Electric sewing machine seagull 134 instructions. Seagull sewing machine repair

1. Correct installation of the needle is one of the main conditions for the operation of the machine.
   Be careful when replacing the needle.
2. Before connecting the machine to the network, make sure that there is no damage to the insulation in the connecting wires and that the electrical equipment is in good condition (the electric drive instructions are attached).
   The machine can only be connected to a network with a voltage of 220 V. When the network voltage is 127 V, it is necessary to use a transformer.
3. Turn the handwheel only towards yourself, otherwise it may cause the threads to become tangled in the shuttle device.
4. Before you start sewing, you must first insert the needle into the material, holding the ends of the threads, then lower the presser foot and make 2-3 injections by turning the handwheel manually.
5. Care must be taken with the rising and falling needle.
6. If the threading is incorrect, the machine will not sew.
7. Keep the machine clean and regularly lubricated. Vegetable or animal oils should not be used to lubricate the machine, as they harden and cause heavy running of the machine.
   To lubricate the machine, it is necessary to use oil for sewing machines or oil type I-20A GOST 20799-75.
8. Do not pull or push the material while sewing to avoid breaking the needle.
9. All necessary work When servicing the machine or carrying out repairs, it should only be done after turning off the machine from the network by disconnecting the plug from the power socket.

2. PURPOSE OF THE MACHINE

Household sewing machine class 142 is designed for sewing cotton, linen, synthetic, wool and silk fabrics with a straight or zigzag stitch with one or two (double-rod) needles, for performing decorative and special stitches, as well as for embroidery and darning.

3. TECHNICAL DATA

3.1 Maximum rotation speed of the main shaft, rpm - 1000.
Note: At maximum sewing speed, parts will wear out faster.
3.2. Maximum total thickness of stitched materials, mm - 4.5
3.3. Presser foot lift, mm - at least 6.
3.4. Stitch length (adjustable), mm - up to 4.
3.5. Zigzag width (adjustable), mm - up to 5.
3.6. Needle displacement to the right and left from the middle (adjustable), mm - 2.5.
3.7. Head dimensions, mm - 290x178x412.
3.8. Sleeve extension, mm - no less than 170.
3.9. Weight of the machine with foot drive, kg - no more than 39.
3.10. dimensions table-cabinet, mm - 570x430x780.
3.11. Weight of the machine with electric drive in a suitcase-case, kg - no more than 16.
3.12. Dimensions of the suitcase-case, mm - 500x220x340.
3.13. Used needles: 0220 No. 70, 80, 90, 100, 110 GOST 22249-76 and double-rod No. 0240 No. 70, 80, 90 GOST 22249-76.
Threads used: sewing cotton 21 tex x 3 (No. 30); 16.5 tex x 3 (No. 40); 13 tex x Z No. 50); 10 tex x 3 (No. 60); 7.5 tex x 3 (No. 80) GOST 6309-80, as well as natural silk threads No. 65 GOST 22665-77.

4. CONTENTS OF DELIVERY

4.1 Sewing machine class 142 is manufactured in the following versions:
a) sewing machine with foot drive and table-cabinet (142-22, 142-22-0, 142-22-1);
b) an electric sewing machine on a stand in a suitcase (142-33).
c) a sewing machine with a table-cabinet, with foot and electric drive (142-22-33); 142-22-1-33).

4.2 Each machine comes with:
a) a set of accessories included in the box:
needles - 5 pcs.
double-rod needles - 3 pcs.
oiler - 1 pc.
large screwdriver - 1 pc.
small screwdriver - 1 pc.
darning device - 1 pc.
foot with ruler - 1 pc.
sewing foot 1 - 1 pc.
bobbin - 4 pcs.
ripper knife in a case - 1 pc.
brush-brush - 1 pc.
lighting lamp voltage 220 V,
power -15 watts - 1 pc.
thread threader - 1 pc.
device for blind stitching - 1 pc.
foot for sewing on buttons - 1 pc.
switch foot - 1 pc.
foot for obtaining relief stitching and sewing on cord - 1 pc.
foot for buttonholes and satin stitch - 1 pc.;
b) instruction manual with acceptance certificate and warranty card.

4.3 Equipment of the machine with a table(Fig. 1)
The head 3 with its lower part (platform) 15 is attached to the cabinet table using two hinges 14 and screws 16, the visor 11 is screwed to the machine platform with two screws 13 and washers 12.

5. PREPARING THE MACHINE FOR OPERATION

5.1. Preparing for operation of a foot-operated machine(see Fig. 1)

Recline top cover 2 and place it on the previously opened door 1 of the cabinet table as a support.
Then lift the front valve 5, pull out the machine head 3 and, lowering the valve, install the machine head on it.

After this, put the belt 6 on the flywheel 4, thread its two ends through the holes in the visor 11 and connect them with a paper clip. Before starting work, put belt 6 on drive wheel 7.
Operating a foot-operated machine requires some skill. Beginners first need to learn how to work Idling cars. To do this, you need to release friction screw 2 from the flywheel 1 side (Fig. 2a) and turn it in the direction indicated by the arrow (towards you). At the same time, hold the flywheel stationary with your other hand.
By alternately pressing your feet on pedal 8 (see Fig. 1), set in motion the flywheel 4, which should rotate in the direction indicated by the arrow in the figure.

