Heaps the basement with groundwater what to do. Water in the basement: causes, consequences, how to prevent it. Flooding during dry weather

This question, of course, the owners of private houses are asked in the spring, during the period of snowmelt. Radical owners stop using the cellar. The more "advanced" ones are unwilling to come to terms with the "inevitable" laws of nature. And rightly so: the elimination of water in the basement is possible. Moreover, modern technologies get rid of the problem basement water forever.

Don't skimp. It’s easier (and, in the end, cheaper) to build a solid basement the first time than to redo it endlessly later. Therefore, it is immediately worth thoroughly sealing the walls of the foundation and diverting water from it. If water still seeps into the basement, get rid of it as soon as possible to keep the cellar dry.

Of course, it is easier to prevent a problem than to solve it. A prudent owner, already during the construction of a house, will certainly take care of a reasonable organization drainage system and impeccable waterproofing of basements. The drainage system will help excess moisture go deep into the soil and not come into contact with the cellar, and basement water so it won't be a huge problem.
But do not be discouraged if this has not been done. For each case, experts will offer the best option problem solving. There are no dead ends. For example, drainage channels can be placed around the perimeter of the basement of an already erected house. And, if possible, arrange them inside the cellar. To do this, a raised floor is usually used.

What is the problem, basement water can be seen in this video

basement water video

Basement water. Sealing foundation walls

By impregnating the soil around the foundation, water creates hydrostatic pressure that guides it through all the defects and joints of the foundation. Coating waterproofing become the first line of defense.
Among the compositions intended for this, the most common are materials containing bitumen applied to the foundation from the outside. Bitom reduces the porosity of concrete, but later loses its elasticity and becomes more brittle, which leads to cracks. Various plasticizers improve the situation, but their protection will be short-lived. Many developers prefer these coatings for their low cost, but consumers should be careful: the validity of such compounds is about 5-6 years.

It is worth saying that the modern market also offers customers hot mastics with bases of oil bitumen and low molecular weight polypropylene and polyethylene. Materials are heated before use. Their operational characteristics (elasticity, gluing properties, heat resistance) are higher.
Rigid polystyrene foam is effective for maintaining the integrity of the coating when backfilling the foundation. This material is stable, durable and resistant to microorganisms in the soil. The expanded polystyrene plate contributes to the thermal break between the foundation and the backfilled soil. Although manufacturers claim that today's highly elastic coatings do not need protection, one more insulation of the foundation walls should not be abandoned.
Before applying a coating to concrete, it is worth cleaning the surface. It is also necessary to correctly determine the height of the soil level after excavation is completed, and this indicator must be taken into account when applying the coating. Incorrectly defined height will result in part of the unsealed wall under the backfill. The inevitable shrinkage cracks in the foundation will eventually lead to leakage.

The waterproof coating will be replaced by geocomposite (draining core, filter and membranes) drainage mats attached to the walls of the foundation.
The problem with the use of such polymeric materials is that without effective drainage of the foundation footing, hydrostatic water pressure will push moisture up between the wall and the mats. With this option, water will seep through any crack in the foundation wall.
Summing up the intermediate result on materials for waterproofing walls, it is worth noting: the most best coverage will not allow water to penetrate the walls, but will not protect against the accumulation of moisture around the base of the foundation. That is, drainage is necessary.

Sand and gravel - cleanliness in drainage pipes

To keep the basement dry, water must be drained away from the house. The main element of the drainage system can be an ordinary PVC pipe 0100 mm. All because special pipe with perforated slots, it is difficult to lay straight, and any mistake in laying will cause clogging of the system and poor flow. In addition, the slots clog quickly. In an ordinary pipe, it will not be difficult to drill two rows of holes in 012 mm. Several layers of filter cloth wrapped around the pipe will prevent the pipe from silting up.
Work on the drainage of water begins with digging a trench to the base of the foundation. Then the filter fabric is unwound and placed with its edges on the ground along the side trench walls.
Gravel is poured over the fabric, it is leveled, and then, with a slight slope towards the exhaust pipe, it is laid PVC pipe. At this stage, it is worth connecting the water inlets located on the surface with the drainage pipes of the foundation sole with vertical risers. Later, the gratings of the water intakes are filled with gravel so that they are not clogged with leaves.
Gravel is poured over the pipe, its level should not reach the upper edge of the sole about 20 cm. The stones are covered with a filter cloth to hold it, several stones or sand shovels are used. For slower clogging of the filter cloth, about 15 cm of coarse sand is poured over it. As a result, a stable and efficient operation of the drainage system (sand protects the fabric, and the fabric protects the stone). With this approach basement water , is unlikely to be your problem. External drains of the foundation sole should be laid with a slope of 2-3 cm / 1 m of the pipe length (or more). If the total length of the drainage system exceeds 60 m, then, most likely, you need to think about additional measures - for example, increasing the diameter of the outlet pipe.
Is there a noticeable slope on the site, or is there no storm sewer nearby? We'll have to bring the drains of the sole of the foundation to the pump. In this case, the pipe connecting the outer contour of the drainage system with a pump is laid to the water collector along the shortest route.

Water in the basement, drainage system video

It should be noted that the inner contour of the drainage system should not be connected to its outer sector in any way. This is because the risk of problems in the outside is much higher than in the inside. Failure in the external circuit of the combined system will lead to basement flooding, as water will go under the house.
The cause of most of the problems with water under the house is waterlogged backfill. Coating applied to concrete blocks access to water through various defects foundation. A perforated PVC pipe laid along the base of the foundation drains excess water away from the house. Made of gravel, sand and a special cloth, the filter protects the drainage system from silting. If you do not take care of the drainage of rainwater flowing from the roof, then it will end up in the cellar. If your question basement water what to do and how to get rid of is still relevant, then we will look at a few more methods of dealing with such a problem as basement water.

