Greetings, dear readers. I have a neighbor next door. We've been friends for a long time. He recently bought a plot of land with a dilapidated house and decided to update it a little, including replacing the old ones wooden windows on PVC. After taking measurements, it turned out that you can buy the exact size in Leroy and not waste time on window companies. So he bought these ready-made windows, but doesn’t know how to install them. He came to me for advice on which fasteners to choose. Well, how can you refuse him, let’s go together, choose, buy.
In fact, there are now a lot of different fasteners for double-glazed windows on the market. This can confuse an unprepared person. Websites and magazines praise this or that fastener. But the durability of the double-glazed window and its reliable installation depend on the choice of the correct fasteners.
Therefore, I decided to write an article about the types of fasteners and how they differ from each other.
Anchor dowel or anchor
The fasteners are professional and reliable. The design of the anchor dowel consists of a threaded screw, a metal shell (sleeve) and an internal sleeve.
When screwing the screw, the bushing expands the sleeve and the fastener is securely fixed. But such fasteners have one main drawback. It is fixed so securely that sometimes it is impossible to remove it back.
When you install a plastic window, you don’t think about it. But if during the process the window becomes crooked and it needs to be reinstalled, then the problem will reveal itself. And from my own experience I know that when drilling, sometimes you can get into the reinforcement and then you will have to drill a new hole. And this will lead to the fact that the entire structure can be turned around to a terrible state.
If you are installing a window in a house with multi-layer walls, e.g. panel series P-44, then there will be difficulties with fastening. The fact is that the anchor in such walls simply falls through and the spacer cannot be fixed.
The length of the anchor for installing a plastic window varies between 100-200 mm, thickness 8-10 mm. You need to choose the length of the anchor based on the distance from the frame to the slope. The anchor bolt is attached with inside glass unit. If the profile thickness is 4 cm, plus the anchor should enter the wall 4 cm, then 8 cm is already occupied. If the distance from the frame to the slope is a couple of cm, then you will need an anchor 110 mm long, if 5-7 cm, then a 150 or 160 mm anchor.
Screws for concrete
Regular screws are also suitable for fastening windows. Their advantages over anchors are that they can be easily dismantled if necessary.
The size range of a concrete screw (or nigel) is the same as that of an anchor bolt. From 100 to 200 mm in length and 8-10 mm in diameter. You need to choose the length of the screw in the same way as for an anchor.
Anchor plates
I already wrote about attaching double-glazed windows to anchor plates in. This is one of the most popular types of fastening in window companies.
Anchor plates are:
- rotary;
- non-rotating.
Read how to use this fastener for PVC windows in the article to which I provided the link above. Everything is described in detail in it.
It is worth noting the advantages anchor plates:
- There is no need to drill through the frame, as is done with an anchor or screw;
- The presence of reinforcement in the wall will not affect the fasteners in any way. The plate can be rotated.
- Mounting on plates helps out in “complicated” houses. For example, the same P-44 series.
The standard plate size is 100-200 mm. Since the plate is attached to the outer edge of the frame, a length of 130 mm is enough for any home.
I note that each manufacturer PVC profile There are products with different widths, so the plates need the appropriate size. Finding products in large construction hypermarkets is not a problem. But my advice to you is that it’s better to order the fasteners along with the window.
How to attach plastic windows to brick?
Brick is good material for the construction of buildings. But attaching PVC windows to brick is sometimes problematic. What exactly is the difficulty?
If you use a frame dowel, then it is better to drill holes in the frame for this dowel not in advance, but locally. This is necessary in order to get the anchor directly into the middle of the brick, and not into the mortar between the bricks. Of course, no one does this (by the way, neither do I). After all, this is a waste of time.
It is advisable to choose the frame dowel as long as possible (minimum penetration into the brick is 6 - 10 cm). If the brick is hollow, then use the 202nd anchor.
You can use anchor plates in brick if you are sure that the brick is not hollow. But even solid brick can be of poor quality. And it will be very difficult for a non-professional to attach the plate into it.
Fastening plastic windows in a wooden house
The ideal option for installing windows for wood is anchor plates. And no one can convince me of this. Frame houses or timber - only plates.
From my bitter experience, I’ll tell you how I fastened windows with screws to the top of the frame in a house made of timber. And there was a casing, and a gap of about 4 cm. A year later, the timber began to shrink, and these screws, together with the timber, went straight into the double-glazed windows.
