There are several ways to clean sewage generated when people live in a private home. Some are cheaper to install, others are easier to operate. But if you need the most effective treatment system, then there is only one option - an aerobic septic tank, also called an active septic tank or station biological treatment. The sewage in it is processed by microorganisms by 98–99%. Although it is large, it is quite simple to arrange with your own hands.
The task of any sanitary wastewater treatment system is to process and drain it into the ground. First, the wastewater is clarified in a settling tank, during which large suspended matter settles out. Then the purified water is drained or used for household needs, and the sediment in the form of sludge is pumped out.
Septic tank with aerobic wastewater treatment
However, a wide variety of disinfection and filtration elements are often added to this scheme. Once in a standard design local treatment system (VS), sewage waste goes through three stages of disposal:
- Primary filtration, water clarification with settling of heavy fractions to the bottom of the tank.
- Fermentation with partial decomposition of organic matter.
- Drainage into the ground or pumping with sewerage equipment.
In a cesspool, all these processes occur in one container. However, this option is acceptable only for small volumes of wastewater, otherwise, due to overflow with waste, the “cesspool” ceases to perform its functions.
Numerous types of standard septic tanks partially process waste up to 60–70% of the volume. They are helped in this by anaerobic bacteria that do not require oxygen. They are present in the same cesspool, ensuring continuous fermentation and rotting of organic waste in it. However, they are “slow”; to speed up their work, you have to constantly add a bioactivator to the septic tank.
General diagram of a septic tank with aerobe bacteria
Aerobes are more productive - microorganisms that require constant oxygen supply to survive. Therefore, in order to provide them with the necessary oxygen, aerobic septic tanks are equipped with aerators and air compressors.
It is important to know! Only with continuous air pumping will a septic tank with aerobes function effectively.
Scheme of VOC deep biological treatment
An active aerobic septic tank consists of several chambers:
- Sump for clarification.
- A tank with an aerator (there may be several of them).
- Prefabricated well with cleared technical quality water.
To operate such a treatment system, not only microorganisms are needed, but also electricity. If bacteria feed on waste, then pumps and compressors need electric current.
Advice! An aerobic septic tank is an energy-dependent installation. If a private house regularly loses power due to power failures, it is better to find another cleaning option or take care of an emergency generator.
How bacteria work in an “oxygen” septic tank
Anaerobic bacteria are always present in the primary VOC settling tank. The fermentation of wastewater in it takes place in two stages: acidic and alkaline. The first occurs at the very beginning after startup, when the septic tank only receives the first volume of sewage. During its course, a large volume of gases with unpleasant odors is formed, which displace oxygen from the reservoir.
Due to oxygen starvation in the purification tank, a rapid increase in the number of anaerobic microorganisms begins - this is already alkaline fermentation. The sludge at the bottom acquires a dark color and no longer emits foul odors. But it is in it that anaerobes “live”.
Advice! It is not necessary to completely empty the sedimentation tank of alkaline sludge. Its small mass at the bottom of the treatment tank is the key to the absence of sewer stench and proper operation VOC.
Scheme of the wastewater treatment process
Next, the water clarified in the settling tank enters the aerobic chamber of the septic tank for further treatment. Aerobic bacteria are already beginning to act here. And the more oxygen they receive, the better and faster they decompose and oxidize organic matter.
The post-treatment of wastewater in an aerobic septic tank is carried out not by natural aerobe microorganisms, but by specially bred bacteria and attached to the filters. They purify wastewater by 99%, which allows purified water to be reused for technical needs.
In order for aerobes to work effectively, the water in the tank is blown with air - aerated. Compressors are used for this. When settled wastewater enters the post-treatment chamber, it is mixed with activated sludge, which will rise from the bottom due to the action of compressed air.
Aerobic bacteria begin to process organic matter and multiply. As a result, additional sludge is formed in the large quantities, settling at the bottom. The volume of the septic tank is calculated so that the sediment from it has to be unloaded no more than once a year.
Advantages of using aerobes in wastewater treatment
Aerobic septic tanks have four undeniable advantages:
- No unpleasant odors.
- Minimal amount cleaning - vacuum cleaners will need to be called only once a year.
- Maximum biosafety – contamination of land and groundwater is practically eliminated.
- Possibility of reusing purified water for irrigation or technical needs.
Construction of a two-chamber anaerobic-aerobic septic tank with a drainage field
The only drawback is the sensitivity of the microflora of an aerobic septic tank to certain chemical compounds that lead to the death of aerobes.
Important! Aerobic bacteria and household chemicals with a high content of formaldehyde and chlorine compounds are incompatible. These substances simply kill aerobe microorganisms.
