How to grow geraniums at home from seeds. Optimal temperature and lighting. Pelargonium in the garden, photo

More recently, bush blooming geraniums on the windowsill was a mandatory attribute of a prosperous family. It was believed that pelargonium is the keeper of the hearth. The unpretentious plant made room and gave way to new types of flowers. Geranium is not forgotten, often at home care gives the first experience and develops into a hobby.

The history of the appearance of geraniums and the variety of varieties

At the end of the 16th century, either from India or from Africa, travelers brought flower seeds of an unprecedented fragrant plant with beautiful flower caps. At the court of the English queen there already existed a beautiful winter Garden with exotic plants. There the first three varieties of geraniums appeared. They laid the foundation for numerous groups obtained in the course of selection.

There are so many varieties of pelargonium that even the classification goes according to different criteria. Talking about indoor flowers, we use the classification by decorative effect:

• zonal;
• ampelous;
• fragrant;
• succulent.

There are also varieties "Angels" and "Unicums". They all tolerate well. room conditions life and good care bloom almost continuously. Pelargoniums differ in the shape and color of leaves and buds, but all are invariably fragrant and their ethers are healing.

In summer, geraniums are exposed under an open window. It is believed that the plant on the windowsill expels flies from the dwelling. Leaves are applied to abrasions and cuts for quick healing of the wound.

How to properly care for geraniums?

Reproduction of pelargonium will not create difficulties. It is enough to tear off the petiole from the plant or buy a bag of seeds. The seed method of propagation of pelargonium gives a more spectacular plant with large caps of flowers.

Cuttings can be quickly obtained flowering plant. Rooting can occur both after rooting in water, and when rooting in the ground. Since the plant takes root easily, you can create a mini-greenhouse and plant several petioles. Later, after soaking the substrate, disassemble them and plant them in separate bowls.

Soils for pelargonium have a different composition:

• the earth is leafy, humus, sod in equal shares plus half of the sand;
• if the sheet earth is replaced by, then the proportions of all components, including sand, are the same;
• garden soil, peat and sand in equal proportions.

You can buy special soil for these plants in a flower shop. In this case, any soil should first be disinfected by any available method. The container with a drainage hole should not be spacious, pelargonium blooms if the roots are cramped.

The place where the geranium was placed should be sunny. IN winter time the flower loves to relax. During the dormant period, the temperature drops to 13=15 degrees and shading is created. But if it is impossible to provide such conditions, then there is a rule, the warmer, the higher the illumination, up to the backlight. And then the plant will not feel discomfort.

In winter, pelargonium can not be fed.

Geraniums are watered every other day in the summer when it is hot, but waterlogging can lead to root rot, black leg. Therefore, water more often in summer, rarely in winter. Geranium will survive the drought and recover, and excess water can kill it. It is worth recalling that the water for irrigation should be warm and settled. Fertilizers with liquid flower formulations are done in a week, except for the dormant period. For geraniums, a special mixture has been released, called "Pelargovit".

As soon as the roots begin to make their way into the drainage hole of the pot, the pelargonium needs to be transplanted. The plant is transplanted in early spring after 1-2 years. During the growing season, the soil must be loosened, while checking whether pests or diseases have settled on the plant.

There are few reasons why pelargonium does not bloom. The appearance of the plant will help identify the problem.

1. The plant has good leaves, develops quickly, but does not bloom. There is fat. Stop fertilizing watering and dry the flower. If the container is large, until the roots fill the spaces, there will be no flowering.
2. Lacks . Put the plant in direct sunlight, in the absence of bright southern windows in the apartment, organize additional lighting.
3. If a yellow border appears on the leaves, the plant has an oppressed appearance, check for the presence of root and stem rot. Check the leaves for the presence of whitefly or other insects.

Detailed information about pelargonium diseases and how to deal with them can be found on the site. We can say that problems arise from improper care. Often, a pest or disease is introduced with soil or a new plant that has not passed quarantine exposure. Therefore, hygiene requirements are important, since it is difficult to eradicate the disease at home.

The plant loses its decorative effect when the air is dry, overfeeding with nitrogenous fertilizers or the appearance of a false powdery mildew. Timely detection of the disease will allow you to save the plant or take cuttings from it.

Video about pelargonium

From the Geraniev family, which is distinguished by large and colorful inflorescences. Geranium took root and became incredibly popular among home flowers. Unpretentiousness in care, the ability to clean and moisturize the air well, an abundance of species, tenderness and good looks, a pleasant smell - all these advantages have turned the plant into a favorite of many housewives. Buying pelargonium already in a pot is too expensive; growing geraniums from seeds will be much more profitable.

planting material requirements

If the package indicates that the seeds are not prepared for sowing or you just have some doubts, then they should be treated with phytohormones (,), and then soaked in warm water for a few hours. With the help of such simple manipulations, it is possible to accelerate the germination of grains and improve their quality.

With seeds collected at home, things are not so simple. First, they need to be sanded with sandpaper to clean the rough top layer, and then processed and soaked.
In the case of domestic seeds, the probability of getting good seedlings very small. This is due to the fact that during seed propagation, hybrid varieties of pelargonium are likely to lose the genes of the mother plant.

soil mixture

Because planting material dry, seed planting requires loose soil. It should be of medium density and not too clayey. You can buy it ready-made in the store, there is a special mixture for geraniums, or you can cook it yourself at home.

To do this, you will need one of the following proportions:

• , sand, turf (1:1:2);
• sand, peat (1:1);
• , peat (1:1).

It is best to use the first version of the mixture, since with a two-component soil composition, geraniums will need to be looked after more carefully in the future.

Important! Choose quality ingredients for the soil, otherwise poor soil will simply ruin the seeds.

On the other hand, for some species this does not play a special role.

Container for growing seedlings

The container for growing pelargonium seedlings can be divided into two types: separate and joint. Both landing methods are equally effective, but they have their own nuances.

Individual packaging for each seed means small, usually plastic containers, disposable cups, For example. The advantage of a separate container is the fact that when planting seedlings in a pot, the root system of the plant will definitely not be affected.

The total growing capacity requires sowing each seed at a distance of 5-7 centimeters from each other. This is done so that the roots of pelargonium do not grow together and can be safely planted.
It is advised to choose a not very small container for growing a flower. It must have enough space not only for soil, but also for drainage material at the bottom. In its quality, screenings or other small pebbles are suitable.

At the bottom of the container for seedlings, you can not do without drainage holes. They are needed so that the root system has access to oxygen and can release excess moisture.

Accordingly, it is worth taking care of a small stand for the container so that there is no excess dirt around.

