Lasers came into use a long time ago. Guides use light pointers, builders set levels with beam support. The purpose of the laser is to heat substances (up to thermal destruction) - it is used for cutting and decorating. One of the uses- laser engraving. On different materials it is possible to obtain fine patterns with virtually no restrictions on complexity.
We offer a wide selection of engraving machines, mostly made in China. The equipment is not very expensive, however, purchasing it simply for the purpose of entertainment is not advisable. It's much more fun to do homemade laser engraver with my own hands.
How to make an engraver from a printer?
How to make an engraver with your own hands? Making a CNC engraver from an old printer is not at all difficult. It's like an Arduino constructor. Detailed instructions will undoubtedly help you navigate everything.
However, first it is necessary Prepare all the required components for the CNC:
- 3 studs from the hardware store;
- duralumin U-profile;
- 2 metal bearings;
- a piece of plexiglass;
- metal nuts of ordinary size and large;
- 3 stepper motors, they can be taken from an old printer.
It is also necessary to have the following devices at hand:
- saw;
- screws;
- screwdrivers and other devices.
The only thing that will need to be done outside the house is to weld the base for the CNC machine, although it can also be done in a bolted manner.
Stages of machine production
The production of the engraver begins with the mount lead screw and profile. The final stage is to use a sled.
Progress:
The engraving machine in this modification, developed with your own hands, can be an ordinary home Dremel. Attach your own engraver allowed using plexiglass.
Now you have your DIY desktop laser engraver ready. Now all that remains is to connect it using limit switches. Given homemade device makes it possible to carry out living conditions stone carving, but does not make it possible to divide it.
How to assemble a laser engraving device using a diode from an old DVD drive?
You can make your own laser from a DVD drive. An optical beam made by yourself is unlikely to be controlled with iron or wood.
However, it will be completely possible for them to share:
- paper;
- small sheet of plastic;
- plastic film;
- other simple and delicate items.
In addition to the above alternatives, a laser made with your own hands from a DVD drive can be used for many different tasks. In particular, his potential is perfectly revealed in the creative field.
If thread is not needed, with a laser from a DVD drive you can:
- burn patterns or pictures on wood surfaces;
- illuminate various objects at a great distance;
- use as decoration at home;
- make direct lines (since the beam is clearly visible), which will be especially useful during construction and repair.
What will be needed to complete the job?
To make a beam, you will need certain elements. They are always sold in ordinary shopping centers electronics, therefore, you won’t have to put in any extra efforts.
Thus, for the purpose of production you will need:
Disassembly of the drive must be carried out with special care. If handled carelessly, you can not only damage the mechanism, but also cause damage to your own eyes. The problem is that the beam has the ability to blind at some time and negatively affect visual acuity.
Now a homemade device should be ensured electric shock. The power supply of a conventional diode must be 3V, and the consumption must be up to 400 mA. These values may vary depending on the write speed of the drive. The laser does not require huge performance. So, for the components of a drive whose write speed is 16X, 200 mA is sufficient. This value can be increased to a maximum of 300 milliamps, otherwise there is a possibility of damaging the crystal and forgetting about the homemade laser.
The easiest way to make a homemade collimator is with an ordinary laser pointer. The cheapest Chinese option will also work. All that is necessary is to remove the optical lens from the “laser” (it is visible). The width of the half-line will be more than 5 millimeters. Of course, this kind of coefficient is huge and cannot in any way claim the title of laser. The stock collimator lens will help reduce the diameter down to 1 mm. Although in order to achieve such an effect, you will have to work thoroughly.
Creating a laser with your own hands is very interesting process. It does not require any specialized parts or large economic costs. Completely neat and shallow knowledge of electrics is enough. If production is successful, you can start using the device. Cutting beam without difficulty pops balloons, burns through paper and leaves imprints on wood. However, when using, one should not forget about technical safety.
Good time everyone!
