Instruction
Metal dowelThe metal dowel-nail is the hardest to remove. Take a heavy hammer and loosen the fasteners. If it doesn't work, then drill another hole as close as possible to the dowel. It will be easier to loosen with him. A loose dowel will not be difficult to pull out.
Plastic dowel It happens that during the repair you remove the wallpaper and find an old plastic dowel. You don't need it anymore. Everything is easier here. Leave it in place, because it is obvious that when removed, the hole in the wall will increase. You do not want to close up the wall again, waste time and effort. But if you need to drill a hole for a new dowel very close, then remove the old one. Use a regular corkscrew. Screw it into the nylon and pull the dowel out of the wall. Cover the vacated hole with plaster. When the plaster hardens, you can drill a new hole nearby.
A plastic dowel with a broken self-tapping screw inside.Here it will make you work a little harder. Give up the thought of drilling it, as the steel of the self-tapping screw is very. You'll have to go for the trick.
Take a hot soldering iron at 60-70 watts and heat the dowel along with the stub of the self-tapping screw. The plastic of the dowel will melt, and you will pull out the self-tapping screw with a knitting needle or tweezers. If it doesn’t work out quickly, then hook the self-tapping screw and heat it further through the tweezers. After a few minutes, it will still fall out.
The second way is to take a thin-walled steel tube. Choose the diameter of the tube taking into account the diameter of the dowel. At the end of the tube, use a needle file to make four teeth. Use the resulting product as a drill. Such a tube will enter the hole without problems and come out straight with a self-tapping screw. Start drilling at a low rotational speed and gradually increase it. Even if your dowel is made of durable material, at high speeds the steel tube will become hot and you can burn out the dowel.
Repair in the apartment involves high-quality wall decoration. To prepare a room for wallpapering or applying another decorative coating, the walls need to be leveled, after releasing them from the previous fasteners. Often the master has to remove the dowels that have become unnecessary, through which the screws are fastened. Skill and some tricks can help with this.
You will need
- - self-tapping screw;
- - corkscrew;
- - a sharp knife;
- - awl;
- - nail puller;
- - hammer;
- - soldering iron;
- - punch;
- - angle grinder ("Bulgarian").
Instruction
To dismantle a conventional plastic dowel, in the simplest case, use a self-tapping screw of a suitable size. Screw the self-tapping screw into the dowel about two-thirds so that the self-tapping screw is securely connected to the part to be dismantled. Then hook the head of the screw with pliers and pull it out along with the dowel. In some cases, a table corkscrew can perform the function of a self-tapping screw.
If ordinary pliers do not help, pry off the head of the self-tapping screw screwed into the dowel with a nail puller. This lever allows you to remove the dowel with less effort. The main thing is that the self-tapping screw with its working part is tightly planted in the hole.
Dismantle the homemade wooden dowel from the socket in parts. To do this, crush it along the wood fibers into several pieces using a chisel with a thin blade and a hammer. Pry the dowel destroyed in this way with the tip of a sharp knife, nail or awl, and then carefully pull it out.
The edges of a screw usually break at the most inopportune moment, regardless of whether you are a master or a beginner. Due to the fact that the tip of the screwdriver does not fit tightly into the grooves on the head of the screw, during rotation the tip of the screwdriver slips, as a result of which the edges on the screw are torn off. When heated, the screw, although not by much, will expand and increase in volume, compressing the material into which it is twisted. Due to the lubricating properties of the liquid, the friction force between the screw and the material will be significantly reduced and the screw will become easier to unscrew. There are no hopeless situations, and the solution to the problem of unscrewing a screw with torn edges is a confirmation of this.
Video - The best ways to remove a broken screw
Need to pick up right size for screwing into a broken slot. Set the extractor to chuck screwdriver and securely tighten the chuck. Since the extractor is reverse threaded, this means that a drill with an extractor set to reverse will drill into the head.
Why do the edges on the fastener break off?
The screw breaks even when too little pressure is applied to the screwdriver. On the other hand, a screw may be quite new, but it bends and subsequently breaks due to poor quality. As soon as the screwdriver slipped over the edges for the first time, do not get excited and repeat the procedure. Perhaps in your case, the screwdriver simply does not fit the screw you have chosen. Therefore, you can try your luck by using several attempts with other screwdrivers. The screw will move out of its place and then it can certainly be removed. This method is also applicable if a stripped thread does not allow the screw to be unscrewed.
To do this, it is enough to have any sufficiently sharp metal object made of durable metal. With such a nozzle, you can not only pierce wood, but also clean the slots from paint. And their main drawback is that the slots are not deep.
