A hand-held earth drill is often required when arranging a site or building a summer house. The tool is simply irreplaceable if you need to drill holes for fence posts, for a gazebo, installing arches or other agricultural work. The drill can be manual or automatic.
Create your own hand drill
Types of drills
For different construction work are used different kinds Boers . Each of them has a special design:
- Auger drill. Its peculiarity lies in the elongated cutting part. Used for making holes for posts. Since the structure is longer, it can be removed much less often, so the work is done faster when compared with a garden auger.
- Garden. As a rule, these are 2 blades welded to opposite sides of the pipe. They are placed at different angles. The drill is mainly used to make holes for planting plants. Hence the specific name “garden”. But it can also be used when building gazebos, installing fence posts, etc.
- For TISE piles. It is somewhat reminiscent of a garden one, but additionally has a blade that folds down at the bottom of the hole for expansion.
The easiest to make are garden spindles. The design may have variations, depending on the soil with which this tool will be used. This is the advantage of self-made tools. It can be made for specific needs. The point is not even the diameter of the blades themselves, but the fact that they can be made removable, bolted, etc.
In this video we will look at a homemade earth drill:
Although the price of the simplest drills in stores is low, such tools position themselves as “universal.” For light soil they will be useful, but on harder soil they are ineffective.
Independent production
Even without the practice of making such structures, making a garden and hand drill for the earth with your own hands will not be difficult. This is the simplest, but at the same time effective model.
Garden auger elements:
- Cutting part. As a rule, these are two blades in the shape of a semicircle, which are sharpened along the edges. One blade is fixed at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The second, on the opposite side, also has an inclination angle of 20-30 degrees, but in the other direction. For ease of use, the cutting parts can be bolted rather than welded to the pipe. The structure will also be disassembled. If desired, you can make several pairs of blades with different diameters.
- Rod (pipe). It can be either round or profiled. As an alternative, you can use a crowbar, but it is heavy and difficult to work with. The length of the rod must be 40-50 cm longer than the required depth of the hole. If the length of the pipe is more than one and a half meters, then it will be more convenient to make a collapsible structure. This can be done from two parts of pipe. One part should be slightly smaller in diameter than the second. The design will resemble a fishing spinning rod (telescopic connection).
- Pen. For this element, a transverse pipe is often welded on top of the structure. The length of such a handle is from 40 to 60 cm.
- The tip is a drill. It is located on the pipe and is a continuation of the structure under the blades. Responsible for centering the drill on initial stages- the first one loosens the soil, which makes the work process easier.
This is the basic configuration of the manual earth drill. You can attach various gadgets to it.
Necessary materials
The base of the structure is a pipe. The diameter should not exceed 5 cm. If you use a profiled pipe, then its cross-section should be 20x20 or 30x30 cm.
Blade knives can be made from various materials using:
- steel sheets 4 mm;
- cutting disc from a saw of the required diameter.
The last option is more convenient and practical for production, since the cutting part is already ready. The disk must be cut in the middle and attached to the pipe. It is also better to sharpen the side parts. So, the disk will cut the ground better when drilling.
The tip can be made in different shapes. You can simply sharpen a metal rod and attach it to a pipe, or make a spear-shaped tip from a strip of steel. Or you can combine both options.
Blade attachment
First you need to decide on the type of fastening of the blades - removable or welded “tightly”. If the drill is dismountable, then small metal shelves are welded on both sides of the pipe from below. They need to drill 2-3 holes for bolts. They should be welded to the pipe at an angle of 20-30 degrees, each in its own direction, just like the cutting blades.
In addition, the holes made in the shelves need to be duplicated in the blades. Their diameter must be at least 10 mm. You will have to cut holes in the center of the blades for the pipe. This must be done both when fastening with bolts and in the monolithic version. If you use a saw blade, then there is already such a hole there. It only needs to be adjusted to the diameter of the rod.
Use of sheet steel
To make a drill with your own hands using sheet steel, just cut out a template from paper for the blades, and a metal circle along it. A hole is drilled in the center into which the rod is inserted. The two parts are fastened together by welding or bolts, depending on the chosen design.
The diameter of the hole should be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe. It can be either round or square, if profiled is used. A spiral can be made in two ways - cut a circle from the edge to the center and bend it in different directions (one up and the other down) or make a drill from two halves.
