Petunia is well known to flower growers, it is grown on household plots and on the balconies. And with regret they dig up every year, so that next year they will grow again from seeds. These flowers are considered summer, but in fact they are perennials. And if you provide certain conditions, you can save especially valuable specimens in the winter in the apartment. Knowing how to do this, you can grow your favorite variety for years without much hassle.

Wintering petunias

Petunias were brought from South America; many species and hybrids are currently known. For example, F1 (surfinias, superpetunias and other hybrids of this series) do not retain their properties on daughter plants. This picture is often observed when propagating by seeds: the most reliable way to preserve hereditary traits is vegetative reproduction. Some instances, for example, terry varieties, do not give seeds, there are often problems with their germination. Since this flower is actually a perennial, you can pick it up for the winter and in a pot and overexpose it until the onset of heat. And next year, get young and healthy specimens of the variety you like.

home content

To save petunias does not require much effort. The main thing is to create optimal conditions for wintering. It is enough to take them home for the winter and settle on glazed balcony, well-lit frost-free cellar or insulated veranda on the south side. Or put on the windowsill in the entrance, if possible. In order for petunias to winter well, it is necessary:

keep them at a temperature of +10 - +12 0 (the temperature regime can be increased or decreased by a couple of degrees);
water regularly, preventing the soil from completely drying out;
provide humidity, for example, put water nearby;
put the pots on a well-lit windowsill or keep under artificial light.

Important: in order to keep the plant in the winter in the apartment, it is necessary to carefully examine it before bringing it into the room. In early autumn, whiteflies and other pests may lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves. If an infected plant gets into the house, it will die, and the pests will move to other flowers and seedlings.

Wintering benefits:

early flowering: buds will appear already in early spring, when grown from seeds, they appear no earlier than the end of May;
maternal signs persist;
you can get a lot of cuttings and propagate the variety;
you do not have to germinate seeds and care for young sprouts.

mother bushes

To make a perennial out of a petunia, you need to take it home for the winter. To do this, even before frost, in September - October, the flower should be dug up and, together with a clod of earth, transplanted into a pot. Then leave for a couple of days in the open air to reduce stress after transplantation.

Transplant rules:

Pruning: all dry and damaged branches are pruned. You can cut off all the branches on the bush, leaving a length of 10-15 cm.
Transplantation: pour drainage, nutrient soil with compost into the pot, be sure to remove a layer of 2-3 cm from the earth clod and add fresh soil.
Inspection: Leaves should be checked for pests before being brought into the home.
Prevention: pots should be placed in a plastic bag and sprayed with Aktelik or another similar agent. Tie the bag and leave for a day, then wipe with a damp sponge and ventilate. For additional protection you can bury a fertilizer stick with an insecticide and a glycoclandin tablet in the ground.

At home, the mother bush is provided with optimal conditions (temperature, humidity, lighting). Watering should be as the soil dries out, at least 2-3 times a month. Such wintering conditions will not allow the bush to die, and, at the same time, will not allow premature growth and exhaustion. In feeding during this period, the mother plant does not need.

Tip: during wintering, you can spray the mother liquor with zircon or epin a couple of times.

By the end of January, you can begin to awaken the plant. To do this, it is transferred to the most illuminated place, watering is established and they begin to be fed every two weeks with complex fertilizers with nitrogen. With such care, flowering can be expected by mid-February. In the spring, after the onset of stable heat, the mother liquor is transferred to permanent place landings. At the same time, young cuttings can be obtained. Strong young shoots are cut off (it is possible with a heel, but this is not necessary). Prepare cuttings as follows:

green cuttings are cut into 10 cm each;
it is necessary to leave 2 internodes;
the upper leaves are left, the lower ones are removed;
then, for rooting, they are placed in containers with fertile, well-loosened, moist soil and peat or vermiculite to a depth of 2 cm (you can put the cuttings in water that needs to be changed every day);
containers are covered with plastic or glass jar and are ventilated daily, for better air exchange, several holes can be made at the bottom.

