It will not be news to anyone that you spend a huge amount of time in the kitchen. Not only is this room intended for cooking, but plus everything, inviting guests home, the owners of the house also, in most cases, set the table in the kitchen. Naturally, no one will like the cold floor in the kitchen. It is also worth saying that high humidity V this room quite often leads to the appearance of fungus and mold on the floor covering. You can correct the current situation by means of a warm floor. In order to save cash on this type of work, you can carry out the process of laying a warm floor yourself. Let's talk about how to install heated floors with your own hands.

IN this moment in progress repair work most owners prefer warm floors. After all, through them you can create a comfortable and cozy atmosphere on own kitchen. Not so long ago, heating was laid directly into the screed. Now thanks to modern technologies heated floors are mounted directly under the tiles, parquet board or laminate.

Installation of a warm floor

Everyone knows that if you walk with cold feet for a long time, you can later get sick with a cold. Moreover, during the period when the heating is turned off, being in a house or apartment is more than uncomfortable due to cold and dampness. So, all these problems can be solved by simply installing underfloor heating.

Before proceeding with the purchase of the necessary material, you need to think about what kind of purpose the floors will carry, as well as make the required calculations.

First, draw your kitchen on paper and visually arrange all the items on it. Separately, it must be said that furniture that has legs does not need to be taken into account.

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In order to determine the length of the heating section, it is necessary to calculate the product of the area under heating and the specific power of the section. Here it is important to take into account such points: if you use the floor exclusively as a source of additional heat, then the power of the section should not exceed 120 W / sq.m, if the heating is the main source of heating in the room, then at least 150 W / sq.m .

As for the preparation for installation, then you will need to remove all the furniture in the room and dismantle the old floor. Be sure to check the screed for evenness using a special ruler. If the flatness of the screed is broken, then it must be restored using a special self-leveling mixture.

For the thermostat, you need to make a niche. For these works you will need a puncher. Starting from a niche, pierce the channel in which it will be located power cable, temperature sensor cables and heating sections. So that later you have the opportunity to replace the sensors, lay parallel to the plastic pipe corrugated pipe into which the sensor is placed.

The end of the pipe, which has a plug, must be released onto the draft floor in such a way that a distance of 60 mm remains from the wall. To seal the strobe, use special plaster for construction works. In the same way, the mounting box of the thermostat is attached to the building gypsum.

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How to install underfloor heating in the kitchen?

Separately, it must be said that before laying the heat-insulating material, the surface must be cleaned and leveled as best as possible. Only after that, strips of thermal insulation are laid, the seams of which are fastened with adhesive tape. Mounting tape is attached over the thermal insulation. For these purposes, you will need dowels. The mounting tape must be fastened at intervals of 0.5 m. It is necessary in order to subsequently be able to fix the loops of the section for heating.

The cable must not be crossed. Loops, in turn, should be smooth and not have kinks. Do not forget that the distance from the wall must be at least 50 mm. There are special tabs on the mounting tape, to which you need to attach the ends of the cable. After you lay the heating section, it must be filled with a screed, which includes cement and sand. Its thickness should be no more than 5 cm.

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Basically, your floor is ready to be laid. decorative coating. The first time you need to turn on the heating no earlier than a month after pouring the screed.

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Skip places in the kitchen where furniture or other items are installed. In this way, you will be able to significantly save your money on electricity bills in the future.
Apply the mortar to the floor only after you are sure that the floor works. Only if everything works as it should, and there is no damage, you can proceed to applying the screed.
Take your time! Allow the mixture to dry thoroughly and only then begin laying the tiles. Drying can take approximately 14 days. In no case do not turn on the floor before the mixture dries. Otherwise, you cannot avoid the cable burnout.
Flexible mixtures are very suitable for grouting and gluing. It is they who are ideal option for underfloor heating.

After you lay the tiles, the floors should be allowed to dry for about a month.

Only after the specified time has elapsed can the floor be turned on.

Ceramic tile is an excellent material for flooring, which, according to some of its characteristics, leaves far behind all the "competitors". So, in matters of hygiene, strength at correct styling, durability of operation, resistance to biological processes, humidity, thermal extremes, it, perhaps, has no equal. If we add to this also a high decorative effect, the possibility of implementing interesting design compositions, then the popularity of tiles among homeowners is quite understandable.

