesive on the chipboard, it holds well.
Fig.1.
Before we begin to describe the process of gluing melamine edges, a few words about the necessary tool and preparing the end of the chipboard. To apply the melamine edge you will need a hair dryer, a knife and a pair of construction gloves.
Fig.2.
The end of the laminated chipboard must be clean and smooth, without sawdust and flaking parts. Otherwise, the edge will not stick to the chipboard, but will stick to it poorly. The best end is obtained after milling or sawing on a machine. The next photo will show an end of poor quality; there was simply nothing better at hand.
Fig.3.
The melamine edge sticker begins with a section from the main roll of the strip. required length or slightly longer than required. In this case, the end that will be glued first must be trimmed. This can be done with ordinary scissors.
Next, apply the edge to the end of the chipboard. It should be said that the melamine edge is available in a width of 20 mm, i.e. it is wider than a chipboard. Therefore, at this stage it is important to align it along one edge, as in the photo.
Fig.4.
Please note that on the other side of the chipboard, the edge protrudes. In the future it needs to be trimmed.
Fig.5.
Next comes the hairdryer. For gluing melamine edges, a temperature of 250 degrees is sufficient. The edge is heated with a hairdryer, thereby melting the glue. A characteristic sign that the glue has melted is the moment when the edge loses its curved shape after being in the roll and becomes straight. Then she simply presses against the end laminated chipboard by hand. This must be done with gloves, because... the edge is hot.
There are a few features worth mentioning.
Edge gluing should be done in a warm room, this will ensure that the glue hardens more slowly. Accordingly, there will be more time to correct the position.
The melamine edge should be heated not along its entire length, but along 20-30 cm. It’s easier to work this way, and the glue doesn’t have time to harden before the edge is pressed against the end of the chipboard. So, on average, a 60 cm long end is glued in 3 approaches. The first - the beginning of the edge is glued, the second - the middle part of the edge, the third - the end of the edge.
Do not forget that the temperature of the air from the hair dryer is about 250 degrees, so you need to work carefully and do not point the operating hair dryer at your hands or other objects.
Fig.6.
There are many options on the Internet on how to glue an edge. For example, heat it with an iron. In my opinion, this is not advisable. Sometimes, when overheated, the glue leaks out from under the edge, and most likely it can ruin the iron, and it costs more than a hair dryer. It is also suggested to cool the edge different ways. This is also not advisable, because at a room temperature of 25 degrees, the edge cools down before the glue hardens in a few seconds, and in my opinion, it is not advisable to come up with additional operations.
The last step is cutting the melamine edge.
Fig.7.
In this case, I cut it with the usual kitchen knife, there was simply nothing else at hand. The result is not the best. Good result gives a sharp knife with a thick blade, like a shoe knife. The knife should be positioned at an angle to the edge of about 30-45 degrees from the bottom side. Best result provides a special device for cutting melamine edges, but I personally was never able to purchase it.
In conclusion I will say one more thing interesting feature. As you can see in the photo, the edge cut has White color, that against the background of cherry color it doesn’t look very good. This can be eliminated using wood stain on water based. You just need to moisten a rag in the stain and wipe the cut with it, removing the excess. For example, for cherry-colored chipboard, a mahogany stain is well suited.
Everyone knows a fact that often occurs when edgebanding is the melting of PVC edges, especially for edges up to 1 mm thick.
There is a problem of wave-like formation on edges with a thickness of 2 mm after scraping, peeling of the edge from the part, lumpy edges of 0.4 mm, whitishness of the edges and many other problems.
It is necessary to understand what the reason is in each specific case more deeply than to attribute everything to the quality of the edges.
So first we should consider edge banding process, namely the reasons for the appearance of marriage on at this stage in detail, we are talking about using exclusively PVC edges.
The process consists of several stages:
Gluing
Trimming
Milling overhangs
Cycling
Polishing
Gluing PVC edges.
Regardless of the type of machine, edge gluing is done using melt glue.