In two weeks, the cuttings germinate and take root. Containers are opened, young sprouts are constantly watered, sprayed and fertilized. For better tillering, the top should be pinned. landing on open ground carried out after stable weather is established and the temperature rises to +10 0.

cuttings

To save a petunia until next year, it is not necessary to leave the entire mother bush. You can prepare cuttings in the fall and send home for the winter. Cuttings are carried out in late August - early September. For this, green, non-lignified branches 5–10 cm long are cut off. They are placed in water or in cups with soil. When rooting in the ground, it is better to make a greenhouse, cover with another plastic cup. It will take 10-14 days for roots to appear. At this time, they need to be provided with light and moisture and heat (+20 - +23 0).

After rooting, the sprouts are placed in standard wintering conditions for petunias. They should not be actively watered or fed; young bushes are kept in the same way as mother plants. With the onset of spring, they are transplanted by transshipment to a permanent place. If necessary, new cuttings can be cut before transplanting.

Petunias are truly magnificent flowers of a bright color that look spectacular on a balcony, window sill or in the front garden. The plant is perennial and loves warmth. If with the onset of cold weather you do not take care of comfortable conditions, it will turn into annual plant. That is why many novice agronomists are wondering how to save a petunia until next year or how to cut a petunia for the winter.

Rules for cuttings at home

Petunias are propagated in two main ways: cuttings and seeds. Sowing seeds is not always a rewarding endeavor, as they often do not germinate. And some varieties cannot be propagated in this way at all, because the flowers do not produce seeds. It is much easier to save and preserve plants by cuttings.

If necessary, cuttings can be carried out year-round. In this case, it will be possible to save ampelous varieties and caliberhoa. But most auspicious time for cuttings - winter and spring (especially true for terry varieties).

Petunia cuttings for the winter

How to save a petunia until spring and how does a petunia winter in general? Winter care for a plant in pots in an apartment, cellar or basement is moderate temperature regime, good lighting and reasonable watering. In autumn, it is first necessary to transplant the mother individual in order to store in favorable conditions.

Petunias at home in winter feel most comfortable. Optimum temperature for their content +16 degrees. Raising the temperature is not recommended, otherwise the petunias will need more light. The culture does not need frequent and plentiful watering. To accelerate growth and strengthen the soil, it is recommended to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Advice! In winter, cuttings can be carried out only if the plant has a healthy appearance, grows well, and new leaves form on the stems.

To do this, cuttings are cut off from flowering individuals, a prerequisite is that the processes must have 2 internodes. The length of the cut branches is from 8 to 12 cm. They must be cleaned of lower flowers and leaves. The containers are pre-filled with fertile soil. Can be used universal primer for flowering plants.

If necessary, a drainage layer can be used. Most flower growers are convinced that the presence of a drainage layer is mandatory for cuttings of petunias. But you can do without it.

Landing is carried out without processing the cut. The seedling is not buried very deep in the soil, the growing point must necessarily be above the ground. After planting, the soil should be slightly tamped and watered abundantly. To create greenhouse conditions, plastic bags are put on the containers or covered with plastic bottles. To ventilate the plant, it is recommended to remove the shelter for 20 minutes daily. Otherwise, the likelihood of fungal infections increases. Under such conditions, it is necessary to keep the plant for approximately 2 weeks.

Rooting cuttings includes the same steps as cuttings in spring and summer.

Spring and summer cuttings

cuttings in autumn

Petunia cuttings in autumn

The landing order is the same as in winter, spring and summer.

Cuttings in the soil

At any time of the year, especially in winter, it is convenient to plant cuttings not in water, but in the ground. To do this, you will need to first prepare small containers with fertile soil. For planting small cuttings, it is recommended to use not fertile soil, but peat tablets. This contributes to the growth, development and flowering of young crops.

After three weeks, as a rule, the cuttings are finally rooted in the ground. It is worth taking care that the plant has a lot of personal space, they do not tolerate constraint. If young plants are transplanted into flower pots, containers should also be voluminous. It is strictly forbidden to plant several plants in one pot. The more space for a petunia, the more magnificent it will bloom. For lush flowering bushes are recommended to pinch regularly.

