Frame houses are distinguished not only by practicality, but also by attractive external indicators. This perfect option for those who want to acquire inexpensive, but comfortable housing. Today we will talk about the insulation of a frame house.
Do-it-yourself warming of a frame house
Design features
There are two main ways to build frame buildings:
- frame-panel (buildings are assembled directly at the factory with ready-made elements);
- frame-frame (all elements are prepared and assembled at the construction site).
In the section, the wall of the frame house is a multi-layer cake (this can be seen in the above image). It is also worth noting that the frames themselves can be of two types:
- wooden;
- metal.
For a long time, wood was the main building material, and no wonder - it is cheap, durable, weighs little, it is easy to process and has excellent thermal conductivity. Metal structures are erected from perforated steel profiles, mostly galvanized (this extends the service life to one hundred years).
Now - directly to the process of warming the frame house!
Stage one. The choice of material for the insulation of a frame house
After the supporting structure is ready, you need to start thermal insulation, and here, of course, there are a lot of questions. And the main one is the choice of a suitable material. There are quite a few of them, but the most popular are expanded polystyrene, basalt, eco- and glass wool, extruded polystyrene foam, materials that are sprayed or poured. It would seem that the choice is wide enough, but not all of the described heaters are suitable for frame building.
For example, polystyrene foam with polystyrene is not suitable because if you tightly lay them in interframe voids, then the structure itself will increase in volume in the future or dry out due to natural properties wood, due to which cracks form between the thermal insulator and the frame. It is quite obvious that through these cracks will leave thermal energy, and the insulation material itself will no longer be effective. Therefore, a thermal insulator suitable for us must be elastic: even if the shape of the frame changes, there will still be no gaps, since the vacated space will be filled with this material.
Now let's get down to specifics. Consider all the remaining materials, and you yourself will decide which one is more suitable (for price, quality, etc.).
Option number 1. Basalt wool for insulation of a frame house
Perhaps one of the most popular insulating materials. It has excellent noise and thermal insulation properties and is produced by melting mountain basalt. For this reason, the material is sometimes called stone wool.
Note! The temperature that it can withstand is +1000 C, so this is a real fireproof insulation.
The disadvantage of the material is that it absorbs moisture, due to which its main properties deteriorate over time. Therefore, when performing the insulation of a frame house, it is necessary to protect the basalt wool through steam and hydro insulating materials. We also note that for the thermal insulation of walls it is necessary to use the material that is produced in the plates. It is desirable that it has a special marking indicating that it is for walls, otherwise, after a couple of years, the cotton wool will sit down and cracks will form in the wall (namely, in its upper part), through which it will penetrate cold air.
Option number 2. Ecowool
A modern material made from cellulose. It differs from the previous version not only in appearance, but also in installation technology. For insulation with ecowool, you need special machine for mixing material with water droplets; then all this mixture is driven into the interframe space.
Water droplets are here for a reason - they stick together ecowool patches, thus forming a monolithic thermal insulator around the entire perimeter of the building. Therefore, there can be no cold bridges in such walls. Although it is possible to install ecowool without the use of special equipment, that is, dry. In this case, it is simply poured between the layers of walls and carefully rammed.
Ecowool is immune to high humidity emanating from the room, so no vapor barrier is needed in this case. The only drawback of the material is the high cost (not only it, but also installation work).
Option number 3. glass wool
Another very popular material that can be used in a frame house. It differs from basalt wool in that it is made from molten glass. It is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, fire safety and the fact that no toxic substances are released when exposed to fire.
Note! Glass wool is often produced in rolls. You should pay attention to the fact that it must have markings for the walls (this is necessary for a frame-type house).
Option number 4. Loose insulation
These include sawdust, expanded clay, slag and the like. At one time, this technology was a great success, since it was quite difficult to get good insulation material. But today bulk materials are practically not used. Everything is explained quite simply: their common drawback is that over time they shrink, and thermal insulation properties highly doubtful.
Option number 5. glassine
Glassine is thick paper treated with bitumen. The material is often used in construction to protect against wind and moisture, although in reality it is not necessary to do this - the material does not allow moisture that comes from the room to pass through, and it accumulates in the frame itself.
Note! We do not consider spraying with polyurethane foam, although it is very effective and can be applied to almost any surface. Firstly, he is afraid of direct sunlight, which reduces its service life by half. Secondly, its application requires special equipment, and this pleasure is not cheap. We are talking about the insulation of a frame house, which in itself implies minimizing costs.
Video - How to insulate a house
Stage two. Preparatory activities
First of all, it is necessary to understand a number important points, without which the thermal insulation of a frame building can easily turn into a waste of money. First, we note that it is necessary to think not only about the walls, since both the ceiling and the floor can also let in cold air! In addition, the insulation material should be qualitatively protected from moisture, using internal / external waterproofing for this. Finally, when performing installation work, it is necessary to leave small ventilation gaps between the walls and the insulation itself.
