Application of plastic for interior decoration premises is becoming widespread. It is used for both walls and ceilings. will solve many problems associated with the quality of the ceiling.
Plastic panels have excellent performance characteristics and attractive appearance.
Plastic panels have many positive qualities. They are quite technologically advanced and beautiful. From a huge assortment you can always choose what you like. Suspended ceiling made of plastic with your own hands - it’s convenient, fast and practical.
Features of material selection
The suspended ceiling can be made from different materials(wood, chipboard, foam, etc.). One of the most common designs is a suspended ceiling made of plastic. Such a surface has a number of advantages: ease of installation, light weight, wide range of colors, low cost. The most important - plastic ceiling has high moisture resistance. It can be easily washed with water. Plastic does not deform due to changes in humidity and temperature.
The most optimal material for plastic ceilings is polyvinyl chloride. It can be used in the form of tiles or panels. Long PVC panels are most widely used. They are made in two types - seamless and embossed. Seamless panels have a continuous flat surface, and smooth edges allow you to seamlessly join the panels together.
In a relief panel, the edge on one side ends with a groove, and the other edge has a longitudinal tenon. When joining the panels, the tenon fits into the groove, and an even rectangular groove is formed along the joint.
The panel is made in the form of two layers of plastic, between which stiffening ribs are formed, which provides sufficient mechanical strength. The front surface of the panel is polished (varnished). Standard PVC panels are sold in widths of 25 cm and lengths of 2.7 or 3 m.
Return to contents
Choosing a ceiling design
A plastic ceiling can have two main designs - suspended and suspended. Stretch plastic ceilings are made from vinyl film. During installation of such a ceiling, the film must be heated to 70º, which requires the use of special heat guns. Installation suspended ceilings, as a rule, are produced by professionals.
For installing a plastic ceiling with your own hands, a suspended structure made of PVC panels is most suitable. A suspended ceiling is a horizontal surface formed from a glossy layer of PVC panels, installed on metal frame. In this case, the frame is fixed to the wall and ceiling, at a certain distance from the surface of the ceiling.
The frame is a firmly connected mounting structure in the form of a lattice. The frame is made from metal profiles. The frame is attached to the wall using a U-shaped guide profile. Typically, a profile of type PN 28x27, 28 mm wide and 27 mm high, is used. The main one is the ceiling profile, which has a C-shape. The profile type PS60x27 is used. A lattice frame structure is created from this profile.
The frame is attached to the ceiling using hangers, which secure the profiles to the ceiling. For cross-shaped connection of profiles, a “crab” fastening is used. The ceiling profiles are connected to each other using a U-shaped connector with a length of 30-40 mm.
At PVC installation The panels are connected along the length using a plastic joining profile (H-shaped molding). In addition, when completing the installation of plastic, they can be used to hide the initial gaps. plastic skirting boards, starting profiles, cornice profiles, corners (external and internal), clamps.
Return to contents
Preparatory work
After installing the suspended ceiling, the main ceiling will be hidden from prying eyes, so no increased demands are placed on its surface. However, it must not be allowed to crumble, and most importantly, traces of mold or mildew remain on it after flooding. The surface of the ceiling should be primed and plastered so that there are no cracks or chips left on it. Areas with mold must first be treated with an antiseptic, for example, a solution of copper sulfate.
Return to contents
Surface marking
Important preparatory stage, which affects the quality of the entire suspended ceiling, is the marking. First, the true height of the main ceiling at different points in the room is clarified. To do this, the height of the wall is measured with a tape measure at at least three points - in the corners and in the center. In the corner with the lowest wall height, a mark is made at the height of the frame profile suspension, that is, at a distance of 5-10 cm from the ceiling. The distance is determined by the need for communications.
If it is planned to install built-in (spot) lamps or run pipes along the ceiling, then this distance is 8-10 cm; if nothing extra is planned, then 5-6 cm is enough. Then a mark is made on the wall in another corner, but taking into account the actual height of the wall. The suspended ceiling should be parallel to the floor. A straight line is struck through the marks in the corners using a well-stretched and pre-painted construction cord. The opposite wall is marked in the same way. The lines are connected to each other by marking other walls. Thus, a line is drawn along the entire perimeter of the room - it is the lower boundary of the frame guide profile.
Marking of ceiling profiles is carried out on the ceiling surface. To do this, first, parallel lines are broken off in the longitudinal direction with a cord. The first and last lines are drawn at a distance of 15-20 cm from the wall. Parallel lines are drawn between them in increments of 30-40 cm. Lines are marked in the transverse direction in the same way. A grid must be applied to the ceiling, which indicates the location of the center line of the ceiling profiles. The installation of hangers is marked along these lines. The first marks are made at a distance of 25-30 cm from each wall, and all subsequent marks are made in increments of 50-60 cm. The marks should not coincide with the crosshairs of the lines - they must be offset by at least 5 cm from the crosshairs.
Return to contents
Installation of the guide profile
Installation of the suspended ceiling frame begins with the installation of a U-shaped profile on the wall along the marking line. First, holes are drilled at the base of the profiles for fastening to the wall: the first at a distance of 10-15 cm from the edge, the subsequent ones at 30-40 cm from each other. Then it is applied to the wall and marks are made on it. Using the marks, holes with a diameter of 8 mm are made in the wall using a hammer drill or electric drill. Plastic dowels are inserted into the holes. The PN profile is attached to dowels with screws. In this way, guides are installed around the entire perimeter of the room. The horizontal installation should be checked with a level.
Return to contents
Installation of ceiling profiles and installation of communications
First, profiles are installed that are directed along the short wall. These profiles should extend from wall to wall. If you can't select a profile required length, then it is joined from two segments. The connection must be reliable and rigid - using a U-shaped standard fastener or a metal strip. Installation of PS profiles is carried out in accordance with the markings on the ceiling. The ends are attached inside a guide profile fixed to the wall. The profiles are positioned bottom down. PS profiles in the perpendicular direction are mounted from segments, the length of which is equal to the distance between the installed PS profiles. They are attached using a “crab” fastening.
The PS profiles are secured to the ceiling using hangers. The suspensions bend, forming U-shape. The height of the side rack must strictly correspond to the distance from the ceiling to the PS profile. The suspension platform is fastened with screws into dowels on the main ceiling in the marked places. The suspension legs are attached to the sides of the profile with self-tapping screws.
