Our Russian Kulibins can do everything, so a homemade ice drill is not a problem for us, if only the task had been set.
First, let’s decide what manufacturing process we have ahead of us, because every thing can be:
- make from scratch;
- modify;
- retool.
Today's editorial assignment obliges us to talk about making an ice drill with our own hands from scratch and modifying existing models with gasoline engines using a gearbox.
What won't we talk about?
In this material you will not read about converting manual ice augers into electric ones by connecting a screwdriver to them. There will be no description of this process, since there is no actual do-it-yourself manufacturing here, but rather the connection of three parts: a screw, an adapter and a drill together.
Manufacturing from scratch
It’s scary to even begin to describe this complex process. Without metalworking, turning, welding and milling abilities and skills, it is simply unrealistic to make an ice screw with your own hands. For craftsmen, this is probably not very difficult, so let’s get started.
To describe the manufacturing process, we have selected several models:
- spatula;
- annular;
- frame;
- screw
They have one thing in common - the upper part with handles, or the brace. Therefore, first we will try to make it.
Even this is a rather complicated process for an uninitiated person, judge for yourself:
- We select a pipe of suitable diameter.
- On the ground or floor we draw out the bends of our brace.
- We pour dry sand into the pipe and plug it with plugs so that it does not spill out. If you bend without sand, the metal may be damaged.
- We bend the pipe using gas burner or a blowtorch.
- We weld a bracket to the bottom of the rotor to connect it to the auger.
- We drill holes on the handle like on a factory Barnaul drill.
- We sand and paint the workpiece.
- We buy in the store repair kit for the Tonar ice drill.
- We strengthen the upper and middle handles from the kit in the prepared holes.
The rotator is ready, the most difficult task remains - manufacturing the lower part of the mechanism.
Spatula
This homemade ice screw is easier than others to make. A cutting part cut from a steel plate is simply welded onto the lower pipe. It is slightly bent in the form of a spatula, one edge of which is sharpened with sandpaper.
Although such a drill can make a hole in ice, and it is cheap and easy to manufacture, it still has plenty of disadvantages:
- gets dull quickly;
- the absence of an auger forces you to frequently scoop out the slush;
- slowly cuts ice;
- difficult to rotate.
Annular
At the base of such a drill there is a ring with knives and an attached frame. At the top, the frame is connected to the pipe, and the pipe to the brace. The steel strip is twisted into a spiral and point-fixed to the frame. It turns out to be a completely workable model.
Frame
This DIY ice screw is also easy to make. Let us describe this process in detail:
- We weld a sharp tip into the pipe for centering on ice.
- In the lower part, we weld steel rods to the pipe on both sides at an angle of 30 degrees.
- At the bottom we connect them with a strip with an axis made of a pipe. You should end up with two triangles, the largest angle of which is approximately eighty degrees.
- We drill holes in the plates and fasten the knives using bolts and nuts.
- We adjust the attack angles of the knives using additional pads made of metal plates and washers of different thicknesses.
The sludge from the holes made by an ice auger of this design will also have to be scooped out using a scoop.
Screw
This cannot be completely done at home. If someone thinks that the whole problem is with the auger, then this is not so. The main part of such a mechanism is the base for the knives. It can only be made by specialists in workshops.
Let's skip the process of creating this part and describe the rest of the process:
- We weld a part to the top of the pipe to connect it to the brace.
- We also attach it to the bottom for welding. seat for knives.
- From sheet metal cut circles.
- We cut them to the center from one edge and bend them in the form of an auger blade.
- Having bent a sufficient number of blanks, we weld them to the pipe.
- We sand and paint the resulting product.
- We connect both parts of the ice screw into one.
- We screw the knives.
Motorization modification
In this part of our story we will talk about converting a trimmer or chainsaw into an ice drill. The main issues that arise during this work are the manufacture of the adapter and the selection of the gearbox.
An ice drill from a new type of chainsaw, such as those produced by Stihl, Hoogsvarna or Chinese comrades, also requires the manufacture of an additional ergonomic handle. Our old friendship does not require such alteration.
Converting a trimmer into an ice screw is most suitable for models with a folding shaft. An adapter for connecting such a mechanism to a screw is the easiest to make.
