Do-it-yourself ovens in the bath. Metal stove for a bath: drawings and manufacturing tips. How to overlay a steel structure with hollow bricks: building a combined furnace

Currently, there are many metal sauna stoves on the market, but they are all expensive. If you have good experience in metal welding, then you can make an iron stove in a bath with your own hands. In this article, we will describe in detail, attaching appropriate photos, how to do this, having our own dimensions and drawings.

Differences between metal stoves for baths and saunas

Steam rooms in the bath and sauna are significantly different from each other. The sauna is accompanied by a high temperature - over 85 ºС. Such indicators make it impossible to greatly increase the humidity as well, since skin burns are inevitable. At the same time, the broom crumbles under such conditions in just 5 minutes. Therefore, the humidity is adjusted to 5-15%. The Russian bath is characterized by a temperature in the region of 55-65 ºС, which makes it possible to raise the relative humidity to 50-60%.

To create certain conditions in the steam room, different stoves are used, and different approaches to their installation are also used. If a sauna is being equipped, then it will be necessary to observe the maximum contact area of the furnace body with air and ensure rapid circulation of air flows along the walls.

It all comes down to heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. A small open heater, located above the firebox, is able to heat the stones up to 200-250 ºС. It allows you to get a little steam - as a rule, this is enough for a sauna, because you need to achieve only 15% humidity.

In the Russian bath, a different microclimate is created - low temperatures are reached, and a lot of steam is produced. At the same time, it should consist of very small droplets heated to 130-150 ºС - such steam is called “dry”. Such a microclimate gives the body lightness and strength. "Dry" steam can only be obtained by heating stones to values of more than 500 ºС. To achieve such indicators, the stones are placed in a furnace, that is, in a closed heater.

Do-it-yourself stoves for a Russian bath

The most important thing when making do-it-yourself metal sauna stoves according to the drawings is to take into account that it is impossible to maintain the desired temperature within 60-65 ºС with heated metal walls (read: “Drawings of a metal sauna stove - we build a stove with our own hands”). You will definitely have to reheat, which is accompanied by the emission of strong IR waves, in which it is quite difficult to be near the stove.

There are two ways to solve this problem:

Make a furnace lining. The process consists in lining the firebox from the inside with refractory bricks. It is enough to lay on the edge, while the thickness of the lining will be 6 cm, although narrow fireclay, 3 cm thick, is also found. Be that as it may, the heating of the steel walls is insignificant, the heater warms up most of all. Therefore, you should immediately design the firebox so that it is of increased size, because most of its volume is allocated to the lining. The disadvantage of this method is that hot smoke is produced as a result, which reduces fire safety. It is best to cool it by installing a tank or heater on a pipe. A little more difficult is to install a heating shield, passing through which the smoke cools down to 80-120 ºС.
Install brick screen around the iron stove for the bath. It is assembled from ceramic bricks, while windows are left in the wall for mounting doors, which will allow in the future to control the level of air heating. It can be concluded that this option is the best because of the possibility of temperature control, however, it is less practical, since the back wall overheats very much, so it is necessary to include heat-resistant steel in the design. In this case, it turns out that for a longer service life of an iron sauna stove, you need to choose a rather thick metal. As practice shows, it is better to install it in the upper and lower parts of the firebox.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the seams. A home-made iron stove in the bath quite often begins to burn out precisely from low-quality seams. In production conditions, this problem is solved using a bent structure. On top of the oven, they try to minimize the number of seams.

When making a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, it will be practically impossible for you to bend 6-10 mm steel, therefore, as a rule, it remains to make extremely high-quality seams.

What is the size of the stove and where is it better to put it?

The required volume of stones is determined by the size of the steam room and the quality of the insulation. The value, as a rule, varies from 20 to 40 kg per 1 cubic meter of the room. Naturally, the more of them, the easier it is to generate the required volume of steam.

Due to the fact that different stones differ in density, with the same mass they will occupy a different volume. It was determined that for a steam room with a volume of 12-14 m 3, it will be necessary to install a heater 30×40×30 cm. These dimensions can be slightly adjusted in different situations.

When making a metal sauna stove with your own hands, you will need to choose the individual volume of the heater, based on the size of the stove. In order to avoid mistakes, it is better to build on the finished drawings. When using the experimental approach, it should be taken into account that the volume of the furnace should exceed that of the heater by approximately 30-50%.

Before you build a stove in a bath, you should calculate the best location of the heater in the firebox. From practice, it became clear that it is best to place it on top, near the back wall, where the temperature is highest.

It is worth remembering that the heater will need to be serviced, and it should be equipped so that water can be supplied there. The hatch is best positioned so that it is possible to easily reach the farthest edge with your hand, and so that water can be supplied without the possibility of getting burned.

As a rule, tubes are added to the heater, divorced inside the container, which would reach all the stones. From the water supply side, the tube is equipped with a funnel. After diluting the pipes, they are lined with stones. After water is supplied through the pipes, it hits the stones in the heater and turns into steam.

Drawings of homemade steel sauna stoves

Consider the version of the furnace, which will be relevant for a steam room with a volume of 2 × 3 × 2.3 m. Steel sheets 3 mm thick are used for its construction.

To start the combustion process, the design provides for an additional air duct, which originates from the street. To prevent the steel from bending during heating, stiffening ribs in the form of corners are attached to the sides at the top of the firebox.

Consider another scheme by which you can make metal bath stoves with your own hands. These are models with air intake from the top of the firebox. They are also called furnaces with afterburning gases. On the back wall, a steel platinum is welded to it. Air enters the furnace from under the grate, and is supplied through the air ducts going into the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace.

Such an interesting design copes with two tasks at the same time: it cools the back wall, preventing it from burning out, and also the air is already warmed up to the upper part, where very hot gases are concentrated in the form of smoke. 80% of their volume are combustible.

After mixing with air, they ignite, which leads to an increase in the temperature in the furnace and heating of the stones to higher rates. If at the same time dry firewood is used as fuel, then they will be required much less. Many long-burning stoves have been built on this principle of operation, but it has only recently been used for sauna stoves. There is also a similar model without afterburning. Having studied her drawing, you can better understand the proportions and placement of different elements.

This design involves the construction of a furnace with a volume of 30% more than the heater. The ratio can be considered acceptable. The chimney is located offset back, which sometimes causes difficulties in installing it - the ceiling beam may interfere with it. In this case, it may be necessary to bend the chimney, which is not welcome.

In addition, before you make a stove for a bath, you should decide whether you need a steam tank for heating water. Some adjust the humidity level by opening and closing the tank lid. Other experts claim that heavy steam is produced in this way, so they advise installing a tank in the washing room, and heating the water is done by means of a heat exchanger built into the furnace, connected by pipes to the tank.

Now consider the scheme of a metal furnace with a water tank. The design is considered quite well-designed. Thanks to the spark arrester, the smoke travels a slightly longer distance, thereby warming up the walls of the firebox better. Instead of a tank, of course, you can lay stones.

It is worth considering the option of installing a tank at the back of the furnace. The chimney is shifted back, passing through the tank. Due to the large height of the tank, there will be effective heat transfer, therefore, the chimney will not overheat when leaving it.

The heater has a design that assumes its small size, which is quite enough for small steam rooms. It has a lid, but due to the location, it can be difficult to close it after water has been supplied. But this design is easier to maintain.

Making a sauna stove

The main task of the furnaces is to bring the temperature to the desired indicators as quickly as possible and keep it at that level. To speed up this process, fans are used, which, blowing the walls, accelerate the heating.

For these purposes, the casing-convector is also intended. The gap between it and the furnace wall should be 1.5-2 cm. Air is sucked through the gap, which warms up during movement, while the walls cool down.

To make the stove in the bath with your own hands as high quality and practical as possible, its body is made of thick metal, and the casing is made of thin, because it is not subject to overheating.

When placing the heater above the firebox, ventilation holes can be made in the casing. In this case, the proportion of air rising along the walls will be directed to the heater, blowing over the stones and increasing their temperature. This ventilated heater is great for saunas.

Schemes and drawings of furnaces

Sauna stoves have a slightly simplified design. The dimensions of the metal stove for the bath, and the firebox itself, should be sufficient for laying large logs. On top of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which, as a rule, is from 20 to 25 liters. The ratio in size can be different, there are no specific rules for this.

To make a metal stove for a bath as correct as possible, you should not install a tank for heating water. Otherwise, you will not be able to control the level of humidity in the sauna, which in extreme temperatures can lead to burns.

There is another option - to install a heater inside the firebox. A lid can be provided, while such an oven can have two modes of operation: with an open lid - so that the steaming process is dry, and with a closed lid - to generate a larger volume of steam.

How to make a sauna stove: do-it-yourself metal sauna stove, metal stove, drawings, how to make iron, how to build, dimensions of iron sauna stoves, photos and videos

Metal sauna stove: manufacturing instructions

To date, there are many designs of metal stoves: wood, electric and gas. Wood-burning appliances require a lot of fuel, careful maintenance, but they give a "live" fire. Electrical devices are housings equipped with heating elements and heat insulators. Gas ovens are the most modern and reliable, have thermostats for power adjustment and protective devices, triggered by the attenuation of the gas.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal stoves for a bath

Metal stoves for baths have significant advantages over other heating structures:

The small dimensions and mobility of the metal stove make it indispensable for small baths.

The disadvantages of metal furnaces are:

Rapid cooling associated with the oven's inability to retain heat. Continuous fuel combustion is required.

Material for a metal furnace in a bath

For the manufacture of the stove, metal with a thickness of more than 5 mm is used, with a smaller value, the device will not last more than 5-7 years. Reputable stove manufacturers offer products in 10mm steel for fireboxes and slightly thinner for water tanks and stone bins.

The design of the stove-heater made of metal for a bath

A metal sauna stove consists of three main parts, such as a fuel combustion chamber, a stone hopper, and a water heating tank.

The combustion chamber. Here is the process of burning firewood. To control it, the doors of the firebox and blower are used. The latter serves to supply air to the furnace. Removal of combustion products from the furnace is carried out through an ash pan - a metal grate. From the firebox, the heat from burning firewood rises to the bunker with stones.

If the design of a metal stove for a bath is clear to you, we proceed to the process of its manufacture.

Making a stove-heater for a bath from a metal pipe

We will make the stove from a pipe with a diameter of 700 mm, its height will be 1600 mm. For work, we need: a steel sheet with dimensions of 2200x1000 mm and a thickness of 10 mm, a metal pipe 1600 mm long with a wall thickness of 7-10 mm, a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a wall thickness of 5 mm, a metal rod t. 10 mm, a cast-iron grate (from the store), door hinges - 8 pcs, hecks - 3 pcs, drain valve for the tank, tape measure, construction level, grinder, metal scissors, welding machine.

We cut the pipe into two parts: one of them is 0.9 m long, the other is 0.7 m.

The procedure for installing a metal stove in a bath

Measures for the installation of a bath stove begin at the stage of erection of the entire building - a foundation is laid for installing the device with a slight deepening. It is laid with two rows of bricks, and a stove is placed on it.

The minimum distance between the wall and the stove is assumed to be at least 1 m. In addition, a device additional protection in the form of thermal insulation of the wall with foil with a layer of insulation. This will prevent overheating of the wooden wall and its ignition.

After the installation of the furnace is completed, it can be lined with bricks on clay mortar. This will improve the appearance of the apparatus and save people from the possibility of burns. The stove with lining can be placed closer to the wall.

