Bake in the steam room with your own hands. DIY iron stoves for saunas. Drawings and diagrams of metal furnaces

Some people prefer to make stove equipment for a bathhouse themselves. This is due not only to the saving mode, but also to the ability to assemble exactly the stove that is suitable for a particular room. If you are planning to make a sauna stove with your own hands from metal with a water tank, a drawing is far from the only thing you will need. Knowledge and ability to read blueprints, related tools and materials. And in any case, a homemade stove will allow you to spend money rationally and realize all your ideas in the unit.

The quality and benefits of a bath largely depend on what kind of stove is installed and how it works. The difference between a real Russian bath and a hammam or sauna is the high (more than 70%) humidity in the room at a temperature not lower than 80 0 C.

Often such a stove is made of stone, for which fireclay (clay) brick or granite are suitable. Any other stones simply will not withstand the heat and may burst if water gets on them. IN Lately Metal stoves, which are in no way inferior to stone ones, have become popular. Such stoves can be purchased at most specialized stores, but each of them will need fine-tuning. Do-it-yourself stoves are much more economical, but just as effective.

Video 1 Sauna stove

Homemade models

There are 2 main constructive varieties homemade sauna stoves:

• vertical, which can be made from a thick-walled pipe of the appropriate diameter;
• horizontal, based on metal barrel or an inoperative gas cylinder.

In this article we will tell you how to make each sauna stove with your own hands from metal with a water tank - drawings, detailed description, list of materials and recommendations of specialists.

Horizontal

The drawing of a horizontal stove for a bath is quite simple. Zhara stoves are manufactured using the same principle with minor modifications.

• corner Grinder(Bulgarian);
• two fragments of pipe 10-12 mm long, 750 mm long, 500 mm in diameter;
• pipe fragment 350 mm with a diameter of 200 mm;
• chimney pipe with a diameter of 114 mm;
• fittings or rods;
• 2 sets door hinges;
• 3-5 metal sheets 8;
• 4 sheets of stainless steel from which the tank will be welded;
• tap.

The design of the furnace provides for the possibility of installing the tank either on the firebox body or separately. Heating time varies slightly.

1. The main pipe 750 mm is located horizontally; this will be the furnace body. For stability, you can immediately weld a stand onto it. Often the supports are made from end parts; this adds aesthetics and the stove looks more finished.
2. A third of the diameter was measured from the bottom border of the pipe, and from this point you measure the distance from wall to wall of the pipe.
3. Cut out a rectangle from a steel sheet, where the smaller side will be equal to this distance, and the larger side will be 75 cm. This is the future base for firewood.
4. In the center of the cut out rectangle, cut out a square for the grate. The size of the square must match the finished lattice, or weld rods or fittings here.
5. The resulting structure is inserted into the pipe and welded along the edges.
6. To make the end sides from steel sheets, cut out 2 rectangles 70 x 53 cm and weld them to the main pipe.
7. For future vent and firebox doors, cut holes on the front part. Weld the hinges and put the doors on.
8. Make a hole on the top of the pipe for the chimney pipe. Its diameter is not important, but should not differ greatly from the size of the chimney pipe. Put the pipe on and brew it. The chimney pipe itself can be put on at the very end so that it does not interfere with further work.
9. Cut the 350 mm pipe into 2 equal parts, after which you weld the edge of one of them. Make a hole exactly in the center for the chimney pipe so that the diameters match. Cover the case with a lid so that the holes do not coincide. This directional failure is designed to contain smoke and keep the stove warm. The entire structure is welded.
10. Weld a basket for stones from reinforcement or steel rods, install it above the firebox, putting it on a hemisphere (see diagram).
11. Weld a tank of suitable diameter from stainless steel, separately make a removable lid with a handle and fasteners on which the tank will be hung.

Video 2 Making a metal sauna stove with your own hands from A to Z

Vertical model

It should be noted that the choice of design depends on the area of ​​the steam room or room where it will be installed and the ability to work with the material. If you have the desire and faith in your abilities, in order to make a sauna stove with your own hands from metal with a water tank, the drawing is the most important thing.

Experienced craftsmen classify this type of furnace as the least efficient and very impractical. In order for the stove to cope with its tasks, the water tank must be placed at the top.

Required tools and materials:

• welding machine and electrodes;
• Bulgarian;
• a brush for cleaning seams (if you have experience, you can clean them with a grinder);
• 1.5-meter fragment of pipe 8-10 mm thick with a diameter of 500-550 mm;
• 2-meter pipe with a diameter of 100 mm;
• metal sheet 10-14 mm;
• metal paint;
• firebox door

All materials can be purchased at scrap metal collection points, but they must all be solid, without corrosive holes.

• Cut a pipe with a diameter of 500-550 mm lengthwise into 3 sections approximately equal in length.
• A firebox is made from the first fragment, for which 2 circles of the appropriate diameter are cut out of a metal sheet and the bottom and top of the pipe are welded.
• On front side A hole is cut out of this pipe for loading fuel, after which hinges are welded to it and a door is put on.
• On the upper part of the pipe (in the lid), a hole with a diameter of 85-90 mm is cut out with a grinder, to which a 100 mm pipe is welded. This is the future chimney.
• The basis of the design does not imply the presence of an ash pan and, accordingly, a grate to separate the combustion chamber. If you wish, you can make such an element (see above), but the height of the firebox should not be less than 500 mm.

Finnish sauna stoves are made using a similar principle.

There are more efficient types of stoves where the chimney is installed from the second chamber. But in this case, you will have to cut several holes on the top.

• After the firebox is completed, a second piece of 750 mm pipe is put on it and welded around the perimeter. This bunker will contain stones for future furnace, responsible for proper heat exchange in the steam room.

This is a schematic cross-section of a finished vertical sauna stove:

In each compartment it is necessary to make a hole for the chimney pipe. All junctions between the compartments and the pipe are carefully welded, and the seams are cleaned.

• A tank will be created from the third pipe fragment, which is also placed on the finished structure and welded around the perimeter. The water in this compartment will be heated simultaneously from the metal and the gases released during combustion moving up the chimney.

When using electric arc welding, it is necessary to use electrodes for the appropriate metal so that the seam that is created during the welding process heats up at the same time and does not burst.

• The lid for the tank is cut according to the diameter of the pipe from a thick-walled sheet so as to go around the chimney pipe. Some masters are used for the cover wooden boards, but this is impractical.

Upon completion of all work, the seams are cleaned with a grinder or a metal brush, the stove is primed and coated with a special heat-resistant paint for metal. The price of such paint is quite high, but it will last for at least 10-15 years of regular use of the stove.

1. For simultaneous and uniform heating of the steam room and dressing room, the stove should be installed in 2 rooms. In this case, the loaded firebox is located in the dressing room, and the container with stones and a tank of water are in the steam room. This will make operation more rational and safe.
2. The wall in which the stove will be mounted should not be made of fire hazardous materials. If this is not possible, the wall should be separated from the stove with asbestos sheets, in turn covered with metal.
3. Before using the stove, it is necessary to make and repeatedly check the supply and exhaust ventilation. This will eliminate the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

As you can see, anyone can make a sauna stove with their own hands from metal with a water tank - a drawing, step-by-step explanations, videos and recommendations from experts will help you with this.

