Experienced flower growers know that growth and development indoor plants depends on the correct soil. Each plant needs its own soil mixture, the composition most suitable for it. For example, lemon, cypress and most types of palm trees require slightly acidic to alkaline soils. Ferns, camellias, and rhododendrons are ideally suited to soils with high level acidity. Neutral soils are good for growing primrose, Kalanchoe, and pelargonium, while rocky and sandy soils are suitable for cacti. A special soil mixture is required for noble orchids. It contains charcoal, moss, tree bark and fern roots.
Each type of soil has its own base. For example, neutral soils include chernozems, acidic soils include peat soils, and alkaline soils include clay-turf soils. The composition and density of the soil determines the passage of water and air to the roots of plants, and hence their development and life in general. With timely provision and saturation of the soil necessary fertilizers it also provides plants with high-quality nutrition.
The composition of soil mixtures may include natural components (for example, peat, sand, ash, humus, sawdust, pine needles, leaves, moss, etc.) and artificial (for example, expanded clay, perlite, hydrogel). For each type of plant it is necessary to select its own optimal soil composition.
Retail chains offer a large number of different different types soil mixtures that differ in acidity level, the presence of fertilizers and various disintegrants.
Peat soils
Peat soils can be of two types: some consist of high-moor peat, while others consist of low-lying peat.
The moss that grows in the upper reaches of bogs turns into high-moor peat during the process of decomposition. This type of peat soil has its positive and negative properties. The positives are good breathability and lightness, as well as the ability to absorb moisture and retain it. The latter property is also a disadvantage, since prolonged retention of moisture in the soil can lead to rotting of the root part of the plant. And if such soil is dried out, it will be quite difficult to wet and moisten it again. Another disadvantage is the low fertile qualities and minimal amount minerals in the soil.
Peat, which is extracted from swampy lowlands of lakes, rivers and swamps themselves, is heavier, but the content of mineral elements in it is very high. This type of soil is used only as an additive to soil mixtures, since in its pure form it is always too wet and dense. In such soil, plant roots do not develop, but rot due to excess moisture and lack of air.
Vermicompost
Vermicompost is a product obtained by processing manure with the help of earthworms. Such soil is considered valuable for plants because it contains a large number of effective microorganisms and beneficial natural substances. When preparing a soil mixture at home, a small part of vermicompost can replace humus and enrich its composition.
Retail chains offer a wide range of soil mixtures. You can choose an individual substrate for almost every plant, but you can also compose it yourself. The main thing is to have all the necessary components at hand.
Leaf ground
When growing indoor plants, a mixture of leaf and turf soil is used as the main soil. It contains rotted leaves of many types of trees (for example, apple and walnut, linden and maple, pear and elm).
Sod land
This type of soil is used most often, as it has good water and air permeability, and also contains a huge amount of nutrients. You can find such soil in meadows, forests, or unused animal pastures.
Humus
This soil consists of a small amount of topsoil and rotted manure. This soil is light and loose, and also contains a large amount of nutrients. Many crops are able to develop and grow qualitatively on humus soil.
Heather soil
Such soil is considered rare, since it can only be obtained in places where they grow coniferous trees and evergreen heather shrubs. Dark gray heather soil mixed with sand white has a loose structure, good air and water permeability. In composition, it can be compared to a mixture of sand (one part), leaf (two parts) and peat (four parts) soil. Heather soil is most favorable for growing rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias.
Coniferous soil
This soil is often included in potting mixes and is suitable for many plants (eg heather and orchids). Such soil is mined in coniferous forests. The needles of spruce, pine and fir, when decomposed, turn into loose and acidic soil. When collecting coniferous land, it is necessary to remove upper layer- it is still unsuitable for making soil mixtures and growing plants. You only need to use the second bottom layer.
Fern roots
Crushed and dried fern roots are a valuable nutritional component when preparing soil mixtures.
Moss
Some old parts of the sphagnum bog plant die, fall off and eventually form high-moor peat. Sphagnum harvesting is carried out in September - October. First, it is cleared of large branches and other unnecessary components. Then they are crushed, thoroughly dried and steamed. Such preparation is necessary for soil disinfection. Harmful insects die, which means there will be no danger to the growth and development of plants in the future. After the preventive measures have been taken, the moss is ready for use.
Moss is part of many soil mixtures and makes them loose and able to retain the necessary moisture for some time.
river sand
Flower shops offer to purchase various types of sand (coarse, medium and fine), but you can also collect it on the river bank. Sand must be prepared before use. First, it is advisable to sift it, get rid of various debris and large stones and thoroughly clean it from dirt using clean water.