Before attaching the plastic panels, it is necessary to place the entire communication system inside the frame (if necessary). First of all, this concerns electrical wires– for a chandelier or a system of spotlights. The wires must be collected in a bundle and placed inside a corrugated hose. Wiring is carried out to the mounting location of the lighting equipment. The wires are carefully attached to the frame profiles.
For finishing and upgrading the walls and ceilings of bathrooms and kitchens, it was mainly used tile, paint, whitewash, washable wallpaper. Or the simultaneous use of two or three of the above coatings was proposed.
But for about 15 years, plastic plates made of polyvinyl chloride have been used for these purposes, which have become very popular. Plastic plates have many positive qualities:
- Relatively easy installation that even a non-professional can do alone. The main thing is to be able to handle conventional and power tools well.
- Fast installation. Ceiling cladding can be completed in a few hours.
- Color solution. Nowadays you can find slabs of classic and completely unimaginable colors on sale. This will help you find what you were aiming for.
- External finishing of slabs. The arsenal of plastic coatings is varied. There are wood colors different breeds, mirror coating. The panels are matte, shiny, glossy.
- Relatively inexpensive when compared with conventional types of coating (for example, tiles).
- Easy to process. Cut with a knife or scissors.
- Helps reliably disguise wiring, pipes or surface irregularities.
Characteristics of PVC plates
- Width: 25-50 cm.
- Thickness: 5-10 mm.
- Length: 2.7-3.0 m or 6 m.
Polyvinyl chloride as a covering material:
- strong enough - it is difficult to tear it apart with your hands;
- very plastic; not afraid of water;
- does not darken in the sun;
- does not conduct sound;
- environmentally friendly;
- has some thermal insulation due to air channels inside;
- some species can withstand temperatures of 70-80 degrees;
- easy to clean;
- has no smell.
Newfangled LED lamps can be directly mounted on PVC panels.
Negative qualities include the fragility and flammability of the material.
If it is bent too much, it will break, and if there is an accidental impact, a dent may appear on it.
Selecting panels and calculating the amount of material
For a room with a height of 2.70 m and above, you can choose panels of any color, but it is better to choose pastel, neutral colors. For a low room you need to take light colors or mirror plates. They give a visual effect of increasing volume.
Advice: Do not confuse ceiling and wall panels.
This is a mistake made by many individuals who carry out repairs themselves. It's better to ask the seller. IN as a last resort, it is useful to know that ceiling tiles weigh less than wall tiles.
- Calculation of PVC plates, crossbars and plinths
It is easy to calculate the number of panels. It is enough to divide the area of the entire ceiling of the room being repaired (the product of the length of the room by its width) by the area of one PVC slab. Then add another 15-20% necessary for sealing various kinds ruptures.
For example, let's say you are renovating a bathroom. It has a riser installed, and under the ceiling there is a horizontal pipe. For this option, which is not uncommon in old buildings, a special calculation is required and 15-20% of the excess will come in handy.
Advice: Place the panels parallel front door.
Moreover, if you start installation from the far wall, then each subsequent slab will hide the seam, which will allow you to get the effect of an almost seamless coating.
To calculate the length of the crossbars (metal profiles or wooden slats), it is necessary to draw a plan diagram of the ceiling, reduced proportionally.
The main metal profiles (or slats) should be positioned perpendicular to the entrance door. A gap of 50-60 cm should be maintained between them. Based on the drawing, we determine the number of crossbars, taking into account 4 pieces of rigid profiles fixed around the perimeter of the room.
Ceiling plinth is much easier to calculate. We measure the perimeter with a tape measure and buy the required quantity, taking into account the length of one strip of plinth - 3 m.
If the ceiling needs to be lowered, then the number of U-shaped mounting plates must also be calculated.
For example:
The room measures 2.6 x 2.4 m and the door is on the long side.
You have chosen slabs 3.0x0.3 m.
To calculate this option, you don’t have to divide the area of the slabs and ceiling, because the length of the slab covers the length of the room. You just need to calculate how many PVC strips will fit in the width of the room.
2.4 / 0.3 = 8 stripes.
A room drawing might look like this:
Option 1 – strengthening the profiles directly on the ceiling of the room;
Option 2 – the crossbars are secured to U-shaped fasteners (depicted as squares).
From the first picture it can be seen that there are only 8 profiles (including 4 along the perimeter).
To strengthen them on the ceiling and walls you will need 16 dowels (two for each). Self-tapping screws are calculated based on the number of strips and profiles. PVC panels are secured to each crossbar with two self-tapping screws.
We got 8 stripes, 4 crossbars. The side ones can be ignored. The panels are simply inserted into a special groove near the wall. We calculate:
8x4x2 = 64 screws + 36 for reserve (for good measure) = 100 pieces.
In the second picture, 2 dowels are needed for each U-shaped fastening and for the side profiles on the walls
For fastenings: 8x2 = 16.
On the sides: 4x2 = 8.
Total - 24 dowels.
To strengthen the strips, it is necessary, as in the first option, 64 self-tapping screws. But besides this, you need 16 more screws to secure the profiles to the U-shaped plates - two for each.
Panels and types of plastic profiles
The strips themselves are hollow and divided into sections. This is why they weigh so little. Vertical stiffening ribs add strength to PVC sheets.
But the panels can only be fixed on a plane. When you reach the wall, if no measures are taken, a gap will remain. To eliminate this problem, there are PVC profiles. They are different types, but the following options for plastic profiles are most quoted and used:
- Starting. Attached to walls (perimeter) to seal the ends of the coating.
- F-profile. Seals ends at protruding corners. For example, in some combined bathrooms, the toilet is separated from the bathtub by a wall. This profile will close the corners when moving from one part of such a bathroom to another.
- N – profile. Serves for joining two panels (extension).
- Plastic outer corner. It is used to eliminate cracks, both on internal and external corners.
- Ceiling plinth. Used for decoration and for sealing ends, just like the starter.
- Universal PVC corner. To eliminate cracks in corners. It's just glued on.
Preparation for installation and marking
First you need to clean the surface of the old ceiling from plaster and chips. After all, crumbling elements, such as whitewash or putty, can damage the new surface or add pressure to the slabs. It is necessary to carefully prime the old ceiling.
