How to sand walls. Grater for plaster - an assistant for finishing! How to clean walls from paint

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wall sanding

Finishing work is one of the main activities of the Construction Company TAURUS. Since the founding of LLC "TAURUS" (June 2006) and to this day, we demonstrate the highest level of ongoing finishing works. Improving from year to year, TAURUS employees prove in practice high level professionalism and consistency.

The symbiosis of machine and human work is the hallmark of the successful activities of LLC "TAURUS" in the range of solutions specific tasks. What makes us more competitive and attractive to customers.

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Stucco texture - an opportunity to transform your home

The texture and texture of plaster for a building is like clothing for a person.

With the only difference that if people have the opportunity to hide from the weather indoors, where they spend, as a rule, most time, the outer walls of buildings are exposed to withering heat and severe frosts, rains and winds, adverse factors of aggressive environment all year round.

The plaster is scratched when sanding (the topic is closed)

The puttying process, no matter how well it is performed, does not allow you to get perfect flat surface. There are traces of a spatula on the wall, transitions between layers, small bumps, tubercles and depressions are visible.

You can not do without grinding the surface. Sanding is the final process that prepares the surface for the final finish.

Any person who has the desire, patience and perseverance can perform grinding after puttying. The main thing is to choose the right tool, consumables and fixtures, to know the technology for performing work.

Grinding is done dry or wet way. Wet sanding is advisable on drywall. The main advantage of wet sanding is the relative purity of the process. You will not be bothered by the dust that is always present during dry grinding. The post-cleaning process is forgiven.

In home repairs, dry grinding is more often used.

Rule 1
Grinding after puttying is carried out no earlier than 24 hours after applying the putty layer.

Tips for choosing tools, abrasives and fixtures

Without the right tool and fixtures, it will not work to polish the walls after puttying.

You must have:

It is necessary to purchase a sanding block or mandrel to secure the sandpaper or sanding mesh. This device is properly called a hand skinner.

Rule 2
Sanding paper has a different grit and this is important for sanding walls and ceilings for painting. Numbers from 20 to 220 indicate a coarse-grained structure of the material, numbers 250-2500 correspond to fine-grained sandpaper.

Of the fixtures, you will definitely need a stepladder, a lamp or spotlight, a wide spatula. A wide table or goats are also suitable if their height allows you to work on the ceiling.

To ensure safety when performing grinding work, be sure to buy goggles, a mask or respirator, a cap, beret or handkerchief.

Let's move on to the process of grinding the surface after puttying.
Grinding of walls and ceiling after puttying is carried out in a well-lit, ventilated room on a completely dry surface.

wall polishing technology

At the first stage, with a spatula, go over the entire surface of the wall. Remove tubercles, all kinds of protrusions, influxes. If you find large depressions or pits, putty them, do not try to remove them by grinding.

Rule 3
Sanding is started only on a completely dry surface.

Rule 4
Should be installed quality lighting on one side at an angle to the surface. Its position must not be changed during the entire grinding cycle.

The second stage includes surface treatment of coarse-grained sandpaper or sanding net. Consumables are attached to the grinding bar.

Surface grinding is carried out from top to bottom, processing small areas with rotational movements. The size of the plot should not exceed 1 × 1 m.

It is better to grind from top to bottom in strips no wider than 1 m. Hand movements during grinding are made in a circle, but you can also move up and down or left-right.


Do not press hard on the tool and grind for a long time in one place. You can wipe off the entire layer of putty.

After passing the entire surface with a coarse-grained abrasive, continue grinding with fine sandpaper. When using a smaller emery material be sure to bring the light source as close to the wall as possible.

Rule 5
Finishing grinding is performed with less sweeping movements and with less pressure on the tool.

Hard-to-reach places can be sanded with sanding sponges or grandfather's method, folded in several layers of sandpaper.


Never work on corners and hard-to-reach places with a skinner. You will only spoil the surface.

Rule 6
Choose the right grit consumable. Properly selected emery should not leave deep scratches on plaster.

The grinding process is time consuming and requires considerable effort to perform. It can be mechanized using a special grinding machine. Grinders are produced that provide for the connection of a vacuum cleaner, which makes the grinding process practically dust-free.

Do not use belt sanders. They are good for woodworking. An eccentric or orbital sander will do.


Although the application grinder speeds up the grinding process, without having special skills, it is very difficult for a novice builder to get a high-quality polished surface.

It is necessary to feel the tool not only to move it correctly, but also to regulate the pressure force of the tool on the plane being ground. Yes, this tool is quite expensive.