Maximize the quality of the screw-driver grip. Be sure to check that you are turning the screw in the correct direction when you remove it. Strong pressure on the screwdriver itself prevents it from slipping in the hat. Heat the screw with a blow dryer or gas burner moving the appliance constantly to avoid overheating.
Step 1: Rubber band (elastic band)
Ideally, tools designed for repairing glasses should be used for twisting (there will be no difficulties in finding them, and they are not very expensive). It is advisable to insert the tip at a slight angle to increase the contact area. Use a nail file.
This screwdriver is well suited for durable building structures, but it can damage electronics and fragile equipment. rubber mallet to avoid scratches on the screwdriver handle. Check the direction of rotation of the screwdriver. Repeat the procedure until the screw yields.
Step 1. As noted earlier, there is only one recess on the head of such a screw. Use only an unnecessary card, because it may well be damaged during twisting. Step 7. The last way is to use pliers.
Types of screws
The slot on this screw is broken. In such fasteners, the entire load falls on the screws. Both the hole and the slot are damaged. Then, by removing the slot, the fastening materials are damaged. Even if adhesives are not used, corrosion can also do a “dirty job”: when rusting, a metal fastener becomes one with the tree. Do you know anything about a special nozzle designed for unscrewing damaged screws? Hit the center punch with a hammer, but not very hard, because the diameter of the rod is already small, do not damage it even more. The size of the extractor must match the size of the screw.
You can fix the problem by heating the fasteners. When it cools, space will be released in the structure of the workpiece, which will weaken the grip. As soon as the fastener becomes hot to the touch, it is necessary to stop heating.
If a broken screw sits in the material at a decent depth, and there is no other option how to remove it ... The time has come for the “cheap and cheerful” option.
If so, then you should only work with a recess of greater length to simplify the task. The method often works only with small screws. Step 5 Use an old CD. After waiting a bit for the melted plastic to solidify, turn the brush counterclockwise.
Edge sawing
Fastening with screws of any products, a convenient and reliable way. Let's try to figure out how to make unscrewing more efficient. More precisely, the slot in his head breaks.
To do this, you should use a hacksaw for metal with the thinnest blade possible.
Often, the corners (edges) formed by the intersection of the recesses grind off and become brittle, which greatly complicates the unscrewing of such screws. Use your fingernail. Insert the edge of an old CD into the long groove and turn it counterclockwise. Use pliers. Torx protected screws also exist; they have a rod in the center of the recess in the shape of a six-pointed star. Use a small flathead screwdriver.
It fits well into the hat and is fixed on it. inner surface with numerous teeth notches. Set the punch exactly in the center of the screw head. Take a quality drill bit designed for drilling hard metals. Drill slowly and evenly (if possible, use drilling machine). Tap the extractor until it locks securely into the drilled hole.
Of course, this method is not applicable so often, since not every part can be heated in this way. Alternatively, instead of blowtorch you can use a soldering iron or an industrial hair dryer, this option is suitable for small screws. Substitute a chisel to the head of the bolt and try to rip it off. strong blows hammer. There is an electrochemical option for loosening old screws and bolts.
It is important that the tip fits snugly into the groove and is not damaged.
Pretty clear and understandable wooden structures. But what to do if the threads on the bicycle bolts are torn off? Bgg, I blew off on the steering wheel, just on the mount to the stem.
The most effective and generally accepted method of dealing with non-loosening bolts is to wet it (the bolt) with penetrating liquids (WD-40, kerosene). Such liquids penetrate deep into the threads of the bolt and lubricate it, after which the bolt slides more easily along the thread. effective method unscrewing stuck bolts is oblique blows to the hat. Usually it is a drill with a reverse thread.
Step 6: Leave him alone?
A little trouble, like a broken screw, happens different reasons. It happens that in a hard material, the screw simply breaks off, and part of it remains in the body of the material. There are several ways to remove a broken screw. If there is no protruding part, then you need to deepen them in the area of \u200b\u200bthe screw to the edge of the break and grab them. So far, it doesn't really pull anywhere. Perhaps this is the most important thing.
The meaning is the same - “to tear off the rust from the place ... And if the screw has become attached, then a common way to deal with this trouble is to soak it in Coca-Cola. After the screw has turned sour, or better longer, for example, left overnight, it must be warmed up well! We work with glasses. The hole as a result may not be very even, but after small fix building mixture, in this place you can again hang a shelf, for example. Very good and useful tool, with it there are nozzles (bits) for all occasions, and it is not very expensive.
The solution to the problem can be an extractor. On the opposite side of the device there is a perpendicular crossbar, with which you can rotate. Next, you need to use the extractor itself. Then you need to turn the device several times.
We try to push it as hard as possible. Instead of stationery gum, you can take any rubber plate or other part. To no longer suffer with licked screws, they can be fixed.