Installing an aerobic septic tank with your own hands
The easiest way to install a factory septic tank is of the aerobic type. This is a ready-made system that only needs to be buried in the ground and a sewer system connected to it. It is supplied in the form of plastic or metal containers with a set of compressor and pumping equipment.
The size of the septic tank is determined based on 600 liters of wastewater for each person living in the house. This is 200 daily liters multiplied by three days. These are the recommendations of SNiP for private cottages.
Overflow septic tank from two reinforced concrete wells
You can make an aerobic septic tank with your own hands from several tanks, for which the following is suitable:
- Brick.
- Reinforced concrete rings.
- Plastic containers.
- Iron barrels.
- Tires.
You will have to tinker with brick wells; reinforced concrete is heavy and will require lifting equipment. Barrels and tanks made of iron are susceptible to corrosion processes. The best option– plastic. But the choice of material largely depends on its availability and cost in a particular region.
Do-it-yourself aerobic VOC device option
To operate an aerobic septic tank you will need the following equipment:
- external compressor for pumping air;
- an aerator to saturate the reservoir with aerobes with oxygen;
- pump for pumping sludge from the outer tank into a container with bacteria;
- submersible pump for pumping out purified water.
Important! All this equipment requires connection to the electrical network; a septic tank with aerobes is energy dependent. This should definitely be taken into account when choosing a local treatment plant for country house where there may be electrical problems.
Video: odorless aerobic two-chamber septic tank
If you wish, you can install an aerobic septic tank yourself. The factory kit of the cleaning system just needs to be assembled according to the instructions. But when arranging wells or settling tanks made of reinforced concrete or brick, you will have to work. But anything is possible. It is also important to correctly connect the electrical equipment and load aerobes into the purification chamber. The main thing is not to make a mistake with the power and size of the septic tank.
A country or country house is good. But as is customary in places far or somewhat remote from cities, there is no water supply or sewerage system. Sewerage installation is very important stage in order to live comfortably outside the city. But sometimes the services of specialized companies are expensive, and unjustifiably so. So why overpay if you can install wastewater treatment plants in a private home with your own hands? How? We will now tell you in detail.
What are wastewater treatment plants?
Before you start arranging treatment facilities in your home, you need to decide which type will suit you in terms of consumer characteristics, price, and the possibility of self-installation:
- A wastewater storage tank is cesspools, in which a filter bottom and sealed cesspools are equipped.
- Devices that process wastewater, namely septic tanks, biological stations deep cleaning, biofilters and aeration tanks.
If you dig deeper, you can install any of these systems yourself without involving specialists, well, unless you need a couple of friends and free time. But, before equipping one type or another, you need to figure out how suitable it is for you.
cesspool
This is the cheapest option that can be used for a private home. Before I talk about how to equip it with your own hands, I would like to clarify some points about it. This type has been used for a very long time, it has some advantages:
- The materials available for the arrangement are, one might say, junk, and besides, not a lot of them are needed.
- The design is simple.
- Elementary installation.
But, despite the obvious advantages, it is also necessary to consider the disadvantages, since they can influence the final choice:
- Over time, there will be a need to clean the pit using vacuum trucks, which is far from cheap.
- Not every site has access to special equipment; you need to take care of this so you don’t have to worry about cleaning it later.
- There is also a restriction on the distance to a source of drinking water.
- Such a pit pollutes the soil.
The wastewater, entering through the sewer pipe, is drained into a pit in which a sand and gravel cushion is provided. From there, the liquid seeps into the ground, and the solid waste remains on the bed. Over time, it fills up and requires pumping out.
There are more modern version- this is a sealed cesspool, but here the need to call a sewer can arise very often, especially if you live in the house regularly. In order to minimize the number of calls to special services, you need to choose a large capacity.
We will tell you further how to arrange both options.
Standard cesspool
Since ancient times, people have used cesspools. Then the walls of the dug hole were coated with clay, and the toilet itself was on the street. Today, of course, such “technologies” are no longer used.
digging a well to install treatment facilities for a private home Whatever option you choose, the first thing you need to do is dig a hole of the required size. Concrete rings, bricks, even old tires are suitable for its arrangement. In the latter case, than larger diameter, all the better.
With the use of concrete rings, the technology is somewhat different. To do this, you need to install a ring in the chosen place, then climb inside it and dig: as you dig, the ring will lower. Do the same with the next ring until required depth. Then you need to fill the bottom with a sand and gravel cushion. In most cases, three or four rings will be enough. You also need to remember to provide an outlet for drainage, namely: a hole for a pipe that will lead the drainage to the required location.
When using old tires, you can proceed either in the same way as with concrete rings, or dig a hole in advance. In the second option for laying tires, compact the soil around them so that there is no space between them and the wall of the pit. If applicable brickwork, then holes are dug in advance approximately the same size as the hole will be. Then it is simply covered with brick using standard masonry mortar. Don't forget to wall up the pipe or leave room for it.