Sowing seeds

Tips on how to plant geraniums from seeds are not much different from recommendations for other flowers. Consider the seeding algorithm:

1. We select a container and fill it with material, and then with soil.
2. We lay out the seeds.
3. We sprinkle them a little with soil or sand (the seeds should be under a layer of soil no more than 3-4 centimeters, otherwise they will germinate for a long time).
4. We moisten the soil with a spray bottle.
5. We put the container on a lighted window or other place, cover it with a film, glass. We are waiting for the result.

Important! The temperature for growing should be at room temperature (about +23 ° C).

Conditions and care of crops

Remember to keep the soil slightly moist, open the film or glass once a day for a few minutes so that oxygen can get there. If you do everything right, then within a month shoots will already be visible.

Conditions and care for seedlings

When shoots appear, the glass or film is removed. While the plants are still small, they are very sensitive, weak and require special attention. They should be stored where there is no wind or draft, because a small impact can break a thin and fragile stem.

Don't Forget the Indirect sunlight, now it is extremely necessary for geraniums, as it contributes to the growth of the flower and all the chemical processes inside. Make sure you have enough water, but don't overdo it.

It is best to water the seedlings daily in small portions. Experienced housewives are advised to dose water with an ordinary pipette. In summer, as a rule, watering should be more abundant than in winter.
If the droplets remain on the stems, they can provoke the appearance of black dots on them, which indicates a seedling disease. Having noticed them, be sure to water the seedlings with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or phytoalcohol. Such actions will fix everything, and nothing will threaten your plant.

Try to constantly monitor the temperature in which the plants are located. It must be reduced to +20...+16 °C.

If it becomes lower than indicated, then there is a risk that the seedlings will succumb to hypothermia and it will be impossible to save it.

The first leaf should grow back in 1-2 weeks if you take good care of the seedlings. Subsequent growth depends on room temperature, soil quality, pelargonium variety and seed storage time.

Further transplant

The signal that the time has come to transplant the seedlings into pots will be the appearance of 2-3 leaves on the seedlings. It is at this age that the plants are ready for picking. You do not need to choose a flower pot that is too large, a container with a diameter of about 10 centimeters will be enough.

In the future, you may need another transplant into larger pots, but this will happen over time. Recommend containers from natural material clay works well. This will help protect the plant from overheating and will retain moisture longer, which means that pelargonium will not require frequent.

Familiar to many indoor pelargonium, it turns out that it grows well in the open field: in the garden and in the flower bed, in city squares and hanging planters. The main thing is to choose the right variety and provide the perennial decorative culture with proper care. And, although the decoratively attractive pelargonium is very unpretentious and hardy, there are still certain rules and requirements for cultivating a plant in your garden. How to grow pelargonium yourself? How to properly care for pelargonium? How to save a flower in winter? Having studied all the features and preferences of the perennial, it will be possible to contemplate the gracefully beautiful pelargonium in your garden every year.

Pelargonium in the garden, plant description

What does pelargonium look like and how does it differ from geranium?

• The genus Pelargonium belongs to the Geraniev family and is a perennial herbaceous plant or shrub.
• South Africa is considered the natural habitat of a flowering fragrant culture. Currently decorative flower widespread in many countries.

• Pelargonium is a light-loving, drought-resistant and heat-loving plant.
• Perennial stems are straight or creeping, well branched.
• Simple leaves of pelargonium have a palmate or palmately dissected shape characteristic of the geranium family.
• The main advantage of the pelargonium flower is colorful, various shades and textured lines, umbrella-shaped inflorescences. Depending on the varieties, there are few and many-flowered specimens of pelargonium. The size of the corolla also varies from 2 to 5 cm.

• The flowering of pelargonium, which occurs in the summer, is characterized by abundance and duration. The fruit-box when ripe opens from the bottom up.
• Garden pelargonium retains its decorative attractive appearance until winter. Even faded bushes look neat and compact. Unfortunately, in winter, heat-loving pelargonium needs warmth, so, if necessary, it is transplanted and brought into the room.
• The life expectancy of perennial pelargonium averages 2-5 years, after which the culture loses its original decorative effect and needs to be updated.
• Pelargonium and geranium (also called crail) are different plants of separate genera of the same, common family. Geranium is successfully cultivated in the open field, including the winter cold without difficulty. What can not be said about a native of the southern regions, pelargonium. Growing a beauty - pelargonium in the garden, we repeat that it is a heat-loving plant, which is placed in a warm room for the winter.

Pelargonium, types and varieties

The genus Pelargonium has more than 200 species of plants, the most popular of which are the following varieties:

Pelargonium royal

The species is characterized by the small size of wide bushes with large and beautiful flowers (up to 15 cm in diameter). The peduncles of the plant do not rise above the bush, but are on the same level with all the shoots. Often the species is called "domestic", as the most common form of home floriculture. Outwardly, the bush looks impressive and attractive, like a bright fluffy ball.

Pelargonium tulipovidnaya

The main feature of tulip-shaped pelargonium is flowers resembling unopened buds tulips. About 50 small semi-double flowers are collected in fluffy inflorescences. The color of the inflorescences is varied: from light pink to deep burgundy. Leaves are shiny and hard.

Pelargonium rosebud

The main feature of the irresistible pelargonium is unusual flowers like miniature roses. Numerous terry flower petals fit snugly together, forming lush bud-like inflorescences. The species belongs to the zonal hybrids of pelargonium.

Pelargonium terry

Pelargonium stands out with beautiful and very attractive double inflorescences. The color of the petals is varied, depending on the variety.

The best varieties of pelargonium: Pebbles (crimson flowers), Shelk Moira (gentle salmon flowers), Brookside Fantasy (lilac flowers).

Pelargonium angular

A tall plant that can reach a height of up to 100 cm. Unusual in shape, short-leaved leaves are similar to oak, but with wavy lobes. The inflorescence-umbrella consists of many flowers, usually bright red.

Pelargonium capitate

An evergreen shrub, not exceeding a height of more than 50 cm. The stems and leaves are pubescent, bright green in color. Sedentary flowers are collected in an umbrella inflorescence and have a pink-purple color of the petals. Fragrant leaves in texture resemble crumpled, clearly divided into 3-5 parts.

Pelargonium curly

Strongly branching evergreen and low (up to 50 cm) shrub with fragrant leaves in the shape of a heart. The leaves grow in two rows, have jagged or torn edges. Short pedicels bear 2-3 flowers. Blooms in summer.

Pelargonium fluffy

Succulent deciduous plant characterized by thick creeping stems and pinnately lobed leaves. The leaf blade has a bluish color, may be pubescent. Snow-white flowers with a reddish core are collected 5-6 pieces in an umbrella inflorescence.

