Suspended ceiling plastic panels by hand. Installation instructions for plastic ceiling panels. Classification of plastic ceiling panels

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly mounted and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, plaid, with flowers and floral elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this diversity, the ceiling of plastic panels are usually made uniform. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight shade, such as "baked milk", ecru, ivory, etc.

According to the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with glitter inserts. But since the ceiling of plastic panels is almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - small, as a rule, sizes make you choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, the reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - when frosted ceiling it is necessary to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that there is no place for plastic in the house. Maybe, but plastic is almost everywhere. They even pack goods into it, we have many products in the kitchen and in the bathroom also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What is nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag dipped in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are really hygienic. Evidence can be considered the fact that the sanitary station allows them to decorate medical institutions.

There are plastic mirror panels or with mirror parts - stripes

The second point that stops many is the flammability of plastics. They really are on fire. They begin to maintain a flame at a temperature of + 360 ° C. For comparison: and fiberboard, start to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house, and you have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to equip a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with a toilet. And to prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a pair of ventilation grilles into the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still leaky and with sufficient air exchange, no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They differ in rigidity and weight: mechanical strength is unimportant on the ceiling, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can even crush them with two fingers. Is it possible to mount Wall panels to the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is unclaimed. In addition, they are heavier, because the load on the frame will be slightly increased (if any) and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the dimensions of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material appearance which resembles a lining: the same stripes, only made of plastic. The ceiling of such panels is also called slatted because the surface is very similar in appearance.

An almost flat, crack-free surface, with hardly distinguishable joints, is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost imperceptible: the front surface is flat and smooth, and on the sides there is a spike and a groove, as on a conventional lining, with which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with it and it is used little: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are trimmed, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from rails.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include the ease of care for them: almost any contamination is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - it depends on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When buying PVC rails, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with the help of which the ends and joints are formed. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and on how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a false ceiling or attach plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, a suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without chasing the walls. On the other hand, it "eats" some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is if the lamps are installed ordinary, and not built-in. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main one by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except for furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then the illumination should be enough.

Assembling the frame

On device false ceiling assemble the frame from the guides. Most often, profiles are used to work with drywall. If you are doing the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms, this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden bars of 30 * 30 mm or a larger section.

They nail the planks or profiles first along the perimeter, putting them all in level. Then, on standard suspensions (there are two types) or wooden bars, intermediate guides are fixed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as those installed earlier (it’s easier to do if you pull the threads between those already installed and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indent, just to lay a corrugated hose - 3 mi, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled with linings - pieces of plywood, wedges made of wood, etc. In this case, the framework looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin the installation of plastic panels. It begins with the installation of the start profile. In the case of a ceiling, a ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to the profile or bar fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are cut at an angle of exactly 45 °. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to gaps. Against the background of a white ceiling and white profiles (or colored ones, it doesn't matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly exactly along the length of the wall or with a light - 1 mm - spacing.

The cut off bar can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. Ceiling molding is better - to glue (on liquid nails). So the joint turns out to be perfect: when gluing, you press the bar tightly, screwing onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it twists forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, a thin strip of glue is applied in a zigzag pattern. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can take 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along the entire length and torn off. There should be glue on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then apply it in place. To be sure that the bar is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even bar and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has finally set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved. After 8-12 hours, the adhesive will harden and it will be possible to continue the installation.

If, during gluing, “liquid nails” squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until completely dry, then pry with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it with liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin the installation of the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already mounted skirting boards to another, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut panels of this length. You do not need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not become in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel enters the previously installed molding from three sides. She is placed with a spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the trim profile is made of soft plastic, the top part (mounting shelf) will flex, making installation difficult. To make the deflection smaller, this edge can be grabbed with self-tapping screws. So it will be easier to insert the bar, otherwise you have to correct it with a spatula, setting the panel in place. It should go into the baseboard or starting profile exactly along the entire length. The inserted strip is fixed to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For fastening to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you mount it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

The setting of subsequent bands is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it enters the plinth by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled, lifting the middle with the hand and eliminating the deflection, tap on the edge with the palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make it sit tight. Below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means the strip has become normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports installed panel so that it does not fall out while you fasten it to the screws (staples). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by sticking small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. So collect all the panels.

During installation, do not forget to cut holes for installing fixtures. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring nozzle, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you have a good command of the tool and you can do round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole conventional drill with a thin drill ... how? Watch in the video. There are a couple more good tips in there.

Having installed a strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done right away, then problems may arise: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. And if you put the last strip on glue? Have to break. Therefore, we install and check the performance immediately.

Installing the last panel

Most of the difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be cut. Measure the actual distance from one side of the ceiling and from the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or difficult about this. And then there are two options:

• The cut strip is simply inserted into the pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. With sufficient panel width, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip in this way. Otherwise, you won't put it in. And so it has to be carefully corrected with something thin (steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After a few attempts, it still works out ... But besides the difficulties with installation, there is another drawback here: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (it sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
• The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the distance measured earlier on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then it is glued in its pure form on “liquid nails”. Only glue is applied not to the strip, but to all guides. And the one along the wall, and on the perpendicular laying (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in stock - just in case.

Installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost completed. It remains to install the last plastic plinth. On it, the mounting plate is first cut off: leave only the plinth. After it, you also cut it at the corners at 45 °, try it on, cut it off exactly. After trying it “dry” again and making sure that the size is correct, the plinth is smeared with glue, only both shelves are already: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will be glued to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is completed. But sometimes one more operation is necessary: ​​covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not needed if you bought high-quality panels that have perfect geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly, there is no need for correction: there are no sags that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, and also the junction of the plastic plinth with the ceiling. Often there are so many gaps that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Fill the gaps in small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all unnecessary and leveling the seam. Acrylic levels well until it sets, which is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared a piece, corrected it. If everything is ok, move on. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient with your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having smeared a piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty evenly cut off with a sharp corner of the spatula, then wipe everything with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you will not wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the gaps that have appeared, rub it, remove the excess and wash off the smeared. This, the second time, is usually the final one. After drying and this layer, stains remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp clean sponge and then gently rub soft cloth to shine. Now the ceiling of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the fixtures, the repair can be considered completed.