Many have already acquired dachas, and many are still thinking about it. With such a purchase, the question of installing a bathhouse and building a sauna stove always arises. This is a serious task that must be approached comprehensively. First, you should decide in what mode the sauna will operate, then think about what you expect from the sauna (dry steam, wet) and then decide how to build a stove in the sauna with your own hands. In this article we will offer a solution to all these issues.

Before we begin construction with our own hands, let's understand the operating modes of the bathhouse. This will help us with how to build a stove in a bathhouse and what materials to use.

According to the operating mode, there are two types of baths:

• Baths continuous action. During this work, the stones are heated, which are placed in a metal box. They accumulate heat directly within themselves. This design makes it possible to start steaming when the stones are warmed up and eliminates the possibility of carbon monoxide entering the steam room. Such baths are highly safe. The stove can be heated repeatedly, and even during bath procedures. This design is characterized by high consumption of combustion material, because The oven is not hot enough. But the inability of soot and exhaust gases to enter the steam room can compensate for many costs.

• Periodic units in which stones are directly heated in the heater. This principle is used to work in public baths. Here, heating lasts throughout the night; the cast iron stoves are heated, which give off their heat throughout the day. It is necessary to first warm up the stones for a long time.

The stones are heated with an open flame; the temperature sometimes reaches 1000°C. Here, low heating temperatures are not used; in this case, it is possible to cover the heating elements with a layer of soot, which rises into the air along with steam when the stones are doused with water.

Requirements for a sauna stove

Before building a stove with your own hands, you should determine a number of requirements that the design must meet:

• Creating the required temperature and maintaining the required humidity in the steam room and sink.
• Economical.
• Necessary water heating.
• Thermal capacity of the structure. After taking bath procedures, there should be an opportunity to dry the room (this will extend the life of the bath), and the ability to clean the entire room.
• The design must have sufficient capacity to heat water.
• A backup power supply is provided (so as not to suffer during a power outage).
• Heat must come to a person from all sides.
• Safe to use, there should be no burning or soot.

Brick sauna stove

Now we will tell you how to build. When doing the work yourself, you should start by preparing a detailed drawing. This will allow you to correctly calculate the amount of materials for construction. A structure built with your own hands must meet all fire safety standards and the necessary requirements:

• The air heating in the steam room should be over 50 degrees.
• Good steam release when watering the heater with water.
• No exhaust gases entering the room.
• Economical.

Now we need to select materials for manufacturing. When selecting, you should take into account the coefficient of expansion from heating, strength, and corrosion resistance. Based on these requirements, you should select the right material.

Clay mortar

Now we need to choose the materials for making the stove with our own hands. The masonry is not made with pure clay, but with a mixture of clay and sand. If you use coal in the furnace, you will also need to add 25% fireclay powder. This will greatly increase the fire resistance of the solution.

Attention: we should not forget that when clay gains moisture, it increases its volume. As it dries, it decreases. Laying should not be carried out in conditions of high humidity and at temperatures below zero. When laying under such conditions, the clay will swell and make the masonry unsuitable.

Clay solution is not used:

• in the manufacture of chimney pipe heads;
• when installing ventilation ducts;
• not used when installing a furnace foundation;
• when installing main chimneys.

Clay provides excellent waterproofing. Its property is especially applicable: after a full collection of water and subsequent drying, it does not allow moisture to pass through. The strength of the structure also depends on the quality of preparation of the clay solution. Typically used sand to clay ratio 2:1.

• Before you start preparing the solution with your own hands, you should sift the dry mixtures through a sieve, mesh applied 1.5 mm. This will remove large stones and unnecessary debris. You can use mountain and river sand.
• Pour the components into the solution preparation box. Mix with a shovel. Add water. After this, leave for 8-10 hours. During this time, the clay will turn sour and acquire the necessary elasticity. It is better to start making the solution a day before the start of masonry.
• After the clay has soured, stir with a shovel, if necessary, add water and bring the mixture to a homogeneous mass. When preparing the solution with your own hands, it is advisable to use a drill with a kneading attachment - this will make your work easier and make the kneading better.
• Use your hands to check the mixture for the presence of large lumps. They shouldn't exist.

Brick selection

Next we will tell you how to build a stove for a bathhouse and choose high-quality bricks. Currently, there are many types of this product on the retail market. You can choose the desired shape of the material and choose the color. But here one should take into account such a nuance. Brick is subject to firing during manufacturing, and according to this parameter there are three types of products:

• Red brick. This is a well fired material. It has smooth edges and smooth walls. If you lightly tap on its surface, a metallic sound will be heard.
• Brick Pink colour. This indicates that this material is not fired well. When tapped, it will make a dull sound. Such material should not be placed on important parts of the structure.
• The material is dark brown. This indicates that the material has been burned. It should be used when installing the foundation.

Furnace manufacturing diagram

Let's first imagine how to build a stove in a bathhouse schematically.

• Selecting the location of the oven. Here you should also remember about fire safety rules: the stove should not be located closer than 30 cm from wooden materials.

Attention: it is possible to reduce the distance. Asbestos cement sheets should be glued to the wooden structure. It will be done right. Fire safety standards will be met and the distance will be reduced.

• For DIY work, use only high-quality bricks. The use of hollow and silicate material is unacceptable. This product is not intended for this type of work and has a low heat capacity. It is possible to use old bricks after proper cleaning.

• Do-it-yourself masonry should be done using clay-sand mortar.
• First, you should sort the material by thickness. Use bricks of the same thickness in the masonry of each row. This will ensure the same thickness of the masonry in order.
• First, you should lay out each row dry and check that it is laid correctly. Be sure to lay the first row of the chimney dry and use a plumb line to check the alignment of the corners of the structure (this is extremely important when making a chimney). Be sure to check the perpendicular, this will help during further installation of the relationship between the manufacture of the firebox and the chimney.
• The brick must be wetted before laying. Next, apply the solution to the installation site using a trowel. You shrink the product using a trowel and press it with your hand; you must not allow voids to form in the middle of the seam. Excess solution must be removed immediately.
• Each row of masonry is checked by a building level. The production of corners is controlled using a plumb line. Don't neglect measurements. It's better to do it right right away than to redo it later.
• The internal walls must be smooth; do not use crushed bricks or leave mortar after laying the material.
• Internal surfaces should not be rubbed with clay, it dries out and begins to peel off from the surface and thereby clogs the chimney channel;
• Each new row of brick laying begins only after the previous one has been completed.
• Installation additional elements(doors, latches) is performed during the main masonry.
• The doors are installed in order using annealed wire with a diameter of 3 mm. A seal is made around the perimeter using an asbestos-cement cord. With this action you will take into account the expansion coefficient of the metal surface.
• After making the stove, it should be dried for about three days at open door in room.

Furnace laying

After preparing the solution and the necessary tools, you can begin to do the masonry with your own hands.

Making the foundation

Our work begins with. It will provide a reliable foundation for the structure and ensure the correct start of the masonry. This work should be taken quite seriously.

