Water pipes      05/18/2019

Graphite substrate for obtaining pyrocarbon plates. Question about the substrate for the grinder belt (porcelain stoneware? glass? graphite) Graphite substrate for the grinding belt

The graphite substrate is obtained by pressing and rolling graphite onto a binder material. A feature of these substrates is high thermal conductivity over the surface, more than 300 W / mK, in a wide temperature range (from - 60ºС to + 500ºС). When using it, it should be taken into account that graphite also has electrically conductive properties.
Benefits of using Kerafol underlays:
1. thermal pads quickly remove heat from the source, thanks to the graphite component (creation of so-called thermal bridges);
2. easy and uniform application, reduced assembly time, thanks to the adhesive layer and physical properties material;
3. pressing force that does not damage the material - up to 60 MPa;
4. thermally conductive materials do not emit harmful substances during installation and operation. Certified by RoHS (English Restriction of Hazardous Substances) - a directive restricting the content of harmful substances;
5. Thermally conductive substrates are flame retardant according to UL-94 standard. UL (English Underwriters Laboratories Inc.) - a company for standardization and certification in the field of safety engineering (USA);
6. Materials do not dry out with constant use, hence the thermal conductivity will remain unchanged for many years.

Comparative characteristics of the main parameters of KERATHERM® graphite substrates

Marking of KERATHERM® graphite substrates:

Keratherm 90/10

basic version 500x1000 0,150
0,200

Keratherm 90/15

for filling with glue or varnish 460x1000 0,200

Keratherm 90/20

with adhesive layer 460x1000 0,200

Substrate Size Types:

The symbols of the substrates are affixed according to the scheme:

Thermally conductive film (substrate) Keratherm

Catalog marking
Dimensions, mm
Thickness, mm
Standard designation

Examples of the conditional designation of substrates:

1. Preliminary preparation.
Remove protective layer.
2. Application.
Apply a substrate to the component. When applying, make sure the substrate covers the component.
In the case of using thin heat-conducting substrates with an adhesive composition, the adhesive composition is applied to the reverse side of the substrate and covered with a protective layer. In this case, after removing the protective layer, the substrate is attached with an adhesive side to the heat absorber or housing. When applying, make sure that the protective layer is removed.

3. Assembly.
Assemble and apply pressure so that the material adapts to the component.

Keratherm thermal substrates are generally resistant to water, oils and their mixtures, organic solvents and chlorinated hydrocarbons, as well as detergents used for degreasing and cleaning heat sinks, housings and printed circuit boards.
These materials can, in rare cases, cause blistering or breakage of the edges of the thermally conductive substrate, the degree of blistering depending on the period of contact and the type of solvent used.
After drying, the edges, the integrity of which has been violated, return to their original state without changing the thermal or electrical properties. Due to the short contact time, Keratherm substrates can be placed in conventional solder baths.

All non-adhesive Keratherm materials generally have an indefinite shelf life and use when properly stored under standard conditions ( room temperature 18°C to 22°C, rel. humidity within 50-70%, no direct sunlight) in original unopened packaging. A limited shelf life is provided for substrates with adhesive tapes.

DocBB 16-03-2013 23:16

Lord. I have a question like this.

While I had an old grinder with a speed of 22m / s, I used polished porcelain stoneware and did not know the problems. I changed the tiles every two or three months and everything was ok.

With a new grinder at a speed of 35 m / s, the tile heats up very strongly in the place of pressing in 7-10 minutes of work, and if you do not take a break and do not let it cool down, then it starts to crack and crumble easily.

Dimmu44 16-03-2013 23:26

Slav, what do you glue the tiles with? And what is the reverse surface of the tile?
I also struggled with this issue before.
The reverse surface of the tile was squares. Glued at the moment 88. Everything also burst. Sinned on the quality of porcelain stoneware. Then I bought (I don’t remember the exact name) glue-sealant Moment (transparent), shed all the voids between these squares. The tile has been standing for six months. Those. As I understand it, there should not be any voids under the tile.

But with your performance....

DocBB 16-03-2013 23:31

glue with poxypol. On g10 for how many years and everything is ok. Behind the squares.
The first tile that just crumbled (that's right, it didn't crack, but just pieces fell out) was glued from the manufacturer with a sealant.
Is there some kind of heat transfer adhesive? like a paste for radiators in a computer .... Although met. The corner at the back also heats up, God forbid ..... Can a radiator stick to it from behind? or immediately organize water cooling????

alex-wolf 16-03-2013 23:38



Question. Is there any more durable material?
How do factories that use grinders come out in such situations? Can't they work 10 minutes and wait 20?


well, you have problems. What came to mind .... reduce friction, graphite, teflon ..... who knows, never encountered .... solve the problem, tell .... not relevant yet, but it won’t hurt to know.

On tape grinding machines there is a graphite substrate on Bosch, Makita and others .... maybe try it.

