It's been a while since I wrote here! And you can find a bunch of good reasons for this... And main reason- I was engaged in what, as they say on the radio, is not the “format”! And so, not according to my desire, but out of necessity, I started renovating the bathroom. Previously, the renovation was done in 2005, this date is solely for the purpose of understanding what was available then from available technologies and materials. I think that some ideas are still relevant today! For this reason, I decided to post several articles, so to speak, in reverse order, i.e. during the analysis...
This first article is devoted to the issue of bending of plastic panels when covering rooms in corners. I think that this question may be well known to many, but there will also be those who simply did not think about this option for resolving the issue, but followed exclusively the path that our industry offers and bought various corners provided for these purposes. In my opinion, the option I proposed, firstly, will save money (not buying corners), secondly, it looks more aesthetically pleasing, and thirdly, it allows you to maintain the integrity of the structure. Maybe someone else will come up with an idea positive traits, I think these are quite enough!
So, let's take a look at it plastic panel! (for demonstration I used scraps, debris - in short, garbage)
For creating internal corner It’s enough just to make a cut along the entire length of the panel with " wrong side"the required segment, which will further form the angle. The cut can be made with a simple construction knife. The panel is cut quite easily and simply.
As practice has shown, although it is enough simple cut, but in pairs it is still better to completely “select material” from this segment - as in the photo below. This is due to the fact that when bending, the edges of the cut plastic can interfere with each other... !!! not required, but recommended!!!
You need to bend it carefully, with smooth movements, gradually along the entire length, so that the panel does not break in this place. A fairly large angle can be achieved.
For external corner, you need to “select material”, no longer from one segment. This is due to the fact that the cut edges overlap and they begin to rest and prevent the panel from bending.
If you do everything correctly, slowly and carefully, you can achieve results like these!!!
INTERNAL CORNER
OUTSIDE CORNER
Attention, smooth and good angle, it will work out if the walls that you are sheathing/pasting with panels also have normal angles!!!
Polypropylene pipes are the most common material that is often used when installing a heating system. A polypropylene pipe can withstand high-temperature coolants and can withstand pressure of several atmospheres inside the pipeline.
The disadvantage of PPR pipes is that they are sold straight, and to create systems of complex configurations, a pipe with a certain bend is often needed, which has to be done manually.
However experienced craftsmen repairs often involve bending pipes, and this does not cause problems with deformation or loss of strength.
During construction complex system heating systems, it is necessary to create structures of complex configurations.
Let's say in apartment buildings, where each room has a separate riser and one radiator, the system is very simple. One pipe goes from the riser to the radiator, the second - back. Sometimes they are connected by a third. In this case, there is no point in bending. It’s enough to put the right ones connecting elements in the amount of 4 - 6 pieces.
Things are different in a private house, where heating has to be installed from scratch, starting from the boiler and pipes taken out from basements upstairs, to all rooms. Sometimes it is difficult in this case to build a straight-line system that will be devoid of turns and changes in the height of laying pipes. It is possible to install two different pipes at all bend points, connected by a special coupling, but this is labor-intensive, costly and less efficient.
Another large area of application for bent polypropylene pipes is the underfloor heating system. The fact is that the pipes in this case are laid according to a pre-planned pattern, reminiscent in shape of a tubular electric heater washing machine or “coil” in the bathroom.
Quite often when carrying out construction work when the owner produces major renovation with his own hands, appears before him whole line problems that have to be solved by using available tools. For example, it is very often necessary to give a plastic product a curved shape. Of course, you can go to the store and buy it already ready product, but the search for a suitable product can take a long time, so we will try to figure out how to bend plexiglass, plastic, polycarbonate (i.e. plastic) at home.
The very name “plastic” unites a huge range of synthetic or natural polymers that can easily deform and change their shape when heated. Accordingly, after the material hardens, it becomes solid again. It is this property of plastics that we will use when answering the question about the possibility of bending plexiglass or plastic.
There are several ways to bend a sheet of organic glass. Let's consider two: using an industrial hair dryer or soldering iron. In the first case, the part of the glass that needs to be deformed is carefully heated with a hairdryer to a plastic state. The remaining part is covered with dampened rags to avoid heating. All that remains is to bend the canvas to the desired position and wait until the material hardens.
Another method, with a soldering iron, is convenient when you need to bend a sheet at an angle of 90 degrees or sharper. First, we outline the line of the future fold with a pencil, after which, after heating the soldering iron, we run it along the mark several times, achieving heating and melting of the material. Using a soldering iron tip you will need to “remove” about a third of the thickness of the sheet, after which we bend the glass under the right angle and fix it until it cools completely.
Bend the plastic
Very often when carrying out renovations in an apartment or country house needs to be bent plastic part. For example, give the baseboards a curved shape. Today it is very fashionable to have in the house curved ceilings, and plastics are often used as a material for ceiling plinths. How to bend ceiling plinth? If the radius of curvature of the material is large, then you can try to warm up such a baseboard using the same industrial hair dryer. This must be done extremely carefully, because, for example, a foam baseboard can easily melt. Be sure to practice on a small piece of baseboard before you begin.
Calculating the minimum bending radius of plastic is simple: you need to multiply the thickness of the plastic by 230. That is, if the plastic has a thickness of 5 mm, then the minimum bending radius will be 1,150 mm.
Bend polycarbonate
Polycarbonate sheets are often used to make canopies, canopies, and greenhouses. This material has excellent strength and flexibility. Bending polycarbonate is not difficult. There is no need to heat the material for this. You just need to check with the seller for what minimum bending radius the purchased polycarbonate is designed for. Well, take into account the obvious - that the thicker the material, the more difficult it is to deform.
Bend, but don't bow to difficulties! And then you will succeed!
