Boards and timber are one of the main building materials. But not everyone has the financial means to buy ready-made boards. In such situations, one of the ways out is to independently harvest wood on a plot taken from the forestry.
The advantage of a chainsaw as a tool for sawing logs
You can saw a log using a sawmill, a gas or electric saw, and accessories. When choosing one of these tools, the scope of the work ahead should be taken into account. The cost of the cheapest stationary sawmill, together with all components, is 150 thousand rubles. A chainsaw is much cheaper. It is more convenient than an electric saw for the following reasons:
- It does not require electricity to operate the tool - this makes it possible to use the chainsaw on the plots.
- It is more powerful than the electric saw.
- Starts smoothly and allows you to conveniently adjust the speed, which reduces the likelihood of chain breaks.
- The operation of the inertial brake is faster than that of an electric saw.
- Long working time without interruption - up to one hour.
- Can be used in high humidity conditions.
Types of working nozzles
When sawing logs with a chainsaw, various nozzles are used.
- Nozzle for longitudinal cutting. It is used for sawing logs along, the process takes place in a horizontal position. After work, the master receives the same thickness of the product. Finished materials are subjected to a drying process, after which the boards are used in construction. By appearance the device is a frame small sizes, it is attached to the tire on each side.
- Drum debarker (rounder). With the help of such a nozzle it is easy to dissolve the log, it works due to the V-belt transmission. It is attached to the belts on both sides, for this purpose special pulleys are used. The speed of rotation of the shaft depends on the size of the pulleys, so the performance of the nozzle is easy to change. This technology forces the master to carefully monitor each stage of the process, some specialists use an assistant during this cut. But this option requires increased security measures.
- Sawing with a lightweight nozzle. Method is no different high performance but is used quite often. The element is fastened on one side, but the workpieces are slightly uneven. Such materials are necessary for the construction of sheds or fences.
Features of sawing with a homemade tool
You can easily cut a log into boards with the help of a self-made tool. It's easy to make. To do this, follow these steps:
- As a support, you need to use a frame from school desk or a pipe with a cross section in the form of a square, its optimal size is 20x20, and more is allowed.
- It is necessary to build two clamps, mount a cross member with two holes for the tie bolts at one end, and make a protrusion for the tire in the middle.
- For longitudinal sawing of a log into boards, you need to make a support frame, its width should be seven to eight centimeters less than the length.
- Then two parts ten centimeters long are welded to both sides, holes are made for the bolts, a handle is attached in the middle for ease of operation.
- Then you need to insert the clamps into the grooves, install the tire, carefully fix everything.
To Work with homemade tool it’s not difficult, this will require goats, they will serve as a support. In addition, you need to prepare a metal rail or board to use it as a guide. A log is laid from below, the required height for work is set.
The procedure for performing preparatory work
To cut a log lengthwise, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:
- Take two straight boards and attach one to the other at a right angle. The result is a strong leading ruler.
- To maintain the manufactured ruler, you need to make stops from the boards.
- The movement of the trunks must be performed using a tilter.
- The log should be placed on a comfortable base.
- On the chainsaw tire using nuts, you need to fix the frame.
- The supports of the leading ruler must be attached to the ends of the log, checking the horizontal position with a level.
- Self-tapping screws must be used to fix all brackets and structural elements. Nails are not suitable for these purposes, since it is difficult to remove them in the future without causing damage to structural details.
- The leading ruler must be attached to the supports with brackets and its height adjusted, taking into account that the cut will not go along it, but approximately one centimeter higher.
- The log must be rotated and the second board must be fixed in such a way that it rests on the ground and supports the log.
The procedure for performing basic work
- Now you need to start the chainsaw and make the first cut.
- Next, you need to free the log from the stops and boards and attach the leading ruler on the cut surface of the log in the direction of the next cut. The ruler is fastened directly to the surface or to the ends of the log using supports. The second cut is made perpendicular to the first cut.
- The log must be turned and fixed with a board point-blank to the ground.