As a result, several double-glazed windows were replaced under warranty. Got the money. After this incident, if I use screws, then only in exceptional cases and only in the side parts of the window frame.
By the way, even when building frame houses, professionals do not recommend using hardened screws. Wood is a living material and when moved, screws break, and a nail, for example, bends. The same principle applies to the anchor plate.
Anchor plates for wooden houses good for the following reasons:
- Quick window installation;
- Compensates for thermal expansion;
- They do not affect window structures during shrinkage.
How to attach plastic windows to aerated concrete?
The aerated concrete wall is loose. Can be mounted on a frame dowel with a maximum length of 202 mm. This is the easiest and fastest way.
But it’s better to fasten plastic windows onto the anchor plates through a special dowel for aerated concrete. It's a little longer and more complicated. In addition, you need to buy or have a hex bat in your arsenal.
How to fix plastic windows in concrete?
If you mean concrete good quality, from which, for example, lintels are made over window openings, then drilling such concrete with a diameter of 10 mm under a frame dowel is a bit difficult, but it is possible.
In this case, it is better to use anchor plates. But it is more efficient to attach panel and block houses to a frame dowel. It's more reliable and faster.
At the beginning of the article, I said that the choice of fasteners for windows also depends on the type of structure. So I want to talk about this type of glazing of loggias and balconies.
As a rule, the window fasteners fall into the very edge of the top concrete slab or into the edge of a brick bottom and side wall. Therefore, attaching loggias to the edge of the wall using a frame dowel can be quite dangerous.
Anchor plates are a great way out of the situation.
And finally, I would like to say about the big advantage of anchors, which is at the same time a disadvantage for anchor plates.
When the window frame is attached to anchors, at the time of drilling you level only one vertical plane. And you adjust the second vertical plane after inserting the anchor.
When fastening with anchor plates, you will have to set two vertical planes and only after that make holes with a hammer drill. This requires certain skill and skill.
Reading time: 7 minutes.
Until recently, exclusively wooden window frames were used in the glazing of residential buildings and industrial buildings. Today, many consider them relics of the past and are in a hurry to replace them with modern metal-plastic structures. Indeed, in addition to high performance characteristics, they are much cheaper wooden frames. To install plastic windows with your own hands, you don’t need to have superpowers. Almost any person who can hold a tool in their hands can cope with such a task.
However, do not forget that each job requires certain skills and craftsmanship. Lack of experience in installing windows can lead to a number of troubles. These are systematic breakdowns, loose fit and high throughput of street air into the apartment.
To avoid the above points, in this article we will provide step by step instructions, which will help you install your windows correctly and efficiently. If you still decide to trust professionals, know that some of them are not really professionals, and for a number of reasons they openly neglect certain stages of proper installation (some save time, others save money). Having an idea of the work being carried out, you can easily exercise independent control over the entire process. And subsequently you will enjoy the high-quality operation of your windows, which will bring joy to all family members.
The main stages of installing new windows:
- taking measurements;
- dismantling old windows;
- preparing openings;
- installation of a metal-plastic structure.
Not everyone knows that the manufacturer gives absolutely no guarantee for its services when installing windows. on our own. Therefore, if various troubles arise during the installation process, you should not hope for a return or replacement. All metal-plastic structures are manufactured strictly according to pre-agreed dimensions. If you make a mistake, the window may not fit in the opening or may end up being much smaller. And it will only be your fault. The company's employees are solely responsible for the implementation of each stage of product installation.
Also, any inaccuracy made when installing a metal-plastic window will deprive you and your loved ones of all advantages modern design and expected level of comfort.
Window measurements
When taking the necessary measurements, you need to pay attention to the fact that window openings exist with and without a quarter. Accordingly, their formulas for calculating sizes are different. 
For the first case, we must measure the width of the opening between the existing quarters, this is done at the narrowest point. And then add 3-4 cm to the resulting figures - this will be the width of our plastic frame. In addition, it is important to check: the largest distance between the vertical quarters should not exceed the design width of the block.
Read also: "Kärcher" for washing windows: features of use and advantages
The height is determined by measuring between the top quarter and bottom surface of the window opening.
If the window opening is without a quarter, the required values can be obtained by subtracting 5 cm from the vertical dimension (to place a window sill) and 3 cm from the horizontal dimension.