The likelihood of marriage occurring at this stage is very high. In order to avoid problems, you must:
Carry out the most suitable settings by trial and experiment
Select a suitable hot melt adhesive, taking into account the type of machine and operating temperature
Take into account the parameters of laminated chipboard (humidity, friability)
The edge melts when glued.
If you use a feed speed of 2 - 5 m/min, you should apply a more heat-resistant edge, and it must be taken into account that permissible temperatures, declared by edge suppliers are reduced if the adhesive is applied directly to the tape and not to the part. We recommend changing operating temperature glue bath.
After gluing the 0.4 mm edges, surface roughness appears:
A very common problem, which is also not always related to the quality of the edges. As a rule, it consists in the incorrect selection of hot melt glue.
The fact is that the density of chipboard greatly affects the gluing process, and depending on this parameter, you need to choose the right hot melt adhesive. Lumpiness on the surface appears at a low density of chipboard with the simultaneous use of unfilled melts.
The problem can be corrected by using a filled adhesive with increased consumption. In this case, not only the bumpiness will disappear, but the bonding strength of the surfaces will also increase.
When gluing it forms uneven surface due to indentation of the chipboard structure:
This problem is easily solved. Simply move out the additional pressure rollers.
The seam between the edge and the end of the part is too noticeable.
When gluing PVC edges with a thickness of 1 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm or more, it is recommended to use an unfilled hot melt adhesive, then the seam will be as thin as possible and almost invisible, in addition, it is necessary to carefully select the tone of the glue to visually merge the adhesive seam of the edge and the chipboard.
The edge is melted on curved parts.
This problem is also worth looking at from the point of view of the type of equipment used and the type of adhesive.
So, for example, for machines manual type When the part moves around a stationary adhesive unit, it is recommended to use melts with a wide temperature range.
For equipment with automatic feeding When the workpiece moves around the gluing unit at a constant speed of 10 - 30 m/min, adhesives with a small temperature range can be used. Application polyurethane adhesives It is recommended that the adhesive unit be manually moved around the product and the adhesive is applied directly to the edge tape.
Overhang milling, scraping.
After removing the overhangs, a wavy end remains on the edge.
This problem occurs when the tool (cutter knives) is dull or the rotation speed is insufficient for uniform removal.
Increase the cutter speed and reduce the edge feed speed. The same thing can happen when scraping: a “wave” on the edge is formed if the scraper (knife) is not sharp enough.
There are chips on the edges of the edge.
Chips on a PVC edge after milling do not mean that the edge material is very hard or the chalk content is very high.
They may indicate that the rotation speed of the cutter is set incorrectly and the knives need to be adjusted or sharpened. Perhaps the problem is both.
Polishing.
In order to ensure that the edge is well polished and all remaining chips, glue, etc. are removed, we recommend polishing along the radius with a cloth polishing wheel and applying a release liquid to the surface of the chipboard.
Conclusion:
Based on the above, we recommend that when changing suppliers, you do not immediately attribute poor edgebanding to .
In order to make sure that the edge is not suitable, you need to check its use on several modes/machines, check whether the temperature and feed speed are set correctly, take into account the composition of the glue and much more.
Of course, the quality of the edges primarily affects the veneering process, based on many years of experience in the supply of edge tapes, we recommend that when choosing materials you base your choice not only on cost, but also on other characteristics.
So, in order not to spoil the product/part at the edge banding stage, you must:
Choose a reliable partner for the supply of edges
Pay attention to how long the importer has been working on the market
How many suppliers/factories does the importer have (to avoid quality differences from batch to batch).
We offer to solve your problems at the edgebanding stage.
You can, without reconfiguring the equipment, use the “LUX” edge, and save without loss of quality by using the “STANDARD” PVC edge. ().
We are happy to solve any problems that arise, and in case of a color change in the warehouse program/in production, we will accept a full refund.
We will be glad to become for you not just a supplier of edge materials, but a reliable partner who strives to help develop your business.