Dimmu44 16-03-2013 23:41

Slav, and if on the corner in which you clamp the blade, on the reverse side, with the same paste (for computers), glue radiators to remove heat (copper for video cards are sold?
I've been thinking about this for a long time. And if the corner is made of aluminum. It has better thermal conductivity.
Well it is, dreams

DocBB 16-03-2013 23:45



on the corner into which you clamp the blade, on the reverse side, with the same paste (for computers), glue radiators to remove heat


quote: Originally posted by Dimmu44:

And if the corner is made of aluminum. It has better thermal conductivity.

what about the meaning? Heat is removed from the blade to the corner only while the other side of the blade fits snugly against the corner.
When the descents have reached the butt on both sides, or almost to it, then there is almost no contact between the blade and the corner at the point of heating with its tape.
The corner does not heat up almost, and putting it into the water is not a problem.
The question of heating the KG tile by rubbing the tape.

vityuxa 16-03-2013 23:48

"Look for a woman" How frogs say. Let's say no experience on the grinder in comparison with yours, but the reason lies in the heat-insulating "gasket" whether it be glue, adhesive tape, sealant is not important, when fixing working surface to the part, and this metal must remove heat! Experience from past life: only special adhesives I "planted" my porcelain stoneware on Radial with no problems. http://kellereurasia.ru/teploprovodnyj-klej-radial/ Sincerely, Victor.

Ily_a 17-03-2013 12:00

Pykh has a red-hot piece of iron instead of porcelain stoneware (u8 from his words), its heat dissipation is certainly better than that of ceramics, but there are nuances - pits are obtained over time, and the surface must be re-grinded.
I tried to put ordinary glass on g6 - it fell down, changed it to porcelain stoneware, until I didn’t seem to notice much heating, it stands on an ordinary rag double-sided tape (with which carpets are glued to the floor)

Knifemaker 17-03-2013 12:18

Glory! I also noticed on mine that if porcelain stoneware is glued to epoxy, it cracks and crumbles noticeably faster than nails glued to liquid.

I want to try to stick on double-sided reinforced tape.

vespa32rus 17-03-2013 12:45

contact the Tape Manager, he also sold graphite specifically for these purposes, I think he will not advise garbage

Kromeshnik 17-03-2013 04:51

There is such a problem, I thought it depends on porcelain stoneware, I tried different ones, some are slightly better, some are worse, but the result is the same. There were thoughts about glass from ovens or wood-burning stoves, or top panels from "glass" stoves, but so far the hands have not reached.
Sincerely

prim2005 17-03-2013 04:57

quote: glass from ovens or wood-burning stoves, or top panels from "glass" stoves

Tempered glass is not cut by anything. Maybe with a laser?

Halit 17-03-2013 06:56

Slav, I'm using 3M double-sided black tape...

it happens - the tile cracks (rarely), but it works ...

seroja 17-03-2013 08:09

quote: Pykh has a red-hot piece of iron instead of porcelain stoneware (u8 from his words), her heat dissipation is of course better than that of ceramics,

If you really try to make a steel substrate, take it with high wear resistance like 110G13L (Hadfield steel)?
Heat dissipation is good, periodically level the plane, grind.
http://www.bila.ru
Well, what is one of the options?

limitmaker 17-03-2013 08:16

And I first put porcelain tiles not polished (thickness about 4-5 mm), put on double-sided tape, black simple, like foam. Broke after 2 weeks. It seems that due to the uneven load, I also did not remove the ribs on the back at first. Then he grinded off all the bumps on reverse side, also on adhesive tape and normal. Now pieces of porcelain stoneware polished 8-9 mm some kind of Chinese (500x500) have turned up. The technology is the same - I cut off the bumps with a disc on concrete, then with a solid tape, the substrate is a corner of 40. It also happens before starting a new tape on the tile I sprinkle a little liquid silicone, it glides like clockwork)))

head out 17-03-2013 08:43

Slav, I tried to order 10mm glass pads in a mirror workshop, I tried to order from granite in a crane workshop. And that and that quite arranged, but I work on a stainless plate. Nuances - sometimes you need to grind.

Boroda Kostroma 17-03-2013 09:00

the same trouble ... damn it, for a day of work, sometimes I change 2 tiles (((((they burst from heating and vibration, in my opinion, I tried to do it differently, but .....

planetaplan 17-03-2013 09:01

Porcelain stoneware with 3M double-sided adhesive tape. There is an opinion that when heated, the thermal expansion of porcelain stoneware and the metal on which it is glued is different. Accordingly, the resulting stresses can lead to the destruction of the "weak link". In our case, ceramics. There is no other explanation. After all, what can split ceramics? A blow or a strong bend.

planetaplan 17-03-2013 09:04

It is necessary to separate them with a flexible adhesive connection. Double-sided tape is optimal, holds firmly, easy to change, no need to wait for the glue to dry.

planetaplan 17-03-2013 09:17

Yes, one more moment. When you cut porcelain stoneware from vibration, micro cracks appear in the tile from shock loads, along which further splitting occurs. I came across a tile in a store with a width of 50mm. I only had to cut one side. She's been alive for two months now.