Almost all soil mixtures contain sand, as it makes the soil breathable, prevents it from compacting and caking, and allows water to pass through perfectly, although it does not contain any nutrients.
Soil mixtures with this sand additive are necessary for growing almost all types of palm trees and cacti.
Charcoal or ash
Coal and ash are used to disinfect plant roots, as well as to heal cuts on branches and stems. This component prevents the formation of rot, as it is a natural antiseptic. The most commonly used is charcoal left over from burning aspen or birch branches.
Almost every soil mixture contains at least 5% crushed charcoal. Coal increases soil permeability and looseness. Mixtures with charcoal additives are necessary for growing cacti, orchids and many other indoor plants.
When harvesting components for the soil mixture, you have to collect the earth in different places: in the forest, in the meadow, in the field and on the river bank. Naturally, such soil contains a large number of different insects and their larvae, fungal spores that can cause fungal diseases. To avoid problems in the future when growing plants, it is necessary to prepare such soil before use. It is recommended to carry out mandatory heat treatment in the form of steaming.
Select a large container, pour a small layer of well-moistened sand (about 3-4 centimeters) onto the bottom, and on top all the components of the future soil mixture. Place the container on low heat to warm and steam. When heated, wet sand will release steam, which will gradually warm up the rest of the mixture. It will take approximately one hour to warm up a ten-liter container.
There is one significant drawback in this treatment - it is the complete death of beneficial microorganisms that are vital for the growth and development of plants. Not a single organic fertilizer can be absorbed by plants without them. Fixing this problem will take some time and patience. When after landing indoor flower At least 30 days will pass, you can begin populating the soil with new useful “tenants”.
Saturation of the soil with important microorganisms must be carried out gradually and try to maintain their quantity. Live microorganisms are contained in many special preparations and organic fertilizers. Specialized stores for gardeners and flower growers offer the use of “Ecostyle”, “Baikal”, “Vostok EM-1” and “Vozrozhdenie” products for these purposes.
As a soil disinfection procedure, you can try freezing or treating chemicals. Chemicals will destroy all harmful bacteria and fungal spores and get rid of infectious diseases. And after freezing the soil, its structure even improves.
- For cacti - leaf soil, peat (high peat) and 50% sand. Nutrients should be minimal, and water permeability should be high.
- For orchids - tree bark, peat, sphagnum moss, charcoal. For various types and varieties of orchids there is a slight difference in the composition of the soil mixture. For example, peat is not included in the soil mixture for growing those varieties of orchids that grow on trees.
- For palm trees - turf and leaf soil, peat (high peat) and river sand. The soil should have good air permeability.
- For ferns - an organic soil mixture with the obligatory addition of humus or vermicompost.
- For gardenias, acidic soil mixtures are suitable, which contain equal amounts of leaf and coniferous soil, as well as river sand and high-moor peat.
- For azaleas, the main soil should be peat soil (top soil) with a small amount of needles. A prerequisite is lightness, air and water permeability.
Soil acidity
The degree of soil acidity plays a role important role in plant development. The growth, abundance of flowering of a crop, its adaptability to life and its ability to resist pests and diseases depend on its level.
Some representatives of the flora need poor and acidic soil, while others require fertile and saturated with a large number of effective microorganisms, with moderate or neutral acidity. For example, alkaline soil is necessary for plants growing on rocky mountain slopes, but slightly acidic soil is suitable for most plants.
Soil pH can be determined in two ways:
- Using special litmus paper
- Using a soil meter
When purchasing ready-made substrates, acidity is determined by the digital indicators on the packaging:
- pH more than 8 – highly alkaline
- pH from 7 to 8 – alkaline
- pH from 6 to 7 – neutral
- pH from 5 to 6 – slightly acidic
- pH from 4 to 5 – acidic
- pH from 3 to 4 – strongly acidic
A soil acidity meter will show more accurate data about the selected substrate, and litmus paper will show the result using a color indicator. A special color scale is available. It is necessary to place litmus paper on the surface of well-moistened soil and press firmly for a few seconds, and then compare the result with the proposed scale. If there is slightly alkaline soil, the paper will turn Blue colour, when neutral - in light green or blue, when slightly acidic - yellow, when acidic - pink, when strongly acidic - red.
How to prepare the right substrate for plants
Correct selection soil for indoor plants is one of the most important tasks for a gardener. To grow different types of plants, different soil mixtures are needed.
Correct selection of soil for indoor plants is one of the most important tasks for a gardener. To grow different types of plants, different soil mixtures are needed.
The main purpose of soil is to support the plant and conduct water and nutrients to the roots, and provide access to air. Providing the plant with nutrition is not the primary function of soils, so it is necessary to timely and correctly add nutrients to the substrate. Soils can be composed not only of natural materials, taken from nature, but also from artificial ones, for example, hydrogel, perlite or expanded clay.