When lowering the ceiling, you need to take into account the standard sizes of the lighting fixtures used, the presence of various types of communications (pipes), projections (beams), hidden wiring or irregularities. Only after taking these values into account is the lowest point of the ceiling determined. From there they begin marking the planes and frame.
- We attach a ruler to the found point, lower it to the required distance and put a mark.
- We draw a working line on the walls (along the perimeter, starting from the mark), indicating the level of the frame plastic surface. This operation is performed with twine (cord) painted with colored chalk. You can use a homemade water level or
- purchased - laser.
- Next, we mark the locations of the support guides located on the walls. They should be mounted on walls perpendicular to the front door. Then, when installing PVC strips, the seams will not be noticeable.
- Then we draw lines (retreating by 40-60 cm) for the remaining profiles or, if the ceiling level is to be significantly lowered, for the U-shaped elements.
After this, we move on to constructing the frame and strengthening the panels.
We install a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels
We start by securing the support guides. We install one profile along the drawn line and drill the wall through it in two or three places, preparing holes for dowels.
To connect lamps (if there are several of them), it is desirable that the profiles are 1-1.5 cm away from the ceiling; in extreme cases, it is necessary to cut holes in them.
Having secured all four support guides to the walls, we proceed to installation auxiliary profiles. If the ceiling is to be lowered, then U-shaped ceiling fasteners must be installed on its surface.
They are installed on one or two dowels or on anchors with wedges (depending on the design) every 50-80 cm and bent slightly from the ceiling. You cannot bend them completely - they will interfere with the installation of profiles.
We insert the additional profile at a certain angle with one end into the main guide. Then we insert the other end into the profile opposite, align it along the drawn line or along the U-shaped plates and screw it with self-tapping screws, first to the wall guides, and then to the fasteners on the ceiling.
Jumpers can either not be installed at all or mounted only in places where heavy objects are secured (chandeliers, etc.).
Having thus strengthened everything metal profiles carry out laying of wires (lighting and power cables). For reliable insulation and fire safety they are pulled through a rubber or PVC hose. At the attachment points of future lighting elements, hinges (15 cm) are lowered.
Installation of slabs
Advice: Before installation work, remove the film, if any, from the PVC elements, otherwise you will have to tear it off along with the finished ceiling.
Let's get down to the main part of the work. The strips must first be cut to an amount equal to the length of the room minus 5-10 mm. This is necessary to ensure easy and quick installation. The installation process itself goes like this:
- Either a U-shaped profile or a ceiling plinth with the same groove is screwed to the main guides with self-tapping screws. You can attach a universal PVC corner or a starter profile to the side walls.
- A strip of polyvinyl chloride is inserted into a U-shaped PVC element. Many people cut off the latch, thinking that it will not fit tightly into the PVC profile. But this is a misconception.
- Strengthen the other side of the first PVC plate with self-tapping screws with an enlarged head or using special homemade fasteners cut from tin. These fasteners hold the strip with their tongue, which has a clearly larger area than the head of any screw and will not interfere with the next strip.
They are fixed as follows:
- insert the tongue into the groove of the PVC strip;
- press the element together with the panel against the guide;
- secure.
Advice: When pressing, it makes sense to pre-drill the wings with a thin (2-2.5 mm) drill homemade element and guide. Then the screw will screw in easily.
If you used wooden slats for the sheathing, then the wings of a homemade fastener are screwed to both sides. If you have plasterboard profiles, then you can either screw the fasteners to the sidewalls or simply bend the protruding parts of the wings and press them tightly against the plane of the sides of the guide with pliers.
The mating part of the second strip is inserted (along its length) into the open groove of the first strip. Moreover, first insert the corners of the second strip, so that one of them fits into the lock of the first plate, and the second into the PVC side profile. Next, with light pressure, insert the entire strip into the groove, so that its second end fits into the PVC element (starter or corner) located on the opposite side wall.
You must act carefully, otherwise you risk breaking off part of the lock clamped by screws or fasteners.
If the strips are closed unevenly, then you should insert a thin block, a wooden ruler or a piece of the mating part of the same PVC panel into the locking groove of the last strip. Move this part along the groove by gently tapping with a hammer, or wooden block Gently drive the strip in until it stops.
If according to the plan it is planned to strengthen a lamp (spot) on the strip, then the hole for it can be cut in any way cutting tool immediately after installation. You just need to cut carefully so as not to overdo it. Next, the wires are brought out into the hole and the lamps are connected, although this can be done later.
You can also perform this operation on the floor before installation. First, attach the panel to the ceiling, mark the holes, lower it to the floor, cut it, and then secure it. But this takes up extra time.
- Installation of the last PVC panel
This is worth talking about specifically. In the manner described above, all longitudinal elements except the last one are strengthened.
Some inexperienced craftsmen suggest gluing it to make installation easier. liquid nails. But “the game is not worth the candle.” To do this, you need to trim the last fragment of the ceiling very evenly. But due to the design of the panel, this is very difficult to do.
When cutting using a ruler or slat, even with light pressure, the plastic bends and the knife wiggles to the sides. It is very difficult to obtain a high-quality cut. Therefore, you need to cut from the P-profile side. But in this case there is a noticeable seam between the panels. After all, nearby there are incoherent lock and mate parts.
Therefore, it is better to perform installation in the usual way. Let's talk about him specifically. This process is confusing to many. After all, you need to simultaneously insert the strip into four grooves:
- penultimate panel lock;
- gap in the U-shaped profile;
- two grooves on the side walls.
Oddly enough, but there are no difficulties. First you need to prepare the PVC element for installation. It is necessary to set the width of the future ceiling fragment. This can be done with a ruler, which is inserted into the U-shaped profile on the wall perpendicular to it and the divisions are counted to the penultimate strip. This will be the width of the last fragment.
Some people will ask a reasonable question that we did not take into account the width of the groove (5 mm) of the penultimate PVC element, and the last fragment of our ceiling will dangle. But this is precisely the “trick”, especially since you have done this process one or several times at home when you inserted glass into bookshelf or to the sideboard.
The depth of the U-shaped profile on the wall is 1 cm, and the depth of the lock is 5 mm. Therefore, if you insert the last fragment into the profile and then pull it out, snapping it into the lock, then the entire structure will be assembled properly.
A second question arises. What about the side grooves? The answer is simple. This is why we cut the strips. It is necessary to slightly bend the last strip in an arc and insert it into one of the side grooves until it stops. Then gradually push it along its entire length into the U-profile.