- A guide ruler is not required to perform the following steps. One of the cut sides serves as a guide.
- It is necessary to adjust the thickness of the cut on the frame and saw off the log from the other side in such a way that you get a bar with bark remaining on only one side.
- This beam must be turned over and fixed in such a way that the fixing point of the fixing board is as low as possible.
- Then it is necessary to adjust the frame to the required thickness of the board and saw the timber into boards.
Safety rules when performing work
- Should not be used circular saw without protective cover.
- Wear earmuffs, gloves, goggles, heavy clothing and a respirator.
- Do not pour fuel into the hot tank of the tool, you need to wait until it cools down.
- Children must not be allowed in the work area.
- It is necessary to start the tool on the ground with the chain brake applied, which must be released just before starting to cut.
- You should always have a first aid kit on hand.
- When working, you need to hold the chainsaw by the handle of the arc, moving it forward along the guide. Do not press hard on the chainsaw - it should move freely.
- Right-handers should place the log on their right side, left-handers on their left.
Your band sawmill installed and made all the necessary settings? So it's time to proceed directly to the sawing process itself. To really get quality material, it is necessary to correctly install the log and fix it with special clamps.
From correct calculation the amount and type of material you want to get from this log also depends on the quality.
Having gained experience in the future, one glance at the log will be enough, and you will already know how much and what kind of material can be obtained from it. Learn to accurately determine where the top is and where the butt of the log is. The butt, as a rule, is larger in diameter than the top. And this largely affects the thickness of the slab.
How to calculate a log
So, you have measured the diameter of the log, and it is measured from the top. We calculate the approximate amount of material according to the diameter and proceed to further actions.
Firstly.
We pay attention to all the bends and bulges of the log - a perfectly even trunk is rare. Therefore, we try to turn it so as to get as little waste as possible from it, such as slabs. When the log is laid and fixed, it is worth making sure that it passes freely between the guide rollers.
Set the size on the ruler of the sawmill according to the diameter, and to this size add the greatest height of the bulge of the log. This is that bulge that is higher than the diameter of the top or narrowest part of the log.
Using a regular tape measure, measure the height of the highest part, and from this size you start counting the dimensions required material, taking into account the size of the cut, which is from 2 to 5 mm.
Secondly.
As soon as the width of the cut reaches the required size, and the remaining height of the log has reached right size, it is flipped. That is, if you saw a beam, for example, at 150, then both the width of the cut and the height of the rest of the log should correspond to this value, even be larger, taking into account the removal of the slab.
To do this, after turning the log over, start the calculation from the final size to the full use of the log height, but do not forget to take into account the size of the cut, which, as we already know, is from 2 to 5 mm.
For example - you have a log on the flyover that you cut to a size of 260 mm. Let's flip the log and continue.
The end result we want to achieve is a gun carriage with a thickness of 150 mm. Further, in a simple way, considering that 260 mm-150 mm \u003d 110 mm. We get as much as 110 mm thick additional material. And that is exactly what needs to be calculated.
We take this additional size and calculate, in order to obtain a chopping block, which has a size of 50 mm, 110-50=60, do not forget the cut, and in our case it is 2 mm, 60-2=58 mm, then the gap, equal to 25 mm, 58 -25-2=31 mm, slab 20 mm, 31-20-2=9 mm.
As you can see, from our calculations, it turns out 9 mm slab, 20 mm slab, 25 mm cleft and 50 mm chopping block. And the final size will be 150 mm.
Possible mistakes
As you can see, there is nothing complicated here. Often, inexperienced sawmillers make a mistake in the calculations when they start counting from zero. For example, if the final size of the material is 150 mm, then there is no need to add 2 mm to the cut to it, otherwise it will turn out like this 150 + 2 = 152. There should not be such an error, the cut is calculated only between the material, for example, a 50 mm board and 150 mm carriage, we obtain as described above, 150 + 50 + 2 \u003d 202 mm.