How to mount to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already flat and does not need to be leveled, plastic panels can be mounted directly on it. The order of work is the same: first, the starting profile, then cut-to-size strips are inserted into it, fixing at least every 50 cm.

Choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. Carnations or staples from a stapler can be beaten into a tree. It is more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws will not work, and you will be tormented by drilling a hole for the dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum indent from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its minus is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-separable and it will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Lamps in the ceiling made of plastic panels

It's not about design or quantity - here everyone is determined by himself, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps for 220 V or with a step-down transformer for 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate machine with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of luminaires for 220 V

If you install lamps for 220 V, and put even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the case. Due to the fact that the lamp is heated, its body also becomes very hot. From the heated case, the plastic darkens and warps over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some kind of flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working in 220 V lighting. It is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection in the bathroom: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp housing is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. The second point: for the most part, they are rather bulky, since the case is usually ceramic. Just hanging it on plastic will not work: mortgages will be needed. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in those places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since this type of lamp requires only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower here. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the shield after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. Lamps work normally even at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to put a transformer outside the bathroom for added safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is rather big. Then it will have to be transferred to the bathroom and hidden behind a false ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes a transformer is put on each lamp. This is normal, it just costs more, but with a large distance between the lamps it is justified.

• familiar stranger
• Preparation of the base ceiling
• Lathing device
• Installation of plastic panels

Until recently, there were not so many ways to finish the ceiling. Whitewash, paint with water-based emulsion. The daredevils still dared to glue the ceiling with wallpaper - that's all. And today there are suspended, stretch, mirror, stained glass ceilings, etc.

Ceiling sheathing with plastic panels is the simplest, most economical and fast way finishes.

To date, one of the most popular, especially among those who like to do everything around the house with their own hands, has become a plastic ceiling. Such popularity is due to the fact that making a plastic ceiling is quite simple, especially for those who have had to deal with suspended ceilings, and it will cost only a little more than a plasterboard ceiling.

familiar stranger

Strictly speaking, a plastic ceiling is a suspended ceiling.

It is attached to the main ceiling with the help of special suspensions on a metal profile frame or wooden slats. Only the material for panels instead of drywall is polyvinyl chloride, one of the safest and most harmless types of plastic. Suffice it to say that in addition to wall and ceiling panels, food containers are made from PVC.

Such a ceiling is easy to do with your own hands, giving it an attractive appearance. It won't be visible panel seams, besides, it will serve you much longer than the drywall counterpart, and it requires the most minimal personal care - from time to time to remove dust from the plastic. This is easy to do with a damp cloth, as plastic is absolutely not afraid of water.

When choosing panels, it is important not to confuse and not buy wall panels instead of ceiling panels. Although they are made of the same material, they differ significantly. Wall panels are much heavier than ceiling panels, which makes a huge difference.

Related article: Choosing a sofa in the living room: some recommendations

If you mount such panels on the ceiling, you will get a significant load on its frame. And this is fraught: one fine day, the frame may simply not withstand, and the ceiling will collapse. And if you install ceiling panels on a wall, they deform over time, since their mechanical strength is much lower.

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Preparation of the base ceiling

Types of plastic panels.

Making such a plastic ceiling with your own hands is no more difficult than a regular plasterboard suspended ceiling. Installation of any false ceiling, incl. and plastic, you should start with the preparation of the base ceiling. Its surface must be thoroughly cleaned of exfoliated lime or plaster and treated with an antifungal solution.

Then you need to take care of the electrical wiring passing through the ceiling. Indeed, in most cases, lamps and chandeliers will be mounted on the ceiling. Before mounting the ceiling, you need to fix the wires and at least bring them to the switch. Wires must be securely insulated. Jokes with electricity are dangerous, so if you do not have enough experience in this matter, then it is better to seek help from a specialist.

To self-mount plastic ceiling you will need the tools:

Scheme of fixing PVC panels.

• puncher or electric drill with a drill bit;
• hacksaw for metal;
• construction knife;
• roulette;
• square;
• rebound paint cord;
• water level;
• screwdriver

From the materials do not forget to purchase:

• antifungal solution;
• suspensions;
• dowels (be sure to take the same diameter with a drill with which you will drill holes);
• plastic panels;
• ceiling profiles;
• self-tapping screws.

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Lathing device

Installation of plastic ceilings.

The frame for a plastic ceiling can be made from both wooden slats and a metal guide profile. Still, the second option is preferable, since the metal is less susceptible to changing its dimensions under the influence of temperature and humidity.

You need to decide in advance how far you will lower the panels. At the same time, you need to take into account the depth of your lamps - mainly from 5 to 10 cm. Having decided on the height, you need to install and fix the profile guides strictly horizontally. Here it is better not to rush and double-check everything several times. Otherwise, rushing and setting the wrong profile, you will not leave yourself any other choice but to make the ceiling oblique, which will immediately catch your eye.

Related article: How to defrost plastic plumbing

From the base ceiling at the corners of one of the walls, the required distance is measured down. It is important that the marked marks are at the same level, so be sure to check their location using a water level. Then these two marks are connected with a cord into one horizontal line.

Taking the measured horizontal as a guideline, you need to draw the same lines around the entire perimeter of the room, checking them with a level. This will be the horizontal plane to make the ceiling even.

The next step in the installation will be the installation of metal guide profiles along the marked border. The profiles are attached directly to the wall by drilling holes in it with a puncher or drill, using plastic dowels and galvanized self-tapping screws for fastening.

In order not to disturb the horizontal when attaching the profiles, the end of the unattached profile fits into the end of the attached one, then its other end is laid strictly according to the markup, and the profile is attached to the wall along its entire length.

