How to open the door panel without a key? Add your price to the Comment database. We begin internal installation

Good day, dear guests and readers of the Electrician's Notes website.

Just yesterday, one of the relatives asked me at his entrance. We did not put off the replacement for a long time, because... I already bought a meter from him, and I always carry mine with me in the car.

The old single-phase induction meter SO-I466, which he wanted to replace with a newer SOE-55, was located on the landing in the floor panel.

In this article I will dwell in more detail not on replacing the meter, but on the floor panel itself and its diagram.

So, let's go.

I will say right away that the purpose of replacing the electric meter is that, you see, it has a number of advantages over metering electricity at one general tariff.

If you are still thinking about which meter to buy, I recommend reading articles on how to correctly and.

As I said above, old counter my relative had it on the landing (cage) in the floor panel.

The floor panel is designed for receiving and distributing electrical energy for apartments of consumer citizens. Also, its main purpose is to protect outgoing lines to apartments from overloads.

Now let’s take a closer look at what the floor panel consists of and the diagram of its connections.

What does a floor board for 3 apartments consist of?

I forgot to mention that there are 3 apartments on the landing, which means the floor panel is intended for 3 apartments and no more. This is what it looks like:

To be more precise, this floor panel is designated ShchE-3302. Let's decipher:

ShchE - floor panel
3 - has a compartment for low-current and low-voltage networks
3 – for 3 apartments
02 — execution of the shield diagram (I’ll talk about it a little lower)

The floor board of this marking consists of 3 sections:

introductory
distributive
for low-current and low-voltage networks

Each compartment is closed with its own door. Inspection windows are provided for removal.

Now let's talk about each department separately.

Introductory compartment in the floor panel

The introductory section of the floor panel consists of main wires that run through special channels (interfloor voids). The electrical wiring of the main lines is made of four-wire, APV brand wire (aluminum), with a cross-section of 16 sq. mm.

All three phases of the main wires (A, B and C), as well as zero (PEN), are connected to the terminal blocks without breaking the wire itself. This is clearly visible in the photograph.

From these terminal blocks, aluminum wires of the APV brand, with a cross-section of 4 sq. mm, go into the distribution compartment.

Distribution compartment of the floor panel

The distribution compartment of the floor panel consists of a removable frame on which special strips for. In our case, the electricity meters of three apartments are located there.

Also on this frame are installed DIN rails for group lines of apartments and package switches, which are covered with a protective panel.

Department for low-voltage and low-current networks

There is one more compartment left in the floor panel, which we did not consider. This is a department for low-voltage and low-current networks. It contains telephone and intercom cables, lines burglar alarm, Internet and satellite dishes. I didn’t take a photo of this department because... there was no need to look there.

Floor board diagram

The floor panel diagram is shown below.

As I said above, the main wires are connected to terminal blocks without breaking. There are 4 terminal blocks in total: phase A, B and C, as well as a PEN neutral block.

From the terminal blocks with APV brand wires with a cross section of 4 sq. mm, the wires go to the package switches in the following order.

phase A and zero goes to the packet package of apartment No. 2
phase B and zero go to the packet package of apartment No. 3
phase C and zero go to the packet package of apartment No. 1

Next, from each package, the wires go to the electric energy meter of the corresponding apartment. The wires from the electric meter go to 3 group circuit breakers. Two machines have a rated current of 16 (A), and one - 25 (A). From these group machines the wires go to different distribution boxes apartments.

Hello Dmitry. But there must be some lower limit, below which the supplying organization should not go. This means three-phase power. According to the documents, the total allocated power per house is 5 kW. The supply to the house is new SIP 4a-16mm. The overhead line is also in good condition. A heating system is provided for heating and three heating elements are installed in parallel with it. I don’t know the power, now until spring it’s in question. But if you take at least 1 kW, then you have 2 kW left for life. It doesn't work out very well for winter. Is there anything that can be done to increase the power?
In one of your articles you wrote that power limiters are not legal. And if there is a “smart” meter and it is programmed to turn off the power when the power is exceeded. As then?

Hello Dmitry.

With the TN-C system, grounding in the apartment (without upgrading to the TN-C-S system) cannot be done. It is also impossible to connect the PE contact to the N contact in a home socket (i.e., do grounding), since if the PEN conductor burns out somewhere before this socket (at the entrance to the apartment or on the floor below), the housings of electrical appliances will be energized. In this regard, two questions:
1. Why then is it allowed to zero the shields on the landing (as in your case)? After all, if the PEN conductor burns out somewhere before this shield (on the floors below), the same thing will happen as if it was grounded - that is, it will be under the “residual” potential that “came” from the zeros of all apartments located above the burnout point , accordingly presenting a danger of electric shock to any person passing by and touching this shield?
2. If, after all, grounding the common board is allowed, is it not possible, as some electricians do (“having no other option with the TN-C system”), to place the PE conductor of the apartment’s sockets on the body of the common board? Wouldn't this be the same as if a grounding was done in a home outlet, and therefore unacceptable?

Thank you very much))) VERY good site)))

THANK YOU SO MUCH for the site! The information is presented very clearly and will be useful to both beginners and professional electricians!

I wonder if in this panel we replace 1 25A automatic machine + 2 16A automatic machines - one 40A automatic machine, will this not be a violation? The house management won't fine you?

I did this after replacing these switches and moving the meter into the apartment. After the batch switch I connected a 40 (A) machine, from it input cable I was already going to the apartment switchboard, where the meter and group machines were installed. But in order to do this, you need to agree on the rating of the input machine with the energy supply company. Come to them during office hours and tell them your situation. If you have little electrical knowledge, call an electrician with you.

Please tell me how correct name and marking of the transit 3-phase block to which the phases in the panel are connected. In the last photo on the right. My shields have a slightly different design (above the counters with a loop through a bolt). I really need it for inspection of shields, but I can’t find it on the Internet for purchase.

Dear Admin, please tell me, according to current standards, is it necessary to hang tags indicating the purpose and cross-section of conductors, both phase and neutral, in floor boards?

Valery, according to PTEEP, clause 2.4.5. Openly laid cables must be labeled; the cable tags at the beginning and end of the line must indicate the brand, voltage, cross-section, number or name of the line.

Good afternoon
If possible, I would like to know the answer to the question from Sergei on 01/30/2014 at 21:49...
Thank you!

Another question) The panel layout is similar (only we have 2 group machines per apartment). Wiring is aluminum, no PE. We are doing a partial renovation of the apartment and would like to do a partial modification of the electrical system (without redoing what is already there and redoing the floor panel), but organizing several additional consumer groups: 1 (bathroom - washing machine + hairdryer), 2 (kitchen - built-in electric stove+ electric ignition of the gas panel) 3 Kitchen (refrigerator - socket group of the kitchen apron (microwave, blender... kettle) and 4 - desktop computer (+ peripherals) and TV with DVD. Wiring 3x2.5 copper, without PE connection to the panel.
It is planned to organize a small apartment panel for ouzo and automatic machines only for these consumers.
Question: how to correctly and competently make a branch from the floor panel into the apartment? From one of the machines and the earth bus? or how? In this case, should the input be made with an aluminum wire, and then in a small panel through the machine switch to copper?

Thank you!!!

To answer your question, read. I talked there about the modernization of the floor panel.

Yesterday I changed the meter due to inflated readings, someone had already capitalized the shield, very carelessly, on their machines coming from the meter, they found a wire when it was turned off, nothing turned off in my apartment (in the evening a neighbor came, it turns out it was her kitchen socket) on her machines there was also a wire from shutdown which did not turn off anything in her apartment (and the third neighbor did not turn off either). Only one phase of 16 kV (for three apartments, top floor) and PEN enters the shield. Now the question remains - who has what zero on what counter?! By the way, my kitchen socket with grounding also did not pass through my zero from the meter, but went straight to the common zero bus together with grounding (meaning zero from the outlet and grounding) to the zero coming from my meter, two wires going into the apartment go to the load - one definitely mine, the other one needs to be called where he is going. The question is

I'm going to install LED lights in the entrance and above the canopy instead of a cobra in the whole house there are 6 entrances and 9 floors. The desire to turn on both on a timer. Tell me where the MOS is powered from, if from the switchboard, then it’s possible to combine all the entrances into 2 groups? and manage them from one place?