DocBB 17-03-2013 09:37

And now the real question.
Those whose tiles live for a long time use a grinder at 30-35m / s? And then advice like I stuck it on that and it lives hoo good, but they are of little value if you have g6 with a speed of 10m / s ...

With adhesive tape, the idea is interesting, I must try. But porcelain tile crumbles on its own from heating. I tried to warm the piece. it cracks and fragments fly.

Boroda Kostroma 17-03-2013 09:37

I also glue on double-sided tape but ...
5 blades a day can withstand normally, but 10 already ...
bursts in the center of the contact point, then on the workpiece it is clearly visible)))

suhai123 17-03-2013 09:45

quote: Originally posted by vespa32rus:
contact the Tape Manager, he also sold graphite specifically for these purposes, I think he will not advise garbage

It doesn't seem to sell anymore.

planetaplan 17-03-2013 09:50

Then you need to go to the stove-makers and ask them where they sell tiles for fireplaces, this should withstand any heat.

planetaplan 17-03-2013 09:53

Graphite bullshit. I bought, glued. At the point of contact, a hole is very quickly scraped out.

And what do the bourgeois glue on their grinders?

palin 17-03-2013 09:58

Somewhere it was on a non-Russian forum. They supplied air with a compressor. And they did water cooling. There are no links.

ybccfy 17-03-2013 10:08

Pykh presented me with a type of laminate, stainless steel + duralumin, but I didn’t glue it on the bolts in the sweat. Speed ​​18-20. The flight is normal.

suhai123 17-03-2013 10:13

quote: Originally posted by palin:
Somewhere it was on a non-Russian forum. They supplied air with a compressor. And they did water cooling. There are no links.

Water cooling. Make a channel in the tile, lay a PVC tube from a dropper, a pump from indoor fountains. Only in my opinion this will only increase the temperature difference between the face of the tile and the back side.

planetaplan 17-03-2013 10:27


There are cons, but there are more pros.

raven2006yra 17-03-2013 10:31

The radiator from the computer from the inside on the table is a good idea.
To find another specialist in heat engineering, it is clear that the difference in expansion temperatures means that it is necessary to somehow compensate for the expansion of the metal. Maybe there is some kind of "cunning" milling that will not let the metal walk on the table - well, these are thoughts out loud. BUT - you can not glue the ceramic tiles to the table, but put them in a mandrel, and let it warm up - it expands, no one will interfere with it. Just what kind of excuse can you come up with? Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

DocBB 17-03-2013 10:33

suhai123 17-03-2013 10:33


It is necessary to supply water to the tape. Pros;
The tape will live longer, the blade will not overheat, the tape slides easier on wet tiles, does not overheat, dust extraction is not needed, the air in the room is cleaner. Some pluses.
There are cons, but there are more pros.

I also thought about this possibility. Nothing complicated, drip, plug in plastic bottle, attach the tube on the bracket to the upper roller, adjust the flow with the wheel of the dropper itself. Only the window above the rollers is mandatory, otherwise it will not be cooling, but a shower on the snout. Well, how will the grinder react to such irrigation?

suhai123 17-03-2013 10:35

quote: Originally posted by DocVV:
It is interesting how the water supply to the tape is organized. After all, if you just drip from above, it will spray at such a speed.
Secondly, the grinder, for example, can be painted, I have duralumin rollers. But what do the bearings think about it?
How are they protected in such conditions?

I think it’s possible to pack waterproof grease, or to install special protected bearings

raven2006yra 17-03-2013 10:43

quote: Originally posted by DocVV:

But what do the bearings think about it?
How are they protected in such conditions?


Slava, what will the family think? The whole workshop is in splatter. Do protection for the entire machine? Water or coolant is certainly good, but it’s very troublesome to close the machine with something - so much spray will fly from it in all directions.
Yes, and some tapes are moisture resistant but not waterproof.

palin 17-03-2013 12:01

Apply compressed air under the belt. To create an air gap. Will cool plus reduce friction.

Mazak 17-03-2013 12:19

At first I used an AISI304 plate 4mm thick on my own. The tape glides over it remarkably, but under load the plate sags slightly. Made like everyone else; iron corner and glued porcelain stoneware liquid nails. My tape speed is 17m/s, but I don’t even make 5 blades a day))). Ceramics is still alive. But since there is such a problem at high speeds, I think to make a sandwich on the next model: AISI304, D-16. Fasten together with screws along the edges. For better heat dissipation, you can apply paste between them.
I have never seen ceramic plates on industrial grinders. Only iron. No one cleans the tapes at our work, much less washes them. They are simply thrown away as they wear out and that's it. The processed material - a stainless steel.

vlad27k 17-03-2013 14:46

Tiles, like glass, do not like uneven heating, especially sudden cooling. At such speeds, overheating occurs in the thickness of the tile, the glue will practically not help in any way, although copper filings can be mixed into the glue for heat removal. Silicone sealant, for example, is not hard (I glue it) and evens out the difference in the expansion of the metal / tile, but the tile glued to it still sometimes cracks. So IMHO the tiles are thinner, cut the squares into copper filings or a wear-resistant piece of iron and with its periodic editing. To cool the corner, you can stick a pillow made of porous material, and soak it periodically with water gently. And I also periodically wipe the tile with a piece of graphite - I clean it from dirt and the type of lubricant it turns out, it helps a little (for lubrication), but it still needs to be cleaned.