However, the main negative quality of the tile - the coldness of the material, significantly limits its scope. Even in the rooms where he performs the best option- bathroom, kitchen, bathroom, etc., it is not very pleasant to become an unshod foot on the floor in the cold season. There is only one way out - to organize floor heating under the tiles.

There are two principal options - a warm water floor or heating using electrical energy. This publication is devoted to how to organize an electric underfloor heating for further lining it with ceramic tiles.

So, both water and electric underfloor heating can be laid under the tile. Water circuits are described in separate articles, but for now - about some of the advantages of electric heating:

The temperature level in electric underfloor heating can be quickly and accurate enough adjustment - water floors in this respect are much more inert, and some simply directly depend on the temperature of the coolant from centralized system heating.
Installation of an electric underfloor heating is simpler, often not requiring a new screed to be poured - it is mandatory in water floors. In addition, in order for the water circuit to justify its purpose, the screed must be thick enough - and this is a significant expense, and laboriousness, and, most importantly, large additional loads on the floors, which is not always acceptable. And the height of the ceilings in standard high-rise buildings does not always allow a high level of coverage. With electric heating, such massive screeds are not required.
For the above reasons, it is simply impossible to organize a warm water floor in a multi-storey building. By the way, the heat supply organization may not give permission for this due to too significant heat losses.
Another plus electric floors: there is no risk of a major accident with the risk of flooding your own or even a neighbor's apartment.

The disadvantages of such floor heating systems include only a fairly high cost of electricity. However, if the system is installed and adjusted correctly, and the warm floor acts only as an addition to common system heating, the operating costs will not be particularly noticeable.

But the comfort in the room will obviously increase - a layer ceramic tiles, being a good "thermal accumulator", is not only pleasant in itself, but also creates ascending currents of warm air, evenly distributing heat throughout the room.

What is the best electric underfloor heating system?

First of all, if it is decided to arrange electric floor heating under the tiles, it is tedious to decide on its circuit diagram. There are four main options.

Underfloor heating with heating cable

Such a system has two extremes: it is the most inexpensive in terms of cost necessary elements and accessories, but at the same time - this is the most time-consuming method of all other options for electric heating.

The main "tool" is the heating cable itself, which can also vary significantly:

The simplest - single-core, of the usual resistive principle of operation - heating the conductor during passage electric current, like a conventional spiral, for example, in an iron.

The big disadvantage is the need to “loop” the cable in order to complete the circuit, which will require a special laying scheme. Heating is carried out simultaneously and evenly along the entire length - this is also not always good in terms of efficiency.

A two-core resistive cable has two conductors, one of which is a "spiral", and the second only closes the circuit through a special termination. Installation, of course, is much more convenient, but the rest shortcomings remain same.

Self-regulating two-core heating cables - the most modern and good option. The two conductors here are separated by a semiconductor matrix, which heats up when current is passed. What is the characteristic feature: the conductivity of the matrix directly depends on its temperature - the higher it is, the less current passes. And, this is typical for anyone, even the most small plot cable. A unique self-regulation effect appears - maximum heating takes place only in cold places, and when a certain temperature is reached, the matrix simply “locks”.

The economic effect of such a floor is obvious. AND more one important advantage - such a cable is easily cut into desired length– there are special areas for cutting with certain step apart.

Mesh heating mats

A very convenient and extremely popular type of electric floor heating. By and large - the same two-core heating cable, but only already looped fixed on a fiberglass mesh.

Such a system cannot be called cheap when buying, but its installation is simple and straightforward. In the case under consideration with ceramic tiles, no screed over the mats is simply needed - tiles can be laid directly on them.

Infrared Rod Heaters «Unimat »

The laying of such heaters also does not require any filling from above - it is very convenient for mounting ceramic tiles. In this system, two conductors are connected along their entire length by parallel heating rods that emit infrared radiation.

Rod infrared heaters"Unimat"

All rods are independent of each other and work self-adjusting, reducing energy consumption. The system is convenient, but its cost is even higher than that of mesh mats.

Infrared film heaters

One of the most economical modern systems underfloor heating, but for ceramic tiles - not quite suitable. The reason is simple - the film will simply block the possibility of normal adhesion of tile adhesive with concrete base. Make too thick a screed over pl night elements is simply meaningless from the point of view of the principle of their work. So such a heating system is more likely for "floating" floors - laminate, linoleum parquet, etc.