After about 2 months, the plants begin to bloom willingly.

cuttings in water

Also, petunias can be cut in water, but this method cannot be used to breed terry varieties.

Petunia cuttings in water

The cuttings are prepared in the usual way. Branches 10-12 cm long are cut, at least 5 leaves should remain on each seedling. The lower shoots and leaves must be removed. Cut branches are immediately placed in containers with boiled water. room temperature. It is recommended to store plants in a dark place, where they will develop faster. It is better to use containers made of dark material, but not transparent. Cuttings must necessarily create greenhouse conditions, for this they are covered plastic bag or circumcised plastic bottle. As needed, water should be added to the container.

As a rule, after 1.5-2 weeks, roots begin to form in the cuttings. They still need to stand in the water for about a week and after that they can be planted in the soil. Optimal conditions for young shoots in the soil: no drafts, stable air temperature and humidity.

Benefits of keeping petunias in winter

Main advantages:

Lush and early spring flowering. Adult cultures or cuttings taken from them may begin to bloom as early as February or March. This can happen even in regions with unfavorable climatic conditions for this, for example, in Siberia, the Urals, etc.;
Ease of obtaining adult seedling. For this, there is no need to sow seeds, to monitor weak sprouts. Subject to all agrotechnical rules, the planted stalk begins to bloom after 2-2.5 weeks.
Until spring, vegetatively propagated varieties of petunias will be stored.

Advantages and disadvantages of cuttings

There are several ways to propagate a plant, but the cutting method is the simplest. Even a novice agronomist can realize what he wants and extend the life of the plant. Advantages of propagation by cuttings:

All characteristics of the cultivated variety are preserved, including the color of the flowers.
The root system is more actively formed and develops, as a result, the flowers bloom faster.
You can use this method throughout the year.
As practice shows, almost all planted cuttings take root.
Using the seed method of reproduction, it will take much more effort.
The most budgetary way of cultivation of culture. The use of seedlings or seeds is financially costly.

As for the shortcomings, they are absent. The only thing that an agronomist needs to take into service is that the uterine samples, whose shoots will be used for propagation, should not have mechanical damage must be healthy and without obvious signs pest damage. Otherwise, it will not be possible to propagate petunias, young sprouts, most likely, will not take root and will die.

Petunias, despite their attractiveness, are rather wayward and capricious flowers. But if you follow agricultural technology and study all the rules of grafting, it will delight the eye with lush flowering.

Petunia is a plant of southern countries, even in autumn it continues to bloom in a flower bed or flowerpot, not realizing that the cold will come very soon and it will die. To prevent this from happening, the grower should take care of the plant, this is especially important if the variety you love does not produce seeds, and there is nothing to renew it with the advent of spring.

There are two ways to save petunias in winter time- cuttings or mother plant.

To preserve the uterine, it is removed from the ground along with a clod of earth, placed in a spacious container and brought into the room - it should be light and with an acceptable temperature of at least + 10-15 degrees.

When transplanting, which is carried out with the onset of autumn, damaged and dried leaves and shoots are removed. Healthy branches are cut to 10-15 cm. If the petunia grew in a flowerpot, you don’t need to dig it out - you just have to bring it into the room and create the necessary conditions.

Petunia and at home

Growing petunias from seeds at home necessarily involves picking. An exception is the method when peat tablets are used when growing seedlings. After the sprouts gain strength, they will acquire five to six full-fledged leaves, they can be planted in separate containers. This process is called picking, it must be done very carefully so as not to damage the fragile root system.

From now on, seedlings need to be accustomed to periodic hardening. At first, 10-15 minutes of the plants staying where it is cool - 10-15ºC - will be enough, with the subsequent increase in time.

If you want the future petunia bushes to be lush, densely branched, then be sure to pinch (you can do it more than once). To do this, cut the stem growth point at the level of about the 5th leaf - this technique provokes the growth of new shoots from the axils of the remaining leaves.

