Homemade milling table. Milling tables for manual router. Milling table: design, diagrams, do-it-yourself manufacturing technology Making a tabletop for a milling table

Milling table for a manual milling cutter with your own hands

One of the main assistants of the carpentry master is a woodworking mill. This hand tool is indispensable when you need to:

• cut a groove;
• make a groove
• make a spike connection;
• finish edges, etc.

However, when performing some carpentry work, it is not always convenient to use this tool due to the fact that it is required to simultaneously hold the workpiece and operate the milling cutter. Therefore, many craftsmen go to the trick, making a milling table for a manual router. With the help of the table, which is a reliable addition to milling tool, you can get as a result wooden elements in terms of quality and precision they are in no way inferior to joinery made in professional furniture workshops on milling machines.

A homemade table for a manual router significantly increases the productivity of the tool and facilitates the work of processing wooden products. It is not difficult to manufacture such equipment, moreover, unlike a standard milling table produced by various manufacturers, this table will have the dimensions, design and options chosen directly by its manufacturing master.

To perform any engineering work, and the manufacture of equipment is one of these, it is necessary to draw up a sketch of the future machine. On it you need to designate your vision of the project with an indication of the actual dimensions. Based on the sketch, you can easily select materials for the manufacture of the future structure, their quantity, determine the construction budget and stock up on the tools necessary for processing machine parts.

Option 1. Instructions for making a table for a manual router

Materials for the manufacture of the milling table

To build a milling table you will need:

• 4 bars of square section;
• chipboard and plywood trimmings, the dimensions of which are determined when constructing a table drawing;
• hardware (nuts, bolts, self-tapping screws, hinges, etc.);
• jack;
• metallic profile;
• six mm steel plate;
• aluminum guides;
• movable carriage-stop (guide from the saw);
• manual frezer.

Drawing homemade milling table (option 1)

In any case, before starting to make any such table, the drawing must be completed with the designation of all sizes and the location of the work items relative to each other.

Step by step assembly

Let us consider in detail each step in the manufacture and fastening of each element of a homemade milling table.

1st step. For the manufacture of a stationary base for the table, you will need bars and chipboard trimmings, from which we twist the legs, additionally strengthen the rigidity with the help of horizontal plywood connecting panels. In the right side part, we cut a hole for the start button, which will be connected to a manual router.

2nd step. The table top is made of chipboard. We make it lifting together with a router, for which we install hinges and make an additional support base from 15 mm plywood.

3rd step. To smoothly move the workpiece along the table, for example, to cut a groove in it, a moving stop carriage is used. We cut a groove in the tabletop for the guides of the movable stop and install a metal profile into it. As a stop carriage, you can use a guide from an old saw.

4th step. The longitudinal stop is also made of chipboard and made movable to adjust the gaps around the cutter. To ensure mobility, we cut out perpendicular grooves in the upper part of the stop and fasten the stop to the tabletop with clamps. In the middle we cut a small groove for sucking out chips and other milling waste.

5th step. From thin plywood we make a box with a hole for connecting a vacuum cleaner hose, which will remove dust and chips formed during the milling process. We fix the box behind the perpendicular stop.

6th step. We take a six-millimeter steel plate and fasten it to the countertop flush with the surface. In the process of fastening, we make sure that its edges do not protrude above the countertop, otherwise the workpieces will cling to them. A manual milling cutter will be attached to the plate from below.

7th step. We attach the milling cutter by the aluminum sole to the bottom of the plate with bolts, but do not forget to pre-drill holes for the bolts in the sole. Fastening hand tool to the indexable insert rather than directly to the table, saves milling depth and allows for easy cutter replacement.

8th step. We are building a milling elevator. To do this, we use a car jack, which allows you to change the height of the cutter with maximum accuracy.

9th step. We remove the handles from the router and instead of them we fasten the aluminum guides, which we connect to the jack mechanism.

Design and homemade milling table for a manual router

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a milling table, it is necessary to accurately determine its design features. This article provides instructions on how to make a simple router table. For other first build options, see the details below.

We check the reliability of fastening of all elements - and the milling table is ready with our own hands!

We offer several more models of hand-made wood milling machines for your taste.

Option 2. Another milling table and other assembly features

We offer a table design for a milling cutter with a detailed analysis of its nodes.

Materials and tools.

In order to make a table for a manual milling cutter with your own hands, you will need materials:

• metal corner or pipe (for the frame);
• aluminum guide;
• axes for fastening the milling cutter;
• putty, primer and paint for metal;
• self-tapping screws; furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm;
• adjusting hexagon bolts with nuts - 4 pcs. ;
• Finnish moisture-resistant laminated plywood, 18 mm thick (other material can be taken);
• boards or scraps of plywood (for the manufacture of a parallel stop).

The following tools are also required:

• welding machine(for the metal frame of the table);
• drill and drills;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• milling cutter;
• spatula, brushes, rags.

Basic drawings

Design features of the milling table

Under the milling machine, you can adapt the existing workbench. But it is more expedient, in order to exclude the influence of strong vibration during the operation of the cutter, to make a separate structure to ensure the stability of the table.

The main loads during the operation of the equipment are transferred to the base. Therefore, the frame must be reliable and stable. Under the bed is understood the fixed base on which the milling cutter is located. It perceives all loads and is a design in the form of a table with a fixed lid. It can be made from a metal pipe, corner, channel, wood, chipboard.

It must be taken into account that the router itself is fastened to the tabletop from below, which means that it is required to provide empty space there.

The router is attached to the table through a high-strength and rigid plate to perform installation work. It is preferable to make it from metal, textolite or grooved boards.

On the sole of the router, threaded mounting holes are provided for mounting. In the absence of threaded holes, cutting is performed independently. If the task is not possible, secure the milling device with special clamps.

Start the work by making a sample according to the shape and thickness of the mounting plate with a router. To simplify on the mounting plate, right angles must be rounded off with a file. A recess in the table top ensures that the plate is flush with the tabletop.

Make a hole in the center of the plate for the tool to exit, drill holes for mounting the plate on the table. The next step is to drill holes for attaching the milling device, keep in mind that the fasteners must be sweaty.