Before proceeding with installation work, thoroughly clean all work surfaces from dirt and dust. If protruding screws or nails are found, remove them. And if between frame elements buildings left gaps, then blow them out mounting foam. Dry all damp areas (if any) with a building hair dryer.
Note! If before this outside surface walls was thermally insulated using a waterproofing material, then its re-installation inside the building is no longer required, otherwise excess moisture will accumulate in the structure and, as a result, it will quickly collapse. Below is an instruction exclusively for internal insulation.
Stage three. waterproofing layer
Immediately make a reservation that the installation technology for all materials is approximately the same. First, measure all the walls of the frame, and then, in accordance with the calculations, cut the strips of the material that was chosen for waterproofing. Fasten the material to the posts using a mounting stapler so that the frame is completely sheathed.
Stage four. Installing a vapor barrier
Even if moisture-resistant materials are used for insulation, vapor barrier must still be performed. At first glance, these are unnecessary expenses, without which it is quite possible to do without. But the fact is that inside the frame there will be not only a heater, but also other elements (for example, the same tree), which still need protection from steam penetrating the walls from the room.
Scheme of laying a layer of vapor barrier when insulating a frame house
As a vapor barrier, both a special film and foamed polyethylene can be used. Fasten the selected material to the frame racks close to the thermal insulator using a mounting stapler. Sometimes insulation blocks are simply wrapped with this material, but in reality this is not necessary - as we have just noted, protection must be provided for all frame elements without exception.
The material is laid with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters, and all joints are carefully sealed with high-quality double-sided tape. Also, do not forget the fact that the thickness of the vapor barrier material in no way affects that of the insulating material.
Stage five. Insulation installation
If mineral wool is used for thermal insulation, before starting work, be sure to put on personal protective equipment - a respirator, gloves, goggles, special clothing. If you use foam (and this material, as we said, is not very suitable), then such security measures are not needed. When insulating a frame house, lay the material evenly between the frame posts, not forgetting the ventilation gaps required between the thermal insulator and the sheathing. For cutting mineral wool, you can use scissors or an ordinary knife, but for foam plastic you will need an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw with small teeth.
Note! Experts assure that it is more efficient to lay the insulation in two layers. So, first the first layer should be 10 centimeters thick, then a wooden crate is stuffed in a horizontal position, on top of which the second layer is laid (its thickness should already be 5 centimeters). Such a little "trick" will help to avoid the formation of cold bridges.
Lay on top of the insulation protective film(if it is necessary, that is, if the outside of the house was not properly insulated). This will help ensure that the material will always be in a dry state, and moisture from the outside will not get in.
Note! For the ventilation gap, which has been mentioned more than once, fill wooden crate 3 centimeters thick.
After that, you can begin the installation of OSB-plates and decorative trim.
Stage six. We sew walls in a frame house
The procedure for warming the frame house is almost completed, it remains only to sew up all the walls from the inside. Often, OSB plates are used for this, although you can also use drywall sheets. Although we note that drywall is appropriate only in the case of a sufficiently even frame, otherwise it will take all forms of irregularities. On the contrary, OSB is much tougher, so it can be used to eliminate minor flaws. On top of one of them, start finishing.
Fastening OSB boards to strapping if there is a second floor
Two options for docking plates
About additional insulation
If what is described above is not enough, then you can additionally take care of external insulation (if, of course, it is not already there). If mineral wool was used inside, then from the outside lay a vapor barrier that will protect the material from condensed moisture. By the way, it can be not only a film, but also aluminium foil, although to be honest, this material is not the best.
As a windscreen, you can use the same OSB or plywood. top coat eurolining, siding or others can serve suitable materials. That's all, good luck with your work and warm winters!
Video - Do-it-yourself warming of a frame house
Frame houses are deservedly considered healthy housing, since the main material of such houses is wood, which does not lose its relevance from year to year. frame construction popular and developed in many construction companies, as well as in the private sector.
A frame house is an ideal option for inexpensive and attractive housing, and more than 20% of construction is now underway. The cost of materials and work on the construction of a frame house starts from 300-500 thousand rubles, which is much less than the cost of a small, but full apartment. Even in such an inexpensive frame house, you can create comfortable conditions living, not only with the help of decoration, but also by creating proper insulation frame house.
Frame house insulation
After the construction of the main structure, the creation of thermal insulation is the first thing to do. It is very important to choose the right type of insulation for a frame house.
Styrofoam
Styrofoam - the most common and cheapest option to perform step-by-step warming frame house. This material is easy to transport, but it is fragile and can break. The disadvantages of polystyrene include its fire hazard and release harmful substances when burning and even just when the temperature rises.
The frame is sheathed with foam.
Insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam is most often done due to low thermal conductivity, and this characteristic is the most important for a heater. Also, when insulating the walls of a frame house with polystyrene foam, you can save a lot on thermal insulation works and do it yourself. When installing foam, you do not need to do a vapor barrier.
