The electric planer is designed for processing wood surfaces in one pass with a width of up to 120 mm and a processing depth of up to 1.2 mm or a width of up to 30 mm and a depth of up to 8 mm. The workpiece rests on a plate with a shaped hole for the knife shaft. On base plate with the help of two M8 screws with plastic heads (but can also be turnkey) a guide square is attached, which prevents the lateral displacement of the product during processing.
Knife shaft bearing supports are attached to the base plate from below with M6 countersunk screws. Since there are no structural measures to protect the bearings from dust, ball bearings with two shields are used. A V-belt pulley is installed at the end of the knife shaft outside the base plate. The plate is fastened with ten M6 screws to the body, welded from a steel angle 20x20x3 mm.
Three M6 screws with cylindrical heads, through spring washers, together with the base plate, connect the safety cover above the V-belt drive to the housing. The electric motor is placed inside the housing and connected to it by means of two supports in the form of steel strips, each of which has two holes with a diameter of 6.5 mm for mounting on the housing and two grooves for installing and adjusting the position of the electric motor for tensioning the V-belt drive.
The electric motor is controlled from the remote control, which is located on the front of the case. Inside the remote control, under the U-shaped bracket, there are two parallel-connected phase-shifting capacitors (not electrolytic!) with a capacity of 4 microfarads each; a switch is mounted on the outside of the control panel. The electric motor is protected from direct hit by shavings and dust by a casing. Let us note the features of the manufacture of parts and assemblies of the electric planer.
The base plate is made first. The most laborious is the implementation of a figured slot in it for the exit of knives. To do this, you can use an electric drill with a cutting wheel of small diameter or drill along the contour of the hole and then process the slot with a file. After drilling the mounting holes in the base plate, threaded holes are made through them in the four upper corners of the housing.
Before welding, the upper corners are attached to the base plate with all ten screws, and the remaining corners of the body are attached to them by welding. Then the base plate is removed and the body is finally welded along the contour, the welds are cleaned. Particularly carefully - along the plane of the body to the base plate. Gaps are not allowed here, as they can cause vibration during the operation of the electric planer.
After completing the assembly, you need to make sure that the knife shaft rotates in the feed direction, that is, counterclockwise when viewed from the console. This is important because the way the V-belt pulley is attached to the cutterhead prevents it from turning in the opposite direction. Before starting work, it is necessary to carefully, without gaps, fix the body of the electric planer on the workbench with four M6 screws through the holes in its lower corners.
The knife shaft is equipped with two 120 mm wide knives or one grooving knife. In the latter case, a counterweight is installed on the opposite side of the shaft to eliminate imbalance and vibration. Each knife is secured with clamping plates and three M8 screws screwed into the threaded through holes of the knife shaft.
The most accessible blanks for knives are worked-out hacksaw blades for metal with a thickness of about 3 mm. The sharpening angle of the cutting edges of the knives should be in the range of 30° -40°. With curly sharpening, it is easy to obtain relief surfaces for platbands, artistic frames, and so on. Thin and narrow profile strips (less than 10 mm wide) can be prepared by sawing more than wide board. When working with a narrow knife (less than 12 mm), grooves deeper than 8 mm should not be machined due to insufficient tool strength.
Simple electric planer: 1 - base plate (steel, sheet 350x180, s3); 2 - body (corner 20x20x3); 3 - knife shaft; 4 - knife (2 pcs.); 5 - plate (2 pcs.); 6.8 - bearing housings; 7 - bearing 80201; 9 - bearing 80203; 10 - driven pulley; 11 - fungus (steel, diameter 60x12); 12 - V-belt (profile A, 13x8, L650); 13 - electric motor DAV71 -2; 14 - support (steel, sheet 180x20, s3.2 pcs.); 15 - guide square (corner 30x30x4, L350); 16 - belt cover (aluminum, sheet 200x100, s2); 17 - electric motor casing (aluminum, sheet 200x160, s2); 18 - control panel; 19 - screw fixing the angle (2 pcs.); 20 - M6x10 screw (with countersunk head, 11 pcs.); 21 - screw M8x16 (6 pcs.); 22.23 - washers; 24 - screw M6x 12 (with a cylindrical head, 3 pcs.); 25 - spring washer (3 pcs.).
In the present age innovative technologies in production, hand tools are rarely used, and in mass production they are not used at all. However, there have always been, are and will be craftsmen - cabinetmakers, for whom working with wood is not only part of the business, but also a favorite pastime.
For them, making a product with their own hands is always a pleasure. Such specialists have a lot of hand carpentry tools in their workshop.
Introduction
In addition, in the absence of expensive electrical equipment, the farm has home master there must be a number of necessary cutters, fixtures and hand tools, the classic example of which is the planer.