When the seedlings gain strength, maybe even give the first ones, the petunia can be planted in a flower bed.

Petunia care in winter

It should be minimal, so that the soil does not dry out, and the stretching shoots should be pinched. At the end of February, you can already start cuttings.

The strongest shoots are taken from the plant and cut into cuttings with 2-3 internodes, the lower leaves are removed. The cuttings are treated with a tool for root formation (rhizomes or enin) and planted in a substrate with top layer river sand 3-4 cm thick, this will prevent possible rotting of the cuttings due to overflow.

Further care as for ordinary seedlings, followed by planting in the ground.

How to water a petunia

Water the petunia generously, so that the water begins to come out of the drainage holes. In this case, there will be confidence that the clod of earth has been completely wetted. Usually in the summer the petunia is watered 2 times a day - in the morning and in the evening. Important Rule: Never start watering if the hot sun is shining on the flowers. You will ensure that the roots in moist soil begin to "cook", and this can lead to the death of the plant. According to the orientation of your balcony, work out your own watering schedule. For example, if the direct rays of the sun fall on it from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., then water the plantings at 7 a.m. And at 3 pm (or a little later, for example, immediately, as soon as you come home from work in the evening).

Please note that in May - early June, when petunias are already sleeping on the balcony (street), it is still quite cool at night. Therefore, try not to water the plants late in the evening to avoid hypothermia of the roots. The same can be said about autumn - September and October. In summer, such precautions are irrelevant.

Petunia shower

On dry summer days, petunias should be sprayed warm water from a spray bottle. This will be a good prevention against spider mite and saturate the plant with moisture from the outside. Evening abundant spraying has a great effect on the condition of petunias, making them healthier and stronger. Spraying should be done when the sun leaves your balcony. Otherwise, sunburns will definitely remain on the plants - the rays will pass through drops of water, as if through lenses and burn through the leaf plate.

Petunia cuttings

Cuttings are an excellent, labor-intensive way to propagate this flower. High rooting rate easy care behind the bushes - the advantages of this method.

To do this, you need to cut off the upper cuttings from a full-fledged, strong plant, about 10-12 cm long. It is worth mentioning that on this occasion the opinions of experienced gardeners are divided, as some advise to select for cuttings side shoots located at the root of the plant. It is worth noting that both options work well, subsequently give a positive result.

Reproduction by cuttings of petunias is carried out closer to autumn (end of August - September). The lower leaves are removed from the segments of the stem, and they themselves are briefly immersed in a container with a solution of a biostimulating drug, for example, Rhizome. After that, the cuttings are seated in cups, shade them. The soil (or sand) where the cuttings were placed should always be moistened. You can also use pure vermiculite.

The roots of the shoots are formed already on the 7th or 10th day. After rooting, the cuttings can be transplanted - small pots with a diameter of 12-15 cm are just right. Here the petunia can survive the winter. Feeding rooted cuttings with complex fertilizers is very important.

How to cut a petunia

In order for the root system of the plant to be well formed, the cuttings must be lowered for some time into a solution with phytohormones.

Since the root system of a petunia is very powerful and dense, you should not neglect caring for it, since it is the roots that will influence the further development of the flower.

After that, the cuttings are planted in boxes with wet sand or loose soil, the planting depth is 4 cm. The cuttings should be planted close to each other, literally 2-3 cm apart.

Then the earth can be pressed with your hands and watered.

The box should be placed in a bright place, previously covered with a film or glass.

When to cut a petunia

I transplant terry petunias in early August, so that the plant still has time to take root well, they tolerate transplantation quite simply, it is advisable to dig it out with big ball earth.

As for the varieties of ampelous petunias, I plant them in separate pots in the spring and bring them into the house with the onset of cold weather. You can also transplant them in the middle of summer, but I noticed that non-transplanted ampel varieties are better preserved.

If you don’t want to touch the plant in the flowerbed in the summer, you can cut cuttings from it in late June - early August, root them and save the already rooted petunia for the winter. According to my observations, such plants tolerate winter more easily in an apartment.