We hope that the above will convince you that making a metal stove for a bath is not so difficult. If you have metal cutting and welding skills, you will be able to simple drawing make a homemade oven that will be no worse than purchased.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

Homemade metal stoves for baths have always competed with their brick counterparts. This is due to the rapid heating and simple installation of such units. With instructions for making

We assemble a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

A lot of do-it-yourself metal sauna stove designs have already been made and invented, but the topic has not been fully disclosed and is still relevant. With your own hands, metal bath stoves can be made from improvised metal materials, you only need desire and a little time.

Do-it-yourself metal stoves for a bath

After reviewing this article and observing the technology, as well as adding imagination, you can come up with something yourself. As a result, you will not only have a great steam bath, but also surprise your neighbors and friends with unique solutions. Let's talk about some in more detail. We will figure out how a metal furnace can be made, what its dimensions and device should be, and we will also tell you how to prepare the base (foundation) in order to install the assembled structure.

Stove with stone grate and hot water

What do you need to work?

If a metal stove for a bath is being built with your own hands, then you first need to draw up a project, determining the dimensions of the unit, and also prepare everything you need.

Tool

Welding machine.
Electrodes with a diameter of 3-4.
Bulgarian.

Material metal

If a homemade stove for a bath is made from a pipe, you will need:

Wheel disks - 4 pcs.
Pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
Sheet iron 2-3 mm thick.
Armature iron with a diameter of 8-10 mm or a rod.

Building material

Brick - 300-350 pcs.
Cement - 2-3 bags of 50 kg.
Crushed stone, sand - 0.1 cu.

Please note: thrust is created by rarefaction, i.e. rarefied cold air draws warm air. Warm air, in turn, tends to rise under the action of the Archimedean force. The draft depends on the weather: in summer the air is warm and humid - naturally, the draft is less, in winter it is the other way around. The thrust also depends on the diameter of the pipe.

Drawing of the heater stove

If the pipe is thin, then gases and warm air will be slowed down by friction against the walls of the pipe and will not have time to leave the chimney. As a result, it creates smoke plug and the smoke follows the path of least resistance, i.e. into the room.

Therefore, when making a metal bath stove with your own hands, always follow the principles of pressure, draft, correctly choosing the dimensions of the chimney and firebox. If the pipe is wide- smoke and gases will slowly rise up, the draft will be poor and the pipe will be very clogged, it will have to be cleaned very often. Since everything will settle on the walls of the pipe, the normal speed when exiting the pipe is 5-8 m/s.

For the first time, the Romans began to use chimneys (3-8 centuries BC) - famous Roman baths.

Works on the construction of the furnace

So, let's start building a metal bath stove with our own hands. First of all, you need to prepare the foundation, that is, the foundation on which it is planned to install the structure. Despite the fact that the iron stove for a bath from a pipe weighs a little, it is necessary to prepare the foundation for it. It is very important that the iron stove is installed on a level foundation.

We build the foundation

For the foundation for the furnace, we knock down the formwork, its dimensions are 1x1 m, height 20 cm.
We reinforce the future foundation in one layer, laying reinforcement along and across squares 20x20 cm. We connect the fittings at the junctions with each other with a knitting wire. It should not lie on the ground, for this we drive it into the ground along the edges of the lattice 4 pieces of rebar and tie a grate to them on weight. Before you start pouring the foundation, make sure that the grate is in the middle.
After pouring, we maintain the foundation about 2 weeks, we open all the doors and windows in the bath for better ventilation and lay wet rags on the flooded foundation. This is done so that cracks do not form during drying. We wet the rags for 2 weeks.

Preparing and assembling the oven

An iron furnace is assembled like this:

Take the back rim from the wheel, we weld all the holes, except for the one in the middle.
We take the next rim, cut off the convex top, insert the first rim into the second and weld. There should be no holes and cracks, the device must be airtight, after welding we beat off the slag and check the weld, if we haven’t welded it somewhere, we weld it, check it again, having beaten off the slag.

Moments of assembling a stove for a bath

Assembly of parts of the 2nd stage of the furnace

Let's make a small digression here. If you already have a dressing room, then before installing a new stove, you will have to cut a square hole in the wall, because the stove will start from there - these are the doors of the blower and firebox, everything else is in the bath.

Drawing of the inside of the furnace

If you did not have a dressing room, then we will build it together with a sauna stove. The corner where the iron stove stands should be lined with a brick wall, this is done in order to fire safety, because inside the bath is always trimmed with wood.

So, we begin to make an oven, if there is no experience in oven matters or you have never laid a brick, then it is better to call a master who will lay down the oven for you according to all the rules. But if you want to try it yourself, which is not bad, then it's time to try it, and I'll tell you how to do it.

We lay out the base completely of brick, the second row we begin to lay out the ash pan (blower).

Ash pan, blower

After laying the oven should dry for at least 2 weeks, if it is flooded immediately, then microcracks will appear, which will violate the integrity of the furnace. We open all the blowers and entrances and exits so that the stove dries out. It is allowed to heat with small chips for a couple of hours. The stove is considered dry if the firebox door no moisture and the walls are dry. You can drive the oven to the full for maintenance, and the oven is ready for use.

Now let's look at the pipe, the figure shows finished look pipes, which is placed on the furnace folded by us.
At iron oven the heater is located right on the body itself, we have it on the pipe, and there is also a hot water tank.

The complete oven

Note that the design itself will heavy enough, so it can be divided into parts and assembled indoors. A do-it-yourself metal bath stove of an original design is ready. If there is already a finish inside - cover from welding even with roofing material, even with sheets of iron.

Attention. Let's not forget, when welding work indoors, for fire safety purposes, you need to have a bucket of water and a sprinkler. A spray bottle can be made from an ordinary one and a half liter plastic bottle by punching a hole in the lid. After welding, spray the seam and scale.

Top of the chimney (see Metal chimneys) we strengthen with two reinforcement for rigidity, welded to the pipe and fastened to one wall and to the other. For fastening to the wall, we use a corner or a plate welded to the reinforcement and drilled from both sides.
We drill a brick with a perforator with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, 5-6 cm deep and fasten it to the anchor, so we got stiffness angle and stable construction.

View in full: do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove with a grate for stones

Options for assembling a furnace of a different design

Do-it-yourself metal stoves for a bath come in different forms. Consider an oven made from pipe, its components and assembly scheme. At first glance, a pipe sauna stove has the simplest possible device, but it has its own tricks and design technology. At the beginning of the article, I indicated the principle of operation of the furnace, draft and chimney. In all cases, these principles must be used, otherwise the oven will not work.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove with built-in heater

With the independent implementation of the design and some original solutions, so that you get a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, be guided by them, and you will succeed. Do not forget that nothing is impossible for us, so we will dare, strive and surprise others, improving our skills. Then a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove built or just a stove will not be an unread book for you. The stove in the photo above is an easy option as the base is almost done - a piece of pipe with a diameter of 525 mm, a length of 650 mm.

From below we cut a hole 335 mm in length, 180 mm wide, this will be our grate, we weld rods or an iron strip, about 1 cm apart. Separately, we make a box of sheet iron 2-3 mm, in size:

We weld the box, clean the slag.

We weld the door to it and set aside the part for now. Let's deal with the 525 pipe, we need to cut out the plugs, sidewalls on both sides.

We have a pipe diameter of 525, divide by 2, we get 262.5 mm.
With the help of a compass, having measured 262.5, we draw 2 circles, although it can be easier. Attach our blank (pipe 525) to the sheet and simply circle it.

If you need to copy several parts, then you should always copy from the original, and not from their finished copies, since dimensional accuracy is lost. If you marked out a part and cut it out, then it is better to measure again and make another one than to copy from the finished one.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath with a large heater

For now, we will make the parts, but we will carry out the assembly in order. First, we will make the insides of the oven and assemble them inside the oven itself, we will alternately apply and boil all the other details.

Cut two holes at the top. One - for the chimney, round, with a diameter of 110 mm, stepping back from the edge of the 525 pipe to the middle (chimney 110 pipe) 100 mm. The other is square, for the heater, stepping back from the edge of the 525 pipe 215 mm, cut off the size along the 525 pipe 300 mm, across 250 mm. To keep the structure symmetrical, use the level(vertical, horizontal) or plumb line(vertical). For the cut hole, we prepare a niche for stones, cut out the details from a 5 mm iron sheet.

We weld all the details, make a square box, as shown, clean it from slag, coat the seams with plenty of kerosene and see if there are any smudges. We set aside the finished part of the furnace to the side.

A plumb line can be made from any heavy load (bolt, nut, stone, nail) and any rope, fishing line, thread. But the weight of the load must keep the ropes, fishing lines, threads taut. The rest will be done by gravity, a thread with a load hanging on it always shows the vertical in an ideal way, just like water shows the horizontal line.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath: drawings

Next step: we cut out a 4-5 mm partition for the furnace shaft from a sheet of iron (it separates the firebox from the chimney, thereby preventing rapid heat leakage into the chimney).

Partition for furnace shaft

As shown in the figure, we measure 180 mm from above and in fact, that is, what the size will be, we will find out only in the course of work. Measurement can be made using a tape measure and a level. We set the level, mark from the top 180 mm to the top of the level. For a note, I’ll tell you how to get by with improvised means, if there is no level and mark the horizontal line. We take a transparent glass vessel, it can be a glass, plastic bottle or any transparent, but solid enough object that has a base.

We mark the same distance from the bottom on the sides and put marks with a marker. Pour water according to the marks - and here level ready. We put it on the surface we need: the water should be at the level with the marks, then we will have a horizon level.

Set the level, not forgetting about the size of 180 mm, it must be observed, we press the level to the pipe so that it does not walk with you, and we put marks inside the edges, with a marker or chalk. We perform the same procedure on the other side.
We make a measurement label to label.
We draw a partition on a piece of metal and cut out.
We take a niche for stones, insert it into the prepared hole, make a couple of tacks on the side and turn the pipe over (the niche for stones should be at the bottom).
We insert the partition according to the marks made, if everything converges, then we begin to scald the partition, if not, we make notes where exactly it does not converge or interferes, pull out the partition, trim it with a grinder. If there are gaps - it's okay, it is brewed by electric welding.
We also scald a niche for stones.

So, do-it-yourself bath metal stove is the next stage of assembly. We have plugs or sidewalls. On one we make markings for the firebox door, retreating from the bottom of 50 mm, and cut it to the size of the door, which we have prepared in advance with one clarification: we make a hole along all edges less than 1 cm. If we have a door size of 220x320 mm, then we cut out a hole of 210x310 mm. And cut out another hole for cleaning the chimney 70x130 mm.

Do-it-yourself metal bath stoves with a tank for heating water

If the made metal stove in the bath with your own hands does not have a direct exit from the furnace to the chimney, but with shafts, then you should always make holes for cleaning the chimneys if you cannot get there. If this is not done, then ash deposits and small particles of ash and soot will soon reduce access to the chimney and the stove will begin to smoke. You will either have to cut through the window, or cut and weld the pipe constantly.

First we put the sidewall with the future door, scald outside. Through the window for the firebox we weld the partition with the sidewall. We will install the firebox door at the last moment. Now we weld the other sidewall, which we have without holes, we clean everything with a grinder.
We put the chimney in the cut hole, grab, take the level and measure the vertical from both sides not in parallel, but at an angle. To keep the chimney from being blocked. We scald everything, put an effort for the chimney below.
Next stage: put the ash pan- blew from below, closing the grate, and scald it.
AND assembly completion- we weld the doors to the firebox and to the hole for cleaning the chimney, the ash pan has a door. And weld the legs.