In this post I want to share with you the process of creating a laser engraver based on a diode laser from China.
A few years ago I had a desire to buy myself ready-made option engraver from Aliexpress with a budget of 15 thousand, but after a long search I came to the conclusion that all the presented options are too simple and are essentially toys. But I wanted something tabletop and at the same time quite serious. After a month of research, it was decided to make this device with our own hands, and away we go...
At that moment I did not yet have a 3D printer and 3D modeling experience, but everything was fine with drawing)
Here is actually one of those ready-made engravers from China.
Having looked at the options possible designs mechanics, the first sketches of the future machine were made on a piece of paper..))
It was decided that the engraving area should be no smaller than an A3 sheet.
The laser module itself was one of the first to be purchased. Power 2W, since it was the most the best option for reasonable money.
Here is the laser module itself.
And so, it was decided that the X axis would travel along the Y axis and its design began. And it all started with the carriage...
The entire machine frame was made from aluminum profiles different shapes, bought in Leroy.
At this stage, sketches on notebook sheets no longer appeared, everything was drawn and thought out in Compass.
Having bought 2 meters of a square profile 40x40 mm to build the frame of the machine, in the end only the carriage itself was made of it ..))
Motors, linear bearings, belts, shafts and all electronics were ordered from Aliexpress during the development process and plans for how the motors would be mounted and what the control board would be changed along the way.
After a few days of drawing in Compass, a more or less clear version of the machine design was determined.
And so the X axis was born..))
Sidewalls of the Y axis (sorry for the photo quality).
Fitting.
And finally the first launch!
A simple 3D model of the general appearance of the machine was built in order to accurately determine its appearance and sizes.
And off we go... Plexiglas... Painting, wiring and other little things.
And finally, when everything was adjusted and the last part was painted black, the finish line came!
Now a little beautiful photos))
It took the author 4 months to assemble such an engraver; its power is 2 Watts. This is not too much, but it allows you to engrave on wood and plastic. The device can also cut balsa wood. The article contains all required material to create an engraver, including STL files for printing design components, as well as electronic circuits for connecting motors, lasers, and so on.
Video of the engraver at work:
Materials and tools:
Access to a 3D printer;
- rods from of stainless steel 5/16";
- bronze bushings (for plain bearings);
- diode M140 2 W;
- radiator and coolers to create diode cooling;
- stepper motors, pulleys, timing belts;
- Super glue;
- wooden beam;
- plywood;
- bolts with nuts;
- acrylic (for creating inserts);
- G-2 lens and driver;
- thermal paste;
- protective glasses;
- Arduino UNO controller;
- drill, cutting tool, screws, etc.
Engraver manufacturing process:
Step one. Create the Y axis
First, you need to design the frame of the printer in Autodesk Inventor. Then you can start printing out the Y-axis elements and assembling it. The first part that is printed on a 3D printer is needed to install the stepper motor on the Y axis, connect the steel shafts and ensure sliding along one of the X axis shafts.
After the part is printed, two bronze bushings need to be installed in it; they are used as sliding supports. To reduce friction, the bushings need to be lubricated. This perfect solution for such projects because it is cheap.
As for the guides, they are made of stainless steel rods with a diameter of 5/16". Stainless steel has a low coefficient of friction with bronze, so it is excellent for plain bearings.
A laser is also installed on the Y axis; it has a metal body and gets quite hot. To reduce the risk of overheating you need to install aluminum radiator and coolers for cooling. The author used old elements from a robot controller.
Among other things, in the block for the 1"X1" laser you need to make a 31/64" hole and add a bolt to the side face. The block is connected to another part, which is also printed on a 3D printer, it will move along the Y axis. To transmit movement, it is used toothed belt.
After assembling the laser module, it is installed on the Y axis. Also at this stage, stepper motors, pulleys and timing belts are installed.