• Using a cord, mark the location of the stove. Mark the foundation 20 cm larger than the dimensions of the main product.
• Using a shovel, dig a hole with depth 50-70 cm. After that we fill concrete grade 100 or prepare the solution and fill it yourself. First, we fill the hole with broken bricks or crushed stone. You can use stones that are on the site. We make a batch of liquid mortar using sand and cement in a ratio of 2:1. Stir and add water, bringing the solution to a liquid state. We compact the crushed stone and fill it with the prepared liquid mixture.

• Let it dry for about 3 days and level the foundation.. We check the construction level. The plane must be completely parallel to the axis of the earth.

Carrying out the laying

First, we need to cover the prepared foundation with roofing felt - this will be waterproofing. Then you should make a row of masonry around the entire perimeter; be sure to check the area of ​​the structure made with a building level.

• We wrap the blower door along the installation plane with asbestos cord and fasten it after the first row of masonry. Some people advise fastening the door using a metal bar, but this is not entirely correct. If you are installing a steel product, then this is possible. When installing a product made of cast iron, only wire with a diameter of three mm should be used.
• If the wire interferes with the masonry, you should make cuts in the brick, for this you should use a grinder with a cutting wheel. We twist the wire to strengthen the fastening.
• We make four complete rows around the perimeter of the structure. Here the first door should approximately overlap.
• Measurements should be taken of each laid out row. If the door frame interferes with the laying of bricks, you need to make cuts using a grinder, and the gap between the frame and the edge of the brick should be not less than 10 mm.
• Take the grate and apply it to the row you have made. Along the contour, using a marker, mark the edge of the installation. We lower the brick to the thickness of the grate. We make the cut 10 mm larger than the size of the grate. Watch the edge of the grate, do not allow it to come into contact with the surface of the stone.

• We are installing a water tank. We wrap the places of contact with the brick with asbestos cord. We perform the installation immediately combustion door(we also treat the frame with asbestos cord).
• As with the installation of the first door, we use wire to secure the firebox. Fastening is done at four corners. The ends of the wire are mounted in the masonry seam.
• We carry out masonry up to the 9th row. We check each row with a building level. Using a plumb line, we control the corners of the masonry and prevent them from blocking.
• After finishing the ninth row, we will have a blocked firebox door and a water tank. Place a steel plate on the brick and outline the outline with a marker.
• Using a grinder, we make a cut in the brick to the depth of the thickness of the slab, but 10 mm more than its contour.

Attention: you should not do the 19th row while the stove is lying down. During brick laying, the mortar will be released from the seam and may fall onto the slab. This should not be allowed.

• We are installing the heater. It's better to buy it at finished form and seal it tightly.

The oven is ready. You can do it around the perimeter metal carcass from the corner. It will only strengthen the structure and increase service life.

Chimney installation

The heating of the room and the operation of the entire heating system depend on its operation. The quality of all connections should be monitored and exhaust gases prevented from entering the room.

• A single-turn system is characterized by the fact that the exhaust gas, when exiting, makes one full revolution and one descent before leaving the chimney system. Channels can be arranged in parallel. With this design, the furnace will be heated evenly. This system is simple and convenient, but is only suitable for ovens small sizes. For a large furnace using this system, only the upper part will be heated.

• The multi-turn system increases the resistance of the exhaust gases and heats the entire furnace structure. The channels can be arranged in a horizontal or vertical position.

Heating of the walls occurs unevenly, which can lead to cracking of the masonry. Sometimes a ductless system can be used. It has one camera, but no channels. This type of design has low gas resistance, but it has one significant drawback: the upper part of the product heats up very strongly. The types of chimneys were described; many use a stainless steel chimney. It just needs to be assembled correctly and hermetically, anyone can do it. Follow the installation rules and your product will serve you for many years.

Since ancient times, the brick stove in the bathhouse, which might not be found in Russia, was especially popular in Rus'. own home only in exceptional cases. Over the past few years, baths have literally experienced an incredible rebirth.

First of all, this is, of course, influenced by the fact that more and more people are refusing to live in apartment buildings and are increasingly choosing individual construction. That is why the question of how to build a stove for a bathhouse is becoming more and more popular every year.

If you can competently plan the construction process, then you will be able to build your own bathhouse in a short time without any problems, and add a special atmosphere of cheerfulness and health to your home.

Preparation process

All you need to build a sauna on your own site is literally minimal construction skills and a little patience. The first thing to start with is to choose the drawings of the stove for the bath of your dreams.

In most cases, the stove in the steam room is positioned in such a way that one part of the building is responsible for maintaining the level of heat in the dressing room, and the other is responsible for heating the steam room itself.

If we talk about the material that should be chosen for the building at the very beginning, then, in principle, most builders agree that it is possible to use those leftover materials that were not used during the main construction.

The construction process will go much faster if all the necessary tools are prepared in advance.

It is best to have trowels on the right side of the stove, as well as a level, a bucket in which there will be mortar and a hammer.

To the left of the stove, as a rule, a bucket of clean water and be sure to have another bucket with a dustpan, as well as pliers and an ordinary pencil, which you will definitely need when making various marks.

A pit will definitely be needed for the stove. Particular attention should be paid to its size, namely its depth, which should be at least 0.7 m.

The bottom of the pit, according to the rules, should be covered with about twenty centimeters of sand. After this, the sand is covered from above with crushed stone and broken bricks.

Next, it is necessary to provide in the pit reinforced frame with formwork. From above, the entire surface must be filled with concrete. Look at the photo of the sauna stove and you will see that usually no more than twenty centimeters are left.

The last two layers of the foundation act as the main waterproofing material. After the foundation is completely ready, it must be checked for horizontalness.

If any shortcomings appear, they can be quite simply eliminated using the flaws that have arisen. After the work has been completed, you can gradually move on to the construction of the bathhouse itself.

The importance of the chimney duct

When installing a chimney, it is very important to pay special attention to the general parameters of the structure. If the homemade metal sauna stove turns out to be quite small, then you shouldn’t make the pipe too massive.

In practice, the approximate thickness of the walls is about half a brick. It is desirable that the cross-section of the smoke passages be the same size.

Final stage

It is very important, after installation is completed, but before use, to dry the sauna stove properly. It is customary to use one of the following methods for these purposes:

Note!

• Forced;
• Natural.

The most preferable, according to the builders, is the second option, but you have to prepare in advance for additional time costs.

Using this method, you can be sure that the oven will dry out as evenly as possible and not a single crack will form.

Remember that if you follow all the advice given to you by the builders, then without any difficulties you will be able to build a bathhouse quickly enough exclusively on your own.

Just remember to make sure in advance that you are prepared for the necessary financial costs.

Photo of a sauna stove with your own hands

Note!

Note!

Many bathhouse owners are thinking about how to make a stove for it themselves. This solution has many advantages, including savings, the ability to make a product with the required dimensions, and high quality of the oven. However, there are a few things to consider before you start making your own.

Peculiarities

A bathhouse and a sauna are far from the same thing, so the stoves for them will be completely different. If in a sauna it is necessary to create a high temperature, and the heat should be hard and dry, then in a bath the opposite is true. The temperature also remains high, but due to the high humidity, the heat turns out to be soft and the temperature is practically not felt. Such procedures are useful for both physical and mental well-being.