Good afternoon! Tell me, how many outgoing machines can be installed for 1 apartment on floor panels for 3 apartments? V standard project residential building with gas heating On the outgoing lines for 1 apartment there are 3 16A automatic machines, we have a project with electric stoves and we need to install a 25A automatic 220V 6 kW stove. Do I need to replace one 16A circuit breaker with a 25A one or can I additionally add one 25A circuit breaker?

Good afternoon
The question arose of replacing the meter. Everything is as in the photographs, but there are no bags, although there are some on the floor below. How to turn off the voltage in this case? In fact, if you hold the wire with pliers and unscrew the wires with a screwdriver, it won’t kill you?! And then also connect the meter back?! How to install a DIN rail with your own machines, so as not to remove your neighbor’s machines, they are structurally installed on the same rail? If aluminum goes to the meter, then you can run copper from it to the machines, and then from each machine the old aluminum wiring goes on?
If you place a packager (or a machine, then how many Amperes) in front of the meter, is it allowed to run copper followed by aluminum from the old wiring from it to the meter and from the meter to the machines?

I also want to install a separate machine for the washing machine. I just don’t know how to get the VVGng 3x2.5 into the kitchen. The electricians suggest making an inlet along the platform into the bathroom, lowering it along the water/sewer risers further through the bathroom into the kitchen, is this allowed by the PEU? Are there any diagrams of the electrical wiring channels in Brezhnevkas?

World 150914 is better for the stove 32 A, for the socket part 16 A, for lighting 10 A, again depending on how many rooms will need to share the load

Alexey 111014, it’s practically possible, only the pliers should have insulated handles, and the screwdriver should be a dielectric one, and if you don’t have experience, it’s better not to risk it and call an electrician
You can install a din rail, you can loosen the screws on the bar and pull out the old machines,
You can carry copper from the meter, but if you are planning to change the meter or de-energize it, it would be wiser to throw copper to it,
If the meter fails, put 50A or 40A in front of the meter
It’s better to lead along the corridor into a cable channel, without any toilets or bathrooms
Not PEU but PUE

Good evening, please tell me, I am interested in a question about automatic switches. The wiring in the apartment was replaced, but I have not yet had time to change the input machine in the hallway to the apartment (the old one was 25A). When the stove was working at home (it has a separate circuit breaker in the apartment 40A), a short circuit occurred, the circuit breaker in the input corridor turned off (as I understand it, it is weaker than the stove - that’s why it was knocked out), I changed the circuit breaker to 50A, I think now when the stove is working it will be directly knock out in an apartment at 40A. I turn on the stove, after a few minutes there is no light anywhere. I climbed into the shield, the 40A circuit breaker was knocked out, I went out into the corridor - the input machine for my apartment was knocked out - 50A and the input for floor 63A was knocked out. Why did 3 get knocked out at once? should it only be directly on the stove?

What kind of wiring do you have, maybe due to thermal overload it cuts out, but the wire to the stove heats the neighboring ones too

What do you mean? The wires are all new VVGng, laid on a 3*4 plate

Look for a short circuit, but you need to put a 32A circuit breaker on the stove

The same shield. The stove is gas, so a separate, non-working zero, “nullifier” from the panel body does not come into the apartment.

Question. Washing machine In bathroom. We take and equalize the potentials of all available pieces of iron - we connect the bathtub, all available risers with a thick copper jumper. You can even organize a copper busbar and connect each riser to it with a separate wire. The pipes are metal - they are in the ground anyway and there is absolutely zero potential on them.
We hang the body of the car here. That is, we connect the PE sockets for the machine to our grounding conductor. In the event of a phase leak on the body of the machine, the RCD/automatic device will be knocked out. In a very bad case (if there is a leak and the machine is not knocked out, it will not kill anyone, because all the potentials are equalized by jumpers, there is no difference, but it is not the potential that kills, and it is the difference - the birds are sitting on the high-voltage wires, and nothing to their neighbors either.
That is, as far as I understand, we get something in the form of a TT system with a grounding electrode from water and heating pipes.
But a potential equalization system can be made, but a ground electrode in the form of water pipes cannot be used. The question is why? I would like to hear - not because it is forbidden, but because specific examples what this could lead to.

Serg, because now they often make taps into risers from non-conductive elements. And in the event of an insulation breakdown, a potential can form on the drain, the difference between which and the ground can kill (and not even necessarily you, but, for example, the neighbor below)

And I’ll also add... Well done, Serg, for asking. But the neighbor below will not do this (consult and ask) (we are all smart). And the result will be the same as in Alexey’s answer, only exactly the opposite. That is, now you will be in the role of a neighbor.
Well, as a sub-option for inserting plastic: they are making repairs on your riser with partial disassembly of it. That's it - there is no grounding electrode - you get the same difference. Needless to say, we consider it “bad taste” to warn neighbors about ongoing work.

Hot water and hot water pipes must be grounded when entering the building!

AND…? Who can argue with this? Entering a building is one thing. Yes, let them be grounded at least three times: the owner of an apartment on the 3rd floor in a 9-story building will replace his part of the riser with plastic (this is not prohibited) - “and, hello, Shishkin”: the upper floors above this owner are already without grounding this riser.

Hello. I’m a little off topic, my mom just puzzled me, I decided to find the answer on the Internet and came across this site, I saw that the person is a professional, so I hope you can tell me. So my mother said that during the day she received a call from a neighbor on the landing, who was with her neighbor’s tenants from another floor. The neighbor asked for the key to the panel, saying that the tenants on the other floor wanted to connect to the Internet... BUT! What does our shield have to do with it? Why does a person from the 3rd floor want to connect to the Internet through the 1st floor panel. Is there some kind of fraud possible? Please comment on the situation

Anastasia, perhaps they want to run an Internet cable through your shield to their floor. Look in the article, there is a special compartment for this in the switchboard (for low-voltage networks and low-current cables). In general, you can ask them directly. There is no fraud here.

[i] I did not remove the “packet”, but when replacing the group machines with modern ones and reconstructing this shield, I will definitely remove it.

Why is this necessary?

if only because over time they begin to jam and it is impossible to switch them without dismantling, and they do not have a short-circuit protection function; by their principle it is a switch or load switch

What do input machines protect? Counter?

Counter and cable to group machines

Answer: Pavel
12/19/2014 at 21:38
Pavel, it is not necessary to install a circuit breaker in front of the metering device. A switching device must be installed in front of the metering device, which can be a load switch, a circuit breaker or a switch (switch-disconnectors) whose task is only to relieve voltage from all phases connected to the meter.
I quote paragraph PUE: 7.1.64. To safely replace a meter directly connected to the network, a switching device must be provided in front of each meter to remove voltage from all phases connected to the meter.

What shape is the key to open such a shield? WHERE there are group machines, use a screwdriver to pry them open and that’s it, and by the way, the door is always open. But the Big Door is a problem to open!

Alexei:
01/13/2015 at 20:09

Contact the Housing Office.

I have 2 Soviet black machine guns and a counter according to the same scheme, only there are no attackers. I will install Neva 101 (as I understand it will fit on the same holes). If you change Soviet machine guns to 3 to 16 (the third is in reserve for now). Should I put a machine between the meter? And which? All wiring is aluminum. What section is used (gas in the house)? Can a comb be made from aluminum? Should I install 4.5kA circuit breakers? Are the Indian Schneiders EASY9 very different from the Bulgarian Schneiders (at 2 times the price)?