In the latter case, the metal circle is cut in half after making a hole and then fastened to the rod according to the selected design model. In both the first and second options, it is necessary to bend the edges at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The smaller the angle, the easier the work process will be. But with a large inclination angle, the drilling process is much faster.
On hard soils, the blades can become deformed under heavy load. Therefore, to strengthen the tool, supports made of thick steel are welded. The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is not hardened. Finding a sheet of hardened steel is difficult, but even if such material is available, bend it under the right angle Not sure it's going to happen.
Use an old saw blade to create a drill
Saw blade construction
Using an old saw blade to make a simple hand auger for earthworks– practically perfect option. It is made of hardened steel, and it is strong, sharp and resilient. But it is impossible to bend hardened steel, since it can crack at the slightest deformation. In this case, the disk is cut in half and attached to the rod at the desired angle using welding or bolts. If you use bolts for fastening, you must first weld the shelves for fastening the parts of the saw blade.
Such designs are characterized by high performance and durability. To make the drill even sharper, the edges (cut side) are also sharpened. The semicircular sides already have good sharpening, which over time becomes sharper and more effective when working.
Modifications of garden augers
For harder soils garden auger useless. Therefore, the design can be modified. To do this, it is necessary to install several rows of cutting parts on the rod. Immediately after the tip, a blade of the smallest diameter is installed. Stepping a few centimeters to the side, the blades are mounted bigger size. There can be no more than 4 such rows. The diameter of the largest blade should not exceed 50 cm, otherwise it will be very difficult to work.
If you need to make a drill for poles with your own hands, then this is an ideal option. The design is very light and easy to work with.
If you need to make a hole for poles of small diameter, then the work looks something like this: make a few turns with a drill, pull it out and throw away the earth stuck between the blades. But if you need to make deep holes, then the work will be long and hard. Therefore, a container for collecting soil is welded on top of the structure. If you can’t come up with modifications yourself, you can use drawings.
Screw designs
Working with an auger is much more difficult than working with a garden auger. This is due to the large number of turns that provide serious resistance . But, as a rule, screws are used together with electric drives, and there is no need to drill by hand. They often make deep wells, etc.
In order to make an auger drill, you need to prepare several disks of the same diameter. The number of disks corresponds to the number of screw turns. You also need to make holes in the disks for the rod.
The disks are cut from the center to the edge, a spiral is made from each part, pulling one end up and the other down. Each part is welded to the pipe one by one. It is also necessary to weld the round parts together.
Drill for making piles
The classic version of a drill for TISE is blades with a container for collecting soil. There is also a wider knife, which is necessary to create an expansion at the bottom of the pile. Using such a homemade drill for personal purposes is not very convenient, since the additional folding knife gets in the way.
In this regard, such structures are often made collapsible, where the folding knife can be dismantled. In general, it is recommended to use a regular garden drill to make a pile for personal purposes, and for expansion, make a separate knife with a container for collecting earth. The work is much easier in this case.
For this design, a scrap from a shovel is used as a knife., and a container for collecting soil can be made from a herring can. The knife is fixed on levers, and when lowered along the pile, it is in the uppermost position, as it is tensioned with a cable. When it reaches the bottom, the cable relaxes and the knife falls onto the walls of the pile, beginning to remove the soil and form an expansion of the desired size.
Alternatively, a dredger can also be made from an old propane tank. To reduce friction, the well is constantly doused with water. This tool can also be used on hard soils.
Alternative brace options
For the purpose of planting vegetation, make complex design, even the simplest garden auger makes no sense. To do this, you can use a modernized shovel. It is necessary to prepare a high quality steel shovel and mark it for further modification.
A 5-8 cm slot is made at the bottom and in the center of the shovel. Each edge is bent in the direction opposite to each other. The sides of the shovel also bend slightly, being a logical continuation of the lower blades.
If the soil is soft, then a regular rotator will be ineffective. For this purpose, a mechanism with an extended cutting part is used. It resembles a kind of glass with longitudinal slots in which blades made of hardened steel are fixed.
Making a handheld excavation auger for personal use is not difficult. You just need to know how to use welding, a drill and other everyday construction tools many summer residents, and also understand the drawings a little.