Planer types
A planer is a hand tool for woodworking, which allows you to bring the surface of the product with your own hands to the required quality and size. Having the whole set of types of this tool, you can not only process the surface, but also make various carpentry crafts.
Planer has a whole arsenal of types:
Flat planing:
- sherhebel;
- jointer;
- semi-joiner;
- bear;
- sander;
- cynubel;
- end face;
- single;
- double.
Shape planing:
- zenzubel;
- federgubel;
- false bed;
- headquarters or headquarters;
- tongue and groove;
- mold;
- grubbel;
- hunchback
Having the whole set of hand tools, if desired, you can make works of wood of any complexity. At the same time, an important factor in successful work is do-it-yourself sharpening of planer knives, which is an expensive production service.
From curly planes useful features the zenubel stands out. It is used for the manufacture of grooves, quarters, stripping and bringing the spikes and cuts to the desired size. The manufacture of this type of instrument will be discussed.
The article outlines an algorithm for how to make a planer with your own hands.
additional information
All of the tools listed above are standardized products. Therefore, in order for them to perform their work correctly and accurately, they must be manufactured in accordance with the requirements of GOST 15987-91. Below are extracts from GOST that define the basic requirements.
Do-it-yourself planer drawings
materials
The list of required materials from which to make hand planer do it yourself:
- ash;
- maple;
- hornbeam;
- white acacia;
- birch (allowed).
The wood must be well dried, without knots, cracks and rot. For gluing parts, you must use waterproof glue.
Requirements for the metal used
Knives are made from the following types of two-layer steel:
- the main layer - from brand 30, GOST 1050, (U8, U8A, U9, GOST 1435 is allowed);
- cladding layer - from grades 9ХФ, 9Х5ВФ, Х6ВФ, 9ХС, GOST 5950.
It is allowed to use metal of other grades, but not worse than those given in the standard. Knives must be perfectly sharpened, and have an appropriate sharpening angle.
Preparation for work
To make a planer with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools.
Equipment and tools
Materials and accessories
Description of the manufacturing process
The planer offered for making with your own hands has a creative look, and is quite convenient to use. The product is shown in the figure.
The material of the heel, nose and sole of the planer is ash. Cheeks and wedge - oak. The thickness of the planer should be equal to the width of the knife blade, 20 mm.
A blank 20 mm thick is made from an ash board on a thickness gauge, on which, using a paper template, the contours of the future planer are applied with a pencil.
Then you need to cut a hole for the hand. For this:
- Using a drill, drill holes of 10 mm for a file;
- An electric jigsaw makes a cutout for the hand along the marked contour;
- On grinding machine handle inner surface holes.
On milling machine, with the help of a finger cutter, on both sides of the workpiece, samples are cut under the cheeks. Sampling depth 5 mm.
On a circular saw, the excess upper part is removed, and with the help of trimming, the part is cut into two halves - the nose and the heel, along the marked line with a slope of 45 degrees.
If the workshop has mastered such an operation as sharpening a plane with your own hands, then the sharpening angle of the blade should be 45 degrees so that the protruding cutting edge of the knife is parallel to the plane of the sole.
To do this, the oak blank is cut into two halves, the surface and ribs are cleaned with a planer.
Then insert the cheek into the heel groove, mark the cutout for the handle with a pencil, and cut off the excess part on the band saw.
Similarly, a cutout is made on the second cheek. On both cheeks, with the help of a trimmer, a hacksaw and a chisel, a hole for the knife is cut out.
They connect the cheek, heel and nose of the future planer together, mark a line on the nose with a carpenter's goniometer for a hole for the future wedge, and remove the extra corner on the trim.
On a band saw, the heel blank is cut along the marked contours.
At the next stage, you need to glue all the parts into a single structure with your own hands. First, the nose and heel are glued to one cheek. To do this, carefully smearing the parts with glue, apply and press with clamps. After drying, glue the second cheek on the opposite side.
After the glue has dried, on a band saw, the workpiece is finally cut along the contour and the outer and inner edges are manually processed on grinding drum. With a semicircular cutter on a milling machine, all the sharp edges of the planer workpiece are processed on both sides.
The wedge is made from oak. To do this, mark its contours, cut out on a band saw and grind.
In conclusion, it is required to carefully grind the entire planer blank by hand. Of particular importance is the quality of the sole, which is the working part of the tool. The purity of the workpiece depends on its condition.
The processing of the flat sides of the workpiece is done by hand, using sandpaper pressed against the ideal flat surface. The plate is suitable for this. planer. First grind sandpaper with grain 100-150. The sole is brought to a “mirror state” with a grain of 600-800.
GOST requirements allow deviation flat surface soles no more than 0.12 mm per 100 mm of length. Not all industries have an appropriate measuring device.