How to make a work surface and base

The manufacture of the base of the future milling table begins with the frame. For the convenience of performing work, the table cover should protrude in the front part by 100-200 mm. Special attention when designing the frame of the bed, pay attention to the installation height of the working surface. This size is decisive for the convenience of working at the machine. According to ergonomic requirements, it should be 850-900 mm, depending on the height of the person. For convenient operation of the future milling machine, you can install height adjusters at the bottom of the support. This will allow, if necessary, to change the size of the height of the table;

As a working surface for the future machine, a Soviet-era kitchen worktop is useful. Most often it is made of 36 mm chipboard sheet covered with plastic. The wood chip material will reduce the vibrations that occur during the milling process, and the plastic coating will provide excellent movement on the surface of the workpiece. In the absence of an old countertop, use MDF or chipboard, with a thickness of at least 16 mm.

Choose a place for the future milling machine in your workshop, the dimensions and type of the future design depend on this. It can be an aggregate machine located on the side of a circular saw, desktop version, or maybe a stand-alone stationary machine.

If the use of a milling machine is not regular, it can be reduced to one-time work from time to time, it is enough to make a small compact table.

Make your own milling machine. It is a design that fits on a standard table. For work, you need a chipboard plate, two boards. On a sheet of chipboard, fasten two boards in parallel. Attach one of them to the tabletop with bolts, it will serve as a guide and as an emphasis. Use the second as a limit stop. Cut a hole in the table top to accommodate the router. Attach the router to the table top with clamps. The milling machine in a compact design is ready.

If your workshop has a lot of free space, then make a full-fledged stationary milling machine. It will be more convenient to work on it than on the desktop version

Option 3. Cheap homemade table for the router

The sketch is ready. Materials purchased. The tool, laid out in its place in the workshop, is waiting for the moment to serve its owner. The master is also serious and is not going to grab everything at once. He will put everything on the shelves and do everything in stages.

Start by making the frame of the future machine. You can apply the following method of manufacturing the bed. Cut the profile pipe 25 × 25 with the help of a “grinder”, then weld the blanks intended for the frame on which the work surface will be located. Weld a pipe on one side, along which the parallel stop will subsequently move. Weld 4 supports to the frame.

To fix the table top, frame the perimeter of the frame with a corner, then it will sit in a recess.

Use the second method of making the frame. It implies additional supports for the work surface. In the middle of the table, weld the stops for the milling equipment. The size between them should correspond to the convenient fastening of the router.

For structural stability, connect the lower supports with jumpers at a height of 200 mm from the floor.

Color the resulting design. Why prepare surfaces: clean metal pipes and degrease with a solvent, then primer. If there is a need to putty surfaces, perform a special putty mixture and apply primer. After complete drying, paint with PF-115 enamel.

Cut the work surface according to the inner size of the frame, set it tightly into the corners. Then drill holes in the top frame for mounting the table top. Mark the tabletop itself, drill it and securely connect it to the bed using furniture bolts. Table dimensions 850×600×900.

Step back from the edge 200-250 mm and cut the T-rail along the length of the work surface.

Cut off half of the milling axes. This will make it possible to almost double the distance from the sole to the guide axle, which in turn will expand the range of the tool's capabilities.

Remove the sole from the milling equipment, in the middle of the working surface of the table, mark the holes for its fastening and drill them. In the middle of the table top, drill a hole for the appliance. On both sides of it, drill holes for attaching the clamps of the axes of the router.

On the underside of the worktop, make a selection for the soleplate of the router.

On both sides of the drilled through hole in the sample, make grooves for installing the axes of the router. The size of the groove and the axis must match.

Along the edges of the grooves with a Faustner drill (picture above), drill holes for the adjusting bolts for the hex.

Cut two pieces of pipe to fit the width of the large groove and drill holes in the center for the fixed bolts. They will serve as clamps for the axes of the milling tool. Screw nuts onto the bolts.

On both sides of the axles, install hex bolts and nuts to adjust the plane of the milling equipment.

Now make the parallel stop. Take a small piece of plywood and cut a groove in it so that it can move along the pipe welded in advance for this. Using a jigsaw, cut three strips of identical size, where its length is equal to the sum of the length of the table and the width of the guide tube, and four plates for them in the form of stiffeners.

On strip number 1, make a floor round hole to remove woodworking waste. It should match the slot in the work surface of the table. In strip #2, cut a square hole in the same place.

Cut the strip number 3 from plywood into equal parts. Attach one to the back of the square hole strip with bolts or rails. Plywood halves should move in opposite directions. Install an aluminum guide along the top edge of this strip.

Fasten plates No. 1 and No. 2 together with the sides with half holes. Fix two stiffeners along the edge of the hole formed and two on the sides at a distance of 70-100 mm from the edge.

Cut a square of plywood to the size of the distance between the ribs, cut a hole in it according to the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose. Attach the square to the stiffeners.

Secure the parallel stop with clamps. This is done for the mobility of the rearrangement of the emphasis. If it is intended only for a milling machine, then fix it with brackets with grooves for movement.

Weld a bolt to a 6 mm thick metal strip. Clamps are made of wood with two grooves for bolts in the amount of two pieces.

Install the milling equipment: thread the cut axles into the side holes of the device, put nuts on them and fix the device with pipe clamps.

Turn the table over and use the hexagon to raise the router.

For the convenience of raising the router, it is advisable to install a lift based on a jack.

Option 4. Milling machine based on a desk

A desk-based milling machine is considered economical and convenient option solutions. The list of photo drawings contains a table with a specification of parts by size and recommended material.

Part sizes and materials

How to make a mounting plate

Due to the thickness of the table top, in order to maximize the output of the cutting tool, it is necessary to take a smaller thickness of the mounting plate. From this it follows that with a slight thickness, it should have sufficient strength.

The plate can be metal or textolite. It is these materials that most meet the requirements of strength and rigidity. Optimal Thickness plates should be 6 mm. It is made of a rectangular shape, in the middle of the part a hole is drilled in diameter corresponding to the hole on the sole of the router. To increase the range of use of the tool, rings of different diameters are used. Holes are made in the plate for connection with the router and fastening it to the table top.