When selecting soil for each specific plant, it is necessary to find out which soil is preferable in terms of acidity and composition.
Despite the wide variety of soils on store shelves, almost all of them are divided into several groups, where substances that regulate acidity, leavening agents (sand, expanded clay chips, perlite) and fertilizers are added to the base.
SOILS BASED ON HIGH PEAT
The majority of soils are like this. High-moor peat is the result of the decomposition of sphagnum moss, which grows in high-moor bogs. such peat is poor in minerals and quickly loses fertility. Its advantages include lightness, hygroscopicity, breathability, and its disadvantages include a very high ability to retain water; at a certain soil moisture, the roots simply stop absorbing it and, on the contrary, after complete drying it is difficult to get wet.
SOILS BASED ON LOW PEAT
Lowland peat is extracted from lowland bogs, wetlands of rivers and lakes. It is heavy, richer in minerals, but they are released very slowly. It is better not to use it in its pure form, because it remains wet for a long time, has a fine structure and quickly cakes, making it difficult for air to reach the roots and causing them to rot. It can only be used as a component in the preparation of soil mixtures.
SOILS BASED ON BIOHUMUS
Vermicompost is obtained by processing manure with certain lines of earthworms; it contains not only a high percentage of organic substances, but also beneficial living microorganisms. It is used in large quantities to enrich the earthen mixture, it can serve as a replacement for leaf or grass humus.
If you decide to prepare the earthen mixture yourself, then you need to prepare it several days before use. Most often it is mixed with sand, peat or simply enriched with fertilizers.
MIXTURES CAN BE LIGHT, MEDIUM AND HEAVY
The ratios of components are given in average (allowed various options composition, comparable in characteristics to the reference version given here) and approximate form: volumes are determined “by eye” and do not require weighing to the nearest gram.
Light earth mixtures: consist of peat, deciduous soil or (in some cases these types of soil act as analogues of each other) heather, humus, and also sand. The ratio of components is 3:1:1:1.Medium earth mixtures: turf soil - 2 hours; humus - 2 hours; peat - 1 hour; sand - 1 tsp.Heavy earth mixtures: clay-turf soil - 3 hours; humus soil - 1 hour; sand - 1 hour.Often a less “specialized” soil mixture is prepared from garden soil, sand and peat in a 1:1:1 ratio.
Most indoor plants prefer a light soil mixture. Some components can be prepared independently, but the process is complex and often very lengthy (like the preparation of humus and deciduous soil, which usually takes two years), heather soil cannot be obtained everywhere, and peat bogs often take a long time to find. However, all or almost all of these components can be purchased individually in stores or markets. The choice will always be yours - make the soil for indoor plants yourself or buy a ready-made suitable substrate.
MAKING THE SOIL ON YOUR OWN
You may need the following components:
Turf soil - it has a fine lumpy structure, highly permeable to water and air, and contains a significant supply of nutrients. It can be collected from old pastures or meadows with slightly acidic soil reactions, or from fresh molehills in the forest. Turf land is used in greater quantities than other lands.
Leaf soil - it is formed from rotted leaves of linden, hazel, maple, elm, poplar, apple, and pear trees. Mixed with turf leaf soil is suitable for growing most potted crops.
Peat land - it is formed from the decaying remains of plants. Harvest it from raw peat moss swamps. It is easy to provide balanced nutrition with peat mixtures or pure peat using complex mineral fertilizers. Plants that require acidic soil - hydrangeas, azaleas, and others - are grown on pure peat. For better water permeability, it is recommended to add baking powder - small expanded clay, pieces of foam plastic. Peat soil absorbs a very large amount of moisture, and therefore improves the properties of other soil.
Humus soil - it is formed by rotting manure and the top layer of soil mixed with it. Manure humus is loose, light, rich in nutrients, which contributes to good growth many cultures.
Heather soil - it is mined in coniferous forests that abound in heather. The heather ground is dark grey colour and mixed with white sand. It has looseness and good permeability of water and air. It is used to prepare earthen mixtures for camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas and a number of other plants. But heather soil cannot always be found, so it can be replaced with a mixture of leaf and peat soil and sand in a ratio of 2:4:1.
Coniferous land - it is harvested from a pine or fir forest. In this case, the top layer of undecomposed pine needles is discarded, and the bottom layer is removed. Before use, coniferous soil is kept moist at all times. This is loose, poor, sour earth with pH 4-5. Serves integral part for plants that prefer an acidic soil reaction and require increased looseness of the substrate, for example, for precious orchids, azaleas and heather plants.