The tool is coated with a waterproof colorless varnish, and the do-it-yourself planer is ready.
Conclusion
With this tool, in addition to making grooves and sampling quarters, it is very convenient to make thin cleaning of surfaces, trimming corners, which are difficult to handle manually with a chisel.
For a better mastering of the manufacturing process, it is recommended to watch the video.
Do-it-yourself planer video
Source: https://verstakdoma.ru/stati/instrument/samodelny/rubanok-svoimi-rukami/
How can you make a planer with your own hands?
- 16-10-2014
- How to select and process a workpiece?
- Pre-assembly of the structure
- Completion of the construction
- How is it made final assembly tool?
- How to properly adjust the manufactured tool?
For a large number people enjoy working with wood. It's nice to make a table for the veranda yourself or make a bench for the garden. You should know that this is a lot of physical labor. However, today the work can be much simplified by using electric planers. Everyone, even a beginner, can work with such a tool.
Plane drawing.
This device has been around for a long time. Externally, modern electric planers resemble old designs, but in terms of performance they are several times superior to mechanical designs.
With the help of an electric planer, you can process wood, reduce the thickness of wood blanks, plan, adjust, process boards on a bed, bevel edges. With this device, it is not possible to process large surfaces, but in the case of small volumes, it makes sense to use such a tool.
The planer is more intended for leveling the surface of wood, which has previously been roughly processed.
After leveling the base with this tool, all irregularities and defects will disappear from the product, as a result of which it will become extremely smooth.
Finishing wood in most cases is done with a grinding planer. With this tool, you can also make a groove or chamfer in the part.
How to make a planer with your own hands?
Figure 1. Scheme of planer elements.
In order to work with concave or convex bases, humpbacks-moulders were invented, with the help of which they produce textured planing of wood blanks. These elements have a special form.
They have no special advantages over modern planers. In addition, working with these devices is quite difficult.
To produce high-quality processing of parts, you will need to have some experience and special skills.
Today at construction stores it is very difficult to find a kalevka, since almost all stores sell electronic equipment. That is why it is much easier to make a planer yourself.
Elements that you will need in order to make your own planer:
- iron element.
- Chip breaker.
- Wood preparation.
- Simple pencil.
- Wedge.
- Band-saw.
- Plywood sheet.
- Chisel.
- File.
- adhesive mixture.
- Drilling device.
- Clamps.
- Bar with a section of 12x12 mm.
- Planer.
- Micro skin.
Tools for making a planer.
A self-made planer with docking points for all elements can be seen in fig. 1.
The iron element will determine the dimensions of the tool body, so the first step is to make an iron element and a chip breaker.
For planer small sizes you can use an iron element from an old tool, and for a planer with oval-shaped elements, ready-made "pieces of iron" that can be purchased at a hardware store.
These fixtures are initially filled with a radius, they can be purchased complete with suitable chip breakers.
In most cases, the planer is made from the most common types of wood - birch, maple, etc. The workpiece must be made 30-50 mm larger than the final dimensions of the tool being manufactured.
The width can be determined by the following formula: the dimensions of the "piece of iron" + 3 mm + 20 mm for the cheeks + an additional 6 mm for processing on the machine.
If a small planer is made, then the cheeks can be approximately 6 mm thick.
The marking of the tool must be done in such a way that the rings are perpendicular to the sole, and the fiber runs down from the front to the back. So that after sawing all the elements can be connected in the correct order, on the front of the block you will need to draw a triangle with the top up.
Scheme for the manufacture of a knife for a planer.
First of all, you will need to make 2 elements of the middle section, between which, with the help of a wedge, you will need to fix the "piece of iron" and the chipbreaker. After that, 2 cheeks are attached.
The body of the tool is assembled from a blank, which is sawn into 2 parts. Cheeks are cut out band saw. Next, the middle section is sawn into several parts.
At the same time, it will be necessary to form the bed of the iron element and the opening of the chipbreaker. The wedge can be sawn from the unused trim. Upon completion of the assembly, the body and sole must be machined to shape.
At the end, the planer is adjusted.
The middle element should be 4 mm wider than the piece of iron. In addition, there should be an allowance of another 4 mm for processing the middle structural element to the shape of a rectangle. You can mark the cheeks using the same saw.
A bed of "piece of iron" is placed at an angle of 45 ° so that chips can easily exit. At an angle of 60 ° there is a notch of the front opening.
The middle element is sawn into the front part, which is called the toe, and the back part, which is commonly called the heel.
Next, you need to make an ordinary template from plywood sheets, which selects the groove for the screw head, which ends at a distance of approximately 20 mm from the bottom of the housing. The groove can be selected with a chisel.