Having finished installing the profile on the walls, you need to install the profile on the ceiling itself. To do this, on the ceiling along the direction of installation of the ceiling profile, you need to fix straight suspensions in increments of 50-60 cm. The suspensions must be fixed strictly along a straight line, breaking it off with a paint cord. Ceiling profiles are attached to these suspensions, and guide profiles fixed on the walls are laid at the ends. With this false ceiling design, there is no danger that one day it will fall on your head.

Plastic finishing panels are a material that differs from analogues by a combination of low cost, ease of installation and good visual characteristics. The popularity of this material is constantly growing, as is the range plastic products. On the market you can find a variety of panels - plain and multi-colored, striped, plaid, with various patterns and images.

However, if we are talking about panels for the ceiling, then the most popular are the details of light shades. The surface of the parts can be glossy or matte, rough or partially shiny, which is achieved through small inserts. Since plastic panels are most often used in small spaces, the choice usually falls on glossy products - they create the illusion of a raised ceiling, as a result of which the room seems more spacious than it really is. In addition, shiny panels reflect light, which allows you to save a little on the power of lighting fixtures.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic

There are two polar opinions about whether plastic can be used in a residential building. Some claim that given material poses a risk to human health and violates right conditions living in the house. Others consider plastic completely harmless and quite suitable for residential use. Before making a plastic ceiling, it is worth examining all the qualities of the material used.

Understanding this issue in more detail, then all opinions “against” plastic do not stand up to criticism. In particular, it is immediately worth remembering that a huge number of plastic products are used in everyday life - and they are used not only in industrial sectors, but also in medicine and the food industry. Various plastic items in large numbers are found in bathrooms, kitchens and living areas, where plastic is present in almost every household appliance. One of the advantages is that you can make a suspended ceiling with your own hands from PVC panels, since this work is not difficult.

Plastic itself is a monolithic material without any cracks, gaps and pores. This quality suggests that it does not create favorable conditions for the development of bacteria and other microorganisms. Of course, in the presence of a nutrient medium, bacteria can multiply on the surface of the plastic - but in this case, you can get rid of them with an ordinary rag soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant. An indirect sign of the bacteriological safety of plastic products is the fact that they are approved for use in medical institutions.

The second argument of opponents of plastic parts is high flammability. At first glance, it may seem that this is justified - plastic begins to actively burn at temperatures above +360 degrees. But even this argument, upon a detailed study of the issue, cannot be called a lack of plastic - for example, wood fiber boards light up at a temperature of +250 degrees, i.e. their ignition threshold is much lower. In addition, an open flame is dangerous not only in itself, but also because of the smoke that is released in the process - and in this indicator, plastic outperforms its closest competitors, releasing 50% less smoke when burned.

The last imaginary drawback of plastic products is complete tightness. And this factor can also be ignored - the ceiling design is rarely completely airtight, so there will still be minimal air exchange. Both in private houses and in apartments, the issue of ventilation is solved very simply - one grate is built into the opposite edges of the ceiling, each of which gives the ceiling the ability to "breathe". In addition, when mounting a suspended plastic ceiling in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and kitchens), ventilation will have to be done, regardless of the material used to make the ceiling and the type of housing.

Classification of plastic ceiling panels

There are two main varieties of PVC panels:

• Ceiling, which have reduced weight and strength, since high mechanical strength is irrelevant for the ceiling;
• Wall, stronger and more rigid products that are more expensive and not designed for use on the ceiling (of course, they can be installed, but this is simply not practical).

Ceiling panels can vary in size and surface type:

• Rack products - visually they resemble ordinary lining, i.e. these are just strips, only made of plastic;
• Seamless panels, which represent an almost solid surface with almost imperceptible joints (the elements are connected to each other by means of a lateral tongue and groove joint);
• Sheet ceiling plastic is a rather rare and difficult to process material that is best suited for finishing columns or other non-linear surfaces (it is practically not used in domestic construction).

Before you assemble the ceiling from plastic panels, you need to choose the best option for specific conditions. Regardless of the type of panels, they are all easy to wet clean and are of good quality. Good panels can last up to 10 years - and here we are only talking about visual characteristics, and the full service life can be an order of magnitude longer.

Ceiling made of plastic panels

Installation of ceiling panels can be carried out according to two concepts:

• Suspended ceiling, which is equipped as separate construction;
• Standard plastic ceiling, in which all elements are attached directly to the main ceiling surface.

Regardless of the chosen scheme, when installing plastic on the ceiling, you need to use moldings. These elements are finishing profiles that are necessary to mask the ends and joints of the structure. The choice of the type and size of moldings directly depends on the configuration of the future ceiling and the characteristics of the room.

Suspended ceiling

Suspended ceiling structures - this is a fairly popular way to finish the ceiling, which has a number of characteristic advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of such structures is the absence of the need to prepare a strobe for laying communications - and this is essential, because thanks to this, the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling is significantly simplified.

On the other hand, a suspended plastic ceiling always takes away part of the free volume of the room. In the most successful scenario, such a ceiling will lower the level of the room by 3 cm - but this is only subject to the installation of conventional lighting fixtures. To install recessed lights, the ceiling will have to be placed at a distance of about 10 cm from the main level. The only way to reduce this distance is to use LED lamps, which, with sufficient quantity and power, can replace traditional lighting.

Frame installation

Before you make a suspended ceiling from panels, you need to assemble a frame for it:

• The main structural element will be guides, which are most often used as standard profiles for mounting drywall sheets. In dry rooms, you can successfully use a regular ceiling profile made of plastic panels, and for rooms with high humidity, it is best to take galvanized products. However, you can take a completely different path and make a frame of wooden bars with a section of 30x30 mm or more.
• Profile elements are fixed along the perimeter of the room in compliance with the level. Further, with the help of suspensions or bars in increments of 50-60 cm, intermediate guides are attached. All guides for the ceiling of plastic panels must be strictly level. To align the intermediate elements, it is worth pulling the threads between the parts of the perimeter and focus on them.
• If the suspended structure is located at a minimum distance from the main one, then the strips can be attached directly to the ceiling surface. To adjust the level in this case, you can use various linings made of pieces of wood or plywood. It is necessary to calculate the structure so that a corrugation 3 cm thick can pass under it.