Pelargonium fleshy

A short (about 30 cm) succulent perennial characterized by thickened cracking shoots with convex nodes. The pubescent leaves are dense, with distinct venation. The small flowers are mostly white or pale beige, with the top two petals having reddish veins.

Pelargonium thick-stemmed

A small plant with a thickened short (no more than 20 cm) stem. The leaf is long-petiolate, wide, with silvery pubescence. The inflorescence consists of 5-8 umbrellas. The color of the corolla varies from white to yellow, pink or purple. Many varieties also have pronounced (contrasting) petal markings.

Pelargonium fragrant

A strongly branching evergreen shrub that can reach a height of 1 meter. The leaves are very fragrant, divided into 5-7 lobes. Pink-colored flowers are collected in an umbrella inflorescence.

Pelargonium grandiflora

Whimsical capricious appearance, preferring warm content. The height of compact bushes can reach from 30 to 60 cm. The inflorescences are large and corrugated.

The best varieties of pelargonium: Enzette Anna Melle, Geranimo (red flowers), Mont Blanc, Perle von Clemstal (spotted flowers), Autumn Haze ( orange flowers), Destiny (white flowers).

Pelargonium klobuchkovy

A variety of pelargonium with terry densely pubescent foliage. The leaves are bright green, long-petiolate. Inflorescences are painted in purple-red tones. Flowering occurs in the summer-autumn period.

Pelargonium soiling

A very tall evergreen shrub that can grow up to one and a half meters. The fleshy stem is seated with dark green, rounded leaves. On short pedicels are bright scarlet inflorescences.

Pelargonium ivy

The semi-shrub species of ampelous pelargonium is widely used for horizontal and vertical gardening. It is considered a highly frost-sensitive species. Decorative foliage outwardly resembles ivy leaves, they do not emit a characteristic smell for geraniums and do not have pubescence. Thyroid inflorescences are few-flowered, terry, variegated.

The best varieties of pelargonium: Mustang (scarlet flowers), Pygmy (cherry, pink flowers), Red Pandora (cherry flowers), Cascade White (orange flowers).

Pelargonium pink

An evergreen branching shrub characterized by bilateral pubescence of leaves. The species has pink flowers, with dark contrasting streaks.

Pelargonium zonal

View with a clearly defined leaf pattern, drought-resistant. The variety is widely used in decorative floriculture. The plant withstands cooling down to 5-6 0 С.

The best varieties of pelargonium: Meteor (undersized), Rocky Mountain (salmon-raspberry flowers), Rumba Fire (bright red flowers), Bravo Pastel (white-pink flowers).

Planting pelargonium, features and agricultural technology

The genus Pelargonium is considered to be very hardy and unpretentious, which facilitates the process of rooting and quick survival of the plant when planted in open ground.

Planting time for pelargonium is spring, moreover, when warm weather is fully established and the soil warms up well. In many regions, this period falls on the month of May. If the perennial is planted in pots or containers, they can be taken outside earlier, taking care of protection from recurrent frosts.

Choosing a place for planting pelargonium

• Light-loving pelargonium prefers open areas, with scattering sunbeams. Light partial shade also allows the flower to fully develop and bloom throughout the season. In the shade and in the hot sun, pelargonium will not be able to fully grow and bloom.
• The soil for planting pelargonium in the garden should be fertile, light and drained. The plant responds favorably to peat, humus and sand present in the soil. High content organic matter in the soil can adversely affect the decorativeness of pelargonium and weaken the plant to diseases.
• Dense loamy and clay soil is not suitable for planting a flower. The reaction of the medium should be neutral or slightly acidic.

Pelargonium planting technology

• Before planting, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil: dig the site (to a depth of 30 cm), apply mineral fertilizers and humus, level the entire surface with a rake. It is better to do this in advance, for example, in the fall.
• In the garden, on open ground, pelargonium is planted, as a rule, with seedlings.

• The distance between planted seedlings in a flower bed should be at least 20 cm. Approximately the same interval is maintained in the aisle. If the type of pelargonium is large and sprawling, these indicators increase. When pelargonium seedlings are planted in hanging planters or street containers - the distance between plants can, on the contrary, be reduced.
• Digging a planting hole for pelargonium, seedlings are buried in the soil 2-3 cm deeper than they grew before (in seedling pots). Such agrotechnical technique allows a young and immature plant to form additional roots in the nearest time after planting.

• If the grown seedling material turned out to be elongated and slightly thinned, the plant must be pinched before planting in the ground. In this case, the flower will bloom a little later, but the bush itself will quickly get stronger and take root in a new place.

Pelargonium, care in the garden

As noted above, pelargonium is considered a perennial plant, although in many regions (with cold winters) the culture simply freezes out in winter. Therefore, when growing an ornamental flower, it is important to take into account its heat-loving qualities, as well as to know the key preferences and features of caring for pelargonium.

Proper care of garden pelargonium will ensure abundant flowering of ornamental culture throughout the summer.

Watering pelargonium

• Moisture-loving and, at the same time, drought-resistant pelargonium favorably “responds” to regular, moderate watering of the soil. The plant is able to tolerate a short drought without damage, but it is better not to allow the soil to dry out too much.
• The lack of regular watering affects the decorative appearance perennial - the leaves wither and thin, and the inflorescences become small or completely fall off. Excessive humidity or stagnant water is also unacceptable: pelargonium will begin to hurt and "waste".
• Watering is especially important for the plant immediately after planting, when the seedlings are still taking root in open ground.
• The best water for watering pelargonium is settled or rainwater.
• The plant does not need spraying (sprinkling) of the aerial part.
• Garden varieties of pelargonium prefer an air temperature not exceeding +20 0 C. On too hot days, the plant can be shaded.

Feeding Pelargonium

• The flower "reveals" its decorative charms as fully as possible in fertilized fertile soil, which means you should not forget about feeding the perennial.
• To provide a lush and dense bush, with lush green foliage and many inflorescences, phosphorus and potassium-containing fertilizers are ideal.
• Phosphorus top dressings are applied in the spring, before flowering, at the time of formation of the pelargonium shrub. Potash fertilizers can be applied during the laying of flower buds and during flowering. In winter, during the dormant period of the plant, top dressing is not applied.
• Balanced fertilizer complexes for flowering crops can be used as a supporting top dressing. Do not overdo it with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, leading to active growth greenery and the almost complete absence of inflorescences.
• Foliar and root dressings used for garden pelargoniums can be alternated. For abundant and long flowering, pelargonium is recommended to be fed twice a month.
• Do not fertilize within a month after transplanting pelargonium. During this period, the plant acclimatizes to new environmental conditions.