Grinya 17-03-2013 14:53

I once did a topic about linings a long time ago

Alan said that hardened steel taxis.

with glass technological problem
the glass needs to be tempered, the usual one crumbles.
red-hot is made with a size of at least 150x150, 100x200 who has which line.
cut fantasy strained glass is a fantasy.


I sent out a few pieces with bonuses to the hardware, but I did not collect feedback on the use, perhaps one of the users will respond

something like this

Kromeshnik 17-03-2013 14:59

quote: then he talked to a familiar glazier and he made hardened (but not hardened) glass pieces 50x120
I sent out a few pieces with bonuses to the hardware, but I did not collect feedback on the use, perhaps one of the users will respond

I would love to hear feedback.
Grigory, what did the glazier say about the strength of such glass when heated and pressing blanks against it?
Sincerely

konstet 17-03-2013 15:44

And if you fix porcelain stoneware on pottai screws, and heat-conducting paste between the tile and the corner? I made holes in pottai on porcelain stoneware, it turns out.

planetaplan 17-03-2013 16:10

And what is the hardness of kiramogranite? Can 64-65 units be made from hardened metal?

vlad27k 17-03-2013 18:50

glass is softer than porcelain stoneware, 6-6.5 in Mohs, and porcelain stoneware 7-8 and then hardened, and even with scratches from the abrasive that gets in, will shatter. On the occasion, I got a red-hot window, so it explodes from the crap, you will understand why, so that the fragments fly like shrapnel.

Slesarik 17-03-2013 21:41

Tried a lot of things, the conclusions are as follows: best sexual ceramic tile, it can be different - better cheap overheated with a polished plane, poxypol glue is heat-resistant, if there are voids during gluing, there will be cracks, sealant, etc. - it will crack when heated, the length and width of the tile is of great importance, with a width of 50 mm no more than 60-70 mm in length, it seems to work normally, after some time the plane of the tile is taken out, i.e. This is a consumable and should not be steamed. If you work on a cracked tile, the seam on the tape ends quickly. The result was looking for more than one year. By the way, tiles can be cleaned and "lubricated" with graphite.

Mazak 17-03-2013 22:49

It is strange why I have never seen tiles on bourgeois grinders, they all manage with pieces of iron. Guys don't know about such tuning. If mine breaks, I’ll throw out more with tiles, and even more so with glass, I won’t bother. I prefer iron.

elk2 18-03-2013 06:58

I work without any substrates and the platform is not red-hot. It heats up a lot if you have to press, if you do not press, then the hand normally endures after three hours of work. Strong heating occurs on worn tapes

DocBB 18-03-2013 07:44

Well, yes. And through how many holes does the pit roll, through 1 blade? I somehow tried an ordinary tile, even up to kg, so 2 blades and a pit.

elk2 18-03-2013 08:08

Haven't seen the hole yet. As there were traces of milling and remained

DrWinter 18-03-2013 09:33

Alan uses a hardened steel plate, I confirm. You can generally pervert and attach something like a radiator grille to it from the inside, heat dissipation will be good.
Graphite tape helps. But at high speeds and with large volumes of work, it wears out quickly.
My stove began to somehow peel off strangely, as if it were coming off in layers (especially when point pressure is on - for example, when you grind the corners - the pressure is strong, it heats up powerfully, the stove quickly kirdyks). Since then, I have never overclocked the grinder to the maximum, I have found more or less acceptable speeds and work on them.

Knifemaker 18-03-2013 10:32

I have EI336 steel, it contains 1.6% carbon, and 0.3% of it is in the form of graphite. The steel heats up very hard and has a "self-lubricating" effect. (I somehow made blades out of her and sent Gene-Beard - he spat and cursed for a long time during the locksmith!) They say that if a Morse cone is made from this steel, then it will never stay in the nest!

planetaplan 18-03-2013 15:00

Try and make me a strip of 50x190mm. I will be able to flatten myself, how much can I heat it?

Tape manager 18-03-2013 16:31

There is no graphite and there will be no more.
Kmk porcelain stoneware is grits, pieces of ceramics pressed with glue. It should crumble when heated. The expansion of the components is different. I wanted to say that natural stone rules, but Dima HeadOut seems to have described the effect of this on the first page.

Mazak 18-03-2013 19:25

quote: I have EI336 steel, it contains 1.6% carbon, and 0.3% of it is in the form of graphite. The steel heats up very hard and has a "self-lubricating" effect. (I somehow made blades out of her and sent Gene-Beard - he spat and cursed for a long time during the locksmith!) They say that if a Morse cone is made from this steel, then it will never stay in the nest!
Maybe try to make a platform out of it?