Mineral wool
Mineral wool is an excellent sound insulator and heat insulator, the most fireproof material for insulating a frame house with your own hands. However, it can absorb moisture quite well, deteriorate under its influence, crack and collapse.
Insulation of a frame house is used with the obligatory installation of a vapor barrier, which is made from a special waterproof film. The joints of the film are overlapped and glued with reinforced tape or a special adhesive film.
Basalt wool Izover.
What you need to pay attention to when choosing a heater:
- Thermal conductivity.
- Fire resistance.
- Frost resistance.
- Noise isolation.
- Lifetime.
- Ease of installation when insulating a frame house with your own hands.
On a note
Frame house insulation mineral wool it is better to take in the form of plates, not rolls, because breaks and damage will be excluded.
Other types of insulation
- Ecowool is a high-tech material in which there is no possibility for rodents and insects to live. The material is ideal for insulating a frame house from the inside in terms of its characteristics, its only drawback is the rather high cost of both the material and the procedure for its installation.
- - expanded clay, slag, sawdust. A good insulation, which is currently more used on flat surfaces. You can insulate the roof and floor of a frame house with the mandatory use of waterproofing, as it often gets wet, settles and needs to be replaced.
- Glassine is a thick paper treated with bitumen. Excellent moisture insulator, perfectly saves from the wind.
- Polyurethane foam is a good material that has a number of significant disadvantages - it is afraid of direct sunlight, high-cost insulation of a frame house from the outside.
- Penoplex - it includes extruded polystyrene foam. Penoplex is produced with rectangular slabs of different thicknesses from 20 to 100 mm. Insulation of a frame house with penoplex is justified by the fact that the material does not emit harmful substances. Like polystyrene, it does not conduct heat well, but it is much stronger and easy to process.
Mineral wool. Insulation of the walls of the frame house is carried out after the construction power frame and placing it under the roof. This procedure is due to the preservation of materials from getting wet. Especially if cotton wool heaters are used, which lose their heat-saving properties when water enters.
The video of the frame house insulation shows that mineral wool can also be installed with the internal insulation of the frame house. In the future, the insulation boards are closed with OSB or clapboard. Additional insulation of a frame house made from the inside takes up part of the usable area.
Before carrying out measures to strengthen the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to carry out a “general cleaning”, clean all the beams and niches inside the frame of the house. Seal joints and cracks with mounting foam.
Cross insulation
IN modern construction houses, cross-insulation of a frame house from the outside is popular. This method of insulation helps to get rid of cold bridges that occur at the points of contact between the insulation and the wooden frame. Also, wood itself is a bridge of cold.
Vertical cross cladding. The usual thickness of the frame house insulation is 150 mm, which is placed between the frame posts. The insulation is used in the form of plates, while its width should be one cm larger than the distance between the posts, which will allow the insulation to adjoin the tree more closely.
Additionally, from the outside of the frame are nailed horizontal bars 50x50 mm, with a distance between them of 590 mm for tight fixation of the insulation, the size of which is 600 mm. Further, a moisture-proof membrane is attached to the crate with the help of a stapler and overlapped, and blocks the ingress of moisture into the inside of the frame.
A counter crate is nailed onto the moisture-proof membrane and then facade material, thereby creating space for ventilation and removal of excess moisture. A ventilated facade is created, which is simply necessary in the technology of warming a frame house.
On a note
There is no need to do steam and waterproofing from the outside - this will spoil the wood of the frame more. It is important to leave some space between outer skin and façade for better ventilation.
We insulate the ceiling. Insulation of the ceiling of a frame house
Before carrying out work on the insulation of the ceiling in a frame house, it is necessary to install a ventilation system and consider openings for the exit of all pipes.
From the side of the attic or if frame house multi-storey, a layer of foil foam foam is attached, also construction stapler, and layers of mineral wool are laid between the beams. Additional heaters will be glassine strips laid on top of the cotton wool and an unedged board.
Floor and ceiling insulation. Floor insulation
Warming is best done after installing the load-bearing frame of the house and bringing the building under the roof to avoid getting wet insulation material. is done between the lags on the subfloor, another layer of insulation is placed on top, and then it is covered chipboard sheets or OSB.
Styrofoam or mineral wool can serve as a heater for the floor. Combining these two materials in insulation is not desirable due to different characteristics. The thickness of the frame house insulation can be quite large, but then it should be taken into account already at the design stage and leave the necessary gaps.
pitched roof. roof insulation
If it is planned to equip, then the thermal insulation of the roof is carried out in the truss system. And if the attic is not heated, then the insulation is carried out along the ceiling of the upper floor.
Insulation of the roof of a frame house can be carried out using inexpensive materials such as straw, shavings, sawdust. They are not expensive, but quite flammable and susceptible to the development of microorganisms and fungal infections. Of course, this is the past.