It remains to install the oven in its intended place. At the same time, the installation is carried out so that the heater is not located in the furnace, but outside, which makes it difficult to heat the stones. The stones will heat up much longer than usual, but the effect will still be. Stones for the stove are better to use maritime, they heat up faster, keep heat longer, and if they contain salt and iodine, they have a beneficial effect on the body. A very important detail. If you have made an iron stove for a bath with your own hands, then you need to install it so that the floor under the blower is tin or tiles, generally made of non-combustible material.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove: assembly

Step-by-step guide to assembling a stove for a bath with your own hands. Necessary materials and tools for the work. A detailed step-by-step description of the actions for

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

There are plenty of types of furnace equipment: someone prefers a brick heater built by a professional craftsman, and someone likes it designed with my own hands metal oven.

The latter option is economical, as it can be made from improvised materials with your own hands.

Unit advantages

The following main positive points with which the metal stove for the bath is endowed:

compactness, small parameters make it possible to install such a design even in a small room.
No need to build a special massive foundation. For such a stove, a lightweight type of base is also suitable. And this greatly simplifies the process of installing furnace equipment.
In a metal sauna stove, it is possible to maintain a constant combustion process, which allows you to keep the temperature at a given value throughout the entire sauna procedure.
An economical version of furnace equipment, the possibility of building a structure from existing materials.

Disadvantages of a metal sauna stove

Despite the presence of positive aspects, a metal stove for a bath has its own minuses :

cools down very quickly, as there is no property of accumulation of thermal energy. In order to maintain a high temperature in the bath, it is necessary to maintain a constant combustion process.
low heating capacity of a large room;
the need to provide special protection against a fire situation, since the fire safety of a metal structure is low. It is recommended to install additional hull skin.

Choosing a shape for a metal sauna stove

For many, such a parameter as the shape of the structure will seem insignificant. In fact, the configuration affects the performance of the equipment, the convenience of using it during operation. The furnace unit happens:

The last type is the most common and easy to use. With this configuration, the furnace has corner zones that are subject to minimal heat. That is why many believe that in a rectangular design, the shape, the frame of the furnace, is best preserved.

The shape of the furnace also affects the uniformity of heating of both the structure itself and the heated room. With the maximum heating of one element of the equipment, the heating of the other decreases. This, in turn, ensures uniform heating of the room, a stable balance of heat flows.

Proper heating of the structure affects its mechanical stability. So, a round or cylindrical furnace is characterized by a low degree of resistance to heat, therefore, denser walls are made for it. A rectangular oven is considered to be resistant to heat, as it has cold corners.

Do-it-yourself oven construction options

It can be said that metal sauna stoves already have a long history, therefore, for such a long period, craftsmen have developed and offered various types of performance.

The simplest option is a metal stove made of an iron barrel. To do this, the bottom and lid of the barrel are cut off, resulting in a cylinder. This cylinder, up to half, is loaded with bricks placed on edge. A grate is laid on top of them. The remaining half of the barrel is 2/3 filled with stones. After that, the chimney is removed and the lid is installed on the furnace. This method of making a furnace, although simple, is inconvenient to use.

For a small bath area, you can build a compact-sized stove using sheet steel. The inner surface of this design is laid out with bricks. The firebox, its walls are laid out in half a brick, the chimney - in one quarter. This type of oven is easy to manufacture and use. To warm up the room, you will need some fuel raw materials. Comfort temperature premises will be provided after a short period of time.

Manufacturing process

Whichever option is chosen, you will need to prepare the following material:

sheet steel, the thickness of which is not less than 8 mm;
a metal pipe with a wall thickness of 10 mm, a diameter of 50-60 cm;
rod 10 mm thick;
grate;
hecks and doors for the combustion chamber, heater and blower;
water tap;
two meters of pipe. Of these, 90 cm will go to the firebox, 60 cm to the tank, and 50 cm to the manufacture of secondary parts.

By the way, doors for structural elements can be made independently.

Concerning tools, then in the work we will use a grinder and a welding machine.

Option 1: furnace design with closed type heaters

In this type of structure, it is assumed closed view of the stove, therefore, in order to splash water to supply steam, you will need to open the door.

A design such as a metal stove for a do-it-yourself bath has the following steps:

we take a large piece of pipe, the diameter of which is at least 50 cm, and cut an opening in it for the blower. The size of the latter is 5x20 cm.
Inside the pipe, from the side of the opening, we weld fasteners for the grate, using any metal plate with lugs for this.
We turn to the arrangement of the firebox: we cut an opening of 25x20 cm, weld the fasteners for the heater rods. We will use rods, 1 cm in diameter, or specially sold grates for a round furnace.
On the opposite wall of the heater, we cut a hole through which steam is supplied.
We fill the heater with stones suitable for this type of construction. Talcochlorite, diabase have good properties, combined with a metal surface, flint, granite, mica-containing stones should be excluded.
In the lid for the furnace, we cut a hole for the chimney pipe and install it.

This completes the manufacturing process of the furnace structure. But still, the masters offer to improve the design by adding hot water tank .

To do this, take a piece of pipe, large diameter, and weld a water tap. We prepare the lid for the water tank: we take the lid of the desired size and cut it into 2 equal parts. In one part, we cut an opening for the chimney, and then weld it onto the tank. We will provide for the second part to be removable, so we weld hinges and a handle to it.

Option 2: stove with an open type of heater, constant heating

Having a metal sheet easy and simple to build such a unit. His the design is a pipe divided into two compartments using a grate. The upper compartment is a firebox, while the lower one acts as an ashpit-blower. Each compartment is equipped with a door through which fuel can be placed, air supplied, and combustion products removed.

In the far, muffled end of the pipe, we weld the chimney pipe, its diameter is 100 mm.

We weld a metal box on top of the cylindrical body, which is filled with stones. The curved elbow of the chimney allows for maximum heating of the stones, as this increases the contact surface of the hot pipe with the heater.

The described version of the furnace structure is also easy to perform in the form of a parallelepiped. In this case, sheets of metal, and not a pipe, will be needed for blanks.

As a rule, for such a stove, the presence of a hot water tank is assumed. In a rectangular oven ways to place the tank many, here are just a few:

can be done on either side;
attach on top;
perform a water jacket on several sides;
embed pipes for cold and hot water supply.

A convenient way to get hot water is to install a special heat exchange tank on the chimney pipe. You can make such a water heater yourself or buy a ready-made factory one, which has a pipe of a standard size and diameter. In the latter case, the tank cuts into the chimney, its vertical part above the furnace body, and pipes are connected to the supply and intake of water. Such a tank, with sufficient volume, can serve as a water reservoir or simply be a heat exchanger connected to the main water tank.

Option 3: open type metal oven with additional brick walls

This type of furnace equipment is complex in execution, but this is justified by the acquisition of the ability to accumulate heat.

Such a design is metal body with internal brickwork. At the same time, the requirements for the thickness of steel are reduced: you can take a sheet with a thickness of 2 mm. For brickwork, you will need fireclay refractory bricks, mortar. As a solution, a special ready-made dry mix for kiln works. It is mixed according to the requirements of the instructions for use.

A do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath has the following manufacturing technology:

Preparing the base: We weld legs and heel pads to it. This will make the furnace structure stable.

Scheme of a metal sauna stove with an additional brick wall

We lay out the first solid brick row on this base. For the rest of the rows, we adhere to the following parameters: near the firebox we put it in half a brick, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe chimney channels - a quarter.
When the blower chamber is ready, install cast iron grate , placing it between the firebox and the ash pan. To design openings for the loading window and the blower, you can use metal corners, 20 x 20 in size. It is important to monitor the evenness between ordinary seams.
Above the combustion chamber we lay wire mesh metal grill , whose diameter is 12 mm. We will then put stones on this grate.
When the masonry reaches the level of the heater, you need to leave it on the right or left opening We will load stones into it, take them out for cleaning, and also splash water into this window during the bathing procedure for vaporization.
flue channel it is desirable to make tortuous. This will ensure maximum heating of the entire furnace body and complete combustion of fuel resources. In the place where the pipe turns up, from the back, we create an inspection window. We mount a valve in it, which allows you to keep warm for a long time after the end of the furnace process.
The top two rows of bricks are laid solid, leaving opening for chimney pipe through which combustion products will be removed.
After we have finished the brickwork, we give the mortar time to set and dry. After that, we proceed to welding the walls of the metal case. In our situation, this body resembles a kind of case. Corner, 20 x 20, launched at the joints, makes it possible to facilitate welding work, to make the seams airtight.
Making a workpiece front wall , do not forget to cut openings for the ash pan and the furnace loading chamber. We install the front wall in place, weld the hinges for the doors. We make the door leafs wider by 10 mm on each side than the prepared openings - this will ensure tightness when closing. You can lay an asbestos seal around the perimeter of the door or along its entire inner surface.
In the side wall blank, we also provide an opening for prepared in brickwork steam generation windows . For this, we install a metal door with sealing material. It is desirable to make it open down, put a cold handle for opening during the bath procedure, when there is a need for steam.
On the lid for the oven cut out flue pipe hole , the field of which we weld the cover into place. Next, install chimney channel and boil it.
We install a metal stove for a bath with our own hands at the chosen place and load it with stones.

Rules for installing a bath metal furnace

install a metal sauna stove with your own hands at a distance of at least 1 meter from the walls of the bath;
the structure must be located in close proximity to the chimney;
execution of a special foundation, a base made of refractory materials for placing the furnace;
the wall of the room, near which there is a metal stove for a bath, should be finished with sheet refractory material.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath: photo drawings

Bath stove made of metal: advantages and disadvantages, drawings, photos, 3 options for making a metal unit with your own hands. Video instruction.

Having your own bathhouse is probably one of the common desires of people. But as you know, the main element of this institution is the oven, which will be discussed in this article. How to make and install a stove for constant and periodic heating in small baths? What are the advantages of stone masonry? What are the basic requirements for the manufacture of a heater for a bath with your own hands? Look for answers to these and many other questions further in the article.

Types of stoves for a bath

A truly good bath is one that has a high degree of heat, and this cannot be achieved without a good stove. So, bath heaters are of several types, the main ones are indicated in the table.

Types of stoves for a bath
Electrical	Electric steam ovens have whole line benefits. This includes high thermal conductivity, affordable price, compactness of equipment, etc. This type of heating equipment allows for the minimum time spent to create optimum temperature in the steam room.
Wood	The traditional option and, moreover, the most popular. Such structures are both metal and brick. The components of such heating appliances are: a chimney, an ash pan, a firebox and grates. Wood stoves are characterized by a high efficiency index.
Finnish	Finnish stoves can be electric or wooden structures, which, thanks to their attractive appearance, can decorate any bathhouse. Due to a well-thought-out device, such stoves allow warm air to circulate evenly throughout the steam room. One of the main advantages of Finnish stoves is their high fire resistance.
Cast iron	Cast iron stoves are considered to be significantly economical heating equipment for a bath, as they require minimal consumption of combustible materials. Such designs are of continuous and periodic action and are characterized by high heat resistance.

Having minimal building skills, each owner, having made efforts and purchased the necessary materials, will be able to equip bath room any type of stove.

Features and benefits of masonry heater

Kamenka is a type of sauna stove, which has a special compartment for placing stones. In turn, the stones gain heat during the combustion of fuel, water is heated and, as a result, steam is formed. The most popular today are metal and brick heaters, both of which have their pros and cons, which we will consider further.