Petunias root easily. WITH flowering plant I cut cuttings with two internodes, cut the leaves. It is better to use not the apical parts of the shoots, but the lateral basal offspring 7-9 cm long. I make the lower cut of the cutting at the very internode, dip it in rhizomes, plant it in cups and put it in the shade. The main thing is to carefully monitor that the soil does not dry out. Roots appear after 7-10 days. Rooted cuttings are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 12-15 cm, in which they will winter. Plants must be fed with complex fertilizer.

There are 2 options for saving petunias for the winter:

in the form of mother plants
in the form of cuttings

Preservation of mother bushes of petunia in winter

Adult petunia bushes can be preserved until spring if they are moved to a bright and frost-free room. It should be light, humid enough, optimal t \u003d 10-15 ° C (but less will do, the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C). Suitable conditions are covered verandas, insulated or southern loggias, on window sills of entrances.

Petunia bushes are dug up, transplanted into pots and brought into the room. You need to have time to do this before frost, that is, in September - November. Dry leaves, damaged, rotten branches are cut off from the plant. A cardinal haircut is also practiced: all branches are cut to 10-15 cm /

For winter storage petunia cuttings in late August - September. This petunia propagates easily by cuttings, since the life processes in it have not yet been slowed down. Roots appear in 5-10 days after planting.

Cuttings 5-10 cm long are cut from petunias, planted in cups, covered with a “wig”. After rooting, they are placed in a cool, bright place. For example, on the windowsill, closer to the glass. To increase the humidity of the content, a jar of water can be placed near young petunias.

The main conditions for keeping rooted petunia cuttings in winter:

Sufficient watering - after drying the topsoil;

spraying;
lack of fertilizers;
increase in air humidity (tanks with water next to the cuttings).

In the spring, cuttings that have already taken shape in young petunia bushes can be transferred to balcony containers or planted in a flower bed. You can also cut them again and grow the required amount from new cuttings. planting material.

To keep the beautiful begonia until the next season, it is necessary to properly organize her dormant period. In most cases, with the advent of summer and the onset of warm, fine days, flower growers try to bring their plants to open air. Even the begonias that live in room conditions, on the street feel much better. They actively gain green mass, form new shoots and buds. In anticipation of cold weather, a pot with a plant from the street must be moved indoors. Now it's time to prepare it for rest, which means that watering needs to be reduced. In principle, they begin to water the bush less often even while they are in the fresh air, and when the flower “moves” into the house, the soil does not need to be moistened at all. After all, the tubers should be able to dry before being stored. If possible, the plant can be left in a pot for the winter. Previously, all shoots will need to be cut. Put the pot in dry room with a stable positive air temperature, for example, in the basement. In the absence of a basement, the tubers should be stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. Before laying for storage, the begonia should be removed from the flowerpot and freed from the substrate. Next, carry out the following activities:

cut off the shoot from the tuber;
cut the roots with scissors;
leave the tubers to dry well.

Put peat in a bag and place begonia tubers there. Instead of peat, it is good to use moss - sphagnum.

Temperature requirement for petunias until next year

The ideal temperature for wintering is 10-15°C, if it is less, it’s not scary, the main thing is not below 0°C. For this, the plants need to be dug up, placed in pots before the onset of the first cold weather (September - November), the most optimal time for this is mid-August. All dried, spoiled leaves should be removed. You can do it more radically - cut all the branches up to 10-12 cm. To comfortably survive the winter, it is enough to water the petunia 2 or 3 times a month.

Soil requirement

Petunia does not impose special requirements on the soil. But if you want to get decorative bushes then:

Add compost or humus to the future bed;
Do not apply fresh manure;
Apply lime if soil acidity is below pH5.5;
When digging a flower bed in spring, add a complex (nitrophoska)

mature plant Petunias already have a strong, well-branched root system, so a large capacity is needed to grow a plant (5-6 liters per plant).

Petunia loves regular feeding. As you remember, for the first time they began to feed her two weeks after the pick. At a young age, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers for growth predominates. For bookmarking buds and abundant flowering need potassium and phosphorus. An adult plant needs to be fed every 5-7 days.