Setting up the starting strips

After assembling the frame, you can start installing the starting profiles:

1. To work, you need to take a ceiling molding. It is attached to the frame elements located around the perimeter of the room. The edges of the moldings must be cut so that the angle is exactly 45 degrees. The length also needs to be calculated and measured very accurately - even a minimal deviation will lead to noticeable gaps. Of course, small gaps can be masked with putty, but it would be much better to cut the parts in advance so that they fall into place with a little space.
2. To fix the bar, you can use adhesive or self-tapping screws. Moldings are recommended to be glued with liquid nails - in this case, a perfect joint is obtained. When using other fasteners, the bar will turn forward a little.
3. The edge directed towards the wall is covered with a zigzag strip of glue. The wall must be degreased before joining. The plank is mounted in its place, pressed tightly along the entire length and removed, after which glue remains on the wall surface. When it dries a little (about 5 minutes), you can finally install the bar, be sure to check it for alignment - until the glue has completely hardened, it can be corrected.
4. When three profiles are glued, you need to leave them until the glue has completely hardened, which usually takes from 8 to 12 hours. Then you can continue with the installation. During the installation process, liquid nails can squeeze out, and you should not remove them immediately - they will be smeared on the wall and ceiling details. You need to wait until the glue dries completely and carefully cut off the excess with a sharp knife.

Fixing plastic panels

When the previous work is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels:

1. When mounting a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands, you first need to determine the length of the panels. To do this, you need to measure the distance between the joints of the skirting boards and add about 1.5 cm to it. You do not need to cut the parts in accordance with the length or width of the room - in this case they will not go into the profile. With ideal room geometry, you can cut a lot of parts, but this is rarely the case, so it is best to prepare the panels as they are attached.
2. The first panel comes with three edges into the molding. You need to install the panel with the spike forward so that it connects to the bar. When using soft finishing profiles, the mounting shelf can bend and create certain difficulties. To get rid of this phenomenon, you can slightly fix this edge with self-tapping screws. You can also use a spatula, filling the edge of the panel with it. Important point- the panel should immediately go into the profile along the entire length. Mounted elements are immediately attached to the rails using self-tapping screws or construction stapler if the frame was assembled from wooden elements.
3. Further installation of a plastic suspended ceiling looks exactly the same for each individual panel. First, one edge of the strip is inserted into the molding by 6-7 mm, then the other is inserted. The mounted bar is leveled and carefully driven in so that the lock fits into the groove. To check how well the strip is installed, you need to look at it from below - if there is no noticeable gap at the junction, then everything is in order.
4. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic panels on the ceiling with your own hands is best done with an assistant - he can hold the mounted panel until it is fixed with self-tapping screws. It is more difficult to cope with this work alone, but there is a way out - to eliminate the deflection of the bar on the profile, you can stick small pieces of double-sided tape.
5. When mounting suspended ceilings from plastic panels with your own hands, you need to remember that it is necessary to cut holes for lamps in each panel - and for this you need to know in advance exactly where they will be installed. For cutting, you can use any suitable tool - for example, a drill with an annular nozzle. You need to insert fixtures, connect and check them immediately - after the ceiling is fully assembled, this work simply will not work.

Before you make a false ceiling made of plastic, you need to carefully understand the described technology and follow it during installation. However, at this stage, the installation of the structure does not end.

Mounting the last panel

At the stage of installation of the last plastic part a lot of problems arise. All these problems are related to the size and features of the fastening of this element. However, everything is simple with dimensions - the bar is cut in accordance with the actual dimensions of the ceiling in its current form.

Further events can develop according to two scenarios:

1. The trimmed panel is inserted into the glued starter profile or ceiling plinth for plastic panels. To make this possible, the panel must be cut so that it is 5-7 mm shorter than the existing gap - otherwise it cannot be installed. This option for attaching the last strip has a significant drawback - it ends up being shorter than necessary. Over time, the strip will sink a little into the molding, and a small gap will appear on the ceiling between the last and previous strip.
2. The strip can not only be inserted, but also glued. In this case, when cutting, you must observe the actual dimensions of the gap between the frame and the penultimate panel. The technology of gluing the strip looks exactly the same as with all other panels. The disadvantage of this method is that last panel it turns out to be non-removable, and if necessary, it will have to be broken to get to the inside of the ceiling.

When all the panels are mounted, it remains to install only the last plinth. A mounting plate is cut off from it and corners are cut (necessarily at 45 degrees). After making sure that the plinth is cut correctly, it can be smeared with glue on both sides, and installed in its place.

Sealing with acrylic

With how to make a plastic ceiling, everything is clear - but there is one more step that needs to be completed in the vast majority of cases. We are talking about sealing the seams of the structure with white acrylic. Using quality panels with the correct geometry, you will not need to adjust the design.

The technology for filling joints is quite simple:

1. You need to take acrylic sealant and fill it with a mounting gun. Using a gun, you need to carefully close up all the gaps, joints between the panels, plinth and ceiling, as well as corner sections. As a rule, there are a lot of noticeable gaps in the structure, so it’s worth taking a good walk around the entire perimeter of the ceiling.
2. You need to fill the gaps in small sections of about 30-40 cm. All excess must be removed during the sealing process, and the seam must be leveled. Acrylic has a very high curing speed, so it must be corrected immediately upon application. To remove excess acrylic, you can use a soft cloth or just your finger. The hardening excess is cut off with the sharp edge of a spatula, after which everything is rubbed with a damp sponge and left to dry completely for 8-12 hours.
3. Acrylic, when solidified, may decrease in volume, being drawn into the cavity of the seam. In this case, it is recommended to walk around the entire perimeter of the structure again. As a rule, two passes are enough to fully seal the entire ceiling. The stains remaining on the surface of the ceiling are wiped first with a damp sponge, and then the panels are polished with a soft cloth.