Hello dear friends!
As a rule, the melamine (paper) edge is self-adhesive and 0.5 mm thick.
Although, I believe that everything that can be cheaply ordered on the side should be ordered, freeing yourself from unnecessary routine work.
But there are still times when you have to do this procedure yourself.
In general, I do not recommend using melamine edges to process the ends of parts, since the savings are meager, and the quality of such a product will be low.
But sometimes you can glue PVC (but not thick one, so if its thickness is 2 mm, then special equipment will be needed for such an operation).
So, what do you need for gluing?
Firstly, you need special stops into which the part is inserted.
They are usually made from waste chipboards yourself (they can be clearly seen in the photographs).
At a minimum, there should be two of them, in case the part is large.
Secondly, you need an iron.
It should be heavy and on a spiral (old versions). In this case, he will hold for a long time high temperature(it is measured visually with a finger on which there is saliva).
Such irons can be bought at flea markets.
Warm it up and try it.
It should not burn the edge, but it should also melt the glue that is applied to its reverse side well.
The measure of all this, of course, is experience. You just need to try it a couple of times and everything will become clear.
Next, you need to have either a sharp knife, or a scalpel, or a razor, etc. They trim off the excess edge hanging from the edges of the part.
And the last thing you need is a block with small “knife” stuffed on it. The processed ends are smoothed with it.
This is done so that the glued edge cannot be accidentally torn off.
Yes, I forgot. You also need a piece of felt to press against the newly glued edge.
And the process itself is quite simple
The part is installed on the stop.
According to its size, a piece of the edge is broken off (cut off) (with a small margin) and placed on the desired edge.
After this, a heated iron is passed over it “under pressure”, while at the same time rubbing the glued part of the part with felt with force.
When the edge has “set”, it is cut with a knife.
This operation must be done correctly.
The blade of the knife should go along the plane of the part, thus evenly cutting off the protruding part of the edge.
If it goes at an angle to the plane of the part, it will constantly “cut” into the corner edge, and this will leave chips.
After the remains are cut off from the part, all edges along the edges of the part are rubbed down with a sandpaper.
If the part is , or with curves, then the situation is more complicated.
First, you need to process such a part with a router so that it has the correct edges, and only after that proceed to gluing.
But in this case, the whole procedure, of course, will be more complicated.
Therefore, I repeat: order these things “outside”.
That's all.
Furniture edges are a tape material that protects our lungs from toxic fumes when using interior items made of chipboard, MDF and laminated chipboard. Modern technologies, which are implemented in the manufacture of furniture, allow us to minimize the use of harmful components. However, it is still better to cover the ends with a special edge.
Currently, a wide variety of furniture edges are available to the consumer audience. Individual varieties differ according to the material of manufacture, installation method and cost. Among other things, each facing product has its own obvious pros and cons. Let's take a closer look at the edges.
Purpose
In addition to giving furniture aesthetic qualities, furniture edges help protect the ends of products made from chipboard, MDF, and other common materials from the harmful effects of moisture. It is through the ends that insects, microorganisms, and fungal spores penetrate into the inner layers of wood, which accelerate the process of decomposition of materials. Furniture edges make it possible to eliminate the above manifestations.
Areas of application
Furniture edges are successfully used for processing the following interior items:
- countertops, kitchen and office tables;
- top covers of mobile and side cabinets;
- sides and bottoms of cabinets;
- ends of drawers, cabinets.
Melamine edge
This self-adhesive furniture edge is facing material on paper based. Products in this category are treated with impregnations in the form of melamine resins. It is the latter that endows the edges with protective qualities.
Based on the number of layers of paper used in the production, multi-layer and single-layer melamine end tapes are distinguished.
If we talk about the advantages of edges in this category, first of all it is worth noting the widest range available options. Thanks to this, the consumer has the opportunity to select exactly the end tape, the shade and parameters of which most accurately correspond to the existing needs.
When gluing furniture, there is no need to use expensive equipment. For installation it is enough to use a regular household iron. Any housewife can cope with such a task.