This structure must be covered from above so that it does not emit odors, rainwater does not get in there, or no one falls. It is also advisable to provide vent and a pumping well.
Please note: this type is not suitable if there are a lot of drains for a number of reasons:
- The soil is not able to absorb very large amounts of water.
- Taking into account the fact that the filtration will be rough, the liquid that gets into the soil will be under-purified, which means that sewage will get into it and pollute it.
Sealed pits
To arrange them, you need to purchase a special container. Today, the most common are plastic pits; their sizes vary from one to dozens of cubes, so you can choose by size. But here a problem arises: first of all, it needs to be transported somehow, and then installed in the place intended for it. This cannot be done entirely without the use of special equipment. Next we will present the sequence of work:
- Digging a hole. If a large container is expected, then digging it out is not so easy, and it is better to use the services of an excavator. If you are not bothered by the not very harmonious appearance of the container, then there is no need to bury it at all.
- Screed. In most cases, the container is still hidden underground, but first the hole needs to be strengthened. To do this, you need to reinforce and pour a small concrete screed.
- Installing the container. After preparation, you can install a container in the resulting pit. It can be of different shapes, so most likely it will have to be covered with a layer of soil on top so that only the pumping well remains on the surface.
When arranging this type of sewage treatment system for a private home with your own hands, you need to take into account some important factors. For example, do not wait until the container is filled to the brim: there should be at least a meter of distance between the lid and the drains. Take care of ventilation, this way you can get rid of the strong smell when opening the hatch cover. So, when setting up this type of pit, take care of convenient access for special equipment.
installation of concrete rings without a bottom for drainage A closed cesspool has the following advantages:
- It can be installed in any convenient location, since it does not pollute the soil and sources of drinking water.
- This cesspool is perfect for country house, because it does not require high maintenance costs.
Septic tank, or how to rationally use wastewater
Another option: make your own septic tank. It is a design of one, two, three or four containers. The more there are, the better the cleaning will be. At the maximum level of such filtration, it is even possible to use wastewater for technical purposes, for example, for watering or cleaning the territory.
installation of special septic tanks with a system for treating wastewater and draining into the ground The essence of the operation of this treatment plant is that wastewater, entering one chamber, settles in it for some time. Heavy particles precipitate, then the resulting liquid passes into the next chamber. After these processes, the liquid enters the aeration field, where it is purified using soil bacteria, which in top layer there is a lot of soil. In order to make such a structure with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate all its parameters and take into account the features and performance, which will primarily depend on the size of the septic tank.
It is very important to determine correct sizes septic tank Here we take into account the amount of waste that the residents of the house will produce in two days. Now we are talking about the calculation for the first chamber, since for the smaller ones a similar calculation goes into knocks. So, knowing that the approximate amount of wastewater per day for one person is 200 liters, this figure should be multiplied by 3 days, since the process of filtering wastewater in a septic tank can last up to 3 days. In total, we get 600 liters in three days, but this is subject to one person living, if more, then 600 must be multiplied by the number of people permanently living in the house, which means using water for washing dishes, taking a shower, using the toilet. Having made such simple calculations, it is better to round the resulting figure up. For example, if three people live, we will get a figure of 1800 liters, that is, it is better to take a septic tank for 2000 liters.
You can also calculate the size of the septic tank if you have a water meter. Here you also need to calculate three days in advance; it is best to include two weekends and one weekday during this period, since it is on weekends that the water consumption is greater, and therefore the load on the septic tank is greater.
Scheme of the treatment system
Before creating such a treatment system, it is necessary to develop its diagram. We will offer the simplest one that can be implemented. The basic system includes:
- A septic tank can be made from concrete rings, European cups, or it can simply be a pit in which the walls are lined with concrete. There should be at least two cameras here.
- The aeration field where post-treatment will take place.
When arranging a septic tank, you need to take into account that best result can be obtained using three cameras.
The entire structure must be sloped. First, there is a pipe going downhill to the septic tank tanks. Each section of the septic tank must have its own hatch to control its filling. Next comes an overflow pipe of at least two meters. The filtration field should be from 5 to 20 meters long, and ventilation pipes must be installed above it. On top you need a gravel cushion of at least half a meter.
You can make a septic tank with your own hands from scrap materials. The following factors need to be considered: durability, environmental friendliness, compliance sanitary standards, efficiency. You can make a septic tank from bricks, concrete rings, and Eurocubes.