Most baths are made of wood, and the type of stove that will be installed there also depends on this. For example, oak baths are designed to create high temperatures, and brick ovens are most often built there.

Linden buildings are extremely rare due to the fact that linden wood is a scarce product, and few people can afford such construction. The stoves here should not be very powerful. The heat should not be strong, since linden baths are classified as light. Of course, the simplest solution is to buy a ready-made stove designed for a certain area of ​​the bathhouse. However, many refuse this decision.

Firstly, you don’t want to overpay. Indeed, a high-quality hand-built stove costs two to three times less than the same option from a reputable manufacturer. Secondly, a stove built with one’s own hands allows the master to express himself. Thirdly, such a design can be made of any size and configuration so that it fits perfectly into your bathhouse. Stoves made to order according to personal measurements are very expensive, so it is much easier to make a stove yourself.

Pros and cons of homemade structures

Making your own stove structure has both its advantages and disadvantages. It is necessary to take both of them into account in order to soberly assess your strengths and understand whether it is worth undertaking independent production or whether it is better not to save money and order a ready-made solution.

So, the advantages include the following provisions:

• Attractive appearance , which can be varied at will. Those who have experience in welding, as well as in everything related to making things on their own, can make a truly unique design that is not inferior in beauty to factory-made analogues.
• Economical. Homemade baths, arranged in the correct way, are not inferior to factory ones in terms of saving fuel or electricity, if this option is chosen.
• High performance. A properly designed and built sauna stove is highly efficient, so no heat is wasted - everything is transferred to the steam room.

• Easy to maintain. Homemade stoves are easier to maintain because the person building them knows where everything is, which areas need to be cleaned more thoroughly, and which areas can only be lightly swept.
• Durability. Like factory stoves, home-made stoves last for many years, and if we are talking about brick stoves, they can last for several decades.
• Space saving. Thanks to the variability of the parameters, it becomes possible to rationally fit the stove structure into the bathhouse, without leaving too large gaps or taking up an unreasonably large amount of space.

As for the shortcomings, there are not many of them, but they still exist:

• If a homemade stove is made of stone, then it may be too heavy. This will require additional strengthening of the foundation, which will entail additional costs.
• There is a need to protect the environment, since the amateur stove maker does not always have the necessary knowledge on how to reduce the temperature outside the stove.
• It is necessary to carry out all work with a high degree of professionalism, since an incorrectly made stove will not properly heat the steam room and will generally cause more problems than joy.

The difference between a stove and a boiler

Many people mistakenly believe that a stove and a boiler are one and the same. Indeed, making a boiler is somewhat easier than making a stove, but this does not eliminate the disadvantage that the boiler will never create the required temperature in the bathhouse. The main purpose of the stove is heat transfer. It dissipates heat around or transfers it to a certain place, but does not concentrate it inside itself.

With the boiler, everything is exactly the opposite. It pumps heat inside and then transfers it through the pipes. However, the lion's share of the heat is lost as it passes through the pipes, causing the temperature to drop significantly, so the boiler is unable to properly heat the bathhouse.

Thus, the choice in favor of a stove rather than a boiler is obvious, although it turns out to be many times more difficult to manufacture. It is important that you are not deceived when you come across assurances in numerous instructions that the boiler and stove are one and the same.

Kinds

To date homemade stoves are divided according to many parameters. These include not only materials, but also the location of the firebox, the presence or absence of fuel, and the method of heating the heater. In order to properly evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of each of the available options, it is necessary to study them all.

It is important that not all of these types are available for a novice master to perform. Most require certain experience and knowledge regarding exactly how such structures should be made and what to focus on. Knowing what type of stove you want in your bathhouse will help you avoid people wasting time and effort adding options that will not be used in the future. For example, A steam generator or tank is not always necessary. The same goes for the dimmer., with which you can set the temperature.

The latter option is available only to either professional stove makers or people who are well versed in the nuances of such technological devices and have decided to build an electric stove.

Closed and open

The division of sauna stoves into closed and open is a fundamental factor on which the type of heat they supply fundamentally depends. So, in closed ovens the stones are covered with a lid. This is done so that the stones do not cool down longer, giving off heat only as needed. Whatever the temperature, in baths with a closed oven the steam will be moist, soft, and light.

In Russian baths you can find similar heaters much more often.

As for open ovens, then they are more typical for a sauna than for a bath. They give off intense heat and the humidity is almost zero. With all this, the stones heat up almost instantly to high temperatures.

It’s easier to build such a stove, since you don’t have to work on making a lid, but for a bathhouse this option is not the best because of the dry hot steam. Moist steam is welcome in the bathhouse.

By material

The division by material is the most obvious of all. There aren't many options. Today, only metals and bricks are available for self-production.

Brick

The dream of many bathhouse owners is a brick oven. This is due not only to its traditional and solid appearance, but also to its durability, ability to retain heat for a long time and other positive features. However, in order to lay out such a stove, you will have to work hard. Laying takes a lot of time, and it also requires some experience. Also You will need to purchase special materials: ordinary brick will not work.

An important disadvantage of brick stove structures is their weight. A small stove designed to heat an average bathhouse can weigh up to 300 kilograms, so the foundation under such a stove will need to be strengthened. However, this drawback is compensated by the fact that such a stove is suitable for heating and two-story bathhouse, and not just to create sufficient temperature in the steam room. In addition, aesthetically, such a stove looks most attractive precisely due to its traditional appearance.

Many bathhouse owners cannot imagine their steam room without such an impressive structure.

Metal

Metal stoves are a more common option due to the fact that it is much easier to build such a structure yourself. All you need is sheet metal, tools for cutting and fastening it, and welding skills. Thanks to such a simple set metal options and have gained such wild popularity among amateur stove makers.

However, the oven cannot be made from any metal. For example, aluminum, which is so easy to work with, is absolutely not suitable for these purposes. Even when cooled, it bends easily, but if it is heated, it will warp and bend greatly. As a result, the stove will lose its shape after the first heating.

Copper is also not suitable for these purposes.. Copper furnaces are excellent to use, but this non-ferrous metal itself is quite expensive, as a result of which it turns out to be cheaper to buy a ready-made unit than to install it manually.

Steel

Steel stoves are the easiest to make due to the fact that steel is a malleable material, but not too much. Steel sheets are easy to process, but difficult to bend by hand, so they are more preferable for building stoves. But practice shows that steel furnaces have many disadvantages.

So, the steel heats up to the point where the heat becomes uncomfortable and harsh, which makes taking such a bath unpleasant. This drawback cannot be somehow eliminated, since this is the cost of using a steel case.

Among other things, a steel stove emits harmful infrared radiation, which generally negates the entire beneficial effect of the bath.

Steel stoves cool quickly, although they heat up quickly. Constant replenishment will be required to keep the temperature at least approximately the same level.

You will also have to monitor what kind of wood or other combustion sources are used to maintain heat. If you use a heat source that has a combustion temperature that is too high, the stove may become deformed and no longer look attractive.

Cast iron

Cast iron stoves are wildly popular, since cast iron, among all metals, is most well suited for the manufacture of stoves. This is due to some specific features inherent in cast iron.