So, brick heaters have the following advantages:

durability and practicality of the device;
the ability to heat large rooms, while retaining heat for a long time;
ease of installation process;
a decent level of fire safety (due to the presence of a metal base);
practicality of operation, etc.

Along with the above advantages, brick heaters also have their drawbacks: they are heavy, require intensive cleaning, long-term heating (more than 5 hours) is required for productivity, etc.

Metal heaters are considered an equally popular heating option. They are characterized by the following features:

differ in small dimensions;
have a compact design;
multifunctional and ergonomic;
quickly gain temperature and hold it for a long time.

All heaters are divided into two groups: open and closed. Open ovens allow the use of stones for vaporization, you can pour water on them. Such steam is not harmful to people, it turns out dry and does not burn the body. In closed structures, stones fit inside, they can also be poured with water, but for this you need to open the stove doors. The second type of stove retains heat much longer than the first.

As for the peculiarities of laying the heater, certain skills and compliance with the instructions are required here. Here are a few tips to keep in mind at work:

a brick structure is best assembled on clay mortar;
the height of the department for stones should not exceed 7 brick rows;
it is necessary to correctly place the ash pan, blower, and chimney so that the steam room warms up as quickly as possible;
when making design calculations, remember that the lower the stones are located in the stove, the more productive the source of vaporization.

Features of the metal furnace

Metal furnaces for baths are used quite often: the material heats up quickly, quickly gives off heat, and besides, the structures themselves are light and small. However, such heaters cool down quickly and require a huge amount of solid fuel (wood). Many models of metal furnaces have a standard set of structural parts. Due to the presence of grates in such devices, it is virtually impossible to regulate the combustion process, so it is not possible to control (reduce, add degrees as needed) the temperature. Practitioners offer options for improving metal stoves for baths. To do this, the structure must be deprived of grates and the firewood must burn directly on the base, and in the meantime, holes must be made in the doors for the blower, which will allow you to regulate the amount of air entering the furnace. The stages and features of the manufacture of metal furnaces with their own hands will be discussed later in the article.

Do-it-yourself metal furnace manufacturing steps

To make a metal stove for a bath with their own hands, amateur craftsmen should do the work in several stages.

Stage 1. Prepare a project with drawings, indicating all the necessary measurements of the parts and their specific position.

Stage 2. Prepare the necessary tools and material. Integral elements in the workflow will be: a welding machine, a grinder, a tape measure, a chimney, etc.

Stage 3. This stage can be called preparatory, since it is required to mark and clean up the territory for future construction.

Stage 4. A vessel for water is being made. The tank has a hole for a faucet to replace the water.

Stage 5. A firebox, a heater and a blower are created. It is necessary to install the grate above the blower.

Stage 6. We are working on the foundation for the furnace. It is best to make a brick base. Brickwork on the mortar must be done in two rows, this will be quite enough.

It is worth noting that metal furnaces can be of various shapes: figured, horizontal, rectangular, vertical. Rectangular structures are considered the most convenient to use. This form of heater contributes to uniform heating of the room and maintains the heat balance in the steam room.

How to build a brick oven with your own hands

Planning the erection brick oven for a do-it-yourself bath, you need to responsibly approach the issue of choosing the main material, on which the strength, reliability and productivity of the structure depend. Fireclay bricks are known for their excellent heat-resistant characteristics; along with it, red oven and ceramic bricks, etc. are used.

Work on the construction of a brick sauna stove begins, as a rule, with pouring the foundation, which can be of various types (stone, rubble, etc.). Classic option is a concrete base, which should be supplemented with waterproofing layers of roofing felt or roofing felt.

Having started laying the furnace, it is important to constantly, in the process of work, check the horizontal rows for errors and the verticality of the corners of the structure for inaccuracies. A brick heater can be made both open and closed, in any case, this is painstaking work that must be done strictly according to the ordinal instructions. On the second row of masonry, holes are formed for the installation of a blower, most often it overlaps on the fourth row and is fixed in the structure. At the level of the blower door in the stove, grates will be installed, which rest just on the bricks of the previous laid row. When laying fireclay bricks in the future, it is worth paying attention to the presence of holes for supplying secondary air. Next, the furnace firebox is erected and a door is installed in it. Further work is in full swing on the creation of the heater. After the chimney is equipped, the valve is installed. A water tank is installed, taps are adjusted, etc.

The above types of bricks are used in laying the stove on different stages regarding their physical properties, which will be discussed in more detail in the next chapter of the article.

How to calculate the material, make a drawing for the manufacture of a brick oven with your own hands

So, as it turned out earlier, for work we need fireclay (heat-resistant) and ordinary bricks. It is not recommended to lay out the entire structure only from fireclay material, since such a furnace will not last long and will collapse. This type is best used for laying the internal environment of heating equipment. How to correctly and at what stages to alternate a brick should be indicated in the drawings. For inexperienced craftsmen, a huge number of already proven projects for creating this format of sauna stoves are presented on the Internet.

When creating a drawing yourself, you should pay attention to such points:

doors for the firebox should be located opposite the entrance to the bath room;
the foundation for the furnace must be more than 20 cm high;
creating a design project, it is necessary to note the rows that are erected without mortar.

Drawings from professionals posted on some construction sites imply the presence of ready-made figures, calculations, the required amount of materials. In general, we can say that all consumables for the construction of a brick oven depend on its dimensions and the presence of additional equipment in it.

Furnaces of constant and periodic heating for a small bath

According to the principle of operation, sauna stoves are divided into devices for constant and periodic heating. Structures of the first type, as a rule, have thin walls and are suitable for loading a small amount of stones. The temperature in such heaters reaches 300 - 350 degrees. Such stoves can be heated in various ways from electricity to liquid fuel, but gas is not used for the benefit of the safety of users.

Intermittent devices, on the contrary, are characterized by thick masonry and the ability to use a large volume of stones. Such equipment has a high level of heat transfer. For heating such stoves, most often, firewood is used. In the lower section of intermittent structures, the temperature reaches 1100 degrees. Such indicators are able to completely destroy soot on the stones, so they always remain clean at the finish.

At home, metal stoves of constant heating are most often made; the thermal pressure of such structures is enough to provide small family baths. In addition, in recent years, combined devices have been assembled more and more often, which allow increasing the efficiency of heating equipment.

Choosing a place and installing a stove for a bath with your own hands

The exact place for installing the stove in the baths must be determined at the design stage. For each building, this is an individual territory, but still there are nuances the same for everyone:

you need to carefully study the location of the beams and roof slabs;
all parts of the furnace must be thermally insulated from wooden surfaces;
the firebox must be close to the access of air;
it is best to install the stove between the dressing room and the steam room.

Before installing the stove in the bath, the adjacent walls must be sheathed with a special protective material, for example, asbestos cardboard. Do not forget about waterproofing and processing of metal structures with special tools that are resistant to high temperatures. The distance from the wall to the heating equipment should be more than 26 cm. A properly placed stove in the bathhouse should not interfere with visitors, while there should be the most efficient ventilation in the room and a functionally equipped chimney.

For more information use the video:

About 25 years ago, doctors finally confirmed: the main secret of the Russian and Finnish baths was revealed, and the discovery turned out to be amazing. One of the consequences of the revival at a new level of interest in steam business is a do-it-yourself sauna stove. Firstly, the demand for bath stoves is still not fully satisfied, so factory-made products are quite expensive. Secondly, both the Russian bath and the sauna are complex hygienic and health-improving complexes, the heart of the bath is the stove, the whole bath is built around the stove, and in conditions of serial production, provide for everything possible combinations local conditions is not possible. Therefore, often, even if there are free funds, real connoisseurs first “figure out” a bathhouse in place, and then pick it up or even design a suitable stove for it. This is where this article is meant to help.

The secret of the steam room

And what is the very main secret of bath health? It turned out that short-term, up to 40 minutes, warming up the whole body to about 40 degrees:

Destroys cells with damaged DNA, i.e. capable of degenerating into cancer.
Accumulated slags are broken down into forms that are easily excreted from the body.
Suppresses a certain gene, the function of which was then not entirely clear. Now it is quite clear - this is the aging gene.

By the way, methods of treating cancer are based on the fact that cells with disorders are not as tenacious as healthy ones. From poisons (with chemotherapy) or radiation (with radiation), they die faster than healthy ones. In fact, the beneficial effects of a bath with a steam room are much wider, and its mechanism is more complicated. But for further understanding, this information is enough.

A little bit in passing

Russian banya is inextricably linked with Russian culture. In particular, many well-known Russian painters and sculptors paid tribute to the banya not only in the steam room, but also on canvas and in round sculpture. In the days of the moral code of the builder of communism, works of fine art of such content, of course, were not exhibited to the public, but lay in the storerooms of museums and galleries. The following selection of illustrations aims to fill this gap to some extent.

Sauna with a stove or stove in a bath?

Neither one nor the other. The parameters of the furnace and bath must be linked to each other. Therefore, let us first briefly consider what a bath is. In detail about the device of the bath, the conversation, of course, needs a separate and detailed one. We will only figure out what is essential for the design of a sauna stove.

Russian or Finnish?

There are more than enough disputes about how the Russian bath differs from the sauna. But everyone agrees on the main difference: the temperature and humidity regime. In a Russian bath - 50-70 degrees at relative humidity 20-65%; in the sauna - 70-100 degrees at 5-15% humidity. If we turn to physics, then a cubic meter of air in a Russian bath contains 50-80 g of water vapor, and in a sauna - 15-40 g / cu. m. The fact that the steam in the sauna is dry is well known. And from the point of view of medicine with biochemistry, there is also no fundamental difference: both there and there the skin is steamed and becomes permeable from the inside, which helps to remove toxins with sweat, bypassing the usual excretory pathways and not burdening the body. In the sauna, it is not forbidden to “give it with a whisk”, and in the Russian bath you can take a steam bath in a dry way. But the device of the bath itself and the sauna stove are somewhat different in design. Firstly, the Russian bath (see fig.), condo or modern, is a log house; in extreme cases - a box made of timber, lined with a townhouse from the inside. Bulges and depressions inside are necessary to better capture the infrared radiation of the furnace and draw in excess water vapor from the air.

The fact is that the absolute, in grams per cubic meter, humidity in a Russian bath is close to critical for a given temperature range. This accelerates the steaming of the skin and warming up the body throughout its volume, but also increases the risk of unpleasant and harmful heavy steam. The Finnish bath can be both log, and timber, and even frame. But it is necessary to bathe in it in a cap - it protects the hair follicles with sebaceous glands from drying out, which can lead to premature baldness or, conversely, to the appearance of thick and coarse hair-awns, especially on the eyebrows, and excessive hair growth in the nostrils and ears . In relation to the furnace, all of the above means the following: the sauna stove must first warm up the walls of the bath, and only then the air in it. Otherwise, even in the sauna, heavy steam may appear, which at such temperatures is very harmful.

How does someone soar

About 20 years ago, the then good friend of the author, a seasoned Ukrainian owner named Vasily and nicknamed Khakhluy among his own villagers, built himself a Russian bathhouse. The author, who had previously helped him in the construction of the Abyssinian well, was invited to take a steam bath. Melted, settled down. Vasya scooped up some dark brown liquid and pumped it up on the stove. Shibanulo, and - the author felt that he was flying to the moon. At first, he attributed this to a habit - before that he had not bathed for about 5 years. But from the second portion, it “led” the same way. Being already mentally prepared for the next volley, he determined by sensations: euphoria of clearly unnatural origin. - Vasya, what are you pouring on the stove? - That infusion of cannabis. - Vaska, what are you, poof at all? Not only is it a drug, but from such a dose the motor can become! - That yak is dope there ... and the heart of the maine kripke ... clean your eyes kindly ... But let's get back to the baths and sauna stoves.