Fern roots - they are harvested from the species of aspidium, osmunda, polypodium, and kochededzhnik. They are cut from the rhizomes and stored in a dry place. Osmunda roots are considered the best. In chopped or crushed form, fern roots are used as a component in mixtures for epiphytic and semi-epiphytic plants.
Sand - it is advisable to take it in unpolluted places along the banks of rivers, but you can also buy it in flower shops. It serves as a good additional additive to ready-made soils for cacti and succulents, palm trees and other plants, prevents them from caking, and makes the soil waterproof.
Sphagnum moss - it grows in swamps. Older parts of it gradually die off, forming high-moor peat. Sphagnum is harvested in raised and transitional swamps in early autumn.
Charcoal - it contributes to the looseness and permeability of the soil and, in addition, acts as an antiseptic, protecting the roots from rotting. You can add it 3-8% of the total composition.
SOILS FOR DIFFERENT PLANTS
We do not always have the opportunity to collect all the necessary components for a soil mixture, then we use a purchased mixture. Soils, universal or specially formulated for individual crops, are made from peat with the addition of macro and microelements.
An average set of fertilizers, more or less meeting the needs of most crops, is included in universal soils - they are convenient if you have a rather motley collection of indoor plants. If the collection is dominated by representatives of one or more species or families, give preference to special soils, balanced taking into account the characteristics of these plants.
Soil for cacti and succulents - the main requirements for this soil are water permeability and poor nutrients. Such soils contain a large amount of sand (about half), the rest may be high-moor peat and leaf soil.
Soil for orchids - they usually contain several components - peat, sphagnum, coal, bark. The greatest confusion occurs with these substrates. There is no single soil for orchids, since among them there are groups of different habitats.
For terrestrial orchids, purchased soil meets the requirements, but there are epiphytic orchids that live on trees; such soil is absolutely not suitable for them. For this group it is necessary to use only bark, sometimes with the addition of sphagnum moss and pieces of charcoal, but in no case should peat be added.
Soil for orchids with the addition of high-moor peat in equal parts is optimal for anthuriums, philodendrons, monsteras, and bromeliads.
Soil for bromeliads - they consist mainly of high-moor peat with the addition of leaf soil and sand. To make it more loose, you can add small pieces of bark, chopped sphagnum, pine soil, and coal, or prepare it based on soil for orchids, adding about half of the universal soil based on high-moor peat.
Soil for palm trees is a loose and breathable substrate based on high-moor peat with the addition of sand, leaf and turf soil.
Fern soil is a loose, organic-rich mixture. To create a mixture, you can add leaf humus or vermicompost-based soil in equal parts to the soil for succulents.
The soil for Gesneriaceae is an acidic substrate based on high-moor peat. It is advisable to add a little sand or perlite, coniferous soil, coal; for greater moisture capacity and looseness, it is good to add cut sphagnum.
Soil for gardenias - it consists of high-moor peat and sand; you can add approximately equal parts of leaf and coniferous soil. Be sure to use only acidic mixtures.
The soil for azaleas is light, acidic, air- and moisture-permeable, based on high-moor peat, sometimes with the addition of coniferous soil.
The most common packaged soil on sale is called “Universal substrate for indoor plants.” This composition should be used only for non-capricious indoor plants, since it represents a basic mixture of various soil structures, often the least valuable. The quality of such a substrate leaves much to be desired, since this soil is often heavy in composition, easily forms lumps, and cakes quickly, therefore requiring the grower to add sand for flowability and lightness or other loosening materials when planting and replanting plants.
But high content peat in universal soil leads either to its drying out too quickly or to the accumulation of moisture, depending on the grower’s inclinations to the frequency and abundance of watering. To protect the plant from itself, you should mix the universal substrate with sand or other leavening agents (perlite, vermiculite...).
The substrate for citrus fruits is always dense and nutritious, suitable for orange, calamondin, lemon, kumquat, murray, as well as olive trees, palm trees, Mediterranean tree plants (bougainvillea, oleander, coffee, jasmine, fig, pomegranate). The substrate for citrus fruits usually includes clay, sand, peat, and bark.
The substrate for pots with a water reservoir (for hydroponics) contains expanded clay and a porous mixture (synthetic or natural origin - perlite, pozzolan, polyacrylamide - hydrogel). Peat is rarely present in such a substrate, because this substrate must have good air permeability. And if peat is still present, then its share in the total volume should not exceed 50%.
Well, in conclusion, when purchasing any soil, you need to take into account its acidity. An example of acidic soil is peat soil, and alkaline soil is clay-turf soil. Chernozem soils are considered neutral.