If necessary, to obtain edged material, turn the log 90 degrees and perform the same manipulations that are described above.
So you sawed your first log, look at the quality of the material and the accuracy of the dimensions. Make sure your calculations are correct. The main mistake when calculating, it happens that they forget to take into account the size of the cut. Try to take into account this fact. And don't make those mistakes.
In the future, when you gain experience, the calculation will take place automatically in your head, it will be enough to look at the log.
We are confident that everything will work out for you, we wish you success in your work.
[email protected] 01-08-2010 15:19
Hello everyone!!! Comrades, please, provide Help with this trick: I bought a Husqvarna 137 chainsaw. For all sorts of different country needs. Here, not long before, I had to cut the railroad ties. I cut a dozen and ...... away we go, the chain either tightens or loosens by itself, jumping off the tire. I adjusted the tension regularly, cleaned the tire and saw. The chain has blunted. Upon closer inspection, I find out that the tire has darkened around the edges! Sparks are visible when the chain is moving. There is oil in the sawdust, but somehow not enough, or something. I sin on the lack of chain lubrication. When buying, it was recommended to fill in any oil, except for mining, filled in the semi-synthetic from BP, which was left over from the replacement in the car. Maybe screwed up here? The saw is very much needed in the coming holidays. What recommendations would you recommend?
Z.Y. before this saw, I saw them only in pictures and on TV!
kaizer2007 01-08-2010 15:26
[email protected] 01-08-2010 16:51
First of all, if the chain is set on fire and it becomes dull, change it.
The chain has darkened noticeably. Sharpening will not save the "patient"?
Mikhai 01-08-2010 17:15
Sharpening will not save the "patient"?
[email protected] 01-08-2010 17:24
No. Only a replacement. Better with a tire.
However! I'd like a reason understand that there is still work to be done. God bless him, once you can change the tire with the chain, but every weekend, it’s cool to get it. Still, can you tell me at least an approximate reason for such an expense of tires with chains? Not that oil?
kaizer2007 01-08-2010 18:02
quote: Originally posted by [email protected]:
However! I would understand the reason, there is still such work to be done. God bless him, once you can change the tire with the chain, but every weekend, it’s cool to get it. Still, can you tell me at least an approximate reason for such an expense of tires with chains? Not that oil?
More like a tree.
Each chain, tire is designed for a certain hardness of the wood species.
They went too far with sawing.
I will express my opinion on the account of replacing the tire - it is possible to replace the corresponding
chains - try sawing, if it's not so good, then change the tire.
Before replacing - go to the manufacturer's website - additional information will also help in the future.
[email protected] 01-08-2010 18:09
quote: Originally posted by kaizer2007:
More like a tree.
Yes, it's definitely not the same tree. Sleepers in creosote, though old. Okay thanks, I'm going to fpoisk now.
Mikhai 01-08-2010 20:24
quote: Originally posted by [email protected]:
Sleepers in creosote, though old.
One little advice: soak the tire in kerosene, rinse, dry and be sure to regularly stuff the sprocket bearing with lithol (there are two tiny holes. It’s convenient with a syringe without a needle).
[email protected] 01-08-2010 20:47
quote: Originally posted by Mikhai:
If I'm not mistaken, then the manual says that old trees and deadwood contribute to the speedy failure of both the chain and the tire.
Yes, I read it, but there is no way out. Thanks for the advice! Kerosene (or rather, I cleaned it with Vedeshka, everything is not so bad with the tire. Black traces are more likely from creosote, washed off with a mixture of gasoline and Vedeshka. I'm not special, but nothing suspicious was found anymore, I think it will live on. It's worse with the chain, the verdict is the same, change. I thought to find a chain more resistant to wear, for my case, but on the official website there is no sensible information, as always.
sergeant 01-08-2010 22:41
need a chain with carbide teeth.
It costs like a small plane, but it works for a long time.
quote: not long before I had to saw the railroad ties.
for yourself or for money?
if you imagine, well, they try to drown them immediately and in the nearest swamp.
if for money, the chela must be put in the conditions that the purchase of a new chain and tire is behind him. anyway.
otherwise, let him go drowning in a swamp for that kind of money ...