I've been thinking about it for a month now, I got to the cross-section of the wire. I settled on copper 1x4 sq mm PUV brand.

Alexei:
01/20/2015 at 02:22

It is better to install a 2-pole 20A circuit breaker between the meter and the input wire. To install it, you need to buy and attach a DIN rail to the panel (the DIN rail is selected according to the width of the machine or taken longer, then sawed off to the required size). The inspector will put a seal on the introductory machine. The wire in old apartments with aluminum wire goes to 2.5 sq. mm. there is no less. The comb, or rather the jumpers between the machines, can be made from aluminum wire with a cross-section of 4-6 square meters. mm., but it’s better to take copper as you want and run it from the meter to the input machine, use the same wire to make jumpers on the machines, but I would buy a comb for 3 machines (in some stores they cut it according to required length). Vending machines for apartments should be taken with characteristics B or C.

Good afternoon, The protective shields in the floor panel have been removed, the wires are twisted both before and after the metering device. This is after the intrusion of an electrician from the housing office. I would like to force the housing office to restore it in accordance with the PUE. Tell me which sections of these rules can I rely on in my appeal? Thank you in advance

Tell me at what distance the floor (common) panel should be located from the apartment? Is this provided for according to the PUE or does it not matter.

And what wires are connected from the top to the panel, if it makes a difference which wire goes where? We have 3 wires!

Tatyana, do you mean the wires from the group machines going into the apartment? If yes, then you need to observe the polarity when connecting them - connect the phase to the machine, and the zero to the zero block. I don’t quite understand about the “3 wires” - where do they go?

Hello, I would like to know how you can turn off (on) wired Internet through the floor switchboard?

Incorrect question. But what, the Internet is always through the floor panel, and is certainly connected to the network? The Internet can also be supplied via optics, then you can turn it off using the classic method - from turning out plugs to cutting wires. For the whole apartment...

after a fire in one of the apartments on the 4th floor, in the switchboard of the 5th floor, all the wires were covered with molten pitch (I don’t know what this material is called), in one of the apartments, since November of this year, the light began to flash (intermittent), that is, then no, but now almost every day, electricians from the housing department they will come to take a look, tighten the nuts and that’s it, time will pass everything repeats itself, they say call the laboratory, what should I do?

I’m writing about an apartment on the 5th floor. Today the electrician came again, tightened the contacts, noticed that the entrance lamp was also blinking, in response to my proposal to clean the contacts, because the increased temperature had some effect on their surface, he stated that he had been working as an electrician for 4 years, and closed the box and left

Is it possible to independently replace the wires running from the packager to the meter and from the meter to the machines?

You can, if you can then seal the terminal compartment in the meter yourself. There is a possibility?

Answer: Peter: 02/13/2016 at 06:55
Only qualified personnel are allowed to carry out this type of work.

Let me clarify, is it possible to independently replace the wires running from the packet to the meter and from the meter to the machines during a planned meter replacement? I replaced the meter myself (according to all Mosenergosbyt rules), I didn’t like that the wires were aluminum. I would replace them too, while I’m waiting for the sealer.. But there are doubts that I have the right to change them. I wrote an application for unsealing the meter, etc., but what about the wires?

The package opens both conductors - and electrical work is not carried out under voltage. Do I have to have permission? Am I confident enough in my qualifications? If I change the wires, will I have to report to someone, like for the meter to Mosenergo? I'm more interested in organizational issues.

Answer: Peter: 02/15/2016 at 12:32
Peter's electrical installation is energized. And by turning off the power supply at your meter, you did not de-energize the electrical installation. To do this, you need to make switching in the ASU. To de-energize your floor power supply. Therefore, you continue to work under voltage at your own peril and risk.
Yes, Peter, you must have an access group and qualification as an electrician. You can tinker with your own conscience in your apartment; it is your property and you can dispose of the electrical installations in it as you wish. But the Floor Board is taken into account. The distribution board is not your property. And if during any work you make any mistakes, for example, without having the necessary skills or knowledge when connecting electrical appliances, this could end badly. Both for you and for your neighbors. Don't forget this.

Hello.
In the floor panel there is no load disconnection before the meter (neither a machine, nor a packetizer).
Is it possible to restart the counter in this case?
There is a suspicion that the counter has a “brain freeze” BARS-1.113.
Until you give it a good load, it doesn’t want to count energy.
Everything is bad with electricians in the housing office.

Yuri, this is unlikely to solve the problem. But nevertheless, if there are no switching devices in front of the meter (otherwise this is a violation), then you can turn off the power to the main riser for a short time, although its disconnection must be ordered in advance from the company that serves you with electrical services.

Good day, please tell me if the outlet wires for the package (we also plan to install it at 50A) are replaced with 6mm copper (large power load from the apartment) and from the package through the same 6mm lead into the apartment and assemble a panel with automatic machines there, you can Is it possible to do this? We leave the counter with the old SO-I466.

Good day!
I got a job at an energy sales company installing metering devices and would like to ask.
We are not given keys to interfloor switchboards, such keys should only be in the locker, key makers refuse to make from existing ones, is it possible to buy a similar blank and modify it with a file, or is it still possible to find a good master key maker, the key is in principle simple and a sample for I have it in my hands

Vladimir, you have nothing to do in these boards without the consent of the owner

I know that the meters in the floor panel are located in an inverted letter P. And according to the rules, how should the machines be located if they are not in a line? There are 4 apartments on the floor. There is a suspicion that the cunning neighboring family connected my 25A RCDs for themselves, and I got the 16A ones. This did not even involve reinstalling them, they simply reconnected the wires. ((When the machine was triggered, out of habit, I looked at other machines. But a lot of time had passed since I was interested in my machines, I could have been mistaken.

Where does such knowledge and data about P come from upside down? And what, exactly, is the difference - P straight, or P upside down, if there are either this way or that way, but four?
No matter how they are placed, it is not difficult to trace them with skill and understanding. But not with your fingers!

Elena, hello. To be honest, I didn’t quite understand you, namely, about the meters installed in an “inverted letter P”. It’s better to send me a photo by email, or better yet, to the Forum (link to it in the top menu of the site), there we’ll discuss all the points. Thank you.

We are talking about the “inverted P” arrangement apartment meters, i.e. the counting was carried out from the upper left counter to the upper right through the bottom (upper left 1kv, lower left 2kv, lower right 3kv, upper right 4kv). This order of arrangement was adopted in the USSR just so that residents would not get confused and would not check by switching off which meters belong to which meters, and even more so, would not climb on the panel. ???
In the distribution window, the levers of the machines were also located in a certain order (but what order, if they are not in line?) (for example, for temporarily disconnecting from the network in order to change the chandelier), the residents should not have been interested in the wiring.
After replacing the machines, I’m happy I haven’t gone to the distribution window for a long time. The other day, when I switched on a 180 kW chandelier at night, the electricity went out in half my apartment. For old time’s sake, I looked into the distribution window - all four levers showed the operating status. And the neighbors (according to my old memory of the location of their machine guns), just one of the 4 levers worked. It turned out that by location, these are now my machine guns. But my memory can guide me!
I thought, perhaps, you know the location of the machines according to the rules developed back in the USSR, if they are not in the same line... Oops...

where to find switching diagrams for cam packet switches.needed for connection welding machine mss 1902

Roman, what specific type, brand, model..., or “in general”? Then there are many options.

Elena, where and when did you see these “rules”? The USSR is not 25 years old, during which time a lot could have changed in your distribution center. And you need to know where your machines are, not according to the old and incomprehensible “rules,” but specifically, even by signing them with a marker after checking. Then your memory will fail. Well, figure out the power - 180 kW is a bit much.