Pelargonium pruning

• In order for the flower to look attractive and beautiful throughout the growing season, it is necessary to cut off faded inflorescences and yellowed leaves. Otherwise, pelargonium will spend its energy and "strength" on the formation of seeds, which will negatively affect the formation of new buds.

• Thus, the plant is pruned in order to form denser and more compact pelargonium bushes. Then, due to the appearance of new side shoots, the culture will significantly improve its decorative appeal.

• If rainy damp weather has been standing for a long time, it is better to cut not only faded, but also unopened inflorescences from the shrub. This technique will prevent the disease with gray rot, which quickly passes from the inflorescences to the green part of the bush.
• Some flower growers in the spring prefer to pinch the tops of the shoots. Then the bush will more actively “start to grow”, and subsequently will please abundant flowering.

Diseases and pests of pelargonium

• Pelargonium is a fairly disease-resistant plant. Usually, a flower begins to hurt if the conditions for its cultivation are grossly violated. The reason may be drought or stagnant moisture, insufficient lighting or direct hot rays of the sun.

• If gray spots appear throughout the plant, and the stem begins to rot, gray rot is possible . The appearance of the fungus provokes dampness, coolness, poor ventilation (in winter) and waterlogging. To combat the disease, it is necessary to clear the area of ​​weeds, remove all affected areas from the plant, adhere correct mode watering (morning or evening), apply fungicide treatment of pelargonium.

• Brownish spots and dried edges on the leaves, as well as drying of the shoots, indicate the bacterial nature of the flower disease. In the fight against the disease, appropriate chemicals will be needed.
• Of the pests, pelargonium can be attacked by aphids, whiteflies, cabbage caterpillars or ticks. Various insecticidal preparations will help to remove pests.

How to save pelargonium in winter?

• A native of the south, pelargonium does not tolerate even short-term frosts, so in winter it needs special care.
• The ideal option is the initial planting of pelargonium in containers or pots, which can be easily brought into the room in anticipation of the winter cold. Moreover, in this case, pelargonium will continue to bloom even in autumn.
• If the perennial bushes grow in open ground, they are dug up in the fall, the roots and shoots are cut, and then planted in indoor containers. Indoors, pelargonium should be at rest. For this, it is important to comply with certain conditions: low air temperature (15-20 0 C), limited watering and lack of top dressing.
• Often, when growing pelargonium in open ground, autumn harvesting of cuttings is practiced, which are treated with Kornevin, placed in water, and then planted in small containers. In the spring, rooted cuttings are gradually hardened and planted in a flower bed. The length of the apical shoots for the preparation of full-fledged cuttings should be about 20 cm. In this way, it is possible to save a sufficient number of pelargonium specimens for planting next year.

Reproduction of pelargonium

There are several ways to propagate pelargonium: seed and vegetative (using green cuttings).

The seed method is considered a longer process than propagation by cuttings. So, in order to get flowering pelargonium from seeds, it will take at least 3-4 months, while specimens grown from cuttings bloom in 2-2.5 months.

Reproduction of pelargonium seeds

• Pelargonium grown from harvested seeds may not replicate the characteristics (eg, petal color) of the mother plant.
• Currently, in a specialized flower growing store, you can easily buy seeds of various varieties of pelargonium.
• Before sowing, pelargonium seeds must be subjected to scarification - a process that violates the integrity of the seed coat and improves its further germination. To do this, the seeds are rubbed between two sheets of sandpaper, and then soaked in warm water for 3 hours. Seeds that have not undergone scarification are characterized by reduced germination and a longer germination period. Seeds purchased in the form of dragees do not need to be scarified and are ready for sowing immediately.

• Seeds are sown in winter or early spring in a container with nutrient soil mixture (from sand and peat). Flower growers also use peat tablets for sowing. Sowing of pelargonium seeds is carried out superficially, without additional deepening. It is enough to sprinkle a little soil mixture on top of the seeds.

• Seed care comes down to periodically moistening the soil substrate (from a spray gun) and creating a microclimate acceptable for germination. To do this, the seed container is covered with a film or glass, simulating a greenhouse. It is important not to forget to regularly ventilate such a mini-greenhouse.
• Approximately two to three weeks after sowing, pelargonium shoots appear. When seedlings form 3-4 leaves, pelargonium seedlings dive and planted in open ground. Pinching (above the 6th leaf) seedlings will further ensure the formation of a lush pelargonium bush.

• As a rule, planting grown seedlings is carried out in early summer. Planting is preceded by a period of gradual hardening of young plants. To do this, boxes with seedlings (2 weeks before planting) are taken out for several hours on the street. Every day the stay of seedlings in the fresh air is increased.
• Reproduction of pelargonium from seeds allows you to grow a hardy and resistant plant variety.

Pelargonium propagation by cuttings

• Pelargonium cuttings are the most effective and common way to propagate a culture.
• With this method of reproduction, the young plant completely inherits the characteristics of the mother variety.
• Cuttings are taken from healthy and strong plants to ensure optimal shoot development.
• Pelargonium cuttings - apical shoots with 2-3 internodes can be cut at almost any time of the year. It is better to make the lower cut oblique and dry it for 1-2 hours in the air.

• Next, the cuttings are placed in moistened sand and left to root. For 100% rooting, flower growers often use drugs that stimulate the process of root formation. Preliminary disinfection of the soil substrate is also recommended.

• The temperature regime in the room should not exceed + 16-18 0 С, with a subsequent (as rooting) increase to +20 0 С. After about a month, the cuttings form a sufficient number of roots so that they can be transplanted into other containers and grown there to the state complete seedling.
• After the formation of 6-8 leaves, pinching is carried out - removal of the apical point of growth. The development of side shoots makes the pelargonium bush more fluffy and decorative.

Pelargonium, plant application

• Pelargonium has been used for quite a long time in industrial floriculture, municipal gardening and in flower arrangements private plots.
• The crop is planted in open ground in flower beds, in portable containers or in hanging containers. In addition to planting in the garden, pelargonium is often planted as a potted houseplant.

• Pelargonium looks great in the garden when making discounts, alpine slides or mixborders.
• Due to the diverse palette of colors of numerous varieties of pelargonium and the height of the bushes, from 10 cm to 1 meter, pelargonium is combined with almost all plants and is used in the most "daring" compositions. Pelargonium is planted with roses, sage, sedge, lungwort and cereals.

• Pelargonium leaves are used to obtain fragrant geranium essential oil. In addition, the flower releases beneficial phytoncides that kill pathogenic microbes.
• Squeeze from the roots of some types of pelargonium is a valuable drug in the treatment infectious diseases ENT organs. Decoctions of perennial leaves are used in traditional medicine for the treatment of diseases of the gastrointestinal tract and for nervous disorders.