After sanding, remove the dust layer, do a wet cleaning and check the surface quality. Before finishing, a layer is necessarily applied.

Tip 1
It is better for a novice builder to use hand grinders.
fixtures.

Sanding a ceiling is no different than sanding a wall. The process is more time consuming and requires patience and accuracy.

More about abrasive

Grinding mesh is more convenient than sandpaper, because it does not clog with debris and dust during operation. But the right sandpaper also gives good results Plus, it's significantly cheaper. When performing wall grinding after puttying with your own hands, it is best to use sandpaper numbers 120 ... 180 (coarse-grained), and final grinding to carry out with abrasive of numbers 220-280 (fine-grained).

Tip 2
We grind the first layer of putty using a coarse abrasive with a grain size of No. 120-180. Second layer finishing putty use an abrasive with a smaller grit No. 220-280.

Sandpaper and mesh are marked in the same way, with reverse side material.

How to control the quality of grinding?

At the beginning of the article it was indicated that the grinding process must be carried out with good lighting constantly directed from one place. Properly adjusted lighting allows you to constantly monitor the grinding process and its quality by glare on the surface or through the light, applying an even ruler, building level. There should be no gaps between the control tool and the wall.

When it comes to the ceiling and it is ready for painting, the ceiling needs to be sanded better. Highlight the grinding area with light, this will allow you to see surface defects. Visible scratches are puttied and cleaned after drying.

Grinding work ends with a thorough cleaning of the surface and the room and the application of a primer to the dried and sanded surface.
In addition, we recommend watching a video on grinding walls and ceilings. Good luck with this dusty business!

Video: Sanding the walls and a little more.

Video: Sanding the ceiling without dust

No matter how hard you try, it is impossible to get perfectly smooth walls after puttying them. In any case, traces of the spatula, uneven transitions of the treated areas, tubercles, depressions and other defects will remain on the surface. That is why you need to grind the walls. Let's figure out how to sand the walls after puttying.

How to sand the walls after puttying?

The first thing to do is to get the right tools and consumables. You will need:

• Several varieties of abrasive mesh or sandpaper.
• Sanding bar.
• Sanding sponge (used for hard-to-reach places).
• Ladder.
• Good lighting: spotlight or pendant lamp.
• Construction spatula small size.
• Personal protective equipment: respirator, goggles, headgear.

Experts recommend sanding the walls after puttying them, before painting the surface or before wallpapering. Often grinding is carried out in other types of construction work. The grinding process is relatively simple, but quite laborious and dusty. How to sand the walls after puttying? At manual grinding you can use sandpaper or a special abrasive mesh. The choice of material depends on the personal preferences of the master.

• Abrasive (grinding) mesh for putty– its advantage lies in the perforated structure. All construction dust will pass through the holes, so when working it does not clog as much as ordinary sandpaper. It is necessary to change the mesh in the course of wear, which can be determined by appearance: if it starts to tear or you feel that the sanding process is no longer as effective, then it should be replaced. As a rule, the putty grout mesh is sold on the market in pieces the size of which corresponds to the size of the bars, so you just have to install it and get to work . But remember that the bars are also different, so when purchasing a mesh, consider this factor. The disadvantage of the sanding mesh is a higher price than sandpaper.
• Sandpaper for putty- its main drawback is that during operation it will constantly become clogged with construction dust, so it will have to be changed much more often than the mesh. You can buy sandpaper in the most different options: ready-made pieces, small rollers or large rolls. If you decide to stick with sandpaper in rolls, then you need to decide how you will cut it, taking into account the size of the bar, in order to get a minimum of waste. Of course, you can buy already cut pieces, but such a purchase will cost much more.

In addition, sandpaper has such a thing as graininess, which is indicated by a numbered marking. The choice of grain causes some difficulties for inexperienced craftsmen. The higher the serial number sanding belt, the higher its granularity (the number of grains per square centimeter), and vice versa. For example, coarse-grained tapes are in the following range: from P20 to P220, fine-grained - sandpaper marked from P240 to P2500.

Sanding the walls after puttying is performed in two stages. Here it must be remembered that the first grinding is done with coarse-grained emery, and the final grinding with fine-grained. For execution repair work in the apartment, they mainly use sandpaper with a grain size of P80–P280. Not so often (for "jewelry" processing) smaller abrasives can be used - P320-P360. After treating the wall surface with a starting putty, it is recommended to polish it with a coarse sanding P100–P180. Sometimes emery marked P80 is used for primary processing, but this is too rough material and, for example, it is not suitable for painting. After processing the walls with a finishing putty, the surface is polished with fine-grained sandpaper P220-P280.