- Attach construction tape to the strip in two places. By pulling it you can pull out the panel and lock it in the lock. Just try to pull it parallel to the surface of the ceiling, otherwise the tape will simply break off.
- Before installing the last fragment, wrap two thin strips of dense material over the edge. After sliding the panel into the P-element, pull the ribbons. The friction force and tight connection will not allow them to jump out immediately, and the strip will move forward. When it snaps into place, use a screwdriver or knife to slightly bend the edge of the U-profile and the tape will come out. As a last resort, just cut it off.
At the end of the work, install skirting boards or other decorative and hiding elements. Clean the ceiling from adhering chips, dirt, and fingerprints. Connect and insert the lamps into the holes if you did not do this during installation. This completes the installation of the ceiling from pvc panels finished.
Plastic ceiling panels are a good alternative plasterboard structures. Easy to install, durable to use, they perfectly mask defects in the ceiling surface and give the room an attractive appearance. Installation will not be difficult if you carefully study the technology.
Tools and materials for work
In order not to be distracted by searches while working, everything necessary tools and materials should be prepared in advance:
It is better to use a water level, so the marking will be done faster and with greater accuracy. A slatted frame can only be mounted in a dry room; it is better to mount an aluminum profile in a bathroom or kitchen. If the length of the ceiling is longer than the length of the panels, an additional H-shaped connector molding will be required. Its design allows you to securely fasten two adjacent panels and avoid sagging at the joints.
Calculation of the quantity of materials
When planning, it is very important to correctly calculate the quantity necessary materials. This will help avoid unnecessary costs and reduce waste after renovation. First you need to calculate the area of the ceiling by multiplying its length by its width. In the same way, determine the area of one panel, and then divide the ceiling area by the panel area and round the resulting value up.
Since panels will be cut during installation and there may not be enough material, it is recommended to increase the ceiling area by at least 10% when making calculations. If the ceiling surface has a complex configuration, it is better to add 15% for trimming. In addition to the panels, you will also need slats for the frame; to find out the total length of the slats, you need to divide the width of the ceiling by 0.3 and multiply by its length.
When attaching slats to the ceiling, dowels and screws are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other. The starting profile is attached every 0.5 m. Knowing the length of all the slats and the profile, it will not be difficult to calculate the number of fasteners. The total length of the UD profile is equal to the perimeter of the ceiling plus 10% for joints. The ceiling plinth should be the same length. The consumption of the primer mixture is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, so when purchasing you need to know the area of the ceiling.
An important point: when buying plastic panels, you should immediately check their integrity in the packaging and the absence of defective elements. It often happens that after printing a purchase at home, people discover defective, bent or broken panels, the replacement of which is very difficult to obtain free of charge.
Installation technology for plastic ceilings
The connection of the panels is quite tight, but not airtight, and therefore can penetrate through the seams tiny particles dust, lime and plaster from the ceiling surface. In addition, mold often appears on the ceiling, especially in the corners, and fungal spores also enter the room and are inhaled by people. To avoid such troubles, you need to prepare everything correctly.
There is no need to level the ceiling, but it is necessary to remove peeling whitewash or plaster. It is best to go over the ceiling with a brush with stiff bristles, and then wipe off dust with a damp cloth. Cracks and through holes or cement mortar. Finally, the ceiling is primed twice with a deep penetration antifungal compound.
Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings
Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings
Marking for the starting profile
In order for the ceiling to be level, the panels must be located in the same horizontal plane. To do this, precise markings are made along the perimeter of the walls for the starting profile. Depending on curvature work surface and the thickness of the wiring from the ceiling recedes downwards by 5-10 cm. Mark a point on the wall with a pencil and start marking the level from it. Marks are placed in each corner and in the middle of the walls, and then connected using bevels.
UD profile mounting
TO concrete walls the starting profile is secured with dowel nails or anchor bolts, having previously drilled holes along the marking line. TO wooden surface The frame is screwed with long self-tapping screws. The fastening step is 50 cm. The profile is applied to the markings, leveled horizontally and screwed. At the joints, as well as along the entire length, there should be no gaps between the wall and the profile.
Frame installation
The sheathing slats are arranged in parallel rows every 30-40 cm. First, straight lines are drawn, 30 cm away from one of the walls. Metal hangers are screwed to the ceiling along these lines in increments of 35-40 cm. A sheathing made of profiles or slats is mounted on the hangers, the ends of which are inserted into the starting profile around the perimeter, then the structure is checked by the building level. All elements must be strictly in the same plane; any unevenness and deviations from the horizontal will lead to deformation of the ceiling.
Laying electrical wiring
When the frame is securely fixed, installation begins. Carefully consider the location of cables, luminaire outlet points, ventilation ducts. Each system should be isolated from the rest as much as possible, and cables, hoses and wires should be neatly secured into bundles with plastic clamps. It is desirable that the wires are corrugated and firmly attached to the ceiling; sagging of wiring elements is unacceptable. Where the lighting device will be installed, the sheathing must be additionally reinforced with guides. At the end, they once again check the horizontality and strength of fastening of the sheathing, and the absence of parts protruding beyond the boundaries of the frame.
Prepare the L-shaped strip and the first panel: measure the distance between the walls and cut the plastic with a hacksaw. The ends of the outer planks are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. It should be taken into account that the panels are attached perpendicular to the guide profile. The L-shaped strip is installed first; it is secured with self-tapping screws to the slats located along the perimeter of the ceiling. Stand on the side where the trim will end; you don’t need to screw the strip on yet. Next, the first panel is inserted on one side into the profile, holding it in a horizontal position along its entire length.
If the ceilings have a large area, it is better to work with an assistant, since holding the panel suspended and at the same time attaching it to the sheathing is quite inconvenient. The free side edge of the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws to the supporting profile or slats. Thin plastic can be attached to wooden rails using construction stapler. Each subsequent panel is mounted in the same way, carefully inserting the ends into the L-shaped strips.
When using panels of short length, it is recommended to stagger the transverse seams. This will make the ceiling look more attractive. Each element is trimmed sequentially as soon as the previous one is secured. This helps reduce material consumption and more precise fit of joints.
When installing panels in places where electrical wiring exits, holes of the required diameter are pre-cut in the plastic. This can be done using a sharp stationery knife. The last strip is first adjusted to the width of the hole, then inserted into the L-shaped profile, and its edge is coated with glue and inserted into the ceiling. If you plan to use a ceiling plinth instead of a profile, the edge of the panel can be fixed with self-tapping screws - they will not be visible under the baguette.
