Project from Victor Traveller. The milling table is presented in the first photo, but in this article we will not talk about it, but about its component - the milling lift - it is mounted under the table top
The elevator material is plywood with a piece of chipboard, a hairpin, several nuts of the appropriate size, several self-tapping screws.
A small box is assembled from pieces of plywood. A plywood "cube" is mounted in it with a nut pressed into it and cylinders protruding from it on both sides (a piece of wire).
The collar is made from a piece of laminated chipboard, in the center of which a driving nut and a handle are pressed. 
External view of the support mechanism from below. In it we also see a nut with a washer. 
Now let's move on to the router itself (Interskol FM 32/1900E). It is standardly fixed on the countertop (for example, I did). A kind of rocker is attached to the wall. It is fixed to one wall with a pair of corners. The yoke itself is represented by a pair of parallel bars interconnected by a smooth jumper (a piece of laminated parquet) with recessed self-tapping screws. 
Another view is from the front. Pay attention to the recess between the "legs" of the rocker arm (under the lower nut of the lift box). 
We raise the rocker (together with the head of the router) and start the lift under its legs, laying them on the ledges of the "cube"). In this case, the legs in width correspond to the gap between inner surface box and outer cube. 
That is, when the gate rotates, the cube does not rotate, but rises by rotation, raising the "yoke". 
The advantage of this elevator is that it is carried out beyond the plane of the router itself closer to the user. (another close-up photo) 
I'm thinking of making one myself.
Every master working with wood knows how inconvenient and how many unnecessary actions have to be performed to set the desired height of the cutter, when working on a manual router, or to replace one cutter with another. To do this, you even have to remove the router from the table.
In order to significantly facilitate this task, a special device called a milling lift has long been invented, which is, in fact, the “third hand of the master”, which helps to regulate this process.
There are currently on sale a large number of a variety of models of milling elevators. The best elevators are made in the USA and have a fairly high cost.
Not so long ago, in one of the woodworking magazines, the design of a home-made elevator designed for a manual router was shown. This design will allow you to quite accurately adjust the height of the cutter, and make it yourself for good master won't be too difficult. Moreover, there is detailed photo With detailed description the whole process of making such a model.
First of all, you need to make a disk 18 mm thick, on which the router will be mounted. Now, using a Forstner drill with a diameter of 20 mm, we drill a recess in the center of the disk, a counterboring hole with a depth of 13 mm, then through hole 10 mm in diameter.
We install in the hole that we drilled the M10 threaded stud and fix it with two nuts and washers. Select the length of the stud so that the vertical travel of the router is about 5 cm. Slightly above the middle of the stud, we install a flywheel for adjustment, for fastening we use a nut with a washer and a flange nut. We will attach the flange nut to the stud using epoxy glue.
Finally, install the plywood bottom into the table, positioning it at a height of about 75 mm from the lower ends of the legs, insert the flange nut into it and screw the lower end of the stud into it. Now, when the flywheel rotates, the entire structure will rise or fall relative to the flange nut fixed in the bottom. In the case of using a standard M10 stud with a thread pitch of 1.5 mm, when turning the wheel one turn, the amount of movement of the router will be 1.5 mm, half a turn - 0.75 mm, etc.
Ikea kitchens in the interior: practical and convenient
In the design of the kitchen important role plays design kitchen set. For small rooms, custom-made kitchens are best suited, taking into account all the features and inconveniences of the room layout, but IKEA kitchens in the interior small room will not look.
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Devices for a manual router
Elevator for a milling cutter from a clamp
If you regularly use a router installed in milling table, you know how difficult it is to adjust and adjust the height of the router bit in the router. There are also milling lifts for lifting the router, but they are usually quite expensive. So I created a simple homemade router elevator from available materials. This lift saves a lot of time and I find that all router adjustments are much easier to do effortlessly using the lift installed under the router table.
To make an elevator, I took steel pipe 3/4 diameter? (nipple length will depend on the size of your router) then did you make an angled coupler and a second 3/4 nipple? connected to a flange (the length of the nipple will also depend on the size of your router table), as shown in the drawing below.
Then did wooden base to support the cutter. I drilled a 3/4" hole in the base. This hole is used to smoothly slide the base over the nipple. The clamp is screwed to the base and serves as an adjustment mechanism. I then installed a router lift under the router table (see photo).
To get maximum adjustment, be sure to set the router lift to its lowest position. The curved clamp handle makes it easy to adjust the router and move up and down the steel nipple. This makes it easy to adjust the router to any position you need.