Septic tank made of concrete rings
Septic tanks made of concrete rings are created no deeper than four meters. For this, four to five standard rings will be enough. The diameter can also be different: from 70 cm to 2 m, this indicator must be taken into account when calculating the required volume. First of all, decide how many wells there will be, where they will be located and where the aeration field will be located.
installation of meter-long concrete rings and fixation in the ground Please note that each ring weighs several hundred kilograms, and this must be taken into account, because, most likely, you will have to use special equipment. But, in principle, you can do it yourself, although you will need helpers. The technology for digging a hole is the same as we described for a cesspool. You need to lay all the rings in sequence in this way. To connect the rings, reinforcement is used, which is welded in the middle of the structure. A screed is poured into the bottom of the septic tank and waterproofing is carried out. The same needs to be done with the joints - they are covered with cement and waterproofed. You need to do the same with the second compartment, but it needs to be made 20% smaller in volume than the first. From the last compartment of the septic tank you need to make an exit to the aeration field.
Septic tank from European cups
Here everything is even simpler, you just need to find or buy similar containers, you can even use them. Here you won’t be able to really expand on the size: the first, second, and subsequent containers will be the same in volume, they just need to be placed 20 cm below the level of the previous compartment. In such a cube you need to make a hole for ventilation; it must be separate for each cube and for the aeration field. Before installing septic tanks, you need to dig a hole. The cubes are not heavy, they can be easily moved and mounted by two people.
installation of a septic tank from eurocubes and an overflow system The containers need to be connected to the pipe that comes from the house, to each other and lead to the aeration field, then this entire structure should be covered with a layer of earth, leaving only ventilation pipes and wells on the surface. Such septic tanks must be cleaned of sediment in order for them to work effectively.
Brick septic tank
When installing a septic tank in a brick pit, you need to decide on the amount of drainage. If there are less than a cube, then one chamber will be enough. A brick septic tank requires a foundation; “walls” should be built on its basis. You first need to dig a hole. Its depth is the volume of the septic tank; we described above how to calculate it. It is also necessary to seal the bottom and consider a sand cushion.
construction of a brick septic tank with complex system filtration and overflow The arrangement of the chamber must begin with the treatment of bricks with mastic, followed by masonry using building concrete. After erecting the structure, it is necessary to process the connection between the wall and the floor of the pit cement mortar. The walls must first be treated with clay, and then plastered, after which the installation of two-layer waterproofing can be organized. For such a septic tank you need reinforced concrete slab for covering. There should be two holes in it - one for the hatch, the second for the ventilation pipe (it can be either plastic or asbestos).
Advantages this option a lot, namely:
- Low price and availability.
- Reliability of design and durability, provided that the work is carried out correctly.
- Ease of arrangement.
- Options for placement and construction, no need to be tied to a cube or cylinder.
- All work can be carried out independently without the assistance of assistants.
- Practicality.
There are, of course, disadvantages, namely:
- The construction process will take a long time and is labor intensive.
- Designs required additional protection from environmental influences.
Important! Do not build a septic tank from a foam block, as it will not withstand the effects of negative factors and will simply disintegrate after a short time.
Other options
The last septic tank option that we would like to talk about is a tire septic tank. This option is cheap and requires less time to implement than the previous one. All work is carried out in stages:
- First you need to make markings. Lay the tire on the ground, which will be the base of the first well, at some distance for the second. If there are more of them, then for subsequent ones. Now you need to dig holes according to the marks.
- Bottom. In any septic tank it should not allow sewage into the ground. That is why it needs to be either concreted or covered with a so-called “clay plug”, that is, a layer of clay of at least 20-25 cm.
- Preparing tires. Everyone needs to cut off the top part, for this use a jigsaw or other suitable tool. By carrying out this operation, it will be possible to obtain smoother edges of the well that will not let runoff into the ground.
- Installation. They need to be stacked one on top of the other. For the stability of the structure, they must be tied together with wire; subsequently, all connecting seams are treated with sealant to prevent leakage of wastewater. At a distance of 2/3 to the bottom, you need to insert a transition pipe through which the drainage will flow into the well from the house.
- The remaining space between the well and the hole should be covered with a layer of earth, for example, use the one that remains after digging it.
- Lid. Any material that is not susceptible to rotting will do.
As you can see, anyone can set up a treatment facility with their own hands, and it is not necessary to spend money on expensive treatment systems. A self-made septic tank will serve faithfully for many years.
Everyone is trying to improve living conditions in country house to the maximum. Why not, for example, arrange a separate recreation area at the dacha - a kind of paradise with a bathhouse, sun loungers, a gazebo for pleasant conversations, a sports ground and, of course, a barbecue or barbecue (as you like). “What's new in this?” you ask. Don't rush to conclusions. The main surprise is ahead. So, thanks to the ability to connect all the necessary communications to the recreation area, you can now receive guests in your piece of paradise at any time. But, if supplying water and lighting to any place on your site is already quite common for any “homemade” project, then the autonomous sewage system of a private house sometimes still raises a number of questions. In this article we will tell you how to organize an autonomous sewage system for a private house based on a deep biological treatment station.