Bath device

A bath can be either a cramped closet without a foundation, or a solid building, comparable in area to a city apartment. We will return to the second, because. only a brick oven is suitable for it, slowly giving off heat; with a small volume of the steam room, up to 30-35 cubic meters. m - cast iron. In a small one-room bathhouse, you can also put a stove welded from a steel sheet.

Both baths can be light - made of linden or birch, or heavy - made of oak. It is undesirable to build a bath from coniferous wood, as well as from maple, walnut, ash. This wood, when heated for years, especially in an atmosphere with a high content of water vapor, releases volatile substances that are not always useful. The sauna is not so critical to the material of the walls, it can be built even from seasoned pine. The “heaviness” of an oak bath is explained not by the severity of the wood, but by the presence of tannins in it. A heavy bath is not for women and children. And it serves for 5-8 years, then the tannins disappear. But for a strong man, who is able to run a kilometer without being out of breath and without feeling a beating heart, a heavy bath will only give strength and vigor.

Note: according to one version of the famous fairy tale, Alyosha Popovich went out to the Serpent Tugarin several times, but he was able to defeat him only after taking a good steam bath in a heavy bath.

What does this mean for the oven? First, the value of thermal power. If for a light bath enough 0.5 kW / cu. m of room volume for linden and 0.7 kW / cu. m for birch, then for an oak bath you need at least 1.2 kW / cu. m.

Note: the indicated values \u200b\u200bare valid for a ceiling height of 2.2-2.4 m. A ceiling above 2.5 m in a bath is generally undesirable.

Secondly, the weight of the stones for the heater. What stones are needed there, we'll talk below, and by weight you need 2.7 kg / cu. m, for birch 3.6-4 kg / cu. m, and for oak 6 kg / cu. m.

Safety

burns

In an atmosphere with a temperature of 50 degrees or more, almost any touch to a metal heated to or above it gives a second-degree burn, with a blister. Easily conductive heat metal quickly gives it to the steamed, intensively cooled by sweat glands skin. Nowadays, the problem of thermal safety of bath stoves has been solved: there is an inexpensive, poorly conductive, durable and resistant material on sale - basalt cardboard. A fire-fighting blind area is made from it, they cover the screens of furnaces such as potbelly stoves, etc. From basalt cardboard wooden racks you can make a fencing of the furnace, it is strong enough for this.

frenzy

In hot, humid air, there is a high probability of formation carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxides. Therefore, it is possible to “pump” into the furnace with a flow-through heater (see below) only after the end of the furnace and the removal of ash. Anyway furnace door it is advisable to bring stoves with a blower through the wall into the dressing room, insulating them from the partition in terms of heat with the same basalt cardboard if the stove is metal.

Fuel

Only good for a bath. It is the physical chemistry of wood burning, the subtleties of which cannot be considered here, that makes it possible to organize the heating of the room from the walls to the center. Coal quickly gives off the first heat - volatile components - and then the remaining carbon (pure carbon) smolders for a long time, which is good for heating, but in the bath it will give heavy steam. A full-fledged replacement for firewood "from the forest, of course" will be fuel pellets from sawdust or straw. They can be recognized by their size: these are poles or logs with a diameter of 30-70 mm. Pellets are also produced specifically for baths, but they are disproportionately expensive. In any case, a bag of pellets costs a little, and a test fire will show what this variety is good for. In terms of physical chemistry, gas with automatic control of the flame by external temperature sensors is also good for baths, but this design is not for do-it-yourselfers. Industrial gas ovens for baths are very expensive and not always reliable: gas fittings that provide 100% safety at an outside temperature of 60 degrees and above are not yet in production. The same applies to bath electric furnaces; Let's mention, the heating element is not even fuel, but still a heater.

Kamenka

Any wood-burning sauna stove is a stove-heater. This means that it has a heated container for stones. The stones work like a heat accumulator: they absorb the first heat, and then give it away with radiation; due to the weak permeability of the stone mass, the convection from the heater is not very strong. As a result, the furnace heats 2/3 or more of the heating time with infrared rays, which ensures that the walls, floor and ceiling are heated before the air and the furnace body itself. In relation to the times of heat transfer by radiation and convection, the opposite is true.

stones

Firstly, in order to comply with the above conditions, it is necessary that the ratio of heat capacity to thermal conductivity of stones be higher than that of brick, not to mention metal. This is provided by dense volcanic rocks: basalt, diabase, gabbro, soapstone. They can be recognized by their severity, dark color, and smooth or very fine-grained fracture.

Brecciated rocks: granite, diorite, syenite, labrador, etc. not suitable for thermal performance. Metamorphic rocks are completely unsuitable: limestone, dolomite, marble, shale. In addition to complete non-compliance with the requirements of heat engineering, when heated, they can also emit harmful organic matter, because. often contain bituminous components.

Note: beautiful veins in marble - this is precisely the bituminous inclusions in it.

Secondly, the stones for the heater should be more or less smooth surface and round shape. At the same time, the ratio of their surface to volume is the smallest (the smallest is for the ball), which ensures the desired mode of heat accumulation / heat transfer. In the old days, they began to build a bathhouse only after they had accumulated enough stock of rounded pebbles for the heater.

Stone laying

Equally important is the way the stones are laid. For a flow heater (see below), the largest, a fist or two in size, are placed at the bottom, then gradually reduced in size so that upper layer consisted of pebbles the size of a phalanx thumb. For a deaf heater, they are laid vice versa: a trifle, which provides the largest area of \u200b\u200bthermal contact, down, and large ones upstairs.

Flowing and blind heaters

A home-made sauna stove can be with a deaf or flowing heater. The deaf heater is separated from the furnace and/or flue gases by a solid partition and is open at the top. It can be pumped into it during the heating process, the stones never need to be sorted out, they remain clean. But, due to the small area of thermal contact with the firebox, the deaf heater heats up more slowly. This is especially true with an increase in the size of the furnace, when the area of contact of the pelvis with stones increases more slowly than the volume of stones. Therefore, a deaf heater can only be made in a metal furnace with a power of up to 25 kW, which will provide light steam in a one-room bath with a volume of up to 30-45 cubic meters. m. It is generally impossible to arrange a deaf heater in a brick oven, it will not warm up through a brick.

Note: the ceiling in a bath with a stove with a deaf heater should not be higher than 2.2 m. Otherwise, heavy steam is not excluded.

In a flow heater, the stones are placed in a casing on a grate above the firebox, and the flue gases pass through the stone mass before going into the chimney. A stove with a deaf heater is more difficult, because. a hermetically sealed loading and cleaning hatch is required in the casing of the heater. It is possible to heat such a stove only with firewood that does not give carbon deposits, for example, aspen, or pellets. It is possible to give steam only after complete, up to gray fluffy ash, heating. Stones periodically need to be removed, washed and cleaned. But on the other hand, the stone backfill warms up over the entire surface area of the stones that make it up, and very quickly. This removes any restrictions on the size of the furnace and its power. You can independently make a stove with a flowing heater with a power of up to 50-60 kW, for a bath of three compartments of 50-80 cubic meters. m.

Furnace material

Bath stoves are made of cast iron or welded from sheet metal. provides ideal warm-up mode and, when performed correctly, eliminates heavy steam in a bath of any size. But for its construction, full mastery of the art of the stove-maker is required., careful selection for quality and preparation of materials, because She works in difficult conditions. Only possible with flow heater, i.e. It is possible to give steam only after complete combustion of the fuel. The minimum heating time until the bath is ready is 3-4 hours. After long (more than 3-5 days) breaks in using the bath, it is necessary to dry and heat the furnace with accelerating furnaces, otherwise there is a high probability of microcracks appearing in the body of the furnace, especially dangerous in the bath as a source of waste. According to doctors, more than 70% of cases of burning people occur in the bath. As a result, the brick sauna stove is also very voracious. heats up quickly; a bath with it is ready to receive visitors within an hour and a half after kindling. Critical to the design; in case of unsuccessful execution of light steam, do not wait. Cools down also quickly; in order to properly take a steam bath with the whole family, the stove needs to be heated. This is not such a drawback, because. the metal does not crack, but without a fireclay brick lining, a welded furnace can only heat a one-room bathhouse up to 20-25 cubic meters. m volume. A furnace cast from cast iron, according to heat engineering, approaches a brick, because the thermal conductivity of cast iron is low, and the heat capacity is high. In terms of cost and ease of use - to welded. Most industrial sauna stoves are cast iron.

Choosing an oven

Which stove is best for a bath? Which one will you have to buy, and which one can you make yourself? It depends on the volume of the bath and the nature of its use. For a large bath for three or four compartments, which is described below, only a brick oven or a large cast iron iron of industrial manufacture, with a stone filling of 150-250 kg, is suitable. Such baths, as a rule, are collective for commercial purposes and are constantly heated. We will further consider the design of the furnace for it, but just as an example of complexity, although industrial conditions for its construction are not required.

Note: a brick stove with a flowing heater is suitable for both a Russian bath and a sauna. In the latter case, they simply heat it more strongly and do not splash anything into the heater.

For a private bath, heated once or twice a week, but designed for a family with in-law relatives and also a multi-room, but smaller area, a factory-made cast-iron stove would be the best option. There are many models on sale, of different capacities and price categories; we will touch on them. All of them allow underflooding when washing, and many are equipped with a hot water circuit. And, finally, for a summer cottage or a small individual bath, for a family of 3-4 people, with one or two compartments, one of the home-made steel stoves described below is quite suitable. Which of them is more suitable for which bath is indicated in the description.

Everything big, real

Bath

Let's decide first what kind of bath we can build. If the hut is up to about 3x4 m or an extension to the house of the same size, this section can be skipped, except, perhaps, for information about the construction of beds and bath equipment. Although this is already known to everyone. Here we will describe the bath, arranged, as they say, according to the full scheme. Her plan is shown in Fig. on right. Designations:

Capital (bearing) wall;
Light wooden partition;
dressing room;
washing department;
steam room;
Lying, it may not be, but in return - bridges to the reservoir;
Sauna stove with a deaf heater;
Furnace firebox;
Kamenka;
Chimney;
The foundation of the furnace (flooring is conventionally not shown);
Sand bedding;
Double entrance door;
Ordinary single door;
Fiber window, approximately 400 mm wide and 250 mm high. It is necessary that, if necessary, quickly release excess heat without chilling the compartment;
Ordinary swing window;
Water heating register (water heater);
Hot water storage tank suspended from the ceiling;
Steam room inventory: tub with hot water, ladle, brooms. Gangs, benches, soap, washcloths - in the washing room (4);
Polaty;
Tub with cold water.

We will give the necessary explanations. About what the walls of the bath should be, it has already been said. By paragraph 7 - it is understood that a cast iron stove for a Russian bath is installed. The disadvantages of a deaf heater in it do not affect how the heater works and the cast iron of the stove itself. And give at any time to the heater, which will immediately warm up again, where it is more convenient. To item 9. The furnace on the foundation should be located so that the projection of its center of gravity (and not the center of the chimney, as is often incorrectly written) falls on the geometric center of the foundation. Otherwise, the furnace may warp due to the heating of the soil under other conditions of its stability. To item 10. The device of the chimney is shown in the figure, which shows the sectional view of the bath. Fire safety for a bath is vital, and factory stoves, as a rule, are not equipped with chimney elements and materials, with the exception of its lower knee with a gate. This must be taken into account when drawing up an estimate for the bath.