So, a cast iron stove heats up quite quickly. Not as fast as steel, of course, but faster than brick. At the same time, it also warms up the steam room quickly. Compared to a brick stove structure, a cast iron stove “works” twice as fast.

Cast iron stoves maintain temperature for a long time, producing heat that is comfortable for humans. The heat is soft, the steam is moist. At the same time, there is no harmful infrared radiation, which can negatively affect health. In terms of service life, a cast iron stove can be compared with a brick one.

Cast iron is not afraid of high temperatures, so in theory it is possible to create any temperature in a bathhouse. Cast iron structures do not deform even as a result of impacts, not to mention the effects of heat. In addition, cast iron units do not rust, which is an additional advantage.

By energy carrier

As for what you can use to heat a bathhouse, there are many options. Among them there are both traditional and modern. It should be noted in advance that the manufacture of electric or combined ovens requires special skill. In the first case, you may need knowledge of engineering, in the second, the ability to combine several techniques at once in one product.

As a rule, for home sauna stoves, fuel options are selected that do not require large quantity money in the future. Energy-saving technologies or recycling of raw materials are used. This is especially true for wood stoves.

Some heat the bathhouse with chipboards left over after renovation, but this is strictly not recommended, since choosing real wood (oak, birch) is still healthier for your health.

Electrical

Electric sauna stoves appeared not so long ago. Today, factory analogues are widespread. Few people dare to make such a design on their own, for fear of making a mistake and spoiling expensive raw materials. However, much more often than electric stoves, you can find electric fireplaces. It makes no sense to make just an electric stove, since with moderate electricity consumption it will warm up the steam room for too long, and for rapid heating you will have to use too much electricity, which will negatively affect utility bills.

It is better to use the power of electrical recharge only to maintain the existing temperature in the room. Then you won’t waste much electricity, and you won’t have to struggle to get full power. electric oven, and maintaining the temperature at the desired level will become much easier.

Wood burning

The favorite option that most people prefer is wood-burning stoves. They are recognized the best option for a bath, since the vapor from real wooden firewood is good for health. Building a wood stove is the easiest: there are many designs and methods by which you can do it.

Stone wood stoves work best, however, cast iron analogues are also quite acceptable. So, a brick stove on wood does not cool down for a long time, but if you use wood long burning , then you can maintain the desired temperature all night long.

However, there may be problems with folding this option correctly. To do this, you will need the help of a professional stove maker, and there are very few of them on the market. A wood stove can be made of steel or cast iron. If you have some experience, choose cast iron. It is more difficult to work with, but the oven will be more reliable.

Gas

To date gas ovens Almost as popular as wood-burning ones. Often combined options are made, in which the stove can be fueled with both wood and gas. However, such popularity gas baths is explained not only by their ability to quickly and efficiently warm up the air in the steam room.

Gas is one of the cheapest types of fuel, so you won’t need much money to buy it. Among other things, a gas stove will not have to be removed and cleaned as often as a wood stove, since gas cannot clog the chimney or clog the fuel chamber.

Self-production gas stove- a rather complicated procedure, since many requirements will have to be taken into account, but this guarantees high safety of using the stove in the future.

If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to refuse to make a gas sauna stove, otherwise the sauna may simply turn into a gas chamber.

According to the location of the firebox

When sauna stoves were first invented, the firebox was located inside the stove and there was no thought that it could be located any other way. However, over time, people realized that small modifications can completely change the stove design itself, as well as the air quality and heat in the steam room. This is how remote fireboxes appeared. Today, there are only two options for the location of the firebox - built-in and remote.

Each option has its own pros and cons, so it is impossible to clearly determine which option is better. Each of them is suitable in a specific case, often remaining the only possible one.

Built-in

The built-in firebox is used only in cases where it is necessary to save space. It happens that you have to give up having a waiting room when it comes to a very tiny bathhouse. However, this is where all the advantages of this option end.

The disadvantages of a built-in firebox are many times greater than the advantages. Thus, the location of the firebox inside the steam room contributes to the fact that the oxygen in the room burns out, of which there is little there anyway. The only way to correct the situation is to establish a ventilation system. There will indeed be more oxygen, but this will lead to the fact that the temperature will drop significantly and the oven will have to be heated more strongly. As a result, oxygen will burn out again. It turns out to be a vicious circle.

Also, the prospect of adding firewood if the firebox is inside the steam room does not seem tempting, since accidentally jumping out coal can cause the entire bathhouse to flare up like a match.

Remote

A remote firebox is much more functional, but it requires enough space. In this case, the chamber itself, into which the firewood is thrown, is located in the room adjacent to the steam room. The advantages are obvious: there is no risk of burning from lack of oxygen, firewood is supplied from another room, so the risk of a fire is also minimized. Whatever the temperature in the bathhouse, the microclimate will still be comfortable, since precious oxygen will not burn out and the heat will not seem harsh.

The only significant disadvantage is that the bathhouse must consist of at least two rooms, that is, have a larger area. However, this minus can only be called a minus with a stretch, since few people make a bathhouse consisting only of a steam room.

Another important note: it is better to place a fire extinguisher near the firebox just in case.

According to the method of heating the heater

This point involves placing stones relative to the heat source. There are periodic and continuous heating furnaces. In continuous heating furnaces, which are more common today, the stones do not come into direct contact with the exhaust combustion products. They are placed in a special container, which is located in the steam room itself. The middle fraction stones remain clean; you can pour a little water on them to make the steam more humid. Thus, the maximum heating temperature of the stones reaches 400 degrees, the steam is dry and hard, more typical of a Finnish sauna.

A periodically heating heater looks completely different. Here, the smoke from the burning fuel passes directly through the stones, subsequently exiting through the chimney. This imposes certain restrictions: for example, You can’t wash in the bathhouse until all the fuel has burned out and all the carbon dioxide has escaped, otherwise you might get burned. In this case, the stones are heated to extremely high temperatures - 1000 degrees. Steam is generated as soon as you pour water on the stones. By the way, The stones for such heaters should be large and round.

Based on tank availability

Bathhouses are often equipped with a water heating tank on the side. This way, the heat from the side walls of the stove is not wasted, but heats up the water in the tank, which can then be used at will. The tank on the side also serves as a heat exchanger, thanks to the presence of which an optimal microclimate is achieved in the dressing room and steam room.

Another purpose of the tank is to heat the rest of the building. It happens that the bathhouse is located on ground floor Houses. After the stove has been heated, it warms up the water well, which is then distributed throughout the house through a pipe system.

You can make such improvised heating radiators with your own hands if you further study how such a system works and what it is based on. It will not be difficult to weld an ordinary tank on the side of the stove or near the chimney.

With steam generator

As for the design of the steam generator, this solution allows you to fill the room with heavy, damp steam, like in a hammam, without resorting to a complete rework of the stove. The most interesting solution is to install a mini-steam generator in addition to a homemade sauna stove, which will save space while doing its job just as well.

In addition to the above, there are several more varieties of sauna stove designs that do not fall under any classification. One of them can be a mobile oven. It has a much smaller size and weight, due to which it can be moved relatively freely from room to room. Mobile stoves are usually equipped with a built-in firebox, since a remote one would be more problematic.