Varieties of planes.
Before assembling the planer, the mouth of the middle element must be lightly filed using a “piece of iron” shape. Further, the rear part of this section is installed on the edge, the iron element is put in place, after which the front part is moved towards it. At the end, you need to check the correctness of the fit.
Further, the structure is moved apart so that a gap of 3 mm is formed between the parts of the middle structural element for an iron element 4.5 mm thick, which forms the mouth of the tool. After that, all parts of the planer will need to be aligned and compressed. Through the cheeks in the middle section on the 2 sides, you will need to drill holes in order to install the dowels and glue them.
In most cases, planers are rectangular in shape; you should not waste time on ennobling the structure. In the side walls, you should choose small niches for the fingers. To make it convenient to grip the tool, you need to chamfer the corners.
When the planer has its final shape, the bevels will need to be sawn off. Up to this point, they will be able to ensure the exact exhibition of all elements, so that it is possible to fit the transverse rod. So that during the process of gluing the elements of the tool, the dowels do not interfere, they must be sawn off flush with the cheeks.
Scheme of assembly and adjustment of the planer.
On the extreme parts of the rod, you will need to install round spikes that will go into the holes in the cheeks. Due to these spikes, the structure will be able to rotate at an angle to the wedge.
In order to be able to make holes for the rod on the top of the planer, an additional line must be drawn at right angles to the side parts. Next, 1 cheek is removed from the assembly, and with the iron element and chip breaker installed, the line is transferred to another cheek.
The second cheek is removed from the middle part and at a distance of 20 mm from the bottom of the structure and 12 mm from the top of the chip breaker, the center of the hole for the rod is marked.
The cheeks are aligned along the drawn lines, compressed with clamps, after which a hole is drilled.
The rod can be made from a bar with a section of 12x12 mm. The length of the rod should be equal to the width of the tool, taking into account the cheeks. The length of the spikes is determined based on the thickness of the cheeks. At each end of the rod, you need to make 4 shoulders. After that, the spikes are rounded with a knife.
To ensure smooth chip exit, the upper ribs of the middle core element will need to be rounded off. After manufacturing the rod, you will need to check its fit to the tool. The rod must rotate freely.
When the rod is adjusted, you will need to check the location of the spikes and dowels. These elements should be flush with the cheeks.
All elements will need to be glued and fixed with clamps, while the cheeks should be protected with gaskets. When the adhesive mixture dries, you need to clean the protruding solution.
In order to be able to level the sole over the joints, it is necessary to go through the design 1 time with a planer.
The wedge, which can be made from cutting from the middle element, must be installed between the chipbreaker and the rod. If the wedge is flat, then it will be difficult to knock it out. If the angle is too large, then the wedge can be knocked out even with gentle blows.
After assembling the planer, you will need to make a sole and remake the mouth for the final fit to the iron element, taking into account the purpose of the tool being made. A narrow gap in front of the iron element is a prerequisite for fine chip removal, but be aware that a gap of 0.8 mm is more suitable for coarse chips.
Scheme for adjusting the release of the blade of the planer.
The most labor-intensive stage of work is fitting the mouth of the tool being made to the piece of iron. The notch will need to be rounded in accordance with the bends of the iron element. This can only be done through a small opening in the sole of the tool. If the planer is made to remove thin chips, then care must be taken to ensure that the gap of the mouth is as narrow as possible.
At the uneven line of the front part of the middle element, it is necessary to fix the iron element, and then attach correct form sole. To do this, in a vice, you need to clamp the tool being made with the sole up and from the ribs to the middle, where you need to remove a small amount of wood. Next, the design must be processed with a planer with a flat sole.
When there is a gap of 0.8 mm to the radius of the iron element in the planer, you will need to switch to the scraper. This is done in order to be able to remove the media from the planer.
Further, a small skin is fixed on the plate and the lower part of the planer is cleaned with long identical passes, shaking the tool from side to side. Then you will need to examine the contours of the sole of the iron element.
At the end, you need to clean the sole with micron sandpaper, which is attached to a flat base.
After stripping, the iron element will not be able to pass through the mouth of the tool. Therefore, you need to remove the wood in front of the iron element with a small file. You need to shoot until the mouth and the iron element match. As a result, the "piece of iron" should slightly come out of the sole.
If the quality of the manufactured fixture is satisfactory, then the planer can be varnished. On the side parts of the structure, it is recommended to apply an additional 1 layer of varnish.
In the process of gluing all structural elements, it is necessary to remove all excess adhesive mixture in a timely manner, which may protrude after the workpiece is compressed in a vice.
Making a planer on your own is not so difficult if you know all the existing nuances. You will need to comply correct sequence actions and have everything available necessary tools and materials.