Step two. Create the X axis
Wood was used to create the base of the engraver. The most important thing is that the two X axes are clearly parallel, otherwise the device will jam. To move along the X coordinate, a separate motor is used, as well as a drive belt in the center along the Y axis. Thanks to this design, the system is simple and works perfectly.
For fastening cross beam, which connects the belt to the Y-axis, you can use superglue. But it is best to 3D print special brackets for these purposes.
Step three. We connect and check the electronics
The homemade diode uses an M140 diode; you can buy a more powerful one, but the price will be higher. To focus the beam you will need a lens and a regulated power source. The lens is installed on the laser using thermal paste. When working with lasers, you must wear safety glasses only.
To check how the electronics work, the author turned them on outside the machine. Used to cool electronics computer cooler. The system works on the controller Arduino Uno, which is related to grbl. To enable the signal to be transmitted online, Universal Gcode Sender is used. To convert vector images to G-code, you can use Inkscape with the gcodetools plugin installed. To control the laser, a contact is used that controls the operation of the spindle. This is one of the most simple examples using gcodetools.
Step four. Engraver body
The side edges are made of plywood. Since the stepper motor extends slightly beyond the body during operation, a rectangular hole must be made in the rear edge. In addition, you need to remember to make holes for cooling, power connections, and a USB port. The edges of the upper and front parts of the body are also made of plywood; acrylic walls are installed in the central part. An additional wooden platform is attached above all the elements that are installed at the bottom of the box. It is the basis for the material with which the laser works.
Acrylic is used to make the walls orange color, since it perfectly absorbs laser rays. It is important to remember that even a reflected laser beam can seriously damage the eye. That's all, the laser is ready. You can start testing.
Of course, complex images are not of very high quality, but the engraver can burn out simple ones without difficulty. It can also be used to cut balsa wood without any problems.
Sometimes you need to sign a gift beautifully, but it’s not clear how to do it. The paint spreads and wears off quickly, a marker is not an option. Engraving is best suited for this. You don’t even have to spend money on it, since anyone who knows how to solder can make a laser engraver from a printer with their own hands.
Design and principle of operation
The main element of the engraver is a semiconductor laser. It emits a focused and very bright beam of light that burns through the material being processed. By adjusting the radiation power, you can change the depth and speed of burning.
The laser diode is based on a semiconductor crystal, on top and bottom of which there are P and N regions. Electrodes are connected to them, through which current is supplied. Between these regions there is a P - N junction.
Compared to a regular laser diode, it looks like a giant: its crystal can be examined in detail with the naked eye.
The values can be deciphered as follows:
- P (positive) area.
- P - N transition.
- N (negative) area.
The ends of the crystal are polished to perfection, so it works as an optical resonator. Electrons, flowing from a positively charged region to a negative one, excite photons in the P-N junction. Reflecting from the walls of the crystal, each photon generates two similar ones, which, in turn, also divide, and so on ad infinitum. The chain reaction occurring in a semiconductor laser crystal is called the pumping process. The more energy is supplied to the crystal, the more it is pumped into laser ray. In theory, you can saturate it indefinitely, but in practice everything is different.
During operation, the diode heats up and must be cooled. If you constantly increase the power supplied to the crystal, sooner or later there will come a time when the cooling system can no longer cope with heat removal and the diode will burn out.
The power of laser diodes usually does not exceed 50 Watts. Above this value, it becomes difficult to make an effective cooling system, so high-power diodes are extremely expensive to produce.
There are semiconductor lasers of 10 kilowatts or more, but they are all composite. Their optical resonator is pumped by low-power diodes, the number of which can reach several hundred.
Compound lasers are not used in engravers because their power is too high.
Creating a laser engraver
For simple work, like burning patterns on wood, you don’t need complex and expensive devices. A homemade laser engraver powered by a battery will be sufficient.
Before making an engraver, you need to prepare the following parts for its assembly:
Remove the write head from the DVD drive.
Carefully remove the focusing lens and disassemble the head housing until you see 2 lasers hidden in heat-distributing casings.