Top burning sauna, or feeding, is a design in which combustion begins from the top tier of stacked firewood, gradually spreading to the underlying rows. Such designs have been used for Russian baths since ancient times, since they avoid serious heat loss at the very beginning of combustion.

Fuel exhaustion occurs gradually and smoldering occurs during the period when the steam room is hot enough, and all that is required is to maintain the temperature.

What to look for when choosing?

Before you make your final choice on any of the options, you need to evaluate it according to several parameters. Such careful preparation is required due to the fact that building a stove (especially a brick one) is a troublesome task and requires financial investment, so it is important not to make a mistake.

The assessment is made on the basis of the most obvious and common factors, and these affect both the choice of material and design.

Heating rate

How quickly the stove heats up is crucial when it comes to a sauna for year-round use. If in summer there is practically no risk that bath room does not warm up well enough, then in winter this probability is extremely high.

So, in summer you can heat a bathhouse in 3-4 hours, while in winter you will need to spend 8-12 hours on it.

It is also important how well the stove holds heat. For example, steel structure It heats up well, but cools down just as quickly, which negatively affects the time during which you can wash in the bathhouse. The controversial issue is whether it is worth heating the sauna for 3 hours in order to be able to steam in it for only an hour. Maintaining the temperature will take too much fuel, which is not sustainable from a financial point of view.

Layout

Method of heating the heater

The contact of stones with smoke from heat sources plays an important role, since it determines how quickly one can wash in the bathhouse. This affects the temperature and humidity in the bathhouse, as well as the microclimate. Some varieties are more suitable for saunas, others - for Russian baths, but recently combined options have become most popular, when you can vary the air humidity at will. Intermittent heaters with a miniature steam generator are most suitable for this.

However, if you need to receive steam only of a certain type (for example, if you are a fan of the Finnish sauna and only that), then it would be more logical to save money and build a heater without additions, but only one that would be provided with the necessary parameters.

Fuel used

Decide in advance what you want to fuel your stove with. The complexity and high cost of making a stove largely depends on this. Thus, the easiest option to implement is a wood-burning design, since there is no need to resort to technical improvements.

The optimal solution would be to combine the ability to be powered from several power sources in one furnace. For example, when one runs out, you can use another. The most popular is a combination of gas and wood fueling.

In addition to those listed, there are several more factors that are not so extensive, but also significant. These include the temperature power of the oven.

It makes no sense to make a stove that is too powerful for a small bathhouse, but a design that is too small will not cope with heating a large room. Be sure to correlate the bath area with the thermal output of your product.

The temperature of the walls of the furnace unit is also not least important. Not so long ago, so-called “cold” stoves appeared. They take much longer to warm up, but their outside temperature never exceeds 60 degrees, while inside it can be several hundred degrees higher.

Blueprints

Drawing up a drawing is an important and responsible step. Without proper education, it is almost impossible to draw up a competent drawing, and without the correct drawing it is impossible to build a good stove. Fortunately, there is a simple solution - use a ready-made scheme. They are freely available in abundance, so you can choose the most suitable one.

Another option is to order a drawing made according to your own measurements. This solution has several advantages:

• such a unit will ideally fit in the niche of the bathhouse that you have allocated for it;
• there will be all the necessary accessories (for example, a tank);
• The connection diagram of the parts, as a rule, is immediately indicated on the drawing, so you will avoid complications.

The cost of such a custom option is not so high, so you can easily afford it. The money spent on purchasing the circuit will allow you to save a lot of effort, time and nerves in the future.

Materials

Because of this, the list was reduced to only two positions: brick and metal. Stone stoves have been and remain the most preferred option for Russian baths, but metal is much cheaper and easier to work with. This has led to the fact that metal structures are gradually replacing brick ones. For self-production, it is also better to prefer a metal unit, since it is easier to make it yourself than to lay out a classic brick structure.

Brick stoves are beautiful and have high heat output. Due to the fact that they are difficult to make yourself, many people refuse to build them, but with enough experience you can make such a structure yourself.

Simple ovens look like this:

• A simple, no-frills stove looks decent and interesting despite the fact that not much time or effort was spent on its construction. Even a beginner can do such masonry.
• More difficult option, laid out by a professional craftsman. Such beauty requires professionalism, but the result is worth it. The result was a full-fledged Russian stove.

As you can see, brick is aesthetically attractive, but working with it requires some skill. Simple metal units are made by home-grown craftsmen throughout Russia, and the resulting stoves are no worse than factory ones. There are both very simple products and those with forged elements.

Metal structures made by hand have approximately this appearance. The most simple unit with a heater and everything you need will not take up much space. This stove has a built-in firebox, so it is designed for installation in the smallest bathhouse. A homemade stove design with forged elements and a tank for heating water will fit perfectly into any bathhouse.

Making forged parts will require blacksmithing skills or they can be made to order. It's up to you to choose which material suits you best.

Tools

To make a metal furnace you will need the following tools:

• welding machine for hermetic connection details;
• Bulgarian with diamond blade for cutting metal sheets;
• drill for making small holes;
• building level, assembly tape, protractor and marker for marking;
• disc for grinding metal.

For brick oven More diverse tools are used:

• various trowels and spatulas for applying mortar that holds the bricks together;
• a pick to give the bricks the required shape and break off excess pieces;
• laser building level for assessing contour lines;
• plumb line for assessing verticals;
• construction “triangle” measuring 40x40x57 cm;
• rule for removing excess mortar and leveling bricks;
• buckets and pallets in which mortars for fastening bricks will be diluted.

Design

Homemade stoves may have different finishes, which determines their appearance. However, everything depends not only on this. First of all, beauty and aesthetic appeal are determined by the care with which all work is carried out.

The most interesting may be the following presented homemade options:

As you can see, none of them metal products, since brick units look much more advantageous in design.

Where to install?

The answer to this question is obvious: in the steam room. However, in reality everything turns out to be not so simple. If a unit with a built-in firebox just needs to be installed in a steam room, then with an external one - only against the wall adjacent to the room into which the firebox will go. The firebox can also have access to the street. Then it is important to evaluate where you want the outlet to be and install the stove there.

The decision about where the installation will take place must be made at the stage of laying the foundation. This measure is due to the fact that the foundation in this place will need to be well strengthened, otherwise the floor simply will not support the weight of the stove structure and will fall apart. It will also be necessary to include in the plan mounting hole under the stove, if it has an external firebox. Otherwise, there will be serious problems with the installation.

Preparatory work

At the preparation stage, it is necessary to prepare not only the materials from which the stove will be built directly, but also the bathhouse itself. If you do not do all this well enough, then there is a high probability that the stove will not work properly. For example, heat may not be applied where it is needed, or there may be problems with smoke escaping, which can be hazardous to health.

The first step is to search for or order a drawing (possibly self-production). The drawing must contain all necessary information about the stove.

Metal preparation

This procedure is carried out after all the parts are cut out in the right sizes. It is necessary to release those elements of the future unit that heat up the most. These include the sides, top and firebox door. They are the ones who come into contact with the burning fuel.