We lay mineral wool in the frame of the house. Exists new scheme insulation of a frame house, which is based on the use of modern thermal insulation materials. Now they prefer mineral wool, polystyrene foam, foam plastic. Also for flat roof you can lay bulk insulation.
Helpful Hints- The thickness of the insulation of a house built according to frame technology depends on where the heater is intended. Typically, the thickness of the insulation is from 150 to 200 mm.
- The home installation technology indicates the presence of notches and nails in the beams. In order not to damage the insulation, it is recommended to clean and grind the damaged structures.
- Before starting work on the internal insulation of the frame, seal the cracks and joints with foam and pieces of mineral wool.
If you decide to carry out the insulation of the frame house with your own hands, step-by-step instruction on our website will help to understand the process and do everything with minimal cost. The price of insulating a frame house will depend on many factors, so first of all choose heaters and materials that do not require special skills and equipment during installation.
At panel houses summer residence, the “lightest” design, a bar with a section of 10x10 cm is used for the supporting frame of the walls. If polystyrene foam is used as a cavity filler, then you don’t have to worry about additional thermal insulation - PPS 10 cm thick is similar in thermal conductivity gas silicate block D500-D600 375-400 mm wide. The question is how to insulate panel house For winter residence occurs only if mineral wool is laid inside the wall - this thickness is not enough for Russian frosts. Even for frame walls from a bar 150x100 with mineral wool inside will be required additional insulation. But besides the walls, there is also a floor, a ceiling and an attic, which also cannot be ignored if the house is transferred to year-round use.
This is how the internal insulation of frame-panel walls looks like Source otdelka-expert.ru
How to insulate the walls of a panel house outside
A panel house on a wooden frame is not a log house made of logs or timber. In this case, it is not necessary to talk about the breathing properties (gas permeability) of the walls. First, a vapor barrier is laid from the inside in a continuous layer. Secondly, the vapor permeability of plywood or OSB boards with which the frame is sheathed is very low. Therefore, for external insulation, you can use those materials that are not used for wooden houses:
expanded polystyrene;
EPS (extruded polystyrene foam);
sprayed thermal insulation based on two-component or one-component polyurethane foam.
Video description
We will dwell in more detail on the insulation of the house with foam plastic. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:
But most often choose mineral wool. And to be more precise - stone (basalt) wool. And although the thermal conductivity of stone wool is approximately one and a half times higher than that of foam plastics (thermal insulation properties are just as worse), it belongs to non-combustible substances - to the NG group. Of course, fire hazard and fire resistance requirements are not imposed on low-rise single-family houses (up to two floors inclusive) (clause 6.5.6 of SP 2.13130), but if the frame house is insulated with non-combustible materials, then this will not be superfluous.
Mineral wool cannot be set on fire even with a flame. gas burner Source krovlyakryshi.ru
It is easy to compensate for the lower thermal insulation properties due to the thickness. External insulation is not internal, and a few extra centimeters of insulation mean nothing. It is necessary to insulate with hard mats - roll materials in vertical structures they "move out" over time. And you have to choose between a thickness of 5 cm and 10 cm. For middle lane Russia, provided that 10 cm thick mineral wool has already been laid inside the walls, an additional 5 cm of thermal insulation layer is sufficient. Plus the thickness of the double-sided wall cladding, interior decoration and front panels.
But if the budget allows, you can lay a layer 10 cm thick.
How to insulate walls from the outside
How to insulate a frame house for winter living:
from the surface of the outer walls remove "foreign" objects– ebbs, cornices, visors, mounting brackets lighting fixtures And attachments;
remove old trim- dismantle the casing, clean the paintwork;
execute marking for framing, considering the width of the insulation mats;
handle All wooden elements crates with an antiseptic;
mount timber frame with a height equal to the thickness of the insulation;
The vertical crate for external insulation of the pediment and walls does not have to coincide with each other. The main thing is that the step matches the width of the mats Source ekoplat.ru
fix insulation between the crate;
lay in a continuous layer, with overlapping sheets, superdiffusion waterproofing membrane, fix it to the crate;
fill the beam of the counter-lattice, which should provide a ventilation gap and serve as a place for attaching facade panels (the height of the timber should be at least 6 cm - this minimum size ventilation gap);
sheathe the facade siding, block house or any other finishing materials for a ventilated facade.
Important! Even before insulation, it is necessary to replace the windows with a "winter" version. It is also necessary to insulate entrance group- equip a small vestibule and install a second front door.
Additional insulation of the panel house can be carried out according to horizontal crate, and make the counter-lattice vertical to create a ventilated gap and fasten the skin.
Video description
Clearly about the creation of a counter-lattice and fastening the skin in the following video:
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
basement insulation
Full-fledged insulation of the panel house from the outside will require work on the thermal insulation of the basement for the strip base or the pick-up for the pile foundation.
Insulation of the basement strip foundation
According to experts, the house through the foundation loses up to 10-15% of the total heat loss due to the rather high thermal conductivity of reinforced concrete or building blocks (depending on what the basement is made of). And this phenomenon also needs to be fought.