If you are planning to install the drain yourself and have already made a choice in favor of an autonomous sewer system for a private house based on a deep biological treatment station, then you must strictly follow the following procedure:
- On your own, or with the help of a specialist, choose a place to drain the purified water.
- Choose an option for water drainage: with forced or gravity discharge.
- Select the model and manufacturer of the station. And here you can’t do without competent advice from specialists.
Expert advice:
(General Director of the Domostroev company Vitaly Timofeevich Tokarev)
Of course, you need to choose from the main manufacturers of deep biological treatment stations, proven over the years, who have the appropriate documents guaranteeing the reliability of these stations, namely: the necessary certificates of compliance with hygienic standards and a sanitary-epidemiological conclusion. If you find it difficult to give preference to someone, contact a specialist. Specialists will also help you determine the model of the station, its manufacturer, and at the same time select necessary equipment. In addition, they will tell you if you have doubts whether you have chosen the right place for the future station. As a rule, the most optimal solution is to make the sewer route without turns, so as not to install additional inspection wells. Without inspection wells, clearing blockages in pipes with bends will be very problematic.
IN big problem It may also result in the wrong choice between manual and specialized equipment work.
To prevent this from happening, you need to know in what cases to give preference to one or another force.
In what situations is it possible to prepare a pit only manually:
1. When it is impossible for special equipment to enter the site.
2. When during the work there is a real threat of disruption to the already formed landscape.
It’s a completely different story when a wheeled excavator can freely drive up and work directly at the installation site. If the weather and soil are favorable for the rapid development of a pit, then the work of the excavator will take no more than 20-25 minutes. But this is ideal. In practice, such development takes much longer. Much depends on the amount of sand in the soil and the height of the level groundwater. If there is a large amount of both (such soil is called “quicksand”), the work may take up to several hours and the installation of formwork may be required. If there is a large amount of water-saturated loam or clay, the work may take the entire working day.
Sequence of work
Excavation
We will determine the range of our tasks, the number and complexity of which largely depends on the chosen location for installing the biological treatment station. In our example, it is quite traditional - near the bathhouse, specifically - two meters from the main ditch. A shorter distance, according to SNIP rules, is not recommended. Now we are planning the exit location of the sewer pipe. And here we won’t surprise anyone. The route will start from the house. Its length, according to our calculations, is 23 meters to the installation site. The distance is decent, we exceeded the norm by up to 15 meters and, according to the rules, we still cannot do without an additional inspection well.
We don’t have the opportunity to use special equipment, since the passage to the house is too narrow, and we don’t want to spoil the designer landscape. So, we will work manually. The site will require a force of three, or preferably five, people.
We order and deliver sand in advance, which will be needed to create a sand cushion both in the pit and under the pipes (for three or four people, 3-5 cubic meters of sand, this is approximately, it all depends on the installation conditions of the station).
We were lucky, there was sandy soil on the site; there was no need to bring sand.
Materials for installation of an autonomous station
- sewer pipes for outdoor use
- insulation
- bends
- electrical cable
- corrugation
- inspection wells
Model stations must be unloaded in a vertical position.
The installation itself is carried out in three stages
The size of the pit for the station (let's take the average - for 5 people) is 1.5 × 1.5 m wide and 2.3 m deep. To prevent erosion of the pit walls due to high level groundwater (this happens often), we make formwork. In this case, the width of the pit increases by about 0.3 m. This is exactly what we will do. We dig a hole measuring 1.8 by 1.8 m, taking into account the width of the formwork.
Throughout all work, do not forget to take measurements of the depth of the pit. If groundwater does penetrate into the formwork, it is necessary to use a drainage pump.
As soon as the last centimeter is dug, we immediately begin lowering the station so that the pit is not attacked by groundwater and sand.
Station descent
We lower the station into the pit using ropes. Help will be required from everyone present on the site. This procedure does not tolerate fuss.
Then, we fill all compartments of the station with water. At the same time, we level the station body and sprinkle it, compacting the sand so that the station does not sag along with the soil. The septic tank is filled, like water, to the upper level of the station.
We fall asleep, but not completely, since we still have to connect the highways - input and output.
Digging a supply trench
For sewer pipes(diameter 110 mm), we dig a trench 0.5-0.6 m wide in order to feel the stability of our feet during installation. It will be impossible to arrange a high-quality sand cushion any other way. At the entrance to the station, we leave 0.6 m to the depth of the supply pipe. Thus, the trench is dug along the entire length with a depth of 0.2 to 0.7 m with a slight (3 percent) uniform slope towards the station along the entire length. Then the bottom of the trench is leveled with sand.