Source: http://MoiInstrumenty.ru/standartnye/kak-sdelat-rubanok-svoimi-rukami.html
Few people in childhood left indifferent the first visit to the carpentry workshop. The indescribable smell of fresh wood shavings, the cleanliness and smoothness of a freshly planed board, the fluffiness of sawdust - this is the place where, with the help of a thickening machine, several clumsy boards with a scratchy surface from protruding fibers were magically transformed into an elegant stool.
The result of the work of the thicknesser was perfectly even lumber, which was suitable for the manufacture of many such interesting and beautiful things.
The design and types of thicknessing machines
Certainly, thicknesser was not the only one in that workshop. And many of these workshops could not boast of such luxury at all. But a circular saw, often assembled on the same shaft as the planer drum, was almost always available.
And then a simple device that allows you to control the uniformity of pressing the workpiece to the surface of the desktop, brought the planer closer in its functionality to the planer, which in skillful hands provided almost the same result, although somewhat more expensive both in terms of work and time.
We talk about this in such detail here, so that the main topic of the article is clearer - making a thicknessing (thickness) machine with our own hands. After all, his main task: to plan the molded wooden material with the same thickness. And several successive planing operations on a planer with such a clamping device will provide this result.
But what is a real gage equipped with?
Thicknessing machine has:
- Desktop;
- working shaft (1 or 2), two - for simultaneous processing of two surfaces of the workpiece or one - for processing the workpiece on one side;
- rolls for clamping and pulling the workpiece (a pair from above or two - from above and below), with electric or manual drive;
- table height adjustment system;
- backstop protection system.
In the option of finalizing the planer, some of the listed systems are missing. But also, dual-purpose machines are industrially produced - planer-thickness planers.
In them, under the working table for jointing, there is a height-adjustable working table of the thicknesser. The processing of the workpiece is carried out by the same drum with knives as jointing. In this case, only the upper part of it is processed. During the operation of the machine as a thicknesser, the upper part of the machine is closed with a protective overlay, in order to avoid injury.
Sometimes a wide cutter is installed instead of a drum with knives.
Schematic diagram of the operation of the thicknessing machine
Why make a thicknessing machine with your own hands?
The scheme of work for most home craftsmen should be clear even without visualization, but for ease of understanding the tasks of self-manufacturing a thickness gauge, it will not be superfluous.
Motivation for self-manufacturing any equipment - two:
- desire for self-realization;
- desire for savings.
All the rest follow from the above. And you can save a lot of things:
- first of all - money due to the abolition of auxiliary functions, without which it is quite possible to do without in a home workshop;
- in the second - electricity by reducing the number of electric drives;
- in the third - a place in the workshop due to optimization and sizing.
If we talk about a full-fledged thicknessing machine, then, based on the three-dimensional drawing below, its components can be reduced to the following list:
- electric drive from an electric motor with a power of 1.5 - 2.5 kW for a two-knife drum rotating at a speed of 5 - 10 thousand rpm;
- manual chain adjustment of the level of the desktop;
- manual chain coupled feed of the workpiece with two lingering pressure rollers.
But you yourself accept the concept of your thickness gauge. Consider 3 approaches to implementing the idea of self-manufacturing a thicknessing machine.
High-tech method of manufacturing a thicknessing machine
There are 3 independent electric drives, which are:
- drive the cutting drum,
- are pinch rollers,
- adjust the position of the desktop.
Torque is transmitted to the drum by means of a V-belt transmission, and in the remaining two versions - by a chain. Moreover, the uniformity of the pressing of the rollers is regulated by interconnected spring-loaded intermediate sprockets, although in our opinion, such a system will still not allow to avoid some temporary weakening of the chain at the moment the workpiece leaves the feed roller.
The tension of the drive chain for adjusting the height of the desktop is carried out by two rigidly fixed sprockets.
Such a machine will not turn out to be cheap, and an abundance of fairly complex nodes will require constant Maintenance. But, apparently, this is exactly the case when it was precisely the desire for self-realization that came to the fore, because for the same money it would be quite possible to find a used thicknessing machine and, having slightly repaired it, provide a solution to the same problems.
Do-it-yourself thicknessing machine from an electric planer
It is this approach to solving most tasks for the thickness gauge that arise in the conditions of a home workshop that seems to us the most interesting.
First of all, this interest is based on minimal modifications to an existing tool to perform the work of expensive equipment with almost the same result.
By installing an electric planer on a platform with a variable height, we get almost the same thickness gauge.
True, it regulates not the position of the desktop, but the position of the working tool in relation to the workpiece being processed, but the essence of the process does not change from this.
The role of the table here is performed by a flat powerful board with width limiters on the sides. They also serve as a place of attachment of the main node. But first, let's talk about him.