Hello, I changed the meter in my apartment on Saturday, installed an ESO 711, in two days it generated 12 kW, despite the fact that I usually don’t consume more than 80 kW per month. On Thursday, a representative from REU will come to seal the meter.
The question is: is the meter defective or connected incorrectly????

I’ll add the light is blinking green, there were readings on the meter but I don’t remember whether it was 1 kW or 10))

This means that you consumed either 2 or 11 kW. Figure it out somehow, it’s very difficult to guess and help in such a situation.

maybe it's connected incorrectly?? although 4 contacts are there to confuse?(

Dmitry, good afternoon.

1. More likely Betar ESO-111, not ESO-711.
2. There is really nothing to confuse in a single-phase meter; it will either count or there will be a short circuit. For you, it has counted a certain amount of electricity, which means it is most likely connected correctly.
3. As an option, and this is most likely the case, the old meter greatly underestimated the power consumption. For what reason did you replace it - as prescribed?
4. As an option, self-propelled. But for two days 12 (kW) is too much. When an inspector comes to seal it, ask him and he will check the meter’s error and give an accurate answer.
5. Are you taking your readings correctly?!

meter SO-E711, with a digital display, I live in Kazakhstan from the manufacturer SAIMAT, it’s unlikely that the light bulb (3200imp/kW hour) blinks quite rarely and most likely 10-11 kW on the meter was already this and it’s annoying

The meter passport always wrote the value in kWh after state verification and acceptance, didn’t you look?

Well, in general, I pulled out this meter and changed it in the store where I bought it for a new one and installed it on Tuesday at 15:00, today Thursday at 12:00 it already had 11 kW, i.e. approximately 5.5-6 kW/day. In short, the result from replacing the meter is zero.
In the apartment (one room) there is a refrigerator working, nothing has been washed these days, half of the light bulbs are on the housekeeper, the computer is also working almost all the time, a microwave oven a couple of times, an electric kettle a couple of times, one person lives.
The meter was sealed today.
Damn it seems like a bit much(
There shouldn’t seem to be an electronic self-propelled meter, I didn’t find any extraneous connections in the switchboard to my machines or wiring, and there are no sockets in the walls adjacent to the neighbors’ apartments either.
CAN MY WIRING BE EXTRA LOAD???

Dmitry, it means your old meter greatly underestimated the readings. Everything turns out right. The refrigerator and PC, as you say, are a constant load. Let's take it in round numbers that they together consume 200 (W) or 0.2 (kW), maybe a little more, maybe a little less. You need to look at their specific characteristics or measure the current with clamps. So in 1 hour the meter will count 0.2 (kWh). Over the course of a day this will be 4.8 (kWh). Plus lighting, microwave, etc. So you get 5-6 (kWh) per day.

Yes, I already thought so too, I estimated the load, the computer there is powerful, of course it doesn’t work 24 hours a day, but I think the power supply there is 600-700 watts, because the person works with computer graphics, since I don’t live in an apartment myself, but rent it out rent, I can’t accurately determine the load on consumers, and the tenant may also be confused about something. Thank you all for participating

1 - it was not written - the sensitivity zone of the SE has shifted to the left by about an order of magnitude or more. If the wheeled one did not see the TV at close range in standby mode, the rest is similar, then your electronic one, look at the passport, will see a current that is negligible by consumer standards. And there are a lot of such devices in the house, which seem to be turned off, but still consume, and they all eat, eat, eat like moths...
2 - yesterday I turned on the two-chamber cold-storage ElZhi through a device that shows current, voltage, and consumption. energy, from 8-00 yesterday to 12-30 today 1.8 kWh of energy was accumulated, let it be 1.6 kWh from 8 to 8, multiply by 30 and you get it.
3 walls - unlikely. You would either be drowning or warming yourself somewhere, and SE would not be silent.

good afternoon. According to the diagram, it’s not clear. What is this from the neutral wire to the circuit breakers? 40A is written above it? And what is it on the diagram RSH 10A. THANK YOU FOR THE REPLY.

40 A circuit breakers for electric stoves, 25 A sockets, 16 A lighting. The extreme wire on the left and right groups and the right one in the middle are like ground to the plate.
The 10 ampere socket is a service socket, it was located in the control panel, three-pin, it’s just that everything is clumsily drawn. Take it on faith.

drawn that two machines for 16 and one for 25 are indicated in brackets at the top. And 40 amperes above the zero output. Interesting drawn

They painted as best they could. There is an original metal plate from the same control panel, painted exactly like this. Well, the artist was not an electrician, what should I do?

Good afternoon In railway floor panels. There are no protective panels on apartment machines. Tell me what material they can be made from (metal will be problematic).

Durable and non-flammable - textolite, getinax.

Please tell me, what is the point of mounting two apartments on the zero bus with one bolt, and the third with a separate one? To save space? This point is even reflected in the diagram.

If you attach it separately there will be no problems. Are there a lot of absurdities in this world? Here at least the wires are not charred along with the screw.

Congratulations to all the specialists. My problem is that an electrician was called upon request from Mosenergosbyt to replace the account. 1985 SO-50, delivered to NEV. But the data from it “got” very poorly into the viewing window of the electrical panel (staircase on the 4th square. 5th floor (Khrushchev). I was so upset that refused the installation, wrote it in the deed, in the apartment, it attached the old one and did not seal it. I saw it later
What should I do? I need to go to the elkomp. no filling??
Please answer quickly, because I have to go to him, and the woman“Circle”, they are easy.
Thank you.

Svetlana, of course you were stupid by refusing to install the new Neva launcher. Firstly: no one will seal the old PU for you anymore, since all its service life has expired (16 years + another 16 if there was verification). Secondly: it’s not your problem that the readings are not visible, the panel is usually opened and the readings are taken either by the residents themselves or by authorized specialists (I don’t know about you, it’s different everywhere). You have only one option - as quickly as possible, inform the company that seals the PU (meters). But only the one with whom you have an agreement, her phone number is on the receipt for payment of electricity, or in your management company(apparently this is Mosenergosbyt). And inform that you intend to replace the old control panel with a new one, but since you removed the seal (although, in principle, your control panel is considered unsuitable, and you were most likely charged for electricity according to the average or according to the standard) and tearfully ask them to install a new one. They will install the PU for you and seal it themselves. If you don’t do this, you will be given a huge fine for not keeping records; believe me, this is really no joke. Explain the situation, because you still have a certificate in your hands stating that it was not you who broke the seal. In general, the master should have initially outlined the whole situation to you. But I have never seen such a situation where people refuse to install because the numbers are not visible, this is simply unprecedented stupidity.

Why can’t the re-conductors from the apartment be connected to the switchboard body along with the zero ones.

Good day. I was going to replace the old soviet plugs with automatic switches. I have a five-story brick house(Khrushchev) built in 68 with four apartments per floor. On the electrical panel of the landing, the plugs are divided into two rows of eight plugs. For each apartment there are four plugs, two upper and two lower.
I have two upper plugs - rooms and sockets for these rooms, two lower plugs - a hallway, a bathroom, and a kitchen with a socket. Any of the two plugs of any row turns off everything, both rooms and sockets of the same rooms. Here's how to determine which circuit breaker is 16A and which is 25A, so that you can then replace it with switches with the appropriate ratings. I am writing at length to fully describe the situation.

Good afternoon
Unfortunately, I joined the community late.
AB-25 assault rifles or similar ones were installed in the floor panels, and
they were fastened with two screws to the rear panel and there could not be DIN rails there. In Russia, the TN35 rail was introduced by the national standard GOST R IEC 60715-2003.

Alexander. post from 03/31/2017 at 23:48
Question for you. Where is the metering device (meter) located between these “traffic jams”, or...?