How to sand the walls after puttying?

Before sanding the walls after puttying, you should make sure that the finishing layer is completely dry and ready for processing. Take care of good lighting in advance - it is necessary that the light on the treated area falls at an angle and only from one side. Remember to take care of your personal safety, always wear goggles, a hat and a respirator. There will be a lot of dust!

Large protrusions can be removed or trimmed with a small, clean spatula. After that, fix a rough skin on a sanding block. It is always necessary to grind the wall in the direction from top to bottom and from left to right, while not the entire surface is processed at once, but is divided into small sections.

If you have never sanded walls before and are not sure if you have chosen the right abrasive grit, then first be sure to practice on small plot somewhere in the corner. After a short sanding, check the result - if you find scratches on the surface, it is better to replace it with an abrasive with a finer grit.

It is still permissible to use coarse-grained emery for wallpapering, but it will no longer be suitable for painting walls, since even small defects should not be allowed - they will very clearly manifest themselves after painting.

When grouting, you can’t press too hard on the emery bar, although, of course, you still have to make some effort. It is not recommended to grind in one place for too long, so as not to overdo it: sanded, examined the surface for irregularities, moved on to the next section. If large depressions are found during the initial polishing process, then it is better to skip them and treat with putty later.

After sanding the main surface of the wall, you need to start processing corners and other hard-to-reach places. In this case, use sanding bar can only harm the putty layer. Therefore, it is best to use sanding sponges that have beveled corners. In the absence of this material, the corners can be sanded with a sheet of fine sandpaper folded in half.

How to sand the ceiling after puttying?

The ceiling attracts no less attention than the walls, and every flaw on its surface will be evident. The technology of grinding this surface is no different from grinding walls, except that it is much more difficult to carry out work on the ceiling. Therefore, in the question of how to sand the ceiling after puttying, it is better to understand, having in the arsenal.

During the repair, we use a huge amount of hand tools that help us cope with the tasks. Today we want to tell you about the indispensable help a plaster grater provides us with when finishing walls.

After the completion of plastering work, we see even beautiful walls that are ready for further decorative processing. I wonder how a specialist makes the surface so smooth and even? Of course, the point here is the tool that is used in the work, usually it is a trowel, a trowel and a plaster grater. During operation, each of this set of instruments plays its own special role, but only a grater can make the surface smooth.

In theory building rule sets the direction, helps to remove excess mortar from the surface and form the basis of the plane. A trowel will help remove flaws: lack of mortar, fine leveling of the base, while the grater is designed for fine grinding of plaster, which results in a smooth surface without the slightest flaw. The specialist plasterer makes certain rotational movements on the fresh mortar, thereby smoothing the surface, making it perfectly flat.

In practice, in repair and construction work, a huge number of graters of various configurations are used. Each such tool is designed to perform a certain type of work, but has a common name: a grater.

One of the tasks of repair work is to level the surface of the walls, floor, ceiling. The list of such works usually consists of plastering the surface, as well as further finishing with putty. These works are usually carried out under the brand name "preparatory", using rough tools that cannot ideally bring the surface to condition. That is why a construction grater has appeared in everyday life, which allows you to more accurately give the surface the proper look and achieve the highest leveling quality.

It is possible that initially the grater was used to grind the finished plaster layer to zero, respectively, it coped with this task. Of course, it was impossible not to notice all the conveniences that this instrument gave to the masters, the design of which is painfully simple. But, as they say, everything ingenious is simple, and it is impossible to argue here. The grater device is, first of all, a small plane and a handle fixed on this plane, for the convenience of work.

Based on this design, the grater began to be used everywhere, helping to level the surface after putty. Screeds, on which there are defects, are rubbed with a grater. Even an ordinary, rusty sheet of metal can be very quickly cleaned with a grater by placing an emery cloth on it. The list of tasks is so diverse that you can endlessly list all the positive aspects of this tool. But let's stop and talk about the main function of the grater: using it in plastering works and application in painting rooms.

More recently, when production was not developed construction tool, graters were made from ordinary wood. The plane was a simple wooden block, the handle, respectively, was cut from the same bar of a suitable size. But in practice, such a tool was not very convenient to use, due to the fact that the tree absorbs moisture very well.

After working with such a tool for a while, one could notice how the plaster trowel became a little heavier, which created an additional burden for the worker. Second, no less important point: after such a grater dried out from moisture, its working surface became semicircular, this was the result of moisture on the wooden surface.