The disadvantage of melamine tapes is their insignificant thickness (from 4 to 6 mm). This results in the inability of the material to withstand significant mechanical stress. Due to the paper structure, such edges do not effectively protect furniture ends from moisture penetration.
Furniture edging PVC
This type of end tape is much more durable and resistant to all kinds of external influences compared to the previous solution. The material is available in two versions - 2 and 4 mm thick. Thin tapes are usually used for decorative processing ends that remain in sight. 4 mm edges are applied to hidden surfaces where there is an increased risk of damage.
The installation of edges made of polyvinyl chloride requires the use of special machines. Therefore, furniture processing using such tapes is carried out only in production workshops.
Advantages of PVC edges:
- durability and wear resistance;
- effective protection of furniture ends from mechanical stress and moisture;
- resistance to acids, alkalis, fats and salt solutions;
- absolutely non-flammable.
As for the disadvantages of polyvinyl chloride edges, we can highlight the lack of possibility for independent processing of furniture ends in living conditions, as well as some difficulties in obtaining perfectly smooth, glossy surfaces.
ABS edge
ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) is an extremely durable, highly reliable facing material that does not contain chlorine. Therefore, edges made from this base are widely used in the furniture industry due to their safety.
ABS has a more pliable, soft structure compared to PVC. The material is easy to process, does not accumulate a static charge of electricity, and the cutting process is not hampered by the adhesion of small chips.
Advantages of ABS edges:
- preservation of the original, rich shade throughout the entire service life;
- the presence of a perfectly smooth surface;
- no toxic fumes during processing and heating.
The only drawback of ABS edges is their rather impressive cost in comparison with the same melamine products and polyvinyl chloride facing tapes.
Acrylic edge
What does such a furniture edge look like? Photo similar products indicates their multilayer structure. Bottom contains decorative finishing or a drawing. Upper layer presented in the form. Thanks to this structure, a three-dimensional image effect is created. Exactly because of this reason acrylic products also called 3D edges.
Among the advantages of such products are: high level rigidity and resistance to mechanical stress. Acrylic edges successfully protect the ends of furniture from scratches, impacts and chips. The main disadvantage here is the high price.
Softforming and postforming edge
Considering furniture edges and what materials there are for this purpose, one cannot help but note the options for surface treatment using softforming and postforming. These solutions make it possible to provide absolute tightness to the ends of furniture, table tops and facades.
In general, there is no significant difference in the characteristics of these materials. The only difference is the possibility of laminating relief surfaces that have been processed with softforming edges.
How to glue furniture edges?
The use of melamine edges allows you to independently process furniture ends at home. The material is placed on glue and then fixed using a hot iron. This solution is quite acceptable if it is necessary to perform quick, relatively cheap repairs of old furniture.
The work is carried out in several stages:
- To begin with, any old one is warmed up. In addition to it, you need a knife, a small fraction, and a rag.
- The edge is trimmed with a margin of several centimeters. The piece is applied to the furniture end, pre-treated with glue, and then heated with an iron.
- After melting the glue, the edge tape is pressed tightly with a rag.
- Once the material is securely fixed to the surface, all excess is cut off. First, the end parts are removed and only then the longitudinal parts.
- Finally it executes finishing surfaces with sandpaper.
To ensure ease of work, it is advisable to find a knife with a sharp blade that will not leave burrs. During the cutting process, you must be careful not to remove excess.
Using the same iron, it is convenient to clean surfaces from the remnants of old edge tape. To do this, just warm up the surface of the device, walk along the end and pry off the unnecessary tape with a spatula or knife.
Eventually
If main task When making furniture, it is important to obtain the highest quality result; it is better to resort to factory edging of the ends. When the only thing on the agenda is redecorating old interior items, you can limit yourself to gluing the surfaces yourself with colored tapes. Fortunately, today there is a wide variety of edges on sale that imitate natural materials and are distinguished by a whole host of original shades.
