If you think that nothing but your headache will come from a children's drum, you are mistaken. You can get a lot of benefits from this craft. Even if you decided on it on the instructions of a teacher from kindergarten.
A do-it-yourself drum for a kindergarten is often offered to be done not in order to add worries to parents. Most likely, this is done for some kind of developmental activities or matinees, which in itself is a sacred thing.
Among other usefulness, there is one, not entirely serious advice, rather a joke. But as you know, in every joke there is some truth. See how else you can apply children's homemade drum if you decide to do it yourself.
Look around and you'll find all sorts of used packages, tins and other things that can be turned into a beautifully beating drum. Even if you haven't stocked anything for crafts, everything can be found in the house.
Yes, and there are benefits for your family and at home in this activity (or you can find it, if you wish). There would be a desire, but there is always a reason ...
Why make a drum
For example:
- Joint creativity, as you know, brings together.
- This an exciting activity- make such a cool toy yourself.
- An excellent opportunity to develop a sense of rhythm and train coordination of movements. Try to march yourself, and beat the drum, maintaining the rhythm.
- An occasion to offer the child not just to beat with drumsticks, but to try to play a familiar song in rhythm.
- You can keep a child busy in the country with a homemade drum for a long time, which is also a plus.
- If you want revenge noisy neighbors in a city apartment, a drum and a child - just what you need (just kidding, but ...).
Do not forget to buy earplugs or a pair of headphones for each family member who is not participating in the action of retribution.
The simplest do-it-yourself drums
Coffee tin
This do-it-yourself drum is the most simple craft of all that we now offer you. Can from under the coffee plastic lid that's all he needs. So that the lid does not come off every now and then, fix it on a film and, for fidelity, put it on glue.
Holes in the cover, which will be the impact surface, can not be perforated, that is, do not make holes in it. The sound will be muffled, but it will be. And our drum will not break through.
Do an experiment and see what kind of sound the sticks make. You can use Chinese chopsticks for sushi by wrapping (tightly) cotton balls around them. Well, you also have to take care of the rope with which your proud drummer will hang a new toy around his neck.
Although for the delicate neck of the child it is better to take a wide ribbon or a mother's gas scarf. Here you will have to show ingenuity: involve dad and tools or tie a cunning knot around the can.
But this must be done in such a way that the tape does not tear off the already not very firmly seated cover. Otherwise, you will not end up with tears.
Cool drum from a plastic bucket with a lid
A very simple and most successful drum made of a plastic bucket with a lid. (For revenge on the neighbors, it’s better not to come up with (again, a joke ...). You can decorate or decorate it as your fantasy tells. You need to take a bucket of the size or make several drums of different sizes to get a whole drum kit. Their covers hold firmly and take care of that she won't have to fly.
We make sticks from improvised materials, pencils, felt-tip pens, and a design like the one in the photo are suitable. Even mom's silicone brushes for greasing the pan will give an interesting sound. Let the child try the sound of whatever he wants. Don't nip the fantasies of a future celebrity in the bud.
Hanging such a drum-bucket around your neck is not just easy, but very simple. Therefore, this homemade drum is number one in a series of do-it-yourself drums in terms of ease of execution, sound volume and time costs.
Corrugated cardboard drum
You will have to sit over this drum and it is hardly suitable for an enthusiastic drummer. Something tells me it won't last long. Quicker decorative option(for show, so to speak), but has the right to life. The main thing is that it looks good and a do-it-yourself drum for kindergarten will be made. For check.
Do-it-yourself step-by-step photos of a drum from a can
Not the easiest way to make a drum with your own hands for kindergarten. But if you can find a tape that is thick enough for the hitting surface, or a tape that can withstand the tightest tension possible, your drum will be a drumming winner.
DIY souvenir drum
To decorate the premises of kindergarten groups to New Year's parties a paper drum fits perfectly. Often they are asked to do something New Year's with their own hands for New Year's decoration.
What do parents do the most? That's right, Christmas compositions with cones. Your decorative drum will stand out from the crowd New Year's crafts and the teachers will be sincerely grateful to you. original jewelry always in short supply.
Drum made of paper, cotton buds and gift paper with a printed or musical print
Such a paper drum will require rolls of tape, or cardboard cartridges from paper towels. The size of the drum also depends on the size of the cardboard cartridge. Twine, and wire, and beads, and even the remnants of thread from knitting will come in handy.