Perennial garden pelargonium does not require complex care, so even a novice florist can grow a beautiful decorative flower in his flower bed.

Pelargonium in the garden, photo

Video: Growing Garden Pelargonium

Pelargonium is a plant of the geranium family, often referred to in everyday life as geranium. This one is not entirely true, but it so happened that if we are talking about indoor flower, then it is still rarely called pelargonium. Meanwhile, geranium is a plant of a different kind, which does not even intersect with pelargonium, but belongs to the same family. Real geranium is an outdoor, perennial, cold-resistant plant. In room conditions, they have long been growing different kinds and varieties of pelargoniums. It's very decorative. home plant, which has undergone significant changes, thanks to the efforts of breeders, and has become even more beautiful.

Pelargonium is an easy flower to grow. Modern hybrids have adaptation properties and rare ones have special requirements for growing conditions. These plants are often on sale, and amateur flower growers also distribute surpluses of their collections. The cost of the flower is affordable.

Landing

Optimal time

On sale, pelargoniums appear in large numbers in the spring in the form of adult plants covered with buds and flowers. It is at this time that they appear in the house.

Landing method

In this form, it is not desirable to change the soil in them; the transport soil, slightly filled with nutrients on the farm, must be left on the roots. Therefore, planting implies at this time transshipment into another pot, with the addition of soil, if necessary, along the edges of the container. And one more thing: very often Dutch pets are planted in the ground without drainage, when buying from the bottom holes, overgrown roots are already visible. This encourages new plant owners to choose a pot much bigger size. But it's not right.

The pot is selected by 1 - 3 cm larger diameter and the same depth. Drainage is added to the bottom, covered with soil, the plant is removed from the transport pot and placed in a new one. The gaps are filled with earth, the plant is watered. Everything, the planting is done. It is better to put it in a cool and not brightly lit place for some time to adapt to new conditions.

substrate

Ready-made is quite suitable for growing pelargoniums. universal primer, not particularly rich in organic matter. Otherwise, too nutritious soil will contribute to the rapid development of foliage at the expense of flowering.

Care

Place and light

Pelargoniums love fairly bright lighting, but they prefer east or west to the south window in summer. In winter, they grow well on the south side. Many respond well to light shading during flowering - in this case, the corollas of flowers turn out to be more saturated in color, and the flowering itself lasts longer.

In winter, in the absence of a dormant period, it is necessary to provide very good lighting.

Air humidity

The plant does not require high humidity and spraying. The leaves of pelargoniums are arranged in such a way that the evaporation of moisture occurs very sparingly, and they do not suffer from the dryness of the surrounding air. After hygiene water procedures the flower should not be exposed wet in the sun, it is necessary to wait for the leaves to dry completely in the shade.

Temperature

Pelargoniums are able to grow and develop well in summer at elevated temperatures, however, at moderate temperatures, the inflorescences on the plant last longer. That is why autumn flowering is usually more lush and long-lasting than summer.

A cool habitat is also beneficial in winter, but this is not an absolute requirement: most modern hybrids grow and bloom well. all year round without temperature drop.

Watering

Pelargoniums do not like excessive watering. They require abundant, but not frequent soil moisture. Between irrigations, the soil should dry out quite strongly. In winter, at low temperatures, this is especially important - excess moisture can destroy the plant.

top dressing

Fertilizers are rarely used. After spring transplant and summer flowering, top dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is possible, but in no case nitrogen. In winter, pelargoniums are not fed, no matter how they are kept at this time.

pruning

By spring, especially during a warm winter, the plant is very elongated, it becomes "ankle-legged", because. lower leaves fall, internodes increase. To increase the decorativeness of the bush, the branches are shortened.

Trimming method

No matter how the pelargonium grows during the winter, it should be cut into a stump no more than 15 cm high. This will help awaken dormant buds, which will give rise to new branches. The plant will be thick and strong.

The cut parts are divided into cuttings and used for propagation.

Transfer

In the spring, the plant is also transplanted. These procedures are convenient to combine.

Transplant method

After pruning, the stump is removed from the pot, the roots are cleaned of the old soil, straightened and cut. Having dipped the slices in charcoal, the plant is planted in a fresh earthen mixture. The pot can be used the same - the number of roots and branches has decreased, it is not required to increase the volume. The soil is well compacted, but not watered abundantly - there are still few leaves on the stump or they are absent at all, evaporation will be minimal. The first week after transplantation, pelargonium is kept in a shaded place.

reproduction

Another spring event held in the spring is breeding.

Reproduction methods

• seminal: mix seeds are often on sale. They are quite suitable for organizing a collection, because. sown in early spring or at the end of winter, young plants bloom in the same summer, and then it becomes clear what color the plants appeared in the house. Usually unpretentious plants are propagated by seeds, but they are no less beautiful. Often, as a result of partial splitting of the characteristics of hybrid varieties, plants are obtained that are peculiar, of unusual color, even unique.
• cuttings : remains after spring pruning a large number of cut branches. They are cut into cuttings of 10 cm, the lower leaves are cut off, the sections are dried a little (about 1 hour) and planted in the ground or put on rooting in water in an opaque bowl.

Important: little water is poured into the container, the lower end should be immersed in it by 1 - 2 cm, no more. And it is better if it does not touch the bottom of the container.

Bloom

Pelargonium blooms profusely and for a long time every year.

Dates and flowers

From early spring to late autumn, pelargonium is in bloom. During this time, several waves of flowering pass, between which new branches grow. For some owners, these plants bloom all year round, not focusing on the season, which means that the conditions are suitable. But it’s more correct to give pelargonium 3 months of rest so that it can gain strength.

Flowers are collected in an inflorescence umbrella. The colors are the most diverse, of all shades, up to almost black, and mixed, as well as speckled.

After flowering

With the beginning of the withering of each inflorescence, it is removed, because. very quickly unnecessary fruits are formed that deplete the plant. At the end of the flowering period, in the fall, you can once feed the pelargonium with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. To stimulate new flowering in winter, you need to prune before spring. In this case, the lighting should be very good. It should, however, be remembered that any continuously flowering plant is depleted early, becomes weak, and becomes ill at the slightest inconvenience.

There are not so many types of pelargonium grown at home. But within each species there are a sufficient number of varieties, which makes the assortment of pelargoniums truly immense.

Pelargonium zonal(garden) – the most common and most cultivar species. A characteristic feature is rounded leaves, with areas highlighted in color. This zonality is especially noticeable when growing a plant in good light.