Today, things are completely different, due to the development of technology, the tool is produced from various lightweight materials, plus everything, the grater has become moisture resistant and does not absorb moisture at all. As a rule, for the manufacture of such tools, ordinary dense foam and polyurethane are used. Here are a few advantages of a tool made using new technologies compared to wooden counterparts:

1. The convenience of the tool in work is achieved due to the fact that the tool weighs very little. It is this factor that allows you to increase the quality of work and productivity.
2. The price of the tool is not high, and this is also a merit modern material from which graters are made.
3. Durability, for example, a polyurethane grater is able to do the job on 1000 square meters of the treated surface.
4. Various tool sizes, today, when choosing a tool, almost any size of the grater's working surface is available to us, they are suitable for both professionals and beginners.

But do not deny the fact that such a tool can break down, in the case of a grater made of foam, usually the handle suffers from breakdowns. It is necessary to be careful in work, not to make strong pressure on the handle and, of course, not to throw the tool, protecting it from mechanical damage.

As a rule, construction work is carried out in stages, and if the plastering of the walls has already been completed, the next step, according to the law of the genre, is the puttying of the walls with leveling to zero. No matter how professional the master painter is, in any case, after applying the putty on the walls, there will be defects in the form of sags or depressions.

A grater for grinding putty will help to cope with such flaws. This hand tool is based on the principle of a plaster float, but differs to a large extent from it. In general, the same handle and working plane are the main components of the grinding tool, but if in the case of plaster we smooth the surface with a working plane, then in the case of putty we need to process the wall with emery cloth.

In order to fix the emery skin on the work surface, the grinding grater has special fasteners along the edges. Such fasteners allow you to clamp the emery skin and fix it tightly so that you can clean the putty walls, removing sagging from them. Of course, while there was no such construction tool, craftsmen often used a plaster float, in work surface which small carnations were clogged, and thus the emery skin was fastened.

Absolutely anyone hand tool you need to be able to use it correctly, the grinding grater also has some features of use, which we want to tell you about. We will start by choosing an emery cloth, on which the quality of the work done on cleaning the walls directly depends, and we will deal with the basic rules of work step by step.

How to use a wall sander - step by step

Step 1: Selecting the sandpaper to work with

Work on grouting putty is performed not with ordinary sandpaper, but with special meshes with abrasive coating. They are specially designed for our instrument. Like ordinary emery cloth, the mesh has different cell sizes and, accordingly, the density of the abrasive coating. When choosing, first of all, consider the composition of the putty with which your walls are finished, for soft putty you can use smaller cells, for hard putties, on the contrary, larger ones with a massive emery coating are suitable.

Step 2: Correct installation of the mesh on the grater

First of all, the mesh or emery cloth must be well stretched on the working surface, in our case, the grater, equipped with a nut for grinding, allows you to easily carry out this operation. In order to ensure tension, initially with a knife or scissors, make an incision on the mesh or skin opposite the mounting bolt. Thanks to the incision, the skin will go under the mounting bar and will hold tightly there. When the first side is fixed, on the other side you need to make the same incision and pull the skin on the work surface as tightly as possible.

Step 3: Cleaning the walls, some subtleties

An important factor for achieving a high-quality result of wall processing is the correct movements made by the master and, of course, pressure sensitivity during work. First of all, do not press hard on the grater, with strong pressure on the surface to be treated, you can simply make unnecessary "holes" that will have to be additionally putty. As the painters say: you must feel the rhythm of work. Also, when cleaning walls, it is necessary to make sweeping circular movements and figure-of-eight movements in order to immediately capture a significant area for processing. Cleaning small areas of the area, we run the risk of making holes on the wall with our own hands, which is categorically not recommended.

Of course, high-quality processing may not work right away, but with each new square meter On a cleaned wall, you will improve your skills and catch your individual rhythm in work.

In this article, we will learn how and with what to grind walls, what tools and materials to use, get acquainted with interesting nuances that we may encounter during work. The same operation is also called wall sanding.

Why you need to sand the walls

All the procedures that we did before: plastering, puttying - these are all procedures for leveling the wall. Plaster - rough, putty - thin. And now the process of sanding or polishing the walls begins.

Even after applying a thin layer of putty, in any case, small bumps remain on the wall, tubercles, formed mainly by the sharp ends of the spatula, which remain when we disperse the putty and connect one part of the putty wall to another.

That is why when puttying it is better to use a large spatula so that the wall leveling area is maximized. But the joints, no matter how hard we try, are still traceable. Therefore, after you puttied the wall, you need to let it dry (at least a day) and you can start sanding the walls.

IMPORTANT!

Do not try to accidentally prime the wall after puttying! Grinding begins immediately after puttying!