When gluing the baguettes, you should very carefully apply them to the ceiling so as not to stain the plastic. If this happens, you must immediately wipe the glue with a clean cloth, because it is quite difficult to clean it after drying. At this point, the installation of the plastic ceiling is considered complete.
Prices for popular finishing wall panels
Wall panels
Video - DIY plastic ceiling
One of the simplest suspended ceilings to implement is a ceiling made of plastic panels. This type of ceiling is quite popular due to its functional and aesthetic qualities. Most often it is used in the bathroom or kitchen.
This type of ceiling has many advantages.
- Firstly, it is easy to install; anyone can make a ceiling from plastic panels with their own hands.
- Secondly, this type of ceiling does not require additional finishing, such as a plasterboard ceiling.
- Thirdly, since the ceiling made of plastic panels is a suspended structure, lamps and other communications can be installed in it.
- Fourthly, the plastic ceiling is easy to clean and suitable for use in rooms with high humidity, for example, a bathroom.
Let's now see how to make a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands. Structurally, this type of ceiling is a frame made of a plasterboard profile and plastic panels attached to it. Therefore, the work of installing a ceiling made of plastic panels can be divided into two stages: installation of the frame and installation of plastic panels.
Required materials and tools
To assemble the frame, you will need a guide and ceiling profile, straight hangers, dowel nails, and metal screws. Tools: drill or hammer drill, metal scissors, laser or construction level, screwdriver.
Installation of a frame for plastic panels
They start by marking the position of the ceiling made of plastic panels on the walls. At this stage, you should decide on the size of the gap between the base of the ceiling and the surface of the future ceiling.
This gap depends on the unevenness of the ceiling, as well as on what communications will be laid under the plastic ceiling, and what lamps will be installed in it. To make it easier to decide, we can say that to install an average spotlight you need 7-10 cm of sub-ceiling space. For laying wiring and installing a ceiling made of plastic panels, 3-5 cm is enough.
After the size of the gap is determined using a level, mark the position of the future ceiling. It is more convenient to use a laser level for these purposes.
Fig.1. Installation of guide profiles
The next stage is the installation of hangers. Suspensions are necessary for attaching the ceiling profile to the ceiling, thereby increasing its rigidity and strength.
The suspensions are placed at a distance of 60-70 cm relative to each other. Marking for hangers is carried out as follows. The installation locations of the ceiling profiles are determined.
They are located perpendicular to the plastic panels. For a ceiling made of plastic panels, given that they are much lighter than plasterboard, the profiles are located in increments of 60 cm to 1 m. Based on this, the locations of the profiles are noted and hangers are attached to the ceiling.
Fig.2. Installation of direct hangers
Difficulties may arise at this stage if you have a ceiling base concrete slab ceilings
The floor slabs are hollow and if the dowel-nail gets into the cavity, it will not hold. This problem can be solved using traditional dowels and self-tapping screws. Therefore, you should stock up on them in advance.
After installing the suspensions, you can begin installing the ceiling profiles. They are cut to the required length and inserted into the groove of the guide profile. Next, using metal screws, they are attached to the hangers.
Fig.3. Installation of ceiling profiles
Attaching ceiling profiles should be done with care and try not to bend them.
Otherwise, this may affect the evenness of the ceiling. It should also be noted that for rational use profiles, mainly for the purpose of using scraps, you can use a special connector for the profile. Thereby reducing costs by reducing the number of purchased profiles.
Fig.4. Profile extension
After the frame for the ceiling made of plastic panels has been assembled, you can begin installing the plastic panels.
But first you need to install the ceiling plinth. A special plinth is sold for plastic ceilings. It has provisions for plastic panels.
Installation of skirting boards
The plinth is attached to the three walls of the room using metal screws to the frame. It should be noted that the wall along which the plinth is not installed must be parallel to the direction of the position of the plastic panels, i.e. plastic panels will be mounted parallel to this wall.
Installation of plastic panels. Peculiarities
Now you can begin installing the plastic panels.
Installation begins from the wall opposite the one on which the baseboard is not installed. Installation is carried out as follows. Plastic panels are cut to the required length and inserted into the groove of the plinth, and on the other side plastic panel it is attached to the frame using metal screws.
Fig.5. Installation of plastic panels
The second and subsequent panels are attached in the same way, with the only exception that they are inserted not into the groove of the baseboard, but into the groove of the previous panel. After the installation of the plastic panels is completed, it is necessary to install the remaining baseboard. This skirting board has a groove cut off, this can be done with a knife and attached to the ceiling and walls using liquid nails.
The installation of plastic panels has two features that should be mentioned. Firstly, fastening the panels must be done very carefully.
It often happens that during installation the screwdriver breaks down, so it is very easy to damage the soft plastic panel. To avoid this, you must ensure that the position of the screwdriver is perpendicular to the ceiling. In addition, there is one more feature.
It is necessary to choose the right bit for the screw. The self-tapping screw placed on the bit must sit firmly on it, otherwise either the self-tapping screw is defective or the bit is not selected correctly. A loose fit of the self-tapping screw on the bit increases the chances of damaging the plastic panel.
Fig.6. Installation errors
Secondly, when installing plastic panels, you should not press hard on the panel from the side, this can lead to its bending and, as a consequence, the appearance of a gap between the panels. Considering that the curvature is not large, this defect usually appears on the last panels, i.e. small curvatures add up.
Fig.7. Gap between plastic panels
Fig.8.
That's all that can be said about the ceiling made of plastic panels and the installation of plastic panels.
The construction market is now replete with a wide variety of finishing materials.
Main advantages modern innovations is ease of use and reliability. However, this is not always about practicality in terms of price. In this matter, finishing materials made from PVC undoubtedly lead in terms of profitability.
PVC panels make it easy and simple to cover walls and ceilings in any room. At the same time, you don’t have to worry about the costly leveling of the base of the wall or worry about the exorbitant price installation work. Do the same suspended ceiling do it yourself using PVC panels will not be difficult, even without having many years of experience repair work.
What will you need?