Rice. 2a, 2b

When switching the machine into working mode, you need to be extremely careful.
Friction washer 1 (Fig. 26) should be placed with horns 4 facing outwards, i.e. towards friction screw 2. Then screw in friction screw 2 until it stops and screw in screw 3.
If in this position the machine does not turn on, you should unscrew the thrust screw 3 and turn the washer 1 half a turn and again, securing it with the friction screw 2, screw in the screw 3.

5.2. Preparing to operate an electric machine(Fig. 3)

The machine comes with a cord with three plugs. Plug 4 is plugged into the rheostat socket 5, plug 3 into the motor socket on the machine, plug 2 directly into the mains socket.
To enable lighting lamp Plug 1 must be inserted into the socket located in the top cover of the machine.
The machine is put into operation by smoothly pressing the rheostat pedal 5 with your foot. When starting, it is recommended to lightly touch right hand flywheel rim, turn it in the direction indicated by the arrow in the figure (i.e. towards you).
Note: Do not over-tighten the drive belt. When pressed in the middle part, it should bend by about 5mm.

5.3. (Fig. 4)

1. Presser foot.
2. Foot shaft.
3. Needle holder.
4. Needle bar.
5. Cover.
6. Thread take-up lever.
7. Screws for securing the cover.
8. Reel rods.
9. Winder tension unit.
10. Stitch type selection indicator.
11. Zigzag width indicator.
12. Winder.
13. Flywheel.
14. Zigzag width handle.
15. Handle for shifting the needle left and right.
16. Knob for switching the type of stitches.
17. Reverse feed lever.
18. Stitch length adjuster knob.
19. Upper thread tension regulator.
20. Sleeve with platform.
21. Sliding plate.
22. Shuttle device.
23. Material engine.
24. Needle plate.

5.4. Installing or replacing a needle(Fig. 5)

By turning the flywheel toward you, the needle bar is set to its highest position.
Then needle 1 is inserted into needle holder 2 up to the stop and secured with screw 3.
The flat side of the bulb 4 (flat) on the needle should be facing away from the person working.
Note: The needle is always inserted up until it stops, with a long groove on the side where the thread enters.

First, secure friction screw 2 (see Fig. 26) by turning it in the direction opposite to the arrow, i.e., set the machine to working stroke.
Then set the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you.
After this, lift the presser foot 5 (Fig. 6) with the lifting lever 2 and pull the spool pin 3 up from the sleeve cover all the way and install the spool of thread on it.

5.6. Top threading

The upper thread is threaded in the following sequence (Fig. 7):

a) from spool 1 to holes 2 and 3 of the thread guide;
b) between the tension washers of the regulator 6;
c) through thread guide spring 5;
d) down under hook 7;
e) up through the hole in the thread take-up lever 4;
e) down into the wire thread guide 8;
g) down into thread guide 9 on the needle bar;
h) into the eye of the needle 10 from the side of the person working from himself.

Threads are threaded into a double-rod needle in the same sequence.

5.7. Getting a quality stitch can be achieved with correct selection needles and threads depending on the thickness of the materials being sewn.

It is recommended to take the lower thread a number thinner than the upper one, or, in as a last resort, one number.
The machine you purchased has a needle No. 100 installed, so to test the machine for sewing, you need to use thread No. 40 and cotton fabrics such as calico or flannel.
When sewing thin and viscous materials, it is recommended to guide and hold the material or place thin paper under the material to avoid seam pulling.
The numbers of needles and threads, depending on the sewn materials, are indicated in Table. 1.
Note: You can see the table of modern needles. You must use the type of needles for which the machine is configured. Domestic needles - the diameter of the flask is 1.75mm, imported - 1.7mm.

Table 1

5.8. Threading the upper thread with a needle threader(Fig. 8)

To make it easier to thread the needle, a threader is used, with which the thread is pulled into the eye of the needle.

5.9. Threading the bobbin thread

Before threading the lower thread, you need to pull out the sliding plate 21 (see Fig. 4).
Then, opening the latch 6 (Fig. 9) of the bobbin case 1, remove it from the hook 2.

Next, wind the threads onto the bobbin using a winder, while the flywheel of the machine should rotate idle (see Fig. 2a).
Place bobbin 3 (Fig. 10) on the winder rod. Thread the thread from spool 2 between tension washers 1, as shown in the figure, and wind several turns onto bobbin 3 by hand. Then bring the winder with the bobbin to stop 4 and wind it by rotating the flywheel using the drive, lightly holding the spool of thread with your hand to prevent the spool from jumping off the rod. The winder will stop when the bobbin is fully wound. Before removing the bobbin, move the winder away from stop 4.

Insert the wound bobbin into the bobbin case and thread it as shown in Fig. 11, first into slot 1, then under spring 2 and bring out the free end of a thread 10-15 cm long.
Adjust the spring force using screw 3.

Holding the bobbin case by the latch 6 (see Fig. 9), put it on the rod 4 of the hook 2 until it stops and release the latch. In this case, finger 5 should enter slot 3. When the bobbin case is correctly inserted, the latch should be spring-loaded and should tend to return to its original position when opened.

5.10. Start sewing

Before sewing, the bottom thread must be pulled onto the needle plate. To do this, holding the end of the upper needle thread, turn the handwheel so that the needle drops into the needle hole, grabs the lower shuttle thread and rises to the upper position. Then, using the upper needle thread, pull the lower shuttle thread onto the needle plate (Fig. 12) and pull both threads away from you under the foot (Fig. 13).