What tools and materials are needed in order to sand the walls

So, let's look at what we need to have in order for wall polishing to start.

For sanding walls, a sanding block is usually used:

In addition to the bar, for grinding it is necessary to have sandpaper or a grinding mesh, which are fixed into the bar before starting work:

Sandpaper on the left in the picture, sanding mesh on the right.

What to be guided by when choosing a bar and grinding material (sandpaper, mesh)

Grinding mesh

The advantage of the sanding mesh is that it does not get clogged with putty dust during operation. The mesh itself is perforated and all ground putty will pass through the mesh. It must be changed during normal wear and tear, which is determined by the appearance of the used mesh. If the mesh is torn in places or you already feel that grinding is not going as efficiently, change the mesh to a new one.

Usually the mesh is sold in ready-made pieces right to the size of the bar and you just need to install it on the bar and work. But, you need to remember that the size of the bars is also different, as shown in the picture. Therefore, taking the grid, immediately select the bar for its size. Mesh is more expensive than sandpaper.

Sandpaper

Sandpaper during operation will become clogged with ground dust and the sandpaper will have to be changed more often than the mesh. You need to be aware that sandpaper, although cheaper than mesh, is also not a cheap material. It is for sale in various options: large rolls, small rollers, rectangular pieces.

If you decide to sand with sandpaper, then you need to figure out how you will cut it, taking into account the size of the bar, so that there is as little waste as possible. Of course, you can refuse to cut the sandpaper, and buy cut pieces directly ready for the bars, but it will be more expensive! There is the concept of sandpaper graininess (paper with different grains).

In order not to blow your mind on this topic, buy paper with a grain of 60, 80 and 100 in a small amount in the store and try to work with it. There is no exact recommendation on which grain to take. But it is better not to take less than 60 for sure, because it will be a very rough sandpaper. More than 100 is also not very good, because it will be very clogged with dust during processing and will have to be changed very often.

IMPORTANT!
The walls that you will be sanding usually go further either for wallpapering or for painting. In the case of painting, the wall must be absolutely smooth, I would even say polished. In this case, the craftsmen grind the wall 2 times. The first time, for example, with 60 sandpaper, in order to remove obvious large frozen pieces of putty, and the second time they take an even thinner sandpaper, for example, with a grain of 120, and already polish the wall with it. But in the case of wallpaper, this is clearly a redundant operation. For wallpaper, it is enough to go through the wall once.

Grinding stones catalog

Grinding process

The sanding process is much simpler than, for example, puttying or plastering. All you need to do is to take a bar, fasten a piece of sandpaper or sanding mesh to it with special clamps and start working. This is what the sanding bars look like, ready to go. On the left is a bar with sandpaper installed, on the right - with a sanding grid installed.

It can be seen from the figure that the size of a piece of sandpaper or mesh should be longer than the plane of the bar itself, just as long as it is possible to fix the sandpaper or mesh with the help of bar clamps on both sides.

IMPORTANT!

Remember, wall sanding is a very dusty job! Be sure to read the recommendations in the article before you start working.

When you have placed the abrasive on the block and taken all protective measures against building dust, you can start working. It is best to start sanding the wall from the corner and go towards the other corner. I always sand the walls from top to bottom in small strips (about a meter wide). We polished a strip a meter wide from top to bottom, moved on to the next one.

How to sand walls? Take the bar in your hand and start with a little pressure to pass it along the puttied wall. Movements: up-down, left-right. The main thing is to make sure that in the place where the wall is already smooth, you do not need to continue rubbing for a long time. You must remember that if you rub for a long time, then you can thus wipe off all the putty, which of course is not included in the plans. We made sure that the section of the wall was smooth, almost polished - we went further.

It happens that you come to a section of the wall where for some reason a deep hole has formed. In this case, you do not need to rub a lot and for a long time around the hole in order to grind off the putty around the hole to its bottom. Leave this small area alone. Then, when you sand everything and prime the wall again, you just take rubber spatula, which I mentioned in the article and once again putty this hole with a thin layer of putty flush with the wall.

IMPORTANT!

Of course, I must tell you that wall sanding can be done faster if applied.

When you are done, pick up the building level and attach it to the wall. At any position of the level, its plane should fit snugly against the wall along its entire length. There should be no gaps. If, nevertheless, gaps are formed, then you put too much putty in some places. Identify these places and try to grind them off with the same bar.

That's all. In this article, we learned how and with what to sand the walls. However, do not rush to paint the wall or glue the wallpaper. After grinding remained. Did you have sanding problems? How often did you change the sanding on the bar?