One of them is infrared, for reading information from the disk. The second one, red, is the writing one. In order to distinguish them, apply a voltage of 3 volts to their terminals.
Pinout:
Be sure to wear dark glasses before testing. Never test the laser by looking at the diode window. You only need to look at the reflection of the beam.
You need to select the laser that lights up. You can throw away the rest if you don’t know where to use it. To protect against static, solder all leads of the diode together and set it aside. Saw off a 15 cm section from the profile. Drill a hole in it for the clock button. Make cutouts in the box for the profile, charging socket and switch.
The schematic diagram of a DIY DVD laser engraver looks like this:
Tin the contact pads on the charge control board and holder:
Using wires to pins B+ and B- of the charge controller, solder the battery compartment. Contacts + and - go to the socket, the remaining 2 go to the laser diode. First, solder the laser power supply circuit using a surface-mounted installation and insulate it well with tape.
Make sure that the terminals of the radio components do not short circuit with each other. Solder a laser diode and a button to the power supply circuit. Place the assembled device in the profile and glue the laser with heat-conducting glue. Secure the remaining parts with double-sided tape. Reinstall the tact button.
Insert the profile into the box, bring out the wires and secure it with hot glue. Solder the switch and install it. Do the same procedure with the charging socket. Using a hot glue gun, glue the battery compartment and charge controller into place. Insert the battery into the holder and close the box with the lid.
Before using it, you need to set up the laser. To do this, place a sheet of paper 10 centimeters from it, which will be a target for the laser beam. Place the focusing lens in front of the diode. By moving it further and closer, achieve a burn through the target. Glue the lens to the profile in the place where the greatest effect was achieved.
The assembled engraver is perfect for minor works and entertainment purposes such as lighting matches and burning balloons.
Remember that the engraver is not a toy and should not be given to children. The laser beam, if it comes into contact with the eyes, causes irreversible consequences, so keep the device out of the reach of children.
CNC device manufacturing
For large volumes of work, a conventional engraver will not cope with the load. If you are going to use it frequently and a lot, you will need a CNC device.
Assembling the interior
You can even make a laser engraver at home. To do this, you need to remove the stepper motors and guides from the printer. They will drive the laser.
Full list necessary details as follows:
Connection diagram for all components:
View from above:
Explanation of symbols:
- Semiconductor laser with heatsink.
- Carriage.
- X-axis guides.
- Pressure rollers.
- Stepper motor.
- Drive gear.
- Toothed belt.
- Guide fastenings.
- Gears.
- Stepper motors.
- Sheet metal base.
- Y axis guides.
- X-axis carriages.
- Toothed belts.
- Mounting supports.
- Limit switches.
Measure the length of the guides and divide them into two groups. The first will contain 4 short ones, the second - 2 long ones. Guides from the same group must be the same length.
Add 10 centimeters to the length of each group of guides and cut the base to the resulting dimensions. Bend U-shaped supports for fastenings from scraps and weld them to the base. Mark and drill holes for the bolts.
Drill a hole in the radiator and glue the laser in there using heat-conducting glue. Solder the wires and transistor to it. Bolt the radiator to the carriage.
Install the guide rail mounts onto the two supports and secure them with bolts. Insert the Y-axis guides into the mounts, put the X-axis carriages on their free ends. Insert the remaining guides with the laser head installed on them. Place the fasteners on the Y-axis guides and screw them to the supports.
Drill holes in the places where the electric motors and gear axles are mounted. Reinstall the stepper motors and place the drive gears on their shafts. Insert pre-cut axles from a metal rod into the holes and secure them with epoxy glue. After it hardens, place the gears and pressure rollers with bearings inserted into them onto the axles.
Install the timing belts as shown in the diagram. Pull them tight before fastening. Check the mobility of the X-axis and laser head. They should move with little effort, rotating all the rollers and gears through the belts.