You can make a very small paper drum and hand it to the paws of a teddy bear or doll. Put under the Christmas tree or hang on branches as Christmas decorations. It can be used in garlands or as an element of a winter composition to decorate a room.
A do-it-yourself drum for a kindergarten can be both real, performing its musical functions, and symbolic. Listen to the request of the educators and specify for what purpose they are asked to make a drum with their own hands.
Where will it be used and what quality should it be. We have provided you with options. Go ahead and be sure to involve children in the creativity. They remember such moments for the rest of their lives, in contrast to the joint viewing of regular cartoons.
Exclusive items always arouse the admiration of others and the pride of the owner. If you play a drum kit, custom-made drum kits sticks become your unique highlight.
Instruction
- Go to any music store and look at the models of drumsticks they sell. Pay attention to the labeling. The numerical designation indicates the thickness sticks, and the letter - about its purpose. If you are a beginner drummer, ask the seller for a stick marked 2B and remember its diameter and weight. Models with this marking are intended for playing in brass and symphony orchestras. They are very comfortable and popular with beginner drummers who are developing their technique and staging.
- Buy on the construction market wooden block. In principle, American walnut, maple or oak will do, but it’s better to buy a maple bar anyway. This wood is light and sticks from it are ideal for fast and quiet playing. When you become a superstar or a professional drumstick maker, make sticks from exotic woods such as bubinga or rosewood.
- Remember the 2B model you were looking at in the music store and cut out sticks about the same length and thickness. To do this, make the bottom sticks thickened - it will be a counterweight with an end sticks with head. Opposite thin end sticks, which is struck on the drum, is called "shoulder". The length and shape of this section affects the sound. Cut the stick so that it smoothly thins towards the head. Then her sound will be more refined.
- head sticks make pointed (Pointed or triangle-tipped). This is the most popular option and guarantees a mid-focus sound.
- Process the cut sticks sandpaper to remove roughness and protect hands from possible splinters.
- If you want to hold on tighter and tighter sticks, buy special anti-slip tapes and wrap them around the base of the sticks.
The question is relevant and will remain relevant. wishing to engage percussion instruments will always be found. In this article, we have collected useful information. Let's get started.
Among a large number brands of drum sticks on the market, you just need to understand how to choose the most suitable sticks for your playing style. Will a metal drummer use jazz sticks? Your sticks can break very quickly or not produce the desired sound. Therefore, you need to understand what kind of sticks you play with and whether they are suitable for you.
Let's start with a tree
In order to choose suitable Drumsticks, you need to start with the base - the tree. There are 3 main types of wood used to make drumsticks. The first option is maple, which is the lightest and has great flexibility. Maple is good for energetic play as well absorbs impact energy. With it, you will feel less punches with your hands. The next type of wood is walnut, which is the most commonly used material for making sticks and gives a decent level of energy absorption and flexibility. And finally, oak. Oak drumsticks rarely break, but you will feel the vibration a lot more due to the poor ability of oak to absorb energy. If the stick does not indicate what wood it is made of, then leave this stick. Usually this means that it is made of an incomprehensible tree without standards.
Tip selection
Now that you've chosen a tree, it's time to choose the right tip. There are two main types of tip: nylon and wood. The tree is more common. The tree is a good choice for many types of games. The only disadvantage of the wooden tip is their rapid wear with frequent use. Nylon tips last longer and are useful when playing cymbals for bright cymbal sound and good bounce. The problem with nylon tips can be if they fly off the stick during the performance. If you play electronic drums, it is recommended to use drumsticks with nylon tips. Wooden sticks can break and with a broken stick you can seriously damage the grid on the pede.
Size selection
When you have already decided on the tree and the tip, you need to choose right size drum stick. Different manufacturers code their sticks a little differently, so you'll notice a difference between Vic Firth 5a and Zildjian 5a. However, they are quite similar nonetheless. There are 3 main categories of drumsticks.
7a. These are the thinnest and lightest drumsticks for the soft sound of your drums. They are great for jazz music and young drummers.
5a. These are the most common sticks. Medium in thickness and allow you to play both loud and quiet. Great for rock music.