This is wear-resistant steel U16.
Wear-resistant also include graphitized steels - carbon or alloyed hypereutectoid steels, in which part C is in a free state. When worn, graphite inclusions split along cleavage planes and form the finest particles that fill the irregularities of friction pairs and prevent dry friction and grasp. Steels of this group are distinguished by high antifriction and antivibration properties, sufficient strength and ductility, and good technological properties.
Chemical composition graphitized steels
Steel grade Chemical composition, %
C Mn Si Other elements
EI293 1.5-1.75 0.2-0.4 0.75-0.95 -
EI336 1.5-1.7 0.15-0.4 0.7-1.0 0.4-0.6Cu
EI366 1.3-1.45 0.4-0.5 1.6-2.25 0.2-0.4Ti
Where would I find it in a leaf, I would cut myself plates.

Knifemaker 18-03-2013 19:41

quote: Where would I find it in a leaf, I would cut myself plates.

Really, where can I find...

I have a 50mm square. Moreover, the grinder, infection, is not cut!

Mazak 18-03-2013 20:04

There are suggestions in the thread. Not in the sheet.
In the old days, they would have been cast from cast iron + HDTV and for the rest of their lives))).

sany_74 18-03-2013 20:39

quote: would be cast from cast iron + HDTV

I just wanted to write - this is IMHO best result will give. I myself glue porcelain stoneware tiles on double-sided adhesive tape, but 5 blades ... and 30 m / s are still too much for me.

sany_74 18-03-2013 20:52

And by the way, comrades, you try to think from the opposite, why is the tile heated ??? maybe you should think not about the tile but about the tape ??? it helps me laundry soap I will say that the friction drops very decently, and, accordingly, the heating. On high speeds did not work, but I have 15-17 m / s on the old grinder.

Max_CM 18-03-2013 23:17

For all that has been said:
Graphite, during friction, its microflakes fly into the air with all the ensuing consequences.

quote: Originally posted by sany_74:
laundry soap helps me, I will say that the friction drops very decently, and, accordingly, the heating. I didn’t work at high speeds, but I have 15-17 m / s on my old grinder.

Old, grandfather's, working way! until it gets hot!
besides the contact of the tape with the drive roller how does it feel?

quote: Originally posted by Ribbon Manager:

Kmk porcelain stoneware is groats, pieces of ceramics pressed with glue. It should crumble when heated.

Clay is not there. ceramics are sintered (knives and brakes of sports cars are also made of ceramics and pistols, where the metal cannot withstand heating, that is, those same dust particles are slightly melted and welded)

Glass - I think this is fraught with consequences.

I'll try to remember the heat and mass transfer.

There are 3 main types of heat transfer: convection, conduction, and radiation.
Conduction is when heat is transferred from body to body through direct contact.
Convection heat is transferred through flowing streams of liquid or gas.
Well, I hope the radiation is understandable .. IR radiation, even through a vacuum, the sun heats the earth.

Circuits are calculated by analogy with electrical circuits, that is, there is a source from which heat flows to the "ground" at 0, through a chain of resistances.

now the case of our substrate. heat from it is removed to the metal corner by conduction, there is a significant transition resistance between the substrate and the corner, respectively, it must be reduced.
Methods: increase the area of ​​direct contact between the substrate and the corner, that is, the back side of the tile should be smooth, preferably polished. glue, adhesive tape is additional resistance, that is, the thickness of the bonding should be minimal! Option to use heat-removing paste KPT-8 the best option, that's just it does not glue. it is necessary to provide mechanical pressing of the substrate to the corner. remains the thinnest layer of glue.

Parts have a heat capacity. and the accumulated heat needs to be put somewhere, taken away or dissipated. big difference I don’t see in the replacement of a steel corner with an aluminum one, but in terms of rigidity, strength and other mechanical parameters, aluminum will definitely lose.

How and where to put the heat from the corner, part of it goes further to the bar, but there the contact area is relatively small, not enough! radiation is also small, convection remains!

The effectiveness of convection depends on the area washed by the air, and the speed of this air. you can increase the area by fixing a radiator on the corner (additional fins) to increase the air speed - by forced airflow.

After all this tediousness, the conclusion The liquid cooling system of the processor is taken from the computer, and attached to the corner at the back.

pblrop 18-03-2013 23:29

I use regular floor tiles. For gluing I use Kleiberit. http://www.kleiberit.ru/ , http://esa.by/_oid451.html . Holds brutally. Heating has no effect. When gluing, it is necessary to compress with clamps, as the glue foams when it dries. I glued abrasive tapes with the same glue. There are no complaints. I recommend.

Yuzon 18-03-2013 23:43

IMHO
a scraped plate made of gray cast iron - and you will be happy
and if it is "covered" with molybdenum disulfite
then friction will almost completely disappear (and on rollers too)

DocBB 18-03-2013 23:56

Yura, will you?

sany_74 19-03-2013 08:28

I also smeared it with disulfide, or rather sprinkled it, graphite also helps. Soap keeps normally, contact on a wheel is not lost. Some comrades use the CV joint (Zhenya hello).

planetaplan 19-03-2013 09:09

If you do, then a small batch. I'm also at a loss.