We decided to dig a well at personal plot, but the budget does not allow you to buy a drill and hire workers? The question arises: how to make a drill for pillars yourself at home using auxiliary materials? In the article we will talk about methods for its manufacture and use when drilling a well.
Features of manual drilling
A home well means savings, water quality, and ease of maintenance. The services of drilling specialists are expensive, so many drill wells on their own. Sometimes this is the only way out of the situation if you plan to loosen the soil in a place where special equipment cannot enter. Is it difficult to drill the soil to the water yourself? It all depends on the depth of water in the chosen location and on compliance with drilling rules. Following all the rules, you can easily drill a well using a ready-made mechanism.
Spiral drill for hand drilling
You can make your own spiral or spoon-shaped drill from the most simple materials. A spiral drill is similar to a large-diameter drill; its main element is a cutting edge in the form of a spiral, which is a twisted and sharpened steel strip.
Most common with hand tools are a shovel and a hand drill
The width of the cutting edge that loosens the soil depends on the size of the required well. During drilling, the earth is pushed up and remains on the edges of the drill, so the process will need to be stopped and the rod cleaned. This design It is universal, because a spiral drill can loosen any soil.
Spoon drill for hand drilling
This type of drill has a cylindrical work surface and a metal rod. A slot of a spiral or longitudinal shape is made in the lower part of the tool. The edge of the slot is one centimeter from the base and acts like a spoon, which helps make the hole wider than the diameter of the cylinder. A spoon-shaped drill is used when loosening loamy soils, which allows you to drill a well in stages with the installation of pipes.
Making a drill yourself
How to make a drill with your own hands? To make a spiral drill, you will need the following tools:
- steel rod;
- Bulgarian;
- welding machine;
- roulette;
- disk made of hard, infusible material.
The basis of the design is the cutting part, or simply the drill Divide the latter into two equal parts and sharpen along the line of the circle and cut. The better the sharpening, the more effective further work with the drill will be. The rod is sharpened from one end and at a distance of 20 cm from the sharp tip, a notch is applied to the rod, and the cutting edges are welded along it at an angle of 20 degrees to the central axis and 40 degrees to each other.
A similar homemade drill is made from steel tape. It is heated and turned into a spiral at a pouring angle of 45 degrees. The finished product is welded to the rod.
How to make a spoon-shaped drill?
A spoon-shaped drill will help you dig a well more accurately. To make it, you will need a grinder, a metal drill, a welding machine, a metal rod and a hollow cylinder. First, you should cut the cylindrical base from the side and make a special grip in the form of a spoon from below. If the soil is loose, then make a larger cut. Earth gets inside the cylinder and cleaning needs to be done. The dimensions of the drill depend on the required dimensions of the well.
You can make a drill for poles with your own hands from old pipe, balloon. Using a grinder, cut a hole in the bottom of the element and weld the workpiece along the longitudinal seam. Weld a metal drill or a pointed metal plate to the end of the rod. Offset from the central axis – 1 cm. Use exclusively hard materials, capable of withstanding heavy loads.
The main advantages of this device are that the hole in the ground is very neat and accurate How to make a handle for a drill?
The handle is welded on top of the split pipe. Rolled metal is an excellent choice when making a handle. It bears the heaviest load during construction work. The handle must be well secured and should not wobble during rotation. To avoid injury, make it smooth and easy to use.
Split drill pipe
The drilling base is made in the form of a detachable pipe 150 cm long in order to loosen the earth to the required depth. It lengthens as the well deepens by adding sections, no more than 1 m in size.
Fastening split pipe sections
Fastening can be done using several methods:
- welded coupling;
- threaded coupling;
- fastening with nuts or bolts.
The coupling should be welded to the base or additional sections of the drill. The coupling is attached with a nut to the lower section. The drill must sometimes be lifted from the ground and cleaned by disassembling and reassembling.
The second option is to attach it to a thread. To prevent the elements from being separated, install a cotter pin.
Bolts and nuts are best used in drilling narrow wells; they are attached specifically to sections of the pipe. The method is not entirely reliable, so do not use it when working with dry soil.
To assemble it yourself, you will need either a welding machine, or bolts with nuts and a drill to drill holes for them Percussion-rope drilling
Another way to dig a well on a private plot with your own hands. You will need tools: a tripod, a winch, a cable and the drill itself. The average height of the tripod should be 2.5 meters; a block with a cable is attached to its upper part. The winch is located near the supports. The working tool is a part of a pipe with thick walls and a welded seam.