Water drainage - the further, the better

Also a problem basement water , can solve competent drainage. To divert water from the gutters away from the house - this seems to be an axiom. But not many homes have effective rainwater drainage. Another way to take rain water- connection of downpipes with a drainpipe, which has a steep (as far as possible) slope from the building.
Due to the accumulation of debris in the gutters, the diameter drain pipes must contribute to the reliable removal of moisture even during a downpour - at least 100 mm. In this case, the best outlet pipe for installation is 0150 mm.
Bends at a right angle are undesirable in the drain channel, as they will certainly become clogged with leaves and debris. If the length of the gutter is more than 5 m, then it is better to think about two outlet channels. And one more thing: the drainage pipe of the rain gutters must not be connected to the drainage system of the base of the foundation. The “most likely” blockage of the drainage system will turn into a blockage of the entire drainage system.

Basement water. What to do and how to get rid of?

Internal drainage circuit (collects water from the foundation walls), insulation under the concrete slab (does not allow steam and water to rise up), a reliable pumping pump - these are the three components of an effective basement drainage system.
A layer of gravel 20-25 cm thick is laid under the concrete slab. Such backfill is a reliable cushion for concrete, providing drainage under the slab. After the gravel is laid, a high-density polyethylene vapor barrier is installed. The canvases overlap by at least 40-50 cm, and the joints are sealed with adhesive tape.
Such insulation is not held in high esteem by "concrete workers", since it does not allow moisture from the solution to go into the ground, and this lengthens the technological cycle. But this problem is solved by a sandy layer 70-80 mm thick laid on top of the insulation. Another option is isolation under gravel. In any case, the short-term benefits of intact under-building insulation are worth the temporary installation inconvenience.
The junction of the basement floor and the foundation wall - the best place to capture and drain water entering the cellar. Enough in an efficient way water capture is a plastic profile around the perimeter, placed under a concrete slab - such an apron collects water seeping through the walls. Holes in the profile allow moisture to seep into the gravel under the slab, where the water is pumped out.
A well-functioning pump is the heart of the drainage system, and basement water you are not afraid. Practical experience defines several criteria for selecting this instrument. First of all, the obligatory cast-iron body. Then the ability to pump out polluted water with solid inclusions 10-12 mm in size. And yet - the pump has a mechanical float switch which is very reliable.
The pump is housed inside a plastic sump that collects and filters water. Such a perforated container is placed in the filler layer. Water from the internal circuit of the drainage system enters the water collector through its side wall. The container must have a sealed, airtight lid - it will not allow moisture to evaporate into the basement, and also protect the water collector from getting various objects that can upset the operation of the switch.
But it is risky - to trust the dryness of the basement only to the pump. In a house blackout situation due to a hurricane, the basement will fill with water very quickly. To insure, the system is equipped with a backup pump on rechargeable batteries, mounted in the water collector, where the main pump is. The discharge pipeline for it can be used the same.
High-efficiency systems use pumps that are equipped with batteries and chargers for long-term standby. The charger is very important, as untimely recharging will lead to the flood of the basement.
The pumped water is supplied either to the storm drain through the pipeline (if the first one is available), or outside, where it is removed as far as possible from the building. It is necessary to mount the discharge pipeline so that it does not freeze in winter. This is our article Basement water. What to do and how to get rid, has come to an end, we hope that after it, the water in the basement will cease to be your headache, and the arrival of spring will be accompanied only by joyful surprises.

Basement plays important role for every homeowner, and it does not matter where it is located: under the house, garage or outbuilding. It perfectly serves for storage of things, winter preparations. If this is a spacious room, then often a workshop is organized in it. Sometimes building is carried out according to economical option or with a violation of technology, as a result of which moisture appears in the basement. It gradually destroys the structure, creates optimal conditions to form mold. Aspergillus (a moldy fungus) not only takes an active part in the damage to surfaces, but also negatively affects human health. The article will focus on protecting the basement from water.

Where does the water in the basement come from?

Fighting destructive force begins with identifying the cause of its occurrence. It is by establishing the source of troubles that we can talk about the disappearance of moisture in the room. Experts identify 3 factors for the appearance of dampness.

• Penetration ground water Into the basement. In this case, flooding occurs due to an error in the geodetic study or its incorrect reading. It is worth noting that many site owners completely refuse survey work, acting on the principle - "everything is fine with the neighbors, which means that it will be the same with me."
• The penetration of rain and melt water is the most common cause. An absent or improperly equipped drainage and drainage system allows water to accumulate at the foundation, and then penetrate into the basement.
• Emergency state plumbing pipes. The most easily eliminated source of moisture.

The probability of flooding the basement should be calculated at the construction stage, here it is necessary to make every effort to prevent it. In the course of work, the relief of the site, the level of groundwater, the depth of the basement, and so on, are taken into account. It should be remembered that a person cannot influence nature, therefore it is not worth saving.

You can avoid the formation of moisture in the basement through the timely organization reliable waterproofing and drainage systems. However, there are situations when a house is purchased and already in the process of operation it is revealed this problem. Then labor-intensive and expensive measures are taken to eliminate water in the basement and prevent its reappearance.

Types of basement waterproofing

Of course, today the market offers a variety of materials, each of which is appropriate in its place. Before heading to hardware store, you need to know that there are 3 types of waterproofing:

• Anti-pressure. Such waterproofing is carried out with groundwater located above the floor location. It is used only outside the structure. Here you need materials that resist the positive pressure of water.
• Non-pressure. This waterproofing protects the basement from the penetration of melt and rain water. It is mainly needed if groundwater is deep and there is a low probability of its rise.
• Anticapillary. The arrangement of such a system is used as a protection of dense and porous concrete, brick structures from destruction. Previously, bitumen-based materials were used for these purposes, today penetrating compounds are preferred.