My leftmost ones are the top two and the bottom two, as well as the packet switch on the bottom leftmost, everything is in the photo. Below there are four meters in a separate compartment, and there is also a compartment for low-current currents, and both compartments have no access, they are locked.

Alexander, first of all, you need to look at the cross-sections of outgoing cables or wires, depending on what you have laid from the switchboard to the apartment. And already knowing the cross-sections, select the correct nominal value of the machine. , for example, using the same caliper.

my 5 cents.
Actually, the question is, if anyone knows anything about this, it’s a five-story building with 3 apartments per floor, my property starts on the other side of the switchboard and I want to make a 3x6 VVG input, I marked the proposed hole for the wire with a cross (so as not to punch the wall and not insert the wire through door frame, as all the neighbors did), is it possible to drill there, will I end up on the highway? I believe the depth of the shield is 12 cm, and the thickness of the wall is 15-17 and, in principle, there should be no wires there, there is no wiring detector.
Thank you.

Vasya, we did this in one of panel houses. After all, the place where the main wires are laid and their entrance into the interfloor channels is clearly visible, but behind the shield itself nothing is laid or walled up in the walls. At least it shouldn't, because... wires are laid in the panel open method directly in the shield.

What device can be used to determine whether the switchboard body is grounded or neutralized?

Dear author, may I have a question? We have a two-story, three-entrance building, with three apartments on each floor.
Apparently the time has come to replace the floor panels, but I would not like to see this huge bulk of standard iron panels on the floor. Is it allowed to use regular shields, such as plastic ones from ABB?

Alexander! Did you read it carefully?
...The old single-phase induction meter SO-I466, which he wanted to replace with a newer SOE-55, was located on his landing in the floor panel.
In this article I will dwell in more detail not on replacing the meter, but on the floor panel itself and its diagram... (c)

Key words - “he wanted”!!! and the last sentence, right?

The quality of all meters is suitable, but not all electricians have suitable screwdrivers.

And most importantly, brains.

I wanted to place a fiber-optic interface converter into an Ethernet interface in the low-current section of the floor panel. But for this you need a power supply of 220 (12 volts is possible). How to correctly transfer power from the power section of the floor panel, from your meter to the low-current one? And in general, is it possible to do this according to the rules?

Vladislav, probably according to the rules it’s impossible. I, too, once thought, thought, thought... and then installed a 2-pole 2A circuit breaker in a plastic box in the low-current section of the floor panel in the vestibule to protect and safely replace the vestibule lighting diode bulb.

In this section I have some telephone boxes with a bunch of wires going to other floors. Telephone operators periodically visit and rummage through these boxes, but they don’t complain about my machine.

Why can’t it and what should all these IT specialists do? And so be it - they calmly pull it from the riser without asking anyone, and then the zeros and ones do not converge on the group and apartment SE. In our house, during the transition to condominiums, they found a couple of illegal IT and cable workers; the Housing Office supposedly once allowed them to do so.

Surfactant, I don’t know for sure, maybe formally it’s not possible. In our panel houses There are channels for telephone and radio lines, but they are often clogged with debris. Telephone operators also violate, they do not want to clean the channels and climb into the 380V compartment with their wires to move from floor to floor.
So if they ever complain to me about my machine, I will point them to their telephone lines running next to the riser.
And people sometimes install sockets in the low-current compartment to power all sorts of IT rubbish.

Yes, there are tons of such digressions. It is possible and impossible to hang telephones and metal lines of radio and telephone networks on supports, nevertheless they hang and fight with them, it all depends on the degree of filling of the glass - whether those interested agree or not. It was during the scoop that they didn’t ask, and everything hung in a row. But if you don’t allow anything else to be hung on power line poles, each operator will begin to plant their own poles??? And in the Russian Shch they make peace, knowing perfectly well the conditions of the game - you give me a shout out, I’ll give you a shout out.

Why did they install a 25A machine in this panel?

Alexander, for more powerful consumers, for example, the same electric stoves, only with less power than it was supposed to (5.6-8.0 kW) with the corresponding machine 40 (A), which is indicated in the diagram under the asterisk.

This is how it was in high-rise buildings with electric stoves - 40 A per stove, 16 and 10 for sockets and lights. Sometimes it’s 16 and 16, because they got the supplies.

Hello! Please, help! On the 5th floor we have 3 apartments per floor and on the landing there are old meters with a spinning disk. In theory, there are aluminum wires everywhere. I want to install machines with 25 ampere markings so that each room is independent, and machines with 16 ampere lights. RCD 40 ampere. Do I need to clarify something with the management company in advance or is all this within the framework of the state regulations and I can be calm? My husband says it’s possible, but my grandfather says you can’t, you only need 1 16 amp machine, otherwise everything at the neighbors and on the site will burn out.

Why do you need 25 amps in sockets, but 16 amps for lighting??? Will you install a welder and spotlights? For 16 sockets, for light and 10 is enough, RCD-25A
As for what the neighbors will burn, that’s just my grandfather’s opinion, nothing more.

I came home and the lights weren’t on, and a private contractor was working in the switchboard on the stairs, called by the neighbors while renovating the apartment. I asked why the light wasn’t on, he said that he accidentally touched a rotten wire and it fell off. Before this there were no problems with the shield. A minute later the light turned on. But the concern remained. What to do and how to check if everything is ok on my side of the meter.

Natalia, unfortunately, this happens in old switchboards that have not had normal maintenance for years (or maybe decades) - while no one touched the old wires, everything seemed to work, but if you accidentally touched it, something could fall off.
For example, this private owner was prevented from doing his work by chaotically located wires, and he decided to move them a little to the side, and one wire came off.
Whether he had the right to tinker with this shield is another topic. Check for seals on your meter. If you accidentally touched a wire, it fell off, then they screwed it back into place, then it’s not a big deal, you can call a housing department electrician to check everything. It’s worse if this private owner accidentally breaks not only a rotten wire, but also some kind of rotten seal on your meter. In this case, you need to quickly go to the appropriate office and write a statement so that you are not accused of breaking the seal.

Find a QUALIFIED AND SANE electrician. Alas, remotely, apart from flooding, it’s unlikely that anything will help.

Lounger: thank you very much for your answer. I just don’t understand how the iron wire could rot, aren’t they eternal? And I have a new counter. Everything else was changed for everyone in the house in 2000. Thanks again.

Natalia, as an option, there could be a weakened contact in the nut from the highway or some other connection point. When working in a switchboard, an electrician could accidentally help it come off with a slight movement of his hands. The second option, he simply could have mistakenly disconnected your apartment, and in order not to look stupid in your eyes, he came up with a story about a rotten wire. I don’t think that if a major renovation was done in 2000, there could be rotten wires there. In any case, the main lines and branches from them were changed. Although there could be rotten wires already after the meter, going, for example, to apartments, because the inputs to the apartments probably weren’t changed?! In general, it doesn’t matter, the main thing is that he restored your nutrition! All you have to do, as Lounger recommended, is just to check for the presence of a seal on the meter.

The photo is not so great, but the work is decent, the angles alone are worth it. Visual, accessible, understandable. I would give it for some pizarok.

And the electrician will leave after the chucha for the kitcha, there are no papers. Either work under a paper contract, or negotiate in advance and pay an advance. They work in the hope that only students will pay later, because they didn’t get burned.

Hello. We decided to change the machines in the apartment. The electrician turned off the old machines, which are located in a separate place... And the new machines are now standing right where the meters are... under the same door.
We are the only ones. I see that all of our machines are installed as they should be, but ours is different. Tell me, is this normal?

Elena, there’s nothing wrong with that, he just placed all the machines along with the counter on one DIN rail.