Fixing plastic panels to the main ceiling

If there is no need to level the main ceiling, then you can attach plastic panels directly to it. The sequence of work in this case completely coincides with the technology described above: first of all, the starting profile is mounted, panels adjusted to the dimensions are mounted in it, which are attached in increments of no more than 50 cm.

The selection of fasteners in this case directly depends on the material from which the ceiling is made:

• For wooden structures, small nails or staples of a construction stapler are quite suitable;
• In the case of concrete, it would be best to assemble the frame and install it at a minimum distance from the ceiling, because self-tapping screws will not go into such an overlap, and drilling individual holes for dowels is too troublesome and impractical;
• Liquid nails also remain relevant, but when using them, you need to take into account the fact that the design will eventually turn out to be non-separable.

Before you make a plastic ceiling, you need to select all the elements in advance and purchase them in the required quantity.

Lamps in the plastic ceiling

The selection of the number of lamps and their design is a purely individual matter, so it is pointless to discuss it. Much more important is the choice of the type of lamps and the features of their power supply. For plastic ceilings, 220 V lamps are suitable, represented by incandescent or economical lamps, and lamps with a 12 V step-down transformer - halogen and LED products.

Luminaires powered by a 220 V network and represented by incandescent lamps with a power of more than 40 W must be installed in a thermally insulated housing. It's all about heating the lamp during operation, because of which the plastic can darken and deform over time. So that the increase in temperature does not affect the plastic, and thermal insulation is used.

You also need to pay attention to the safety rules when using a 220 V network. When installing a lamp in a bathroom or kitchen, it must be protected from direct water ingress. Of course, devices with such a degree of protection are more expensive, and the dimensions of such lamps are quite large. For the installation of moisture-resistant lamps, it will be necessary to install mortgages when installing the ceiling frame.

With halogen and LED lamps, the situation is somewhat simpler, since they work from 12 V, and the electrical safety rules in this case are not so strict. When using such fixtures, power is supplied through an automatic machine, which must be installed regardless of the type and characteristics of lighting fixtures, to the transformer, and from it directly to the fixtures.

One transformer provides power to 4 lamps, but the length of the wire between the lamp and the transformer should be no more than 2 m. This rule is primarily due to the stability and characteristics of the supplied voltage - an increase in the length of the wire leads to a significant decrease in the intensity of illumination. When installing in the bathroom, this can become a serious problem - the transformer will have to be hidden somehow.

Conclusion

A plastic ceiling is a rather convenient, attractive and profitable solution. The visual characteristics of this design are quite good and suitable for many styles, and the ease of installation allows you to assemble a plastic ceiling even in the absence of relevant experience.

For finishing and ennobling the walls and ceilings of bathrooms and kitchens, it was mainly used tile, paint, whitewash, washable wallpaper. Or the simultaneous use of two or three of the above coatings was proposed.

But for about 15 years, plastic plates made of polyvinyl chloride have been used for these purposes, which have become very popular. Plastic plates have many positive qualities:

1. Relatively easy installation, which even a non-professional can do alone. The main thing is to be able to manage well with conventional and power tools.
2. Fast installation. Ceiling lining can be done in a few hours.
3. Color decision. Now on sale you can find plates of classic and completely unthinkable colors. This will help you find what you're looking for.
4. Exterior finish plates. The arsenal of plastic coating is diverse. There are wood colors different breeds, mirror coating. Panels are matte, shiny, glossy.
5. Relatively inexpensive when compared with conventional types of coating (for example, with tiles).
6. Easily processed. Cut with a knife or scissors.
7. Helps to reliably mask wiring, pipes or surface irregularities.

Characteristics of PVC boards

1. Width: 25-50 cm.
2. Thickness: 5-10 mm.
3. Length: 2.7-3.0 m or 6 m.

Polyvinyl chloride as a cladding material:

• strong enough - it is difficult to break it with your hands;
• very plastic; not afraid of water;
• does not darken in the sun;
• does not conduct sound;
• clean environmentally;
• has some thermal insulation due to air channels inside;
• some species can withstand temperatures of 70-80 degrees;
• easy to clean;
• has no smell.

Newfangled LED lamps can be directly mounted on PVC panels.

Of the negative qualities, the fragility and combustibility of the material stand out.

With a large bend, it breaks, and with an accidental impact, a dent may appear on it.

Selection of panels and calculation of the amount of material

For a room with a height of 2.70 m and above, you can choose panels of any color, but it is better to take pastel, neutral colors. For a low room you need to take light colors or mirror tiles. They give a visual effect of increasing volume.

Advice: Do not confuse ceiling and wall panels.

This is the mistake of many individuals who carry out repairs on their own. It's better to ask the seller. IN last resort, it is useful to know that ceiling tiles weigh less than wall tiles.

• Calculation of PVC plates, crossbeams and skirting boards

Calculating the number of panels is easy. It is enough to divide the area of ​​​​the entire ceiling of the room being repaired (the product of the length of the room by its width) by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone PVC plate. Then add another 15-20% needed for embedding different kind gaps.

For example, you are renovating a bathroom. A riser is installed in it, and passes under the ceiling horizontal pipe. For this option, which is not uncommon in old buildings, a special calculation is needed and 15-20% of the surplus will come in handy.

Advice: Place panels parallel front door.

At the same time, if you start installation from the far wall, then each subsequent plate will hide the seam, which will allow you to get the effect of an almost seamless coating.

To calculate the length of the crossbars (metal profiles or wooden slats), it is necessary to draw a ceiling plan, reduced proportionally.