We fill the sand cushion along its entire length at a slope of 3 cm per meter. We compact it by checking the level. Then, only part of the main line is laid out from the pipes and on the wall of the receiving chamber we mark the place where the main line will be inserted.
For external laying of the main we use specially red colored pipes. Even before laying, do not forget to put thermal insulation on the pipes, which greatly simplifies the entire installation of the route.
1. Using a prepared crown, cut a hole in the wall of the receiving chamber.
2. We seal the joint seam using polypropylene solder. We apply it with a special nozzle of a hair dryer.
Now we can install an inspection walk-through well on our long route, as prescribed by SNIP. Important note: the well must be made of special materials that are resistant to temperature changes, exposure to ultraviolet radiation and soil pressure.
The very exit of the sewer pipe from the house is nothing more than a vertical “riser”, which is necessarily insulated to a height ground floor. A tee is used to connect the vertical and horizontal parts of the riser in case of clearing a blockage.
When we have laid the entire route, we make a fixing sprinkling to prevent disturbances in the slope of the pipes and its shift towards the septic tank. Then we lay the electrical cable (in a protective corrugation) in black.
Now we need a drainage trench device in drainage ditch. It will be located near the station. We are planning a gravity drainage system for treated wastewater, so we lay pipes in insulation right up to the ditch. There are literally two meter steps to the ditch, so we use pipes with a diameter of 110 mm.
It must be taken into account that the wastewater from the treatment plant is warm all year round. Considering this fact, in the process of laying under the roadway, double-walled corrugated pipes, mostly, but there are also mistakes. And not only in this case.
Pressure polyethylene pipes(HDPE) with a cross-section of 25 mm are used and placed with a counter angle for forced abduction. In the winter season, it is recommended to lay a self-regulating heating cable along the entire length of the main line, with additional thermal insulation.
We dig a trench for the outlet main and clear the bottom of the trench for a sand cushion under the pipe (with a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 m).
The pipe in the insulation is laid on sand. Then it is connected to the station using a pipe with a diameter of 11 cm.
We complete the installation by exiting the drainage system into a deep drainage ditch.
The penultimate stage - we insert the electrical cable through a sealed input on the cable wall and connect it to the control unit (we do this according to the diagram). Next, we connect the lamp, as well as the float, alarm system. Such a system is necessary to increase the reliability of the entire autonomous sewer system. Thus, you will always be aware of the station's operation around the clock.
If we consider the situation with forced emission, then two electrical appliances are installed inside the station - a compressor and a drainage pump, and sometimes a heating cable is connected.
This needs to be remembered:
1. The compressor is secured with a clamp to the air duct and the power cable is connected to a socket located inside the station.
2. A drainage pump is installed in the container for treated waste and connected to the socket with a cable. 3) the output line is connected to the pump, sometimes with a heating cable.
In the summer, the cable can be disconnected to save electricity; we recommend not excluding this possibility.
We power the end of the electrical cable brought into the house to the panel (to a separate circuit breaker). It is a good idea to install a voltage stabilizer in your home. It will protect electrical appliances from power surges.
Now we have reached the victorious end - the preliminary launch. We connect all the elements of our system, check the functionality of all airlift pumps and phase switching. We also check the work drain pump and heating cable. In case of forced ejection, it must be uninterrupted.
Now is the time to start completely backfilling the station and all the trenches, which can easily be disguised as a lawn with flowers. And surround the station with a beautiful pattern of stones. Yes, and don’t forget, for the good of the matter, to undergo training in station maintenance.
A biological treatment station guarantees efficient processing of wastewater at the dacha. The method of operation of the structure with a high degree of purification is borrowed from nature. The main work here is performed by microorganisms. According to reviews from owners, the equipment is trouble-free and easy to install.
The basis for the operation of a biological treatment plant is the vital activity of microorganisms present in the wastewater. Special conditions have been created here for their reproduction - air is pumped in, without which the bacteria are not able to decompose waste. In fact, this is a copy of natural processes in miniature.
Construction of a biological treatment station SBO is a tank with several chambers inside. How many such chambers are there in the tank, how many degrees of purification does the biostation have? Each camera has a specific function:
- First, the water entering the first compartment settles, large inclusions settle at its bottom. Subsequently, the sediment must be removed periodically.
- The next camera is the activator. The air necessary for the life of microorganisms is supplied to it through a compressor. Here an anaerobic process occurs, resulting in activated sludge.
- The third chamber is another settling tank, where the processed product - sludge - is pumped out.
- From the secondary settling tank, 98% purified water flows into the last chamber.
The sludge resulting from the work of bacteria is an excellent fertilizer, and water that has passed all stages of purification is suitable for irrigation. So at the dacha this installation brings double benefits.