Rice. 12 Fig. 13

After this, holding the threads, lower the needle into the material (rotating the flywheel with your hand) and, lowering the foot, make 2-3 injections. You can then sew by holding and guiding the material. After finishing sewing, raise the presser foot (the needle should be in the upper position), pull the material being sewn away from you and cut the thread on the edge of thread cutter 1 (see Fig. 6) located on the rod of the presser foot, leaving the end of the thread 8-10 cm long.
To check the sewing quality of each type of stitch, it is recommended to make a test stitch on a piece of fabric you need and, if necessary, adjust the thread tension.
Adjustment of the tension of the upper thread is carried out using tension regulator 4 (see Fig. 6).
The interlacing of the upper and lower threads on thick materials should be in the middle of the materials being sewn (Fig. 14). On thin materials, the interlacing of the top and bottom threads is formed on both sides of the fabric.
If the interlacing of threads when forming a stitch is on top of the material, you need to loosen the tension of the upper thread.
If the weave of threads is at the bottom of the material, you need to increase the tension of the upper thread.
Note: With the correct selection of needle-thread-material and correct adjustment upper thread tension, the stitching is adjusted only with the upper thread tension regulator.

When passing through thickenings of the fabric, it is necessary to sew slowly and turn the handwheel by hand.
If there is a jam in the fabric under the presser foot, it is recommended to lift it and move the material a little manually, while the needle should be outside the material.
It must be remembered that it is impossible to start the machine without placing material under the presser foot.
Otherwise, the teeth of the material motor and the surface of the presser foot will deteriorate.
After finishing sewing, be sure to place the material under the foot and lower the foot with the needle.

5.11. Machine lubrication

Before lubricating the machine, remove cover 3 (Fig. 15), having first loosened screws 4.
After this, all places indicated in Figures 16, 17, 18 are lubricated with 2-3 drops of sewing machine oil.
If the machine has not been running for a long time, or if the oil has thickened, it runs rough, the machine needs to be washed.
It's done like this. A little kerosene is injected into all lubrication points indicated in the figures. Then the machine is put into operation for a while. Kerosene that has leaked from the lubricant area is removed with a rag. After this, lubricate the machine.
To lubricate the machine, use only oil marked “Oil for sewing machines” or industrial I-20A GOST 20799-75.
When using the machine continuously, it must be lubricated periodically.
Note: Lubrication is only necessary in the articulated parts. I always recommend lubricating the machine every 8-16 hours of operation, it runs quieter and easier.

5.12. Installing the Top Cover

Cover 3 (Fig. 15) is installed as shown in the figure. In this case, the needle should be in the upper position and the winder should be turned off. Safety shield 2 electric lamp When installing cover 3, it should not touch bracket 1.
Note: I bend the lower edge of bracket 2 towards the light bulb to prevent it from hitting bracket 1.

(Fig. 16)

(Fig. 17)

(Fig. 18)

5.13. (Fig. 19)

Heavy running of the machine, and sometimes jamming, can occur due to contamination of the shuttle movement. The course is clogged with scraps of thread, tows of fabric, dust.
To clean the shuttle stroke, the needle bar must be placed in the upper position. Then you should pull out the bobbin case 5, turn the spring lock 4 toward you, remove the cover ring 3 and remove the shuttle 2. Clean the shuttle travel socket 1 from dust, dirt and threads with a brush.

Given the importance of this operation, it is recommended to clean the shuttle periodically.
At the same time, it is not allowed to use metal objects when cleaning, so as not to damage work surface shuttle progress.
Note: After cleaning, drop a drop of oil onto the working surface of the shuttle device, then stitch a piece of paper to remove the oil.

6. MACHINE CONTROL(Fig. 20)

6.1. To sew with a simple straight stitch, you need to combine the number 0 on handle 6 with the pointer 5. Handle 2 can be in any position.

6.2. The stitch length is set by turning knob 7 relative to pointer 9 on the panel.

6.3. To obtain a fastener, press lever 8 all the way down and release it, while the lever automatically returns to its original position.

In Fig. 20 shows scale 1, which shows the types of stitches performed on the machine.

6.4. To shift the stitching, use handle 4. By turning it all the way without effort in the direction indicated by the arrows, the needle moves, respectively, to the right or to the left from the middle position.
Stitch offset is used when performing special operations, for example, when sewing buttonholes, sewing in zippers, etc.

6.5. The height of lifting of the material motor teeth is adjusted using regulator 1 (Fig. 21).

The regulator can be used with the sliding plate removed. For thick materials, the regulator is set to mark H (normal), for thin materials - to mark W (silk), for embroidery and darning - to mark B (embroidery). The letters must be on top.

6.6. To switch to zigzag, decorative and target stitches, handle 2 (see Fig. 20)
By lightly pressing from yourself and then turning it, set it to the required type of stitch. Turn knob 6 to set the required zigzag width relative to pointer 5.
The pattern for finishing products will be clearer with a smaller stitch pitch.

7. ADAPTATION FOR SEWING MACHINE

The sewing machine is equipped with a set of accessories that expand the capabilities of the machine. The rules for using them are described below.

7.1. (Fig. 22)

With this foot you get closed seam, used in sewing linen. The position of the handles should be as follows:
Set knob 6 (see Fig. 20) to 0 relative to pointer 5.

The stitch type switching knob 2 can be in any position. Set knob 7 to a stitch pitch within 2...3 mm, depending on the materials being sewn.