The film is perforated for supposedly good adhesion to the concrete base. However, according to experts, practice shows that tiles on such a floor will begin to “play” very soon. There is, however, a way of laying such a floor on “liquid nails”, but this is both very expensive and also causes concern in the overall strength of the tiled floor.

Is everything ready to go?

The system of a warm electric floor should give off heat to the room, and not waste it on heating concrete floor. Therefore, you will need high-quality thermal insulation, under a rough screed, or roll flooring thermal reflective material (for example, foil foam) before laying the cable and pouring the closing screed.
Be sure to check the completeness of the system - the presence of a temperature sensor and a control panel - a thermostat with the functions of turning on the system and setting the desired temperature. This automatic device tracks readings from a built-in temperature sensor floor and stops automatically supplying electricity when heated to a user-set level.

If a system with a cable is chosen, then it will be necessary to purchase either mounting metal tapes or a reinforcing mesh. Cable loops, after laying them, will be attached to it.
To compensate for thermal expansion, the perimeter of the room will need to be glued with a special damper tape.
To lay the cable to the thermostat, you will have to punch a strobe, and for the device itself, drill a nest in the wall. This will require a perforator.
To check the safety of the assembled system, you need a special measuring device - a megohmmeter.
And, of course, the required quantity of building materials and a set of tools for pouring the screed or for mounting the inlet directly on the heaters - depending on the selected system.

How to properly place heating elements

In order for the floor to fully meet the expectations, it is necessary to carefully, and on the basis of these data, draw up a laying scheme, taking into account some features.

1. First of all, it is necessary to determine the number of heating elements for underfloor heating. At the same time, they proceed from the intended purpose of the system being created, the area and specific features of the room:

In the case when the "warm floor" is planned only as an addition to the general heating system, about 100 - 130 W / m² will be required. If it becomes the main source of heat, the figure rises to 150 W / m², and for the first floors or for private houses with floors on the ground - even up to 180 W / m².
Heating elements should cover at least 70 ÷ 75% of the area of the room. Cables should not be laid in places where stationary furniture will be placed - no closer than 50 mm from it. The same condition applies to stationary heating devices, only here the minimum distance grows to 100 mm. Ignoring these rules leads to overheating of the cable turns in closed areas and to a quick exit of their order.
Length required cable calculated as follows:

The heating area is calculated ( S)- according to recommendations given higher;

The required specific power is determined - ( PS) per unit area.

The specific power is taken into account ( pp) the cable itself per 1 meter long (its passport characteristic);

The required cable length will be: L = S × Ps : pp

2. Now you can proceed to drawing up a laying scheme. What is taken into account:

The installation site of the thermostat is immediately outlined - this is where the “cold” ends of the cable should come up. This is where the temperature sensor wire will go;

The temperature sensor itself should be located in the center of the cable loop, at a distance of about 500 mm from its beginning.

The distance between adjacent cables in the loop is determined ( H), based on the already available, previously obtained data: H = S × 100 : L.

The installation scheme should first be worked out on paper, and only then, after a thorough check, transferred to the floor surface for laying in place.

How to install underfloor heating with cable

First of all, carefully prepare the floor surface - carry out if necessary minor repairs, clean it from debris and dust.
A nest is arranged on the wall for installing a thermostat (its distance from the floor can, in principle, be any, but not less than 300 mm). A strobe is made to it with dimensions of at least 20 × 20 mm. It is necessary to bring the power supply cable to the installation site of the regulator - it is better to coordinate this issue with a specialist electrician.
Spreads over the entire surface of the floor thermal reflective substrate. The sheets are laid end-to-end with the obligatory gluing of the seams with special adhesive tape.

The next step is to install a reinforcing fiberglass mesh or attach mounting tapes to the floor to fix the cable.
In accordance with a pre-compiled scheme, the cable is laid out.

If the cable is single core , then through couplings“cold” ends are switched, which will go to the thermostat.

If the cable is single-core, both ends are connected to the place of the thermostat

Using two-core cable, its far end must be closed with a special plug-plug.

The temperature sensor with its wire is inserted into a corrugated tube Ø 16 mm, a length that allows you to install it in the right place and lay it to the place of the thermostat. Such a tube should ensure free movement of the temperature sensor inside - so that it can be changed without problems in case of failure. The cut of the tube is closed with a plastic plug.