Regular removal of faded flowers and seed pods will prolong the overall flowering of the bush. To get a bushy lush specimen, the petunia must be pinched over the third - fifth leaf.

There are two ways to save petunias in the winter - cuttings or a mother plant.

To preserve the mother plant, it is removed from the ground along with a clod of earth, placed in a spacious container and brought into the room - it should be light and with an acceptable temperature of at least + 10-15 degrees.

Petunia growing and care at home

From now on, seedlings need to be accustomed to periodic hardening. At first, 10-15 minutes of the plants staying where it is cool - 10-15ºC - will be enough, with the subsequent increase in time.

If you want the future petunia bushes to be lush, densely branched, then be sure to pinch (you can do it more than once). To do this, you need to cut off the growth point of the stem at the level of about the 5th leaf - this technique provokes the growth of new shoots from the axils of the remaining leaves.

When the seedlings gain strength, maybe even give the first flowers, the petunia can be planted in a flower bed.

Petunia care in winter

Watering should be minimal, so that the soil does not dry out, and stretching shoots should be pinched. At the end of February, you can already start cuttings.

The strongest shoots are taken from the plant and cut into cuttings with 2-3 internodes, the lower leaves are removed. The cuttings are treated with a tool for root formation (rhizomes or enin) and planted in a substrate with a top layer of river sand 3-4 cm thick, this will prevent possible rotting of the cuttings due to overflow.

Further care as for ordinary seedlings, followed by planting in the ground.

How to water a petunia

Water the petunia generously, so that the water begins to come out of the drainage holes. In this case, there will be confidence that the clod of earth has been completely wetted. Usually in the summer the petunia is watered 2 times a day - in the morning and in the evening. An important rule: never start watering if the hot sun is shining on the flowers. You will ensure that the roots in moist soil begin to "cook", and this can lead to the death of the plant. According to the orientation of your balcony, work out your own watering schedule. For example, if the direct rays of the sun fall on it from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., then water the plantings at 7 a.m. And at 3 pm (or a little later, for example, immediately, as soon as you come home from work in the evening).

Petunia shower

On dry summer days, petunias should be sprayed with warm water from a spray bottle. This will be a good prevention against spider mites and saturate the plant with moisture from the outside. Evening abundant spraying has a great effect on the condition of petunias, making them healthier and stronger. Spraying should be done when the sun leaves your balcony. Otherwise, sunburns will definitely remain on the plants - the rays will pass through drops of water, as if through lenses and burn through the leaf plate.

Petunia cuttings

Cuttings are an excellent, labor-intensive way to propagate this flower. A high percentage of rooting, simple care for the bushes are the advantages of this method.

To do this, you need to cut off the upper cuttings from a full-fledged, strong plant, about 10-12 cm long. It is worth mentioning that on this occasion the opinions of experienced gardeners are divided, as some advise to select side shoots for cuttings, which are located at the root of the plant. It is worth noting that both options work well, subsequently give a positive result.

How to cut a petunia

In order for the root system of the plant to be well formed, the cuttings must be lowered for some time into a solution with phytohormones.

Since the root system of a petunia is very powerful and dense, you should not neglect caring for it, since it is the roots that will influence the further development of the flower.

After that, the cuttings are planted in boxes with wet sand or loose soil, the planting depth is 4 cm. The cuttings should be planted close to each other, literally 2-3 cm apart.

Then the earth can be pressed with your hands and watered.

The box should be placed in a bright place, previously covered with a film or glass.

When to cut a petunia

I transplant terry petunias in early August so that the plant still has time to take root well, they tolerate transplanting quite simply, it is advisable to dig it up with a large clod of earth.

Petunias root easily. From a flowering plant, I cut cuttings with two internodes, cut the leaves. It is better to use not the apical parts of the shoots, but the lateral basal offspring 7-9 cm long. I make the lower cut of the cutting at the very internode, dip it in rhizomes, plant it in cups and put it in the shade. The main thing is to carefully monitor that the soil does not dry out. Roots appear after 7-10 days. Rooted cuttings are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 12-15 cm, in which they will winter. Plants must be fed with complex fertilizer.