A metal strip is welded horizontally to the upper part, on which a cable loop is made, where the base is suspended. The soil is removed thanks to a slot 75 percent of the length of the base. Sharpen the lower edge of the pipe and make a special petal or ball-type grip inside. The soil will remain in the grip, so its height from the bottom edge of the pipe should be about 6 cm.
A hand drill is an indispensable thing on a personal plot. Drill holes to install fence posts or bored piles under the foundation, make holes in the garden soil for planting plants. There is always a use for this hand tool. Users of our portal know how to make this tool yourself, and whether it is possible to somehow improve factory-made devices.
Before you buy or make your own hand drill, you need to ask yourself the following questions:
- For what purposes and work do you need it;
- What type of soil will be drilled at the site.
Sand, rocky soil, abandoned garden soil, hard clay, loam, soil with a lot of roots. Drilling a hole for installing fence posts and posts of small diameter, drilling out “heavy” soil for powerful bored piles for the foundation of a house. All these factors have a significant impact on the design of a hand drill.
Sukhanov Mikhail User FORUMHOUSE
In my opinion, the best hand drill is the one that is “tailored” for work in a specific area, taking into account the characteristics of the soil and its layers. Those. earthen the drill must be made under certain tasks: installation of pillars, piles, etc.
A user of our portal offers the following mechanical design of the drill. How it was made can be clearly seen in this photo.
Two knives are used to preliminary loosen the soil, which simplifies the cutting of the main blades, set at an angle, into the ground. Moreover, the main blades can be made replaceable by attaching them to bolts and nuts. Thanks to this, it is possible to drill holes of different diameters using one rod.
Although outwardly purchased and homemade drills are in many ways similar, it is homemade hand drills that show top scores. They are stronger and more convenient to work with, because... they are made to suit you.
Sukhanov Mikhail
My neighbor and I once conducted the following experiment: we decided to compare the performance of my homemade drill (blade diameter 25 cm) and its purchased one (blade diameter 14 cm).
The soil on the forum member’s site is like this:
- 0.7-0.8 m – “fertility”;
- 0.2-0.4 m – coarse limestone stone;
- then a layer of marl (yellow, with fine limestone chips).
During the competition, the drillers almost simultaneously went 0.8 m deep. Then the purchased tool stumbled on the marl, while, working as a homemade garden drill, Michael continued to drill as if nothing had happened. The neighbor had to loosen the marl with a crowbar and only then drill further.
The result of the experiment: in order to drill a hole under a pillar 1 meter deep, Mikhail it took a little over 5 minutes, and he wasn’t tired at all. The neighbor fell hopelessly behind in the last 0.2 m.
T.N. universal drill, seemingly suitable for working on different soils, may be ineffective.
That is why homemade hand drill designs are so popular among users of our portal. To make one, it is enough waste materials and basic skills in welding.
The tool is made like this: take a round or square pipe, its length is selected depending on the expected depth of the hole. In the case of mechanical drilling of deep wells, the pipe can be extended by extending it with an additional rod. The diameter of the blades is selected depending on the expected diameter of the pit and the planned work.
Large-diameter saw blades from circular saws have worked well as blades. Such a disk is sawn into two parts with a grinder. The halves are welded to the pipe, and the blades must be spread to a certain angle (approximately 25-30°). This way they penetrate better into the ground. A lance or a large-diameter “killed” drill is welded to the end of the pipe. The tip is needed to center the drill at the beginning of drilling. Due to the saw teeth on the blades, such a tool cuts roots well when rotating.
The main thing when working with a hand drill is to stop in time and lift it out of the pit in order to dump the rock.
Boston User FORUMHOUSE, Moscow.
I've made it to the start summer season two earth drillers. The first is with a diameter of 210 mm, the second is 160 mm. Circular discs were used on the blades. The rest was made from what was literally lying under our feet. I also made a collapsible extension rod. I spent 200 rubles on everything, as they say, cheap and cheerful.