The holes in the plate should match the holes on the bottom of the router in terms of location and size. To accurately mark the plate, you need to draw a sketch with dimensions or fix it on the table with clamps.

The nuances of assembling a milling table with your own hands

When assembling the milling device at the ends of the width of the table top, fix a metal ruler, this will make it possible to set the parallel stop correctly in size and strictly parallel.

On the reverse side of the table cover, make selections for the subsequent installation of the dust collector housing, additional equipment. The given drawings and photos will help you to make all the components correctly.

For the convenience of switching on and safe emergency shutdown of a do-it-yourself milling machine, install the start button and the stop button in the form of a fungus on the countertop.

Option 5. Small desktop router table

A small desktop milling table and a detailed analysis of its manufacture are shown in the photo.

How to make a top clamp

For processing parts large sizes and creating safe working conditions on the machine, the so-called top clamp. Its manufacture is based on the use of a roller. Before the device of this device, develop its drawing.

The roller can be a ball bearing. Its installation is carried out on a special device, which makes it possible to fix the workpiece at any distance from the working surface.

Milling machine drive power

As a milling machine drive, it is most advisable to use an electric motor with a power of 1.1-2 kW and a speed of 3000 per minute. When using a low-power electric motor, it will not be possible to use any cutter, the machine will not have enough power. If the number of revolutions is too low, a poor-quality cut will be obtained.

You have seen several options for resolving the issue; how to get a milling table. Which one you like is your choice. We will be glad if we could help you

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In a private household economy, a milling machine is always useful. The equipment is indispensable in the manufacture of various wooden products - from window frames to various small crafts. The milling machine is a support table and the router itself. If the owner already has a manual milling cutter, then you can make a milling table with your own hands.

The table is the main base of the machine. Cutters are its working bodies. With the help of these parts, when processing wood blanks, many operations are performed. On the machine, longitudinal grooves, channels, vertical recesses, oval bevels and much more are made in wood. The table is necessary for precise positioning of the cutter - both horizontally and vertically.

Milling table design

The working table of the machine must meet the following requirements:

• The standard height of the working surface ranges from 800 to 900 mm. The height of the table can be different - at the request of the owner of the workshop.
• The surface of the table must provide unimpeded sliding of the wooden workpiece.
• The milling cutter must be equipped with an elevator that will easily move the cutter vertically.
• IN working area you need to install a chip and dust extraction.
• The mounting plate must securely fasten the router. The thickness of the plate should allow the maximum extension of the cutting body.
• Clamping parts must be such that the hands of the worker cannot accidentally fall under the cutter.
• The machine bed must be stable, and at the same time allow you to easily move the machine to the right place.

Manufacturing of the bed and countertop

In the conditions of a home workshop, inexpensive auxiliary materials are often used to manufacture the supporting part of the machine. To do this, take pieces of MDF, construction plywood, a metal corner, hardware (bolts, screws, washers and nuts), and so on.

bed

The support structure for the machine is made of wooden beam or welded metal profile. Some craftsmen fit an old table or workbench under the frame. The most important thing in the device of the bed is stability. During the operation of the milling cutter, various vibrational loads may occur.

If old furniture loosened, then it is worth installing additional fasteners. To do this, use a metal corner, which is fixed in dubious nodes of the structure through drilled holes screws.

The most reliable design will be a frame made of a steel corner 40 × 40 mm. This requires a welding machine and experience in handling it.

table top

The organization of the desktop can be "peeped" in the videos about the work of milling machines published on the Internet. In the manufacture of the tabletop, it is necessary to follow the requirements that ensure easy movement of the wooden workpiece and the cutting tool of the cutter, as well as reliable fixation of the workpiece relative to the cutter.

Do-it-yourself machine assembly option

On both side ends of the table, an aluminum profile of a T-shaped section is installed for fastening and free movement of a parallel stop in the form of a bar. The plank on the sides is equipped with aluminum fasteners that fit into the grooves of the side profiles.

A rectangular cutout is made in the bar for the exit of the cutter. A guide profile is fixed on the part, along which the vertical and angular clamps move. Clamps fix the passage of a wooden workpiece through the milling zone.

A parallel groove is cut in the tabletop - to move the corner stop slider. On one of the supports under the tabletop, switches with an emergency stop button for the router are installed.

The work platform is often made from MDF and construction plywood. The surface of this material wears out quickly. More reliable table top- made of textolite. Textolite surface has high wear resistance and low coefficient of friction.

The ideal option for a countertop can be a steel sheet or a plane of aluminum alloy. Since the platform must have technological grooves and holes, making such a part with your own hands will be quite difficult, and sometimes impossible. The way out can be found in the use of old equipment parts.

Plate for router

An opening is cut in the center of the tabletop to install the work plate. It is better to make a plate from the same textolite. A round hole is made in the plate. Round inserts are made under the hole. Combining the inserts, select the through hole in diameter for the desired cutter.

Ring inserts, like the plate itself, must be flush with the entire surface of the desktop. Rings provide a tight entry of the cutter into the working area.

Frazier

The power plant in its functionality acts like an ordinary drill. The milling chuck clamps the axis of the cutter and imparts rotational movement to it. The unit is attached from below to the working plate. When designing a table, it is imperative to take into account the saving of space for placing the device under the tabletop.

A compact electric motor is used as a milling cutter. Make a homemade power tool under the force experienced master. In some cases, they use electric drill. To get rid of such a problem, they purchase a ready-made manual milling cutter. In the distribution network, customers are offered a wide range of hand-held power tools of this type.

A hand router from different manufacturers has approximately the same set of options and dimensions. The tool is mainly intended for processing wooden blanks.

The milling machine allows the worker to control the processing process with two hands, and when working with a hand tool, the hands are busy holding the unit itself. It is advantageous to place a manual milling cutter in a home-made machine design.

Mounting plate

The polymer sole of the milling cutter is removed and a mounting plate is cut out along its contour. The mounting plate is made from sheet metal, not more than 6 mm thick. Mounting holes are drilled in the working platform along the screws securing the router through the mounting plate.

Holes are made from the side of the working surface with sweat so that the screw heads do not protrude above the plane of the table.