Each chainsaw or trimmer model requires its own modifications, so there is not just one universal recipe manufacturing. Best to find experienced craftsman and come to him with your tool and together make a decision and draw a diagram for manufacturing the required adapter.
No less important for working on winter fishing gearbox for ice auger. With its help, the rotation parameters of the shafts are changed, reducing or increasing the speed. This greatly affects the quality and speed of drilling holes.
If the adapter is specially machined, then the gearbox is selected from some operating mechanism, for example, from a roller conveyor.
An important task is right choice auger for an ice drill, it is desirable that it coincides in the direction of rotation with that of a gasoline tool.
It is important to make an ice drill from a chainsaw carefully, taking into account the slightest nuances, because the alteration is very painstaking and expensive, and ready product will be used for a long time. It is important to make sure that ready-made tool was easy to repair and maintain, parts were accessible and interchangeable.
To create a well or carry out another type of earthworks It is not only large-scale drilling rigs operated by specialists that can be used. On a small scale and with enough time, simpler equipment can be used.
One of these tools is an earth drill - a device that comes in many variations and varieties. It is most in demand for gardening and summer cottage work; it is also used in various industries.
1 Design and purpose of the drill
An excavation drill is a device that is used to create cylindrical holes in the soil (to be more precise, its upper layers are drilled). It consists of a rod (rod), handle and drive. At the bottom of the rod there is a guide tip and a helical blade, mainly made in the form of cutters or cutters.
All drills can be divided into two categories: devices that require the use of manual force, and automatic drills equipped with motors.
2 Types of drills
The classification of portable drilling devices, depending on the type of drive, is carried out into three groups: electric drill, hydraulic earth drill, and gasoline devices.
Gasoline drills are the most extensive category of equipment. A gasoline earth auger (also known as a motor auger) is the best option for domestic use if the capabilities of a conventional hand auger are not enough. It easily opens layers of soil up to 2-3 meters deep; in fact, the depth of the well is limited only by the size of the rod extension.
In addition to devices for economic use, there is a category of heavy gas drills for construction: these are fairly large mechanisms that are controlled by two operators. They are equipped with high-power engines that allow you to make wells in problematic soils: hard soil, sandy soil, or soil with high content mountain inclusions.
The main feature of such devices is that all engines are equipped with a gearbox, through which the engine torque is transmitted to the rock-breaking element. Depending on the class of the device, two types of gearboxes can be installed on it: for heavy drills - worm gears, for light drills - coaxial gearboxes. The fuel usually used is gasoline mixed with 92 oil.
The design of the motor drill consists of the following elements:
- Drive: for heavy ones - 3-4 stroke engines, for light ones - two-stroke;
- Handle for holding;
- Control elements: power adjustment, speed switching;
- Augers are usually used as a forage destruction element.
The cost of devices for household use starts from 10 thousand rubles. When purchasing, you should first of all pay attention to such manufacturers as Hitachi, Husqvarna, Stihl - these are well-established companies whose products have an optimal price-performance ratio.
There is also a large number of companies where possible. In general, renting is great option, if you only need the device for a few days. Today, rent, on average in the market, costs about 1000 rubles per day, plus you will need to pay a deposit of 5-10 thousand.
Electric drills are a less popular option compared to the previous one, but still common and well-known.
The only structural difference between such mechanisms and gas drills is the electric motor - all other elements are identical. The use of an electric drive adds both advantages and certain disadvantages to the device.
The indisputable advantages of electric drills include their noiselessness, since, unlike a gasoline engine, the electric drive is practically inaudible.
The disadvantages are the following: electric motors have relatively less power than gasoline ones, that is, for the same money you can buy a more powerful gas drill than a device with an electric motor.
For domestic use this is not particularly important, but in the case of professional use this factor can become critical. It is also worth remembering that the device must be connected to the network, which somewhat reduces its portability, since any batteries have the unpleasant feature of running out at the most inopportune moment.
The cost of high-quality electric drills starts from 15 thousand. The main manufacturers are Makita, Mora, Hitachi. Rent – from 1000 rubles per day.
Hydraulic drills are a serious category industrial installations. The main advantage of such drills over gasoline and electrical devices– reverse function, which makes it possible to drill both clockwise and counterclockwise. Thanks to it, it is much easier to pass through problematic soil layers.
In addition, hydraulic motors, in comparison with electric drives, are 2-3 times smaller in size and much lighter in weight, which makes a hydraulic earth drill more convenient to use.