How to save petunia until spring

There are 2 options for saving petunias for the winter:

in the form of mother plants
in the form of cuttings

Preservation of mother bushes of petunia in winter

Adult petunia bushes can be preserved until spring if they are moved to a bright and frost-free room. It should be light, humid enough, optimal t \u003d 10-15 ° C (but less will do, the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C). Suitable conditions are on closed verandas, insulated or southern loggias, on window sills of entrances.

For winter storage, petunias are cut in late August - September. This petunia propagates easily by cuttings, since the life processes in it have not yet been slowed down. Roots appear in 5-10 days after planting.

The main conditions for keeping rooted petunia cuttings in winter:

Sufficient watering - after drying the topsoil;

spraying;
lack of fertilizers;
increase in air humidity (tanks with water next to the cuttings).

In the spring, cuttings that have already taken shape in young petunia bushes can be transferred to balcony containers or planted in a flower bed. They can also be cut again and the required amount of planting material can be grown from new cuttings.

How to save petunias until next year?

To keep the beautiful begonia until the next season, it is necessary to properly organize her dormant period. In most cases, with the advent of summer and the onset of warm, fine days, flower growers try to take their plants out into the open air. Even indoor begonias feel much better outdoors. They actively gain green mass, form new shoots and buds. In anticipation of cold weather, a pot with a plant from the street must be moved indoors. Now it's time to prepare it for rest, which means that watering needs to be reduced. In principle, they begin to water the bush less often even while they are in the fresh air, and when the flower “moves” into the house, the soil does not need to be moistened at all. After all, the tubers should be able to dry before being stored. If possible, the plant can be left in a pot for the winter. Previously, all shoots will need to be cut. Place the pot in a dry room with a stable positive air temperature, for example, in a basement. In the absence of a basement, the tubers should be stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. Before laying for storage, the begonia should be removed from the flowerpot and freed from the substrate. Next, carry out the following activities:

cut off the shoot from the tuber;
cut the roots with scissors;
leave the tubers to dry well.

Put peat in a bag and place begonia tubers there. Instead of peat, it is good to use moss - sphagnum.

Temperature requirement for petunias until next year

Apply lime if soil acidity is below pH5.5;

When digging a flower bed in spring, add complex fertilizer (nitrophoska)

An adult petunia plant already has a strong, well-branched root system, so a large capacity is needed to grow a plant (5-6 liters per plant).

Petunia loves regular feeding. As you remember, for the first time they began to feed her two weeks after the pick. At a young age, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers for growth predominates. For bookmarking buds and abundant flowering, potassium and phosphorus are needed. An adult plant needs to be fed every 5-7 days.

Regular removal of faded flowers and seed pods will prolong the overall flowering of the bush. To get a bushy lush specimen, the petunia must be pinched over the third - fifth leaf.