Materials for basement waterproofing from groundwater

For work, you can use various materials, which are conditionally divided according to the principle of application:

• rolled or sheet materials on a bitumen or polymer basis are glued to surfaces in several layers. These include: roofing material, hydrobutyl, stekloizol and others. Before applying, the surfaces are leveled, dried and treated with a bituminous emulsion. For greater reliability, it is recommended to lay out a pressure wall of bricks or concrete blocks with a width of 120 mm. The resulting gap between it and the waterproofing (up to 15 mm) is filled with masonry mortar;
• penetrating materials are used for interior work. They endow concrete base properties that do not allow water to penetrate into it under a certain pressure. It is applied to a damp surface, such an environment creates conditions under which the composition forms crystals that fill all the pores and cracks. You should know that this mixture is used only on concrete surfaces good quality, where the crack depth does not exceed 0.4 mm;

• coating materials - this is a fairly broad category, including mastics, pastes and other similar compounds. So, bitumen with mineral additives is applied to durable moistened surfaces made of clinker, concrete blocks, natural stone etc. Such material forms a waterproof elastic film. It perfectly resists the pressure of water, therefore it is used for arranging waterproofing only from the outside of the structure. Often for outdoor protection bituminous materials are used from pressure waters. They are applied to the walls and floor (before pouring it). Surfaces can be from hollow blocks, concrete, limestone, bricks and more. Polyurethane coatings are also intended for the treatment of external surfaces. But here it is necessary to create conditions under which the base could provide good adhesion;
• water repellents limit the interaction of the surface with water. Such materials are suitable for use in internal works with well-equipped pressure waterproofing.

Water in the basement what to do?

Often, many owners of flooded basements neglect labor-intensive earthworks wanting to make waterproofing simpler and economical way. But such measures will only lead to a temporary solution to problems.

High-quality protection of the structure can only be ensured by performing appropriate work outside the premises. In the absence of external protection, water penetrating through the thickness of the walls and floor will squeeze out the internal insulation over time.

External protection of the basement from groundwater

• First of all, excavation is carried out around the entire outer perimeter of the basement. The walls are cleared of dirt. Large gaps are filled sand-cement mortar. If possible, all surfaces are leveled as much as possible.

• For outdoor work, bituminous mastic is first used, then rolled materials are glued. It is important to ensure that the ends of the material extend beyond the walls by at least 20 cm.
• For the same purpose, penetrating waterproofing can be used. The mixture is diluted according to the manufacturer's recommendations indicated on the package. Clots in the solution are unacceptable. Tassel processed outside corners premises. Then the walls are processed with a roller, the layer thickness should be about 1 mm.
• Drying of the surfaces will take at least 2 days, during which time the composition will penetrate into the thickness of the walls by 30-70 cm (depending on the manufacturer). Properly done work will protect the walls from water penetration for a period of 40-50 years.
• There are situations where access to outer walls is absent and excavation is impossible here (the buildings are located close to each other), in this case, injection comes to the rescue. Holes are drilled in the wall in a certain order, into which polymer resins, microcements or acrylic gels are pumped under pressure.
• Rapid drainage of storm water will provide drainage laid along the perimeter of the building or basement. Minimize water ingress into the basement and install gutters and storm water inlets. Such a system serves for drainage; it is not used as the only protection against moisture ingress into the premises. Its use is advisable only in conjunction with other waterproofing works.

• Upon completion of all work, the pit is filled up and the blind area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure is restored.

Internal protection of the basement from groundwater

• Getting started, you need to get rid of the water. It can be scooped out with improvised means, which is very inconvenient, or you can use a pump. The choice of a drainage pump should be used for pumping water from the basement is based on the degree of contamination of the water. If it contains fibrous inclusions, silt and other large particles, then it is better to use a fecal pump. For example, the usual drainage pump is able to pump out water from the basement with a particle content of up to 7 mm, then the fecal unit will cope with particles of 50 mm.

• Next, the room is dried. You can simply ventilate the room or use forced drying using infrared heaters, heat guns etc.
• The weakest points of the room are the corners. They are recommended to be laid with a waterproofing cord, swelling, it makes problem areas impenetrable.
• It is desirable to fill the floor with concrete again, previously all the cracks in the old base are sealed. A layer of sand or expanded clay 5-10 cm thick is poured, any waterproof layer is laid on top roll material. After treatment with bituminous mastic, the screed is poured with the addition of water repellents and modified fiber fibers, which will make it water resistant. Instead of concreting, you can install logs, and on them a wooden floor.
• Vertical surfaces are also cleaned of dirt, all large cracks are sealed with masonry mortar. Wall treatment required antifungal drugs. Bituminous mastic or other similar material is applied to surfaces with a roller or brush.
• Great attention should be paid to ventilation. Her job is to normalize the humidity in this difficult room. It prevents the appearance of mold, eliminates musty, bad smell dampness.

• Supply and exhaust ventilation can be performed in a simplified version. One pipe should be placed parallel to the wall almost from the floor itself with access to the outside, using a knee, the second should be placed under the ceiling, also with access to the street. The outer parts of the pipes are protected from the ingress of melt and rain water.

If the building is quite old and due to some circumstances it is not possible to fulfill all the recommended repair work, then the following can be suggested:

• fill large gaps with rags and coat with bituminous mastic;
• organize a pit, that is, dig a hole about half a meter deep, the walls must be strengthened with brickwork. Pour coarse crushed stone about 10 cm thick at the bottom. Install a drainage pump equipped with a automatic start. As soon as the water reaches a certain level, the pump will pump it out. The water drain hose coming from the pump is best located as far as possible from the building.