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Well, gentlemen, novice finishers or home craftsmen, you still don’t know how to bend or fix bent components for building plastic * (cladding PVC plastic)? Then you will definitely like this material! After all, only here they will teach you how to lay plastic corner, L-shaped profile or F-shaped profile for arches and tiles, and indeed for any surface. BUT! Initially, the material was conceived to help those people who are still conducting Finishing work using plastic or partially dismantling it, during which waves bend or appear on the corner, F-shaped profile, and especially at the start or as it is also called the L-shaped profile.
So that everyone understands what we are talking about, I am attaching this photo.
I’ll tell you a little further about how to bend a plastic corner, and also along an arch, but now I’d like to talk about how to align this corner, L or F shaped plastic profile subjected to any deformation, not particularly critical!
I'll start with a small example.
The toilet was lined with plastic, it was necessary to get a long PVC panel clamped on both sides by the start (L-shaped profile). The plastic was on the front side, the toilet was standing flush against each other, and there was no other way to pull it out without additionally dismantling the entire right wall. Which is what I didn’t want to do. In general, using a heroic force, the plastic jumped out of the starting panel, bending it and making nicks and waves in it. It looked very ugly and it didn’t occur to me how to fix it without replacing the panel. Well, maybe cut out the place of deformation, at a loss of aesthetics! umnyestroiteli.ru
This is still a decent picture, because with fright most They leveled it with their hands, before that it was simply disgusting. So. What we did.
As it happens with a Russian person: - Laziness gives rise to ingenuity. I didn’t want to go to the store, and I didn’t want to spend money on getting started either! Yes, and going through the entire right side of the node is not a “vein”. Taking an ordinary home hair dryer and turning it on to the third maximum speed, I brought it to the bent starting plastic.
And then a miracle happened. The waves formed on the L-shaped profile at the time of dismantling simply leveled out and the launch itself even seemed to hug the plastic panel a little. Yes, here’s the actual result, the still hot result in the photo below.
As you can see, all the deformation on the component has practically disappeared and everything doesn’t look so sad anymore. After further manipulations everything became even better!
As for the internal and external plastic corners, F-shaped profile, their deformation is corrected in the same way, using a hair dryer.
And now, actually, how to bend a plastic corner onto an arch, and for any decoration in principle.
How to bend a plastic corner: along an arch, tile, or any surface!
We are already savvy and know for sure that we will need a hairdryer for this. On many construction sites I advise you to bend plastic corners using a hair dryer. But in the previous example, we were perfectly convinced that an ordinary household hair dryer with three speeds would be suitable. This is due to the fact that the plastic corner itself is made of thin PVC * and begins to bend, taking into account the fact that it is not fixed and nothing presses on it, even from direct rays of the sun. You should have seen this in construction stores With large windows into which the light enters. They sell corners there that are so wavy that the parrots can rest. And this is a direct violation of storage plastic products! So.
Bend a plastic corner along an arch is as easy as shelling pears. You will need to run it along the arch and at the moment of greatest tension, simply heat it slightly in the place we need, until the stress on the bend is completely removed, so that the corner can move further along the arch without any problems. As a rule, these are three places in which the plastic corner will need to be bent. This takes into account the fact that at home you have an ordinary, not a figured arch.
Well, let's look at these places in the picture below.
As you can see, in a regular arch there are three potential zones where you have to bend the plastic corner. But that is not all. You may encounter such a problem that you will have to use a hair dryer around the entire perimeter of the arch. Don't worry, this is normal. Heat the corner with a hairdryer not too much, the main thing is to lay it around the entire perimeter without white kinks. And then once you glue it, only then will you go through it one more time to eliminate minor or major defects. The corner will definitely fit around the perimeter as it should.
Bending a plastic corner on a semi-arch is also very simple, even easier than on a regular arch. Since she only has TWO places where she needs to bend it!
More complex arches, in my opinion, are not framed with a plastic corner, since there are special panels and slats for this. Well, finally, something interesting.
The material “How to bend a plastic corner” was sent by our regular reader and expanded by the administration of the site Construction from A to Z. Enakievo-Donetsk *.
http://www.umnyestroiteli.ru
Hello colleagues. I needed to bend a piece of plastic and this is how I solved the problem. From a piece laminated chipboard I cut out a small table top and legs. On the underside of the tabletop I attached a twelve-volt power supply, a terminal block and a pair of hooks for winding a wire with a plug. I screwed a piece from the end onto 3 self-tapping screws P-shaped aluminum profile.
As a heating element I used nichrome wire from a broken hair dryer. The working area (the length of the heated area) turned out to be 43 cm. It was easy to assemble this structure; it was more difficult to correctly install the nichrome thread.
The requirements were:
1 It was necessary to take into account that the wire will lengthen when heated and shrink when cooled. At the same time, it must be constantly tense.
2 The material that will hold the wire in a horizontal position must be heat-resistant and non-conductive.
3 The distance from the wire to the heated part must be adjusted in height.
The issues were resolved this way. I cleaned several PCB plates and glued them together with epoxy. As you know, PCB can withstand quite high temperatures. To adjust the height, I cut a thread directly in the material and tightened long bolts with a slot on the head. I went through a bunch of springs and found 2 suitable ones - short and not very tight. The wire tension turned out to be optimal.
The selection of the power supply was carried out using a scientific method - thirty and forty-watt blocks did not heat the wire, seventy-watt and hundred-watt blocks were heated to red-hot. I tried everything in order (there was such an opportunity) and settled on a 60 W unit. At length nichrome wire 43 - 48 cm, it gave the optimal result. 12-volt units have one negative feature - if there is no load when switched on, they can instantly fail. This means that if the wire breaks during operation, the block may burn out. Therefore, the wire had to be wound onto the bolts, avoiding sharp bends. It itself is very fragile and breaks easily.