The main metal profiles (or rails) should be perpendicular to the front door. Between them, a gap of 50-60 cm should be maintained. According to the drawing, we determine the number of crossbars, taking into account 4 pieces of rigid profiles fixed around the perimeter of the room.

Ceiling plinth is much easier to calculate. We measure the perimeter with a tape measure and buy required amount, taking into account the length of one strip of plinth - 3 m.

If the ceiling needs to be lowered, then the number of U-shaped mounting plates must also be calculated.

For example:

The room measures 2.6 x 2.4 m and the door is on the long side.

You have chosen slabs 3.0x0.3 m.

To calculate this option, you can not divide the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slabs and the ceiling, because the length of the slab overlaps the length of the room. It is only necessary to calculate how many PVC strips will fit in the width of the room.

2.4 / 0.3 = 8 lanes.

The drawing of the room might look like this:

Option 1 - strengthening the profiles directly on the ceiling of the room;

Option 2 - the crossbars are fixed to the U-shaped mounts (shown as squares).

It can be seen from the first figure that there are only 8 profiles (counting 4 along the perimeter).

To strengthen them on the ceiling and on the walls, you will need 16 dowels (two for each). Self-tapping screws are calculated based on the number of strips and profiles. PVC panels are fixed on each cross member with two self-tapping screws.

We got 8 stripes, 4 crossbars. Lateral can not be considered. The panels are simply inserted into a special groove against the wall. We expect:

8x4x2 \u003d 64 self-tapping screws + 36 for stock (for good measure) \u003d 100 pieces.

In the second figure, 2 dowels are needed for each U-shaped fastening and for side profiles on the walls

For fastenings: 8x2 = 16.

On the sidewalls: 4x2 = 8.

Total - 24 dowels.

To strengthen the strips, it is necessary, as in the first version, 64 self-tapping screws. But besides this, 16 more self-tapping screws are needed to fix the profiles on the U-shaped plates - two for each.

Panels and types of plastic profiles

The bands themselves are hollow and divided into sections. Because of this, they weigh so little. Vertical stiffeners add strength to PVC sheets.

But panels can only be fixed on a plane. Upon reaching the wall, if no action is taken, a gap will remain. To eliminate this problem, there are PVC profiles. They come in different types, but the following options for plastic profiles are most quoted and used:

1. Starting. Mounted on the walls (perimeter) for sealing the ends of the coating.
2. F profile. Closes the ends on the protruding corners. For example, in some shared bathrooms, the toilet bowl is separated from the bathtub by a wall. This profile will close the corners when moving from one part of such a bathroom to another.
3. H - profile. Serves for docking of two panels (building).
4. Plastic outer corner. It is applied at elimination of cracks, both on internal, and on external corners.
5. Plinth ceiling. Serves for decoration and for sealing the ends, like the starting one.
6. Universal PVC corner. To eliminate cracks in the corners. It's just glued on.

Preparation for installation and marking

First you need to clean the surface of the old ceiling from plaster and chips. After all, crumbling elements, such as whitewash, putty, can damage the new surface or add pressure to the plates. It is necessary to carefully prime the old ceiling.

When lowering the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account the standard sizes of the lighting fixtures used, the presence of various kinds of communications (pipes), protrusions (beams), hidden wiring or irregularities. Only after taking into account these values ​​determine the lowest point of the ceiling. From it, the marking of the planes and the frame begins.

1. We attach a ruler to the found point, lower it to the required distance and put a mark.
2. We draw on the walls (along the perimeter, starting from the mark) a working line indicating the level of the frame plastic surface. This operation is performed with twine (cord) painted with colored chalk. You can use a homemade water level or
3. purchased - laser.

1. Next, we mark the places of the supporting guides located on the walls. They should be fixed on the walls perpendicular to the front door. Then, when installing PVC strips, the seams will not be noticeable.
2. Then we draw lines (retreating by 40-60 cm) for the remaining profiles or, if the ceiling level is to be significantly lowered, for U-shaped elements.

After that, we proceed to the design of the frame and the strengthening of the panels.

We mount a false ceiling from plastic panels

We start by fixing the support rails. We install one profile along the drawn line and drill a wall through it in two or three places, preparing holes for dowels.

To connect the lamps (if there are several), it is desirable that the profiles are 1-1.5 cm from the ceiling, in extreme cases, it is necessary to cut holes in them.

Having strengthened all four support rails on the walls, we proceed to installation auxiliary profiles. If it is planned to lower the ceiling, then ceiling U-shaped fasteners must be installed on its surface.

They are installed on one or two dowels or on anchors with wedges (depending on the design) after 50-80 cm and slightly bent from the ceiling. It is impossible to bend completely - they will interfere with the installation of profiles.

An additional profile at a certain angle is inserted at one end into the main guide. Then we bring the other end into the opposite profile, align it along the drawn line or along the U-shaped plates and fasten it with self-tapping screws first to the wall guides, and then to the fasteners on the ceiling.

Jumpers can either not be installed at all or mounted only in places where weights are fixed (chandeliers, etc.).

Thus, having strengthened all metal profiles, they lay wires (lighting and power cables). For reliable insulation and fire safety, they are pulled through a rubber or PVC hose. Loops (15 cm) are lowered at the attachment points of future lighting elements.

Plate installation

Advice: Before installation work, remove the film from the PVC elements, if any, otherwise you will have to tear it off along with the finished ceiling.

Let's get to the main part of the work. Previously, the strips must be cut to a value equal to the length of the room minus 5-10 mm. This is necessary to ensure easy and quick installation. The installation process itself is performed as follows:

1. Either a U-shaped profile or a ceiling plinth with the same groove is screwed to the main guides with self-tapping screws. On the side walls, you can strengthen the PVC corner universal or starting profile.
2. A strip of polyvinyl chloride is inserted into a U-shaped PVC element. Many people cut off the latch, believing that it will not fit snugly in the PVC profile. But this is a delusion.
3. Strengthen the other side of the first PVC plate with self-tapping screws with an enlarged head or with the help of special home-made fasteners cut from tin. These fasteners hold the strip with their tongue, which has a clearly larger area than the head of any self-tapping screw and will not interfere with the next strip.