If you don't have it at hand welding machine, then such a tool can only be assembled using bolts and nuts. You can also use a used ice auger as a drill for light soil and for drilling small-diameter holes (since buying a new one is an economically unjustified idea). For ease of operation of the ice device, you need to cut off the handle-turn and attach a standard T-shaped collar.
In addition to the tools described above, an interesting approach to making a homemade drill for drilling wells in the ground from a forum member with the nickname VyacheslavK.
A conventional earth drill was used to drill to a depth of 2.5 m. A forum member cut the blades from a piece with a grinder sheet metal 3 mm thick, onto which a paper template was previously glued.
Then a hole with a diameter of 20 mm was drilled in the resulting workpiece.
A cut was made along the radius of the circle.
The pin has been sharpened.
The result is a drilling device like this.
During the work, the following shortcomings were identified and eliminated:
- The blades are brought together during drilling, which significantly reduces drilling efficiency. To prevent the blades from collapsing, bracing partitions were welded between them and to the pipe.
- When drilling holes for installing a fence, the tool, if it bumped into stones or roots, was pulled to the side. To eliminate this drawback, an arcuate side of 30x10 cm was welded one blade at a time, starting from the bend of the circle.
- Low efficiency when passing through oily clay. For working with clay, the so-called was made. frame drill designed by a user of our site with a nickname KND.
This device is best suited for working with lamellar clays. It has a minimum coefficient of friction against the rock. It is easy to remove from the pit (there is no “piston effect”, like auger drill). After lifting the drill, the clay is simply shaken out of the frame.
Although such a tool is most often used when drilling homemade water wells, its design turned out to be so successful that it is worth focusing on it.
VyacheslavK did this:
From a strip of metal 5 cm wide, he cut two identical strips and made angular bevels, moving 2 cm from the end of the strip. For the strips, you can use old car springs.
Cut and sharpened knives.
I welded the knives to the drill, pointing the sharpened sides in opposite directions.
I spread the knives apart using a corner so that the distance between the ends was 25 cm.
Using a gas key VyacheslavK turned the knives at an angle.
I assembled and welded the entire structure.
It is worth noting that the drill quickly broke off. That's why VyacheslavK sharpened the fragment, as shown in the next photo.
When making a frame drill, it should be taken into account that it is not suitable for working in loose, loose soil, because it doesn't stay in the frame.
Also interesting are the designs intended for making a widening - “heel” - during the construction of the TISE foundation.
Subarist User FORUMHOUSE
I modified the purchased drill and installed a second folding shovel on it. To make it easier to work, I made a T-handle 1 m long. Thus, I increased the force on the lever. The length of the rod is 3 meters. Now you can drill holes 2 meters deep while standing in full height, not all fours. I cut off the teeth from the land receiver because they are of little use.
The “improvement” did not end there. To increase the efficiency of the earth auger when drilling out a widening, Subarist I bent the blades - the straight blades did not cut the ground well. The forum member’s future plans include installing blades made of alloy steel, because... ordinary ones quickly become dull on stones.
For owners of personal plots, a garden drill is necessary tool. A rotator is used to make wells of different depths. It is not possible to drill the soil everywhere - where there is rocky soil with large inclusions hard rocks, the drill cannot be used. In soft soils, a hand-made earth drill made with your own hands effectively copes with excavating fairly deep soil.
The construction of fences, supports for greenhouses, and foundations of small buildings is carried out using an earth drill. In places where there is no central water supply, using a hand drill to reach the aquifer. Homemade tools develop cavities in the soil for the construction of reinforced concrete piles. The dug wells are filled with reinforcement and liquid concrete, obtaining columnar ones for structures on a personal plot.
Design
Many options are published in the media homemade designs hand tools. They are united by one idea - to excavate soil of a certain diameter and depth using physical strength person.
A hand drill consists of several main parts:
- holder (handle);
- shaft (rod);
- extension cords;
- cutting head (screw);
- crowbar (peak).
Holder
The handle of the tool is a power lever, which, with the help of the worker’s hands, imparts a rotational movement through the shaft to the cutting body of the drill. The steel holder is made of the same diameter as the shaft pipe. This usually looks like a "T". The handle is welded perpendicular to the rod. There are models where the handle is attached coaxially to the shaft with several bends. Tubes are placed on the vertical parts of the holder so that the worker’s hands are not subject to friction from the handle.