Sewing is performed in two operations:

First operation. Raise the needle to its highest position and replace the presser foot with a stitching foot. Pull the lower and upper threads as shown in Fig. 13. Fold the materials to be sewn front side to each other, so that the lower material protrudes relative to the upper by 4...6 mm.
Before starting work, you should cut the corner of the fabric obliquely so that the fabric can be more easily tucked into the slot of the foot and passed to the needle. Then lower the foot, sew 2-3 stitches manually, rotating the handwheel, then pull the material along with the threads as you sew until the material motor grabs the items being sewn.
When working, you need to ensure that the bottom layer of material is folded to the left and three layers are stitched evenly at once (Fig. 23).

Rice. 23. Fig. 24

Second operation. Unfold the sewn materials, cut the corner of the hem obliquely and tuck it into the slot of the foot, then sew as described in the first operation.

Final linen seam shown in Fig. 24.

7.2. It is also used for sewing on lace (Fig. 25).

The lace is tucked with its edge into the slot of the foot directly under the needle. The machine is set to sew with a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch. Handle 2 (see Fig. 20) is set to number 1 relative to pointer 3. The width of the zigzag is set with handle 6 relative to pointer 5 to the required width.

7.3. (Fig. 26)

The machine is set up in the same way as when sewing with a hemming foot.
The cutter foot is used for hemming the edges of thin and medium-thick fabrics.
Raise the needle to the upper position, replace the main foot with a switch foot. Tuck the threads (top and bottom) under the foot.
Before you start sewing, you should cut the corner of the fabric at an angle to make it easier to tuck the fabric into the snail of the foot. Then bend the fabric (approximately) 5 mm and pass through the snail of the chopper foot to the needle. Next, lower the foot and sew 2...3 stitches manually, rotating the handwheel. Then, as when working with a hemming foot, slightly pull the fabric along with the threads as you sew until the material motor grabs the material, then continue sewing, all the time directing the edge of the material into the snail of the chopping foot (Fig. 27 ).

7.4. (Fig. 28)

When darning, set regulator 1 (see Fig. 2!) to mark “B;”, set the zigzag width regulator knob (see Fig. 20) to “0” relative to pointer 5. Stitch length regulator 7 should be set to “0” . Handle 2 can be in any position.
Install the darning device instead of the main foot, as shown in Fig. 28.
You can darn without the help of a darning device, but this is with sufficient skill.
The edges of the damaged area are cut off and the fabric is pulled tight in the hoop. Then you should place the fabric under the needle and lower the presser foot lift lever down to ensure tension on the upper thread.
When the machine moves quickly, the hoop is moved with both hands slowly and evenly forward and backward in the longitudinal direction, extending 1 cm beyond the edges of the defective area. Then darn in the transverse direction.

7.5. (Fig. 29)

The foot with a ruler is installed on the machine instead of the main foot

The machine is adjusted in the same way as when sewing with the suture foot. A foot with a movable guide ruler is used when sewing, when the next line needs to be made parallel to the previous line. The ruler is installed at a certain distance from the needle and secured with screw 1.
The fabric is guided in such a way that the ruler slides along the stitched seam. The second seam is stitched at a specified distance. In this way, you can stitch rows and squares of the same width, as well as quilting cotton products; for this, the cotton wool is placed between two layers of fabric and stitched evenly.
The ruler foot can also be used for sewing in zippers (Fig. 30). In this case, you need to unscrew screw 1 (see Fig. 29) and remove the guide ruler.

The stitching is done in the following order:
a) a special foot is placed on the machine for making loops (Fig. 31);

Rice. 31 Fig. 32

b) set the stitch length to a value close to zero;
c) the needle is shifted to the left side with handle 4 (see Fig. 20) and by lightly pressing handle 2, set it until number 1 aligns with pointer 3;
d) the width of the zigzag stitch is set using handle 6 to approximately 2 mm.
For strength and improvement appearance loops can be sewn with cord or thick thread. In this case, the cord is pulled through the front hole in the foot and placed on the material under the foot.
When stitching a cord with a zigzag stitch, you must ensure that the cord is strictly directed along the zigzag axis. Having swept one side of the loop to a certain size equal to the length of the loop, set the needle to the lower position of its right injection, raise the foot and turn the material around its axis clockwise by 180° (Fig. 32a);
e) turn the handwheel so that the needle is in the upper position, and then set the width of the zigzag stitch to the full width of the stitched loop, approximately 4 mm.
With several needle pricks, a backtack is performed. After completing the fastening, the needle is left in the material on the left side or in the upper position (Fig. 326);
f) set the width of the zigzag stitch to the width of the second side of the loop and overcast it, making sure that the turned cord is parallel to the overcast side. Having maintained the length of the first half of the loop, leave the needle in the material on the left side or in the upper position (Fig. 32c);
g) set the width of the zigzag stitch to 4 mm and perform the second bartack with several injections (Fig. 32d), after which the needle is raised to the upper position by turning the handwheel;
h) using handle 4 (see Fig. 20), set the needle to the middle position, set the zigzag handle 6 to “0” and make 2-3 injections to secure the bartack;
f) after this, the product is removed from under the foot, the threads are cut off and the loop is cut.
A ripper knife is used to cut the loop (Fig. 33).
The buttonhole foot is also used for satin stitch. The work is done with a zigzag stitch at a small stitch pitch.