Kerogen 19-03-2013 10:59

Thank, probably, for such speeds it is better to work on a contact wheel large diameter rather than on a flat table. You will not make flat descents, but slightly concave ones.

Kromeshnik 19-03-2013 11:50

quote: If you do, then a small batch. I'm also at a loss.

If the price is not exorbitant, then I would also participate.

And another question - how will ceramics be for these cases? and where to "tear off" such a record if it makes sense
How is bronze hardened? Does it have a good sliding coefficient?
Are there orthodontists among the comrades? maybe there are some tricky coatings suitable for these tasks?
Sincerely.

Yuzon 19-03-2013 12:32

quote: Originally posted by DocVV:

Yura, will you?


quote: Originally posted by planetaplan:

I'm also at a loss.


Throw off the sizes (better for soap)

and now it remains to find - "thin" gray cast iron with high content carbon (graphite)
talk to the milling machine (well, they don’t like to process cast iron)
and it's in the "hat"

planetaplan 19-03-2013 15:47

I am 50x190mm.

dru029 19-03-2013 18:19

What about natural granite?

visitor 19-03-2013 22:39

Try to put exactly a ceramic plate (pink, sold in jewelry stores for straightening chisels, size 100x100x2mm, price about 500r), it can be heated to red, it will not crumble. It remains only to pick up the glue. Can be fixed with metal plates flush, top and bottom, to prevent displacement, then you can use hot melt adhesive and heat-conducting paste.

planetaplan 20-03-2013 05:12

2mm somehow a little thickness will not break from the pressure?

konstet 20-03-2013 08:30

Another option: work on 2 grinders, like DokVV. While you work on 1, the second cools down.

Max_CM 20-03-2013 09:00

quote: Originally posted by Viziter:
Try to put exactly a ceramic plate (pink, sold in jewelry stores for straightening chisels, size 100x100x2mm, price about 500r), it can be heated to red, it will not crumble. It remains only to pick up the glue. Can be fixed with metal plates flush, top and bottom, to prevent displacement, then you can use hot melt adhesive and heat-conducting paste.

It seems to me the best option!
in his notebook!

The reader MAX 20-03-2013 13:16


this is for the ages!

sany_74 20-03-2013 13:33

quote: There are carbide plates for woodworking machines, size 170x50x3.5mm, material T04F.
this is for the ages!

And her price is million

Burchitai 20-03-2013 16:41

quote: Originally posted by The reader MAX:

There are carbide plates for woodworking machines, size 170x50x3.5mm, material T04F.
this is for the ages!


here, and not forever. While working with corundum ceramics - the plate does not care, when working with silicon carbide - it will wear out, and very much.

The reader MAX 20-03-2013 17:57

Price... only 230 euros apiece.
strong wear there, with all the desire to get difficult.
I work on a forged hardened plate and normally there are no holes or anything else.

Yuzon 20-03-2013 19:06

quote: Price... only 230 euros apiece.

well then, it’s better from osmium iridium

and1111 20-03-2013 20:16

comrades, the question has long been resolved. there is a special 3M graphite substrate, it has one of the advantages: very good. well dampens trizakt, the tape almost does not slow down. without it, on a rigid substrate and at high speeds, it is troublesome to work with a tricycle, it knocks out holes on the wedge with the joints. of the minuses: the lens adds well because of its softness. is an ordinary cotton footcloth, but with a graphite coating. walks for a long time, to holes in the material. the tape manager has been trading with her for a long time, contact me when you are interested. but not cheap. it is good to have a hard shoe with such a backing. I first glue it, then peel it off. like a fool. then did the second, and that's it.

dismal stranger 20-03-2013 21:25

Greetings!
Maybe I missed something, but - there is a hot melt glue (not by name, but by the terms of use). With it, we glue porcelain tiles. In addition, I saw, sorry, there is no link, the thrust plane where it is attached - it was all perforated with about 5mm holes. Heat dissipation is significant.

and1111 21-03-2013 01:58

comrades, I don’t know directly why complicate my life? porcelain tile perfectly keeps on the usual moment. shuruyu boss made of chromium steel, 45-50mm wide. whoever did it knows what kind of dance it is to demolish a plane of such a width. speed 30-35, iron in the mandrel, I press not sickly. Well, it is warm, in the sense of glued porcelain tiles. but not boiling water. if you are interested in looking for hot melt adhesives, then of course, no one is against it, but why? outright masochism.
everything is IMHO.

Kromeshnik 21-03-2013 07:31

quote: sold in stores for jewelers for dressing engravers, size 100x100x2mm, price about 500r


But did anyone hold the link that DrWinter gave in their hands? and the size is just right and the thickness and price, How interesting is their geometry (surface evenness) and what is the smoothness of the surface, you can of course try to bring it out on diamond paste, but will it be possible to polish it?

quote: if you are interested in looking for hot melt adhesives, then of course, no one is against it, but why? outright masochism.