To pp. 11 and 12. The design of the furnace foundation is shown in fig. below. Its foundation must be necessarily separate and not in any way in contact with the foundation of the building. Sand filling is also mandatory; without it, the stability of the furnace cannot be achieved. Fire-resistant blind area (dark blue in the figure) - from basalt cardboard.

Note 6: for cast iron oven with a power of up to 20 kW, a simplified foundation is possible from ready-made reinforced concrete monoliths laid directly on the ground.

To pp. 17 and 18. There are many designs of homemade stoves with a built-in hot water tank. They all have a common vice: the water in the tank boils before the heater warms up. Keeping the tank empty and running hot water into it is then dangerous: from the instant release of a large amount of steam, the stove can simply explode. It is also impossible to make a safety valve in the tank or open its plug: the uncontrolled flow of water vapor into the room will give heavy steam. Therefore, the only acceptable solution is a U- or W-shaped hot water register in the firebox in combination with a storage tank, see fig.:

However, if the bath is not used every day, then the heated water will cool in vain. Here again, the only acceptable solution is a bath in the form of an extension to the house, and in the tank, along with the baths, the branch pipes of the kitchen or heating furnace. Then the tank will be a common hot water storage tank for the entire household.

Note: factory furnaces with a correctly calculated hot water circuit, of course, this does not apply.

To pp. 19 and 20. The inventory for the steam room is wooden, see fig. Otherwise, burns cannot be avoided. Beds need two or three tiers, see next. rice. on the right. So each of the steamers can settle down according to their taste and health. It is not only a question of taste - you can put a stove of less power in the same bath and take a steam bath for several people. Very noticeable in terms of fuel costs.

And a brick oven

And if you want to make a bath completely in the old fashioned way? Or, let's say, several owners agreed to distribute expenses, bath days, hire a stove-maker, and jointly build a bath in general according to all the rules? Well, in order to know what you need to get in the end, and to control the quality of work - in fig. on the right is a brick stove for a bath. We will give the order below, but for now let's talk about materials and accessories:

All parts in contact with flames or flue gases - only fireclay bricks; in fig. (below) highlighted in yellow.
The seams between fireclay and ordinary brick, between any brick and metal - from 6 to 10 mm.
Halves and three-four bricks are ready-made, with smooth edges. Chopped or sawn by a grinder, they will go anywhere except for a sauna stove.
All doors and the grate are cast iron, others will not last long in the bath.
The grate of the heater is made of channels; best of all - pieces of used rail, i.e. forged in the cold wheels of a train or tram.
Masonry - medium fat with sand 1:1.
Sand - calcined, washed and sifted through a sieve with a mesh of 0.15-0.25 mm, ravine or mountain, with ribbed granules. River sand with rounded granules is not suitable for a sauna stove, it gives microcracks.
Facing - from the front, smooth and with rounded corners, brick. This will give optimal heat transfer in both convection and radiation modes.

The fat content of the solution is checked “on a stick”. Planed, wooden. Let's say a mop handle. They put it into the solution, mixed to the density of sour cream, take it out and look. A continuous layer of 1.5-2 mm should remain. If it runs off, leaving gaps, the clay is too thin. If bumps or lumps are visible, it is too oily. Now ready-made dry clay of any fat content is sold in construction stores. If they dug the clay themselves (this must be done from a depth of at least 1-1.5 m), and it is too greasy, then crushed brick can be added. Not sand! Brick is made from clay. But it is not the best option, and not because oily natural clay is a valuable raw material and it is not so easy to get it. It is much better, although more troublesome, to grease the skinny ravine clay. Then there will definitely not be any foreign particles in it that cause the same microcracks. Grease the clay by grinding:

Dry clay broken into small lumps is poured into a barrel for 1/4-1/3.
Fill to the top with water.
The mixer is “pounded” until a homogeneous slurry is obtained.
As soon as the top of the batch begins to lighten (this means that a precipitate has begun to fall), the upper third of the solution is drained.
When all the clay settles and is visible through the water, the rest of the water is drained, and the silt coating is removed from the “cap”.
Mix the masonry mortar and check for fat content as described.

As a rule, one extortion is enough. In the old days, stove-makers for wealthy customers laid sauna stoves precisely on labored clay. And now in industry, clay is fattened in a similar way.

Ordering and drying

The order of the furnace for the bath is shown in fig. on right. The principle of masonry -, i.e. dressing of seams is necessary only between rows, and in rows the seams can be untied. The first row is laid out dry on a sheet of metal laid on a foundation and covered with a sheet of basalt cardboard 4-6 mm thick. Seams between fireclay bricks - 3 mm. Undercutting the corners, where necessary, is done with a grinder with a stone circle No. 220-240. On the 22nd row, the filling of the heater is conditionally shown; here it ends. Backfilling is done after drying the furnace and accelerating furnaces. The oven is dried for at least 2 weeks at a temperature of 20-30 degrees, i.e. you need to build a furnace in the warm season. After drying, you need at least 4-5 accelerating furnaces with high-quality fuel (aspen wood or pellets), with an interval of 12 hours. Bookmark fuel for the first acceleration give 4-5 kg, and gradually increase to the maximum. With a break in the furnace for more than a week, you need one accelerating furnace by a third of the load, and after a month of inactivity - 2-3 with an increase in load from a quarter to full.

Video: brick sauna oven

We take care of the metal

Now let's try to choose a prototype for a welded homemade stove. Drawings of some well-proven designs are shown in fig.

Bath potbelly stove

This one differs from the well-known one by the presence of a tray for stones and the bottom of the firebox paved with dry, without mortar, fireclay bricks. On the arches on the sides of the heater (from 8-12 mm steel bar) they put a bucket or boiling water with water when kindling. It is not so much the stones that heat it, but the convection currents between the screen and the furnace body. This contributes to the creation of an optimal mode for warming up the bath, and a 20-liter decoction is heated in 30-40 minutes, covered with a lid, up to 50 degrees. It is enough for two and there will be more for a child. A screen for a sauna potbelly stove is even more necessary than for a heating one: the stone tray disrupts the circulation of hot gases in the furnace, and the stones take a lot of heat for themselves. It is undesirable to impose thermal insulation on the screen when the volume of the bath is close to the limit, it must effectively emit IR to the outside. Therefore, in this case, a fence must be made for the stove. A sauna stove is suitable for a very small bathhouse, up to 20 cubic meters. m volume. It does not need a foundation, it can simply stand on a layer of basalt cardboard. The height of the direct chimney is 4-5 m, the damper is not needed. The draft is regulated according to the season and the weather by a sliding damper made of a galvanized strip that covers part of the holes in the firebox door, but at least 2 should not overlap. Sauna potbelly stove can be drowned during washing. You can give no more than 0.25 liters at a time with an interval of at least 20 minutes, otherwise the heater will get cold and heavy steam will come out. Kvass in a small bath is more than enough.

Note: do not give bottled store-bought kvass. Instead of bread, the spirit is such that you can even endure the saints. Soon, probably, children will also be made from powdered concentrates.

Without brick

This is an all-welded 4-6 mm sheet sauna stove for a small size, also up to 20-25 cubic meters. m. The design is simple and clear from the figure, it heats the steam room quickly, which is good. But there is nowhere to attach a water heater, which is bad. On the hatch of the heater, a maximum of a bucket will heat up to 40 degrees in an hour. It is not necessary to screen this stove, but it is desirable to isolate it. Most of the heat goes into the stones anyway, the screen simply has nothing to reflect. Therefore, in such a simple stove, it was necessary and blew: there is no vortex in the furnace, and the efficiency, which is already low for sauna stoves, will come out completely unimportant. The grate is made of fittings welded along.

in a case

A brick oven in a metal case made of 3-4 mm steel is already suitable for a sauna, and for a Russian bath of 30-40 cubic meters, which it will heat up in 2 hours. Therefore, a U-shaped hot water register can be built into the smoke circulation, during which time it will give out into the accumulator of 40 liters of 50-degree water. Enough for three or four. The masonry is made of fireclay, the stove is without foundation. The screen is not needed for the reasons described above, but the fence is necessary - the temperature of the case is more than 100 degrees. Before washing and steaming, the oven must be completely heated; keeps warm for about an hour.

From the barrel

This stove is similar in properties to the all-welded sauna stove. It is just as difficult to put a water heater in it. But it is very simple in execution and therefore suitable for giving with a sauna-shed up to 15 cubic meters. You can heat it during washing / steaming, but you can’t press it in any way: for the sake of simplicity of design, a cleaning / loading hatch is not provided in the heater. Therefore, with frequent use, this stove will be short-lived. They make this stove like this: they put it right on the ground concrete slab, or a mini-ditch is poured with concrete. Then a cube is laid out from an ordinary red brick; at the top, fittings are embedded in the masonry, forming a grate of the heater. On this pedestal they pile metal barrel without bottoms and lined from the inside with fireclay on clay. You can simply coat the inside with a layer of very thick (plasticine consistency) fatty clay solution of 50-60 mm. Fireclay bricks will also go a little, they are put upright with a spoon. Finally, the top of the barrel is welded with a sheet of 2-4 mm steel with the first chimney elbow welded into it - a cut of a 100 mm pipe - and the sauna is ready.

Fast

This stove is also of a country type, or for a hunting lodge. It is already made entirely from a barrel and can be installed directly on the ground. The grate of the heater is made of welded fittings. The inner lining is the same as the previous one. The oven heats up the bathhouse-closet of cubes by 10-12 in 15-20 minutes. and cools down just as quickly. Therefore, it is designed, without underflooding, for washing alone with a little steaming, or hastily together. But with such a speed of bathing procedures, there is no danger that the water in the boiler will boil, and here it is arranged according to the principle of titanium, covering the chimney. The capacity of the boiler is 15-20 liters, which is enough for one or two.

Video: a simple homemade metal stove for a bath

About brick cases

You can find advice to cover metal furnaces with bricks on the outside, this supposedly improves their properties. In fact, the outer lining does not improve anything, but only worsens. The metal of the furnace, not being able to give off heat, heats up to orange and quickly burns out even with a thickness of 8-10 mm. And the heat transfer to the heater, even if it is deaf, even if it is flowing, almost does not improve. The outer lining only does not release IR, and such a furnace most often produces heavy steam.

Pipe stove

Here in the figure - a stove for a bath of large diameter.

Pieces of 525-mm pipes rarely lie in the trash, but if there is one, this is a godsend:

No foundation needed, just insulation from the floor and walls.
Heats a bath up to 35 cubic meters.
A deep, double-heated deaf heater allows you to pressurize the firebox at any time.
The mouth of the firebox extended forward with a blower easily goes into the dressing room.
The round shape in the section gives the optimal combination of radiation with convection, which is why such a stove heats the bath almost twice as much as the “bourgeois” one at almost the same heat output.
The heater tray in the smoke circulation is covered by a U-shaped hot water register without the slightest loss of the qualities of the stove.

Note: The water heater must not be placed flat. It is necessary to tilt slightly across so that the hot water supply pipe is higher than that of the return flow.

About hot water boilers

Not every sauna stove can be so easily integrated with a hot water circuit. And to heat water for a bath in the kitchen and carry buckets is nonsense. And it is not always possible, because a bathhouse can stand on the outskirts. But you can attach an annular hot water boiler to any sauna stove by putting it on the chimney pipe. The degree and time of heating can be adjusted by moving the boiler up and down.