2b/5b. They are thicker than the previous ones and allow you to get a loud sound from the drums and are ideal for metal and hard rock.
original drumsticks
On the store shelves, most likely you have seen unusual drumsticks of different colors and shapes. They are designed to make it easier for you to hold them or to increase the duration of the game. Rubber drumsticks are becoming more and more popular and promise to be "never broken". the problem is that these drumsticks are quite expensive, costing around $50 a pair. Moreover, you will see that they will quickly cut on the cymbals and are inconvenient to play rim shots on the snare drum. Colored sticks leave marks on plates over time and are not very practical for this reason.
Remember, if you constantly break your drumsticks, check your technique before changing to heavier sticks. At correct technique drumsticks should break very rarely.
Knowing all of the above information, you should have no problem choosing the right drumsticks for you. Remember that the choice of sticks is always a personal matter, so try and experiment with different sizes and styles.
The video shows different drumsticks.
- Always carry several pairs of drumsticks with you. Companies that make drumsticks also make handy storage containers. Put a few of these in your bag so your chopsticks are always within arm's reach of you.
- If you're wondering how jazz drummers get that sizzling sound on the snare, you might want to buy a pair of brushes. The brushes have retractable thin metal rods, which are mainly used to provide a quiet background beat, so the sound is completely different from hitting with sticks.
- When playing an acoustic concert, you can use rue, which is made from hewn birch or bamboo chips. Compared to brushes, they sound more muffled. Although rues come in different thicknesses, don't hit them too hard or they may break off pieces and become unplayable.
- Try different innovations from time to time. For example, manufacturer Zildjian produces rubber practice pads.
- Wear earplugs while playing drums. The source of the loud sound (i.e. the drums) is fairly close to your ears. Do you want to listen to music and have conversations when you are 80? Many drummers report hearing loss by the age of 50, and only then do they start using earplugs. Don't let this happen to you.
- There is a chance that you will have to try many sticks. If you don't know which ones you want, try a few options. Ultimately, you will settle on what is right for you.
- If you play metal, 5V sticks will work for you.
- You can also start with fairly thick sticks of 2A or larger format to train your wrist, and then move on to sticks easier. And eventually stop playing with heavy sticks altogether.
- If you want to achieve an epic, orchestral sound, wrap the ends of your sticks with duct tape. This will give the cymbals a less harsh sound and also help to achieve a crescendo effect. The more tape you wrap around the sticks, the stronger the effect.
- you can use different kinds sticks for different styles games.
- Be careful, while playing heavy music, you can rub blisters and calluses. Buy from your chosen manufacturer special tapes which will reduce vibration - this will reduce the number of possible injuries.
- If you are going to play in a band or are already playing, ask your band leader for advice on which sticks you should choose.
- If you know exactly what kind of sticks you want, buy a large package right away, they will really pay for themselves.
- Don't just play wooden sticks. If your sticks break often, try graphite sticks, but they will sound different.
"If a person has "golden" hands, it doesn't matter where they grow from!" (With) Russian radio
It all started with a strong desire to play drums and practice at home, and not just at a rehearsal base. For training at home, I already had a homemade simulator. But knocking on rubber bands and felt, not hearing "normal" sounds, eventually got bored. Creative itching and engineering education pushed me to look for something else. Installing an acoustic drum kit at home would be an inadequate solution. An apartment in a panel high-rise building with all the consequences, as they say ... Therefore, I settled on the version with an electronic drum kit. And I really wanted to electronic drum set Feels like it would be as similar as possible to the acoustic. Option with hard drum pads was dropped immediately. But the reels with nets - it seemed very interesting!
The issue of price was also not the last. Having studied the materials of various forums for drummers, I realized that it is quite possible to make the drum set that you want by yourself.
Further - drum module. Which? Conditions: home use, flexibility of settings, connection to a computer and the price, of course. In the end, the choice came down to the purchased Alesis Trigger IO module and requiring self assembly the MegaDrum module. MegaDrum won.
When I first learned about MegaDrum and got acquainted with this project in detail, then, to be honest, I really liked it and aroused sincere admiration! Particularly captivating (in a good way) is Dmitry Skachkov's reverent attitude and attention to his offspring and a very informative forum where you can get answers to almost any questions regarding the module. Taking off my hat!
Below I will try to tell in detail and in an accessible way about how I made my electronic drum set and what nuances and difficulties arose in the process. Some things and solutions are not invented by me and are described in various forums. So this article (among other things) is an attempt to combine my own and someone else's practical experience.