Elevator

An elevator is a device for moving something vertically. In this case, it concerns the milling unit. The hand mill is equipped with a lift. The problem of installing an elevator becomes relevant when using home-made devices as a power plant.

You can purchase a ready-made factory-made elevator. Many options for making homemade lifting devices are published on the Internet. The main task of the lift is to solve the exact fixation of the cutter vertically. The protrusion of the conical cutting surface of the cutter determines the depth and width of the wood sample in the workpiece.

One of the most popular options for a homemade elevator is to move the router on a vertical threaded metal rod.

Scheme of a homemade milling elevator

A shelf is installed under the table, into which a rod with a flange nut is inserted. A flywheel is installed above the rod. By rotating it, they achieve the desired height of the cutter above the surface of the desktop.

Rotary milling table

The rotary model of the machine is complex structure, providing an inclination of the wooden workpiece in relation to the cutter. Thanks to this feature of the machine, wooden blanks of complex shape are made. At home, such tables are almost impossible to assemble.

Safety when working on a homemade machine

For safe work milling machine, several safety rules must be observed:

1. The metal frame must be necessarily grounded.
2. The machine is installed in a dry ventilated room.
3. If the machine is made entirely of wood, then the router body itself is grounded.

Conclusion

A do-it-yourself milling table will save cash workshop owner. A home-made design takes into account all the individual needs of the owner of the machine, which compares favorably with ready-made options.

Professional processing and manufacturing wooden parts only possible with a milling machine. You can fully use this tool in a special installation. This is the milling table. This installation is rare, and those options that are on sale are quite expensive. It makes no sense to spend a lot of money on the purchase of this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in the table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since the milling cutter does not move along the surface being machined, but the part moves relative to it. The milling cutter, fixed in the table, gives more wide opportunities detail processing. As a result, the blanks of products are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on the appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work.

compact homemade construction replace industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

1. Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and unmovable.
2. Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively low weight. This table is easy to move.
3. Aggregate - the design provides for the expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Construction scheme

For self-manufacturing countertops usually use MDF boards pasted over with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, light in weight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to handle and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. Also, the metal is prone to corrosion, so it must be painted.

Milling table tops must be smooth. Often they are made of plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is immune to moisture. Phenolic plastics lend themselves well to processing. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for the longitudinal stop fasteners. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

In branded worktops made of steel or aluminum, holes are already provided for a specific router model. If the manufactured models of countertops are made of MDF boards or plastic, then firms prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the sole of the plate through which the router is fastened with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminium. The plate for the router must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the insert protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table top is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices to level the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the size of the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the work surface of the milling table.

Create convenience in selecting the diameter of the cutter

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often needed to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the table surface and easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made both solid and in the form of several overlays. To accumulate chips and debris, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The hose of the vacuum cleaner is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop in the form of several fixed overlays

The milling table can be upgraded with a bed into which the grinder will be fixed. You can read more about the independent manufacture of this design.

Necessary tools and materials

1. Joiner's glue.
2. Bolts with nuts.
3. Screws.
4. MDF board and birch plywood
5. Electric jigsaw.
6. Spanners.
7. Sandpaper.
8. Ruler.
9. Pencil

Drawings and calculation

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two cabinets. The easiest way to create a table top, base and parts for a milling table is to use MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table, we used:

1. 1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
2. 1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
3. 1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
4. Aluminum rails - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table schemes

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the top of the table will consist of wooden parts that are sawn from a single 19mm MDF board. Birch plywood can be used as a replacement for this material.

• Sawing sheet material into fragments according to the specified sizes.

1 - working surface; 2 - emphasis base; 3 - its wall of the stop; 4 - scarf (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsarga (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting bar (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not match the specified parameters or be defective.

• It is necessary to remove the plastic lining from the sole of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking the cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic overlay will serve as a template when marking

• On the largest sawn part No. 1, 90x70 cm in size, make markings for the cutter. To do this, draw a line in the middle at a distance of 235 mm from the edge, putting a mark. Then place the overlay so that the router adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be fixed with screws.

Mounting holes must match the trim

• Measure the diameter of the lining and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determination of its diameter

• From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicular to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

• Using the holes in the sole of the lining, mark the future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

• In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

• Fasten four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the table top with screws.

Use carpentry or epoxy as glue.

• Glue the rest of the blanks and secure them with screws. Install a router on the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on the goats; 2 - tsarga; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - stop base

• Now we need to make support structure table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - external side stand; 2 - internal rack; 3 - rear rack; 4 - base

• Cut plywood into pieces according to size.
• Assemble the table structure, fixing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient to use for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - the bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear pillar

• Then you need to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. For the manufacture of the plate, duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is required. Cut out a square from the specified material, the sides of which are equal to 300 mm. Glue the sole of the router on it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will be used as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the lining. After that, remove the overlay and make recesses for the caps in the plate with a large drill.

Allows the cutter to handle the details as much as possible

• As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the tabletop, the edges of which should be processed sandpaper.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

• At the place where the cutter is attached, drill holes and widen them with reverse side countertops with a 11 mm drill. Lay the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the worktop, aligning them for bolting. Attach the part to the sole of the router. Insert the tool into the worktop and fasten it with screws.

The holes of the worktop and the plate must match

• For the convenience of working on the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help further process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to cut guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the plate.

Swivel and side stop make the process convenient

• Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop for fastening clamps, linings and protective devices.
• To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a piece of 140x178 mm in size from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching the adapter for the vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

• For a stop, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience.

• For milling small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, cut out the details from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a clamp-comb, it is better to use maple wood. To cut the part, you need to choose a section with a straight direction of the wood fibers. Ridge slots are best done circular saw on the machine.

Allows you to fix details when processing small fragments

• Fix the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in places where milling work will be carried out. Clean all wooden elements from dust and coat with oil.

Safety

When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying off from it are possible. Before starting the router, you need to remove all tools from the surface of the countertop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. It is also possible to equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent the scattering of particles.