To save yourself from labor-intensive and rather costly work, to protect things or winter preparations from water damage, the timely organization of waterproofing will help. During the construction process, all of the above activities can be carried out with great convenience.

What to do if the basement, basement, storage is flooded? How to deal with the flow of water into the basement, basement, underground storage? How to stop the filtration and penetration of groundwater through concrete and brick walls, through a concrete floor, from joints and corners? What to do and how to act so that it becomes dry in the basement, basement, underground storage and in other underground and buried structures?

Step by step action plan

What needs to be done and what cannot be done if a water inflow is detected or the basement, basement, underground storage (including the cellar) is completely flooded. Basement waterproofing (basement, storage) from the inside.

The list of hazardous factors typical for basements, plinths, underground storages and methods for their elimination are given below.

Note:

• Carbon dioxide is tricky. Its danger is often underestimated. In elevated concentrations, it causes oxygen starvation with loss of consciousness (or with more serious consequences if the victim is not evacuated from the danger zone in time). At the same time, carbon dioxide is colorless and odorless and is not detected organoleptically, i.e. failure may come unexpectedly. On initial stage the danger is manifested by shortness of breath; in especially dangerous cases, a lit match or candle, which is placed in such an area, goes out.

• Carbon dioxide is heavier than air and accumulates in stagnant areas at the lower elevations of buildings and structures, especially in cellars, vegetable stores, technological wells, etc. The reasons for the formation of carbon dioxide, as a rule, are the processes of respiration (including plants or their parts with a lack of lighting), fermentation, combustion, or the interaction of acids with carbonates, incl. due to acid spills on concrete.

• Testing for carbon dioxide by combustion (matches, candles, etc.) is unacceptable for areas where an explosive concentration of combustible substances (dust, gases, vapors of combustible liquids, etc.) can occur. In particular, where active decay can occur in an aquatic environment, for example, in a sewer system or in a swampy area, because. in this case, an explosive concentration of methane may form in the room.

• The above list of security measures is not exhaustive and needs to be clarified taking into account the specifics of the facility.

2. In any case, if there is a threat to health, and even more so to life, before eliminating such a threat, you should leave the dangerous area and inform the emergency services about what happened.

Remember: no property is worth your health and life.

3. Work in hazardous areas can be started only after ensuring your safety at the proper level.

At a minimum, you should be with a partner in dangerous areas, notifying in advance of your location and the duration of your stay in a dangerous area. It is recommended to involve specialized organizations for hazardous work.

When evaluating the feasibility of performing an immediate pumping of water, two circumstances should be taken into account:

• Water intake rate
• Floor and wall material in the basement, basement, vault

1.1.Water intake rate

1.2.Floor and wall material in the basement, basement, storage

Note: the most labor- and resource-intensive work is required for waterproofing. Even if water is almost completely pumped out of such a basement (basement, storage), then here the potential source of leakage is the entire floor or the entire Brick wall. Accordingly, it is impossible to stop leaks locally. In this case, to solve the problem, it is required to use concreting the floor, and sometimes the walls.

2. Having established the feasibility of immediate pumping of water, organize its implementation.

Relatively not a large number of water with its moderate intake can be pumped out, for example, using drainage pumps for dirty water:

At the same time, the height of the water rise and the performance of the pump must ensure the complete removal of water or its maintenance at an acceptable level during work.

For example, for a basement with a size of 6x12 m, a depth of 3 m (at the lower mark at the level of the adjacent soil), flooded by 1 m, with an increase in the water level of 100 mm per hour, a pump with a capacity of 7.2-8 m 3 / h will be required, raising water at least 4 m, just to stabilize the water level. Accordingly, in order to pump out water almost completely, say, in 5 hours, a pump with a capacity of 21.6-24 m 3 / hour is needed.

3. In emergency cases and in case of large-scale flooding, it is advisable to call a specialized organization , in particular the emergency service of the water utility.

This is especially necessary if the flooding is caused by a break in the common cold or hot water or on a sewer.

Leak blocking work can only be started if an acceptable water level is guaranteed throughout all work. In this case, a sudden power outage should not lead to dangerous situations.

Depending on the conditions at the facility, two main options for blocking a leak are used:

• Option 1. Leak blocking without the use of concreting. It is used in the simplest cases, when the exact location of all leaks is known to the water.
• Option 2. Leak blocking with concreting. It is used in difficult cases, especially with severe flooding and when it is impossible to establish the exact location of all leaks or their number is such that it makes it impractical to work on each focus separately.

Leak blocking without the use of concreting is used: if a source of water inflow is installed, this source has a local character, and the center itself is surrounded by a solid substrate (concrete).

In this case, stopping the penetration of water into the basement, basement, storage consists in localizing the centers of leaks and spot-fixing leaks without the use of concreting:

Action plan:

1. By pumping or otherwise ensure a safe and acceptable water level throughout the work.

2. Locate the source of the leak:

2.1. Places where water flows into the basement, basement, storage above the water level are easily detected visually.

2.2. Leaks under the water level (with sufficient transparency) can be detected using a dye ("blue", colored ink), fine powder (pigment, ash, sand), water-based paint or some other way to visualize the movement of water. To do this, pour (pour) the visualization tool used in a thin stream along the wall: the areas of water ingress will be noticeable by the movement of the dye (powder, paint). The identified areas should be marked above the water level, after which such an operation should be carried out along the remaining walls (partitions), as well as on the floor at joints, cracks and utility lines.