This is how the general scheme of heat loss through enclosing surfaces looks like. Source valet.ru
In this case, it is better to choose EPPS for insulation. It is difficult to protect mineral wool near the ground from moisture as part of a “wet” facade (especially a hinged one). Extruded polystyrene foam has a very low water absorption coefficient, and can even successfully perform waterproofing functions.
How to insulate a panel house for winter living technology " wet facade» :
prepare plinth surface– clean from dirt, if necessary, level it cement mortar, treated with a primer for deep penetration concrete;
fasten on the adhesive solution of the plate, additionally fixed with mechanical fasteners;
apply a layer adhesive solution, reinforce with a mesh, pressing it into the solution, level the surface;
veneer the plinth tiles made of artificial or natural stone.
If the finish is carried out with basement siding or fiber cement panels, then the insulation has the following diagram:
prepare surface;
mount brackets for crates;
fix the plates- glue plus mechanical fasteners;
seams blown with foam;
mounted on brackets vertical crate from a galvanized profile;
sheathe crate panels;
close top plinth ebb.
Insulation of the basement with XPS boards and paneling under stone Source homesto.ru
Insulation of the base of the pile foundation
To insulate the foundations of the house on a pile foundation, they build a small wall that closes the space under the house. This type of plinth is called a pick-up. There are two options for this design:
small self-supporting wall made of brick, building blocks or rubble stone, standing on its own shallow base;
arrangement along the perimeter pile foundation frame made of wooden beam or profile, followed by sheathing with basement siding, fiber cement panels under stone or brick.
Both versions of the pile foundation base are usually insulated from the inside. To do this, use either EPPS or sprayed polyurethane foam (rodents like to settle in ordinary foam).
This is an insulated basement of a panel house on a pile foundation. Source rumydom.ru
But the thermal insulation of the basement does not preclude work on floor insulation.
How to insulate the floor
Thermal insulation of the floor is already a technology for insulating a panel house from the inside. From the point of view of thermal engineering, insulated floor wooden house- This is a single-layer structure that simultaneously performs load-bearing and heat-insulating functions. There are different options for arranging the warm floor of a panel house, but they all come down to a thin-layer sheathing of a supporting wooden frame, inside which heat-insulating materials are placed. And in order to protect the insulation from moisture and water vapor, it must be protected by continuous layers of vapor and waterproofing.
There are certain differences in the insulation of the floors of an apartment building and a private house. In an apartment building, the floor insulation must be protected from the penetration of water vapor from below, from the side of another heated apartment. And here the vapor barrier is spread over the ceiling (from below relative to the insulation).
In a panel house, the partial pressure of water vapor in the warm air inside the room is higher than in the cold air from the side of the pile or strip foundation. Therefore, a vapor-tight barrier must be on the side floor covering.
One of the possible schemes for installing an insulated floor. Regardless of the materials of the floor covering and filing the subfloor, the order of the layers does not change. Source abisgroup.ru
There are different options for arranging an insulated wooden floor, but the principle is the same for everyone, and the circuit looks like this:
boards subfloor;
solid layer of waterproofing membrane;
insulation;
solid vapor barrier layer;
finishing floor.
Important! Moisture from the insulation should be vented into the underground, and from there through the vents to the street.
How to insulate an attic
There are two standard schemes for insulating a panel house from the roof side: cold attic and attic (or combined roof).
cold attic insulation
In this case, there is no insulation in the roof structure. Warming is carried out on a wooden floor.
This is a standard cold attic insulation scheme from Geksa, a manufacturer of Izospan insulation materials. Source neanderthals.ru
Here it is important to keep following conditions:
Vapor barrier is fixed on the surface of the false ceiling from the side of the room. It should protect not only the insulation, but also the load-bearing floor beams along with the draft ceiling. Otherwise, wooden structural elements will be moistened from exposure to vapors in warm air, and evaporation excess moisture of them outside the room will be blocked by a vapor barrier.
Choose as a vapor barrier films with anti-condensation properties. These are two- or three-layer polymeric materials with a rough (fleshy) surface, which is turned towards the room. They are able to partially retain condensate, up to the appearance of conditions for its weathering.
Insulation is laid on the false ceiling between the load-bearing floor beams.
Laid on top of the insulation waterproofing superdiffusion membrane.
If the height of the floor beams is insufficient to form a ventilated gap above the insulation, then they are stuffed spacer rails. And the attic floor boards are already attached to them.
Attic insulation
There are two options for insulating a frame house for winter living by insulating the attic: this is the thermal insulation of the roof or the contour of the dwelling.
Insulation of the contour of a residential attic (mansard) can also have different options. For example, as in this diagram - with roof insulation from the cornice to the top trim Source pinterest.com
But in any case, from the side of the roof on the rafters, in front of the crate (or solid flooring), a waterproofing membrane must be laid.