While working at the table, it is unacceptable to clean and lubricate parts, remove the protective screen and measure workpieces. Protective goggles must be worn to prevent the flying particles from getting into the eyes. This is especially true for high-speed milling or processing of bronze elements, cast iron or silumin.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During the rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to place hands close to the rotation zone of the tool. Before installing the drills, you need to make sure that they are reliable and durable, as well as the integrity and correctness of sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips and cracks. If such defects are found, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a do-it-yourself milling table

Thanks to relatively inexpensive materials and your skill, you can build a compact design of the milling table. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

In this article I will show you how to make a router table with your own hands. But first, a bit of history… The appearance of manual milling machines in 1974 allowed small workshops to carry out a number of furniture manufacturing jobs on a completely different level. At the same time, it became necessary to create a table for a manual router. Here you can make long grooves of various configurations. In the presence of special cutters, the desired type of machined surface of the part is formed from wood or other soft materials.

Milling tables have been used in workshops producing wood products for more than 150 years. These machines take up a lot of space, creating the necessary space around them to perform work with long workpieces. In private workshops, it is easier to use a homemade milling table, which uses a small-sized lightweight machine with a built-in electric drive. Make for yourself similar device maybe in a couple of days. It is important to determine your needs, depending on the tasks for the next period.

Small milling table (drawings, accessories)

Quite often, a small-sized underframe is installed on the support, in which a manual milling cutter is placed. If necessary, it can be removed and put aside, freeing up space inside the workshop.

Small table for manual router

Such a fixture is made of solid hardwood (maple) and birch plywood. Drawings of assemblies and individual parts are shown below.

	The sidewalls will be mounted according to the attached diagram. Here is what the table looks like.
	Top view of the table. Shown here are the main dimensions. The table top is made of two layers.
	Manufacturing sequence. Marking up before starting to cut out the window. The work is carried out in the lower layer.
	The sequence of manufacturing the top layer.
	Both layers stick together. Installation of guide rails. They are needed in order to cut the window with a milling cutter.
	Milling relative to guide rails.
	The design of the parallel stop placed on the table.
	End cap. They are installed at the ends of the stop.
	In the middle part, for additional reinforcement, two additional scarves are installed. A couple for suction of dust is mounted. A hose from a vacuum cleaner will be connected to it.
	Shield holder. The shield itself is made of plexiglass.

To make such a device, parts are needed. Their dimensions, quantity and materials are shown in Table 1.

Table 1: Accessories for making a table for a router

How to make a milling table with your own hands?

Many craftsmen adapt an ordinary workbench as a table for a milling cutter. However, in practice it has been proven that it is better to have a separate specialized design. Explained simply:

• vibration will occur during operation, which can lead to an unstable position of parts on the workbench;
• moving up and down will require a special tool (elevator). In an ordinary workbench, there is often no free space.

An important feature of the router is the need to install a base plate associated with the table top. For her, I use metal, plexiglass or durable plywood. Fixation is carried out using holes. Most hand tool manufacturers provide fasteners for their products in advance, assuming that a significant part of their products will be used in a stationary version.

When working, various cutters are used

Milling methods using different types of shaped cutters

Based on the study of known designs, a number of basic requirements for the milling table are formulated.

1. The base plate must be in the same plane as the table. When moving workpieces, it is not allowed vertical offset on a support. Some masters leave the base sole. They bring it to "zero" with a countertop. But most agree that another plate needs to be made.
2. For convenience and safe use of the machine, the on and off buttons should be located so that they can be quickly used. There may be a situation where you need to urgently turn off the power to the engine.
3. The movement of workpieces is carried out relative to the stop. It can be moved so that the master has the possibility of milling edges, as well as grooves in semi-finished products.
4. It is useful to consider the installation location of the machine. It needs a comfortable ride. It may be necessary to mill the length. Then the blanks should be stacked on both sides of the table.
5. Some craftsmen adapt the installation of only the tabletop to an existing machine. So it is possible to combine several devices on one frame.

Even regular table can be converted into a machine. An example of such a transformation is shown in the video.

To get the most out of the machine, you need to minimize the thickness of the base plate. Then the overhang of the cutter will be maximum. In practice, long finger cutters for deep milling can be used. Strength will be provided only by fairly rigid materials.

Mounting the device for vertical movement

The movement of the hand mill up and down is done using a device called an elevator. Here, a variety of mechanisms are used to move and fix a given position.

Possible variant elevator rendered in the video.

Option for manufacturing a compact table with drawers

Quite an interesting design, which is easy to repeat for your own workshop.

real view milling machine

Structural elaboration in 3D with engineering programs

	Frame from individual parts. They are made from conifers wood.
	Organization of cuts when joining frame parts in the upper part. The main dimensions are shown.
	Organization of cuts when joining frame parts in the lower part.
	To install guides for drawers you will need to glue these parts from two blanks.
	Assembly of the table frame and installation of facing side panels.
	The table top consists of two plates. They are framed with side ribs. It is required to do docking on the mustache.
	The stop is made from several parts.
	Large drawer design.
	Small drawer design.
	The order of installation of the elements of the front of the box.

For the manufacture of such a machine, it will be necessary to perform the procurement of parts. Table 2 shows the equipment, blank dimensions and material.

Table 2: Accessories for making a router table

Design of the milling table

desktop machine for wood milling is shown below.

	Structural study of the product in the programs of three-dimensional modeling.
	Back view. From a special box, installed on an emphasis, a hose comes out, connected to a vacuum cleaner. This is how the dust generated during the milling of workpieces is removed.
	At the moment, the finger cutter is raised as high as possible. The window is moved.
	The shutters are moved. The cutter itself is lowered down.
	Hand router, installed in the space under the tabletop.
	Structural execution of connections for dust removal (aspiration system).
	Tool mounting features. Chip ducts are visible.
	Installing a long screw. With it, the position of the cutters on the working surface is adjusted.

	Rotating the nut on the screw moves the router up or down. A socket wrench is used.
	With the help of a measuring tool, the vertical overhang of the cutter beyond the table is set.
	Regulation of the position of the cutter from the stop.
	Desktop. Fraser not installed. Only the plexiglass to which the router is attached is visible.
	The quality of the work. There are no gaps between the glass and the tabletop.
	Before installation in the table, the router is screwed to the support platform made of plexiglass.