This species gave rise to the classification of pelargoniums according to the shape of the flower:

• simple: in inflorescence simple five-petal flowers, often quite large (chandeliers), numerous, creating an umbrella of impressive size, one-two-ton color, sometimes speckled, for example, Carmel;
• semi-double : the flower is no longer flat, but also not terry, the color is varied, for example, Gerda;
• terry : double row of petals various colors e.g. miniature Brookside (Brookside), standard Lara;
• stellate: petals are not rounded, but sharp, narrow, simple and semi-double, the color is varied, for example, miniature Vectis (Vectis);
• rosebuds (rosebud, rosebud) - flowers in the form of roses, collected in a characteristic umbrella - a very popular direction in breeding. Simple rosebuds of small size, usually red and its shades. More complex hybrids - large, diverse color combinations. Apple Blossom varieties are very decorative ( Appleblossom) , Denise, April Snow (April Snow), dwarf Odencieu ( Odensjo).
• tulip-shaped : flowers in an umbrella inflorescence in the form of unopened tulips, in white-pink-red tones, for example, a series Pandora Red And Pink (Pandora Red And pink).

Pelargonium grandiflora (royal, large-flowered) - leaves are jagged, hard, flowers are not collected in an inflorescence, solitary, large, non-uniform, for example, Bravo, David. Blooms profusely, requires a dormant period in winter.

Pelargonium ivy - leaves without pubescence, similar to ivy leaves. Often ampelous or creeping. IN hybrid varieties there are terry and rosebud flowers, for example, Viva.

Pelargonium fragrant - heavily cut leaves with a pronounced aroma. Flowers inconspicuous, small, simple, white, pink or lilac, rarely yellow. The smell of vanilla, pine needles, mint, rose, lemon, for example, citrose.

Zonal and ivy pelargoniums may have an additional decorative element- variegatedness on leaves (varied coloration)

Diseases and pests

Pelargoniums, thanks to their essential oils, repel most pests. Moreover, insects in general, including mosquitoes and flies, penetrate less into the room where these plants are.

At high humidity air can be infected with a fungus. If the trunk is affected, the black leg at the base, then the specimen can no longer be saved. In this case, healthy parts are cut as early as possible for the purpose of further rooting. If the flower is affected by gray rot, then the diseased leaves are removed, the plant is treated with foundationazole.

Rarely, a viral disease of pelargonium occurs. Its symptom is the appearance of concentric spots on the leaves with a yellow center, which later necrotic. The virus infects the plant as a whole, cuttings cannot be taken for propagation, the flower must be destroyed.

Note to florist

• For abundant flowering, pelargonium should grow in a cramped pot. A small volume stimulates the development of flower buds and prevents the occurrence of rot - the soil dries out quickly.
• Pelargoniums purify indoor air not only from dust, but also from pathogenic microbes and viruses.

FAQ

Pelargonium lives for a long time, but after 5 years it significantly loses its decorative effect. You can grow it in the future as a bonsai, using the thickening of the trunk as a decorative element, this is now a very popular trend. But for typical development, a cutting is rooted and a new plant is grown.

Is pelargonium poisonous?

The plant is not poisonous. Some species of related geranium are eaten.

Why doesn't it bloom? Some species, such as royal pelargonium, do not bloom unless there was a drop in temperature during the dormant period in winter.

In winter, pelargonium often does not bloom, even in warm conditions.

Why do the leaves turn yellow, dry, curl?

Most often this happens in winter. The plant does not have enough light, it stretches and sheds some leaves, especially at the bottom. After spring pruning, the buds will begin to wake up on the trunk, and the plant will be covered with greenery.

If the leaves turn yellow in spots, and not at the edges, and curl at the same time, then a viral infection is possible. This is incurable, it is necessary to destroy the plant in order to prevent spread to other flowers.

Why does pelargonium not grow?

Perhaps the plant is in a dormant period. Or is it a dwarf or miniature variety that remains very compact at any age.

Why does pelargonium fade quickly?

Individual inflorescences do not live very long - 2 - 3 weeks. But the flowering of the bush as a whole lasts more than six months, because. new flowers appear. The increased air temperature and too bright light, which happens in summer on the southern windowsill, shortens the life of flowers.

How to save pelargonium in winter?

It is best to provide her with cool conditions with minimal watering. If this is not possible, then you need to keep as close to the window as possible, preferably with additional lighting in the darkest months. Water sparingly, do not fertilize. At the end of winter, prune and transplant.

Pelargonium is not in vain loved by many generations of flower growers. It brings comfort and tranquility to the house, protects and decorates the home.

The modern variety of varieties allows you to assemble a collection for every taste.

Geranium (pelargonium) zonal - a beautiful plant with lush greenery throughout the year and beautiful flowering from spring to late autumn. It is also familiar to our grandmothers - it is difficult to imagine a house where hats of geranium inflorescences would not flaunt on the windowsill. As early as the beginning of the 18th century, these flowers appeared - first in greenhouses, and then simply in the houses of the British. From England, zonal geranium spread throughout Europe and reached Russia at the end of the 18th century.

Travelers and colonizers brought it from southern Africa. From the Cape, a large number of species were brought and domesticated, such as amaryllis, succulents and pelargoniums, which we mistakenly call geraniums. Currently, there are about 250 species of pelargonium. Pelargoniums are so diverse that they are conditionally divided into three groups. Large-flowered, thyroid or ivy and zonal pelargoniums, which are also called garden.

These are the highest and most resistant varieties for summer planting in open ground in middle lane Russia.

In May, they can already be transplanted into flower beds, and when the temperature at night starts to drop to 10 degrees, the flower is dug up and removed into the room. Unlike royal pelargonium, zone geranium will respond perfectly to such a sharp change of "home".

All types of pelargonium, including zonal geranium, have medicinal properties They contain essential oils and release phytoncides, are able to survive in rooms where they smoke and even purify the air.

Pelargoniums are also endowed with esoteric abilities. Superstitions speak of their ability to positively influence the well-being of the owner, harmonize relations in the family and help in search of the second half. Men decorated their suits with boutonnieres of these flowers, and women took dry petals of white pelargonium on a date to fall in love with their chosen one.

Zonal Pelargonium is an upright semi-shrub. In the process of growth, its trunk at the base becomes woody and covered with a rough brown crust. In height, the plant can reach a meter, but there are also miniature varieties. The whole plant is covered with soft villi, and the edge of the leaf blade has a dark green, yellow or brown edging, it is this color that gave the name to the pelargonium group. The leaves are round, with soft, shallow dissections and smooth serrations along the edge.

The leaves are arranged alternately, attached to the trunk with a long handle. Beautiful flowers are collected in spherical inflorescences and always rise above the total mass of greenery on long peduncles. Simple or double flowers are painted in a variety of colors. There are white, pink, red petals of various shades. There are varieties with a two-tone color or with veins and strokes on the petals.