Shaft
The barbell is made from water pipe. The diameter of the rod varies from ½ to 1 inch. There is no point in making the shaft thicker - it will require more effort to rotate the drill. A holder is welded at one end of the axle, and on the other side a cutting head is attached, ending with a pointed drill (pick).
Extension Cords
Additional shaft sections allow you to increase the penetration depth of the cutting head to 10–15 m. The sections are equipped with screw connections. The length of the shaft is increased by installing additional sections of the rod.
Cutting head
The main working part of the drill is designed to loosen the soil and push it up. The planes of the blades, cutting off layers of soil, accumulate earth on their surface. The soil is removed the next time the device is pulled out of the well to the surface.
Scrap
The shaft guide can be made in the form large drill or a sharply sharpened blade. The lance enters strictly vertically into the ground, thereby fixing the direction of passage of the drill. The crowbar preliminary loosens the soil in the center of the well, which makes it easier for the cutters to cut out the soil layer.
The design of the hole drill may be slightly different, equipped with additional devices - this does not change the structure of the tool.
Popular designs of homemade drills
From the whole mass of homemade products, the most popular models of drills can be distinguished:
- Bladed.
- Auger.
- Lozhkovy.
- Shock.
- Shovel-drill.
- TISE drill.
Bladed
The design of the cutting block of a bladed hole drill consists of two blades welded to a shaft, the edges of the planes of which are separated from each other by an angle of 300.
In order to make a hole drill with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:
Tools
- electric welding machine;
- angle machine;
- electric drill;
- mites;
- roulette;
- hammer;
- compass;
- vice;
- sharpener
Materials
- inch steel pipe;
- steel sheet;
- inch couplings;
- inch nuts;
- old drill ø 30 mm or steel strip;
- welding electrodes.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a paddle drill
Having prepared the tools and materials, perform the following steps:
- An abrasive wheel is used to cut the pipe into sections 400 mm and 1200 mm long.
- On metal sheet Use a compass to draw a circle ø 300 mm.
- The circle is cut out with an angle machine.
- A hole is drilled in the center of the circle, which is then bored to ø 33.5 mm.
- The circle is placed on a shaft (pipe 1200 mm long) at a distance of 50 mm from the lower end of the rod.
- The disk is welded to the shaft.
- Using an angle machine, the disc is cut into two halves.
- The shaft is clamped in a vice and the edges of the circle are spread at an angle of 300 using pliers.
- I sharpen the edges of the disc on a sharpener.
- The middle of the pipe, 400 mm long, is welded to the upper end of the rod.
- If you can’t find an old drill of a suitable diameter, take a steel strip 50 x 30 x 3 mm.
- One end of the strip is sharpened into a peak, and the other side is welded to the bottom of the shaft.
- If it is necessary to drill wells with a depth of 2 meters or more, extensions are prepared from pipe sections 1200 mm long.
- A water coupling is welded to one side of the segment so that half internal thread was free.
- A thread is cut at the other end of the segment. It’s better not to do this yourself, but to order the work from a turner.
- A nut is placed on the pipe and welded so that the thread remains outside.
- I cut the drill shaft in the middle, and threaded connections are also made.
When making another version of a paddle drill, they take a simpler route. They take saw blade from circular saw and cut it in half. Weld two parts of the disk with a blade spread of 300.
The drill will do its job much more efficiently thanks to the sharp, serrated edges of the cutters.
Screw
There is a sample auger in every kitchen. This is the internal screw in any meat grinder. An auger drill is also installed. The cutting head is a stretched spiral of continuous cross-section. The screw can consist of 2 or more turns. The design of the cutting unit has greater productivity than the paddle model.
Circles of steel sheet are cut to the center. The edges are bent at an angle of 300. Then the cut disks are welded into a single spiral, the turns are welded to the shaft.
Spoon
A spoon drill is used to develop soft soils. The principle of operation of the spoon device is based on the accumulation of mined-out soil in the cylindrical body of the device. A spoon drill is made from a thick-walled pipe.
Whatever its diameter will be, such will be the diameter of the well. When the shaft rotates, the spoon accumulates waste, which is knocked out of the cylinder the next time the device is removed from the well.
To manufacture the device you will need a set of metalworking tools and an electric welding machine.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a spoon drill:
- A longitudinal cut is made in the pipe with an oval top and bottom.