For a metal roof, a gap is required between the waterproofing and roofing so that condensate can drain onto the drip, and moisture can be vented from the under-roof space. If the vapor permeability of the membrane is low, then a ventilation gap must remain between it and the insulation to vent water vapor from the mineral wool.
Roof insulation
It is easier to insulate the entire roof than to “cut out” a warm contour from the attic. Especially if the house is small.
This is how the scheme of the insulated roof looks like. Source stroyfora.ru
The insulation of the entire roof is carried out as follows:
Between the rafters lay mats mineral wool. If the pitch of the rafters is greater than the width of the mat, then an additional crate is mounted. If less, the mats are cut. But in any case, the width of the mats should be 5 cm less than the pitch of the rafters.
Over the insulation to the rafter legs (and crate) fix a continuous layer of vapor barrier. These can be materials with anti-condensation or reflective properties. The strips are overlapped, both horizontally and when extended in length. All joints and junctions to structural elements are fixed with self-adhesive vapor-tight tape. The anti-condensation or reflective surface should face the attic.
For creating a gap(and fastening the sheathing sheathing) a wooden bar is nailed to the rafters.
Insulation of the living perimeter of the attic
It is possible to insulate only part of the roof, which limits the attic itself. The insulation is laid from the line of attachment points of the racks to the rafters, and so that it does not slip, a horizontal strut is mounted between the rafter legs. At the top, the border of the warm perimeter can pass along the ridge or along the attachment line of the upper harness. The upper trim in this case serves as the load-bearing beams of the attic ceiling.
Two schemes for insulating the attic contour - without a ceiling and with a ceiling Source lateres.ru
If the attic has a ceiling, then its insulation takes place according to the “cold attic” scheme.
The walls of the attic are insulated in this way:
from the side of the roof to the pillars fasten the skin;
insulation stacked between racks;
attach to racks vapor barrier;
stuffed on racks distance bar(to form a gap between the vapor barrier and inner lining), the same bar serves as a counter-lattice for attic cladding.
Video description
Demonstration video on attic insulation:
Conclusion
Warming a panel house for winter living is not an easy undertaking. Only right choice materials and adherence to technology guarantee that the expected effect will correspond to reality. Errors can lead to the fact that the first heating season will pass safely, and during the next heat-insulating materials will partially lose their properties.
Frame houses are becoming increasingly popular, however, this European trend in the Russian climate requires significant thermal insulation, as well as protection from wind and moisture. Experts recommend insulating the walls of a frame house not only from the outside, but also from the inside.
Choosing materials for thermal insulation
A few decades ago, to keep the heat in the house, a mixture of clay with straw, sawdust or shavings was poured into the walls of frame houses. At one time, sawdust concrete was also popular, but these materials have long been out of use, although they do not lose their attractiveness due to their low cost. IN modern houses on the basis of the frame for insulation, mainly mineral wool (glass wool, stone wool) and polystyrene are used.
Mineral wool has a number of advantages - they are refractory, which is especially important for houses made of wooden frames, have low thermal conductivity, are easy to install, are produced in a form convenient for builders (mats, rolls) and are quite light. The disadvantage of this insulation is that it cannot be called environmentally friendly, since it contains formaldehydes in small doses. In addition, moisture is contraindicated for him. Most often, mineral wool is used for external insulation, since for internal works using this material is not always convenient and safe.
Very quickly, among building materials, foam plastic broke out into the category of the most popular materials for thermal insulation. It is made from granules of polymer plastics, which are filled with carbon dioxide or natural gas.
Foam boards are very light in weight, easy to install, do not conduct heat and normal temperatures environmentally friendly. Insulation of this kind is not subject to decay and the appearance of fungus, therefore, during its installation, additional layers of vapor and waterproofing may not be required.
Perhaps the most important advantage of polystyrene is its modest cost. Its main disadvantage is the possibility of ignition and the release of substances harmful to human health during combustion. True, there is a fire-resistant version of this material - extruded polystyrene foam, which is also more compact.. All types of polystyrene, oddly enough, can easily be spoiled by rodents, which is another significant disadvantage.
Polyurethane foam (PPU) is a sprayed type of thermal insulation that has the highest degree of heat retention and is very resistant to moisture. Spraying takes place with the help of special equipment, in which the active components are mixed and, falling on the surface, instantly foam, forming a dense crust. You can spray PPU on almost any surface, even on glass and metal, regardless of its position. Vulnerable point of polyurethane foam - sunlight. When exposed to direct sunlight, its life is reduced by about half. But you can protect PPU from the sun with ordinary painting. Another disadvantage is that special equipment is needed to work with this material.
For hydro and wind insulation, builders often use glassine, a thick paper impregnated with bitumen. However, its use as a protection against moisture and wind is undesirable, since glassine does not allow moisture coming from the house to pass through and contributes to its accumulation inside the frame. In modern practice, builders are increasingly using superdiffusion hydro-windproof membranes, which have a huge vapor permeability compared to glassine and perfectly protect the house from wind and moisture from the outside.