When determining the size of the window sill and ebb, it is worth considering the following details:
- Often the size of a window sill is chosen based on its functionality. It should cover the heating radiators and house flowers should be placed on it;
- The length of the window sill is taken to be 8-10 cm longer than the window opening, its edges should be recessed into the cavity of the slope by approximately 4-5 cm;
- The dimensions of the ebb are calculated taking into account the planned insulation. It is recommended to leave it protruding 5-10 cm from the wall.
Features of measuring balcony windows
When calculating the width balcony windows The length of the parapet is taken as the basis; the entire structure will rest on it. Also, on both sides it is necessary to subtract 6-7 cm, which will be needed for installation corner profile, with the help of it they connect window blocks front and side parts. The distance from the roof to the railing, with the exception of the difference of 2.5-3 cm, which is important to set aside for gaps for fastening, will be the height.
Regarding the side balcony frames, their dimensions are determined in the same way. The only thing is that you need to subtract 6-7 cm from the width to install the corner profile, as well as 2.5-3 cm for the gap from the wall to the window.
Features of window measurements in private houses and old buildings
When taking measurements of windows in private houses and old buildings, it is recommended to first knock off part of the slopes on both sides (in the measurement areas). This is done in order to see what the space occupied by the window opening is like. It often happens that there are dilapidated cement mortar and various insulation materials that can crumble during the process of dismantling the existing window. The positive point here is that the new plastic structure can be slightly enlarged by expanding the cleaned window opening. 
Ordering a metal-plastic window
Before contacting a company with an order, you should think about what type of double-glazed window is right for you. It can be one-, two- or three-chamber. As for fittings and fasteners, you can also choose them yourself.
WITH technical characteristics The manufacturer's consultants will help you figure out which plastic windows will be preferable for your home at the time of ordering.
Some important points during installation
When installing windows yourself, you should pay attention to the following:
- the metal-plastic structure must be well secured;
- The mounting foam used to fix the windows must be plastered on both sides (this will prevent it from sagging and deforming the frame in the future);
- It is very important to align the structure vertically and horizontally using a level (this will help avoid warping).
How to install metal-plastic windows with your own hands
Before starting installation, prepare everything you need for work:
- Window frame with fasteners;
- Building level;
- Polyurethane foam;
- Mount;
- Bulgarian;
- Windowsill.
The process of preparing a window block
Window preparation is important stage installation work that you do yourself. If necessary, the double-glazed windows and hinged sashes themselves are dismantled from the window structure. To release the double-glazed window, a chisel is used; very carefully, you need to use it to pick out the glazing bead (fastening) and after a light blow on the tool it will come out of the grooves. Then the vertical fasteners are removed, top and bottom. The released glazing beads will need to be marked; sometimes their sizes can differ significantly, which will lead to the formation of gaps of several millimeters. The glass unit will come out of the grooves on its own if you tilt the frame a little. Gently lean it against the wall, creating a slight angle.
If you are planning to replace or install new windows, you will need to learn the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands or by hiring a third-party company. It takes approximately 4 hours to dismantle and install the structure if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will not take more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows yourself requires some construction skills.
Window system components
Before you begin installation, you need to understand the nuances and details. First, you should find out all the names of parts and materials. The main load-bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from a plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. IN plastic systems This insert is made of plastic; metal is used in metal-plastic ones.
The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers
In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the plant are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. In terms of color, white windows are most often found, but other colors can be used: wood, brown. Products made from colored profiles will be more expensive than white ones.
Components of a plastic window
Main element window block - frame The design of a plastic window includes the following parts:
- frame – the main structural part;
- if you have big window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
- the part that is motionless is called blind, and the part that opens is called the sash;
- double-glazed windows can have different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
- In order for the glass to hold securely, they are pressed with a bead, which is a thin plastic strip. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
- fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
- in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
- Ventilated holes for drainage are made on the inside of the frame, which are covered with caps. Moisture generated by differences temperature regime on the street and inside the room, gets out through them;
- another part of the structure is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
- parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.
Is it possible to install the window yourself?
There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know during installation? To perform these works, you do not need special professional tools and equipment, or vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:
- dismantling the old window block;
- installation of a new window.
Removing an old window takes an average of 1.5 hours If we talk about the time required to complete the work, the first stage will require approximately an hour and a half. Installing windows yourself will take less than three hours. It must be said that if you nevertheless decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should demand certain guarantees from them.
If you installed the tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase structures directly from a manufacturer who has been working on the market for a long time, has good feedback from clients. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in winter, you can always count on a significant discount.