Option for making a table for a milling cutter

Quite an interesting design of the table. Here it was proposed to use a car jack to raise and lower the tool.

	If you remove the tabletop from the cabinet box, you can see a similar performance.
	A car jack allows you to develop a force of several tons. It rests on a special box, where the milling cutter itself is located.
	This is what the top of the table looks like. There are emphasis. A groove is made on the surface, with an aluminum guide channel glued into it.
	A carriage can be installed in the groove. With its help, the part for processing can be fed at any angle.
	The parallel stop is fixed in the desired position with the help of wing nuts. In the horizontal plane there are grooves along which the thrust device is displaced along the working surface of the table.
	Box for connecting a vacuum cleaner. You can use not only industrial, but also household vacuum cleaners.
	The router itself is attached to the tabletop with a steel base plate.
	Features of fastening the tool to the plate can be seen in the presented photo.
	Rotating the handle of the jack, the master moves the router in the vertical direction.

Detailed video about a homemade table.

Step-by-step production of a milling table based on a circular machine

Has a circular saw industrial production. It was decided to modernize it for possible installation milling equipment. In this case, the basic design does not undergo any changes. The manufactured part is quite simple and removable, if necessary, it can be removed without any problems. In fact, a removable tabletop will be made.

Brief description of the device

	The machine has a retractable wing. It is designed for cutting wide format sheets. Between the main part and the retractable there is a window that can be used to place additional technological equipment in it.
	By extending the wing to the maximum reach, you can install a tabletop with a router. Install option shown.
	After mounting the tabletop, the retractable wing is pressed closer to the main part of the machine. All gaps are removed. An additional tool can be fixed in this position.
	If you look from the side, you can see where the hand mill is located.
	A screwdriver is used to raise and lower the tool. It has a 13mm socket. It rotates the head of the M8 bolt. By setting the rotation in the desired direction, you can choose the direction of movement of the cutter (up or down).

Removable countertop manufacturing technology

	A laminated chipboard sheet is used as a countertop. Its thickness is 19 mm. The size is 360 540 mm. It corresponds to the size of the resulting window on the machine. Focusing on the sides, the center is determined. The milling shaft must be positioned in the center. It is attached with a reference pad in the selected location and the pad is outlined.
	A contour is formed on a chipboard sheet. It is necessary to accurately cut the window along this contour.
	In order to install the support pad tightly without gaps, you need to drill holes exactly along the edges of the markup. Holes are needed at all extreme points.
	The jigsaw cuts the window along the traced contour. In the presence of irregularities with the help of abrasive paper and a file, the walls are finalized.
	To install the router, you need two steel bars Ø 8 mm. Construction brackets are used. You only need to saw them off with an angle grinder cutting disc to a length of 255 mm.
	The router has holes where you can install rods. To make it easier to install them, the existing irregularities on the surface of the pins are removed with sandpaper.
	Having installed the tool exactly above the window, determine the places where the bars will be located during installation. But for them you need to cut special grooves. They are milled. Preparing for milling is required.
	Guide rails are attached using pistol-type clamps. Relative to them, the grooves for the pins will be milled. The depth relative to the surface is also set so that on the front of the table the support platform of the router comes out exactly flush with the table top.
	Having completed the milling on one side, proceed to a similar operation for the second bar. The guide rails are also installed here and fixed in the desired position.
	From above, the bars must be pressed with the help of clamping bars. Therefore, it will be necessary to prepare a groove where these wooden elements will be installed. First, they are cut out and tried on in place. Then mark and mill the groove of the desired size.

	Once in place, the bars will be securely and tightly pressed into their grooves.
	It can be seen that the recess under the slats was made to a smaller depth. Structurally, it was intended from the very beginning.
	The cutter is installed in its place. It is clearly positioned relative to the tabletop used. After fixing, it will stand in a given place without the possibility of movement in any direction.
	Since the production is carried out in an experimental mode, each stage is checked by pre-assembly of structural elements. At the moment, it is being tested how the wooden planks will press the bars and fix the tool in place.
	M8 bolts will be used for fixing. They have a secret head. To simplify installation, wing nuts will be used. They screw on without using a key. Along the way, such a solution allows, when tightening, to adjust the flatness of the sole of the router on the front side.
	Pressing the parts in place on the reverse side with the help of clamps, holes are drilled. Special markup was not performed, therefore, to facilitate assembly, mating fragments are marked with markers of different colors.. The countersink drills the holes on the working surface of the table under the conical heads of the screws.
	WITH inside clamping strips, the holes are drilled to Ø 15 mm. M8 nuts will be hidden here. Additionally, an auxiliary groove is machined using a round file. It will allow you to press the bars more tightly.
	Bolts are in place. Nuts are tightened. They will hide in the prepared holes. The assembly and disassembly process will not take much time. The bolts will always be in this position.
	Now all the elements are easily installed in their places. Additional fitting is not needed.
	The tabletop can be tried on on the table. Therefore, it is first laid with the working surface down. You will need to turn it over to see how it fits on the machine.

	The revolution is easy. The table top is in place.
	She stood flush with the main table circular machine. If you drown the cutters, then the additional part will not interfere with the work on sawing parts. Important! The manufactured device did not worsen the properties of the main machine, on which the installation is provided.
	Cutting windows and milling ancillary space inside the countertop noticeably weakened it. So reinforcement is needed. To increase the strength of the manufactured attachment, it was decided to use additional bars. them in right size sawed out on a sawing machine.
	After sawing the longitudinal and transverse bars, they are screwed to the countertop. Pre-lubricated with glue, and then fixed with screws. All holes are pre-drilled with a Ø 3 mm drill and then countersunk to fit the head of a Ø 8 mm self-tapping screw. Galvanized wood screws are used.
	By placing the tabletop on the machine, you can see that the parallel stop will not be able to move along its guides. The design of the countertop itself needs to be finalized.
	The surface to be removed is marked. This removal can be done with a milling cutter or with two passes on a circular saw.
	After completing the preparation, the countertop is put back in place. To make it easier to work at this stage, the milling cutter and accessories have been removed from it.
	After removing the excess, the parallel fence can move around the entire table. It was decided to use it as a clamp for milling. You only have to modify the auxiliary elements a little.