Attention! There is no need to replenish the bacterial colony by introducing preparations intended for dry closets. There will be no benefit from them here, because... completely different microorganisms populate there.
Pros and cons of a biological treatment plant
If you compare it with a septic tank, then the aeration tank has a lot of advantages:
- the degree of purification is higher;
- there is no intolerable odor;
- compact parameters;
Scheme treatment facilities - environmental friendliness;
- simple installation - installed both underground and above, and deepened halfway;
- no special requirements for soils;
- frost resistance;
- exclusion of such a service as calling a sewer truck.
The operation of a biological treatment plant is impossible without electricity, so if the dacha is located in an area where electricity is supplied with great interruptions, then it is better not to install such a system. The disadvantage may be the rather high price of the station. The purchase will be justified if a large volume of wastewater is to be processed.
Attention! Do not pour compounds containing chlorine down the drain, otherwise the bacteria will die. Therefore, water from washing and dishwashers should be drained separately. Colonies of bacteria do not survive even if the station is idle for a long time.
Station installation
The SBO installation process consists of the following stages:
- Making a pit, including digging it, compacting the bottom, and installing a loading slab if the groundwater is located close to the surface.
- Lowering the station into the prepared pit.
- Filling the pit with sand, carried out in stages and accompanied by compaction.
- Pipe installation and electrical cable supply.
- Ground leveling.
Scheme of arrangement of a biological treatment station at the dacha To complete the installation work efficiently, you should take into account some features of the process:
- The location for the station should be chosen at a short distance from country house.
- It is better to install SBO on a concrete slab.
- When backfilling a bioreactor, the first step is to fill the edges with sand, then add soil.
- When the power of the station is low, the compressor and timer are placed in a special well located next to the reactor. The control unit can be installed externally.
- Cables and air ducts are placed in protective covers.
- If sewage water cannot get into the chamber by gravity, then an additional pumping station is needed.
Advice. The sludge is pumped out 1 or 2 times a year. At the same time, preventive maintenance work is performed on the SBO. It's better to have professionals do it.
Popular models of biological treatment stations
Among the SBOs suitable for dachas, the following models are used:
Deep biological treatment station BIOTANK 1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
The main purpose of sewerage in a country house is the collection, purification and further disposal of wastewater generated when water is used for economic and hygienic purposes. Also, a country sewer system for a dacha can cope with the processing of feces. At any dacha where people sometimes live, it is necessary to equip a sewer system that will create normal living conditions.
An important component of civilized life is the presence of sewerage and running water. Residents apartment buildings do not think about how sewer systems function, since all waste flows into a sewer maintained by city utilities.
Wastewater is waste water from sinks, bathtubs, kitchen sinks, as well as feces from the toilet. They are discharged through an internal pipeline outside the house, and then into the street sewer network.
If there is no centralized drainage, then you have to install your own sewerage system to remove and treat wastewater.
In such cases, you can create:
- alloy construction (thawed and rainwater enter the treatment plant along with domestic wastewater);
- separate system (in this case, separate drains are created for melt and rainwater).
The simplest sewage system for a summer residence is created with your own hands from the following elements:
- yard external network;
- treatment facilities;
- brownie internal network with plumbing fixtures.
Sewage scheme at the dacha
Before starting to create a sewer system, be sure to make a diagram of the location of its main elements. It also identifies the home and the plumbing fixtures being serviced. It is recommended to “tie” all plumbing to one collector, which will direct the drains to the same place. Read also: "".
In the event that sewage comes from different ends site, then sometimes it is necessary to create more points for waste disposal. When laying pipes, it is necessary to determine the depth of soil freezing, as well as the groundwater level. Read also: "".
Choosing a location for a sewer system near a country house
When choosing a location for a sewer pit, the soil and terrain features are examined, taking into account:- distance from buildings, fences and water supply elements;
- slope of the site;
- Possibility of access of special equipment to clean the pit.
According to construction and sanitary standards, the sewage pit must be removed from residential buildings at a distance of at least 5 meters. It is better to install a sump tank at the lowest point of the site to facilitate the flow of wastewater into it.A correctly drawn up project allows you to avoid overuse of pipes and comply with all the nuances (when creating a sewer system, it is necessary to take into account the location of the telephone cable, gas main and other communications). It is important that water supply and sewerage systems do not overlap.
Construction of a sewerage system
Currently, a biological treatment station for a summer residence is popular. In modern areas, septic tanks are common because they are more efficient than traditional pit cesspools. These devices are capable of cleaning wastewater and bring them into the ground. Of course, sometimes it will be necessary to call a sewer truck, but such a need will arise much less frequently than when creating a regular pit.
In order to build an effective sewer system with a septic tank, you need to follow the instructions exactly.