7.7. (Fig. 34)

This foot is used to sew on flat buttons with two and four holes. The work is performed in the following sequence:

a) install a special foot;
b) set the height regulator of the material motor teeth to “B” (see Fig. 21), set the stitch pitch regulator to “0”;
c) move the needle with the shift regulator 4 (see Fig. 20) to the left;
d) place material with a button under the foot so that the holes of the button are under the notch of the foot;
e) set the machine for a zigzag stitch, taking the zigzag width equal to the distance between the centers of the holes on the button;
f) sew on a button with 6...8 stitches;
g) set the zigzag handle to “0” and make 2...3 fastening injections into one button hole. If the button has 4 holes, then the second pair of holes is sewn in the same sequence. Loops and hooks are sewn in the same way.

7.8. (Fig. 35)

Using this foot, a relief stitch is obtained with a cord laying, and the cord is also sewn on.

Longitudinal grooves at the base of the foot make it possible to obtain a series of parallel lines. The pictures show how to make several parallel relief stitches with the hole laid inside using double needles. The cord can simply be placed under the material (Fig. 36) or fed from the reel through the hole in the needle plate (Fig. 37).

Rice. 36 Fig. 37

Sewing on a cord (soutache) can be done with a zigzag stitch. The cord or soutache is fed from the bobbin through the hole in the needle plate and through the hole in the foot (Fig. 38, 39).

7.9. (Fig. 40)

Having previously unscrewed screw 1 securing the main presser foot, insert device 2 for blind stitching under the screw into the slot of the foot and secure the screw.
The needle should be in the up position.
The width of the zigzag is set to 2-3 mm, the stitch pitch is 3-4 mm. Align number 2 (see Fig. 20) of the knob for switching the type of stitches 2 with the indicator of the type of stitch 3. The amount of material gripping during the left injection is adjusted with the needle shift knob 4 until the needle slightly grabs when making its left injection upper layer material.
After hemming, unfold the material and smooth it out.

7.10. Embroidery

Embroidery is an art, in its nature it is close to drawing, only here paints are replaced with threads of appropriately selected colors or pieces of multi-colored fabrics.
There are several types and methods of artistic embroidery, which, with a certain skill, can be carried out on a machine: cutwork, appliqué, artistic satin stitch and others.
For embroidery, you need a hoop and small scissors with curved sharp ends. The printed fabric is stretched taut in the hoop. To prevent the fabric from skewing, you should first stretch it along the grain thread, and then slightly pull the material from the sides and straighten the resulting folds or gathers.

Preparing the machine for embroidery:

a) remove the presser foot;
b) lower the presser foot lifting lever down so that the needle thread is always under tension;
c) set the stitch regulator lever 7 (see Fig. 20) to the zero position;
d) set the material motor lift control knob to position B (see Fig. 21).
When embroidering, it is necessary to slightly increase the tension of the lower thread, correspondingly loosening the tension of the upper thread. This is done so that the front seam is more convex.
To do this, place the hoop under the needle, and holding the end of the needle thread, make one injection of the needle, rotating the handwheel by hand. Pulling the top thread, pull the bottom thread up. Then, holding the ends of both threads, make 2-3 stitches, rotating the handwheel by hand, and only then turn on the machine. The hoop with the fabric is moved when embroidering by hand.
It is necessary to move the hoop with the needle in the upper position without lifting it from the surface of the platform in order to prevent skipping stitches. The machine should operate at low speed when embroidering.
The sequence of methods for preparing the machine for embroidery described above is common for all types of embroidery.

(Fig. 41)

Richelieu is a type of artistic embroidery when part of a design is cut out of fabric, and the resulting gaps are connected with bridges or cobwebs. Before embroidering, it is recommended to sew the pattern once or twice along the lines of the pattern with a straight seam for greater strength. After this, the fabric is cut out in the right places, and the stitched straight seams of the pattern are overcast with a zigzag stitch. When overcasting, make sure that the straight seam is located inside the zigzag seam.

Embroidering appliqués (Fig. 42)

Applications can be made in two ways:

a) the design or pattern is cut out and sewn with tight (minimal pitch) or wide (large pitch) zigzag stitches;
b) the applique is drawn on the fabric and sewn along the lines of the design using narrow short zigzag stitches. Then the protruding edge of the applique is cut almost flush with the seam and the applique is hemmed with wider zigzag stitches.
In both cases, the upper thread tension must be loosened.

(Fig. 43)

Stitch embroidery requires the appropriate skill.
A hoop with stretched fabric and a pattern applied to it is brought under the needle so that the fabric lies directly on the needle plate. The hoop is moved by hand so that the needle makes injections according to the pattern, tightly filling the entire pattern.

7.11. Overcasting the edge of the material with a zigzag stitch or making a shell-shaped seam on knitted fabric(Fig. 44)

When stitching an edge with a zigzag stitch, the needle should pass outside the material at the very edge when making a right injection, and through the material when making a left injection.
Depending on the thickness of the material, the zigzag width and stitch pitch are selected. The thicker the material, the larger the zigzag width and stitch pitch should be, and vice versa.

To make a shell-shaped seam on knitted fabric, the machine is set to the largest zigzag and stitch pitch values.
With a right injection, the needle should pass at the very edge of the knitted fabric folded in half, and with a left injection, it should pass through the fabric, while the tension of the upper and lower threads is slightly increased.

7.12. Sewing on braid and elastic using a three-point zigzag(Fig. 45)

The braid can be sewn in various ways:

a) two straight parallel lines, using double-rod needles (Fig. 45);
b) two zigzag parallel stitches, using double-bar needles No. 70 and 80. The machine should in this case be set to a zigzag stitch with a width of no more than 2 mm (Fig. 45);
c) one wide zigzag stitch (Fig. 45);
d) you can trim the edge of the material with braid using double-rod needles with double-sided hemming of the braid. A stronger stitch is obtained by setting the machine to three-puncture zigzag (Fig. 45);
e) the elastic is sewn to the material in a slightly stretched position (Fig. 45).