- The edges of the cutout are sharpened.
- The upper and lower holes of the pipe are welded with steel circles.
- The top of the pipe is welded to the rod.
- The axes of the shaft and spoon should be shifted by 1 - 1.5 cm relative to each other. This is necessary so that when rotating the spoon performs a rowing motion.
- A thick drill or spike is welded to the bottom plug, as in the previous version of the drill.
- The split shaft is made with threaded connections(see paddle drill).
- Additional sections of the rod are also manufactured.
- All cutting surfaces must be hardened - this will ensure long term drill services.
Shock
This type of construction is used only for drilling wells in soft soil. The principle of operation of the drill is that a pipe sleeve with sharpened edges is driven into the soil by the force of an impact or under its own weight.
The captured soil is compacted in the body of the sleeve. The soil is then knocked out of the pipe and work continues until the desired well depth is reached. The drilling method is used to obtain workings of small depth.
Step-by-step instructions for making an impact drill
- A piece of pipe is sharpened on one side.
- The other hole is welded tightly with a circle of steel.
- A loop is welded to the top of the sleeve.
- A tripod made of a metal profile or wooden beam is installed above the site of the future well.
- A cable block is attached to the top of the tripod.
- A horizontal drum with a cable is installed on supports next to the structure.
- The end of the cable is inserted through the block and connected to the loop of the impact sleeve.
By rotating the drum handle, the sleeve is raised to its maximum height. The released handle creates a condition for the cartridge case to fall into the well. The operation is repeated until the desired excavation depth is achieved.
Shovel-drill
In gardening, a shovel-drill brings significant benefits. This device is convenient to use for the device seats for various seedlings of trees and plants.
The shovel is cut with metal scissors in several places to form blades. The notched planes are bent in the desired direction to obtain a weather vane-shaped structure.
TISE drill
A special type of drilling device is TISE drills. The abbreviation TISE stands for “Technology individual construction and Ecology". The design was invented by the Soviet engineer R.N. Yakovlev.
The drill is designed to excavate cavities in the soil for the subsequent formation of monolithic columnar foundations with an expanded base.
The TISE drill is equipped with a wide soil receiver, which accumulates mined-out soil with small stone inclusions. When the drill reaches the bottom of the well, a folding blade is activated, which expands as it lowers lateral surface production.
Making a TISE drill with your own hands
- Along the entire length of the rod and additional sections, metal tubes of small diameter are welded for the passage of the cable.
- A hinge is welded to the rod above the cutting blade, to which the folding blade is attached.
- Closer to the edge of the blade, a loop is welded into which the cable is inserted. It is removed from the guide tube.
- The cable at the top ends in a loop, large enough to be grasped by a worker’s hand, or a special lever is made.
- As the base of the well expands, the cable is gradually released.
- A rim of a soil receiver made of a steel strip is installed around the blades.
- Upon completion of the expansion of the base of the columnar foundation, the drill is removed and the soil is removed from the storage tank.
Conclusion
When making a hand drill, craftsmen rely on their experience, the availability of this or that equipment, materials, the characteristics of the soil base and the need for the size and depth of the wells. Anyway, homemade device will cost much less than purchasing a factory product.
A hand drill is necessary for construction when repair work. In addition, it is often used when working in the garden or vegetable garden. Using this item, it is very convenient and quick to dig deep and narrow holes that are needed for planting trees or for installing supports during the process of pouring the foundation. In addition, the drill cannot be replaced with any other tool when drilling wells. Few people know that you can make a manual post drill yourself, saving a significant amount of money. Everything you need to make this an indispensable tool, - This detailed instructions, describing how to make a drill, availability necessary materials, tools and, of course, patience.
Using a hand auger, it is convenient to dig narrow holes for posts or planting trees.
It should be noted that the use of a hand drill is not intended for soil with stone impurities. The soil should have a clay or loamy base. In this case, the drill, as a rule, is made from high-quality materials. In this case, its service life may be unlimited.
Materials and tools
Before you begin, you need to make sure that you have all the materials and tools available. It will be much more convenient to work if everything you need is at hand.
In order to do this, you need to have:
- welding machine;
- welding clamps;
- grinders with a cutting disc for iron;
- electric drills;
- pairs of gas keys;
- dies, the diameter of which must match the diameter of the rod;
- die holder;
- vice.