After installation is complete, check electrical circuit cable - its conductivity and total resistance (should correspond to passport data, with a deviation within ± 10%), and insulation resistance - measured with a megger. Safety will be observed if this indicator is not less than 20 MΩ.
All wires are switched at the corresponding terminals of the thermostat. Only after that it will be possible to supply power and check the operability of the system by short-term start-up. If everything is working properly, the power is completely turned off to proceed to the pouring of the face screed. The strobe on the wall is sealed with mortar, the regulator is finally fixed in its regular place.
A prerequisite before starting pouring is gluing a damper tape around the entire perimeter of the room.
The thickness of the screed must not be less than 30 mm. Its filling can be carried out in the usual manner, concrete mortar with the installation of beacons, or using self leveling formulations. There are also special building mixtures that are directly intended for these purposes - they are enriched with plasticizers that prevent the formation of voids and ensure the solidity of the coating.

After pouring the screed and gaining the necessary strength for it, it will be possible to proceed to laying ceramic tiles - this process in this case will not differ in any way from conventional cladding methods.

It is possible to operate the underfloor heating system with laid tiles in the calculated mode only after 3 ÷ 4 weeks from the date of pouring the screed.

Video: installation of a warm floor with a heating cable

Some features of floor installation with insulation mats

What characteristics application of the electric floor heating scheme for tiles using ready-made mats:

The base surface must already have internal thermal insulation, and thermal reflective the substrate is not spread before laying the mats. produced by silicone thermo gun Or just use strong tape.

After laying all the mats, switching and checking electrical parameters, proceed to the installation of ceramic tiles directly on the heaters themselves. The layer of tile adhesive must be 8 ÷ 10 mm. It is recommended to use a special adhesive for underfloor heating, resistant to heat and frequent thermal shocks.

It is possible to operate a warm floor after laying the tiles in 15 - 20 days (this period should be indicated in the instructions for use of a particular tile adhesive).

Video: installation of heating mats under ceramic tiles

There are small nuances when laying core mats. For the correct operation of automation, they will definitely need thermal reflective substrate, but the thickness of the tile adhesive when laying the coating must be at least 20 mm. Sometimes in this case it is more profitable to apply a self-leveling coating, and only then lay the tile.

Approximate scheme of installation of a warm floor under a tile with heaters "UNIMAT"

So, organizing electric floor heating for tiles is a quite doable task, although quite laborious. It will require special care and accuracy, especially when switching electrical connections. However, if you follow exactly all technological stages everything should work out.

During construction and renovation, more and more more people prefer to install underfloor heating in the house. Usually, underfloor heating is installed in the kitchen and bathroom, and sometimes in other rooms. The heat emanating from the floor gives a pleasant feeling and even allows you to warm up the entire space. What type of floor heating is the most economical and convenient? How to perform such an installation, what is the price and how much does underfloor heating cost?

Among underfloor heating installations, we can distinguish two of the most common types: electric and water heating floors. Therefore, if you decide to install underfloor heating in your house, it is important to know the features of each system, the advantages, disadvantages and, of course, how much the installation and materials cost.

Underfloor heating is electric - it is very easy to install, it is aesthetically pleasing because it does not require central heating or boiler. Electric heating can be made up of cables, a heating mat, or a polyester film that has aluminum wire in it. When electricity flows through the hoses, they heat up and release heat that spreads throughout the room. The most commonly used mats or cables. Due to the simple installation and the lack of a boiler, electric floor heating is convenient to use. Unfortunately, due to high electricity prices, electric heating underfloor heating is not the most economical – operating costs can be up to 2 times higher than with standard underfloor heating.

Underfloor heating with water is the most popular type of underfloor heating, consisting of heating pipes (copper or plastic) located directly under the floor. As the name suggests, heat is distributed throughout the room using hot water (around 40-50°C) flowing in pipes. Installing hot water heating is quite expensive because it requires the purchase of a heating boiler and the installation of controllers and heat pumps, as well as the implementation of the entire central heating system. However, when used, this type of floor heating in a house is much cheaper than electric heating, so it can be considered a good investment.

In addition to the two main types of underfloor heating, a less common one is also worth mentioning. air heating. This is an innovative Swedish method that involves the flow of heated air through channels located directly in the floor or on the foundation of the house.

Underfloor heating in the house: advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating

Benefits of underfloor heating

Considering the installation of underfloor heating, it is worth analyzing its best and worst sides. The undoubted advantage of this solution is aesthetics: the heating elements are not visible and do not take up space in the room or bathroom. In addition, due to the spiral arrangement electrical wires or pipes, heat is distributed more evenly throughout the room. Floor heating also more beneficial for our body because more heat on the ground, and the lower one at head level has a positive effect on health and well-being. Therefore, in rooms with underfloor heating, the temperature may be slightly lower than in traditional radiators - it will not be felt by us.