Breeders even bred a blue color that is not typical for pelargoniums in the Blue Blood variety.

Geranium variety Blue Blood

The gradual opening of buds in the umbrella and the constant formation of new inflorescences in the axil of the leaf allows you to maximize flowering from early spring to late autumn, and sometimes until mid-winter. But these flowers are grown not only because of the buds - the leaves of some varieties are very decorative and, in addition to the unusual color, also have a wavy edge.

Observing certain conditions, the flower will delight for more than one year. True, within 2 to 3 years, the plant will stretch and lose its lower leaves, exposing the trunk, but in this case, strong pruning will help rejuvenate the bush.

Varieties and varieties

This group is rich in a variety of bud colors, their shape and the number of petals. The classification of pelargoniums consists of several groups. A separate group was formed by royal pelargonium, ivy (ivy hybrid group), in a separate group is allocated fragrant geranium, ampelnaya, angel and unique. The largest group of pelargoniums is zonal, divided into terry (these include actually terry varieties), semi-double varieties, rosaceous (rosebuds) and tulip-shaped.

Non-double zonal pelargoniums include:

• miniature varieties;
• dwarf varieties;
• variegated;
• stellate;
• cactus.

stellate

It has a very unusual and unusual shape for geraniums. The leaves and petals of the buds are deeply dissected, acquiring the so-called "star" shape. The petals are thin and curved, the upper two petals are longer. The variety is not terry.

Breeders bred this variety relatively recently - in Australia in 1950.

Now popular are such varieties as:

• Peppermint Star (with pale petals closer to the center, and at the tips they are crimson);
• Star Flair (with bright crimson petals with a well-defined white spot at the base of the petal, the petals are lanceolate);
• Swiss Star (two-color petals of soft lilac with bright coral stripes).

Swiss Star

Star Flair

Peppermint Star

cactus

Such a pelargonium is almost impossible to meet on our windowsills - this is a very rare variety. The petals in the bud are twisted into tubules and intricately curved. Forms inflorescences of disheveled flowers resembling cactus dahlias. The leaves are deeply cut, green. These varieties were bred at the end of the 19th century, but, unfortunately, most of the varieties have already been lost.

Non-double or plain

The most popular and resistant varieties are not terry. They grew on almost every window sill and proved to be excellent. The color scheme is the most diverse, the petals are rounded, 5 pieces in each flower. There are varieties with simple flowers, but very decorative leaves. The veins on the leaf blades are more light color and form a mesh pattern.

Semi-double

Many and semi-double varieties. They were identified by the number of petals in a separate group. In each bud, such a flower has from 6 to 8 petals. The color of the petals is varied - from white to burgundy, and even almost black varieties.

Terry

Terry pelargoniums form lush inflorescences, opening up, form a ball. Each flower has 8 or more petals. Petals are painted in different colors, the edge of the petal is wavy or jagged. The color is uniform and with a smooth transition from light to dark.

rosacea

A very old group of pelargoniums that appeared in England in 1876. The petals in the bud, when opened, form a shape similar to a rose. The flowers are sterile, which makes it difficult to obtain new varieties. IN Lately was bred dwarf variety, with red, mother-of-pearl flowers, and beautiful netted leaves.

Carnations

This group is very similar during flowering to carnations. The edges of the petals are jagged like carnations, and the buds themselves are much larger than those of ordinary pelargoniums.

The most common varieties:

• Pat Hannam (petals are painted in pale pink and deep lilac);
• Graffiti Violet (possesses lilac-lilac flowers);
• Freshwater (petals painted in soft pink).

Freshwater

Graffiti Violet

Pat Hannam

tulip-shaped

Pelargonium got its name for the shape of the buds. They never fully open up. But the shape may differ - in some varieties it is pointed conical, while in others it is round, resembling the shape of a barrel. There are simple and terry varieties of tulip-shaped pelargonium, as well as varieties with a terry edge.

The color of the petals is varied, but the outer side is painted a little lighter. In one inflorescence from 20 to 40 buds. In height, some varieties reach 80 centimeters, but there are also dwarf ones no more than 30 centimeters. If the flower is fully opened, it should be removed immediately, if this happens again, then the whole plant is cut off at the root.

Deacon

This variety was obtained by crossing the zonal miniature pelargonium Orion and Blue Peter. The new variety was demonstrated in 1970 in Chelsea. Breeder S. Stringer received a very compact bush with abundant flowering. Varieties of orange, red and pink hues have been bred.

Raphaella

Low grade - up to 30 centimeters, with beautiful large inflorescences. The inflorescence cap, consisting of semi-double flowers, can reach 12 centimeters in diameter. This new variety with excellent characteristics. Able to tolerate heat and short-term cooling. It can be grown indoors, on the balcony in containers, or planted outdoors.

At proper care and sufficient lighting, flowering can last all year. The first shoots will appear within five days after planting, and flowering begins in early May, even in the youngest plants. The inflorescences are painted in various colors - there are white, pink, scarlet and crimson varieties.

Yitka

Pelargonium zonal Yitka is a beautiful low shrub. In height, the plant grows up to 30 centimeters, and in width up to 25. During flowering, the entire plant is covered with lush caps of salmon-colored flowers. The plant is very hardy, easily tolerates heat, but for growing at home, a western or eastern window is suitable for it. It is necessary to ensure a decrease in the temperature regime in winter to 10-12 degrees.

Plant care at home

Lighting

The birthplace of the flower is a region with a lot of sun. Pelargonium is a light-loving plant, but can also withstand partial shade. In the shade, the flower stretches, the foliage becomes pale in color, the flowering period is reduced or cannot bloom at all.

Even in winter, during the dormant period, it is necessary to provide good lighting, otherwise the plant will stretch out a lot, the leaves will turn pale, fall off in the lower part of the trunk, become rare, the stems are bare.

Temperature

Compliance with the temperature regime and providing a dormant period will help to get early and long flowering. With the onset of cold weather (zonal pelargonium can withstand up to 5-6 degrees), the flower is taken into the room. For wintering, a cool, well-lit room is suitable, where the temperature will not fall below 10-14 degrees. This will allow flower buds to form and get lush, timely flowering, as well as slow down the growth and development of the plant, preventing it from stretching out much.

Watering

Pelargoniums in the wild live in regions with an arid climate, they are able to tolerate short-term drought, accumulating moisture in fleshy leaves. But waterlogging can lead to the death of the plant. To provide optimal conditions during transplantation, a good layer of drainage must be placed on the bottom of the pot. Watering does not cost much, but regularly so that the soil has time to dry completely.