So, now we will consider the option of installing a suspended ceiling using PVC panels as a finishing material. For this you will need minimum required tools, PVC panels and required mounting elements. More precisely, you will need the following tools:
- screwdriver or low-speed drill;
- roulette, bubble level, water level;
- hammer;
- miter box, hacksaw, construction knife.
The material used is PVC panels.
According to generally accepted standards, panels can be 25 and 50 cm wide. The main parameter when purchasing is the area of all elements in the package. When counting required quantity you should calculate the area of the room in which the suspended ceiling will be installed, and increase the resulting amount by 10-15%, taking into account the trimming of the material.
To secure the panels to the ceiling, use special fasteners and form a frame. The PVC panels themselves are quite fragile and soft, so for reliable fastening you will need a strong frame with frequent lathing.
Along the perimeter of the room, a U-shaped plastic profile is used, into which the edges of the panels will be inserted. As an alternative, you can choose a matching ceiling plinth for PVC panels, which is already equipped with a U-shaped groove. In high-quality design, such a plinth is a prefabricated structure in which the U-shaped groove is assembled in two parts to facilitate installation.
For the sheathing, you can use a wooden beam measuring 20x40 mm or a metal profile like for plasterboard. In the bathroom or kitchen, wooden beams are not suitable due to high humidity. However, thanks to more easy installation wooden beam and attaching the panels themselves to it, it can be used in the bedroom or living room.
The second parameter for selection is the price of the material; in this matter, you only need to check the availability and price in your region. When using wood in any form in construction, it must be treated with antiseptic impregnations and fire retardants before installation. The latter is necessary to increase the fire-resistant properties of wood.
PVC panels of various standards
In addition, there are plastic or aluminum profiles especially for PVC panels. If the cladding is carried out along the ceiling with small differences of up to 4-5 mm and with minimal lowering of the suspended ceiling, installation of PVC panels on the ceiling may be completely simple. The profiles are made with a special groove in the center for fastening to the base and for fastening the clips that will hold the sheathing panels.
For hardware, you will definitely need plastic dowels and nails-screws for them (another alternative would be anchors with a wedge for driving). They will attach frame elements and profiles along the perimeter to the walls and ceiling.
The frame itself is assembled using screws with a drill tip for the metal profile and wood screws for the timber. PVC panels can be fastened either with screws with a press washer or with special metal clips. The approximate quantity of all hardware can be calculated after choosing the method of fixing the ceiling and after reading the installation instructions.
Preparation stage
Even taking into account that the ceiling will disappear from view, it should be cleaned of all elements that may subsequently fall off or spill onto the mounted suspended ceiling: damaged plaster or putty between the slabs, whitewash, old finishing material and so on. The entire surface of the ceiling is primed.
Only after this can you begin marking for the installation of the perimeter and frame. To do this, you should draw a line on the walls throughout the room, which will indicate a single level of the future ceiling.
The ceiling should be lowered taking into account what lighting fixtures will be used, the presence of hidden wiring or other communications, as well as the unevenness of the ceiling itself. For wiring, you should take into account the mandatory presence of a gap between the upper edge of the frame and the ceiling of at least 1.5-2 cm. The lowest place on the ceiling should be selected as a reference point from which to measure the descent.
As soon as the first mark is placed, you can transfer it to all four walls along the edges using a water or laser level.
To mark a line around the entire perimeter, you can use twine, generously colored with bright chalk. By pressing the edges of the string against the wall along the marks, you can pull it back slightly and release it. As a result, the chalk will remain on the wall.
When the perimeter is outlined, you can begin marking the location of the supporting elements of the frame. Profiles or beams should be placed perpendicular to the future direction of the PVC panels and at a distance of 40 to 60 cm. At a greater distance, suspended ceilings made from panels may sag slightly during operation.
Advice: No matter how much you would like this, there are still cases when both the floor and the ceiling of a room in multi-storey buildings of mass construction are not level, and it is extremely expensive to correct this. In this case, it is better to deviate somewhat from reference to a strict level and draw a perimeter line with some slope so that the difference in the planes of the ceiling and floor is not visually striking.
Frame installation
Option 1: plastic sheathing
A plastic U-shaped profile or a plinth with it is attached around the perimeter of the entire room so that its lower border runs along the previously drawn line. To join profiles in corners, use a miter box and a hacksaw.
This is the only way to get a beautiful cut and minimal gap. The profile should be fastened every 25-30 cm. Next, to facilitate the process of installing the frame, you can stretch a thread or fishing line across the ceiling so that it forms a plane along with the upper edge of the profile.
Option 2: wooden frame
The wooden beams are attached to the ceiling using dowels and impact screws, every 60 cm. In order to bring them to the same level along the bottom edge, you can use wooden pads between them and the ceiling.
Option 3: metal profile
The metal profile, as in the case of plasterboard, is attached using U-shaped elements located every 60-80 cm. It is most convenient to attach the so-called “pawns” to the ceiling with anchors with a driven wedge, and to the profiles using screws with a drill tip.
There is no need to install jumpers between the supporting frames, but they will be needed in places where something heavy is supposed to be fixed, for example, a chandelier.
At the end of the installation of the frame, laying is carried out power cables for lighting. When using PVC panels, the wires must be laid in corrugation to ensure fire safety. In places where spotlights will be installed, it is enough to leave loops 10-15 cm long.
Installation of PVC panels
Now that the frame is ready and brought to a single level, you can begin installing suspended ceilings.
This is the least troublesome and at the same time responsible process. The first strip of material is inserted into the U-shaped profile. Some craftsmen cut off the latch along the edge of the first strip.
Once the strip is in place, it is secured with screws or clips to the frame support profiles, without missing a single one. You can cut a strip of the required size using a hacksaw or a simple knife. The material is quite easy to cut.
Important: PVC panels should be cut to a length slightly shorter than the distance between the walls. There must be a gap between the strip and the walls, approximately 4-5 mm at each end.
The next strip is applied to the lock at a slight angle and inserted into it along its entire length. After this, press the second side to the frame and also secure it with screws. In order to bring the strips together tightly, you can use a block or a piece of the same PVC panel, which is inserted into the groove and carefully driven in with a hammer until it stops.
The main thing is not to bend the strips of material under any circumstances and not to apply too much force during installation. PVC panels are quite fragile and even careless hand pressure can leave a dent that cannot be removed. Installation is best done with a partner or using simple supports with crossbars.
The main difficulty may arise when installing the last strip.