Disadvantages of underfloor heating

Despite the many advantages, underfloor heating in the house also has its drawbacks. First of all, if the installation fails or fails, the repair is quite troublesome because it involves the need to break the floor. This type of heating also imposes certain restrictions on the furnishing of the room: if we install too much furniture on the heated floor and cover it with carpet, the heating efficiency will be much lower.

Underfloor heating is also characterized by the so-called thermal inertia, which means that it does not “rise” quickly and cool down slowly, so it is not easy to adjust the degree of heating of a room depending on changing needs. The negative aspects of underfloor heating also include the costs associated with installing it: engineering, purchasing all heating elements and controllers, and professional installation makes underfloor heating about 40% more expensive than conventional heaters. The advantage, however, lies in the inexpensive operation - in the case of water heating.

Few people like to walk barefoot on the floor when outside the window subzero temperature Therefore, floor insulation has been one of the most popular services for several years now.

At one time, radiators were used for these purposes, but they have a number of drawbacks: the air rises to the ceiling, and remains cool at floor level. And the space near the wall, where there are no radiators, heats up badly. A warm floor guarantees uniform heating of the entire room and this contributes to a comfortable stay. Do-it-yourself heating is easy to do.

Underfloor heating guarantees uniform heating of the entire room and contributes to comfortable living.

Do-it-yourself heated floors can be done in two ways - electric heating and water heating. Heating by an electrical system has the advantage that it can be regulated. For this, a thermostat is used with which you can make any temperature of the warm floor, and all this is further maintained by means of special automation. If the heating is done in this way, then this gives a full guarantee of safety and there will be no malfunctions - at the slightest malfunction, the system automatically turns off. The only downside is that it consumes a lot of electricity. But floors with electric heating spread without difficulty.

Before installation, it is necessary to determine the place where the thermostat will be installed. For these purposes, a hole is hollowed out in the wall and a mounting box is installed in it, this is done at a height of up to 1 m. Then, an electrical power and grounding network is connected to the installation site of the box.

Installation is carried out as follows: the floors are dismantled, the surface is leveled and a concrete screed is made. A layer (thermal insulation material) is placed on top of the concrete, this prevents the heat from escaping down. All these works are done without any difficulty with your own hands, for this you need to have the most elementary skills. Now you need to apply a heating cable, shield it by placing it in a steel film. This is done in order to further protect the cable from damage, and also to reduce electromagnetic radiation in the heating system.

The cable must be heated to 55 degrees, thus guaranteeing Fire safety. It is noteworthy that when using such a system, you can use any floor coverings that you can lay with your own hands. However, you should not lay too dense carpet on the floor, and you should also refrain from using rugs on a thick rubber base. These coatings are less efficient for heating.

This is available both for residents of private houses and for residents of urban high-rise buildings. The system is simple - there is no pipe installation procedure, they do not need to be connected to the heat supply, you just need to lay the electrical cable and connect it to electrical network. Heating such a system does not require any permits.

In order to make such a system easier to control, it is worth giving preference to programmable thermostats. This will allow the system electric heating only when there are people in the house, so electricity is not wasted. This completes the installation of electric underfloor heating and there is no doubt that even in the coldest weather the house will always be warm and comfortable. This is especially important when there are children in the house. To install such a floor, you need the following tools:

perforator;
hammer;
mounting tape;
corrugated hose.

Water analogue

The heating element for water heating is a pipe made of polymeric materials through which hot water. Heated floors made in this way are highly efficient and reliable. In order to insulate floors in this way, pipes of great length will be needed, which will ensure a more even distribution of heat over the entire surface, and the temperature in the heater may be at a low level. It should be noted that the water temperature should not exceed 55 degrees.

In the water heating system, metal-plastic pipes are most often used, the diameter of which is 14-25 mm, and the thickness is up to 2.7 mm. The advantage of such pipes is that they are not subject to rust and bend easily, which is an important quality when installing with your own hands. The pipes should be laid at a distance of 10-35 cm from each other, and the pipe should be at a distance of 7 cm from the wall.