Making a lift for a milling tabletop

	Need to make several auxiliary elements to help move the router up and down. The view of the manufactured elevator is shown.
	Turning it over, you can see the features of the device. Supports and levers are visible. You need to figure out what and how will work here.
	The arrow shows a fixed stand. It bears the main load from the tool. Therefore, there are special requirements for it. It must be strong enough. She will have to counteract the weight of the router, as well as the return springs that are installed on this tool.
	This arrow points to the axis. The lever can rotate relative to it. The router itself “hangs” on this lever.
	The design of the lever has a feature. There is a radial bulge here. It rests on the part of the router where there are no ventilation holes. Additionally, it has a thickening in the plastic case, so the pressure will not violate the integrity of the tool design.
	A nut is located in the bar shown. If you turn the screw, the bar will move. A bracket is placed between the lever and the bar. Steel hinges are installed at its ends. They allow you to adjust the dimensions of all parts of the elevator.
	Another important element. It contains the head of the bolt. It rests on a bearing. Therefore, it can be rotated in any direction without much effort.
	The main support post will be cut out of 20 mm thick plywood.
	So that the stand does not move in any direction during operation, it is reinforced with additional scarves. The result is a product that resembles a rocket. It remains only to assemble such a device.
	"Rocket" will be installed on one side of the existing window.

	For the manufacture of the bracket, plywood with a thickness of 20 and 10 mm is used. The outer plates of ten mm plywood are screwed to the lever. Previously, the joint planes are coated with PVA glue.
	On the reverse side of the window, a bearing housing will be installed.
	Before assembling, the surfaces of the “rocket” supports are coated with glue.
	Support legs screwed with a long self-tapping screw (75 mm).
	Holes for additional fasteners are drilled on the reverse side of the tabletop. Such reinforcement is justified, the resistance of the milling cutter springs reaches up to 200 N (20 kg).
	4 more self-tapping screws are screwed, the length of which is 60 mm. Attention! When installing self-tapping screws on the front side, countersinking of the holes is mandatory.
	The bar is drilled through. A drill Ø 10 mm is used.
	Here you will need to install a captive nut. To prevent sharp edges from damaging the bar itself, drill holes Ø 2.5 mm to a depth of 1.5 mm.
	The nut is pressed into place. To do this, a bar with a nut is placed between the jaws of a vise and squeezed until the nut is finally seated in place.
	The part gets the look you want. The nut is firmly fixed on the bar. The strength is sufficient for the normal performance of this structural element of the elevator.

	To install the bolt head, you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 20 mm. Here, in the future, a socket head will be used, so a hole is prepared with some margin. The drilling depth is 16 mm (chipboard 19 mm thick). Important! Plywood 20 mm thick is installed from below. Therefore, the strength of the structure will not be compromised.
	After drilling a blind hole, a through hole is drilled. Its diameter is 8.5 mm. This is where the bearing and bolt will be installed.
	A nut is placed between the bolt head and the bearing. A sealed bearing is used, which will not be able to get chips and dust.
	Turning the table top over reveals a long bolt (180 mm). It must be fixed so that it can rotate.
	A washer is installed, and then a nut with a fluoroplastic insert is tightened. The installed fluoroplastic will not allow it to unwind. It is not tightly placed, there is a gap of about 0.5 mm. It will allow the bolt to rotate and transmit forces in any direction.
	There is a gap between the end of the bolt and the lever that needs to be filled. Need a bracket and overhead loops.
	Conventional loops are not enough, you will need to install additional straps.
	The length of these strips is selected.
	Self-tapping screws are screwed into the bar. Loops will be put on them.
	After putting on the loop, it will not be able to remove itself from the head of the self-tapping screw. In the hinges, the existing groove is narrower than the hole, on which the hat from the hardware is put on.

	It remains to assemble the entire structure of the elevator. All structural elements, which were mentioned earlier, are made.
	By installing the tabletop in the window of the machine, you can check the performance of the elevator design. A screwdriver is used, in which the socket head is set to 13. Starting rotations in one direction or another, the cutter moves up or down. Using a measuring tool, you can set the depth of milling grooves on parts.

Making fixtures for a parallel stop

	An additional element is cut out of the bar. It will serve as a guide for milling.
	On drilling machine half of the circle is selected. The cutter will “hide” in it.
	Attached fragment is ready. It remains only to fix it to the parallel stop.
	The easiest way is to use pistol-type clamps. They fix the attached element. You can mill grooves or quarters.
	The milling table is ready for the machine. It expands the functional properties of the base machine.

Such a removable tabletop can be installed in any suitable cabinet. Then you get a separate milling machine made at home. This device is characterized by the greatest simplicity and reliability.

Table designs for the router may be different. Different masters equip their devices various types elevators. Even stops, depending on the needs, can have their own execution. You just need to choose the one that will be convenient for performing a certain job.

Some professionals use different types stops. The choice is determined by the type of cutters used and the purpose of future parts.

The video shows the option of self-manufacturing a table to accommodate the router.

A milling machine is a professional woodworking tool that requires special installation. For installation, a milling table can serve, which is rarely found on sale, and those that are on the market cost a lot of money. Therefore, it is much easier to make a milling table with your own hands. It is the presence of a special machine that allows you to optimize the work as much as possible, make it safe and process the workpieces more quickly. This is due to the fact that it is not the tool (milling cutter) that moves along the material being processed, but the part is moved along the resulting machine. Below will be described how to make a homemade milling table.

The quality of work largely depends on the choice of a table for a milling machine.

Choice of material and table type

Professional craftsmen who are engaged in carpentry always try to make themselves a specialized milling machine. It not only simplifies the work, but also allows you to make more accurate and accurate cuts that will not differ from the factory ones. Many foreign companies offer some models of specialized milling machines, but these models are either not well thought out (not ergonomic and inconvenient), or they cost a lot of money, which will pay off for a long time. A home-made machine made for yourself will save money and will be convenient during operation. To make a machine for yourself, you must first decide on the type of its design.

As a countertop for a milling table, MDF boards or wood of different species are usually used.

In principle, all types of machine tools can be divided into 3 types:

• stand-alone (personal, non-portable);
• portable (small portable);
• expandable (stand - wing to the table).