In progress:
- A pit is dug approximately 3 meters deep; after completion of the work, the bottom is compacted with a layer of clay.
- If concrete is used, the walls are formworked. For this you will need: wooden beam, OSB sheets, plastic pipe scraps (read also: " ").
- After formwork, its sheets are fixed in the pit. For this purpose, a wooden beam is used - it is used to wedge the formwork sheets in the pit. After the structure is securely fastened and wedged, the pipe pieces are inserted into pre-created holes. The pipes are driven into the ground at least 50 mm so that they do not turn out under the influence of concrete, which may then fall into the pit.
- Metal rods are used to reinforce the walls - this design will be much stronger. A special hole is required for the pipe entry.
It is advisable that the septic tank be located no more than 15-20 meters from the foundation of the house, but no closer than 5 meters. To calculate the required capacity of the device, you need to multiply the daily rate of waste per person by the number of residents. - The bottom of the septic tank is filled with concrete. As for the walls, the concrete or brick used in their construction is plastered. After filling one part of the pit, the solution is allowed to dry for 2-3 days, then the formwork is moved to the other two walls, and concrete is poured again.
- Depending on the depth of groundwater and soil type, filter devices are selected. One of the most reliable options is a well made of reinforced concrete rings with a diameter of 1500 millimeters.
- A shaft is dug; its size must exceed the diameter of the rings by 80 centimeters.
- Performed around the perimeter concrete screed, and the center must remain free so that wastewater can seep into the ground.
- 3 rings are placed into the hole using a crane.
- In the lowest of them, holes with a diameter of 5 centimeters are drilled using a hammer drill, the distance between them should be approximately 10 centimeters.
- The well is filled with filter material to a height of about 1 meter. The backfill used is soil, gravel, broken brick and other small materials.
- The same backfill is done between the outside walls of the well and the rings. The inlet pipe is installed 500 millimeters above the backfill level so that it enters the well through a side hole in the reinforced concrete ring.
- A hatch with two holes is installed: for the cover and for the exhaust riser (500 and 100 millimeters, respectively).
In addition to a septic tank, it is recommended to create a filter well on unstable soil.
Laying sewer pipes
When installing a sewer system in a dacha, not only is a septic tank installed, but pipes are also laid, and in compliance with all building codes. The system must have a sufficient slope so that the movement of wastewater is spontaneous.The farther the drainage pit is from the house, the deeper the pipe entrance should be. If this rule is not followed, then the wastewater will not drain on its own, so you will have to use a pump to pump it out. This will lead to unnecessary costs and troubles.Sewage systems for summer cottages are created from cast iron or plastic pipes. Plastic products must be sealed with a rubber gasket, and cast iron ones are sealed with tarred heel and covered with cement mortar.
To lay the pipeline, a trench with a depth of at least 1 meter is dug, otherwise they will have to be insulated. Typically, the depth at which pipes are laid depends on the average winter temperature. For example, in regions with a warm climate, the depth of the trenches can be 70 centimeters, and in areas with harsh winters it must be increased to 180 centimeters.
In unstable soil, the bottom of the dug trench is strengthened with a layer of sand about 15 centimeters thick. The ditch is then covered with soil and compacted.
It is better to lay pipes without turns, since it is in these areas that blockages most often form. If this is not possible, then a viewing well is installed in this place, which is sealed with concrete, and in some situations with hot bitumen.
Internal sewer network
After building a septic tank and laying pipes, an internal sewer network is installed. The house network ensures the collection of wastewater and its delivery to the street sewer system.Self-created internal system as follows:
- Sinks, bathtub, washbasin and other plumbing fixtures are connected to a riser with a diameter of 50 millimeters. The devices are connected using a pipe of the same diameter with a slope that does not exceed 25 millimeters per linear meter.
- At the outlet of any plumbing fixture, water seals are installed that prevent unpleasant odors enter the house.
- The toilet requires a riser with a diameter of 100 millimeters, and the pipes are laid at an angle not exceeding 12 millimeters. According to SNiP, a large slope should not be created, since in this case sewer system will often get clogged.
- All risers are connected to a collection sewer water supply system, which removes wastewater from the house. Its diameter should be 100 millimeters.
- A small window measuring 300x300 millimeters is created in the basement wall or in the foundation of the house to lead the sewer network from the building to the street (read also: "").
- A pipe is placed into the hole made. Be sure to leave a gap of at least 150 millimeters. Otherwise, the pipe may be damaged when the building shrinks.
Sewerage on summer cottage You can do it yourself, you just need some skills. There are several options autonomous sewers, and each site owner can choose the type of system that meets his requirements and capabilities. The most modern look sewerage is a structure with a septic tank in which wastewater is treated and then disposed of in the ground without causing harm environment. For a sewer system to be effective, it is important to comply with all building codes.