They are fixed as follows:

• insert the tongue into the groove of the PVC strip;
• press the element together with the panel to the guide;
• fix.

Advice: While pressing, it makes sense to pre-drill the wings of the self-made element and the guide with a thin (2-2.5 mm) drill. Then the self-tapping screw will easily screw in.

If you used wooden laths for lathing, then the wings of a home-made fastener are screwed to both sides of it. If you have plasterboard profiles available, then you can either screw the fasteners to the sidewalls or simply bend the protruding parts of the wings and press them firmly against the plane of the sides of the guide with pliers.

The counterpart of the second is inserted (along the length) into the open groove of the first strip. Moreover, the corners of the second strip are first inserted, so that one of them enters the lock of the first plate, and the second into the side PVC profile. Then, with light pressure, they lead into the groove and the entire strip, so that its second end enters the PVC element (starter or corner) located on the opposite side wall.

You must act carefully otherwise you risk breaking off the part of the lock clamped by screws or fasteners.

If the strips are closed unevenly, then a thin bar, a wooden ruler or a piece of the counterpart of the same PVC panel should be inserted into the locking groove of the last strip. By moving this part along the groove, gently tapping with a hammer, or wooden block carefully drive the strip until it stops.

If, according to the plan, it is supposed to strengthen the lamp (spotlight) on the strip, then the hole for it can be cut out with any cutting tool immediately after installation. Just be careful not to overdo it. Then the wires are brought out into the hole and the lamps are connected, although this can be done later.

You can also perform this operation on the floor before installation. First, attach the panel to the ceiling, mark the holes, lower it to the floor, cut through, and then fix it. But it takes too much time.

• Installation of the last PVC panel

This is worth talking about in particular. In the manner described above, all longitudinal elements are strengthened except for the last one.

Some inexperienced craftsmen, to facilitate installation, offer to glue it with liquid nails. But "the game is not worth the candle." To do this, you need to cut the last fragment of the ceiling very evenly. But due to the design of the panel, this is very difficult to do.

When cutting with a ruler or rail, even with a slight pressure, the plastic bends, and the knife wags to the sides. It is very difficult to get a good cut. Therefore, you need to cut from the side of the U-profile. But in this case, a noticeable seam between the panels is obtained. After all, there are inconsistent castle and reciprocal part nearby.

Therefore, it is better to carry out the installation in the usual way. Let's talk about it separately. This process is confusing to many. After all, you must simultaneously insert the strip into four grooves:

• penultimate panel lock;
• slot in the U-shaped profile;
• two grooves on the side walls.

Oddly enough, but there are no difficulties. First you need to prepare the PVC element for installation. It is necessary to set the width of the future fragment of the ceiling. This can be done with a ruler, which is inserted into the U-shaped profile on the wall perpendicular to it and the divisions are counted to the penultimate strip. This will be the width of the last fragment.

Some people will ask a reasonable question that we did not take into account the groove width (5 mm) of the penultimate pvc element, and the last fragment of our ceiling will hang out. But this is precisely the “trick”, especially since you did this process once or several times at home when you inserted the glass into bookshelf or in a sideboard.

The depth of the U-shaped profile on the wall is 1 cm, and the depth of the lock is 5 mm. Therefore, if you insert the last fragment into the profile, and then pull it out by snapping it into the lock, then the whole structure will be assembled properly.

There is a second question. What about side slots? The answer is simple. To do this, we cut the strips. It is necessary to slightly bend the last strip in an arc and insert it into one of the side grooves until it stops. Then gradually slide it along the entire length into the U-profile.

1. Attach construction tape to the strip in two places. By pulling it, you can pull out the panel and lock it in the lock. Just try to pull parallel to the surface of the ceiling, otherwise the tape will simply break.

1. Before installing the last fragment, wrap two thin tapes of dense material over the edge. After sliding the panel into the P-element, pull the ribbons. The force of friction and a tight connection will not let them jump out immediately, and the strip will go forward. When it snaps into place, slightly bend the edge of the U-profile with a screwdriver or knife and the tape will come out. Worst case, just cut it off.

At the end of the work, install skirting boards or other decorative-hiding elements. Clean the ceiling from adhering chips, dirt, fingerprints. Connect and insert fixtures into the holes if you did not do this during installation. This completes the installation of the ceiling made of pvc panels.

Improving the appearance of the ceiling is simple. With all the variety of modern finishing materials, there are many ways to change the interior of the room. One of them is the installation of a ceiling made of pvc panels. It is not surprising that the question of how to make a suspended ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands is heard more and more often.

This type of finish immediately gives the room unusual view and it can be attributed to the class "Euro-repair", with relatively small cash costs and without loss of quality of work.

Benefits of using plastic products

Those who installed a suspended ceiling made of PVC panels on their own note such distinctive features How:

• Durability;
• Good plasticity and sound insulation;
• Protection against fading in the sun and moisture;
• Easy to clean;
• Environmentally friendly;
• Effectively hides uneven ceilings;
• Allows you to discreetly place the wiring under the lighting elements.

Cons of PVC ceilings

1. Despite the fact that PVC panels, which are used to finish the false ceiling, resist well high temperatures(up to 400°C), they, like all plastic materials, may burn. And when ignited, toxic gas is released. Therefore, for safety reasons, the power of pendant and recessed luminaires should be limited to suspended structures and also avoid places with open sources of fire.
2. The material itself, from which the cladding panels are made, is plastic, which cannot withstand mechanical stress, such as hitting with a hammer. After that, the panels simply crack and lose their appearance.
3. If on the ceiling, which is planned to finish plastic elements, direct sunlight, it is recommended to abandon this venture. Under the influence of direct sunlight, plastic panels burn out and acquire an unpleasant yellow tint. And the colored elements just fade in the sun over time.
4. Some homeowners refuse to finish the ceilings with PVC panels due to the fact that the premises take on a non-residential office look. But this can rather be attributed to the category of psychological perception. And here is a matter of taste.