When a window is purchased from a company that carries out installation work, then the customer has a warranty on the fittings for about 5 years. If you install it yourself, you can get a warranty directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.
In order for the windows to be installed in brick house, cinder block, gas block or apartment, you must first order a tilt-and-turn or blind structure from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.
Step-by-step instructions for correct measurements
When you place an order, you will be asked to indicate the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.
Before ordering a window, you must take correct measurements of the structure. Before you start measuring, don't miss important point– what type of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, it means there is a quarter-sized opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: you need to measure the narrowest part, you will need to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done as follows: after measuring the width, subtract 3 cm; measuring the height, minus 5 cm. Read a detailed article about.
Before taking measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter To determine the size of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes slightly beyond the radiator.
In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide which components your design will be made: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Don’t forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).
If you order several designs at the same time, the width of all openings may be different, but the height should be the same; you must choose the smallest size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor. In apartments, the distance from the floor to the window is approximately 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be anything at the discretion of the owners.
Features of measurements for glazing balconies
To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure the length of the part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm on each side. This distance will be required for the installation of the corner profile to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, and a tolerance of 3 cm must be subtracted for the gap.
How to correctly measure windows in a country house
To correctly measure the dimensions of a structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that when the structure is dismantled, some of the materials with which the space was filled will also be removed.
Preparing to install a window structure
After you remove the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that may fall off or collapse; if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large depressions, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with primer.
The base will need to be cleaned before installation. Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare the PVC window, which is to be installed. To do this, you need to remove the window sashes; if it is solid, double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.
Installation Technology Guide
The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on support blocks and leveled horizontally. After this, using a level, the window is aligned vertically and secured in this position with spacer blocks.
Installation of both fixed windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without expansion of the structure. When using the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.
When installing a window using the unpacking method, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, into which anchors are then driven in. 
Places for attaching anchors and support blocks If the installation is carried out without unpacking the frame, the window is fastened using special ones, which are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be taken into account that under significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount it on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live has a strong wind load or windows will be installed at a height, then you should use the option of unsealing the frame.
Mounting on anchor plates 
There are nuances to placing a window in the opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, brick, cinder block, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed 2/3 deep from the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam plastic, then the fastening must be done before the insulating layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, the window is installed in the insulation zone.
It is very important to choose the correct installation depth The installation sequence must be followed:
- Having inserted the frame, level it using support and spacer blocks;
- then attach it to the wall;
- after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
- then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms; to do this, open and close the window;
- after everything has been checked, the doors must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this purpose they use .
However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with sun rays and the external environment, the material loses its properties and is destroyed. To protect it, you need to create, this can be a special film that needs to be glued to the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.
To be fulfilled correct installation both on windows and, follow simple rules:
- we install the ebb from the outside in a special slot in the frame or attach it to it with self-tapping screws;
- the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to trim it from the edges so that it fits the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the stand profile;
- the level is leveled using special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.
According to the principle described above, windows are installed on a balcony or loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be carried by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.
Mistakes you can make when installing windows
There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has long term uses:
- you cannot install the window with the glazing beads facing outward, as this reduces the structure’s burglary resistance, since the glazing bead can easily be pulled out and the glass unit removed;
- you need to be careful about leveling the structures when installing the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
- It is imperative to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight to avoid its destruction;
- it would be wrong to choose to fix the frame structure only polyurethane foam: It is imperative to attach it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.
By following all the installation rules, you can successfully install the window structure yourself, and if you seek the services of professionals, you will be able to monitor their work at any stage.
When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Company employees who do this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of “professionals”. They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky to find truly masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not, take a weekend and install it yourself.
Construction of plastic windows
To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an understanding of window design. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.
The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.
In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, an insert is visible of blue color. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.
There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. Optimal choice, if you need normal windows, use the standard class. In economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment they are installed. Premium has a high price due to options that, in fact, are not needed.
If you want to have best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. There is no particular difference between products from different companies. They have long been standardized and all managers’ stories about the advantages are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.
Window profiles as standard have White color, but they can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - to order. Windows made from colored profiles are more expensive than similar white ones.
Window structure
To understand what is being discussed in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.
It consists of:
- Frames. This is the base of the window.
- If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is made of two parts, there is one impost; If there are three parts, there are two, etc.