Andrey Vasilyevich, the problem is not in temperature at all, but in the fact that porcelain stoneware is destroyed at the point of overheating, it can be cold nearby, and at the point of pressing the workpiece is destroyed.
So all the same, there are people close to dentures? In the same place, the coatings of dental prostheses seem to be different (it depends on the wallet), can these coatings be applied to iron and obtain the necessary qualities?
Sincerely

Grinya 21-03-2013 08:30

spraying, not to mention surfacing, will cost many times more than tiles made of monolithic materials.

Yes, and I don’t see a global point in spraying.

Kromeshnik 21-03-2013 09:46

quote: Yes, and I don’t see a global point in spraying.

Gregory then according to the classics - "What to do?"

planetaplan 21-03-2013 10:16

We have already decided that we need cast iron.

Kromeshnik 21-03-2013 10:41

If I understand correctly, a collective order will not work there, it’s generally interesting - like the G-10, there are a lot of people, and judging by the reviews, a small number of users face this problem, or we are doing something wrong or a lot of people should cooperate to order cast iron (it turns out this is the best option. I watched YouTube for grinders (imported with high speeds and all sorts of things) nowhere I saw overlays on the pressure table, metal everywhere.
Sincerely

DocBB 21-03-2013 10:59

It's just that on g10 this problem is not there. This problem arises when we try to increase the speed by 2 times, well, press down harder.

planetaplan 21-03-2013 11:03

I think if we get together and make an experimental batch of cast-iron overlays, then over time the grinder manufacturers will catch up. It makes sense to buy with ceramics if everything is torn off in six months, and to someone even earlier. It's strange, there are so many people working with metal here, and only one master responded to try to do it.

visitor 21-03-2013 11:58

quote: Originally posted by planetaplan:

If it has abrasiveness for dressing engravers, the joint of the tape will wear off over time until it breaks and apparently very quickly. And yes, the size is too small.


Its abrasiveness is more than 1000 grit, porcelain stoneware will have more. After salting the abrasive will work without wear.

Burchitai 21-03-2013 12:08

pah through left shoulder. I have been working on the same porcelain stoneware tiles for several years. Blades made about a hundred pieces, no less. No scattering, only wear and tear on porcelain stoneware glued to liquid nails. I edit with a diamond file. I believe that the type of porcelain stoneware and the style of working on the grinder are important.

Burchitai 21-03-2013 12:45

and yet, the speed is usually 20 - 22 meters per second

Vologda resident 21-03-2013 12:50

yes, the main thing here is speed. and above 20ms, the workpiece already starts to burn

Kromeshnik 21-03-2013 14:23

quote: This problem occurs when we try to increase the speed by 2 times

I just can’t do it twice, 60 Hz is set on the frequency converter, and I don’t like to press hard, but still cracks and chips appear along the edges.
quote: I believe that the type of porcelain stoneware and the style of working on the grinder are important.

I tried different porcelain stoneware, I won’t say that the whole range, but several types and only polished, which one starts chipping off earlier, some later. Maybe I'm really doing something wrong in the complex?

After salting the abrasive will work without wear.===
Maybe, but at first it will be scary, I really don’t want to get 36 tape in the face, again, its dimensions do not fit on the table without joints.
Sincerely

and1111 21-03-2013 17:34

Duc is, titanium nitride can be sprayed in some denture, I don’t know, maybe by order. especially for metal, then cast iron is not needed, there will be enough rolled metal. only here is an abrasive ... in Novosibirsk there is a large prosthetic laboratory at the end of Panfilov Street. I was there, the boss is quite an adequate man. maybe I was lucky, but I have not yet encountered this chipping problem. Or maybe you just got lucky with the tiles. I sculpted it in the bathroom, and cleaned up what was left, and made it from it.

DocBB 21-03-2013 17:44

I will say that one person has already become interested in the idea of ​​supplying the Hansa with cast iron tiles, but this takes time to run in, to see how it will be.
So God willing, it will work.

planetaplan 21-03-2013 17:49

That's nice, brainstorming led to the result.

Nick_Ross 21-03-2013 18:30

And I'll add my 5 cents...
The grinder is still under construction, but thoughts wander

In radio electronics, ceramic heat-conducting plates are used for high-power transistors. The thickness of about 2mm. The ceramics on them can be beryllium (it doesn’t suit us, because it’s poison) and aluminum ... And here a spay fine bar pops up before my eyes. Just the right dimensions for the substrate If necessary, you can find the same radioceramics ...
Just don't attach it with glue. Through the heat-conducting paste to the metal corner - it will remove heat. Even for radiators. And press the edges (only there you need to make a step or a bevel)

m8ms 21-03-2013 22:47

Slava, in that office that last time I ordered your tiles to strip, they make countertops, fireplaces, steps and all that natural stone. From granite including. It has much better heat resistance. Porcelain stoneware is the same ordinary ceramic tile, just sintered under pressure, there is no smell of granite there. Their stone thickness is only a minimum, either 8 or 10 mm. But your howling crocodile will go. Yes, and you’ll figure out how to edit, like an old tape, turned inside out. He pressed it with a piece of porcelain stoneware, straightened it, splashing some water, and again on the road.
From scraps for sale, I think they will be happy to do something.
I threw those coordinates, people are absolutely adequate.