On the planer, we will change the back support plate to a home-made one made of OSB or plywood, with a thickness that provides the same level with the front plate, which regulates the necessary clearance (1 - 3 mm) for chip removal. Its width should correspond to the width of our impromptu desktop.
On the sides of this plate, rails are screwed for attaching the legs, the height of which is dictated solely by common sense.
It is obvious that, based on the standard width of the planer knives of 82 mm, the thickness of the processed workpieces should not be more than 100 mm, so the distance between the axes of the leg fastenings can be taken equal to 110 - 120 mm.
Accordingly, their total length will vary from 140 to 160 mm with a width of 35 mm and a thickness of at least 10 mm. The legs are fastened strictly at the same distance from the edge of the bar.
The installation of the assembled movable upper unit with an electric planer on the desktop is carried out in place, so that the fastening is strictly on the same level. This is done to parallelize its movement relative to base surface, which will ensure the accuracy of the workpiece processing.
The height in the process of work is most easily set by selecting rails of the appropriate thickness, screwed onto the width limiters of the desktop, or using other supports.
And the clamping of the working tool should be provided with spring ties or a tourniquet, but for small workpieces this is not required at all. Also, in a given position, this parallel platform can be fixed with self-tapping screws.
the use of a thickness gauge assembled by one's own hands:
Budget version of a homemade surface gauge
This is the simplest method of using an electric planer as a thicknesser. Of course, it is unlikely that anyone would think of calling this design a thicknessing machine, but in terms of the function it performs, this is exactly it.
We deliberately chose the option for wide blanks. Indeed, in this form, he performs work that is beyond the power of most industrial thicknessing machines precisely because of the width of the material being processed, and in our case it is limited only by the length of your hands.
Of course, we cannot recommend such a barbarous fastening of an electric planer - a rather expensive tool - to a movable platform.
Where more interesting option fixing it, described in the previous section of the article, but using a wider platform and carrying out the rails along the width, and not along the axis of the tool.
In this case, the risk of damaging something important inside the planer body is reduced to zero.
In the given example, a glued set of wooden slats various sizes and even types of wood.
Height adjustment is carried out by installing calibrated bars on the sides of the working table, two sets of which will allow you to process an unlimited number of workpieces on both sides in the size specified in thickness.
Obviously, the same system can be used when processing molded material, and not just wide and short workpieces, but at the same time, unlike the thicknessing machine and the previous option for using an electric planer as its quality, you will not move the workpiece, but move independently along her.
No less obvious is the fact that the desktop must be perfectly flat in the horizontal plane, otherwise its unevenness can be transmitted to all processed workpieces. Watch the video example below:
Dear readers, if you still have questions, ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you 😉
Having completed a universal thickness gauge with your own hands, it will be possible to significantly simplify the processing of lumber, saving on the purchase of a professional tool. Thickness thicknessers are used for planing lumber and giving surfaces an ideal even shape. Home-made machines are versatile in use, allowing you to guarantee high-quality processing of lumber and giving them the necessary shape.
Tool Description
Thickness gauges are woodworking machines, which allow planing and leveling the surface of lumber with the implementation of boards of a given thickness. Such wood processing is carried out when using lumber in construction and manufacturing various designs. Planing equipment is in demand on the market and is popular with ordinary homeowners who are independently engaged in construction in the country and in their own home.
Self-made thicknessers are simple in design, which allows them to be made using electric planers, grinders and other similar power tools as a basis. It is only necessary to take care of the availability of an appropriate scheme, which should be followed when making home-made equipment.
Advantages of homemade machines
The do-it-yourself jointing machine is distinguished by its versatility of use. The functionality of such equipment will be enough for high-quality wood processing. On home-made machines, you can not only plan lumber, but also perform finishing boards, giving them required thickness and a perfectly flat surface.
The advantages of self-made thicknessers include the following:
To make a homemade thickness gauge with your own hands, you can use an electric planer, on the basis of which a machine is made that allows high-quality wood processing, including planing, edging and chamfering. It is only necessary to select a high-quality project for the manufacture of a home-made thicknesser, which will become the key to the implementation of reliable and versatile equipment.
On the Internet you can find various schemes of execution homemade jointers, which are distinguished by functionality and ease of manufacture. In the future, you should adhere to the scheme on hand, selecting the appropriate components and correctly assembling the machine, the functionality of which will fully meet the requirements of homeowners.
Necessary materials
There are many options for making homemade planers, which will differ in their basis. The easiest way to perform such a tool is on the basis of an electric planer or electric jigsaw.
To complete the planer, you will need the following:
Plywood and timber will be required to make the base of the machine and manual table, on which an electric planer and other elements responsible for the functionality and safety of using the equipment will subsequently be attached.