From waste materials, in order not to master and order complex welding and tinsmith work, a reliable and durable boiler is well obtained from two worthless rims of automobile wheels and a pipe section of a suitable diameter, see fig. Excess holes are welded without special care with any suitable pieces of metal. The boiler is attached to the chimney by the protruding ends of the axial pipe with clamps.

Purchased

If you have sufficient funds, buying a stove for a bath is not a problem. Models, as already mentioned, are offered a lot. The world's leading producers are Finland and Russia. The Finns make Helo, Kastor, Harvia, Narvi, Iki, Upo, Tulikivi and others. Kastor is called the "stove Mercedes", and, I must say, the Finns do not take money "for an asterisk". Of the Russian ones, Termofor, Teplodar, Ermak, Inzhkomtsentr VVD, Vulkan, Sukhovey are known on the market, but firstly, Troika can be especially noted. These are solid, expensive stoves for wealthy customers or commercial bathing establishments. In Finland itself, in saunas, you can often find Troikas, which, with equal quality, reliability and durability, are much cheaper than Mercedes from the stove. "Troek" produces a wide range of models, see Fig., of different capacities and configurations. The disadvantage, and that conditional one, is only one: a large, in comparison with analogues from other manufacturers, weight. The installation of Troika, designed for the company, requires a strong, reliable foundation and a whole team of workers.

Sauna ovens “Troika”

This is explained by the fact that the company, without further ado, achieves ideal bath heat engineering in an “oak” way: by increasing the thickness of the material and the weight of the stones. In Troikas, the load required according to specifications can exceed 250 kg, and the entire furnace pulls more than a ton. Cast iron ATBs have long been popular among a wide range of consumers, see fig. below, well-proven for small private baths and affordable. Of the models available for sale, only ATB2 had a serious defect: boiling water in the boiler before the heater warmed up. But craftsmen quickly found a way out: they turned the firebox lid upside down, opposite to the standard installation. At the same time, the path of flue gases in the heat exchanger was reduced, and at the cost of some decrease in efficiency, which is not significant for an infrequently heated bath, the water was heated just in time.

But the stove had to “turn the horns” before its installation, because. the chimney hole went back from the firebox, and then why not break the ceiling, attic and roof? Therefore, they soon came up with another method: they put something under the legs of the tank (it just stands on the body of the furnace) to lift it from the firebox. This method of adjusting the water temperature in the boiler is applicable to almost all ATB models.

Camping bath

Camping baths were invented by tourists. But not those who buy tours to Thailand, but those who go anywhere at any time of the year and in any weather. In the Sayans, during the spring thaw on a day trip to the bathhouse, oh how you want ... your whole body aches, and squelches from mud and behind the scruff of the neck ... It will be on the ointment if there is a hollow next to a flat place for a tent with rather steep walls for a fire. Then - aluminum tubes from the tent frame or easel backpacks; in winter - from ski poles. They connect the pipe segments with socks washed in the snow, they dry out so quickly, tied with laces from vibrams. It remains to make a fire, bring the end of the pipe with an upward slope into the tent, and put its other end into the flame, but so that the mouth is away from the fire and fresh air enters it, see fig.

Such a bath saved not only from dirt and fatigue. The author knows a case when, thanks to her, the group survived in a critical situation. On a winter night, a tree fell on the tent. After that, only one could move, but there was no question of going for help. Then he built a hut from spruce branches, dragged his comrades there, then built a stove from a fire with a pipe, and stoked it until the deadline passed and the rescuers came. In the hospital, everyone then lain from a month to six months, two received a disability - but everyone survived. And without a shelter with heating at minus 15-20, they would freeze in an hour or two.

And after baths?

There was once an acquaintance of the author - a Finn. And in Finland then there was a dry law, and the valiant representative of Scandinavia regularly came to Leningrad for the weekend to get drunk there to death, in the prone, to the green serpent. Once he caught himself at the beginning of a drinking bout, decided to quit and asked him to give him a bath. Russian, with a broom, from which the birch spirit penetrates to the marrow of bones. Having steamed properly, I concluded: “You know, your bath is still different” - “Why?” - “After your tea I want. Strong. With jam "-" And after yours? - "Vodka. A lot of. woman. Rarely". However, this difference is explained, most likely, not by the actual difference between the Russian and Finnish baths, but by the individual characteristics of Eino and a series of his previous sprees.

There are a lot of metal stoves for a bath on sale, but good ones cost a lot of money. If you have sufficient experience in welding metal, you can make the furnace yourself, according to your size. About how to make a stove for a bath from metal (sheet), drawings and photos - further.

There is a significant difference between the modes of soaring in a bath and a sauna. In the sauna, the air temperature is very high - from 85C and much higher. At such a temperature, the humidity simply cannot be high - you will immediately get burned, and crumble in five minutes. And it is really small, about 5-15%. In the Russian steam room, the temperature is kept within 55-65°C, occasionally rising to 70°C. At such temperatures, the humidity "catch up" more - 50-60%.

To meet these different challenges, different approaches to building a furnace are required. The sauna requires the largest area of contact between the body of the furnace and the surrounding air and the acceleration of the passage of air flows along the walls. Everything is subordinated to the task of heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. There is a heater, but it is small, open, usually located above the firebox. The stones in it warm up to a maximum of 200-250 ° C, since they give off a lot of heat to the surrounding air. You can get a little steam from such a heater. But in the sauna you don’t need much - one / two ladles will give 15% humidity. Just can't take it anymore.

In the Russian steam room, the task is different - not to overheat the room and achieve a large amount of steam. Moreover, the steam must be of a certain condition - it must consist of very small droplets. It is also called "dry" and it has a high temperature - about 130-150 ° C. Under this condition, after soaring in the body, lightness and a surge of strength are felt. Such steam is obtained only from hot stones, the temperature of which is at least 500 ° C. To reach it, the stones are “packed” inside the furnace - a box is placed in it - a closed heater.

As you can see, there are solid design differences. They must be kept in mind.

Homemade stoves for the Russian bath

What else should be kept in mind when designing a stove for the Russian steam room mode? The fact that having heated metal walls to keep the temperature within the required 60-65 ° C is unrealistic. Be sure to recycle. At the same time, hard IR radiation comes from the walls of the furnace and it is difficult to be nearby. The problem is solved in two ways:

Another thing to talk about is seams. IN homemade ovens from metal (in the factory, in principle, too) often burnout begins precisely from the seams. In production this problem bypassed with curved structures. In the upper part, they try to avoid seams altogether. When making a stove for a bath with your own hands, you are unlikely to be able to bend a sheet of metal 6-10 mm thick, so there is only one thing left - to make the seams as high quality as possible.

Kamenka: what size and where

The required number of stones depends on the volume of the steam room (provided that it is normal). Different sources have different recommendations with more or less - from 20 to 40 kg per 1 m 3. In principle, the more stones, the easier it is to get the required amount of steam, but on condition that the stove has enough power to heat them.

The problem is that the stones different breed have different densities, and, consequently, the same mass occupies a different volume. In principle, for an average steam room with a volume of 12-14 m 3, the dimensions of the heater are approximately the following: 30 * 40 * 30 mm. The parameters can be slightly changed, made wider / narrower / higher - look at the design of the furnace.

The ratio of the volume of the furnace to the volume of the heater is a complex heat engineering calculation, which not even every heat engineer is able to master. It is much easier to use ready-made drawings or experimentally determined proportions. As a minimum, the volume of the firebox "free" from the heater should not be less. Better if even more by about 30-50%.

A little about where in the firebox it is best to place a box for stones. Everyone has long come to the conclusion that the highest temperature is in the upper part and at the back wall. This is where it makes sense to place the container. Firstly, part of the thermal load from the roof of the furnace will be removed, and secondly, the stones will heat up well.

Do not forget about the maintenance of the heater and that water must somehow get there. The service hatch must be positioned in such a way that you can easily reach the farthest edge with your hand. And the water supply deep into the heater must be organized so as not to get burned. Usually, a tube or a system of tubes is inserted, which diverge over the entire plane of the stone container. From the side of the room, this tube ends with a funnel. The pipe is lined with stones. When water is supplied to it, it is distributed over the surface of the heater / stones and evaporates.

Drawings of homemade metal sauna stoves

This stove is designed for a steam room 2 * 3 * 2.3 m. It was cooked from sheet metal 3 mm thick.

To activate combustion, an additional air duct is connected, laid from the street. Other solutions include stiffeners (corners) welded to the sides of the firebox in the upper part of the firebox so that the metal does not bend when heated.

The following scheme of a metal stove for a bath is made with air supply to the top of the firebox. These are the so-called furnaces with afterburning gases. A metal plate is welded on the back wall. In the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace, air is supplied from under the grates with the help of air ducts. This simple, it seems, the device solves two problems at once. First, it cools back wall, reducing the chance of burnout. Secondly, the air is supplied to the upper part heated. Flue gases heated to high temperatures are concentrated there, most of which are combustible (up to 80%). When these gases mix with heated air, combustible substances ignite, the temperature in the upper part of the furnace becomes even higher, the stones are heated to higher temperatures. At the same time (when using dry firewood), much less fuel is required. Many long-burning stoves are built on this principle, but it has recently been used in sauna stoves.

Approximately the same model, but without afterburning, is made in a different format. Here the dimensions are not indicated, but it is easier to understand the proportions and arrangement of various elements.

Volumetric model of a home-made stove-heater made of metal

In this case, the volume of the furnace is about 130% of the volume of the heater. Normal ratio. The chimney is shifted back, which is not always good - difficulties may arise when installing the chimney - it can rest against ceiling beam- you will have to bend the chimney, which is undesirable. So think about the location of the pipe.

Even among bath lovers, there are constant disputes: a tank for heating water in a steam room is good or bad ... Some regulate the humidity by opening / closing the tank lid. This option suits them. Others say that this steam is “heavy”, and they take the tank to the washing compartment, and heat the water in it by building a heat exchanger into the furnace and connecting it to the tank with pipes. The next scheme is a furnace in a metal bath with a water tank.

The design is competent - with the help of a “spark arrester”, the path of flue gases is longer, it stays in the furnace longer, it heats the walls better. If you do not want a tank, you can put stones in its place.

An interesting option with a tank, which is located at the back of the oven. The chimney is moved back, and passes through the tank. The height of the tank is large, the heat removal will be effective - the temperature of the chimney at the exit from the tank will not be large for sure.

Interestingly arranged stone. It is not very large, but for small and medium steam rooms its volume is enough. It closes with a lid, which, on the one hand, is not very convenient: closing the lid after water has been supplied to the stones will be problematic. On the other hand, it is convenient to maintain.

How to make a sauna stove

As already mentioned, the main task of this type of heating devices is to quickly “catch up” with the required temperature and be able to maintain it. There is a simple solution - put a fan that will blow over the walls of the furnace, accelerating heating.

Approximately the same function is performed by the casing-convector. This is the casing around the furnace body. A gap of 1.5-2 cm remains between it and the wall of the furnace. Air is sucked into this gap from below. It passes along the walls, heats up, at the same time cooling the walls. Then it rises up, spreading heat throughout the steam room.

If the furnace body is made of thick metal, then the casing can also be made of thin. It rarely heats up to high temperatures, and burnout does not threaten it. If in the sauna stove the heater is located at the top, above the firebox, as in the photo, then holes can be made in the body to ventilate the heater. Then part of the air that rises along the walls will enter the heater, blow over the stones and heat up even more. Such a heater is called ventilated. It is good for dry air saunas.

Drawings and diagrams

The design of sauna stoves is simpler. You need a firebox of a normal size, in which large logs are placed. In the upper part, above the upper part of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which is usually 20-25 liters. Variations can be in width / height / depth, but there are no special tricks.