Be sure to pay attention to this indicator, it plays a big role in the life of plants. Depending on the growth of the plant, it needs a substrate of varying acidity levels.
SOILS YOU CAN COMMONLY FIND IN OUR STORES:
Medium acidic, for azaleas (rhododendrons), rhipsalis, indoor sedges, platyceriums, sundews, blue hydrangeas.
Slightly acidic, for begonias, balsams, gloxinias, fuchsias, pili, pelargoniums, asparagus, jasmine, gisneria, ivy, fittonium, clivia, sansevier, chlorophytum, ginur, coleus, monstera, black and Spanish pepper, acalyph, nightshade.
Geranium - neutral, for geraniums, pelargoniums, asparagus, dracaenas, clivia, ivy, cyclamens, fatsias.
Slightly acidic, for prickly pears, lobivias, mamilaria, cereus, gymnocalyciums, notocacti, astrophytums.
Cypress - slightly acidic, for cypress, thuja, fir, araucaria, cryptomeria, juniper, bonsai.
Neutral, for lemons, tangerines, oranges, grapefruit, coffee, jasmine, figs, pomegranate.
Neutral, for roses, chrysanthemums, gerberas, cineraria, callas, carnations, cyclamen, gloxinia, calceolaria, tuberose.
Slightly acidic, for violets, alocasia, anthurium, campanula, aucubus, aspidistra, cyperus, dieffenbachia, dracaena, ferns (adiantum, asplenium, nephrolepis, pteris), calathea, spathiphyllum, arrowroot, peperomia, aphelandra, syngoniums, felicia, guzmania.
Tradescantia - slightly acidic, for Tradescantia, zebrin, callisia, ruelia.
Ficus - slightly acidic, for ficuses, hibiscus, clerodendrons.
Nocturne - slightly acidic, for fuchsia, ivy, chlorophytum, balsam, coleus, ginura, cissus, asparagus.
Neutral, for palm trees, ficus, sheffler, fatsia, dracaena, yucca, boxwood, laurel, strawberry tree, fig trees, oleander, olives, eucalyptus, croton, for large ornamental indoor plants.
Rhapsody - neutral, for palm trees, ficus, sheffler, fatsia, dracaena, yucca, crotons, for large ornamental indoor plants.
Symphony, Sonata, Suite, Overture - for floral and ornamental crops.
Neutral, for all types of flowers (it is advisable to add raising agents).
For indoor flowers, you need special soil so that it does not dry out quickly or, conversely, turn into a clay lump. This is what we will talk about today in continuation of our topic about growing plants at home.
Before you go shopping at the garden center, it's worth brushing up on your knowledge about house flowers:
But let’s return to “our sheep” - what soil is best for indoor plants.
First, I’ll tell you what kind of soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes: soil taken from a flower bed or garden. Loose and fertile, in a pot it tends to become stone and is completely unsuitable for the home.
To plant indoor plants you need a special composition. You can prepare them yourself or buy them ready-made in the store.
It is worth talking in more detail about ready-made planting mixtures (substrates) usually used for growing home flowers.
Why ready-made soil mixtures are not suitable for indoor plants
Ready-made substrates that are sold under the proud name “Soil mixture” actually have nothing in common with soil. They consist mainly of red (high) or black (low) peat with the addition of mineral fertilizers and other components (coconut fiber, vermiculite, charcoal, etc.), depending on what plants they are intended for.
This is what the manufacturer usually reports in small print somewhere at the bottom of the package, calling this revelation “Composition of the mixture.”
Have you ever read it?
Most failures in growing home flowers are associated with the use of ready-made (read: peat) substrates.
There is no doubt that it is very convenient to use ready-made planting soils. There is no need to look for different types of soil, no need to prepare them for future use and store them in the house, taking up the space needed for life. Peat-based compositions are light and absorb water well. On sale you can find such a mixture for all types of plants. And this would be a solution to the problem for most amateurs, if not for one thing...
But the peat composition is unstable, it dries out quickly. All assorted peats must be kept constantly moist - when they dry out, they have difficulty absorbing moisture. But most of your green pets require the soil to dry out between waterings. And some of them can’t stand it at all excess moisture.
That is why it is easy to flood a flower in such a soil substrate.
In peat compositions, fertilizer reaches the root system much faster than in earthen ones, but when watering it is easily washed out. Therefore, within a few weeks after transplantation you will have to feed the plant. Do you know that the dose of fertilizer when feeding is not always easy to determine? At the same time, it is easy to “overfeed” your pet or, conversely, make him “starve”!
By using ready-made peat-based substrates, you create additional difficulties for yourself.