But even with the same drive size, a hydraulic earth drill will always have more power. Hydraulic motors provide the most flexible control of shaft speed, which allows you to select optimal mode drilling into different layers of soil.
The only significant drawback of drills with hydraulic motors is the “delicacy” of the drive. It is necessary to always maintain its cleanliness, since mechanical contamination inside the drive significantly reduces the service life of the device.
A hydraulic earth drill, in comparison with analogues, is several times more expensive. So, the average price is 30-35 thousand. Renting hydraulic drills will cost you from 1.5 to 2 thousand per day. It is also possible to rent a hydraulic drill with operators, in which case you will pay for one hour of time. This rental will cost you about 1 thousand rubles per hour.
2.1 How to make a drill with your own hands?
If you do not want to purchase something that you can make yourself, or you are not satisfied with the expensive rental of equipment, then you can try to make a mechanical earth drill with your own hands.
To create homemade drill The following tools are needed:
- Welding machine;
- Grinder (with metal circles);
- Small repair equipment - hammer, metal brush, pliers, sandpaper.
It is also necessary to acquire the materials from which the structure will be made:
- For the rod - fittings 150 cm long, 15 mm in diameter. (adjust the height of the drill depending on your height);
- For the handle - fittings, or a metal pipe 40 centimeters long, with a diameter of 20 mm;
- For a cutter - a disk from a circular saw, or a sheet of metal 3-4 mm thick;
- For the “needle” (guide element) – a metal drill with a diameter of 15 mm.
A homemade hand drill for excavation work is made as follows:
- We manufacture drill cutters (blades). If you take a disk from a circular saw to do this, you can save a significant amount of time and effort.
- To make a cutter from such a disk, cut it in half, and on each half grind off the blades with which the disk was originally equipped. There is no need to sharpen the edges of the cutters at first, so as not to cut yourself during the welding process - the sharpness is imparted after all the connections are completed.
- If using ordinary metal, make approximate markings on the sheet and cut out two blanks with a grinder. Their size depends on the purpose for which the manual excavation drill will be used - for, or a well for planting trees.
- If there is no clear goal, then the best option “for all occasions” are cutters from 15 to 20 mm.
- We prepare the fittings for the rod. It is not recommended to make a rod from two small pieces of reinforcement welded together, since sooner or later, due to soil resistance, their connection will disintegrate.
- A metal drill is welded to the end of the rod; it acts as a homemade guide element (the optimal length of the drill is from 7 to 10 centimeters)
- We weld cutters to the junction of the reinforcement and the drill on the rod. This should be done so that there is an angle of 30 degrees between them.
- We take an angle grinder and put it on abrasive wheel on metal, and sharpen the edges of the cutters: remove the upper and lower layers of metal along the outer edges of the semicircles.
- We make a handle: a piece of reinforcement, or a steel pipe, is welded perpendicular to the top of the rod.
You can also make a slightly improved design - a homemade hand drill for excavation work with an extendable rod. To do this, a bolt is welded to the drill handle, and a nut is welded to the top of the rod. A piece is used as an extension cord metal pipe, on the edges of which a bolt and nut are welded, identical in size to those welded to the handle and rod.
2.2 Construction and application of the drill (video)
As a fisherman, you have learned what it is like to carry a Russian ice auger to a fishing spot when it is -20 °C outside. As an owner, you have experienced the feelings of a man who dug 20 holes with a shovel while building a fence.
Domestic ice screws no longer attract you with their affordability and unproductiveness. You come to a store selling small mechanization equipment in order to buy imported products.
The numbers on the price tag are significant, but the amount of work on your site does not correspond to them. Buy an expensive tool for seasonal work- an irrational decision. And you once bought a chainsaw, but it turned out to be not so necessary.
This chainsaw can be turned into a presentable looking motor drill. Thanks to your ingenuity, you'll get two tools and save a lot of money.
Characteristics of motorized drills
If you're wondering whether a homemade tool is worth the time and effort, then you don't know how much small excavation work can be done in literally an hour.
You can drill holes for poles, lanterns, for planting trees, build foundations, and design the site in accordance with your aesthetic taste and needs, without resorting to renting special equipment or manual digging.