Release is carried out as follows. First, the sheets become red-hot, after which they should not be cooled quickly. It is best to let the metal sheets cool slowly. IN cold water there is no need to omit them. After carrying out these manipulations, you may notice that the parts have warped and lost their original shape. To return them to a look close to the original, use a hammer, knocking the parts until the desired shape. If the hammer does not help or the parts become larger, then simply saw off the protruding parts.

This preventative measure allows you to avoid the stove becoming warped during the first use.

Calculations

All stove values ​​must be shown on the drawings. We are talking about how much of the foundation area needs to be strengthened and how much of the wall area needs to be protected. Based on the dimensions of the furnace, we can say that the place where the foundation is strengthened should extend 30 cm beyond the edges of the stove. For example, when making a square metal unit with dimensions of 60x60 cm, you will need to strengthen a place of 120x120 cm (30+60+30 cm on each side).

The wall must be insulated 50 cm above and beyond the stove. For example, with a stove height of 80 cm, you will need to make insulation 1.3 m high from the floor. It will also be necessary to lay a metal sheet on the place where the stove will be installed. This is done so that if something happens, the fallen ember does not cause a fire. The metal layer should protrude 1 m beyond the plane of the door.

Marking

Before starting work on cutting metal, all components will need to be marked. For this, again, the data given in the drawing is used.

Sometimes markings are done on the fly, when the unit is made up of rectangular and square elements, but even in this case It’s better to draw the boundaries with a marker. In the future it will be easier for you to cut necessary details following the marked lines.

Preparing the premises

This refers to the laying of metal sheets on the floor and walls, the calculation of which was given in one of the previous paragraphs. It is best to choose stainless steel for these purposes.. Despite the fact that it will sag under the weight of the stove, there is an advantage that completely redeems this fact - you will not encounter damage to the metal by rust, which can greatly worsen its appearance and condition.

Strengthening the foundation

There is an alternative way: choose an electric stove, which, due to the lack of fuel, will not weigh as much as gas or wood-burning options. However, this also comes with some costs.

Manufacturing

The construction of a metal stove does not cause such difficulties as a brick one, so it is logical to start the description with a simpler option.

To make a simple pipe stove, use the following step-by-step guide:

• Most in a simple way is the manufacture of a unit from logs. To do this you will need a piece of pipe at least 50 cm in diameter. The size of the cut depends on how high you want your stove to be.
• Cut a blower in the pipe with dimensions of 0.05x0.2 m.
• Cut an opening for the firebox with dimensions of 25x20 cm.
• Next, weld the fasteners for the rods that make up the heater. Fittings with a diameter of 1 cm are suitable for this.

• Secure the mesh heater made of rods.
• Opposite the heater, cut another hole for steam.
• Fill the heater with stones. It is prohibited to use granite or any stones containing mica for these purposes. Soapstone is perfect.
• Weld a cap to the diameter of the pipe on top.
• Cut a hole in the lid for the chimney. The diameter of the chimney pipe should be about 15 cm.
• Weld the chimney pipe.

Installing a brick oven will require much more materials, effort and time. Depending on the option chosen, you will need a certain amount of bricks. Make sure that the brick is fire-resistant.

Pay attention to the following diagram. It indicates the order of the bricks. Follow it to build the oven correctly. You can also use bricks to cover a metal structure. This gives the effect that your bathhouse has a brick stove, not a metal one.

Thermal insulation

Thermal insulation of the stove itself is necessary, if only because during the combustion process a lot of thermal energy is dissipated in the surrounding space. Bathhouse owners are trying their best to eliminate this drawback in order to rationally use all available heat.

Thermal insulation can be carried out in several ways:

• By installing protective metal wall screens. They will reflect heat. It makes sense to place such a screen around the heater located in the steam room. Then all the heat will not be dissipated into nowhere, but will be pumped into the steam room.
• Brick shielding. In this case, the thickness of the brick should be equal to half the standard one, that is, it is optimal to use masonry made of half bricks.

Protection for walls and floors, which is made of sheet metal and was described above, also serves as a kind of thermal insulation measure.

Safety precautions

There are two real dangers when you are in a bathhouse: getting burned or getting acne. To prevent burns, they came up with a special material - basalt cardboard.. It is placed around the heaters so that awkward movement does not lead to a severe burn, because in an atmosphere of hot air, touching the surface at the same temperature as the air can cause a serious second-degree burn.

To avoid the danger of burning, it is advised not to make a stove whose vent goes directly into the steam room. It is best to take it into an adjacent room or outside.

Also you need to check whether the ash has been removed before adding pressure, since combustion products can release carbon monoxide, which is odorless. It is not easy to understand that you are suffocating with it.

Experts share some tricks that will make the oven making process much easier:

• Don't neglect the drawing. Without it, there is a high probability of making a mistake and building an ugly and ineffective stove structure.
• Be sure to complete all prep work to reduce the risk of fire.
• Furnace repairs must be done in a timely manner to avoid the need to quickly replace your existing stove due to the impossibility of troubleshooting.
• If you plan to use the stove not only for a bath, but also for heating, provide a pipe system.
• If you are not confident that you can build a stove of decent quality, abandon this idea. A sober assessment of your abilities can save you effort, time and money and preserve your self-esteem.

Beautiful examples

• A self-made unit made of black metal with a twisted heater looks interesting and unusual. This design can decorate any steam room, regardless of its size.
• If the stove doesn't look very attractive, it doesn't mean it doesn't work well. This image clearly shows the option available in most baths. The owners did not spend much time on finishing, concentrating on the functioning of the stove.

• A metal stove with a brick lining looks traditional, but it is not so difficult to make. The brick frame in this case acts as a heat-insulating shield, allowing the temperature to remain at the original level longer.

There are many metal sauna stoves on sale, but good ones cost a lot of money. If you have sufficient experience in metal welding, you can make a furnace yourself, according to your own dimensions. Read on to learn how to make a stove for a bathhouse from metal (sheet metal), drawings and photos.

• 1 Metal stove for baths and saunas - what is the difference
• 2 Homemade stoves for Russian baths
  • 2.1 Heater: what size and where
  • 2.2 Drawings of homemade metal sauna stoves
• 3 How to make a sauna stove
  • 3.1 Drawings and diagrams

Metal stove for baths and saunas - what is the difference

There is a significant difference between the steam modes in a bathhouse and a sauna. In the sauna the air temperature is very high - from 85C and much higher. At this temperature, the humidity simply cannot be high - you will immediately get burned, and the broom will crumble in five minutes. And it is really small, about 5-15%. In a Russian steam room, the temperature stays between 55-65°C, occasionally rising to 70°C. At such temperatures, the humidity “catch up” is high - 50-60%.

One of the options for a welded sauna stove

To achieve such different tasks, different approaches to constructing a furnace are required. A sauna requires the largest area of ​​contact between the stove body and the surrounding air and acceleration of the passage of air flows along the walls. Everything is subordinated to the task of heating the air in the steam room as quickly as possible. There is a heater, but it is small, open, and is usually located above the firebox. The stones in it warm up to a maximum of 200-250°C, since they give off a lot of heat to the surrounding air. You can get a little steam from such a heater. But you don’t need a lot in the sauna - one or two ladle will give 15% humidity. I just can't stand it anymore.