2.3. If the turbidity of the water does not allow finding leaks below the water level, it is recommended to pump water until the leaks open and become available for work. If, along with the turbidity of the water, a strong water influx does not allow pumping out water and opening the centers of leaks, then you should proceed to the measures specified in paragraph 2) of paragraph 1.1. "Water inflow rate" of Step 2.

3. Block leaks and take measures to prevent their occurrence:

3.1. To eliminate focal leaks (active leaks), Dehydrol Lux brand 8 "Cement waterproofing with a penetrating effect" is used.

The material quickly - in 1-5 minutes - seizes in air and under water, in heat and in frost, forming a waterproof "cork":

Dehydrol luxury brand 8 after setting:

• "wedged" in the source of leakage, self-fixing and preventing leakage not only through the material itself, but also at the junction with the material;

• additionally clogs the adjoining concrete, preventing water filtration inside the concrete along the junction with the material.

3.2. To use Dehydrol luxury brand 8, it is required to prepare a ditch, excavation or well directly at the source of the leak.

The edges of the grooves (holes, grooves, recesses) must be vertical with respect to the adjacent front surface of the concrete. It is not allowed to cut the edges of the cut with a “trough”, i.e. with outward expansion. Only after that you can start laying the material.

Shtraba, excavation by leakage

3.3. Work to eliminate leaks is carried out from top to bottom.

3.4. If it is necessary to stop strong leaks, as well as leaks at large joints, grooves and wells, work is carried out in stages. First, a spherical or cylindrical lump is formed from the prepared solution and the upper part of the sludge or well is filled with it, pressing the solution with a spatula or hand for 0.5-3 minutes until it sets. Then, also step by step, from top to bottom, the rest of the shtraba, joint or well is waterproofed.

3.5. If it is necessary to stop leaks at extended joints or shtrabs, work is also carried out in stages. The sequence of filling sections of the shtrab (joints) is established based on their slope from the horizontal and the volume of leaks:

• grooves and joints with an inclination from top to bottom, incl. vertical strokes and joints are minted step by step from top to bottom;
• horizontal (not having a clear slope from the horizontal) strokes and joints are minted, going step by step from the "dry" (least flowing) areas to areas with maximum water inflow;
• in any case, it is recommended to arrange the sealing of the shtrab (joints) in such a way as to avoid pouring freshly laid material from above or from neighboring areas.

3.6. The material is pressed into the groove (joint) with a spatula or hand for 0.5-3 minutes until it sets. The caulking of each subsequent portion of the solution is carried out only after the previous portion has gained sufficient strength. The holding time for hardening the material is increased and the more, the stronger the leakage and the lower the ambient temperature.

Caulking of active leakage Dehydrol luxury brand 8

The consumption of Dehydrol luxury brand 8 is 1.5 kg per 1 dm 3 of the filled streak, groove, recess, well.

3.7.Important: all joints, seams, cracks and input of communications are subject to waterproofing, and those areas where there are no leaks at the stage of work, it is advisable to waterproof Dehydrol luxury brand 5:

3.8. In the event that the localization of leaks and their stop at the foci is impossible, the flow of water is blocked using concreting.

Blocking active leaks and water ingress using concreting is advisable to apply when:

• there are multiple difficult-to-localize leaks;

• it is impossible to localize leaks due to the characteristics of the walls and floor or bottom (for example, a floor made of sand, crushed stone or destroyed concrete);

• there is an active flooding of the floor (bottom) with the impossibility of its complete drying even at the time of work;

• it is necessary to reliably block the flow of water (especially through the floor or the bottom) in case of insufficiently complete information on the object.

Action plan:

1. By pumping out water or, conversely, using controlled flooding, stabilize the water at a level acceptable for the work:

2. Perform continuous concreting of the floor (or bottom) with reinforced waterproof concrete with an accelerated rate of hardening and curing:

Such concrete is obtained thanks to the addition of Dehydrol Lux brand 10-2 "Liquid waterproofing hyperconcentrate" (consumption 4 l per 1 m 3 concrete mix). Moreover, concreting can be carried out even under water. When concreting objects in floodplain areas, it is recommended to provide for a floor slope and a pit with a drainage line for emergency collection and pumping of water.

3. Pump out water.

Water is usually pumped out the next day after concreting (if the temperature is about 20 ° C).

4. Fix leaks at the joint of freshly made waterproof concrete slab with walls, as well as other detected focal leaks.

Elimination of focal leaks is carried out as indicated above in paragraph "Option 1. Leak blocking without the use of concreting."

5. Repair areas of eroded concrete.

With the active flow of water, blurring of individual sections of a freshly made concrete slab can be observed before the concrete sets. In such areas, after the elimination of active leaks, but preferably before the concrete gains excessive strength, loose (eroded) concrete should be removed and the concrete should be monolithic with Dehydrol Lux brand 5 "Repair and penetrating waterproofing" (consumption 1.7 kg per 1 dm 3 of the filled groove, excavation or 17 kg/m 2 for a layer of 10 mm).

6. In the event that the walls of the flooded basement, basement, storage are made of brick, additional waterproofing of the brickwork will be required.

6.1. First, lay out the masonry joints:

Jointing of masonry joints must be carried out:

• to a depth of at least 15 mm, and when water enters from the seams, at least 20 mm;
• to a height from the floor surface and, at least, to the upper level of groundwater (or better, to the level of soil adjacent to the outside of the building and plus 0.5 m).

6.2. After jointing, masonry should be hermetically minted:

• Dehydrol luxury brand 8 - in the presence of leaks;
• Dehydrol lux brand 5 - in the absence of leaks at the time of work:

6.3.For your information: brickwork is one of the unsuitable materials for building walls in basements where there is a risk of flooding with groundwater, so in some cases it is advisable to concret the walls with waterproof concrete, as indicated above for the floor (bottom).