Elevator for a milling cutter from a candle key
The elevator for the router is extremely important and useful device. This is a quick and convenient way to adjust the cutting height of the cutter.
Do-it-yourself milling table elevator: design and assembly
Properly setting the depth of cut will not only create a precise cut, but will also make it easier to fit the joints of the product.
I made an elevator for the router from a regular candle wrench for a car and a suitable nut. The nut must match external dimension candle wrench, and the inner diameter of the nut is the size of the bolt used.
Using nylon or other soft material, drive the nut into the bottom of the wrench. handle on reverse side I made a candle wrench for ease of adjustment. A nylon retaining ring between the nut and the base of the router will help prevent it from spinning freely during operation.
This router lift can be used on various handheld routers such as Hitachi, Festos, Mafells, Dewalt, as well as small Bosch models.
An essential requirement is that you need to consider the location of the bolt on the base of the hand router, its length and easy access during operation.
Note: The easiest way is to use a nylon insert nut inside the wrench.
Compiled. Patlakh V.V.
http://patlah.ru
© "Encyclopedia of Technologies and Methods" Patlakh V.V. 1993-2007
Make a lift for a router with your own hands, or buy a ready-made one? Let's answer this question.
When using a handheld router installed in stationary table, two questions arise:
- How to adjust the depth of immersion (departure) of the cutter.
- How to quickly change replacement tips.
Every time unscrewing the tool from the plate is too troublesome. In addition, a statically fixed router only works at a fixed depth in the workpiece.
This problem is solved by installing a suspension with adjustable height on the router. And as soon as you were able to make a full-fledged milling table, installing an elevator of your own design is not difficult at all. In addition, a self-made device is developed taking into account all the requirements of the master, even those that are not provided for by the factory device.
Why do you need a lift on the milling table, and can you do without it?
This useful device called the third hand of the master. Those who have tried a milling cutter with a microlift find more and more new applications for it:
- Maintenance of the power tool does not cause difficulties, as well as the operational change of milling cutters.
- You can change the height of the milling cutter in a matter of seconds, and most importantly - safely.
- You can change the immersion depth "in dynamics", simultaneously with the movement of the workpiece on the table. This expands the possibilities of creativity.
- Due to the fact that you stop regularly dismantling the tool for maintenance, the plate and its fasteners are subject to less wear.
Buy or make your own?
There is a wide choice of offers in the power tool market. Industrial microlifts look solid, work without failures, but their cost is like that of a new milling cutter. True, the device is quite well equipped. The kit includes rings for copy sleeves, and a very high quality mounting plate.
Industrial microlift for a router with a set of copying rings
It remains to electrify the device - and you can get a CNC machine. There is only one drawback, but it outweighs all the advantages - the price itself. Therefore, for a periodic home use it is an unaffordable luxury. So our kulibins are making, who is into what much. However, they have a lot to learn.
There are quite primitive lever-type designs
Homemade elevator design with lever mechanism
This technique allows you to use even a "foot" drive. For precise settings it is not suitable for departure, however, with the help of such a mechanism, it is possible to raise the router to its working position in one movement, and just as simply lower it to change the nozzle or service. This lift has a fairly large stroke, it does not allow for adjustable milling. Materials for manufacturing are literally lying underfoot, the cost price tends to zero.
Using the screw adjuster
Another example of a homemade elevator for a router
The design is more advanced, and allows for relatively precise reach adjustment. However, it is inconvenient to use such a microlift; to rotate the handle, it is necessary to climb under the table, and then make a control measurement of the height of the cutter. But reliability is on top, and expensive materials are not required for manufacturing. Such an elevator can be made "by eye", without using drawings.
The following flywheel design not only makes it possible to fine-tune the reach in small steps within 50 mm, but is also quite convenient.
Flywheel lifting structure
It will take more time to make, but the result is worth it. The handwheel allows you to adjust the height of the cutter, while visually controlling it over working surface. In principle, it is already possible to dynamically change the overhang of the cutter.
The main advantage is still the low cost of components for manufacturing, with increased functionality. Instead of a flywheel, you can install a gear and a motor with a gearbox. But this will require additional costs.
Car jack option
Quite expensive, since at least you need to purchase a jack.
ELEVATOR FOR MILLING MACHINE. ANYONE. WITH EXPLOSION DIAGRAM using the example of festool 1400 (ROUTER LIFT)
Rhomboid designs are ideal.