DRUM MODULE
As I indicated above, the MegaDrum module is used as a midi converter. At first I wanted to build it from scratch, but after that I leaned towards the purchase of the All In One v3.2 PCB 56i Kit. The kit allows you to assemble a module for electronic drum set for 56 inputs based on Atmega644. Yes, it came out more expensive, but the pros outweighed:
- All items are in one package. This is important, because it is not always possible to purchase everything you need at once and in one place;
- prefabricated double layer printed circuit board with applied markings to facilitate the installation of elements;
- already "flashed" PIC and Atmega with a protected bootloader.
All this contributed to the speedy assembly module for electronic drums and reduced the likelihood of "jambs".
Made payment by credit card via PayPal. After 2 weeks I received a parcel from France. The package and quality corresponded to the declared (and expected too).
There were no problems during assembly. I soldered with a low-power soldering iron (25 W) with a thin tip. Solder in the form of a wire with a diameter of 1 mm with a flux inside. At the end of the soldering, the flux splashes were washed off with a brush and a PCB cleaner.
It took about a week to solder, because. soldered after work in the evenings, when the household emptied the kitchen. A kitchen with a range hood definitely rocks!
As soon as the installation was completed, there was immediately a desire to check whether "the little animal is alive." I plugged it into USB and ... It works !!! At least the system (I have WinXP SP3) recognized the device and the display showed information that it was MegaDrum and D. Skachkov's copyright. Next, it was necessary to check the inputs and buttons.
At the weekend I went to the radio market, which is on Kardachi. They bought a plastic case of a suitable size, jacks, buttons (I decided not to use those in the kit), additional connectors (for connecting drums and cymbals for drums) and ten pieces of 35, 27 and 20 mm diameter piezos. Just in case, I took it with a margin (and, as it turned out, not in vain).
Returning home, I quickly soldered the cable with a piezo and a connector. I connected the MegaDrum, loaded the EZDrummer program and started plugging the piezo jack into the module connectors one by one. I couldn't believe it myself, but EVERYTHING worked! It seems that it should have been so, but in the depths of my soul I was expecting some joint. And then - collected, connected and here's your happiness!
I didn't need 56 inputs. 32 was quite enough even with plans for the future. Therefore, I postponed the board with 24 inputs. I made markings on the case and drilled holes for the connectors. For the USB connector, I had to work with a jigsaw for sawing. Decided not to use midi connectors.
For drilling holes in plastic large diameter(greater than 5 mm) you should use a drill bit for wood. This will result in even and neat holes, not torn holes.
I managed to spoil the "native" front panel of the case by mistakenly drilling holes for buttons of a larger diameter than necessary. Cursing, I thought about how to make a new one. Rescued office, which is engaged in outdoor advertising. I drew a drawing of the panel in Adobe Illustrator and emailed them. For 20 UAH ($2.5) I had a new panel made of 2 mm acrylic with all the cutouts for screws, buttons and LCD cut out by laser. Looking ahead, I’ll say what they did to me there round blanks for drum cymbals made of 5 mm thick acrylic.
In the same Adobe Illustrator, I made a drawing of the front panel. Printed on photo paper and laminated. Then I cut holes and pasted it with double-sided tape on an acrylic panel. Here's what happened in the end.
At final assembly module, I still became a victim of my inattention. By mistake, I plugged the keyboard connector into the encoder connector. After starting, I tried unsuccessfully to get to the settings using the buttons. And it doesn't work! As a result of my chaotic button presses, I turned off the display contrast to zero and stopped seeing anything at all. Useful to the forum to ask the age-old question "What to do?!". The next day, the joint was discovered. The connector was connected where it should, after which everything worked out. Contrast and settings have been restored. Hooray!
DRUMS
- tubs
After assembling the module, it was the turn of the drums. It was decided to make drums standard sizes, namely: bass drum and snare - 12 inches, toms - 10 inches. Such dimensions were chosen in order to obtain the optimal ratio of such parameters: the quality of removal, the possibility of installing branded nets, dimensions and convenience when playing.
Initially, I wanted to cut tubing from PVC pipes of the appropriate diameters. And very soon I realized that everything is not so simple! It was very expensive to buy pipes of such diameters and 2-2.5 m long, and pipes 1 m long exist only in price lists. None of the suppliers have seen them live. Those. the situation is like in the Soviet joke about toilet paper. It seems to exist, but it is impossible to buy.