13. (Fig. 46)

This job requires some skill. When sewing, you need to guide the material so that there is no gap between the two parts being sewn together.
A stronger stitch is obtained by using a three-prick zigzag.
The stitching should be symmetrical relative to the seam. This uses a regular presser foot.

To perform an elastic seam with simultaneous overcasting of the edge, you need to move knob 2 (see Fig. 20) to number 2, put knob 6 to number 5, set stitch regulator knob 7 to the required stitch length.

Hemming the edge is done in two ways: with an open cut (Fig. 50) and a closed cut (Fig. 51).

Rice. 50 Fig. 51

Dear buyer! If you have carefully studied our instructions, operating the machine will not cause you any difficulties! We wish you success!

Note: If you regularly clean and lubricate your machine, it will serve you for a long time and will give you only pleasure in operation. When all adjustments are set correctly, these machines sew well. The only thing is the noise from the shuttle gear and the gear sector. In machines that have already worked a lot and the profile of the teeth has “gotten in”, the noise decreases.

8. POSSIBLE MALFUNCTIONS AND METHODS OF THEIR ELIMINATION.

List of the most common or possible malfunctions

table 2

Before us is a sewing machine from the late 20th century, produced by the Podolsk Plant named after. Kalinina. The machine, like previous models, is made entirely of metal. The automation system still had 5 copiers and remained with the same number. True, almost 100% of machine owners sewed in one position of the program selection knob.

Picture 1

Upper thread tension regulator(The thermometer) is made in a metal case, the compensation spring works from right to left, which is not particularly successful, see fig. 2

Figure 2

After removing the top cover, we see that all the parts of the machine are the same as on the 142 class, see fig. 3:

1. Sewing program selection knob;
2. Stitch width setting knob;
3. Needle bar position switch (left, center, right);
4. Automation mechanism housing;
5. Copier pullers;
6. Copiers

Figure 3

In Fig. 4 you can see the main thing difference from class 142 cars, namely the mechanism of the needle bar and the presser rod.
So, in order to correctly adjust the position of the needle bar, you first need to make the correct installation with presser bar. Loosen screws 1 and 2 and position the presser foot relative to the needle hole slot and tighten the screws.
By loosening screw 3, we set the position of the needle bar relative to the sewing; do not forget that the point of the needle No. 100 should fit exactly into the center of the hole.
Adjusting washer remove the needle bar play, to do this, loosen two screws 7, press the washer to the frame and tighten the screws. Screws 4 and 5 are used to fix and adjust the position of the presser foot height and the position of the needle bar rod, respectively.
Screw 6 fixes the position of the thermometer. This screw must be tightened periodically. Thread take-up mechanism the same as in the 142 class car.

Figure 4

Figure 5 shows correct installation of the gear sector and shuttle gear. The third tooth of the gear should fit between the first and second teeth of the sector.

Figure 5

The bottom of the car has not undergone any changes (see Fig. 6):

1. Guide;
2. Cam (lift eccentric);
3. Stitch length regulator;
4. Lower end of the drawbar;
5. Crank;
6. Crank fastening screw (by loosening it, the stroke can be adjusted);
7. Screw securing the reverse handle;
8. Screw (advance setting);
9. Lower end of the fork;
10. Crank;
11. Fastening bolt (setting the position of the fabric conveyor teeth).

Figure 6

Figure 7 shows the bottom of the machine on the left:
1. Knob for selecting the lifting height of the conveyor teeth;
2. Fastening screw, with its help the height of the teeth is adjusted;
3. Guide;
4. Lift eccentric mounting screws;
5. Lifting eccentric;
6. Fabric conveyor shaft;
7. Shuttle device;
8. Screw securing the clamping bracket;
9. Gear sector;
10. Shuttle gear;
11. Adjusting washer.

Figure 7

Adjustment of all components and parts, stroke and advance, elimination of backlash in components is exactly the same as for class machines. 142, therefore, after watching the film, it will not be difficult for you to disassemble, assemble and adjust the sewing machine.

The Seagull sewing machine is perhaps the most popular home model sewing machine, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time I had to buy it for a lot of money, and it seemed like it had sewn well recently, but something began to loop. It really is almost impossible for her to break. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But, unfortunately, it loops almost “from birth” and knocks when sewing, like a machine gun.

Many other “delights” were provided by the factory, along with instructions for design and use, where almost 5 pages describe how the pedal works, given electrical diagram engine, but not a word about how to set up and repair Seagull sewing machine.

The Chaika sewing machine has many models, practically not much different from each other: Chaika 2; 3; 142m; 132; 134; 143 and others. Sewing machines of the Podolsk plant: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1 others, as well as sewing machine Malva, have approximately the same device as the Seagull. Therefore, the instructions for one of these machines are quite suitable for any model of a full zigzag sewing machine, such as the Chaika.

Setting up, adjusting and repairing Chaika sewing machines is almost the same for all the models listed above, with the exception of repairing the copier (depending on the machine model) and setting some shuttle parameters. But since our task is to learn how to configure only a stitch, we will omit the repair of many components in this article. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands without professional knowledge and experience, especially at home.