The exception is compositions with the addition of vermicompost. Humus (chernozem) is soil rich in organic matter. Such compositions are less common and are usually more expensive compared to peat-based substrates.
We conclude:
The soil for indoor flowers must be prepared with your own hands.
Don't be alarmed, it's not difficult at all.
A little information about various types Soil will help you figure this out.
Characteristics of garden lands
It is quite porous and elastic. It can be found in the meadow closest to your home. It is enough to take good turf (a layer of soil with grass roots, 15-20 cm deep), chop it and sift it with a sieve. Plant residues can be discarded, and what remains will be turf soil.
Deciduous (leafy)
This is light, loose and quite nutritious soil, which is formed from the annual rotting of leaves and branches in a grove, forest or planting. The easiest way to find leaf soil is in places with densely growing deciduous trees, in which the foliage is not removed, but remains on the surface and rots. Remove the top layer of freshly fallen leaves and collect the soil that is under it, but no deeper than 10-15 cm, possibly with the remnants of well-rotted last year's foliage.
Humus
It is obtained from rotted manure. It is light, fluffy and very rich in nutrients. In the village it is quite easy to find humus soil. In the city you can get it in greenhouses.
In its pure form, sand is used for cuttings.
It is added to all mixtures in an amount of 10-20 percent.
The best is coarse-grained river or lake sand.
Preparing soil for indoor flowers at home
Recipe one:
This mixture is called heavy. This soil composition is suitable for indoor plants with thick, coarse roots: dracaena, monstera, large trees.
Recipe two:
This mixture is called medium. It is suitable for plants with roots of medium thickness: aspidistra, large spathiphyllums, anthuriums, small shrubs.
Recipe three:
This mixture is called light. It is suitable for species with thin, delicate roots and all herbaceous species.
Recipe four - universal soil for indoor plants:
It will come in handy if you were unable to find turf and humus soil.
In the literature for gardeners there are complex recipes with the addition of various exotic components. For example: coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, brick or marble chips, perlite, etc. It is believed that some types of flowers grow better with such additives.
But the truth is that plants are very flexible and easily adapt to other types of soil mixtures as long as they contain enough nutrients. Therefore, do not complicate your life by searching for rare soil additives. The above recipes will suit almost all of your green pets.
So, the sixth secret in growing indoor plants
To avoid difficulties in caring for house plants, the soil for indoor flowers should be prepared with your own hands according to one of the above recipes.
Finding the perfect soil for your favorite indoor flora is like searching for the mystical “Holy Grail” that will instantly make the plant bloom in a lush bouquet. In reality, the search and selection stories are more similar to fishing ones: if your neighbor is biting (read: grows/blooms better), then his worm (soil) is better. However, the truth is often not buried in the soil, although it is one of the four pillars of proper plant growing, along with lighting, watering and care.
What soil is the best? The answer to this question depends on what plant you have on your windowsill. The best soil for - this is the worst soil for a desert cactus. Both will be completely unsuitable for aquatic plants. And some plants do not need soil at all (for example, epiphytic orchids or aerophytes). However, if we don’t touch exotics, then almost all soils have characteristics that unite them, knowledge of which will help you find the right soil among similar ones specifically for your plant.
Soil characteristics
In order not to make a mistake with the choice of soil, you need to know its main characteristics and correlate them with the requirements of a particular type of substrate.
The main characteristics of the soil include:
- porosity and looseness of the soil, which determine air penetration (soil aeration);
- ability to pass moisture (moisture permeability);
- ability to retain moisture (moisture capacity);
- nutrient conductivity;
- acidity level - pH. If for, a slightly acidic environment is required (pH 6.0–6.5), then for, a neutral (pH 6.5–7.0) is required, and a slightly alkaline one is suitable for and. As a rule, the pH is indicated on the soil package.
ON THE PICTURE: Air- and moisture-permeable soil for growing seedlings
Soil composition
To do right choice, it is worth paying attention to the composition of the soil mixture. It determines how often watering, replanting, fertilizing and their quantity are required.
High peat
High peat (a product of the decomposition of sphagnum growing in raised bogs) is part of most soils. It is widely used in its pure form for cultivation both in private, indoor culture and in agriculture. High-moor peat is characterized by high moisture capacity, breathability and lightness. It is these properties that made it a leader among other primers. An additional "bonus" for residents of regions with hard water in the water supply is the acidic environment of peat. It moderately neutralizes salts during watering, although this effect is short-lived.
Houseplants are rarely grown on pure peat, because. it is extremely nutrient-poor. In addition, unwatered peat is difficult to absorb moisture. Those who use high-moor peat soils know what headache turns watering such a substrate. A pot with overdried soil should be placed in a basin of water and wait until the peat picks up the right amount of moisture.