Air humidity

Since the natural habitat of the flower is a region with a dry climate, pelargonium easily adapted to indoor conditions. In winter, when the central heating is on, the air can get too dry. This will manifest itself in yellowing and drying of the tips of the leaves. Spraying in this case is undesirable, drops of water on the leaves and stem of the plant can lead to decay. It is better to put the pot on a tray with water and pebbles. You can place a container of water next to the pot.

Top dressing with fertilizers

At different times of the year, a different set of fertilizers is required. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers will help wake up after hibernation, wake up the kidneys and gain rapid and lush growth of green mass. In April, the plant must be prepared for flowering. For this, from the beginning of the month it is better to use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

pruning

Zonal pelargonium tolerates pruning perfectly - for a lush and plentiful flowering bush pruning should be done twice a year. The most important pruning is autumn, it is carried out after the active growing season in the second half of September or October.

The plant is cut to 1/3 or 2/3 of the total height.

Pruning in the spring is cosmetic, done if the plant is very stretched during the winter. It has to be done very carefully. Too strong spring pruning may deprive the plant of flowering or delay it. You can just pinch the top of the shoot. But at least three buds should remain on each stem.

Trimming is carried out with a sterile tool (blade or clerical knife) at an angle. The cut point must be treated with charcoal or cinnamon powder.

Soil: composition, characteristics

The soil for the flower should be loose and not oversaturated with nutrients. It should not contain substances that retain moisture, such as sphagnum.

Suitable composition from:

• 2 parts of sod land;
• 2 parts of humus;
• 2 pieces of leaf ground;
• one part of peat and sand.

Be sure to have a drainage of at least 2 centimeters - from expanded clay, broken bricks or fragments of clay pots.

Diseases and pests

Zonal geranium is a fairly strong plant. The cause of her illness may be excessive watering. In this case, the plant will be affected by gray mold, root rot and black leg. During cold nights, heavy watering can cause powdery mildew.

When rot appears, watering is sharply reduced, the affected area is cut off with a sterile knife and treated with charcoal. The plant must be treated with Fitosporin. Zonal geranium is best suited for planting in the garden, but there it can be attacked by aphids, whiteflies, spider mite. Insecticides will help fight them: Fitoverm, Aktara, Aktelik.

Planting and reproduction

Geranium propagation is possible in two ways:

• generative (by seeds);
• vegetatively (cuttings).

The most simple and fast way- this is propagation by cuttings (the plant will bloom in 4 - 5 months).

Propagation by cuttings (cuttings)

After pruning, cuttings remain suitable for planting. The cuttings obtained in February take root well, although it can be propagated in this way throughout the year. Each cutting should have at least 2-3 leaves. Large leaves are cut in half, the flowers are removed. This must be done so that the young plant has enough strength to form roots. They need to be dried so that the cut is weathered and dried out within a few hours.

Place in peat tablet or soil, and until the plant takes root, do not water, but only lightly spray, if the leaves begin to wither, the flower can be covered with a jar, arranging a mini-greenhouse.

The soil purchased in the store must be diluted with garden soil or humus. A high content of peat will adversely affect the development of the flower.

You can put the cuttings in a container of water and add an activated charcoal tablet there. This will help disinfect the water. It is better to wrap a glass or a jar with black paper. This contributes to the rapid formation of roots. To do this, the cutting is immersed in water by no more than 1 centimeter and the cuttings are fixed with a cardboard with a hole installed on the neck of the glass. The percentage of death of cuttings that are propagated in this way is greater.

Growing from seed

How to grow zonal geranium from seeds? For growing zonal geraniums, soil from a store is suitable or you can cook it yourself, but coarse sand must be included in its composition. The soil is disinfected and drainage is poured into the bottom of the container. The soil is moistened and the seeds are evenly placed at a distance of 5 centimeters from each other, without deepening.

The seeds have a dense shell, so before planting they are recommended to rub on sandpaper, not much, slightly scratching preferably in a spiral.

Growth stimulator will help to get shoots quickly. To do this, the seeds are soaked for 3 hours in the Epin solution, and then for another 3 hours in clean water. The container is covered with a film and placed on a well-lit window sill, covering from direct sunlight.

picking

After the appearance of the fourth leaflet, the seedlings can dive into separate pots. Pots should not be very large - no more than 7-10 centimeters in diameter and 14 in height. Drainage is placed at the bottom of each pot, and a large amount of sand should be included in the composition so that the soil is sufficiently loose.

hardening

After the appearance of real leaves, the container with seedlings begins to be slightly opened first for several hours, and then the film is removed and the flowers begin to be taken out for several hours outside. After a month of hardening, the container can be left for the whole day.

When to pinch seedlings?

When the fifth leaf appears, pinch the plant, this will form a dense bush, make the crown more branched, and the trunk is strong.

The necessary conditions:

• good lighting;
• regular moderate watering;
• the presence of a drainage system;
• temperature regime in winter and summer.

Sowing dates

Pelargonium can be planted throughout the year, but the optimal time for planting is spring (April). At this time, it is easiest to maintain the temperature from 18 to 22. After 15-20 days, shoots will appear.

Preparing seeds for sowing

seeds zonal pelargonium have a dense shell for fast germination, each seed must be scratched on fine sandpaper, in a spiral. Treat with a growth stimulator.

Seeding tanks

As a container for sowing seeds, any container no higher than 10 centimeters with holes for draining water, which can be covered with glass or film, is suitable.

Medicinal properties

Like all geraniums, zonal geranium contains a large amount of essential oils and has medicinal properties. This plant contains more than 500 useful organic substances. It saves with bleeding, nervous disorders and diarrhea. Promotes the removal of excess fluid from the body, effective in the treatment of pharyngitis and insomnia. It will help in the prevention of colds, migraines and headaches.

Decoction compresses and gruel help with:

• skin diseases;
• radiculitis;
• osteochondrosis.

Fresh leaves help with the common cold, tonsillitis, otitis media, tonsillitis and rhinitis.

Preparations, which include geranium, are used in the treatment of the stomach, intestines, ulcers duodenum and stomach ulcers. The substances included in its composition are able to cleanse the body and remove toxins.

Pelargonium essential oil is used to treat:

• sinusitis;
• sinusitis;
• pharyngitis;
• tonsillitis;
• otitis;
• laryngitis;
• bronchitis;
• flu;
• tracheitis;
• runny nose;
• stomatitis.

The oil is part of the mixture for the treatment of varicose veins, cosmetic procedures with the skin. Improves hair condition - can be simply added to shampoo or balm.

When applying any medicine before using drugs, infusions and decoctions of geraniums, you should consult your doctor.

General contraindications are:

• pregnancy;
• lactation period;
• young children;
• individual intolerance.