Nessesary to use quality wood, which is additionally recommended to be treated with impregnations from decay.
Step-by-step instruction
Making a thickness gauge is not difficult, so almost everyone can handle the implementation of such equipment.
You will need to do the following work:
This is the most simple design thicknesser, which can be performed at home. On the network you can find various drawings of a thickness gauge from an electric planer with your own hands, which will differ in their functionality and manufacturing method.
Subsequently, it is possible to upgrade the completed basic design of the machine by adding additional tools, which expands the functionality of the equipment.
Safe to use equipment
When performing any home-made woodworking machine, you need to take care of the safety of working on the equipment. The cutter, if possible, should be covered with protective devices, and work on the machine, where the working cutting element does not have any protection, is prohibited. Majority homemade schemes thickness gauges have high-quality protection of the electric planer, which makes it possible to exclude injuries when working with such equipment.
- Working with homemade tool protective goggles and work gloves must be used. In particular, the latter will be required when working with rough dense workpieces, when there is a beating of a home-made thickness gauge from an electric planer during material processing.
- The studs used must not be cracked, defective or damaged. If cracks or damage are found, the defective parts of the machine must be replaced.
Subject to the simplest safety measures, work on the thickness gauge will not present any difficulty, and the machine itself will last for many years. on home-made machines it will be possible to perform high-quality wood processing, saving on the purchase of industrial milling machines.
Knowing the rules for working on a thickness gauge will improve the quality of lumber processing, saving the homeowner from any difficulties with the operation of the tool he has made.
The operating rules are as follows:
A properly assembled planer-based planer will not yield to expensive factory equipment in terms of functionality, efficiency and productivity. You only need to find on the Internet a high-quality scheme for the manufacture of thickness gauge and subsequently follow the drawings, collecting electric machine. The easiest way to make such a tool is on the basis of an electric planer, which is mounted on plywood base. The simplest thickness gauge, made independently, will be functional in use, guaranteeing high-quality wood processing.
Every woodworking master will agree that an electric planer is a useful, and often completely irreplaceable thing in a home workshop. With the help of such manual machine any wooden blanks can be processed very high quality, and most importantly - quickly.
Another indispensable tool for the processing of various wooden parts is a thickness gauge. The cost of such equipment is now quite high, so it usually makes sense to buy it only if the master will earn something on processing wood blanks. If such a machine will be used not for the purpose of earning money, but only for performing various works around the house, then the best solution would be to make a thickness gauge from an electric planer. It is quite possible to do such work even with your own hands. At the same time, the quality of work performed when using such a home-made machine will remain at a fairly high level.
Necessary equipment
Homemade thicknesser
To make a thickness gauge from an electric planer with your own hands, you need to have:
- electric planer, which will not be a pity to remake into another tool;
- drawings of future equipment;
- plywood and bars for assembling the equipment case;
- a small amount of free time.
First of all, when processing an electric planer, it is necessary to determine exactly what sizes of parts will be created on the new machine. The dimensions of the thickness gauge being created will directly depend on their dimensions: this equipment must have a body of the same width and height, as well as the length of the pins and guides, which will exactly match the workpiece.
Proper installation of studs and guides
Also an important point is the position of the pin, using which it will be possible to raise and lower the tool during operation. Many self-taught people make this hairpin so that it is located exactly in the middle of the body. But such a decision is completely wrong: when making such a machine with your own hands, it is recommended to place the hairpin exactly in the middle between the rear and front handles. In such a case, not only will it become more comfortable work with a tool, but fixing it in the right position is much more reliable, and it will be much easier to do it.
When converting an electric planer to a manual thickness gauge with your own hands, its hairpin must be made as mobile as possible. To this end, in top cover the new machine is equipped with a rolling bearing. In addition, a nut is installed on the middle plate, which is responsible for setting the height of the machine. In this case, the height of the entire equipment can be adjusted, if necessary, with a small step and a sufficiently high accuracy.
The guides of a new machine for the workpieces processed on it can easily be made from ordinary bars, while a small margin of length should be provided so that they are not exactly the same as the length of the workpiece being processed. wood detail, but slightly larger.
In addition, it is important to design the lower plane in such a way that during the processing of the part it moves immediately parallel to the machine knives. If this plane starts under the electric planer, it will be very difficult to achieve maximum accuracy in processing the part during operation.
Safe work on a homemade machine
Having converted such a hand-held power tool into a thickness gauge with your own hands, you should also remember about safety in the process of using it. To get the job done on the new home machine the most effective and completely eliminate the possibility of getting certain injuries, you should follow these rules when performing certain work:
- when processing any part, it is necessary to use eye protection;
- when working with rough material, gloves should be used;
- starting work on homemade machine, should be checked for operability and reliable fixation of all its parts;
- the pins and knives of the machine must not have any cracks or any other defects;
- only clean blanks can be processed on a home-made machine, in which there are no nails or any other metal particles.