[email protected] 01-08-2010 23:24
for yourself or for money?
No, not for myself and not for money. I help my parents, there is little construction there. I’m building something like a barn in such a way that I can’t ask anyone, except myself, for their sleepers, to drown in a swamp, for obvious reasons. Of course, all this does not justify the smacking of the saw, which costs more than these sleepers. but they decided, and it is not customary for us to argue. Naturally, there is simply no one to demand compensation from, except for oneself.
quote: Originally posted by Serjant:
and sharpen the usual chain periodically.
Sharpening can’t fix things, I’ll look for a chain with tungsten carbide, I won’t find it, I’ll buy a couple of simple ones, where to go?
sergeant 01-08-2010 23:43
quote: No, not for myself and not for money. I help my parents, there is little construction there.
Throw these sleepers out of the area altogether. and the faster the better.
1. stink. Always. under any conditions.
2. the smell never disappears and nothing.
3. poisonous impregnation of sleepers will never add health to anyone. (unless you are going to speed up the process of digging under 7 feet underground)
4. stink.
in the presence of benzukha, it is a trifling matter to mow an aspen or a bludgeon in the forest, and in the presence of a second eagle like you, dragging aspens the size of a sleeper is not a matter of hitting a recumbent.
[email protected] 02-08-2010 12:24
quote: Originally posted by Serjant:
PS. drank nothing to do with it. we think with our heads, there is no need to let sleepers into construction, especially for ourselves and loved ones.
It's too late to drink Borjomi You can't change old people, but you'll think of something with poison. The premises are not residential, just open sleepers will not remain, there are plans and experience in isolating creosote.
Monolit-kbf 02-08-2010 08:37
quote: Originally posted by Serjant:
and forget about the sleepers how about building material. forget it at all. poisonous rubbish and dirty tricks.
I completely agree. In cold, especially in frosty weather, creosote does not smell and does not evaporate, but in the heat ... Working as a communications electrician, I worked on creosote supports quite a bit.
1\2 off. A comrade complained at one time that the rats in the barn with chickens got it. And one day he piled sawn logs from creosote supports in this shed. The rats are gone. The chickens are dead too.
In the section on the question of how to cut a reinforced concrete sleeper? I want to make a foundation, but the sleepers are long and I need to do a dressing, how to break them? given by the author get through The best answer is The diamond disc can be cut without problems. The idea is smear, for the sole it is the most, BUT .... There are a number of nuances. J. b. sleepers have prestressed fittings with a diameter of 3mm. , about 40 bars. If the sleeper will work in the gurunt, then the reinforcing bar can quickly rot and the sleeper will lose its properties, concrete without reinforcement does not work for bending. The sleepers work on sand and gravel preparation, i.e. on the railway. embankments where there is no impact ground water, so they live on a piece of iron for a long time. In general, if you use sleepers, you need to create them comfortable conditions, for example, to make drainage, and good waterproofing, better pasting, to get rid of the capillary movement of moisture. According to the rules, foundations are not reinforced with reinforcement less than 12mm. in diameter.
Answer from 22 answers[guru]
Hello! Here is a selection of topics with answers to your question: how to cut a reinforced concrete sleeper? I want to make a foundation, but the sleepers are long and I need to do a dressing, how to break them?
Answer from European[newbie]
sit on it
Answer from Sleepy[guru]
They break with a sledgehammer - with 2 hits. You will saw off iron with a grinder
Answer from Alexander Schefer[guru]
You take an ISC 633 saw with a diamond chain and saw off. Delov something.
Answer from Uncle from the Future...[guru]
Well, if it’s a grinder, then a diamond for w / w. checked. do not burn in concrete on reinforcement
Answer from Yotary Plinth[guru]
With a powerful grinder and a cutting abrasive wheel for concrete ... it works together with reinforcement ...