In one embodiment, you can turn the strip over with a lock in the other direction and trim it along the length from the side of the groove to the desired width. Next, placing it tightly against the previous panel, the last element of the ceiling is fastened with screws. When using dismountable skirting boards, it is easier and more reliable to simply cut the strip to width and click the lock with the previous strip, as in all other cases.
If you plan to install spotlights in the ceiling, it is naturally more advisable to think about it in advance and embed spots “on the ground”. For more information about installing lighting in a plastic or any other ceiling, read the link.
Completion
Once all the strips are installed, you can begin finishing. When using a U-shaped profile, a separate plinth is installed around the perimeter.
It is best to attach it using liquid nails. In this case, it is better to apply them only to one side of the baseboard. That is, the plinth is attached either only to the wall or only to the ceiling.
In the case of a collapsible plinth, the mating part is simply snapped into place. In the corners, you can use special adapter couplings or cover the cracks with sealant of a suitable color.
In pre-marked places, holes should be made for the output of lighting wires or for the installation of spotlights. The same work can be done during the installation of the ceiling.
At the very end of the work, the lamps and all the equipment necessary for them are installed. It is advisable to adhere to generally accepted standards and, in the case where a suspended ceiling is installed in a bathroom, then install low-voltage lighting fixtures with a converter instead of the usual circuit using 220 V. However, the fact that a ceiling made of PVC panels is to a certain extent not afraid of moisture, it can be guaranteed to protect yourself from the consequences of moderate flooding by neighbors above.
Video: example of installing PVC panels on a ceiling
Display all materials with the tag:
Go to section:
One of the most practical options finishing the room - assemble a suspended ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands.
And this is no coincidence. After all, panels based on polyvinyl chloride (PVC) have a number of useful properties. Thanks to this, a ceiling made of plastic panels competes well with plasterboard, Armstrong and even with the currently popular stretch ceilings.
Advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels
To answer this question, it is necessary to reveal all the positive properties of PVC panels. The main advantages of plastic panels over competitors are as follows:
Firstly, it is a moisture-resistant finishing material.
It has proven itself excellent in rooms with high humidity, be it a bathroom or toilet. Moreover, a ceiling made of plastic panels is not only resistant to high humidity, but can easily withstand any flooding. Therefore, if your neighbors on the floor above have a habit of forgetting about the open tap in the bathroom, such a ceiling will be an excellent solution that reduces losses from such comrades.
Secondly, it is very available material in order to improve the ceiling. Therefore, in addition to use in the bathroom or in toilet room, it is successfully used for arranging loggias, balconies, and corridors. It is also popular in country buildings, for example in country houses.
Another advantage of this material is that it is very convenient and easy to use.
In order to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands, you do not need expensive tools. In addition to this, it is worth saying that plastic ceilings are very easy to care for. They can simply be wiped with a damp cloth, do not require regular painting and are durable enough for a ceiling.
However, before you use this material, you need to know about its shortcomings.
Firstly, it initially emits a specific smell.
After all, it is, after all, a chemical product. It is advisable to take this point into account. It is not advisable to install such panels in fire hazardous areas, since when burned they release toxic substances.
Among the shortcomings in design, it should be noted next moment. Due to the fact that the panels are joined to one another, even with high-quality work, microscopic seams between the panels are visually noticeable. Especially if you choose white panels for the ceiling decoration.
And yet, if you use PVC panels in suitable premises, then you can get a practical and beautiful ceiling.
How much material will it take to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands?
In order to construct a suspended ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands, you will need the following materials.
– PVC panels;
– moldings for them or components;
– material for the frame (wooden bars, metal or plastic profiles);
– fasteners for frame and panels;
– wiring, in case of installation of lighting fixtures.
Calculation of the number of PVC panels
To do this, you need to accurately measure the dimensions of the existing ceiling. Next, you need to decide how the PVC panels will be located - along the larger side of the room or across it. If you plan to install panels lengthwise, then the quantity is determined as follows.
Quantity (pcs.) = Room width (cm)/Usable panel width (cm)
The formula is correct provided that the length of the room is no more than the length of the panel.
When PVC panels are arranged transversely, their number is calculated as follows:
Quantity (pcs.) = Room length (cm)/Usable panel width (cm)
Moreover, if the width of the ceiling is equal to or less than half the length of the panel, then the quantity must be halved, since trimmings can also be used.
The store has panels with a useful width of 25cm and a length of 270cm. In this case, it is more advantageous to place the panels across the loggia and cut two from one for the ceiling. Then
(350/25)/2=7. Seven panels will be required.
And in general, as for the location of the panels relative to the ceiling, this is often done out of a desire to minimize the number of scraps.
As for the sizes of panels that are most commonly found on sale, we can say the following. The most popular PVC panels are 270 cm and 300 cm long. Depending on the width, there are some – 25cm; 33cm; 37.5cm; 48.5 cm.
PVC panels come in a wide variety of colors. Moreover, they come in matte or glossy. To fasten them to the frame sheathing, self-tapping screws with a press washer 9-13 mm long, small nails and metal staples for a stapler are suitable.
Calculation of material for the frame
Since the ceiling is suspended, material will be required to make the frame. The frame can be assembled from wooden blocks, usually measuring 25 x 40.
But only if we do not plan to make such a ceiling in a room with high humidity. In this case, it is not practical to use wood to make the frame and profiles should be used. Moreover, the cost of wooden bars is comparable to the cost of metal profiles, which means it is more reliable and practical to use them for constructing a frame.
DIY ceiling frame made of plastic panels
To build a metal frame, it is convenient to use a ceiling profile.
You will also need guides that match the size. And to attach the frame to the ceiling you will need hangers. It is convenient to attach the suspensions to the ceiling and guides to the walls using dowel-nails measuring 6 by 40 or 6 by 60.
To assemble the frame, so-called “bugs” are useful. This is a small, specific self-tapping screw whose head resembles a trapezoid in cross-section.
DIY ceiling made of plastic panels. Installation methods
The most difficult and important part in constructing a ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands is the correct installation of the frame. If in the future the installation of built-in lamps is required, then the structure of the plastic ceiling frame should be 7 cm lower than the existing one. This is exactly the distance that allows the installation of lighting fixtures.
Having assembled the frame, you need to take care of lighting and lay wires for lighting fixtures. After this, you can finally begin attaching the PVC panels to the sheathing.