How to work on a homemade machine
Working with a DIY thicknesser is extremely easy. The pin of the machine is set to the desired distance from the edge of the part, set right size, the bar is fixed. After that, the machine tilts slightly away from itself, as a result of which the cutting part of the stud opens. Then it remains only to pull the tool towards you.
Woodworking involves repetitive physical work. To facilitate this process, you can make an electric planer with your own hands.
Many people enjoy working with wood. This is not surprising, because it's nice to do it yourself wooden table for a veranda, build a bench for your own garden, or simply replace leaky boards. Any person, even a beginner, can process wood using this mechanical tool.
This electrical device is designed to reduce the thickness of wood blanks, plan, adjust, process boards on a frame, bevel edges and create long grooves in products. various forms. All this refers to one type of work - planing. An electric planer is not suitable for processing a large area, but with small volumes, the tool will greatly simplify the work of any master.
The design of the electric planer
Items needed for correct assembly designs:
- screws;
- bearings;
- V-belt pulley;
- steel corner;
- protective cover;
- spring washers;
- electric motor;
- steel strips;
- staples;
- switch;
- electric drill with a circle for cutting small diameters;
device for welding; - knives;
- clamping plates.
An electric planer is used for processing wood up to 12 cm wide. The processing depth is 0.12 cm. The workpiece to be processed will rest on a plate with a hole for a knife-type shaft. The guiding elbow is attached to the base plate with several M8 screws with plastic heads. This element will not allow lateral displacement of the workpiece during processing.
The bearing supports of the knife-type rotating shaft will be attached to the plate from below; M6 screws with countersunk caps must be used as fasteners. Outside the plate, a V-belt pulley will need to be mounted on the end of the knife-type shaft to support it. The plate is fixed with 10 screws to the body of the tool being made, which is welded from a steel corner with dimensions of 20x20x3 mm.
To protect your hands from the blade of the planer, you will need a protective cover.
The protective cover is fastened to the body with several M6 screws with cylinder heads. In this case, you will also need to use spring washers. The electric motor of the manufactured fixture is located inside the case; for fastening, you will need to use two supports made of steel strips. They have several holes with a diameter of approximately 6.5 mm, which are intended for mounting on the tool body. The elements are provided with several grooves that provide mounting and adjustment of the placement of the electric motor to tension the belt.
The electric motor of the device is controlled by a remote control, which is located on the front of the case. Under brace U-shaped inside the console, you will need to place several phase-shifting capacitors, which must be fixed in parallel. The capacitance of these elements is 4 microfarads. The switch is mounted on the outside of the console. From direct contact with dust and chips, the electric motor can be protected with a special casing.
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The sequence of actions for assembling the tool
The first step is to make a plate for the support. The most time-consuming process is the execution of a figured slot in the plate, which is intended for the exit of knives. In this case, you need to use electric drill with a circle for cutting a small diameter or make holes along the contour, and then process the slot with a file. After preparing the holes for fasteners in the base plate, you will need to make threaded holes through them in the corners of the body of the electric planer.
Knives for an electric plane are attached to the top of the rotating drum of the tool.
Before welding, you will need to attach the upper corners to the support plate with 10 screws, after which you need to attach the remaining corners of the body by welding. Next, the support plate must be dismantled, the body is finally welded along the contour, then the welding seams are cleaned. Especially carefully it is necessary to clean the plane in which the body is adjacent to the plate. It is not allowed to leave gaps, as they can provoke vibrations during the operation of the electric planer. This must be taken into account.
After assembly is completed, the knife-type shaft will rotate counter-clockwise - towards the feed, as viewed from the console. The direction must be precisely towards the feed, since the V-belt pulley cannot move in the other direction. Before starting work, the tool body must be fixed without cracks. M6 screws should be used for fixing.
The knife-type shaft for making grooves must be equipped with several knives that are 12 cm wide.
WITH reverse side shaft, you will need to install a counterweight so that it is possible to eliminate imbalance and vibration.
Each knife is fixed with clamping plates and M8 screws, which are screwed into the threaded through holes of the knife-type scrolling shaft.
For knives, a suitable workpiece is a worked-out saw blade for metal with a thickness of about 3 mm. The angle of sharpening the edge for cutting knives should be within 35-40 °. In the process of curly sharpening, it will be possible to obtain a relief base for artistic frames or platbands.
Profile laths of small thickness can be harvested by performing a longitudinal cut of a board of greater thickness. When working with knives of small width, it is not allowed to machine grooves with a depth of less than 8 mm, since the tool has insufficient strength.