We calculate the necessary material

Before starting work in which the ceiling will be mounted from pvc panels, you need to know how much and what kind of material may be needed when working.

PVC panels

In order to correctly purchase the right amount of material, you need to know them dimensions. As a rule, they are indicated on the packaging. Panels are available:

Thickness - from 5 to 10 mm,

Width - 25 - 30 cm,

The length of the canvas is 2.7 - 3 meters.

When calculating the number of PVC panels, the surface area of ​​the ceiling must be divided by the area of ​​​​one panel (it is written on the package). 10-15% is added for unforeseen expenses, after which you can purchase material for lining the ceiling.

Metallic profile

It is more difficult to determine the number of profiles for the installation of a false ceiling.

It is best to take a sheet of paper and reflect a large-scale copy of the ceiling on it. Parallel corners are drawn on the sheet in increments of 60 cm. The required profile volume for the entire room is calculated. It is also necessary to take into account the need for more rigid profiles that are mounted around the entire perimeter of the ceiling. Similarly, the number of screws and dowels is calculated.

Ceiling plinth

They are framed by the entire ceiling around the entire perimeter of the room. Knowing the perimeter, it is necessary to divide by 3 (the length of one segment). We get the required number of plinth strips. Do not forget about unforeseen expenses of 10-15%.

Required tool

In the process of self-finishing PVC ceiling panels, you can not do without the following tools:

• screwdriver or low-speed drill;
• bubble 2-meter level;
• miter box;
• hacksaw;
• metal scissors;
• "liquid Nails";
• rag.

Be sure to have plastic dowels and screws for them to fasten the mounting elements. A frame is assembled with a screwdriver. PVC panels can be directly fastened to the frame itself either with screws with a press washer, or with metal clips designed for this type of fastening work.

Ceiling preparation

Before the beginning installation work, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the ceiling. Everything that crumbles or falls off the surface (plaster, old whitewash, etc.) is carefully cleaned. Then the surface of the ceiling is recommended to be primed.

After preparatory work, start marking the frame around the perimeter. A solid line is marked with a pencil around the room on the walls. It will serve as a guide for the installation of suspended elements.

This distance must take into account the space under concealed wiring room lighting elements - at least 2 cm. The lowest place is selected on the surface of the ceiling and a line is drawn along the walls at a 2-meter level. Also, all lines are transferred to other walls according to the level. The laser level is optimal for this stage of work.

Important! The estimated level of the suspended ceiling can be drawn with a string of twine, liberally smeared with chalk.

Then start marking supporting structures frame. They are located perpendicular to the PVC panels (60 cm apart).

Types of crates

1st type: plastic crate

The material for the manufacture of a U-shaped profile or plinth is high-quality plastic. After the lower border is drawn on the walls, it is attached to the walls along this line. When mounting in the corners, use a hacksaw.

The profile is fixed every 25-30 cm.

2nd type: frame made of wooden beams

A wooden beam is used as a frame. With dowels and impact screws, the beam is attached to the ceiling every 60 cm. To level it in one level, wooden linings are used between the beam and the ceiling.

3rd type: frame made of metal elements

The most common type of crate for false ceilings. U-shaped metal components are mounted to the floor surface every 60-80 cm using anchors that are able to take heavy loads on suspended structures.

In places where heavy elements are supposed to be fixed (such as a chandelier), between load-bearing elements frame additional jumpers are installed.

Phased installation of the frame

We are approaching the description of the phased installation of a suspended ceiling made of PVC panels.

1st stage

Places for attaching profiles are marked on the walls. In order for the false ceiling line to be horizontal, a level is used. Then, a profile is installed along the perimeter of the ceiling, so that there are no cracks and gaps between the wall and the profile.

2nd stage

Installation of transverse profiles.

3rd stage

We take the profile "L" and fasten it around the perimeter of the room.

If it is planned to place additional lighting in a false ceiling, electrical wiring is done.

4th stage

Products from PVC panels are being prepared. Laying the first panel is carried out in the corner to the transverse U-shaped profiles. Subsequent panels are inserted into the groove of the previous one and fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

Experienced craftsmen know how to make a ceiling from pvc panels. With a knife or a hacksaw, the latch is cut around the entire edge of the first panel. The material is easy to cut.

In order for the panels to fit snugly together, they are hammered to the stop during installation.

Attention! Ready-made strips of PVC panels should not be bent with great effort during operation. Plates can break!

5th stage

The last panel is installed. At this stage, special care and patience is required, as cutting to width will most likely be required. Carefully, so as not to break, the panel is inserted into the bar of the opposite wall.

Alternatively, the PVC strip is turned over with the lock facing the opposite direction and cut from the side of the groove.

Screws secure the last element.

6th stage

fastened ceiling plinth with liquid nails. Glue is applied to the baseboard and pressed against the ceiling for a few seconds. Remains of glue are removed with a rag.

Attention! Ceiling plinth can be successfully attached to both the wall and the ceiling.

If the plinth is collapsible, installation takes place by simply snapping the opposite part. The cracks are covered with sealants.

Completion of works

In the designated places in the PVC panels, holes are made for the installation of lighting devices. Then the lamps themselves and equipment for them are installed.

If the installation of fixtures is carried out for the bathroom, it is better to use light elements with low voltage (a current converter is needed). So you can protect yourself and your neighbors from above from electric shock in case of flooding.

PVC plates installed as a false ceiling in the kitchen can be perfectly cleaned from soot and grease with conventional detergents.

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Conclusion

So, now we can say with confidence that making a ceiling from pvc panels with your own hands is also possible for people without experience in installing suspended ceilings.