Application screw jack as an elevator for a milling machine is also possible
Such a lift for a microlift is reliable, and thanks to the handle located parallel to the tabletop, it is convenient and quite accurate.
Positioning the mount is very easy. It is enough to install a solid shelf parallel to the countertop.
Electric variant available.
Then, in general, you can install a foot pedal, and free both hands. And if you attach a programmer to all this - here you are homemade router with CNC.
However, this comes out of the concept of an economy class device.
Option from an advanced master
Since the possibilities of a craftsman are endless, you can meet completely unexpected designs. This microlift is made using the same router for which it is intended.
The original design of the elevator made by hand
The design involves not only fine adjustment of the reach, but also a change in the angle of inclination of the axis of the router. With this potential, it is possible to greatly expand the woodworking tasks performed.
Originally solved drive worm mechanism studs - height adjuster.
Toothed wheels (gear wheels) are made according to the spike method " dovetail". This allows the gears to be moved outside the mechanism, eliminates the need for lubrication, and makes the adjustment soft.
The material used is moisture resistant plywood 20-25 mm thick. The microlift is executed so qualitatively - that I would like to suggest the author to organize industrial production.
Of course, a preliminary drawing is necessary for such a design.
Assembly drawing in 3D for a microlift
Moreover, it was made using a three-dimensional modeling program. Making such a device is hard work. And here financial side question - the cost of a sheet of plywood and a screw stud. When performing custom work, such a design will quickly pay off.
The verdict on this topic is as follows - when using a home-made milling table, you cannot do without a microlift. Other designs such as a quick-release plate for a router or flip cover table, suitable only for servicing power tools. And for precise positioning of the cutter above the table, you need a microlift.
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To everyone who has manual frezer, sooner or later the idea comes to mind to make a table for him to turn him into a full-fledged stationary machine, with which you can implement all the functions embedded in it. The same thought once came to me too. I will not dwell on the moments of making the table, there is plenty of information on this topic on the net for every taste and budget. I want to bring to your attention my own version of the elevator for raising and lowering the router relative to the table surface. The design is as budget-friendly as possible, you don’t need to buy anything, everything you need for manufacturing is in every home workshop.
So what do we need:
- wooden rail capable of supporting the weight of the router
- bolt with a diameter of 10-12 mm
Metal bar with a diameter of 5-7mm and a length of 100-120mm
-whatever the hinge (door hinge) according to the size of the rail
-old hand drill
From the tools you will need a tap, a die, a grinder, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws, drills, etc.
Let's make a nut first. We cut off from the bolt that part on which there is no thread, we will make the length according to the width of the rail. In the middle of this workpiece on the side surface, we drill a hole slightly smaller in diameter than the size of the bar (taking into account further cutting of threads on the bar and in the hole).
On the bar we cut the thread along the entire length, we make the corresponding thread in the body of the workpiece cut off from the bolt. As a result, we got a home-made guide screw pair.
After that, we drill a hole in the rail for our home-made nut (the nut should move freely in the hole, but not hang out in it). We drill another hole perpendicular to this hole, according to the diameter of the bar (a little more is possible). At the other end of the rail we fix a suitable loop (hinge).
Now we insert our nut into the rail, screw a threaded rod into it, clamp the rod into the drill chuck, fix the drill at the bottom of the table front side. We fix the other end of the rail with a hinge on the opposite side. As a result of all manipulations, a structure should be obtained that moves the milling cutter vertically when the drill handle is rotated. I don’t indicate any sizes, because all this is fastened as they say "in place, how to ask"
As an illustration, I give photos of how it was done with me. Dimensions can be any, I want to believe - the design principle is clear.
Thank you for your attention.
Milling lift, which Victor Travelller uses in his, as I understand it, extreme table. So to speak, the latest model. Fraser uses the same long-suffering interskol FM32.
The most interesting aspect of this lift is the ability to adjust the position of the router without bending over or getting under the table. This is done with an imbus key directly from the countertop.
The entire block, together with the milling cutter, can be easily dismantled and replaced with a circular saw. Let's take a closer look at the device of this lift. 
The lift itself consists of two U-shaped halves that move relative to each other. One is fixed relative to the base of the router, the other is movable (it pushes the head of the router up) 
They are connected to each other (that is, with a hexagon head bolt with a stud of the appropriate diameter) using a pair of nuts (main and locking). At the same time, the hexagon bolt remains on top, flush with the table surface. Through a wide nut, rotation is transmitted to the stud, with which, respectively on the mortise nut in the lower half of the slide, which, due to rotation, are pulled up. 