Materials for making a drill: grinder disc, drill, pipes.
As practice shows, the use in this case of simple cutting inserts with sufficient large diameter, is unable to give the desired effect. A hand drill made from such material will take away your energy and time in the process of drilling earth holes. In order to avoid such a result, professionals recommend supplementing such a tool with two shortened pre-rippers. In this case, a hand-made drill made by yourself will be much more effective, and working with it will take noticeably less time.
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Device
A hand drill consists of the following elements:
- Pen.
- Insert.
- Cutting attachment.
- Clutch.
- Bolt with nut.
- Cutting blades.
- Guide rod.
- Blade.
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Manufacturing of pre-rippers
As for the worm version of the tool, making it yourself is quite difficult. Taking this into account, it is possible to replace the stepped auger with two welded pre-rippers having an increasing diameter of the cutting material. In this case, the soil resistance is evenly distributed over the steps, and the amount of force applied for one revolution of the drilling device around its axis is noticeably reduced.
The purpose of the first pre-ripper is to crumble dense soil, then cut a wider radius of the hole and supply the already loosened soil to the surface of the disk ripper.
The disk ripper performs the function of forming the walls of the hole, as well as pushing part of the soil upward. During one such process, the depth of the dug well can reach 40-50 cm. In the case of a large load, working with a hand drill will be quite difficult.
A good material for making pre-rippers can be car spring, the thickness of which is at least 5 mm.
To sharpen the cutting edge of such a ripper, it is necessary to maintain a certain angle. This element should be butt welded to the main rod, after which you can begin welding the next section of the rod. The next step is to attach the second pre-ripper element to it (end-to-end). Finally, all that remains is to weld the sharp part of the rod. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the ratio of all segments, since otherwise backlash may occur.
As for the disk, the function of which is to form the walls of the hole, for its manufacture it is recommended to use processed circular saw designed for woodworking. Its thickness must be at least 3 mm. The disk is cut into two equal parts, after which its cut edges need to be sharpened. The next step is to weld the resulting pair of elements onto the main rod, while maintaining the same angle. In this way, you will be able to avoid displacement of forces, as a result of which the dug wells may turn out crooked.
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Threading
At the opposite end of the rod it is necessary to cut a thread onto which it will subsequently be screwed coupling. For this purpose you will need a vice and a special die. Clamp the barbell (end up) in a strong vise, maintaining a right angle. In this case, it is recommended to monitor the protrusion of the rod, which should not exceed 10 cm. Otherwise, completely undesirable depreciation may occur at the moment when the die is subjected to pressure. Using a file, grind the end to form a cone. This will guarantee that the die will sit correctly and evenly on the bar. After this, you can begin cutting work.
There is nothing complicated in the thread cutting process. The die holder rotates slowly clockwise. If a die gets stuck during work, twist it and sharpen the interfering burr. After this, screw the die back onto the finished part of the thread and continue cutting to the planned mark. The most optimal thread is considered to be 10 cm long.
The next step is to screw a coupling onto the thread, which is welded onto the main rod in the area of the connecting seam. At this point, you can safely assume that you have completed the main part of making a hand drill with your own hands.
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Making a pen
The handle or rotating part of the hand drill is welded strictly at right angles in a T-shape. The main bar itself can have a length of 40 to 50 cm. The recommended width of the handle should be no more than shoulder width. The fact is that the rod's resistance to rotational force is limited. If it is exceeded, the rod may twist, as a result of which the hand-held pole drill will become unsuitable for work. In order to avoid such troubles, limit the effort and gradually drill the ground in moderate parts.
Before you start welding, secure the handle to the rod using a welding clamp, making sure the corners are straight. This way you will not only save correct angle, but you will also be sure that the handle will not move to the side. The weld should be along the end side of the main rod. On at this stage you should work as carefully as possible. It is worth considering that the reliability and service life of the future drill depend on the quality of this joint. Since the seam takes on all the stress, don’t skimp on the electrodes.
The uneven joints are ground down using a grinder; this will not only give the tool a more aesthetic appearance, but will also eliminate cuts on your hands that you can get while using a hand drill. Having welded the handle, a connecting thread is cut at the other end of the main rod in the same way as the previous one.