General basement waterproofing schemes in case of flooding

1. Schemes for waterproofing prefabricated reinforced concrete basements (basements from FBS) in case of flooding

1.1. The scheme of waterproofing a flooded or flooded basement, in which all sources of water inflow are localized:

1.2. A waterproofing scheme for a flooded or flooded basement in which:

2. Schemes for waterproofing monolithic reinforced concrete basements in case of flooding

2.1. Scheme for waterproofing a flooded or flooded basement, in which all sources of water inflow are localized

2.2. A waterproofing scheme for a flooded or flooded basement in which:

• it is impossible to establish all the sources of water inflow (in the floor);
• or receipt water is coming across the floor;
• or it is impossible to pump out completely the water for the period of work.

The water supply stops after the application of Dehydrol Lux brand 8, and 1-2 weeks after the above work, the basement (basement, storage) dries up:

Waterproofing done. In the basement, basement, storage is now dry. You can start decorating.

The accumulation of moisture in the cellar always negatively affects both the items and products stored in it, and the structure of the building itself. Therefore, each owner should know if water accumulates in the basement of a private house, what to do and how to protect the property. "Plumber Portal" will talk about the main ways to protect and drain the cellar from groundwater, precipitation and excess moisture. But first it is necessary in the reasons why the basement is flowing.

To find out how to get rid of water in the cellar, you need to determine the reason why it gets there.

The main reasons for the accumulation of excess moisture in the basement are as follows:

• the appearance of cracks in the foundation of a private house. Cracks in the foundation of the building appear as a result of a violation of the construction technology of the foundation of the house. Even if the gaps are microscopic, moisture penetrates into the cellar through the smallest capillaries, which causes fungus to appear and mold and fungus multiply;
• an increase in the level of groundwater. If the basement waterproofing was performed poorly, then when the ground water level rises, moisture accumulates in the basement, causing damage to the foundation as well;
• seasonal heavy rainfall. The main source of groundwater is heavy rainfall and snowmelt.

When the basement is frequently flooded, calcium is removed from the concrete in the building structure, reducing its strength and reliability. To avoid the destruction of the building, you need to know how to get rid of water in the cellar of a garage or residential building.

How to get rid of water with a pump

What to do if flooding has already occurred, how to pump water out of basements? The easiest way is to use a drainage pump for this. Even if you do not have such equipment, in almost every city there are organizations that rent pumps or provide water pumping services at a very reasonable price.

To independently remove the liquid accumulated in the cellar using a drainage pump, follow these instructions:

1. Make a recess in the center of the room below the floor level. Insert into it plastic barrel or another vessel that will perform the function of the caisson.
2. Make several perforated holes in the walls of the tank on the sides.
3. To keep liquid out of the holes, wrap the barrel with a waterproof cloth.
4. At the bottom of the vessel, pour a layer of fine gravel, which will play the role of a foundation for pumping equipment.
5. Then install the pump inside the caisson, and fill the wall space with concrete mortar.
6. Connect the liquid suction hose and liquid discharge pipe to the instrument.
7. When the recess begins to fill with water, a special float will determine the liquid level, and the pump will automatically start to work, pumping out unnecessary moisture.
8. When the water is pumped out, the float will lower and the pump motor will turn off.

In this way, flooding of the basement can be prevented and the property located in it can be preserved. In addition, the drainage pump is able to quickly drain the foundation of the building and get rid of the moisture accumulated in it. Even if some water remains in the cellar, a properly equipped ventilation system will remove excess moisture and dampness.

If the basement is leaking - equip a pit!

When the basement constantly flows, what to do in this case? Most effective method- build a pit inside the cellar of a private house. This is a budget and less troublesome option for a drainage system.

To build a pit correctly, https: // site recommends following our instructions:

1. Directly in the center of the cellar, dig a square hole, with a volume of at least 1 cubic meter. The larger the room, the larger the pit should be.
2. In the center of the recess, make another hole about the size of a bucket of 10-12 liters.
3. Lower an enameled or galvanized bucket into the recess, and carefully compact the soil around it.
4. Line the walls of the pit with solid bricks, and then fill with a layer cement mortar 2-3 cm thick.
5. From above, lay a grate of reinforcement with such a mesh size that you can pump water out of the bucket using a pump or manually, for example, with a mug.
6. For drainage in the pit, make small grooves or lay tiles. The joints between the parts will act as grooves for draining the liquid.

As you can see, do the simplest system drainage, if the basement is constantly flowing, it’s very simple, the main thing is to do everything in stages and according to the rules.

Cellar protection from groundwater

A common problem faced by owners of private houses: groundwater in the basement, what to do in this case?

Because the main reason flooding is to increase the level of groundwater as a result of seasonal precipitation, in order to protect basement from groundwater, two methods can be used:

1. Arrange an annular drainage around the walls of the structure at the level of the base of the foundation.
2. Make high-quality waterproofing of the walls and floor of the cellar.

An external drainage system is the most effective way to protect the basement from flooding, but also the most technically complex and expensive. But in the end you get the best protection from basement flooding.

To install an external drainage system, follow the following algorithm of actions:

1. Along the perimeter of the house, stepping back 30-70 cm from the foundation, dig a trench about 100-120 cm wide.
2. On the four sides of the trench, make additional bends about 5 meters long.
3. At the end of each additional outlet, make a recess for installing a concrete ring.
4. Line the bottom of the main trench with geotextile.
5. Lay a drainage pipe over the geotextile substrate and install manholes every 7 meters
6. Then fill the pipe with several layers of the following materials:

• the first layer of crushed stone is filled up to a level of 10 centimeters before the end of the foundation;
• a second layer of sand to the top of the building's foundation;
• the third layer of large gravel to a level of 15 centimeters before the end of the soil.