Insulation of the walls of a frame house from the inside - preparatory work
First, let's clarify some basic principles, without which the insulation of the walls of such a house can be a waste of money. First, when wondering how to insulate a frame house from the inside, you need to think not only about the walls. The floor and ceiling can also let in the cold! Secondly, heat-insulating materials must be reliably protected from moisture by external and internal waterproofing. Thirdly, during the process of laying the insulation, it is important to observe the gaps necessary for ventilation between the material and the wall surfaces.
Before starting the installation of insulation, clean the walls, floor and ceiling from dust and dirt. Any protruding nails or screws should be removed. The existing gaps between the elements of the frame of the house are filled with mounting foam. Use a blow dryer to dry the damp areas of the frame if necessary.
The website site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the heat loss of a building.
How to insulate a frame house from the inside - step by step instructions
In the event that the house was nevertheless carried out and external thermal insulation with the use of waterproofing, it is not necessary to re-mount another layer of moisture protection inside the house, otherwise this may lead to the accumulation of excess moisture inside the structure and its rapid destruction. We will consider the option of warming the house only from the inside.
How to insulate a frame house from the inside - step by step diagram
Step 1: Installation of the waterproofing layer
We measure the walls of the frame house and cut into the appropriate strips the one we have chosen waterproofing material. By using construction stapler we fasten it to the racks, completely sheathing the frame. It is best to lay the waterproofing with an overlap, leaving under upper layer about 10 cm. Fastening is carried out at the junction every 10 cm.
Step 2: Installing the vapor barrier
Even in the case of using materials that are not afraid of moisture as a heater, it is still necessary to perform a vapor barrier. The reason for seemingly unnecessary costs at first glance is that, in addition to the insulation itself, there are other elements in the wall frame that should be protected from steam penetrating the walls from inside the building, for example, the same wood.
For vapor barrier use a special film or foamed polyethylene. This material is also attached to the racks of the frame with a construction stapler close to the insulation. Sometimes builders simply wrap heat-insulating blocks in such a film, but this is not entirely correct - as already noted, all elements of the frame must be protected from steam. The joints of the film, as in the case of waterproofing, should be made with an overlap of at least 10 cm. For greater vapor barrier, all joints and junctions of this layer should be glued with double-sided tape. When installing a vapor barrier, please note that its thickness does not in any way reduce the thickness of the main insulation.
Frame house insulation- one of the most milestones construction, since the insulation layer serves as the only barrier to the penetration of cold into the dwelling, as well as an insulator from wind and moisture.
AND up to 80% all frame houses are insulated with mineral wool or materials based on it.
Mineral wool- This is a vapor-permeable insulation, which is the most popular material for thermal insulation. Minvata is distinguished by high sound insulation and environmental friendliness. Throughout the entire period of use, the mineral wool remains in its original form.
Advantages and disadvantages
Main advantages mineral wool:
- Low thermal conductivity. This coefficient depends on the density of the mineral wool and can range from 0.032 to 0.039 W / (m * K). And the harder the wool, the less thermal conductivity it will have.
- Durability. At correct installation insulation can last up to 70 years.
- Ease of installation. The material is easy to cut with a knife and is convenient to process.
- Fire safety. Mineral wool does not burn, but only melts under the influence of high temperatures without releasing harmful substances into the atmosphere.
To disadvantages mineral wool insulation include:
- High cost.
- The need to protect the material from moisture using a vapor and waterproofing film.
- Installation of wool slabs must be carried out in a suit and a respirator to protect against harmful dust .
Types of mineral wool, their pros and cons
Happens 3 types:
- Glass wool (raw materials are glass melts).
- Stone (made from rocks).
- Slag (made from slag).
Previously described advantages and disadvantages mineral wool are inherent in all its varieties, the following shows the distinctive pros and cons of each type.
glass wool- This is a fibrous insulation, which is one of the types of mineral wool. The raw materials for its manufacture are glass melts and binders - resins.
Advantages of glass wool:
- Breathability.
- Frost resistance.
- Chemical resistance.
- Resistant to mold and fungal attack.
Cons of insulation:
- Short service life - up to 10 years.
- Shrinkage up to 80%.
Stone (basalt) wool is a vapor-permeable insulation, which is one of the best sound and heat insulating materials. It is made from rocks with the addition of carbamide resins and bentonite clay.
Advantages of stone wool:
- High density.
- Minimum shrinkage (about 5%).
- Resistant to decay, mold and mildew.
To disadvantages can be attributed to the high moisture absorption of stone wool.
Important: cotton wool is produced in slabs and rolls, it can have different density - from 30 to 100 kg / m³.
slag wool is made from blast-furnace slag, which is a waste of metallurgical industries.
Advantages of slag:
- flexibility and elasticity (can be used for warming rounded surfaces).
- Low cost.