If an earth drill can handle some hard types of soil, it can also handle ice more than a meter thick. On winter fishing, you will be fishing, and not drilling ice holes.
Criteria for a good self-made motor drill:
- Power. For household needs, at least 3 horsepower is enough. The engine power of some modifications reaches 6 liters. pp., but it all depends on the operating conditions.
You can operate a compact and lightweight drill yourself; a more powerful one will require the presence of another operator.
- Engine capacity plays the same role as power. The more cubic centimeters of fuel mixture the engine holds, the wider the capabilities of the power tool.
The main guideline when choosing volume is the nature of the soil. Alumina, sand, frozen soil require different engine characteristics.
- Functionality, drilling ability. Which auger will the engine “pull”? What will be the diameter of the screw in millimeters? Is it easy to pick up an auger in a store, or are there difficulties with delivery?
Does the auger package include an extension cord, is it provided for specific model? By answering these questions, the user will be able to determine which tool he needs.
If you are interested in making a high-quality motor drill yourself, you need to add that the fruit of your efforts will not depend on your talent. The process will require knowledge of turning and awareness of the principles of operation of simple mechanisms.
There is nothing difficult about making a motor drill with your own hands. If you know about gearboxes, you can bore a bushing of the required diameter and build a high-quality mount.
You can't do without some abilities here. Enlist the help of a familiar locksmith if you do not have practical skills in working with parts.
Chainsaw motor drill
When faced with a similar question for the first time, you may be surprised that a chainsaw is used not only for sawing wood. This is just one area of application.
A chainsaw can make an elegant gas cutter, a winch, a drill, a boat motor, a debarker, a device for cutting logs into boards, etc.
Functionality guaranteed design features chainsaws:
- unpretentious and reliable engine;
- sealed supply of the fuel mixture, leakage of which is only possible if the chainsaw is turned over;
- The main thing is a power take-off system that is understandable to everyone. The output shaft of the chainsaw allows you to attach any attachment.
Therefore, it is advisable to use a chainsaw as the basis for a new device. There is no need to sacrifice it for the sake of a motor drill: you disconnect the drill bit, install the saw and start sawing the logs.
The chainsaw engine is designed for long-term and intensive use, so you don’t have to worry about breakdowns or poor performance of the task.
Theoretically, it is possible to make a similar power tool from a trimmer, lawn mower or grinder.
In practice, this is quite difficult due to the unusual design of the gearbox. Problems may arise due to insufficient power take-off or incorrect rotation of the drill auger.
Progress
So, how to make a motor drill with your own hands from a chainsaw?
Prepare your chainsaw. In most cases, the Soviet Shtil saw is used.
The auger should rotate at low speed. We need to find a way to reduce the speed so that the output is as much as necessary for safe work with a motor drill. Therefore, in order to make a motor drill with your own hands, you will need a gearbox.
V-belt and worm gearboxes perform the same role, despite their design differences. But in this case, worm gear is preferable.
Note: The efficiency of a worm gear is lower than that of a V-belt. The worm gear heats up faster, but it can be installed directly on the shaft of the base mechanism. None couplings or mechanical gears will not be needed.
The large gear of the V-belt gearbox must drive the auger!
You have figured out the gearbox. But where can I get it? It's better to buy. On the Internet you can find stories about daredevils who, armed with a grinder, a screwdriver and a hammer, disassemble old tools and remove gearboxes from them. Also an option, but unreliable and barbaric.
The gearbox and chainsaw motor need to be fastened together. At this point, you may need the help of a locksmith. Usually a bushing of the required diameter is bored - it serves as a connecting link.
Additional fasteners are needed. You can't buy it anywhere. This handmade, the mount for each device is selected individually.
Left pick up the drill and knives for it. The drill and auger must coincide in the direction of rotation if the device is prefabricated. The most popular are “Tonnar”, “Mora”, “Hitachi”. The cost usually does not exceed 5000 rubles.
It is advisable to choose “native” knives that are not made in China, especially if you will use a motor drill for drilling holes during winter fishing.
Chinese ones burst, fall off, crack and cannot always be repaired by welding.
Using a homemade power tool, you can drill a hole with a maximum diameter of 150 mm. What, how and with what to drill, practice will best tell you. Everyone chooses for themselves best option operation.
Motor drill from a drill
It is much easier to build a similar device from a drill. High power is a mandatory characteristic of a drill. It is better to use a hammer drill.