Methods for installing plastic panels
The first option is how to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands - using moldings or components. To do this, a final element or, in other words, a “starter” is attached along the perimeter of the frame.
Typically L = wall length - 1 cm. This gap will allow us to install the first panel more easily. It is convenient to trim using a paint knife along a metal corner.
Sometimes you come across hard panels and you will have to cut them with a jigsaw or, if you don’t have one, with a fine-toothed hacksaw.
The other side is called the wide mounting flange. It must be secured to the frame with self-tapping screws.
How to mount a ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands
Then we insert the next panel with the narrow fastening part into the groove of the first until it stops, so that there is no gap between them, and fasten it to the frame. The subsequent ones are installed in the same way. The last panel should be reduced and cut longitudinally by 5-8 mm from the side of the wide mounting part relative to the final molding.
Then install it in the groove of the last “start” and slide it into the groove of the penultimate panel. There is no need for subsequent fastening. In places where it is planned to install lampshades or chandeliers, additional sheathing is installed in advance.
The second way to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands is without using moldings. This option is in many ways similar to the first. The only difference is that the first and last panels are additionally secured on the extreme sides with fasteners.
And the gaps between the panels and the wall are then closed by gluing ceiling plinths made of polystyrene foam.
In this simple way you can assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands. Dear readers, I hope this site material will help you install a ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands without wasting effort and time and appreciate its practicality.
Despite the variety of types of suspended ceilings, such as plasterboard, tension or armstrong, ceilings made of plastic panels have not lost their popularity to this day, due to their low cost and ease of installation.
Plastic panels are mainly used for installing plastic ceilings in bathrooms, kitchens, balconies or loggias, gas stations, but also for wall panels and lining of communication systems, sewer and water pipes leaving an inspection hatch for monitoring taps and water meters. Using panels for large ceilings is not very advisable, since such a ceiling does not look aesthetically pleasing due to the limited panel length of 3 meters; there are also 6 meter ones, but it is not always possible to bring them into the room. Because of this, it is necessary to add a connecting H-profile, which does not completely match the color of the panels and will stand out strongly against the general background.
Do-it-yourself installation of the panels begins with assembling the frame to which they will be attached; the frame can be made of wood or metal profiles, which are used in the installation of drywall. It is better to use metal profiles, as they are smoother than boards or timber.
Materials for assembling the frame:
- UD profile;
- CD profile;
- pendants;
- dowel with a diameter of 6 mm;
- metal self-tapping screws with a 4.2x13 mm “flea” press washer.
Minimum set of tools for installation on a concrete ceiling:
- perforator;
- screwdriver;
- metal scissors;
- metal hacksaw or jigsaw;
- water level;
- Victory drill bit 6 mm.
You may also need an upholstery cord and a 2.5-3 mm drill, a plasterboard crown, a miter box, and silicone.
Step-by-step instructions for installing plastic panels
If there is no hidden wiring, it must be placed in corrugated pipes to prevent possible fire.
Before installing the profiles, you need to set marks to which the ceiling will be lowered, taking into account the height of the UD profile of 45 mm and the height of the starting profile of 8-10 mm, this is especially important for balconies, since the final height of the suspended ceiling overhang will block access to the opening of the balcony windows.
Having established the marks, the next step is to move them using a ruler from bottom to top by 8-10 mm, depending on the height of the starting “elka” profile.
After applying the markings, the UD profiles are installed. The profile must be leaned against the wall so that its lower part is at the mark, then using a hammer drill equipped Pobedit drill, drill the profile together with the wall to the length of the dowel with a margin of 10 mm. After drilling the first hole, you can hammer in the dowel; this is convenient if you work alone.
The next step is to install the hangers; in order to determine their location, you need to put marks on the UD profile, since later the CD profile is attached to the hangers, the marks are made based on its location. The CD profile is mounted perpendicular to the length of the plastic panels. Having determined the direction of the plastic panels, we make a mark on the UD profile perpendicularly every 50 cm.
Next, we insert the CD profiles, cut to the required length, into the UD profile and screw the suspensions to the ceiling with dowels, then connect the suspension to the CD profile with self-tapping screws; if the profile span is large, then we check it with a level or pull the cord so that the frame is level. At the end we connect UD and CD with self-tapping screws.
If used wooden frame, it is advisable to treat it with an antifungal agent.
When the frame is ready, we attach the starting “elku” profile or the “fillet” ceiling plinth or F-profile.
Professionals advise first attaching 3 guide profiles, and gluing the last one after joining all the panels. You can mount 4 “elks” at once, but then due to poor clamping, a small gap may form between the last and previous panels, the advantage of this method is quick installation without the use of liquid nails.
Depending on your choice, whether it is a starting profile or a fillet, the sequence of further work depends.
If a starting profile is selected, then the first 3 are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the last one with liquid nails, otherwise all 4 with self-tapping screws.
If it is a fillet, then all 4 or more can be secured with liquid nails, and the last one is attached at the end, taking into account that its “tongue” is cut off, see the video for more details.
The same can be applied to the F-profile.
I would like to note that no matter what guide option you choose, it can be fastened in any way convenient for you, with self-tapping screws or liquid nails, staples or wood nails.
Laying the first row
We cut the PVC panel 5 mm smaller than required to facilitate installation.
We insert one edge of the panel into the PVC guide. To bring in the second edge, you need to slightly bend the panel down.
We screw the panel to the profile with a flea screw. On a wooden frame, you can use a regular drywall screw.
Insert the second panel and press down until the lock clicks into place.
Installation of the last plastic panel on the ceiling
There are several ways to secure last panel:
1. The easiest way is to cut the panel 5-7 mm smaller in width, first insert it into the guide, and then push it into reverse side until the lock clicks into place.
2. Glue the last panel to the profiles using liquid nails together with the L or F profile, or in the case of a fillet, first glue the panel, and on it the fillet with the “tongue” cut off. For more details about the last option, see the video.
PVC lamps
We make holes for recessed lamps or ventilation using a plasterboard crown mounted on a screwdriver or drill.
How to make corners?
It is not necessary to cut the corners on the L or F profile; they are not very noticeable. But for fillets you need a miter box and strong nerves if you are a beginner. After finishing the installation, we cover the cracks with silicone, watch the video.
In order not to resort to buying a miter box, you can purchase corners for PVC fillets, they are shown in the photo below.