Petunia in winter: how to keep petunia until spring The cold is coming, and the petunia on your site or balcony continues to delight in lush color. Soon this beauty will come to an end, but it's a pity ... Well, there is nowhere to go from the cycle of seasons, but you can try to save the petunia bushes for the winter. Petunia, at its core, is a heat-loving perennial, therefore, by creating “southern” conditions for it, we can extend its life. So, now we will reveal the secret of how to save a petunia in winter. Wintering petunias - an action for the elite We hasten to warn you right away: keeping petunia bushes in winter is not an easy task. Although, this is the best way out if you want to keep a particularly expensive, luxurious variety that does not produce seeds or does not retain all its properties in daughter plants. For example, this is useful for surfinia, supertunia and many other F1 hybrids. There are 2 options for preserving petunias for the winter: in the form of mother plants in the form of cuttings Option No. 1. Preservation of mother petunia bushes in winter Adult petunia bushes can be preserved until spring if they are moved to a bright and frost-free room. It should be light, humid enough, optimal t = 10-15 ° C (but less will do, the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C). Suitable conditions are on closed verandas, insulated or southern loggias, on window sills of entrances. Petunia bushes are dug up, transplanted into pots and brought into the room. You need to have time to do this before frost, that is, in September-November. Dry leaves, damaged, rotten branches are cut off from the plant. A cardinal haircut is also practiced: all branches are cut to 10-15 cm. The main conditions for caring for petunia bushes in winter are: minimal watering (up to 2-3 times a month); lack of fertilizers; high air humidity; temperature 10-15°C; good lighting. In such conditions, petunias safely survive the winter and bloom in mid-February! Then more frequent watering and fertilizing can be “introduced” into the diet. A petunia bush that has survived the winter is planted in open ground or in balcony containers. Or they act differently: they propagate the petunia by cuttings and grow young petunia plants. The latter option is more common among flower growers. It is believed (and not unreasonably!) that young petunias bloom better than sophomores. How are cuttings of petunias carried out? In the spring, cuttings of 5-10 cm are cut from the overwintered petunia bush - green, not lignified. The lower leaves on the handle are cut off so that a bare stem 1-3 cm long remains at the base. It is important that this site has at least 1 pair of internodes. 2-3 leaves should remain at the top of the cutting. If they are large, then their plates are cut across half - to reduce the evaporation of moisture. The bare part of the stem is deepened into moist, loose soil. A vapor barrier is arranged on top to keep high humidity around the cuttings. For example, cover the landing capacity plastic cup, glass jar or glass. Every day, the "greenhouse" is aired - to prevent the appearance of mold, rot, black legs on the handle. After about 10-14 days, young shoots will appear in the axils of the cuttings - this means that rooting has taken place! The greenhouse is removed, the cuttings continue to grow in the same way as petunia seedlings: watered, fertilized, sprayed. Above 5-6 leaves, young plants are pinched for tillering. In March-April (depending on the region), when stable positive temperatures of 10-12 ° C are established, rooted cuttings are planted for permanent residence - in open ground or in balcony containers. Option number 2. Saving petunias in winter by cuttings Keeping petunia mother liquor in winter requires special conditions - high humidity and low temperatures. In a city apartment, with a non-glazed (or glazed, but cold northern) balcony, such a climate is almost impossible to recreate. In living quarters, there are more chances of survival not for adult petunias, but for rooted cuttings. They don't need special conditions and you need to care for them in the same way as for indoor flowers. This method will also help those flower growers who do not want to clutter up verandas, balconies and loggias in winter with large containers with petunia mother liquors. Cuttings in cups on the windowsills take up very little space! For winter storage, petunias are cut in late August-September. This petunia propagates easily by cuttings, since the life processes in it have not yet been slowed down. Roots appear in 5-10 days after planting. Cuttings 5-10 cm long are cut from petunias, planted in cups, covered with a "greenhouse". After rooting, they are placed in a cool, bright place. For example, on the windowsill, closer to the glass. To increase the humidity of the content, a jar of water can be placed near young petunias. The main conditions for keeping rooted petunia cuttings in winter are: sufficient watering - after drying the topsoil; spraying; lack of fertilizers; increase in air humidity (tanks with water next to the cuttings). In the spring, cuttings that have already taken shape in young petunia bushes can be transferred to balcony containers or planted in a flower bed. They can also be cut again and the required amount of planting material can be grown from new cuttings. Advantages of keeping petunias in winter (cuttings or mature plants) The main advantages of keeping petunias for the winter: early spring flowering. An adult "second-year" plant or cuttings taken from it can bloom as early as February-March. And this will happen even in the northern regions, such as the Urals, Siberia, etc. ease in obtaining adult seedlings. To do this, you do not need to sow small seeds, nurse frail sprouts. The planted stalk, after 2-2.5 weeks, will already bloom. preservation until spring of vegetatively propagating varieties of petunia.

Is it possible to transplant a petunia home for the winter. Petunia in winter as a uterine and flowering houseplant. Cuttings of petunias

Wintering petunias

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