Connect wires to the laser, motors and end switches and tie them together with zip ties. Place the resulting bundles in movable cable channels and secure them to the carriages.
Lead the ends of the wires out.
Case manufacturing
Drill holes in the base for the corners. Step back 2 centimeters from its edges and draw a rectangle.
Its width and length repeat the dimensions of the future body. The height of the case must be such that all internal mechanisms fit into it.
Explanation of symbols:
- Loops.
- Tact button (start/stop).
- Arduino power switch.
- Laser switch.
- 2.1 x 5.5 mm socket for supplying 5 V power.
- Protective box for DC-DC inverter.
- Wires.
- Arduino protective box.
- Housing fastenings.
- Corners.
- Base.
- Legs made of non-slip material.
- Lid.
Cut out all the body parts from plywood and fasten them with corners. Using the hinges, install the cover on the body and screw it to the base. Cut a hole in the front wall and insert the wires through it.
Assemble from plywood protective covers and cut holes in them for buttons, switches and sockets. Place the Arduino in the housing so that the USB connector matches the hole provided for it. Set the DC-DC converter to a voltage of 3 V at a current of 2 A. Secure it in the housing.
Reinstall the button, power socket, switches and solder electrical diagram engraver together. After soldering all the wires, install the casings on the case and screw them with self-tapping screws. For the engraver to work, you need to upload the firmware to the Arduino.
After flashing the firmware, turn on the engraver and press the “Start” button. Leave the laser turned off. Pressing the button will start the calibration process, during which the microcontroller will measure and remember the length of all axes and determine the position of the laser head. After its completion, the engraver will be completely ready for work.
Before you start working with the engraver, you need to convert the images into a format understandable for Arduino. This can be done using the Inkscape Laserengraver program. Move the selected image into it and click on Convert. Send the resulting file via cable to the Arduino and start the printing process, turning on the laser first.
Such an engraver can only process objects consisting of organic substances: wood, plastic, fabrics, paint and varnish coatings, and others. Metals, glass and ceramics cannot be engraved on it.
Never turn on the engraver with open lid. The laser beam, entering the eyes, concentrates on the retina, damaging it. Reflexively closing your eyelids will not save you - the laser will have time to burn out an area of the retina even before they close. You may not feel anything, but over time the retina will begin to peel off, which can lead to complete or partial loss of vision.
If you catch a laser “bunny”, contact an ophthalmologist as soon as possible - this will help avoid serious problems in the future.
Engravers are widely used in various industries not only for engraving various materials, but also for drilling miniature holes, polishing, grinding, and milling. The same operations can be performed at home with their help. If this is only required occasionally, or you just need to save money on buying a tool, then you can make a mini-drill yourself from unnecessary equipment, which often lies unused in garages or storage rooms. With the help of homemade drills, you can perform the same operations as with a factory tool of similar power, you just need to use the appropriate attachments.
Based on the features of their functioning, engravers are divided into milling and laser. In the first, the material is processed with various attachments. In laser models, all the work is done by the laser beam - this contactless engraving method. Moreover, such a device belongs to the category of high-tech equipment. But homemade engraver It can also be done at home.
To create a laser engraver with your own hands, you will need the following parts, tools and materials:
- stepper motors from a DVD drive;
- Arduino computing platform;
- Proto Board with display;
- limit switches for motors;
- laser module (for example, 3 W power);
- device for adjusting the constant voltage value;
- laser cooling system;
- MOSFET (transistor);
- boards for assembling electric motor control elements;
- frame;
- toothed pulleys and belts for them;
- bearings of various sizes;
- wooden boards: 2 pieces measuring 135x10x2 cm and two more - 125x10x2 cm;
- 4 round metal rods with a cross section of 10 mm;
- lubricant;
- clamps, bolts with washers and nuts;
- vice;
- locksmith tools;
- drill;
- jigsaw or circular saw;
- files or sandpaper;
- computer or laptop.