Again the same question: what to do? In bourgeois forums, people solve the problem using "flexible wood" (flexible wood). The thing, of course, is useful, but for our regions it is still exotic. It seems that a couple of firms in Kyiv began to supply this so-called. " flexible plywood", but the price ... And bending shells from ordinary plywood at home is another hemorrhoid. In the end, I decided to try to make shells from fiberboard. After all, I don’t acoustic drums was going to do.
cut straight fiberboard sheet at home was not possible. Therefore, I went to the nearest "Epicenter" and bought a sheet of fiberboard 2440x1220 mm 3.2 mm thick. In the same place, I ordered the cutting of the sheet into strips of 1220x110 mm.
Because the thickness of the material was 3.2 mm, then when using 3 layers, the shell wall turned out to be about 10 mm, which seemed to me quite sufficient.
3 strips of fiberboard I put in the bath with a little warm water. After about 15 minutes, the strips began to sink. This was a signal that the fiberboard had absorbed enough water and was ready to bend.
It must be borne in mind that fiberboard strips in the process of drying receive various internal stresses and are deformed. If you simply twist the strip into a roll, securing it around the edges, the result will be an egg-shaped spiral. And it will not work out of it to glue a perfectly round shell. The strips should be dried by winding something around it and fixing it tightly. I used 2 pans of suitable sizes. More for snare and bass drum, less for toms.
In turn, I rolled the strips into rolls and put them inside the pan for a minute (so that they remember the shape a little). Then, one after the other, he tightly wound the joint into the joint on the pan. I also wrapped it tightly with nylon twine on top and left it to dry for 4 days.
After 4 days, I removed the "donut" from the pan and wrapped it around the ring with twine, leaving it to dry for another 3 days.
So, the blanks for the tub are ready. Can be cut and glued. Next, I will describe the process of making a tom shell.
The first layer is the outer one. If the shell has an outer diameter of 10 inches (254 mm), then the length of the first strip should be 798 mm (L=2*Pi*R). In order to accurately measure the given length, I took a flexible sewing meter and, using an accurate tape measure, put a mark on it (you cannot trust the divisions on the sewing meter). Having fixed one end of the meter on the strip and tightly wrapping it around the workpiece, he noted desired length. I cut off the excess with a hacksaw for metal.
It is not necessary to calculate the exact length of the second (third) layer using a formula adjusted for material thickness. It is enough to estimate the length with a small margin, and cut off the excess during the gluing process, when the actual length is clear. The "seams" of the layers should be opposite each other.
For gluing fiberboard, I used B3 moisture resistant glue. It is similar to PVA, but becomes more rigid as it dries.
First, I glued a small area with glue at the junction of the outer layer, overlaid it with pieces of the previously cut strip from the outside and from the inside and clamped it with clothespins on both sides. After 30 min. removed the clothespins and glued the right half of the ring, holding it with clothespins. Left to dry for 40 minutes.
During gluing, it is very important to check that the edges of the strips do not climb out of each other!
Then he removed the clothespins and cut off the excess glue from the edges with a knife. I firmly pressed the left half of the inner strip and determined how much to cut off so that in the future it would stick to the joint with the right. Cut off. Then glued in the manner described above. I did the same with the third strip and left it to dry overnight.
The next day, I sanded the sides and edges, rounding the top (under the grid). Next, I made markings for the holes for the screws (fastening the lags and the bottom) and the connector (jack-mother).
I decided to decorate the shells from the outside with the help of a self-adhesive film "under the tree". In order for the film to stick well, I varnished the barrel on water based in 3 coats with intermediate sanding, leaving intact the upper part with a width of about 7 mm. Accordingly, the film was cut with a width of 7 mm less than the height of the tub. The indent is needed so that the mesh does not tear off the film when pulled. This indentation I impregnated with wood varnish and sanded. In general, I would like to note that after impregnation of fiberboard with glue and varnish, its properties began to resemble a piece of wood.
The rest of the shells were made in exactly the same way.
- Drum hoops, bottoms and lugs
Instruction
Go to any music store and look at the models of drumsticks they sell. Pay attention to the labeling. The numerical designation indicates the thickness sticks, and the letter - about its purpose. If you are a beginner, ask the seller for a stick marked 2B and remember its diameter and weight. Models with this marking are intended for playing in brass and symphony orchestras. They are very convenient and popular among those developing technique and staging.
Purchase a wooden block from the construction market. In principle, walnut, maple or oak will do, but it is still better to buy a maple block. This wood is light and sticks from it are ideal for fast and quiet playing. When you become a superstar or a professional drumstick maker, make sticks from exotic woods such as bubinga or rosewood.