Lowland peat
Lowland peat (obtained from lowland marshes, wetlands) is rich in nutrients. That is why it is used in combination with high-moor peat as part of the most popular soils for indoor plants. In its pure form, lowland peat is not used at all: due to its fine structure, it is quite “heavy”, quickly cakes, retains water and has low air permeability. This factor can play a cruel joke, for example, with aroids, whose roots are easily damaged due to stagnant water.
Vermicompost
Vermicompost - it’s just “humus” that is very popular both as an additive in soil mixtures and as a separate substrate (more often in garden farms). He is surrounded by a mass of myths and bears the title of "super soil for all plants." In fact, the prefix "bio" was added by marketers, and the humus itself is nothing more than rotted plant residues that make up the top nutrient layer of the soil.
It is very good if the store soil contains humus from a region with nutrient-rich soils (such a “region” can be former land agricultural, state farm, "cow barn"). But most often it is a "pig in a poke".
Even good, nutritious humus in its pure form has certain disadvantages: it has low air permeability (not immediately, but as it cakes) and high moisture capacity. Plants grown in a substrate on “vermicompost” need to be watered less frequently, and the top layer needs to be loosened more often.
Sod land
Similarly to “biohumus”, the glory of soddy land walks among the people. Sod - This is the root-inhabited part of the soil. As with humus, turf soil can be different, which means it is impossible to talk about a single quality standard for such soil. Its quality depends on the specific location: if on the territory of abandoned collective farms/state farms the turf soil is good, then in the field it is not so good. The main disadvantage of turf soil is the need to clean it from the remains of other plants, followed by steaming to remove possible microorganisms.
For independent experiments, it is better to use soil from garden farms in which fruit trees. Very popular "coniferous land"
- it is light, aerated, has a slightly acidic reaction and is in many ways similar to peat, although it does not dry out so much that you have to soak the pot with the plant for hours. Almost any sod-leaf soil is relatively poor in nutrients (or slowly releases them). 
ON THE PICTURE: Peat tablets
Additional components in the soil composition
Auxiliary substances in the soil mixture are like lifesavers for amateurs and professionals. Some improve soil looseness, others increase moisture permeability, and others protect against excessive moisture.
Below we will touch only on the most popular ones:
Vermiculite- a natural mineral that retains water well (up to 200–300% of its own weight) and slowly releases it along with dissolved minerals. It is used as a component of soils for hydroponic growing of plants, for growing seedlings, in its pure form - for rooting cuttings of Peonies, Roses, etc.
Perlite- this is nothing more than volcanic glass, which during heat treatment becomes light and porous. It is used by almost all greenhouse growers and therefore often frightens buyers who think that these are insect eggs or part of the mythical “transport soil”. Perlite gives the soil greater looseness and breathability. It is added to substrates and used in its pure form for growing seedlings.
Coconut fiber, coco soil or coconut flakes(or chips) - All these are products of processing of coconut palm fruits. The fiber is the long "strands" of the coconut shell. Coco soil can consist of fine shavings and so-called “chips” - parts of a larger fraction. Both are a product of processing the middle shell of a coconut.
Major faction more often used by terrariumists to create bedding for amphibians. Small fraction received the common name “kokogrunt” and began to enjoy enormous popularity primarily in the West. Coco soil worthy of a separate publication, but here we will add that this is an ideal component for creating loose, moderately moisture-absorbing soil for almost any non-aquatic plant. Pure coco soil is used in hydroponics because... does not contain nutrients and allows you to create individual nutrition. Coconut fiber used for growing orchids, ferns, bromeliads, succulents.
river sand, increasing moisture permeability and preventing caking of the substrate, widely used for palm trees, cacti and succulents. For bulbous plants, sand can be a kind of “cushion” that protects the bulb from excessive moisture. However, you should be wary of sand accumulation in the ground, because... when moistened, it does not allow oxygen to pass through easily.
Sphagnum moss with its high hygroscopicity, it is simply irreplaceable in substrates for epiphytic orchids. In addition, he can help out if you need to leave for a few days. Wet sphagnum moss placed in a pot will gradually release moisture to the plant.
Charcoal- increases the looseness of the soil, it is also able to absorb excess moisture and slowly release it. However, its main property is antifungicidal and antiseptic. It prevents the development of fungi and the formation of rot. That is why it must be mixed not only with the soil, but also with the drainage layer. Charcoal is an essential component of soils for orchids, arrowroot, bromeliads, and aroids.