Maybe, of course, not quite in the subject, but my father, when in the old days he screwed something at home, constantly asked me to bring him soap from the bathroom. First, you first need to make one sharp biting blow to the head of the screw. I was in such a situation and, to be honest, I didn’t always twist it positively.
Moving under light pressure to the handle, the nozzle will also inform about the depth of the hole. hand drill will help you out when you need to wrap a large number of screws.
Why is it so important to preserve the material? By revealing the question, it will be possible to get a more reliable answer, avoiding disputes between those who give answers. The main thing is to do everything confidently so as not to break the drill. And if the hat is deep and there is no way to get close to it?
Very often, in this case, we are faced with torn screws, the removal of which sometimes seems almost impossible. If there are no edges on the torn screw at all, try unscrewing it with a small adjustable wrench. If you have heated the part, start cooling the screw. If you have heated the screw, cool the part. As a result of the resulting temperature difference, the broken screw must be loosenable.
Check the condition of the screw. Be careful not to damage the new notch with excessive force. Before taking on the removal of a torn screw, you need to assess the need for its removal.
I've always managed to get it out this way. Then there is no way to get close to him. How to make a hole in a tile for an outlet? Yes, elementary, a professional will answer! In this video, we will consider one method, the other two, I will simply describe the manufacturing technology. Maybe you decide to talk about your repair, write, we will listen with pleasure.
You should take a tool with an unworn sharp sting and try to non-violently remove the naughty fasteners.
Something simpler, the simplest, so as not to damage. And at the expense of burnt screws (as I understand it, they were exposed to high temperature) - they could harden or, on the contrary, sink. Probably everyone, at least once, has come across such a nuance as sagging ceiling. Holding the other end, mark the place where the nail will be hammered.
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When repairing or construction works with your own hands, it often happens that you need to remove a screw whose head has been torn off. Depending on the type, size and material of which the screw is made, various ways its extraction. It also matters how badly the slot is torn off and the material into which the screw is screwed.
You can remove the rest of the screw using special tools - extractors. They are selected according to the size of the screw, screwed into drilled hole counterclock-wise. After the extractor is jammed, you can turn out the screw. In the absence of such a tool, you can unscrew small screw with a torn off head by improvised means.
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Screw removal
There are several ways to remove the screw if the head is completely torn off:
- If the diameter of the bolt allows, you can drill it out with a drill with a drill bit of a suitable size.
- If you take a smaller drill, you can place a bent nail in the drilled hole and unscrew the screw.
- If you need to unscrew a small screw, you can put superglue on it and attach a screwdriver. After the glue has hardened, you can try to unscrew it. Similarly, you can use liquid nails.
- If the size and material into which the screw is screwed allows, you can use welding, then you need to weld the nut on top and then unscrew it.
- On a large screw, you can cut a slot with a hacksaw and unscrew it with a screwdriver.
If the head is not completely torn off, you need to heat the screw very carefully so as not to damage the material into which it is screwed, then try to remove it.
Broken edges
If the edges of the screw are torn off, and the screwdriver turns when you try to remove it, you should:
- Cut out the edges so that a flathead screwdriver can catch.
- Rest the chisel against the edge of the head and, tapping with a hammer, try to turn the screw.
- Use a box socket or adjustable wrench to remove a stripped screw.
- Remove the screw by placing an impact screwdriver on the edge of the cap.
- Place a flat screwdriver under the cap and lightly hit the handle with a hammer.
In the event that none of the options fit, you can break the screw into pieces with a chisel and chisel and remove it from the hole.
Instruction
To begin with, try to still get the self-tapping screw with a regular screwdriver - with the help of a needle file, make a groove under the straight slot of the screwdriver and try to unscrew the part. If it doesn’t work out, don’t try too hard, it will only aggravate the situation. Use other methods.
If the case is not completely neglected, then you can try the following fairly simple method - select a drill bit that matches the diameter of the self-tapping screw in diameter. And drill it until the hat separates from the leg. This must be done very carefully, since the metal shavings flying at this moment are very small and actively strive to get into the eyes. Be sure to use safety goggles! Many craftsmen strongly advise using a stud gun, noting its high functionality and efficiency even in the most difficult cases.
After the part holding the screw is eliminated, all that remains is to pull the leg out of the base. This can be done with pliers or simple pliers.
If the diameter of the self-tapping screw allows, you can use another rather effective, but also very time-consuming option. To do this, drill a hole along the axis in the screw, sufficient to insert a carnation or any other thin and rigid metal part into it. After that, carefully drive it halfway into the hole made. Bend and, again, carefully, begin to unscrew the screw. In this case, be prepared to spend considerable time - jewelry work.