1. Then fill the crushed stone with a layer of concrete mortar to the ground level.

Properly executed external drainage, together with high-quality internal waterproofing and a ventilation system, will help to avoid flooding the basement.

In addition, the synthesis of functional systems will help create an optimal microclimate, help drain the basement in case of increased humidity.

Drainage system from the basement and foundation

The surface drainage system will protect the basement and foundation from flooding by seasonal natural precipitation - rain or snowmelt.

The choice of one or another method of eliminating water in the basement depends on many factors: the features of the terrain, the depth of groundwater, chemical composition soil and other factors.

There are three types of drainage, each of which has its own characteristics:

1. Wall mounted. The arrangement of this type of drainage system is necessary for those buildings where there is a basement or basement. Its arrangement is carried out immediately after pouring and hardening of the foundation of the house.
2. Trench, or ring. Such drainage can be easily organized with your own hands. It looks like a deep trench dug around the house.

Important! Ring, or trench, drainage should be 0.4-0.5 meters below the level of the foundation of the building.

1. Plast. The drainage reservoir system is laid at the stage of digging a foundation pit for the future structure. It is rarely used in modern construction, as it is used only in slab construction.

Choosing this or that elimination of water from the house, it is necessary to proceed from your own capabilities and architectural features the buildings. The trench system is considered the most effective.

How to drain a basement after a flood?

What to do if the cellar flooded and how to drain the basements, because the accumulated water in the basement is a violation of the comfort of living and a serious threat to the reliability of the entire structure.

Important tips for flooding your basement include a few things:

1. Choose the right fertilizer. As soon as water appeared in the basement, you need to remove the liquid. If the flooding is minor, then dry the wet areas with towels and a mop. In case of deep flooding, equipment should be used: a sump pump, a water vacuum.
2. Remove liquid. Pumping equipment will need an outlet to pump water. If the underground is flooded, then the drains in the basement may not be available to drain. You will need a hose to attach to the pump to run it through windows or doors to drain fluid.
3. Dry the room. If the rain is over, open the windows to get the moisture out of the room. Once the water is cleared from the basement floor, it's time to start drying the area. If the heating operation is not affected by the flood, turn on the heating until more high temperature to help with the drying process.

Do not forget to open the windows so that the moisture also evaporates into the air. And also use a fan to circulate the air to speed up the drying process.

Another way to dry out the cellar is to use a dehumidifier. When operating this equipment, be sure to close windows and doors to effective work. When the dehumidifier has finished extracting moisture in one area, move it to another area.

Prevention measures

To get rid of water and avoid such a problem in the future, take all measures to arrange high-quality drainage in a timely manner. There are several methods to keep your basement dry and avoid flooding:

1. Focus on prevention. Before a flood situation arises, you need to inspect your property inside and out, and determine what are the ways to get rainwater out of the house.
2. Remove leaves from the gutter in spring and fall. Blocked channels cause all the water on the roof to flow onto the foundation, increasing the chance of basement flooding.
3. Extend the rain gutter outside the house, it can be hidden in a pit. To fix the part, strengthen with mortar using a small concrete plant, which is located on the site. Do not connect drainpipes to underground dry wells. This will lead to the fact that the water on the roof will saturate the earth even more and in the future the liquid will not stop, it will reach the basement.
4. During a heavy downpour, watch the water build up around the house and see the main flow of the liquid. If surface water is directed towards a built dwelling, contact your local contractor for advice on how to protect the yard so that the water is directed away from the structures.

Thus, if water accumulates in the basement of a private house, what to do is known: to create a high-quality waterproofing and drainage system. Drainage will take the brunt of heavy rains, melting snow, groundwater, and high-quality external or internal waterproofing will protect the cellar from seepage of water through the pores of concrete, from dampness and flooding of the room.

Water in the basement of a private house appears in summer and spring. This can happen to any building, even if it has never been flooded before.

Causes of flooding

Floods occur during heavy rains in summer or rapid snowmelt in spring, and water also floods underground in dry weather. The reason why this phenomenon occurs is seepage or leakage through walls or foundations from surface water and storm sewers.

It is important to remember several factors.

• Basements are prone to flooding. This is the most low level buildings built partially or wholly below ground level.
• Groundwater is located below the surface of the earth. The groundwater level may be higher than the level of the basement floor.
• Sewerage is located in the ground. This includes all varieties - storm, sanitary and combined. In most cases, the sewerage is below the foundation, the water level in the sewer systems is above the level of the basement floor.

If the groundwater levels or sewers around the house are above floor level, the liquid will automatically flow into the basement. For example, a crack in the foundation floor provides an ideal path for water to flow underground.

Sewer pipes always have a direction to the house and back from it. Under normal conditions, water flows from the house to the sewer. In case of violation of the system, there is a possibility of a reverse process - the liquid will go into the house.

Main problems:

• the slope of the earth promotes the flow of water towards the house;
• destroyed foundation - cracks that have arisen that allow water to flow down;
• pipe problems.

Flooding during dry weather

Most floods occur during wet weather, but it is possible that flooding will occur during dry weather. There are three common reasons:

• Blocked or violated sanitary block. Sewerage eventually goes out of working order. For example, tree roots can penetrate the pipe and subject it to deformation. In this case, the normal descent of the liquid is blocked, and accumulation and inhibition of drain processes occur. This is usually waste water. own house that floods the basement. Leakage of fluid from the shower, toilet, sink. Broken structure needs maintenance, and in the end it is necessary to replace it or rehabilitate it.

• Plumbing blockage. Another reason for blocking the sanitary sewer is what is flushed down the toilet. There is a list of things that should not be thrown down the toilet.