Remember the 2B model you were looking at in the music store and cut out sticks about the same length and thickness. To do this, make the bottom sticks thickened - it will be a counterweight with an end sticks with head. Opposite thin end sticks, which are struck on the drum, "shoulder". The length and shape of this section affects the sound. Cut the stick so that it smoothly thins towards the head. Then her sound will be more refined.
head sticks make pointed (Pointed or triangle-tipped). This is the most popular option and guarantees a mid-focus sound.
Process the cut sticks sandpaper to remove roughness and protect hands from possible splinters.
If you want to hold on tighter and tighter sticks, buy special anti-slip tapes and wrap them around the base of the sticks.
note
Do not wrap tape and band-aids around the sticks, trying to make it less slippery. Use only special tapes for this purpose.
Remember that sticks are consumable for the drummer. They do not need to be protected and try to protect from faults. Play for fun!
Not every professional drummer will be able to tell you right off the bat why he chose certain drumsticks. Most likely, the choice is made automatically. They already know what they need. And you need to know it too in order to do it. the right purchase.
Instruction
Pay attention to the surface of the sticks - they should be smooth, even, made of fairly dense wood. In addition to the type of wood, the weight, diameter, length and material of the tips of the drumsticks are of great importance. In addition, professionals also talk about balance, as well as ease of grip.
Give preference to sticks made of wood that does not have a contrasting structure, otherwise such sticks can break literally at any time during the game. In addition, the sound emitted by the drums also depends on the material of the sticks, or rather the tips. So wooden tips allow you to extract a natural sound, but synthetic ones - nylon, extract a booming and richer sound and last an order of magnitude longer.
Choose sticks not only based on the material, but also so that they fit perfectly in your hands. If you hold them comfortably, then the quality of the sound extracted from the drums will increase. Don't be afraid to compare multiple sets of drumsticks.
Also one of important factors in choosing drumsticks is your playing style, repertoire. You should be especially careful when choosing sticks for rock, jazz and classical.
Evaluating the selected sticks, tap them one against the other and listen. If you suspect that the sticks are far from being as dense as you would like, or even have a cavity inside, do not try to buy them.
Once again, it is worth repeating that the sticks must be perfectly straight and even, because the slightest distortion in the shape of the sticks will not have the best effect on your game. Ride each of them flat surface and you will immediately see how straight they are.
Having gained experience, having understood the intricacies of choosing high-quality drumsticks, you will do this automatically. Perhaps you decide to pick up several sets at once for different playing styles. After all, you should not focus on one thing.
Rolling drumsticks is a very effective technique that many famous drummers use while playing music, such as Gerry Brown. To learn how to twist drums, you need to train for a long time.
Instruction
Be aware that spinning the drum sticks akin to twisting a stick in karate. Drum stick feints can be done with both two fingers and four. Rotation clockwise and in the opposite direction looks equally spectacular. After 2-3 years of regular play, this skill appears on its own. Sometimes it can be worked out by specifically devoting time to it.
Place the stick between your index and middle fingers, perpendicular to your palm, and try to rotate it. Imagine that you are holding a propeller in your hands. During unwinding, the stick should always be located only between the index and middle fingers. At the beginning of training, you can help with other fingers, but over time, the wand will begin to spin in your hand easily and naturally, as if without your help.
Please note that you do not need to rotate the stick like an oar - first with one end, then with the other. Try to keep your hand still, moving only two working fingers.
Note that the fingers should be kept straight, only a slight bend in the phalanges is allowed.
Try some hand and finger exercises. This will help you master the twisting with drumsticks faster. First, rotate the sticks with single strokes according to the scheme: R-L-R-L-R-L, where R is the rotation to the right, L is the left.
When you can do this exercise at a fast pace, move on to practicing double strikes: R-R-L-L-R-R-L-L-R-R-L-L.
Having mastered this technique, try to perform paradidles: R-L-R-R-L-R-L-L-R-L-R-R-L-R-L-L.
Visual information on how to spin the drum sticks? look at the schools of Mark Mineman, Bobby Jazombek, and also Thomas Leng. The Changes album by Godsmack might also be of use to you. In it, Shanon Larkin performs various feints with drumsticks.
Stick grip is the basis of good instrument playing, so it is important to learn it from the first lessons. Otherwise, your hands will get tired when playing the drums.