Such a water heating scheme is installed as follows: the base is covered heat-insulating material(if the floor borders on the basement or the ground, then it is necessary to lay a double waterproofing, which will prevent moisture from entering the heating system). Now you need to put the "system plates", and pipes are laid between them. After installation and laying of pipes, the entire network is poured with concrete. Underfloor heating is very durable. If we talk about prices, the cost of a water-heated installation is higher than electrical system. However, water-heated floors do not require a large number electrical energy. In order for such a system to function smoothly, it is necessary to ensure the circulation of water through the pipes, for which a water pump is used. To install such floors, you will need permission from the housing and communal services.

This heating system is best used in country houses, because in a city apartment there may be problems associated with installation and connection to the central heating network. To carry out the installation of underfloor heating in these conditions, you will need the following tools:

tube mounts;
dowel-nails and screws;
beacon profile;
perforator;
hammer;
putty knife;
metal scissors;
metal ruler.

Installation of a warm floor is carried out on any basis - straight and dry. Before installing underfloor heating, it is necessary to remove all furniture from the room, and then tear off the old floor coverings. Sometimes it is necessary to carry out leveling work, this is done using a concrete screed. It is necessary to mark those places where there is furniture that is difficult to move, and prepare a place where the thermostat will be installed, the battery output and the power supply.

When a layer of thermal insulation is being laid (foam plastic, cork panels or polystyrene foam can be used as this), then after laying it must be fixed with adhesive tape. The concrete screed, which is placed on top, should not exceed 1 cm in thickness. This is done so that the wiring does not come into contact with the thermal insulation, as a result of which overheating may occur and the cable will break. If under the floor is warm room, then heated floors are made without thermal insulation. Heating should be selected according to the characteristics of the room.

Choosing the type and installation of underfloor heating

Full heating of the room gives a much greater effect than local heating with a heater or battery. Full underfloor heating means underfloor heating. This method of space heating was used in Ancient Rome. At that time, the prototype of the modern underfloor heating looked like a stove with a pipe running under the floor and releasing gas. Today underfloor heating works much safer as it uses either water or electricity for heating.

There are three types of underfloor heating:

electrical,
water,
infrared.

Electric underfloor heating

Since electricity is an environmentally friendly energy carrier, this method is used in various buildings and premises. Floor heating is carried out using a one- or two-wire resistive cable. In the case of a single-wire resistive cable, a single high-resistance conductor is used. In a two-level cable, a copper conductor is laid along with a resistive one.

Heated water floors

Heated water floors are a structure of pipes with hot water supplied from gas or electric boiler. This is the most economical type of underfloor heating. The downside is that heated water floors are not allowed to be installed in apartments. multi-storey buildings except for the first floors.

Heated water floors are optimal for cottages and private houses.

Infrared heated floors

This type of floors appeared on the construction market relatively recently. For the operation of such floors, a film with infrared radiation is used. Anatomically, it looks like strips made of carbon conductors embedded in a film of polymers. The thickness of such a film is only 0.4 mm. Its main advantages include ease of installation and work without a screed. Infrared floors are not characterized by harmful radiation. They are more economical in comparison with the two previous types of floors. When choosing a flooring over a film, you need to consider that some of them may not withstand heat. These types of coatings include parquet floors and lacquered flooring.

How to install underfloor heating?

Electric floor coverings can be used:

as the main method of heating;
as an extra.

So, if the electric floors will be used as the main source of heating, then it should be no less than 5 cm. In this case, the area of the installed floors should be about 70% of the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room. As an additional source of heating, electric floors are used to maintain a common microclimate in conjunction with other heating devices. To this end, they are used for bathrooms and pools, as well as for apartments on the ground floors.

Before starting the installation of underfloor heating, you need to make sure that the wiring is ready to connect additional power. You should also know which admissible current can pass through fuses.

Installation of concrete water floors takes place in several stages:

The entire room must be divided into equal sections, their area should not exceed 40 square meters.
The rough surface of the floor must be covered with insulation materials.
Next, put reinforcing mesh and make the installation of pipe contours.
WITH heating system pressure work needs to be done.
from concrete.
After all the above steps, you can proceed to the finishing work.

The marking of the room is necessary in order to avoid cracks in concrete screed with temperature changes. The ratio of plots should be 1:2.

There are many ways to lay pipes, for example:

spiral,
double snake,
snake.

However, it should be borne in mind that when installing pipes in internal walls you need to make the step as small as possible. At one end, the pipe must always be attached to the supply manifold, and at the other - according to the design scheme.