Dolomite chips or flour - popular soil deoxidizer. It is often used in mixtures with high peat to reduce the acidity of the latter. A soil mixture with peat-based dolomite flour becomes more suitable for plants that prefer a neutral and slightly alkaline reaction: many types of palm trees, cacti and succulents. In addition, this additive enriches the soil with magnesium, which is especially necessary during the active growing season.
note: in inexpensive brands of soil, dolomite flour is replaced with ordinary chalk. It copes well with the main task of reducing acidity, but does not transfer nutrients into the soil. 
ON THE PICTURE: Growing Saintpaulia in sphagnum
IN Lately widely used as a moisture-retaining soil additive hydrogel
(otherwise - aqua soil). It is used in growing seedlings, potted plants. This polymer ingredient ensures maximum soil breathability and reduces the need for watering by 3-6 times. In some cases, the hydrogel itself can act as a primer. In the granules that swell after contact with water, cuttings take root well and cut flowers do not wither for a long time. Moreover, in tandem with liquid fertilizers, in such aquatic soil they grow with pleasure, . Hydrogel, unlike conventional primer, can be used without changing for 2 years. 
ON THE PICTURE: The hydrogel is easily colored with natural, safe dyes and can look very attractive in glass vessels.
Buying ready-made soil in a store
Today you can buy several types of soils in stores:
- universal(for example, flower soil.) This is a more economical option if plants with similar conditions live on the windowsill and are not very demanding on the quality of the substrate.
- special soils intended for a specific species (for example, soil for palm trees, Saintpaulia). This option is more preferable, as it takes into account the needs of a particular plant. However, it is necessary to pay attention to the composition and characteristics described above.
When choosing between domestic and foreign-made soils, it is better to give preference to the latter. In Russia, foreign soils include soils from German manufacturers. They are made on the basis of high-moor peat with the addition of perlite, vermiculite and essential minerals (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) and trace elements (iron, manganese, zinc, boron, etc.). 
ON THE PICTURE: A popular brand of high-quality German fertilizer, available for purchase in Russia and the CIS
If you were not able to become the happy owner of such soil, then you can simply improve the store-bought mixture with the additives that we wrote about above, with adjustments to the requirements of a particular plant. The soil requirements for individual flora representatives can be viewed in our catalog.
Most domestic soil mixtures are made on the basis of humus soil with the addition of sand. If you add peat and perlite to it, it will acquire a slightly acidic reaction and become light and breathable. This soil is suitable for most indoor plants. If you need to increase the pH of the soil, then you need to add peat (if it is the basis of the soil). dolomite flour or chalk, as well as perlite. Neutral and slightly alkaline soil is more suitable for succulents and some desert ones. 
ON THE PICTURE: Soil permeability affects the penetration of nutrients to the roots
The right soil with your own hands
If it is not possible to buy really high-quality soil or the substrate is required in large quantities, you can prepare it yourself.
For creating correct soil per 10 liters you will need:
- High-moor peat - 7 l or 5 l (more peat is necessary for plants that prefer an acidic reaction, as well as in cases where you want to fertilize plants less often);
- Coco soil (fine fraction coconut shavings) - 2 or 4 liters, respectively (the more coco soil is used, the more often the plant will have to be fertilized, since coconut shavings do not contain nutrients);
- Perlite - 0.7 l;
- Vermiculite - 0.3 l (if the cocosoil content is high, vermiculite is not required, perlite is added instead).
This instruction is not ideal, since it requires the owner to more carefully (compared to using store-bought soil) control over the amount of fertilizer and use it more frequently. We remind you that coco-soil does not contain any nutrients, and high-moor peat contains a small amount of them. With an increased content of these substrates in the soil, the use of fertilizers is required more often. The mixture can be improved if, at the stage of soaking the coco-soil (which is mandatory), diluted fertilizers are used. Their concentration depends on the plant's need for nutrients. For demanding crops (bromeliads, ferns and palms), the concentration is reduced to 1:2. For undemanding species (Azaleas, ) - up to 1:4. If the soil is chosen correctly, the root system develops actively, taking over the space of the pot. 
ON THE PICTURE: Hippeastrum bulb grown in universal store soil and coco soil. Photo from the site -
frauflora.ru
- When choosing a soil, it is better to choose a substrate for a specific plant (for example, “azalea soil”) than to buy universal potting mixes.
- At the same time, when choosing between Russian soil for a particular plant (“for palm trees”, “for violets”) and German universal, it is better to give preference to the latter. They are truly versatile.
- The use of additional additives will help you improve the quality of the soil, accelerate the growth and development of the root system.
- You can prepare a quality soil yourself, which is ideal for your species.
- If you are striving for best results in crop production, pay attention to coco soil. It can be an excellent replacement for conventional soils.
- Hydrogel will help you in growing moisture-loving species.