In case of blockage, it is better to seek help from a specialist. Toilets are designed for human waste and toilet paper.

• Foundation drainage failure. Partitions in basements are sometimes built in lower areas, which are usually wetter than others. In such cases, the foundation drainage system, such as a pump, must run continuously to keep the groundwater level around the foundation below the basement floor. If the system fails, then the liquid floods the basement.

Flooding during wet weather

Basement flooding during wet weather is more common than flooding during dry weather. Rain, melt water loads drainage systems, sewer pipes found underground. With such a load on the surface, there are reasons why water leaked into the basement.

Surface inflow or flooding on the surface of the earth. During periods of heavy rain or snowmelt, surface water drains around the house or accumulates in hard-to-reach places such as driveways or roads adjacent to the house.

Waterproofing is considered part of the drainage system of the foundation. There are three main causes of foundation flooding in this category, all of which are generally the result of excessive groundwater around the foundation.

• seepage. If the water table rises, liquid can enter the basement through cracks, holes, and other routes. Usually this an old house or fragile materials, especially wooden structures which have a porous structure.

If the drainage materials and pipes around the foundation are broken, water can also enter the foundation floor or walls through cracks and holes. This will happen during heavy rains, periods of thawing snow, when there is a lot of water in the ground.

• Pump failure. If a pump is installed in the basement, the item will need to be adjusted in order for it to work effectively. Pumps, when properly functioning and well maintained, pump excess water over and away from the base of the house. This water should be directed towards the lawn or storm sewer. If the pumps are unable to keep running, possibly due to a power failure or malfunction, the groundwater level around the foundation rises to the point where it flows out of the sump onto the basement floor.
• Filled sewer. This means that the pipes are full and the water level in the manholes may rise above the top of the pipe. The main reason for this is the excess water in sewer system, which eventually overloads the sewer with a large amount of water.

How to get rid?

In the flooded basement, liquid must be eliminated. important matter is to maintain the integrity of the underground and, if necessary, remove things that the water floods.

Such a basement not only has an unpleasant smell, but also poses a great risk to the preservation of the house. Moisture in the underground destroys floors and walls, promotes the appearance of mold, and can even damage the roof.

Moisture must be dealt with immediately, as the fungus will harm the property and health of residents.

Some basements are easy to dry, clear gutters, and drain water from the foundation. But if the problem comes from other sources - liquid flows to the house on the surface, seeping out from under the ground, more active actions need to be taken.

There are several ways to get rid of liquid in the basement:

• Add Gutter Extension. If the downpipes discharge water less than 1.5 kilometers from the house, you need to direct the water further by adding plastic or metal gutters. permanent underground drainage pipe invisible and able to move a large number Wastewater into the sewer much farther from the house.

• Pipe surface rupture. If liquid flows into the basement through cracks or gaps around water pipes, you can block the holes manually with hydraulic cement or polyurethane compound.

If liquid is rising through the floor, groundwater is the problem and blocking the holes with compound will not help.

• Restoration of the earthen surface near the house. Over time, the soil around the foundation settles. To restore this area, a clay-loam mixture will be required.
• Restoration of sewers. If water is leaking in the subfloor low on the walls or at the seams where the walls meet the floor, the problem is hydrostatic pressure pushing the water out of the ground. You need to check where underground pipes are installed to remove water from the foundation. You will need to look for a hatch or drainage in the basement.

If the drains are clogged, clean and flush the pipes garden hose. If this does not work, you should call a plumber, plumber.

• Pump. To create internal system drain, you need to make a channel around the perimeter of the floor, pour concrete and lay a perforated pipe into the hole. The part goes into a tank at a low point in the basement.

Such a system is the best and least destructive option for a basement. This a good choice if the yard is filled with flowers and greenery that destroy the external drainage system.

• Wall waterproofing. Installing an internal drainage system drains water, but does not make it waterproof. This requires an external system - a drain, which will reduce hydrostatic pressure and external waterproofing to protect the foundation.

This is a big job that needs to be excavated around the house. The disadvantage is the removal of the well, if there is one in the yard.

How to prevent occurrence?

There are several methods to keep your basement dry and avoid flooding:

• Focus on prevention. Before a flood situation arises, you need to inspect your property inside and out, and determine what are the ways to get rainwater out of the house.
• Remove leaves from the gutter in spring and autumn. Blocked channels cause all the water on the roof to flow onto the foundation, increasing the chance of basement flooding.

• Extend the rain gutter outside the house, it can be hidden in a pit. To fix the part, reinforcement is made with a solution using a small concrete plant, which is located on the site. Do not connect drainpipes to underground dry wells. This will lead to the fact that the water on the roof will saturate the earth even more and in the future the liquid will not stop, it will reach the basement.

• During a heavy downpour, observe how the water accumulates around the house and see the main flow of the liquid. If surface water is directed towards a built dwelling, contact your local contractor for advice on how to protect the yard so that the water is directed away from the dwelling.
• Emergency electricity. Install an automatic generator to provide electrical service to critical equipment such as a furnace or electric heating, borehole pump, refrigerator, septic pump, in case of power loss. It is important to choose a place where there will be complete isolation from the liquid. Without emergency backup power, you can return home to a flooded basement, frozen plumbing, and a broken septic tank.
• Insure property against flooding.

Drainpipes tend to clog constantly, holes appear on the surface of objects. Water flows through them down the perimeter of the house, and not to the corners and away from the house.

The groundwater level can be high in the ground. The earth layer becomes wet, and puddles form on the surface, if there are cracks in the foundation of the house, the liquid will seep into the basement.

Many people know that their home has this problem and they have chosen to install a sump to remedy the situation.