Sewing machine lubrication Seagull

Before you begin repairing and setting up the Chaika sewing machine with your own hands, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains and remove the top cover (it is secured with two screws from the top). Disconnect the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, and the hook mechanism cover. Disconnect the machine from wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) dust, dirt, fuzz and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil. You can look at the places that need to be lubricated in the instructions for the machine or lubricate all accessible rubbing metal parts and assemblies.

For lubrication, it is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe; just select a size so that it fits into the neck of the container with oil. The needle must be removed when filling with oil.

Repair of the sewing machine Seagull

The main malfunction of "Chaika" type machines that perform zigzag stitching and several types of finishing stitches based on it are skipping, looping of the lower and upper threads, as well as thread breaks at the top and bottom. It is these faults and ways to eliminate them that we will consider in this article.

Thread breakage most often occurs with Chaika-type sewing machines. The first reason leading to thread breakage is the bent point of a blunt needle, which breaks the thread while it is moving. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible.
Use serviceable needles designed for Chaika sewing machines in accordance with the instructions.

A thread break can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, the thread will periodically break. When performing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly spaced from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the needle position L should be the same as R.

The longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle slot is carried out by shifting the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker arm, in the upper part of the machine (scroll the flywheel on the zigzag stitch and you will see this fastening).
Loosen these screws and set (on a straight stitch) the needle exactly in the center (offsetting the needle bar frame). After that, check the position of the needle with its left and right injection. I hope that the needle entry (at the maximum zigzag width), on the right and left, will be evenly spaced from the center. If it touches the edge of the hole at the maximum zigzag width, contact a specialist; this case is for him.

Adjusting the vertical position of the needle

The transverse position of the needle is regulated by a rod mounted on a plate with two screws and a plate pressing the needle bar frame to the bracket rod. Adjusting this unit is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously go astray during operation, especially with the Chaika electric sewing machine. Therefore, if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since moving the needle forward is the cause of its breakdown, and moving it away from the seamstress is the cause of skipping.

Adjusting the needle position requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact a specialist, since it may cause failure of other components, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.

It can be added that when using a crooked needle, notches may form on the nose of the shuttle, which “fluff” the thread and break it. The nose of the shuttle should be perfectly smooth and sharp, without roughness. Its condition can be determined by running your fingernail along the edge of the nose or using a magnifying glass. The clamping plate tightening screw should not be jagged, the latch handle should be clearly fixed and its surface should be clean and smooth. The shuttle itself must also be perfectly clean, without nicks and rust spots.

Adjusting the needle bar and attaching the tensioner

When sewing rough fabrics, sometimes the needle moves up along with the needle bar. There are gaps in the stitch. In this photo, the arrows indicate where the needle bar fastening screw and the upper thread tensioner fastening screw are located.

Incorrect position of the hook of Chaika sewing machines leads to thread breakage and the appearance of other stitching defects, including gaps. Skips usually appear due to the incorrect position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not capture the formed loop, it passes by and a skip is formed. Many other factors may also be the cause.

In order to correctly set the meeting position of the shuttle nose and the needle, it is necessary to adjust the position of the shuttle stroke. You can loosen the two bolts that secure it and carefully, using a powerful screwdriver, move or move away the stroke together with the shuttle in relation to the needle. The shuttle travel rotates on an axle rather than moving back and forth. This is very important point. There is no need to pull it out with a nail puller or hammer it in, it easily turns on its axis. It is difficult for an inexperienced person to immediately understand what is being said, but it is also very difficult to explain in more detail. Anything else that can be added, look carefully before twisting anything, much less unscrewing it. There should be no remaining parts after the repair.

Shuttle and needle adjustment parameters (Seagull)

At the moment of the meeting between the nose of the shuttle and the blade of the needle, the following parameters must be observed: the gap between the nose and the blade is approximately 0.15 mm; when the needle comes out from the lower position to a height of 1.8 - 2.0 mm, the tip should approach it above the eye of the needle by 1 mm, at least, but not more than 3 mm.
By the way, a very important point is raising the needle from the lower position (1.8 - 2.0 mm). This parameter affects the formation of the needle loop and should be taken into account Special attention. In order for the spout to grab the thread from the needle, it is necessary for a loop to form, where it passes, hooking it. That is why the needle must first go down and then, having risen a little, meet the tip of the looper.

The position of the needle is also regulated by the needle bar; for this purpose there is a screw for fastening it to the sleeve under the front cover (see above).

If you set the following parameters for adjusting the shuttle stroke, then sewing machine "Seagull" will work relatively fine. But, unfortunately, the repair is not finished yet. There are also many other shuttle settings that are quite complex and necessary for the Chaika sewing machine. It is there that the reasons for thread looping and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines are hidden - the bottom thread breaks. Complexity of presentation of this material The fact is that for almost any model of the Chaika sewing machine, engineers have provided their own specific settings for setting up this unit and, moreover, requiring a lot of experience from the performer. For which we thank them, at least from the sewing machine repairmen. They will not be left without work as long as there are Chaika sewing machines.

Flywheel friction washer

Sometimes you have to remove the flywheel from the machine. There are only three parts in this assembly, but many people cannot assemble it correctly. This is due to the fact that it would be more logical to insert the petals of the friction washer inside the slot of the shaft, so they do so. As a result, the machine begins to idle.
The petals should not be facing towards the machine body (shaft), but towards you. Moreover, they can be supplied in “two versions”; choose the one in which the limit screw will not interfere with tightening the flywheel fastening.

A full process of working on a sewing machine, regardless of experience with this device, is impossible without its correct settings, which are done manually. So, let's look at this article detailed diagrams how to properly thread a sewing machine.