An unscheduled shutdown of electrical circuit breakers is a problem that almost every resident of an apartment and private house, the owner of a summer house, or a country cottage has encountered. Most often, traffic jams occur due to surges in the power supply network, short-term current overloads after turning on powerful household or construction appliances, or short circuits. In order to restore the power supply, it is necessary to determine the reasons for the outage and start the electrical circuit breaker.

The lights in the apartment went out: what to do?

Before you climb into the electrical panel yourself, you need to understand the reasons for the shutdown. So, if there is no light in the entire house and neighboring ones, then the cause of the shutdown could be problems at the power plant, rolling blackouts. In this case, you should turn off all electrical household appliances from the sockets (so that when high voltage current is supplied it does not burn out), and wait for the power supply to be restored. If you live in an apartment building of the post-war years of the twentieth century (for example, in a Khrushchev-era building), then most likely the safety plugs in your apartment or electrical panel on the site have been knocked out.

In order to restore power supply, you must:

Go out onto the landing;
Open the electrical panel;
Determine which of the plugs has flown out (this can be done visually: the white button on the black round plug will stick out from the body by several cm);
Press the white button into the fuse housing.

New ones may be installed at some sites electric machines. If the pedals of the machine are lowered, it means the plugs have been knocked out. In order to return the light, you need to move the pedals to the top position.

Why and how to turn off the electricity in the apartment

When carrying out any electrical work, the owners are away for a long time, or when potentially dangerous situations arise related to the quality of the wiring, the apartment must be de-energized. This can be done from the landing.

So, to turn off the electricity in an apartment, you must follow these recommendations:

If the plugs in the machine are old, ceramic, without buttons, in order to de-energize the apartment it will be enough to simply unscrew them;
If the plugs on the site are black, with buttons, you need to press the small red buttons on all of them;
If there is a new machine on the site, in order to turn off the power to the apartment you will need to lower its pedals down.

After this, you need to check whether you have turned off your machine. Otherwise, during repair work, you can suffer greatly.

It will be more accurate and easier to check the shutdown using a special indicator screwdriver.

Using this tool is simple: you just need to insert a screwdriver into a socket and check whether the indicator on the tool lights up. If yes, then the apartment is not de-energized. Any outlet in your apartment is suitable for this test.

How to turn off power to an apartment from the landing

An apartment panel may contain several groups of switches. One group may be responsible for the light in the rooms, the other for the current in the sockets. In order to de-energize the apartment in this case, it will be necessary to move all the toggle switches of the machine to the lower position or find a common switch to which phase and zero are connected. It is this switch that is responsible for introducing electricity into the apartment. This switch is located under your group in the electrical panel.

In old houses, in addition to the main circuit breaker, it is necessary to turn off the switch, which is responsible for zero.

This switch is located in the panel below. There are often two such switches for a standard landing. You can determine which of them applies to your apartment by logic: the one that is closer to your apartment will be your switch.

In this case, it is necessary:

Always check whether the apartment is de-energized (voltage in sockets) using an indicator screwdriver;
Warn neighbors about possible outages;
Unplug household appliances that require delicate handling (computer, refrigerator, washing machine);
Do not touch the plugs if the electric meter is faulty: a broken electric meter can mislead by showing that electricity is not supplied;
To continue repair work that requires electricity, it is necessary to use special carrying cords with sockets connected to the machine's wires. At the same time, such manipulations should not be carried out without a specialist.

So that, if necessary, you can quickly find and turn off your machine, you can sign it. So, above the work group you can write the apartment number with a marker.

Several ways to open the door panel without a key

The electrical panel is made of fire-resistant material, is located in the entrance and, often, consists of two or three sections responsible for the machine, light meters and devices operating on weak currents. Each section has its own door that can be locked with a key. This key may be kept by the electrician servicing the house or the concierge. Often, duplicates are taken from the main key and issued to each apartment. This is done so that, in case of unforeseen situations, residents can quickly react and not wait for an electrician. But what to do if you were not given the key?

There are several ways to open an electrical panel without a key:

If the shield is protected by built-in small locks (like on mailboxes), you can use a women's hairpin to open them. To do this, you need to insert the pin with one leg into the upper part of the lock, the other into the lower part, and try to turn the mechanism. Instead of a hairpin, you can use any other thin but durable object. The main thing is to act carefully so as not to break the object in the lock.
Simple mechanisms can be opened with a flat-head screwdriver. To do this, insert a screwdriver into the lock and turn it to the right.
Padlocks can be opened using a crowbar or pliers.

Before hacking the shield, you can contact your neighbors. Often, residents who have lived in the house for a long time have their own keys. In this case, after an emergency blackout of the apartment, the panel must be closed. This will protect curious children and adult residents of the house from injury.

If the traffic jams are broken, how to turn on the electricity (video)

Power outages in old houses are common, because old electrical wiring and the machines themselves are not designed for modern electrical engineering. Therefore, often, when simultaneously turning on large quantity electrical appliances, automatic machines. If your lights turn off often, then you, like no one else, should know how to quickly turn on the machine. After all, sometimes there is absolutely not enough time to wait for electricians. Use the tips above and turn on the machines yourself quickly and safely!

About a month and a half ago, one of my customers asked if I had a solution to somehow completely lock the floor panels. And it so happened that at about the same time I was making such locks on the floor panel of a sponsored mother of my acquaintance, whom I also worked with.

The topic of how to lock floor panels was raised in my post about. But I didn’t specifically describe anything there, but mentioned it casually. Now it's time to write a post!

So, locking the floor panels is a MUST in order to limit access to them unauthorized persons. Namely - all sorts of providers, local drunks or thieves. On the forums, people periodically frighten others with the fact that if you put some expensive introductory RCD or UZM-51m into the floor panel, then everything will be destroyed. It seems that such cases are rare now, but in the 90s - yeah, they did. People also smeared paint on the machine guns so that they would lose their presentation.

In new buildings, the people are usually more cultured, and things like UERM are used as floor panels. There are separate compartments for each apartment, which are locked with a small postal lock. Of course, such a lock is hidden with a thick screwdriver or crowbar, so it will only stop local violators.

But in the panels of old houses, the standard locks have long been broken (because everything has been neglected since the 90s, and no one then even thought about locking the panels), but there are no new ones.

So this sponsored acquaintance gave me a task: MUST! Because there are shady people hanging around the entrance! And I just bought a small grinder, which I recently bought, and I just wanted to try it out not only on the meter.

I remember how I made locks for my shields. Then I went to Leroy, found corners of suitable thickness, from which I made ears. This time I repeated everything: again I drove it to Leroy... but somehow I OVERDOED the thickness of the corners =))

And then - I didn’t notice how quickly I put it all on the shields. Here the grinder really saved me, because she sawed through this metal instantly. If I had grabbed a hacksaw again the old fashioned way, I would have been sweating like a fool. And with a grinder you can saw and quickly sharpen the edges...

As a result, after a couple of hours of leisurely work it turned out like this:

There was no need for special culture, it had to be done quickly and brutally (apparently, hehe, this influenced the choice of metal thickness). I didn’t bother with the panel door and simply sawed out the grooves there with a grinder.

From the inside of the shield door we insert the eyelet for the lock:

And from the inside we tighten it to the point of stupor. There are screws on the outside without heads, so you can’t just unscrew it. It’s clear that all this won’t hold up against an angle grinder or a bolt cutter—but it shouldn’t either.

Since the bolts without heads did not have threads along the entire length, but only at the end of the bolt, then with reverse side a piece of iron sawn off from the same corner was successfully placed, which gave required thickness. And in order not to bother with a bunch of lugs (I had to lock all the shield compartments, of which there are three), I simply made two pairs of lugs on the three doors of the shield. All these doors are held together by locks, and it is impossible to open one of them.

That's all! Maybe this solution will also work for someone.