The essence of the invention: the graphite substrate is made in the form of a polyhedral prism with deposition surfaces located on its faces. The deposition surfaces are made concave, cylindrical shape so that the height of the prism is generatrix of the cylindrical surface. In this case, the ratio of the deflection of the cylindrical surface to the radius of its curvature is from 0.001 to 0.003. At the same time, due to the exclusion of mechanical processing, costs are reduced by 20 - 30%. 2 ill.

The invention relates to the carbon industry, in particular to the production of products from pyrolytic carbon or pyrolytic graphite. A device for coating products with pyrolytic carbon is known, which allows carbon to be deposited from the gas phase in an electric vacuum furnace with heating elements with continuous supply of hydrocarbon through special device. This device allows the coating of pyrolytic carbon (pyrographite) on any type of substrate, however, the quality and type of the resulting products are determined by the substrate on which the pyrographite is deposited. Closest to the proposed is a device containing a substrate in the form of a polyhedron with flat edges to obtain panels of pyrographite. The main disadvantage of such a substrate is that pyrographite panels (plates) obtained on flat prism substrates have surface curvature. This is due to the action of two factors. On the one hand, the anisotropy of the properties of the hexagonal structure of the graphite crystallite and, on the other hand, the peculiarity of the formation of the structure of graphite layers in the form of solid growth cones. Both factors contribute to the distortion of the shape of the resulting panel: the first is due to structural stresses during cooling of the resulting panel, the second is due to the structural non-uniformity of pyrographite deposition on a flat substrate. To give the resulting panel the desired flat shape of a given thickness, it is subjected to mechanical processing, which leads to the loss of material. Moreover, the deposition time of pyrographite in the furnace was increased by obtaining excess thickness, which is removed later during mechanical processing. All this leads to an increase in the cost of the finished flat panel. The aim of the invention is to reduce the cost of manufacturing flat panels. The goal is achieved due to the fact that in the graphite substrate for obtaining pyrocarbon (pyrographite) plates, made in the form of a polyhedral prism with deposition surfaces located on its faces, the latter are made concave, cylindrical in shape in such a way that the height of the prism is the generatrix of the cylindrical surface, while the ratio of the deflection of the cylindrical surface to the radius of its curvature is from 0.001 to 0.003. When the ratio of the deflection of the cylindrical surface of the substrate to the radius of its curvature tends to be less than 0.001, i.e., with an increase in the radius of curvature, the substrate turns into a flat plate and the effect in obtaining pyrocarbon (pyrographite) will be the same as in the prototype, i.e. That is, on such a substrate, the resulting pyrographite panel will be curvilinear. When the above ratio tends towards greater than 0.003, i.e., with a decrease in the radius of curvature or an increase in the degree of curvature of the substrate, the resulting pyrolytic carbon (pyrographite) panel will have a reverse curvature, which leads to an increase in internal stresses in it and to the need for machining, and therefore , and to an increase in the cost of producing the finished panel. In FIG. 1 shows a diagram of a device for producing pyrolytic carbon (pyrographite) plates; in fig. 2 - substrate in the form of a polyhedral prism, cross section, (R - radius of curvature, - deflection arrow). A device for producing flat panels from pyrocarbon (pyrographite) consists of a reaction chamber in an electric vacuum furnace, which has a base for attaching a polyhedral prism 1 made of graphite and side surfaces 2, on which concave cylindrical surfaces 3 are made for the deposition of pyrocarbon (pyrographite). In this graphite substrate, to obtain pyrocarbon (pyrographite) in the form of a polyhedral prism 1, faces 2 are processed along the outer and internal surfaces in the form of a concave cylindrical surface in such a way that the height of the polyhedral prism is the generatrix of the cylindrical surface. In this case, the ratio of the deflection of the cylindrical surface to the radius of its curvature is from 0.001 to 0.003. The device works as follows. When heating the reaction chamber of an electric vacuum furnace and supplying hydrocarbon gas under the action of high temperature the hydrocarbon mixture is decomposed (pyrolysis) and carbon is deposited on the graphite substrate. The deposition of graphite crystallites occurs predominantly parallel to the initial surface of the substrate. The presence on the surface of the substrate various defects and due to secondary formations, the growth of the panel thickness in time occurs in the form of solid cones. But due to the implementation of the substrate, processed in the form of a cylindrical surface, the resulting panel is flat. In the future, it does not require mechanical processing, since it has already been obtained flat. Upon completion of the process after deposition and opening the furnace, the obtained flat panels on the faces of the prism are cut out, easily separating from the graphite surface. At the same time, costs are reduced by 20-30%.

Claim

GRAPHITE SUBSTRATE FOR OBTAINING PYROCARBON PLATES, made in the form of a polyhedral prism with deposition surfaces located on its faces, characterized in that, in order to reduce the cost of producing flat panels, the deposition surfaces are made concave, cylindrical so that the height of the prism is a generatrix of a cylindrical surface, in this case, the ratio of the deflection of the cylindrical surface to the radius of its curvature is 0.001 - 0.003.