Determining the type is quite simple, for which you should know the operating time on the machine. For long and long work, you should choose a separate machine. In case of rare use of the tool, a portable one is also suitable. A prefix or wing to the table is suitable if there is not enough free space. The advantages of a stand-alone table include the fact that when long work with the tool, you can not turn it off.

For the manufacture of machines, you can use MDF boards (on the countertop), pine boards(relatively cheap material) or boards of any other material. It is much easier to use MDF after all. This is the cheapest material for the production of furniture, easy to process. If financial opportunity allows, then preference should be given to natural wood.

Special mention must be made of metal. Some people consider metal to be the most durable material, and they are right. Metal is much stronger than wood, but it has significant drawbacks. For example, it is an ideal conductor, so it is not recommended to mount an electrical appliance on such a surface. Another disadvantage is weight. You should take care of the strength of the legs, which must withstand not only the surface of the table, but also the sum of the masses of the tool, parts and workpieces, the weight of a person. In addition, in winter, in an unheated room, the metal will be cold and create discomfort for the working master, the metal may rust. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to abandon the metal.

Small design details

To make a good multifunctional table, you should know the principle of the router.

In order to make a good machine, you need to know how the router works, and how best to process workpieces on it.

So, the milling cutter is mainly used for processing the longitudinal edge of the part. If it is necessary to mill grooves across the workpiece, it is recommended to provide a special groove in the design for the stop-carriage. In addition to the above function, additional clamps can be attached to the groove for better processing of the workpiece.

It will greatly simplify the work of an emphasis placed longitudinally, which will act as a guide for the materials being processed. This stop must be perfectly flat and even, the working plane of the stop must be perpendicular to the plane of the table surface, and the stop itself must be movable. The latter is required to adjust to the dimensions of the workpieces. With proper manufacture of such an emphasis, the machine will be able not only to mill, but also to joint (plan) materials. A groove should be provided in the stop, which will allow the installation of auxiliary tools. You can also provide attachments for a vacuum cleaner hose on it, which, working on blowing, will allow you to quickly clean the treated surface from chips and sawdust, improving visibility.

A properly made milling table with metal plates will allow you to quickly change the cutter if necessary.

But the most important thing is the way the router is attached. To mount the tool, metal countertops are usually used, which look like a small plate that is attached to the countertop. The milling cutter is attached to this plate with screws or bolts in specially made holes. The use of such a mini-surface will save up to 1 cm of milling depth, you can make a quick dismantling (mounting) of the tool and more evenly fix the tool to the metal tabletop.

The speed of removal of the milling cutter from such a plate will allow you to quickly replace the cutter on it. There is still a gain and on fastening. So, if for attaching a tool to wooden table top very careful leveling of the surface is required, it is necessary to drill holes in the right places, which for another model of the tool may not be suitable both in diameter and in attachment points, then in the case of a metal mini-surface, the surface of the boards is leveled only at the attachment point of the sheet of metal, points fasteners will always be static, which will allow you to quickly change the tool if necessary. Each router has its own attachment points, so before installing it, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with its drawings.

Installing the router using the drawings is not difficult - just drill holes, maintaining the dimensions (distances between them).

Table manufacturing procedure

A properly assembled milling table allows you to process various surfaces.

A primitive home-made table may look like this: an MDF tabletop, fixed on 4 legs, on (under) which a tool is installed, a board is fixed on the tabletop - a guide that can be fixed to the table and with clamps. This is the easiest option. However, it is irrational, because part of the tabletop (at least 50%) will not be used in the process of work, in addition, there is a high probability of uneven installation of the router, which will cut uneven grooves. It is more rational to use this design on the folding wing of the table. This will significantly save space in the workshop and rationally use the work surface.

The next option differs from the previous one in advanced features. So, in the middle of the table, a hole is made for mounting the tool, the Guide Board is made with a groove for processing thin workpieces, and fixed with self-tapping screws. Next, a groove is made (at some distance from the router), which will allow milling workpieces at an angle.

A portable machine looks very simple. Small legs are attached to the tabletop (the size is equal to the length of the router + 5-7 cm). The dimensions of the tabletop itself are minimal, allowing you to install only a router + 15-20 cm. This option will be mobile (portable), but it will be inconvenient to work on it long time. This mini-machine is suitable for extremely rare tool use.

Individual workplace

Consider the manufacture of a "serious" table for a router.

To begin with, it is worth mentioning the size. On average, the size can be 1 x 1 or 1 x 0.7 (0.8) m. This will not only allow you to work comfortably on the table, but also place other auxiliary items on it. A frame is knocked under the tabletop (legs, which should be attached not only to the tabletop, but also have an additional screed).

Then they do the countertop. For its manufacture, it is necessary to knock down the boards (to the desired size), carefully plan them with a planer and sand them with sandpaper so that they are almost smooth surface. Then plywood is glued onto the countertop. It will make the surface almost perfectly flat. To prevent plywood from peeling off under the influence of vibrations, it should be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. When the glue dries and the plywood is fixed to the countertop with self-tapping screws, a hole is cut in the middle of the countertop for mounting the router. The hole should have a rectangular shape and have dimensions equal to the size of the router + 50-100 mm in length and width.

The tabletop surface of the milling table must be even and smooth.

The next step is to prepare a metal plate to which the router will be attached. It should have a size equal to the size of the hole + 2.5-3 cm in length and width. The fixing points of the tool are determined in place.

Next, install a guide board or stop. The latter is preferable. It is better to make the emphasis movable (as described above) and double, so that they can clamp the material. Mobility is provided by grooves for the entire length of the table, into which metal guides are inserted. An anchor is made on the stops themselves, which will enter the guides. It can be cut out of wood or attached to the wheels stop.

For the convenience of work, grooves are cut out in the tabletop, which will allow processing workpieces at an angle. Their width and the distance between them is determined by the master. Several drawers for tools can be attached to the bed. In order for the table to have a pleasant appearance, slopes should be made on the table top and legs. and varnish all surfaces.

Such a table will allow you to quickly, without straining, process workpieces, which will make the woodworking time enjoyable.