Stepper motors can be taken not only from a DVD, but also from a printer that is practically not used.
The machine is assembled according to the following algorithm:
- create a foundation;
- install guides with movable carriages;
- assemble an electrical circuit;
- install the necessary programs on the computer;
- carry out adjustment (tuning) of the laser head;
- check the functionality of the machine.
Connection diagram Stepper electric motors taken from an inkjet printer or DVD are shown in the photo below.
The entire sequence of actions that allows you to assemble a laser engraver using Arduino is demonstrated in detail in the video below.
The created CNC engraver will cost much cheaper than any factory-produced laser models. It can be used for making stamps, for photoresist, for working with wood, plywood, plastic, cardboard, polystyrene foam and cork sheets. Metal engraving is also possible.
Assembling an electric engraver with a tripod and flexible shaft
An electric engraver is the most common type of this type of tool at home. To make a functionally complete device yourself, capable of competing with analogues industrial production, you will need an electric motor that runs on alternating current 220 V. Such electric motors can be taken from the following equipment:
- Soviet-style reel-to-reel tape recorders;
- DVD players;
- washing machines;
- angle grinders;
- electric sewing machines.
The last option is optimal because it is possible to adjust the speed over a fairly wide range using the built-in rheostat.
For domestic use, a drill with an engine speed of Idling up to 6 thousand rpm.
Holding an electric motor from any of the listed types of equipment in one hand is inconvenient, and in most cases it is simply impossible. Therefore you will need flexible shaft for engraver. Wherein general form The future device will turn out approximately as in the photo below.
The functionality of the created engraving device will depend on the materials and mechanisms used during assembly. The motor can be placed on the table, but it is more convenient to do it tripod for engraver, or rather its likeness.
Manufacturing of flexible shaft
With a flexible shaft everything is relatively simple. It can be done in several ways:
- from an old drive shaft, for example, from a dental drill;
- using the speedometer cable of a motorcycle or car.
The working shaft attachment can also be used from a drill or make your own from different materials, for example, from wood, textolite, plastic pipes. From textolite The device (handle) for holding the equipment is made like this:
- cut 2 textolite platinums (sheet thickness should be about 1 cm) measuring approximately 2 by 10 cm;
- connect them together and grind them with a file or emery from the outside to form a cylinder;
- grind with inside grooves;
- metal rings secure the parts to each other;
- a tube is inserted into the front part of the handle, under a cartridge consisting of two separate halves connected with a bolt.
The end result will be a handle like the one in the photo below.
The internal hole made between the textolite plates should be of such a cross-section as not to interfere with the free rotation of the cable. It will be possible to insert nozzles with shank diameters from 2 to 5 mm into the chuck.
Assembling the engraving unit
It’s very easy to make a tripod (a base for installing an electric motor) from plywood or the same PCB. To do this, do this:
- cut out several pieces (4 are enough) from a sheet of material corresponding to the size of the electric motor;
- a motor is attached to one of the fragments using clamps;
- assemble the box;
- A hole is drilled in the front part for the flexible shaft.
The created structure is hung on the wall.
Convenient to use factory holder with clamps for the engraver, if the dimensions of the electric motor allow. The mount connects to any table. But such a device will need to be purchased additionally.
Further assembly of the engraving device is carried out in the following sequence:
- using a coupling made from a drilled bolt, connect the cable to the electric motor shaft;
- put a rubber hose of the appropriate diameter on the cable and attach a handle made to it;
- install a start button;
- connect equipment to the network;
- check the functionality of the device made.
A homemade drill will allow you to process wood, bone, metal, glass, plastic, ceramic workpieces, as well as various metals, natural and artificial stone.
You can also use electric motors when creating homemade straight grinders, designed for 380 V, but if they can be adjusted to 220. In such cases, you will need to tinker a little more. There is a lot of information on this issue both on the Internet and in books on electrical engineering.