Installing a tank for heating water in the steam room of a sauna is not the best idea. You won't be able to control the humidity, and it's easy to get burned at high temperatures. However, there are several options for installing tanks in the photo above.

Another type of heater is inside the firebox. If desired, you can make a lid on it and such an oven can be used in two modes - with an open lid for dry steaming, with an open one - to get more steam.

The stove in a real Russian bath should be economical and produce healthy heat. According to these criteria, wood heaters outperform electric and gas heat generators. But there is a third, no less important plus: you can make a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, provided that you are good at electric welding. Brick variant the heater is also good, but not available to everyone due to the price of materials and the complexity of masonry in the finished steam room. So choose a home-made unit from the models proposed in our publication and start manufacturing using step-by-step instructions and drawings.

The choice of the design of the sauna stove

Ideally, a heat source made of metal should meet the following requirements:

Quickly warm up and raise the temperature in the steam room. With this, iron stoves do an excellent job.
Keep warm as long as possible. Since steel heats up and cools quickly, you will need a heater that stores heat, or an increase in the burning time of the firebox. The third option is to overlay the sauna stove with bricks after installation.
Occupy a minimum of usable space in the steam room. If the volume of this room is too small, then it is better to choose a vertical design with a loading door placed in the dressing room.
The heater must be safe for people washing in the bath. To protect yourself from burns, you can install a convection casing made of sheet iron on the case or, again, build a brick wall around the case.

Note. The duration of burning increases with the volume of the fuel chamber of the unit. Here you need to find a reasonable balance between the size of the stove and the duration of its operation. A small firebox will have to be constantly loaded with firewood, instead of calmly washing, and a large stove will take up half the area of \u200b\u200bthe steam room.

Do-it-yourself iron stoves for a bath are of the following designs:

with a body oriented in space vertically or horizontally;
melted directly from the steam room or from the next room (a remote firebox door is made);
with and without a water tank;
with outdoor or indoor heater.

Vertical heater

The vertical body of the stove shown in the photo gives 1 advantage - saving space in the bath. There are more disadvantages: a short burning time (due to the fact that the flame covers the entire laying of firewood) and not too high heat transfer. According to these important parameters, a horizontal bath heater outperforms a vertical one, but at the same time it occupies a large area.

Horizontal stove with heater and tank

If there is no electric water heater in the bath, it costs nothing to put a tank for heating water intended for washing on the stove or chimney. It can be welded from ordinary metal, and preferably from stainless steel. There is a more convenient way to heat water: a tank located in the washing room is connected by pipes to a samovar-type steel heat exchanger installed on the chimney.

Steel heat exchanger for chimney

The open heater, inherited from the Finnish sauna, heats up to a maximum of 400 ° C, but it can be poured with water in order to "succumb to the park." Kamenka, closed inside the body of the stove, accumulate more heat, warming up to 700-800 ° C, but at the same time they are polluted by passing flue gases and therefore require periodic cleaning.

Reference. Some craftsmen assemble metal stoves with internal brickwork, whose diagram is shown above. They serve for a long time without burning out the walls, but they are difficult to manufacture, and fireclay bricks cost money. You can learn more about various bath heaters by watching the video:

Preparation of materials

It is best to make a stove in a bath from steel pipe with a diameter of 300-500 mm or a gas cylinder. There are several reasons:

the pipe is a ready-made body of the unit, which simplifies things;
a cylindrical shape is preferable to a rectangular one for reasons of aerodynamics (air flow) and heat transfer;
vaulted walls without seams will last longer than flat ones;
a round firebox is easier to clean from ash and soot.

Advice. It is more convenient to make an ash pan from sheet metal 2 mm thick, and 3 mm iron will go to the doors. Try not to use high-carbon steel grades higher than St35, which can be hardened from exposure high temperature, deform and burst at the seams. The correct furnace is welded from the St3 brand.

Door manufacturing steps

The grate can be made from corners or fittings of a periodic profile. The budget option is a sheet of thick iron with longitudinal slots, purchased - cast iron grates. It is desirable to make the doors double-layered with a basalt fiber gasket (pictured) so as not to get burned if accidentally touched.

Kamenka stove - manufacturing guide

We bring to your attention 3 common designs of metal stoves for a bath:

a simple horizontal stove from a cylinder, melted inside a steam room;
a heater from a 530 mm pipe with an external firebox;
vertical sauna boiler "three in one".

The first option is attractive due to its ease of manufacture, small size and mobility. For homemade, you will need an old propane cylinder with a diameter of 300 or 500 mm and scrap metal. The second heater is distinguished by an additional section with a door built into the opening of the steam room wall and an open heater. The third model is a whole boiler, consisting of three compartments - a firebox, a closed heater and a tank for heating water.

Advice. If you find good pipe or the balloon fails, cook the stove according to the drawing from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 3 mm (preferably 5 mm). First, you will have to perform a series of operations to assemble the firebox - cutting blanks and welding them together with strict observance of 90 ° angles.

On the drawings - variants of heating units made of sheet iron

We weld a simple stove

The first thing to do is to properly cut off the cylinder cap along the factory seam. To do this, unscrew the gas valve with an open-end wrench and fill the container with water, after which you can work as a grinder.

Reference. Propane is heavier than air, and therefore reluctant to leave closed vessels. In order not to get an explosion when cutting metal, it is customary to displace it from there with the help of water.

Assemble the heater according to the presented drawing, observing the following order:

Cut openings at the end of the cover for mounting the doors and in the housing for the chimney pipe. From strips of metal, make frames for the loading and ash doors, weld them to the openings.
Assemble the grate for welding and place it on the corners fixed inside the cylinder. Weld the cut cover in place.
Make the sashes as shown in the photo. Install them on hinges and attach constipation.
Attach legs and a chimney to the body.

After assembly, the stove for a bath from a gas cylinder is melted on the street in order to burn out all the old paint. Then it can be degreased and repainted using a heat-resistant composition of the KO series.

Production of a unit with a remote firebox

To make such a furnace, you need to prepare metal parts and cut the pipe to size, guided by the drawing:

Advice. When preparing metal for an additional section of the heater, measure the thickness of the wall between the steam room and the dressing room. So you will know the width of the stackable part that will fit into the opening of the partition.

Follow the instructions below for further work:

Cut a hole in the upper part of the pipe, weld the chimney pipe to it, and the legs from the bottom of the firebox. Install the grates as described in the previous section.
Make the front section and weld it to the firebox. Weld a blank metal disk to the rear end of the housing.
Make doors with handles insulated with basalt wool and install them in place.

An important point. The lower plane of the remote firebox should be flush with the pipe wall for easy cleaning of the ash pan.

From above, to the finished stove, it remains to weld the frame for the heater from the corners, sheathed with a large-mesh metal mesh. After firing, staining and installation in the bath in place, fill the grid with special stones from the list:

basalt;
river pebbles;
gabbro diabase;
soapstone.

How a similar sauna stove is made in practice is described in detail in the video:

Making a vertical boiler

A feature of the round unit shown in the drawing is the presence of 3 chambers - fuel, heater and water tank. Their value can vary according to your desire, for example, than big sizes you make a firebox, the longer 1 bookmark of firewood will burn. Increasing the heater will allow to accumulate more heat, which is released for a long time after the fuel burns out.

Advice. Do not greatly increase the volume of the tank with water, otherwise it will not have time to warm up by the time of washing.

The assembly order of the boiler looks like this:

Cut blanks of partitions, bottom and cover from metal with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Prepare the ends of the pipe and weld round grates.
In the case, make openings for doors and a hatch for loading stones.
Make holes in the partitions for the chimney and install them inside the pipe. Attach the tank lid to the hinges.
Make doors from semi-circular cut-out pieces and place them on awnings.
Install a chimney channel and a water drain valve at the bottom of the tank.

If desired, even in this furnace, you can make a remote firebox. To do this, you need to build up the loading and ash channel, welding blanks of metal of the required width to the side of the pipe, as shown in the photo above. Correct Assembly such a heat generator is shown in detail in the following video:

Installing a stove in a bath

Since the right steam room is always built of wood, the main requirement when installing a wood-burning heater is fire safety. To endure it, follow simple rules:

the stove cannot be placed directly on a wooden floor, but only on a sheet of iron protruding 70 cm in front of the firebox;
wall cladding made of combustible materials must also be protected from fire with sheets roofing iron or minerite;
when installing a heater with the removal of the firebox, the opening in the wooden partition is also sheathed with non-combustible materials, as is done in the photo;
distance from the insulated chimney to building structures from wood - 38 cm.

The channel for the removal of combustion products to the street is recommended to be made of a double-walled sandwich filled with basalt wool. Often, the same square-shaped water tank is used to isolate the chimney, built right into the ceiling. How to properly install the stove in the bath is shown in the diagram:

Important. Do not use sheet or cord asbestos for thermal insulation inside the bathhouse, it emits dust that is harmful to health.

Conclusion

When a homeowner is faced with a choice - to lay down a stone sauna stove or put a metal one, then the majority tends to the second option as more economical. A homemade iron stove will come out even cheaper, in addition, it is ideal in all respects, because you yourself will think over its design. Don't know how to weld? Save money otherwise by ordering the assembly of the unit in a specialized workshop.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

Do-it-yourself ovens in the bath. Metal stove for a bath: drawings and manufacturing tips. How to overlay a steel structure with hollow bricks: building a combined furnace

Differences between metal stoves for baths and saunas

Do-it-yourself stoves for a Russian bath

What is the size of the stove and where is it better to put it?

Drawings of homemade steel sauna stoves

Making a sauna stove

Schemes and drawings of furnaces

Metal sauna stove: manufacturing instructions

Advantages and disadvantages of metal stoves for a bath

Material for a metal furnace in a bath

The design of the stove-heater made of metal for a bath

Making a stove-heater for a bath from a metal pipe

The procedure for installing a metal stove in a bath

We assemble a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

What do you need to work?

Works on the construction of the furnace

Options for assembling a furnace of a different design

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

Unit advantages

Disadvantages of a metal sauna stove

Choosing a shape for a metal sauna stove

Do-it-yourself oven construction options

Manufacturing process

Rules for installing a bath metal furnace

Types of stoves for a bath

Features and benefits of masonry heater

Features of the metal furnace

Do-it-yourself metal furnace manufacturing steps

How to build a brick oven with your own hands

How to calculate the material, make a drawing for the manufacture of a brick oven with your own hands

Furnaces of constant and periodic heating for a small bath

Choosing a place and installing a stove for a bath with your own hands

The secret of the steam room

A little bit in passing

Sauna with a stove or stove in a bath?

Russian or Finnish?

How does someone soar

Bath device

Safety

burns

frenzy

Fuel

Kamenka

stones

Stone laying

Flowing and blind heaters

Furnace material

Choosing an oven

Everything big, real

Bath

And a brick oven

Ordering and drying

Video: brick sauna oven

We take care of the metal

Bath potbelly stove

Without brick

in a case

From the barrel

Fast

Video: a simple homemade metal stove for a bath

About brick cases

Pipe stove

About hot water boilers

Purchased

Camping bath

And after baths?

Homemade stoves for the Russian bath

Kamenka: what size and where

Drawings of homemade metal sauna stoves

How to make a sauna stove

Drawings and diagrams

The choice of the design of the sauna stove

Preparation of materials

Kamenka stove - manufacturing guide

We weld a simple stove

Production of a unit with a remote firebox

Making a vertical boiler

Installing a stove in a bath

Conclusion

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