- The opening part of the window is called the sash, the stationary part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically sealed together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses to ensure tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through the windows. There are also double-glazed windows with inert gas pumped between the glass panes. It also reduces heat loss.
- Double-glazed windows are pressed to the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (it is usually black).
- Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
- To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - frame, impost and sashes.
At the bottom of the outer side of the frame (the one facing the street) there are drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, condensation that forms inside due to the difference in temperature outside and indoors is discharged outside.
The window also has a sill - a board on the outside that removes precipitation and a window sill on the inside. Side and top parts from the street and indoors. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.
How to measure a plastic window
When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. To measure everything correctly, you need to determine whether your window opening is made with a quarter or without.
Inspect the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Transmit the height as it is.
If the opening is smooth, the calculation proceeds differently. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides under the mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed on top, and 3.5 cm on the bottom will be used to install the window sill.
The length of the window sill and ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “recessed” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the tides is standard, so the nearest larger one is chosen. On window sills the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like them wide so they can put something, others prefer them flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.
When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether there is a capercaillie or not, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).
Preparation
If you are replacing windows, installing plastic windows yourself begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking does not build. After dismantling, it is necessary to inspect the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - using a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, all construction debris must be removed. Ideally, sweep everything away, even the dust, otherwise during installation the foam will not “grab” well on the wall.
If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them up cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the it will be easier installation. If the wall material is loose, they can be treated with binding compounds: penetrating adhesive primers.
How to install correctly: choosing an installation method
There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame and anchors are driven through them into the wall. This method is more complicated, but the fastening is more reliable.
This is an anchor bolt installation. There are three of them on each side.
When installing without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the outside of the frame, and then they are attached to the walls. This is naturally faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: under significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.
If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are often used when installing a rafter system.
In principle, small windows installed on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building, in these cases installation with unpacking is necessary.
Below, watch an emotional and intelligible video that explains why it is better to use anchors.
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions
Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, the load-bearing capacity of which is low and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window must stand in the soft layer, then it will need to be secured with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.
Installation and unpacking
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Afterwards you can start working. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:
- Removing the window sash:
- Close the window (the handle is turned down).
- Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They are pryed off with a screwdriver.
- There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is located in the center and protrudes slightly. They press on it until it sinks (you can take a metal plate, rest it against the pin and lightly tap the plate). The pin will slide out from below. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and pull it down and pull it out.
- Hold the door up and open the lock. To do this, place the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part towards you slightly, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.
The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
- On the wood grouse, remove the glass unit. It is held in place by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without any problems. Remove the glazing beads like this:
- Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If you don't have a special tool, it's best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins from one of the long sides.
- The spatula is carefully pushed into the crack with a corner and the glazing bead is gradually moved away from the frame.
- Without removing the tool, move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead to the side.
- This goes along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated; it is simply removed.
- With the short side, everything is simpler: you pry up the free edge and, by turning the spatula, remove it from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.
Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If that doesn't work, remove another one of the beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.
- Removing the window sash:
- The freed frame is covered with a special self-adhesive tape along the outer perimeter. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With it the window doesn't get so cold.
- Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
- The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to position it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. The position of the window is pre-fixed. This is what you can use mounting plates for.
- Take a drill and a drill bit that matches the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm retreat from the top edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. Between them in standard window install another anchor: the maximum distance between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
- Having made a hole, check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot overtighten: the profile should not sag. Repeat this operation required amount once.
- Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first a vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer part of the frame (it is self-adhesive). Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.
- A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is placed under the projection of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
- Along the lower edge the ebb also foams.
- Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
- A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the contour of the frame - it is also recommended by GOST.
- Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps to 2/3 of the volume. If the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is 2/3 filled.
When installing PVC windows with your own hands, foaming can be done in several stages - depending on the size of the gap
- Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar will not “stick” to it.
- Assemble all parts of the window. There are only Finishing work, and they are not a hindrance.
- A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of hard wood treated with impregnation. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5°).
Watch the video to learn how to correctly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.
The last to be installed or sealed are the slopes. One more video on this matter.
Installation without unpacking
The main details are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal ones.
They are installed at the same distance as the anchors: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.
Then installing plastic windows with your own hands with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is leveled in the opening. Only they attach not the frame, but the plates, and not to anchors, but to dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert a dowel, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel. Further all actions are identical.
Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: a decent amount of work is spent on disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than an anchor. For example, like in the video.