General instructions for refueling a sewing machine

General instructions for refueling a sewing machine looks like this:

1. Wind the thread you will be working with onto the bobbin and at the same stage put the top pin on the spool for the upper thread.
2. The next step is to thread the upper thread in the sewing machine. For this process, there is usually an instruction on the instrument case. The upper thread is the one that extends from the spool into the eye of the needle. Before you thread the thread through the eye, you should raise the foot and set the needle so that it takes the position at the very top.
3. Check thread tension. IN modern devices There are special tension regulators.
4. After threading the upper thread, you can thread the lower thread. To do this, you need to turn off the drive (moss wheel) and insert the bobbin into place. After this, you need to turn on the wheel and spin it until there is enough thread on the bobbin.
5. Insert the bobbin cap into the hook, making sure that the bobbin pin aligns with the slot in the hook. If everything is done correctly, you will hear a characteristic click.
6. The thread must be brought out through the valve plate and closed. The upper and lower threads must be connected and pulled back behind the shoulder blade.

To check the correctness of the work done, you should spin the flywheel. After the needle rises and falls, a loop should form from the hole in the plate on the upper thread from the lower thread.

To understand how to thread a bobbin into a sewing machine standard type, we recommend watching a video tutorial that tells not only the sequence of actions, but also where the bobbin is located and what nuances you should pay special attention to:

Correct threading order

This process will vary depending on the type of machine. Modern devices have detailed instructions, how to properly thread the threads into a sewing machine, and the devices themselves are designed in such a way that you can intuitively guess how to do everything. But with rotary type machines, difficulties arise, so we will present two instructions in detail:

Top threading

1. Pass the thread from the spool through the mount near the device body.
2. Pass the thread through the thread tension regulator and insert it into the compensation spring, which looks like a hook.
3. Thread the thread through the hole in the thread guide, out through it and into the existing fastener, then into the eye of the needle.

Some machine models have a fork instead of a thread guide. In this case, you just need to put the thread on this fork, and not thread it into the hole.

Threading the bobbin thread

1. Wind the lower thread not on the spool, but on the bobbin.
2. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case, with the thread tucked under the spring plate.
3. Check thread tension. A certain tension is set for the machine model.

How to thread a double needle?

If the machine performs a zigzag stitch, then a double needle can be installed in it. In this case, the threads will be threaded into the needles in exactly the same way as if it was done with one needle, the only difference is that an additional - second - spool will be required. In this case, both threads must pass through the same upper thread tensioner.

Instructions on how to thread two needles into the machine:

1. The double needle is installed according to the same principle as a regular needle. The cut of the needle should be directed away from you, and the round side of the needle bulb itself should be directed towards you.
2. The threads from both reels must be passed through all the thread guides, not forgetting about the upper thread tensioner. It should turn out that the lowest thread guides will separate them.
3. The left thread must be threaded into the needle on the left, and the right thread, respectively, into the needle on the right. If the device has one thread guide, then the left thread must be passed through the thread guide, and the right thread next to it, tucked under the eye of the needle.

Using a double needle is not difficult, the main thing is to thread both upper threads correctly and also loosen their tension (in the bobbin itself). The lower thread will be used when sewing simultaneously with the upper thread, thereby forming a zigzag, so it is necessary to loosen the tension.

The twin needle makes it easier to perform a double finishing stitch on a machine, as well as to perform decorative finishing stitches with just one stitch of a double needle.

Manual sewing machine: how to thread

When setting up a manual machine, it is important to choose the right needle and thread number for a particular type of fabric, as well as adjust the thread tension, otherwise the quality of the stitch will suffer. Otherwise, threading a manual sewing machine should not cause difficulties, as can be seen from the instructions for threading the Chaika machine:

1. Turn the handle so that the mechanism that attracts the threads is at the top.
2. Insert the needle into the holder until it stops. The flat side should be facing the rod that the foot is on.
3. Use a screw to secure the needle.
4. Place the spool of thread on the rod provided for this purpose.
5. Pass the thread through the friction washer and thread guide.
6. Insert the thread into the thread guide and secure it in the needle holder.
7. Thread the thread through the eye of the needle (this will be the top thread).

Threading the bobbin thread:

1. Wind the thread onto the bobbin.
2. Insert the bobbin into the cap. The thread should be on the outside.
3. Insert the cap back until you hear a characteristic click.
4. To tighten the thread, you need to turn the handle of the tension machine.
5. Tuck both threads (top and bottom) under the presser foot.

How to properly adjust thread tension:

• Use the screw located on the bobbin case. The tighter the screw is tightened, the tighter the thread.
• Adjust the tension using the regulator located at the lever that lifts the presser foot.

Some useful rules on using the Seagull machine:

• You cannot start stitching without a needle lowered under the presser foot in advance.
• The handle of the machine turns strictly towards itself; you cannot change the direction of rotation.
• To work on this machine, you need to choose fabrics that are suitable for all types of stitches, otherwise you can ruin not only the fabric, but also render your machine completely unusable.

Video: How to thread a Podolsk manual sewing machine?

Another old machine that my grandmothers had at home is a Podolsk brand device. Despite the fact that this model is old and manual, it is pleasant to work with it if you understand all its mechanisms and learn how to refuel, in which the following video will help:

To enjoy your work, and also to avoid problems during work, you should thoroughly study the instructions for threading the sewing machine, because not only the quality of the sewn product, but also the service life of the device will depend on this.

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