In a Russian steam room, the task is different - not to overheat the room and achieve a large amount of steam. Moreover, the steam must be of a certain condition - it must consist of very small droplets. It is also called “dry” and has a high temperature - about 130-150°C. Under this condition, after soaring, the body feels light and energized. Such steam is obtained only from hot stones whose temperature is at least 500°C. To achieve it, the stones are “packed” inside the firebox - a box is placed in it - a closed heater.

Here the heater is located inside and a tank is attached on top

As you can see, there are solid design differences. They must be kept in mind.

Homemade stoves for Russian baths

What else should you keep in mind when designing a stove for the Russian steam room mode? The fact that having heated metal walls to keep the temperature within the required 60-65°C is unrealistic. Be sure to melt it. At the same time, hard IR radiation comes from the walls of the furnace and is difficult to be nearby. The problem can be solved in two ways:

It's also worth talking about seams. In homemade metal stoves (in factory ones, too, in principle), burnout often begins precisely at the seams. In production this problem bypass using bent structures. In the upper part they try to avoid seams altogether. When making a sauna stove with your own hands, you are unlikely to be able to bend a sheet of metal 6-10 mm thick, so there is only one thing left to do - make the seams as high quality as possible.

Kamenka: what size and where

Required amount stones depends on the volume of the steam room (provided that the bathhouse is properly insulated). Different sources have different recommendations with more or less amounts - from 20 to 40 kg per 1 m3. In principle, the more stones, the easier it is to obtain the required amount of steam, provided that the oven has enough power to heat them.

The problem is that the stones different breeds have different densities, and, therefore, the same mass occupies different volumes. In principle, for an average steam room with a volume of 12-14 m3, the dimensions of the heater are approximately the following: 30*40*30 mm. The parameters can be changed slightly, made wider/narrower/higher - look at the design of the stove.

The heater can be of different shapes and sizes

The ratio of the volume of the firebox to the volume of the heater is a complex thermotechnical calculation that not even every heating engineer is able to master. It is much easier to use ready-made drawings or experimentally determined proportions. At a minimum, the volume of the firebox “free” from the heater should not be less. It’s better if it’s even about 30-50% more.

A little about what part of the firebox is best to place a box for stones. Everyone has long come to the conclusion that the highest temperature is in the upper part and at the back wall. This is where it makes sense to place the container. Firstly, part of the thermal load from the arch of the firebox will be removed, and secondly, the stones will heat up well.

Don’t forget about the maintenance of the heater and the fact that water must somehow get into it. The service hatch must be positioned in such a way that you can reach the very top with your hand without any problems. far edge. And the water supply deep into the heater must be organized so as not to get burned. Typically, a tube or system of tubes is inserted, which diverge across the entire plane of the stone container. On the room side, this tube ends in a funnel. The pipe is lined with stones. When water is supplied to it, it is distributed over the surface of the heater/stones and evaporates.

Drawings of homemade metal sauna stoves

This stove was designed for a steam room 2*3*2.3 m. It was made from sheet metal 3 mm thick.

Metal stove for a bath with a closed heater

To activate combustion, it is possible to connect an additional air duct laid from the street. Other solutions include stiffening ribs (corners) welded to the sides of the firebox in the upper part of the firebox so that the metal does not bend during strong heating.

The following diagram of a metal sauna stove is made with air supplied to the upper part of the firebox. These are so-called gas afterburning furnaces. There is a metal plate welded on the back wall. Air from under the grate is supplied into the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the firebox using air ducts. This seemingly simple device solves two problems at once. Firstly, it cools the back wall, reducing the likelihood of it burning out. Secondly, the air is supplied to the upper part heated. Flue gases heated to high temperatures are concentrated there, most of which are flammable (up to 80%). When these gases mix with heated air, the combustible substances ignite, the temperature in the upper part of the firebox becomes even higher, and the stones heat up to higher temperatures. In this case (when using dry firewood) much less fuel is required. Many long-burning stoves are built on this principle, but it began to be used in sauna stoves only recently.

Furnace with secondary air supply

Approximately the same model, but without afterburning, made in a different format. The dimensions are not indicated here, but it is easier to understand the proportions and arrangement of the various elements.

Three-dimensional model of a homemade metal stove-heater

In this case, the volume of the firebox is about 130% of the volume of the heater. Normal ratio. The chimney is shifted back, which is not always good - difficulties may arise when installing the chimney - it may rest against ceiling beam- you will have to bend the chimney, which is undesirable. So think about the location of the pipe.

Even among bathhouse lovers, there is a constant debate about whether a tank for heating water in a steam room is good or bad... Some regulate the humidity by opening/closing the lid of the tank. They are happy with this option. Others say that this steam is “heavy” and take the tank out washing department, and the water is heated in it by building a heat exchanger into the firebox and connecting it to the tank with pipes. The following diagram is a stove in a metal bath with a water tank.

Drawing of a sauna stove with a water tank

The design is clever - with the help of a “spark arrestor” the path of flue gases is longer, it stays in the firebox longer, and heats the walls better. If you don't want a tank, you can put stones in its place.

Interesting option with a tank located at the back of the oven. The chimney is moved back and passes through the tank. The height of the tank is large, heat removal will be effective - the temperature of the chimney at the outlet of the tank will definitely not be high.

Option for a small stove with a large tank

The heater is interestingly designed. It is not very large, but its volume is enough for small and medium-sized steam rooms. It closes with a lid, which on the one hand is not very convenient: closing the lid after applying water to the stones will be problematic. On the other hand, it is convenient to maintain.

Furnace sections and dimensions

How to make a sauna stove

As already mentioned, the main task of this type of heating device is to quickly “catch up” to the required temperature and be able to maintain it. There is a simple solution - install a fan that will blow on the walls of the furnace, accelerating heating.

The convector casing performs approximately the same function. This is the casing around the oven body. There remains a gap of 1.5-2 cm between it and the wall of the firebox. Air is sucked into this gap from below. It passes along the walls, heats up, and at the same time cools the walls. Then it rises upward, spreading heat throughout the steam room.

Working principle of the convection casing

If the furnace body is made of thick metal, then the casing can be made of thin metal. It rarely heats up to high temperatures, and burnout does not threaten it. If in a sauna stove the heater is located at the top, above the firebox, as in the photo, then holes can be made in the body to ventilate the heater. Then part of the air that rises along the walls will enter the heater, blow on the stones and heat up even more. This type of heater is called ventilated. It is good for dry air saunas.

Drawings and diagrams

The design of sauna stoves is simpler. You need a normal size firebox that can accommodate large logs. In the upper part, above the top of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which is usually 20-25 liters. There may be variations in width/height/depth, but there are no special tricks.

Diagrams of metal sauna stoves

Installing a tank to heat water in a sauna steam room is not the best idea. You won't be able to control the humidity, and when high temperatures easy to get burned. However, there are several options for installing tanks in the photo above.

Another type of heater is inside the firebox. If desired, you can put a lid on it and this oven can be used in two modes - with the lid open for dry vaping, and with the lid open to produce more steam.

Heater inside the body