Making a mini drill from a motor
It happens that at home you need to make small holes in wood or plastic, and drill bits are not suitable. In such cases, a homemade mini-drill made from a motor will help. It can also be used to perform wood engraving. And if you are interested in amateur radio, then using the created tool you can drill and cut boards.
To create a homemade device, you will need to take a miniature electric motor from an old tape recorder. Even various models of motors from children's toys are suitable. If you use a mini-motor from a 12 V tape recorder as a drive, you will also need the following materials and parts:
- power supply or several batteries (battery) with 12 V output;
- a piece of plastic pipe (about 10 cm long) with such a cross-section that a miniature electric motor can be inserted inside;
- heat-resistant glue;
- power button;
- wiring for electrical connections.
You can assemble a mini-drill yourself using the following algorithm:
- using an electric drill or knife, make a hole in the tube for the switch;
- lubricate the motor with glue to fix it inside the future housing;
- insert the electric motor into the tube;
- any of the wires through which the motor is powered is inserted into a hole previously drilled in the housing, and the other end is left on the back side of the housing;
- one wire from the power supply is inserted into the hole under the button;
- solder the switch to the protruding ends using a soldering iron, carefully insulating the contacts;
- The two remaining wires from the end of the tube (from the button and the motor) are connected to the connector for connecting the power supply;
- cut off the neck of any plastic bottle;
- make a hole in the center of the lid for the connector and glue these parts together;
- glue the neck to the tube;
- connect the assembled mini drill to the power supply;
- By pressing a button, they check the functionality of the homemade product.
Power supply voltage should be selected so that it matches the operating voltage of the electric motor used.
To make a mini drill autonomous, you just need to attach batteries to it.
Homemade Dremel from a drill and blender
If you have an old or unnecessary blender, then it is also easy to make a mini-drill from it. This household appliance already has a comfortable handle. In addition to the blender itself, you will also need the following devices and additional parts:
- tools to disassemble the device (screwdrivers with different tips, pliers);
- caliper or ruler;
- collet;
- soldering iron with soldering kit;
- file for finishing, sandpaper;
- switch.
You can do without the last part, but then you will need to constantly press the power button with your hand while working with the straight grinder.
An engraver from a blender is created like this:
- carefully disassemble household appliances;
- take out the internal parts: the electric motor and printed circuit board, which controls the operation of the device;
- using a caliper, measure the diameter of the spindle in order to purchase a collet chuck suitable for it;
- if the electric motor is contaminated with anything, for example, rust, then it is cleaned thoroughly, with care so as not to damage the windings;
- fix the purchased collet chuck (or one made independently) on the spindle;
- the power button already on the blender is replaced with a switch: the wire contacts are soldered;
- adapt a hole in the body of the household appliance for a new switch;
- install the electric motor with the board in its place inside the housing;
- collect the tool.
Depending on the model of the blender you are converting, you may need to do additional holes in its body, or expand existing ones using a file. There will be no problem doing this
The entire described process of assembling a Dremel from a blender is demonstrated in detail in the video below.
You don’t have to remake the blender, but simply connect to it a flexible shaft for a factory-made engraver. The docking method is shown in the video below.
You can also make an engraver from a drill. The assembly of options with and without a flexible shaft is shown in the following videos.
Making an engraver from a 3D printer
An ordinary 3D printer is a good basis for creating an engraver with which you can cut various materials, do crafts and perform other operations. To upgrade an existing device, you will need additional install board, which will power the operational circuits of the equipment and the laser module.
An engraving machine created from a 3D printer is demonstrated in the following video.
In addition to the simplest methods considered for creating a homemade engraving machine from a 3D printer, a small electric motor, a small electric motor, a blender and a drill, there are also other options. In this case, both this technique and other power tools are used as a basis. Craftsmen constantly come up with new modifications, showing design imagination. When implementing any of the above options or independent development in practice, you should provide security created homemade product. To do this you need to be well insulated. electrical contacts and reliably assemble equipment.