Modern apartments, as a rule, are equipped with individual electrical panels. But residents of old houses were not so lucky. The equipment is located on the landing and is designed for two, three or even four neighbors. The owners do not have a key to the panel. In the event of knocked out traffic jams or life-threatening situations (for example, a fire), it is very difficult for them to reach the switch.

What is an electrical panel?

A modern electrical distribution panel in a residential or work area is a compact, convenient and visually aesthetic panel, which is intended for modular installation on this panel of special instruments used to ensure reception electric current from external and general high-voltage networks, as well as current distribution through internal electrical network apartments, houses or cottages.

The purpose of the distribution board is to control the supply of electricity to apartments and take into account the amount of its consumption. In addition, he is responsible for telephone and Internet network devices.

General features of floor panels:

they can be old (found in houses built in the last century) and new (in modern buildings), their difference is in the internal structure;
each of them has at least two, and often three compartments: one of them contains electricity meters, and the other is responsible for devices operating on weak currents (Internet, telephone); Each compartment is equipped with its own lockable door;
the compartment with metering devices must be equipped with special windows from which the indicators of the devices are clearly visible;
the material for the shield in the entrance can only be metal with a set of necessary properties;
to install it, choose a recess in the wall on the landing;
the doors open freely to an angle of 95 degrees;
access for unauthorized persons to the panel device is limited by a lock; the key is kept by the operator apartment house electrician
Types and types of electrical panels.

Surely, more than once we have seen abbreviations like: SHE, VRU, OSCH, etc. on billboards. all these intricate letters hide the essence of the devices, which is known to those who directly service them, and sometimes even those who service the switchboards become so accustomed to the abbreviation that they do not think about their purposes. So, let's start looking at the types and types of electrical panels from the main panel, the “king” of panelboards.

Main distribution board (MSB).

The main switchboard is designed for input of power power lines, electricity metering and distribution of power lines for objects. The device also serves to protect against short circuits and overloads in power supply networks. If we consider the hierarchy of electrical switchboards, then the main switchboard is at the very top level. Main

The distribution board is most often located on the territory of a transformer substation (TS), boiler houses, and production facilities.

Input switchgear (IDU).

The device, which includes a complex of electrical automation and structures, is used to receive introductory power cable, distribution of supply lines for ShchE, ShchK, ShchO, ASU, electricity metering, protection of lines from overloads and short circuits. Installed at the entrance to residential and public buildings, as well as in production premises(workshops).

Emergency transfer of reserve (AVR).

The AVR panel is equipped with special automation. The automatic transfer switch switches power from the main source to an additional one (generator) in the event of a failure of the main electricity supplier. After eliminating the accident, the ATS will transfer from the generator to the main line and after a few minutes the generator will be stopped. Used in industrial, commercial, communal buildings, as well as in cottages.

Floor board (SHE).

It is used in residential and administrative buildings to distribute electricity to 1–6 apartments.

The shield is divided primarily into three compartments:

Distribution compartment (modular automation for groups of electrical circuits).
Accounting compartment ( electric meters).
Subscriber compartment (telephone, intercom, TV, radio, etc.).

Apartment panel (AS).

As a rule, it is located at the entrance to the apartment in the hallway area. The main purpose of the control panel is electricity metering, distribution of group power lines in the apartment, modular automation protects the electrical circuit from overloads and short circuits. ShchK come in overhead and internal installation, metal and plastic versions.

The apartment panel is divided into:

Shchku – apartment accounting panel.
ShchKR – apartment distribution board.

Lighting board (OSH).

Lighting boards are installed in administrative, commercial and office premises, for infrequent operational switching on and off of automation. ShchO protects outgoing lines from overloads and short circuits.

Lighting boards are divided into:

OSHV (lighting panel with switch).
UOSCHV (recessed lighting panel with switch).

Control panel (control panel).

The control room is used to control automation, which is responsible for such mechanisms as: ventilation, heating, fire alarm etc. Parameters are adjusted manually.

How to open an electrical panel without a key yourself?

Familiarize yourself with the location and purpose of the driveway doors. Usually there are three. On the left there are two doors: horizontal, and below it - square. Behind the first of them there are machines, and behind the second there are electric meters. On the right is one vertical door, behind which low-voltage devices are placed, for example, antenna amplifiers and splitters, telephone terminal blocks. Sometimes shields of a different configuration are found. 2
Inspect the locks of each door. If they are equipped with protruding rectangular plates, you can open any of them using pliers. The horizontal position of the plate corresponds to the vertical position of the tongue (lock open), and vice versa, when the plate is positioned vertically, the tongue is in a horizontal position (lock closed). During major repairs Driveway front panels are sometimes replaced with new ones that have locks similar to those used on mailboxes. In this case, residents are most often given keys only to doors with automatic machines. Open and close it just like a mailbox.
When any door is open, observe following rules. Do not touch any metal objects inside the shield, even if you are absolutely sure that there is no high voltage on them - this may not be the case. Do not attempt to dismantle any items that do not belong to you. This even applies to the meter through which your apartment is connected - it is often the property of the electricity supply organization. Do not carry out any actions aimed at stopping or rewinding the meters, do not remove the seals from them. Do not turn off the circuit breakers through which other apartments receive electricity, except in cases where it is necessary, for example, due to a fire or an electrical injury received by one of the neighbors.
If you have electronic meters with controls, you can open the corresponding panel door and press the buttons located on them in order to find out the electricity consumption for previous months, at different times of the day. Do this carefully so as not to touch nearby live parts. The procedure for controlling counters using buttons is described in its instructions. It is impossible to rewind or stop it from the keyboard. Don't press buttons on neighbors' meters.
If it is necessary to repair the electrical wiring, open the door behind which the machines are located. Find two of them, marked with the same numbers as your apartment number. Having first turned off computers and other devices that cannot tolerate a sudden loss of power, check which circuit breaker feeds the chandeliers and which feeds the sockets. IN emergency situation You should turn off the machines immediately, without waiting for the computers to turn off.
Please note that the bell and socket between the bathroom doors are usually powered through the same machine as the chandeliers. During wiring repairs, a person should stand next to the panel to ensure that no one approaches the panel and restores the supply of electricity. Turn off and on machines carefully so as not to touch their clamps and exposed wires.
After finishing work with the devices located in the panel, be sure to close all its doors and lock them.

Preventative inspection of the electrical panel

The operation of the floor panel should be checked by a specialist from the management company in whose charge the apartment building is located at least once a year.

Unfortunately, this rule exists only in words. In life, a repairman comes to a call only after a breakdown or emergency, and you want to avoid both. Or, let’s say you are purchasing an apartment and need to assess the condition of the wiring.

You can carry out a preventive inspection yourself, the main thing is to comply with safety requirements.

To independently inspect the access panel, follow these step-by-step instructions:

Inspection of the external condition of the device. Everything is fine if it does not have serious cracks, chips or other defects, and the lock on the door closes tightly with a key.
Assessment of the condition of internal devices. Machines must be marked, and cables and wires must be clearly and clearly labeled.
Serviceability of contact connections. The following rules apply to the places where wires connect to metal: check for rust; inspect the bolted connections for the presence of washers, and tighten the nuts better. After this, pay attention to the connections of the wires with automatic meters.
Operation of switchboard switching devices. After all contacts have been checked, the nuts have been tightened and the bolts have been tightened, it is necessary to check the serviceability automatic devices. Return voltage to the electrical panel and turn on all automatic devices.

Then everything is very simple. Click the test button. Devices that continue to work are faulty and need to be replaced. Before testing, you must make sure that the contacts do not move away, otherwise the result will be unreliable.

Anton

Everything opens with a standard key. We have 2 types of them - one like for ancient locks with a beard and the second is simply a figured cut piece of iron. Both types are sold in hardware stores or from key dealers on the market.

Konstantin

It’s really true that there is no trick against scrap))))))) then those who will repair the panel will come to the forum.