If the screws are rusty, use WD 40 - this is a tool that allows you to remove excess moisture. Just pour it on the stubborn part and, if possible, try to stir it up to improve the penetration of the substance between the self-tapping screw and the base. After about half an hour, try to unscrew the screw again. At the same time, please note that the surface that has been degreased with WD 40 must subsequently be lubricated. Otherwise, corrosion and, accordingly, destruction of the part cannot be avoided. Therefore, use this tool only for cases similar to the problem described, as well as to remove moisture from the mechanical surfaces of parts and devices.
Photo 1. Unscrewing an old countersunk head screw from a window sash with glass.
Of course, the simplest and fast way getting rid of old screws is a crowbar, but this method is good only when the old ones are dismantled wooden windows or doors before disposal or when appearance is of no fundamental importance. And in order to unscrew the old screw with a minimum of damage to the wood in which it is screwed, and to the glass, if the work is carried out with a window sash (as shown in the photo), it is often necessary to take the following actions:
1. Clean the slots from the paint
A slot (from the German schlitz - a cut) is a recess on the head (hat) of a screw for a regular or Phillips screwdriver. In Soviet times, with all sorts of handles, locks and other latches on windows and doors, they didn’t really stand on ceremony, and therefore they covered it with oil paint, without embarrassment and not paying attention to whether it was on fittings or screws protective covering or not. Well, the paint, obeying the laws of physics, accumulated in the slots and dried out there, replacing the putty. It is almost impossible to unscrew a screw with 3-5 layers of paint on a countersunk head without cleaning the slot. However, it is not so difficult to clean the old oil paint from the slot. To do this, it is enough to have any sufficiently sharp metal object made of durable metal. Under enough durable metal not only tool steel, but also different kind victorious and corundum soldering on various kinds of scribers, in last resort you can use a thin nail, in any case its strength is much greater than the strength oil paint. Personally, I use a special wedge nozzle for these purposes, this used to be included in a set of screwdrivers. With such a nozzle, you can not only pierce wood, but also clean the slots from paint. However, the disadvantage of such a nozzle is that it is not always at hand. This happened in the described case, when in the country it was necessary to unscrew a couple of old handles, so a nail was used to clean the slots.
You need to clean the slots very carefully, the more paint you remove from the slots, the more likely it is that the screw can be unscrewed. However, this is not yet a guarantee of success. I don’t know exactly why, whether it was because there was some miscalculation or flaw in the technology of making screws, or screws for domestic purposes were made only on equipment worn out in the arms race, or from poor quality steel, or simply because I come across only such old screws, but the slots of the old scoop screws are not of high quality. And their main drawback is that the slots are not deep. And the smaller the depth of the slot, the easier it is for these same slots to be "torn off" or "licked off" when unscrewing. After all, when we try to unscrew a screw, we must overcome the frictional force between the screw shaft and the wood. This force arises during elastic deformations of wood and does not weaken for many years and even decades, and if the screw also rusts, then the resulting scale must be further destroyed. And to do this is not always easy. Even a simple nail hammered into wood, which can be immediately pulled out with a crowbar without any problems, after many years due to corrosion, can adhere to the wood so that it is almost impossible to pull it out, just cut it off or break it off.
Sometimes if there is an old unnecessary screwdriver, then you can sharpen it and use it as a chisel to deepen the slots.
2. Press as hard as possible on the screwdriver at the very beginning of unscrewing
As already mentioned, the main task, to overcome the friction force and the adhesion force of rust, i.e. break the screw off the dead center. If you managed to turn the screw at least a quarter of a turn, then consider that the job is done, then everything will only get easier. With each turn, the area of contact of the screw with the wood will decrease and, therefore, the friction force will decrease. Sometimes, in the process of unscrewing, the slots are completely licked, but if the screw is unscrewed at least half a centimeter, then you can continue to work with pliers.
3. Drill out the head of the screw
If the screw was hammered, and not twisted into wood and bent at the same time, or rather, its axis changed shape and became not straight, then sufficient play is needed to unscrew such a screw, which can only be obtained if the screw to be unscrewed is the last one. And also if you tore off the slots on the head of the screw, but could not turn it even a quarter of a turn, then in these cases best option- drilling the head of the screw. To do this, you need to have a drill and a drill for metal with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the countersunk screw head. When you have torn off the slots, then you can drill the head without preliminary punching, and if the screw does not stupidly unscrew, but the slots are in place, then it is better to punch first. However, in the course of drilling, the drill itself will fall into the sweat. After the head is drilled, you can remove the fittings and the rest of the screw or unscrew it with pliers or hammer deeper.
There are probably other ways to unscrew old rusty screws, but I don’t know them yet.