The process will be less labor-intensive, because there is no need to look for a gearbox - it is included in the design of the hammer drill. In addition, drills are those devices that are assembled with a drill without additional parts.
The safety clutch is installed between the output shaft and the shaft of the driven drill. It prevents additional load from being placed on the gearbox and auger, so it doesn't get stuck.
Rotary hammers are always equipped with reverse, unlike drills.
Making a motor drill with your own hands from a drill is a little more difficult:
- Need to choose a drill with a power of at least 2 kW having a receiver. The brand and year of manufacture do not matter.
- Buy a worm gearbox (used) from gear ratio 1:25 . You can purchase a coaxial one, but using it can be inconvenient.
- A screw - either buy it or weld it yourself.
- Fasten all elements into a technologically complete structure. You may have to ask for help at this stage, although if you have the tools, materials and logic, you can design the fastener yourself.
The main thing is that it is durable, neat and does not interfere with the normal operation of the motor drill.
The advantage of a chainsaw over a drill is its autonomy. The drill is powered by the mains, which narrows its scope of application, and a “chainsaw” motor drill can be used in winter fishing conditions.
Drill advantage: fuel mixture There is no oil in it either. The drill can operate at sub-zero temperature, and the chainsaw freezes. You have to spend time warming it up.
Driller's Reminder
Creative inventors can mount a motorized or electric drill on a trolley. If the tool is often used on the farm, this will be convenient.
Before self-production for power tools, calculate the possible costs (gearbox, drill, auger, knives).
Compare with the cost of a new auger. If the difference in favor of a homemade product is significant, it makes sense to make efforts to make it.
It is not for nothing that the gearbox is considered the most important element of a motor drill. The number of output revolutions must meet the requirements for operating comfort.
A high RPM will keep the driller on his toes and the auger will continue to rotate even after the unit is turned off. Is it dangerous.
On the other hand, low speeds lead to a longer time period required to complete specific task. Your arms and back will get tired.
A correctly selected gearbox is the key to your “friendship” with the motor drill.
Do you know how to choose a two-row one according to three criteria?
You can learn interesting things from specifications tower crane KB-403.
An article has been prepared for you at the following address to help you make your choice. hand cultivator for the dacha.
Do not put pressure on the tool while drilling. It can be difficult to control, especially when the auger hits a rock. Be prepared for this and keep your distance.
Failure to comply with safety regulations has the same consequences, regardless of whether it is factory or homemade instrument you are working.
Before work, stretch your hands - you will be more resistant to the vagaries of a motor drill.
If you have old chainsaws, hand drills, drills, or grinders lying around in your attic, don’t rush to get rid of them.
These tools will help you make a new expensive device that will open up wide possibilities for you.
The information obtained by watching the video can be applied in practice - when creating a motor drill with your own hands:
If you've ever tried to dig holes for, for example, fence pegs, then you know what a tedious and tedious task it is. I recently had the same need at my dacha. Only the holes had to be made not for the fence, but for the piles on which the foundation would subsequently rest frame house. According to the design, there should be a lot of these piles; drilling so many holes by hand is simply unrealistic. Accordingly, I became interested in ways to automate/mechanize the soil drilling process.
It was immediately discovered that similar tasks had already been set for humanity and, therefore, such cool things as motorized earth drills were invented. Typically, this is a frame with two handles (so that two people can hold it) on which the Gas engine with gearbox to increase torque. Rotation from the gearbox shaft is transmitted to a special earth drill, it is also called an auger. Such devices are not cheap - from 10 to 100 kilorubles.
You can also rent a tractor-mounted hole drill. This is provided that you can get close to the drilling site. There are modifications with a special long manipulator, which is very convenient. Such a hole drill drives up to the desired area, secures itself there, and immediately drills a whole bunch of holes within a radius of up to 8 meters. But I liked this option least of all, because I really wanted my own drill: I wanted it - I woke up at night and went to drill holes!
In general, I was almost ready to buy a Hitachi gas drill for my excavation work, but then fate gave me an amazing surprise in the person of my neighbor, who, out of the blue, started talking about his earth electric drill, which he didn’t know what to do with. The drill is electric earth drill, i.e. This drill is powered by mains. In addition, it has a built-in battery, which, however, does not last long, but still.