Kolesnichenko Margarita

A screwdriver or something that has a flat shape

Burglars open doors different ways, even explosives. I'm not being sarcastic. The approach is the same here. Start with gentle methods and move on to rougher ones. Explosives are unlikely to be needed. Rough ones include crowbar and drilling.

trakoff@

In theory, the key should be in the management company (in the housing office, for example) You can ask there

Vadik

You can try pouring solvent into the keyhole or non-concentrated acid. “vdshka” is not sure that it will cope. Go to the housing office to complain. If there is an electrician in the same panel, then you must fix it yourself.

Yuri Morozenkov

Pliers

Olga Kuznetsova

I opened the mailbox with the key. Guy from the Future...

Using a crowbar or a pry bar :)))))) But in general, just press the door where the lock is and pull it from the middle…. once and done... Just don’t forget to close it back, otherwise you’ll get fined :))))) Or you can use a powerful screwdriver to turn the entire lock. . but this is only if the lock tongue is rotary and not retractable….

conclusions

To answer the question: how to open the panel in the entrance without a key, you need to try the following method.

In addition to the master key, a flathead screwdriver is also suitable. It should be thin. We insert it into the lock and try to turn it. In most cases it works with simple mechanisms.
If it's a padlock, then you can try physical strength and crowbar. Padlocks can be easily opened with a mechanical lever or a master key. If the next question arises: how to open the electrical panel in the entrance without a key, then you just need to contact the specialists. Today there are companies that specialize in opening locks various types without a key and without damaging the locking mechanism.

Modern apartments, as a rule, are equipped with individual electrical panels. But residents of old houses were not so lucky.

The equipment is located on the landing and is designed for two, three or even four neighbors. The owners do not have a key to the panel.

In the event of knocked out traffic jams or life-threatening situations (for example, a fire), it is very difficult for them to reach the switch.

The absence of a key in the public domain is explained by ensuring the safety of the residents themselves. People without special skills risk touching high-voltage wires, which can end sadly for them.

General features of floor panels:

they can be old (found in houses built in the last century) and new (in modern buildings), their difference is in the internal structure;
each of them has at least two, and often three compartments: one of them contains electricity meters, and the other is responsible for devices operating on weak currents (Internet, telephone); Each compartment is equipped with its own lockable door;
the compartment with metering devices must be equipped with special windows from which the indicators of the devices are clearly visible;
the material for the shield in the entrance can only be metal with a set of necessary properties;
to install it, choose a recess in the wall on the landing;
the doors open freely to an angle of 95 degrees;
access for outsiders to the panel device is limited using a lock; the key is kept by the electrician servicing the apartment building.

And yet, it is very inconvenient to invite a specialist after each case of knocked out traffic jams.

Types of electrical panels

The shield is needed to distribute voltage across all electrical systems that are connected to it. Automatic devices built into the device are used to turn on and off the current and protect against minor accidents and short circuits.

Electrical panels for entrances are made of metal, and for individual apartments– made of fire-resistant plastic.

The floor option combines several functions at once: energy distribution across all apartments on the landing and metering of consumed electricity.

However, there are switchboards without meters; they are installed in the apartment and are called group distribution panels.

Residents of new buildings are lucky to have electrical panels located directly on the occupied living space. They do not need to be opened without a key, since it is included in the kit.

But what about neighbors in an old house? How to open an electrical panel without a key yourself?

Procedure

By strictly following the following instructions, you can open the shield without harm to your health:

First, figure out what series of devices is installed in your entrance. How many doors does it contain? A standard electrical panel has 3 of them:

the long door on the right - there are low voltage connections for the telephone and the Internet;
rectangular at the top left - automatic switches are located behind it;
the square one at the bottom left, equipped with special windows, contains electric meters for each of the apartments on the site.

Determine the types of locks on each of the doors. If they are made in the form of plates protruding forward, opening them will not be difficult. Regular pliers are suitable for this. By the position of the plate and tongue, you can determine whether the lock is locked or not. Sometimes, the locks on electrical panels are the same as those on mailboxes. In this case, each resident receives his own key and can easily use it.
After you have managed to open the first door, follow the safety rules and do not harm the property of the management company, namely:

do not touch the wires and metal parts in the panel, they may be under high voltage;
do not repair the system yourself, even if you have basic electrical skills;
do not try to stop or turn off the meter, or exert any external influence on it, it is owned by the management company and you may be held accountable by law for its breakdown;
do not cut off the power supply to other apartments, except in cases of emergency, for example, if one of the residents is electrocuted.

If your panel is equipped with electronic meters, using special buttons you can get information about the electricity used (per month, day or night). At the same time, it’s worth overcoming your curiosity and not meddling with your neighbors’ appliances. Press the buttons with the greatest care so as not to touch the current conductors. How to properly use electronic meters should be described in detail in the instructions located next to the switchboard. Using the system, you can only familiarize yourself with the incoming data, but you cannot change the readings or stop the meter.
To fix electrical problems, follow these steps without waiting for a professional to come:

open the door, the one with the machines (yours should be marked with the appropriate numbers, they match the apartment number);
before turning off the power, be sure to unplug computer equipment and other devices from the sockets, the operation of which may be affected by a sudden blackout;
determine which machine is responsible for the sockets;
In emergency situations, machines must be turned off immediately, regardless of the type of operating devices.

Before carrying out renovation work with wiring, it is necessary to take care of the safety of the craftsmen. To do this, there must be a person on duty next to the switchboard who will not allow the power to turn on.
After completing all work with the devices in the panel, restore the power supply and securely close all doors with a lock.

Preventative inspection of the electrical panel

The operation of the floor panel should be checked by a specialist from the management company in whose charge the apartment building is located at least once a year.

You can carry out a preventive inspection yourself, the main thing is to comply with safety requirements.

To independently inspect the access panel, follow these step-by-step instructions:

Inspection of the external condition of the device.

Everything is fine if it does not have serious cracks, chips or other defects, and the lock on the door closes tightly with a key.

Assessment of the condition of internal devices.

Machines must be marked, and cables and wires must be clearly and clearly labeled.

Serviceability of contact connections.

The following rules apply to the places where wires connect to metal:

check for rust;
inspect the bolted connections for the presence of washers, and tighten the nuts better.

After this, pay attention to the connections of the wires with automatic meters.

Operation of switchboard switching devices.

After all contacts have been checked, the nuts have been tightened and the bolts have been tightened, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the automatic devices. Return voltage to the electrical panel and turn on all automatic devices.

Marking cables and wires in the electrical panel

According to safety rules and to facilitate the work of a professional electrician, the switchboard in the entrance has generally accepted markings.

In the document on technical operation the basic principles are clearly stated.

His name must be printed on the shield box.
Inside there is a piece of paper with a printed table. It indicates the number of sockets and connectors for chandeliers that consume electricity on the floor.
The shield must be accompanied by a diagram of the device and assembly.

The rules are stated in PTEEP:

all wires, cables and electrical circuits common use subject to labeling;
the name of the group circuits is placed on top of the circuit breaker or on a free space in the panel (marks may contain a digital designation, room name, etc.);
if inscriptions on the described devices are not possible, the information is entered into the technical passport.

According to GOST 23594-79:

For marking, special tags (PVC tubes) are used, and in their absence, PVC tape;
tag length – 2.5 cm and above;
inscriptions must be clearly visible and understandable;
It is possible to apply markings to an insulated part of a wire or cable.

Electricity distribution panels are not a toy and require serious consideration.

It is unacceptable to break the lock without a key by bending the door or using a crowbar. In this case, it will be difficult to close it back.

The electrical panel must not be kept in the public domain. In the future, this could lead to serious injury to bystanders, including curious children.

If you have problems with the floor device, it is better to contact a specialist, and make a duplicate key for yourself in case of broken plugs or an emergency.