Cons of insulation:
- When water gets on the cotton wool, an acid is released that destroys the metal.
- The material does not tolerate temperature extremes.
The table shows that stone wool has the very best technical indicators, plus everything has a minimum shrinkage. Slag wool is noticeably inferior to glass and stone wool in terms of thermal conductivity and has low sound insulation performance.
Frame house floor insulation technology
floor insulation technology based on the type of foundation of the house. Most frame structures are placed on a pile-screw foundation, but regardless of the type of foundation of the house, the first layer of floor insulation should be waterproofing.
If the house is located high from the ground and you can climb under it, then under the logs from below they are first attached with a stapler waterproofing film and then nail the bottom cladding boards.
They can be nailed close to each other or in increments up to 40 cm. They will keep the mineral wool slabs and the waterproofing film from falling down.
If you can’t crawl under the house, then boards are stuffed under the logs, and then a film is laid on top of the logs and boards from the inside. Mineral wool fits tightly between the lags on the film . Distance between lags should be 58-59 cm, since the standard width of wool slabs is 60 cm.
Average mineral wool layer thickness should be 15 cm, and the height of the lag is slightly less. Each new layer of wool must overlap the joints of the previous one and have an overlap of at least 20 cm.
Over mineral wool and lag attach a vapor barrier film, glue the joints with 2-sided tape. Sheets of plywood, OSB or boards are laid on the film, which will serve as the basis for fine finish floors.
Important: hydro and vapor barrier films are laid so that their edges go onto the walls. This will prevent moisture from getting between the wall and the floor of the frame house.
Scheme of wall insulation of a frame house with mineral wool
The walls in the frame house are insulated and outside and inside. The materials used for this are the same.
Insulation of external walls
wall insulation technology mineral wool outside includes several stages. First, the frame is sheathed on the outside with OSB boards with a distance between the boards of 2-3 mm. Then these slots are filled with mounting foam.
Outside, a waterproofing film is stretched over the plates to protect boards and a layer of mineral wool from precipitation, the joints of the films are double-sided tape.
WITH inside mineral wool slabs are inserted between the frame bars. The joint of the second layer of wool must overlap the joint of the first by 15-20 cm.
Advice: it is best to take wool slabs with a density of at least 35-50 kg / m³ to insulate the walls of a frame dwelling. Such a mineral wool will not sag and roll down.
After installing all insulation must be completed mounting foam all the cracks that appeared at the junctions of boards and beams.
Over a layer of mineral wool a vapor barrier film is stretched from the inside to protect the insulation from moisture coming from inside the room. Next, OSB sheets, plywood or boards are stuffed onto the film. In conclusion, finishing walls.
Insulation of internal walls
Warming internal walls frame house is mainly carried out to provide sound insulation. To do this, you can use mineral wool, another type of insulation or special soundproof materials.
The technology of wall insulation inside is similar to insulation external walls, while hydro- and heat-insulating films may not apply.
Ceiling insulation with mineral wool
Ceiling insulation is one of the most important stages of home insulation technology. It is recommended to carry out it while the roof is not yet fully assembled, so that it does not interfere with the dense laying of mineral wool on top of the ceiling.
First, on ceiling beams a vapor barrier film is attached from the inside. A board is nailed to it 2.5 cm thick, plywood sheet or OSB board. Further, wool slabs are attached from above according to the same rules as for wall and floor insulation.
Attention: mineral wool is placed completely along the entire ceiling, plus an overlap for the entire width of the walls.
If the attic is not used for living, then there is no need to lay membrane films. You can immediately sheathe it with plywood or board for ease of movement. In the case when it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from above, it is applied insulation from the inside. For this, mineral wool slabs are tied to the ceiling. Then the vapor barrier film is sewn on and plywood sheets or boards.
Because warm air always goes up with illiterate insulation the ceiling from the room will leave a large amount of heat.
Insulation of the roof of a frame house
roof insulation technology similar to ceiling insulation with one exception. A waterproofing film must be laid on the insulation layer to protect the mineral wool from the external environment (rain, wind or snow).
After installation truss system a vapor barrier film is hemmed from below, on which hemming boards or plywood sheets are stuffed from the inside.
Then sheets of insulation are laid outside, covering them with a waterproofing film. On film stuffing the counter-lattice, then the crate under the roof and the roofing material itself.
Roof insulation it is more convenient to produce outside, so the cotton fibers will not fall on the face. If the roof is already assembled, then the insulation can be made from the inside. But this is less convenient, since it will be necessary to temporarily fix the mineral wool slabs before pulling the vapor barrier.
In conclusion, we can say that the insulation of a frame house with mineral wool will ensure minimal heat removal through the walls and cut costs for heating in winter. Mineral wool as a heater provides natural ventilation in the house and is an excellent sound insulator from noise from the street.
See the video for the insulation scheme of a frame house with mineral wool:
Master class on warming the external walls of a frame house using URSA TERRA, see no video:
