Do-it-yourself heating and cooking stoves. Do-it-yourself brick stove for the home: step-by-step instructions with photos How to fold a stove with your own hands, step-by-step instructions

Figure 1 – Stove with fireplace and stove

The stove is a very popular heating option for private homes. Of course, now there are many different heating options, but the stove still remains a very popular option for heating a house and its individual rooms. In addition, you can cook food on the stove, use it as a drying rack, a steam room in a bathhouse, make a sun lounger and sleep on it. In addition, you can come up with a number of other applications and bring them to life.

What are the advantages of brick stoves?

It has a number of positive aspects and in many situations outperforms its competitors. Here are the main advantages of this option:

1. This heating option is environmentally friendly: when laying stoves, only Construction Materials of natural origin, when heated they do not emit any harmful substances or carcinogens.
2. After firing, the stove retains heat for a long time.
3. It can be harmoniously integrated into the interior of the room.
4. It is a multifunctional product - in addition to heating rooms, you can cook food on it, use it as a dryer, and healing properties therapeutic sleep on the stove are generally known.

What should you pay attention to when choosing oven parameters and its location?

The stove is a multifunctional element; it can be used to maintain comfort in a room, cook food, heat, dry, etc. Therefore, the choice of stove dimensions and its placement in the house must be approached as seriously and responsibly as possible. The larger the oven, the more heat it will produce, and the longer it will take to cool down after firing is completed. If the house has several separate rooms located opposite each other, then it is advisable to position the stove in such a way that its sides, giving off maximum amount warmth, looked towards these rooms. It's no secret that the sides of the stove emit 3-4 times more heat than the front and back sides. This must be taken into account when designing the location of the stove in the room.

What kind of brick should be used to build a stove?

Different parts of the furnace are lined with different bricks, depending on the temperatures that will affect it:
1. The lower rows of the stove, which will not be exposed to high temperatures, as well as parts of the chimney, the smoke temperature in which will not exceed 80 degrees, can be laid out from building red brick.

2. Red stove ceramic brick. Has the best characteristics. Kiln bricks can withstand high temperatures up to 800 degrees without destruction. This brick is used to lay out the furnace part.
3. Fireclay brick. This brick is laid out inner part combustion chamber. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees. It has high heat capacity and thermal conductivity.

You cannot lay out the firebox only with fireclay bricks. It heats up very quickly and cools down just as quickly. In order for the stove to give off heat for a long time, the outer layer of the combustion chamber must be lined with stove bricks.

What mortar is needed to hold the brick together?

Different parts of the oven are lined with different types of bricks. Solution in different parts will also be different:

1. Cement-sand. The parts of the furnace that are lined with ordinary red brick are placed on ordinary mortar.
2. Mortar based on M400 cement. A solution based on this brand of cement and high-quality mountain sand is used in the construction of those parts of the furnace where the temperature will not exceed 250 degrees.
3. Clay solution. Also mixed with mountain sand. However, expensive mountain sand can be replaced with sand from ground oven or fireclay bricks.
   A very important component of the solution is clay. It is best to use red stove. When frozen, it should not crumble or crumble.
   The solution should be of medium thickness - like thick sour cream in consistency. The layer thickness should be minimal - no more than 5 mm. This is necessary so that the precious heat from the stove does not leave too quickly.

How to fold a stove with your own hands?

To carry out this work, it is best, of course, to resort to the services of a qualified professional - a stove maker, but this is not a panacea. The work can also be done on your own. You just need to stock up on knowledge and boldly get to work.
Laying can be divided into stages. We offer step by step instructions.

Stage 1 – Choosing a location for the stove

The first step is to choose a place where it will stand. This should be a place closer to the center of the room, so that when the stove heats up, it evenly gives off its heat even to the most remote corners of the room. The location of the stove should be such that it does not interfere with the passage or block the light. There should be no furniture or flammable utensils near the stove that could ignite when the stove gets too hot and cause a fire. Also, the place where it is installed should be such that it is convenient to work near it: laying firewood, taking out and throwing away ashes, working on the stove, etc. There should also be a place next to the stove to store a small armful of firewood so that you can add a couple of logs to the fire at any time.

Stage 2 – Selecting oven dimensions

Everything is simple here: the larger the stove, the more heat it will give off, the longer it will cool down and give off heat to the room over a longer period of time. However, such a stove takes longer to heat up and requires more firewood for heating.
It is faster to drown a small one, but there will be less heat from it and it will drain faster.

Stage 3 – Selection of bricks and their quantity

Next, you need to select the brick from which the stove will be laid out. It's best to take red. The number of bricks is determined by multiplying the number of bricks in a row by the number of rows. You also need to take into account possible errors and additional branches during laying.

Stage 4 – Site Preparation

If the stove is massive and heavy, then it is advisable to make a separate foundation for it. If not, then you need to prepare a flat, clean surface and cover it with roofing material. If necessary, you can make formwork from boards. The first row sets the tone for all future work, so everything must be done conscientiously.

Stage 5 – Laying the first row – the flood part

The first row is the base of the future structure. Therefore, it must be approached very responsibly. We arm ourselves with a level and, if necessary, make formwork. It is best to first lay out the first row without mortar and see what happens, and then fasten the bricks with mortar.

Stage 6 – Installation of the blower

After laying two rows, you need to install a blower door and make a cavity into which the ash from the combustion chamber will be poured. To fasten the door, tempered wire is fixed at one end into special holes in the door, the other end is fixed between the bricks in the mortar.

Stage 7 – Laying out the fire part

The fire chamber is made of heat-resistant stove and fireclay bricks. You also need to install grates through which the ashes will pour down.

Step 8 – Installing the combustion chamber door

Important stage construction work. Installed in a similar way to the blower door. The firebox door must be secured as securely as possible, because it will open and close for years to come.

Stage 9 – Laying the rows of the combustion section

Stage 10 – Installation of the slab

The stove must be laid evenly, all seams and joints must be very well coated with the solution and be sealed so that when the stove burns, smoke does not flow through the cracks into the room, and the flames do not fall on the hob.

Stage 11 – Laying the chimney

Different parts of the chimney that will be exposed to different temperatures are again lined with different types of bricks. In the process of laying the chimney, you must not forget about the chimney view and damper. The view is installed by analogy with the blower door. A narrow slot in the chimney must be provided for the valve.

When the stove is burning, the valve is pulled out and allows smoke to escape through the chimney to the street; when it is not in use or heating is completed, the valve is in the retracted position.

Stage 12 – Exiting the chimney through the roof

One of the most difficult and responsible stages. The pipe through which smoke will be removed outside the house can be of the following types:

1. Asbestos cement is one of the cheapest and most affordable options.
2. Metal.
3. Stainless steel.
4. Brick. The laying of the stove continues after the chimney, which smoothly turns into a pipe and exits above the roof.
5. Ceramic pipe is an expensive option.
6. Vermiculite pipe is a new modern solution.

Necessary tools, materials and equipment for work

To complete the work you will need the following tool:

1. Master OK.
2. Pick.
3. Building level.
4. Shovel
5. Plumb.
6. Putty knife.
7. Roulette.
8. Pliers.
9. Bulgarian.
10. Sieve.

Figure 11 – Tools required for construction work
You will also need the following materials and accessories:

1. Brick (kiln, construction, fireclay).
2. Boards for formwork.
3. Ruberoid.
4. Chimney damper.
5. Chimney view.
6. Form for mixing the solution.
7. Blower door.
8. Furnace door.
9. Cement.
10. Mountain sand.
11. Red clay.
12. Water.

Conclusion

Installing a stove in your private home is a very big and responsible job. First you need to develop a project, choose a location, make sure the foundation is reliable, or make a new foundation for the stove. It is necessary to choose the correct dimensions of the stove based on the size of the room and the purpose of the stove, and correctly position it in the house relative to the rooms. To install the stove you need to prepare different types bricks, mix a high-quality mortar. After completing all the work, you need to heat the stove and see how it works, whether the stove, valve, doors are working properly, whether the structure is hermetically sealed, etc. If minor defects are found, they will need to be eliminated as soon as the firing is completed and the stove has cooled down.

Brick kitchen slabs for home.

Based on their design, kitchen stoves are divided into simple and complex. The stoves are of simple design and have neither a hot water box nor an oven. Complex stoves include stoves that have an oven or hot water box, as well as stoves with both at the same time. The firebox of the stove can be located either on the front side or on any side. The size of the slab is influenced by the design, the size of the cast iron flooring (in a cast iron slab) and the dimensions of the stove appliances. As for the drawings of kitchen stoves, they were developed for cast iron stoves and stove appliances certain sizes. And for this stove, you cannot change the dimensions of the stove appliances.

Before you start laying, you need to buy stove appliances in accordance with the specifications. Sometimes stove appliances - hot water boxes, ovens - are produced in a handicraft way. Their dimensions must correspond to the drawings.

On the eleventh row brickwork The strapping is made from angle steel. With its help, the slab acquires a finished look, and also protects the upper working plane from destruction.

In the event that the slab does not adjoin to the chimney or heating panel, then the piping is done on all sides, if the slab is adjacent, then on three. It is advisable to lay the frame and cast iron plate on a clay-asbestos mortar. It is necessary that their upper planes are at the same level.

When the binding is done on four sides, there is no need to install any clamps on the frame. When the strapping is carried out on two or three sides, the ends of the frame are placed in the masonry of the shield, and clamps can be placed on the ends.

Kitchen stove simple design.

The plan size of the stove without oven is 51x89 centimeters, the height with an average five-millimeter seam thickness is 77 centimeters. Heat output with two fireboxes per day is 700 kcal/h. The slab is placed under a cast iron flooring measuring 71x41 centimeters. It can be connected to the chimney or heating panel in several ways: from the side opposite the firebox, and from any side.

The hole for connection to the heating panel or chimney is made in the third row of brickwork (its cross-section is 13x13 centimeters).

The combustion chamber is 26 centimeters wide and 35 centimeters high. Smoke gases wash over a cast iron decking slab. Then they descend downwards through a vertical channel having a cross-section of 13x26 centimeters (half a brick per brick) and fall into the connecting channel.

The cleaning door is installed opposite this channel.

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The oven is rude and the source of a fair amount of confusion. The fact is that “rude” or “rude” is not an established term. In Western and, partly, in South Slavic languages, rude is either simply a house heating and cooking stove, or a wood-burning stove for summer kitchen for 150-200 bricks. Well, according to acc. When searching on the Russian Internet, Dutch, Swedish, bathhouse (!), bell-type (!!) stoves, etc. appear. You can even find statements that say that there was once an outstanding stove designer, Grub.

In fact, a stove with a rough, or simply rough, is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating panel, separate from the stove according to the heat cycle, but combined technologically, i.e. they are built together (see also below). Hence the conclusion that there cannot be a bell housing - heating shields for stoves are always ducted. A do-it-yourself rough oven is easier to build than a channel furnace of equal thermal power with a single thermal cycle, requires less materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (analogous to the efficiency for furnaces) is lower. Therefore, rough houses are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some excess fuel consumption in absolute and monetary terms does not impact the budget.

Note: a heating and cooking unit made of brick for 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 bricks; the same power without a hob – 1200-1350, – 1800-2000, – 2500-3500 bricks.

Varieties

A do-it-yourself stove can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the stove, and then in appearance it is indistinguishable from the stove, pos. 1 in Fig. The rough-slab is compact, the least material-intensive, the lightest, and requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but its thermal power is limited to 10-12 kW, and then with great effort. That's why they put rough slabs for the most part in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. An important advantage of a rough slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor, if its load-bearing capacity is at least 500 kgf/sq. m.

A rough structure with an attached shield (item 2) is structurally more complex and heavier, although a simplified foundation (see below) is also suitable for it, but its thermal power is potentially greater. A wood-burning grub with an attached shield can develop up to 16-18 kW; on coal - up to 20-22 kW. The diagram of the flow of flue gases in the hood with a shield is given in pos. 3; This is how the popular Galanka stove was built. However, you need to know that there is no point in building a furnace with more than 3 revolutions: such a furnace with a single cycle will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, during construction it will be necessary to pay special attention to some of the features of rough stoves, the consideration of which is devoted to a significant part of the article.

Note: wood burning can also be done with a stove bench, see below. It is not advisable to heat such a stove with coal; the stove will overheat.

Why is it rude - rude

Visually, a rough stove can be distinguished from a stove with a later added shield due to the integrity of the structure (item 4), but in essence they are one and the same. The calculation of a heat-efficient furnace is very complex and requires quite deep knowledge of heating engineering, and the development of a furnace design based on its results also requires a solid practical experience. It is much easier to design and build a grub because its combustion (fire) part and the shield are calculated separately and then “molded” together according to the pairing rules building structures taking into account the requirements of heating engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting device will be lower, because the interaction of the thermal cycles of the fire part and the shield is not taken into account, and it is by taking it into account that it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single cycle furnace. That's why, If you live in an area with a harsh climate, a rude stove may only make sense for you as a seasonal stove for temporary use.

Firebox, shield and chimney

The main differences from a solid fuel stove are a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the firebox. The tooth traps hot gases under hob, which in a summer stove allows you to reduce fuel consumption for cooking. In the rough it is not needed, because excess heat will be used for heating.

A rough stove should have a more powerful firebox because the shield provides additional resistance to the flow of flue gases. A chimney with increased draft will not help here: the gases in the shield will immediately expand and cool. Their thermal energy will turn into a mechanical one, which will successfully fly out into the pipe. Figuratively speaking, a firebox with a chimney in a stove with a shield operates on the push-pull principle, and “push” here is a firebox of greater power. This explains the special requirements for the firebox and stove fittings, see below.

Shields

Depending on the purpose of the rough heating panels, they are made different types. Diagrams of heating panels for furnaces are shown in Fig. below; The fuel part is shown conditionally everywhere.

1. Sequential stroke with short vertical channels. The least material-intensive and easiest to build. The resistance to gas flow is greatest. The compactness and thermal efficiency of the stove are average. The most commonly used scheme;
2. Sequential stroke with horizontal channels. The dimensions and weight of the oven are the same as before. case, but building a shield with horizontal channels is much more difficult. Gas flow resistance approx. 1.5 times less. As a result, the thermal efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to install a bed, i.e. the upper channel does not heat up much;
3. Sequential stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency is the same as that of a shield with horizontal channels, the technological complexity is the same as that of a shield with short vertical channels. Occupies smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and good foundation(see below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. The best option for a home heating stove for 2-3 rooms, see below;
4. Parallel move. Highest thermal efficiency, lowest weight per unit of thermal power. The occupied area and technological complexity are the greatest. Can be used with a reduced power firebox. Optimal for adding to an existing slab without altering it.

Note: There are also shields of a series-parallel circuit or chessboard. The most complex, but also the lightest, have the least resistance to the flow of gases. Only possible variant for rough in a house with a heated attic, see below.

Special requirements

We repeat: the advantages are rough - compactness and the ability to build in existing house without major construction work. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful firebox in a furnace structure of generally the same dimensions; from excessive heat load it will quickly become unusable. If special requirements are not met:

• Furnace foundation.
• Masonry mortars.
• Methods of laying the structure of the furnace.
• The choice and methods of installing stove fittings.

Foundation

The design of the foundation for the rough is shown in Fig. The crushed stone cushion without sand bedding is leveled to the horizon before pouring. Pouring mortar M150 – cement M300 and sand 1:2. The gap between the rubble foundation and the flooring is 30-40 mm. Don't forget to support the cut joists! Leaving their ends hanging is a common but serious mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in plan should protrude onto the contour of the furnace by at least 100-150 mm.

Note: the brick bed on the foundation under the furnace is laid out with bandaging in the rows and between the rows in the same way as the first 2 rows of masonry for the furnace structure, see below.

Solutions

To fold the rough, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on lime mortar as it combines sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but the rubble must be laid only on a completely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. It is highly advisable to use mountain or ravine sand with rough grains for clay mortar. Ordinary clay - purchased from the oven, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-excavated clay, brought to the required fat content with sand, is of little use for coarse masonry.

Masonry

For rough masonry, stove bricks and, if the order (see below) is provided for, fireclay bricks are used; red worker is of the highest quality - light red in color (fully annealed), without burn marks, distortion and swelling. Dry molded brick is absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is roughly carried out following the trail. rules:

• If you are an inexperienced stove maker, each row of masonry is first laid out dry; detected defects in cutting/chipping bricks are eliminated.
• Before laying on the mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. You can’t dump all the bricks into a barrel indiscriminately!
• A 5 mm layer of mortar is applied to the bed and the base of the brick being laid.
• The brick being laid is laid with a smooth movement, slightly tilted, and moved towards the previous one so that there are no air bubbles left in the seam.
• The brick is pressed until the seam comes together to 3 mm; You can't knock!
• Between fireclay and ordinary masonry, the initial seam is 8-10 mm; after pressing – 6 mm.
• The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
• Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam is removed with a trowel (trowel).
• The recesses in the seams found after removing excess mortar are filled with mortar by pressing without transverse movements, but not by rubbing!

Those who prefer to learn visually can watch a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves below:

Video: laying a heating and cooking stove

Accessories

Fittings and grates for roughing require cast iron; doors and latches - with an installation skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Welded steel or cast iron fittings with eyes for straight lugs (laid along the corresponding furnace wall) are unsuitable in this case. However, install the doors/latches as in Fig. on the right, in the rough it is impossible; This is not according to stove rules at all. For a Dutch country house with 2.5 bricks in plan, which is heated once or twice a season, it may be fine, but not for a rough one.

It is necessary, firstly, to crimp the mustache (galvanized wire 2-3 mm) with a twist so that it does not move. Press lightly at first, place it at the desired angle (from the far end of the mustache to inside masonry must remain at least 12 mm). Then tighten carefully and shake the door/latch slightly. Didn't leave? Good. Then, secondly, you need to tightly wrap the skirt with asbestos cord (or basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing accessories into the oven.

Video: installing the oven door

Video: grates and stove

Design examples

The figure below shows the order of a simple rough wood for a seasonal dacha or temporarily inhabited house. A special feature is the minimal use of fireclay bricks (highlighted by textured filling), which, generally speaking, is difficult to do without in rough wood, and a niche above the hob. In cold weather, it speeds up cooking, and, if it is already warm enough outside, it prevents the stove from overheating the room while cooking.

On the trail. rice. – the arrangement of a single-burner hob is also compact and light, but more complicated, with a combined channel system. This is an option more suitable for a hunting lodge or a summer cottage where weekends are spent in winter.

Next in Fig. – arrangement of the house heating and cooking system with switching to winter and summer operation (two-way). This stove is quite complex, but quite economical both in winter and summer. Option for a permanently inhabited cottage or one-room house.

On the trail. rice. – order and drawings of a heating stove (firebox door can be glass) for a house of 2-3 rooms. In a 2-room apartment, this rug is placed in a wall, and in a 3-room apartment, the front faces the living room and the rear opens into 2 rooms adjacent to it; the partition between them is located on the back side (back) of the stove. Agree, 650 bricks for a heating stove for a 3-room house is not much.

Now - in Fig. Below is a rough diagram and order of the stove bench: a cooking area in the kitchen/hallway with a bathroom; bed - in the living room. This is already a very complex design for an experienced stove maker. For heating in warm weather, the bed is covered with a feather bed, etc., so that the room does not overheat, but then the windows in the kitchen/hallway will have to be kept wide open, because... switching to summer speed is not provided.

And finally - rough, so to speak, aerobatics, see fig. below: for a house with a heated attic, where an additional panel with staggered channels is located (in the inset below on the right). This stove can also be a fireplace stove if the firebox door is made of glass. It is 2-way; ZLH in the drawings is a summer valve.

About chimneys

The chimney for rough must meet all the rules fire safety. Here it is only necessary to note that best chimney for coarse - sandwich, because it also does not require additional capital construction work.

Finally

If this is your first oven (which is quite possible), do not rush to build, model it on the table first. Suddenly you have a little extra money - you can buy a set for modeling stoves with layout diagrams and plastic bricks to scale, they sell these. No – bricks can also be cut to scale from foam plastic. Then it is convenient to imitate masonry seams using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard, depending on the selected scale.

There are many options for heating a summer house today: centralized gas, boilers, electric heaters.

But if all this is not possible to implement due to the area’s remoteness from civilization, a DIY brick stove for a summer house will become great solution.

Reliable and durable - it will gather around itself more than one generation of households, providing the house with warmth and filling it with comfort.

The services of a good stove maker are not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, if you decide to implement a project at your dacha brick oven, it will be useful for you to read this article, in which we will tell you about the operating principle, features and layout of the furnace structure.

A brick oven can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior, if it is properly beaten. Today there are many ways to beautifully veneer and decorate a stone stove.

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove designs and no matter how far home heating technologies have come, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to retain heat for another day after the firewood burns out.

According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:

• heating;
• cooking;
• multifunctional;
• combined.

• combustion chamber, which is purchased already in finished form, or laid out with fireclay bricks;
• an ash pit where ashes are collected;
• chimney.

This type of design also includes a fireplace with an open or closed firebox. It is used not only in decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room with an area of ​​15-20 square meters. meters.

Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating stoves may have different heat output.

The most popular type of stove is the one-brick design. This allows the walls to be heated to 60 0 C. The famous Dutch ovens are laid out according to this scheme.

In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and full-bodied, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.

Tiled tiles are usually used for lining such a stove. decorative plaster, decorative rock.

Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but a beginner cannot implement this option, since it requires a lot of experience. Of great difficulty is the cutting of bricks and the requirements for maintaining an angle strictly at 60 0.

Round stoves, which are laid out according to the design of the famous Russian furnace engineer V.E. Grum-Grizhimailo, also look beautiful and unusual. The furnace operates on the principle of free movement of gases. To ensure tightness, the outside of the structure is lined sheet metal. Such a stove can heat a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

The design of the stove consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, an ash pan, and a chimney. There is a metal plate on top (an oven can be built in).

1. A heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional design.

This is a more difficult project to implement, as it consists of:

• combustion chamber;
• chimney;
• ash pan;
• hob;
• oven.

The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for summer cottages, where there is no other heating option.

In our country, heating and cooking stoves are the most popular, allowing you to heat the house and cook a delicious dinner for the whole family.

It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, in this chamber you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes.

By the way, ovens with drying chambers was first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen needed to dry their clothes and boots in one night.

Many schemes of heating and cooking stoves have additional devices in the form of a comfortable stove bench, a dryer for firewood, an oven, and a hot water tank.

Construction of a stove for a summer residence and its features

The main elements of any brick stove for a summer residence are:

10 basic rules for laying a country stove

Which brick stove to choose for your dacha?

The choice of stove design determines the size and type of room. For large cottages, you will need a massive stove structure with thick walls, which will take a long time to heat up, but at the same time can long time maintain temperature. Building such a stove is not an easy task. This will require some experience and knowledge.

But even a beginner can handle a small stove for heating a small dacha if you strictly follow the diagram and do not change the laying rules.

The first place in the popularity of heating and cooking stoves is worthily taken by the Swede, which enjoys well-deserved love and respect among Russian stove makers.

This design is a compact, ergonomic shape with a small cooking surface and a three-channel chamber. It is ideal for a small cottage, the length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.

For the location of such a stove, the place most often chosen is between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, the stove performs a double function: it serves for cooking and decorates the living room with a fireplace.

Today you can find hundreds of different layouts for laying a Swedish stove with a hob on the Internet, so it won’t be difficult to implement it for your dacha. Many stove makers have added additional options to the standard masonry scheme, so each design is called by the name of its creator: the Buslaev, Kuznetsov stove, etc. But the principle of operation in them is the same.

Traditionally, a Russian stove can be called a bulky massive structure, which is decorated not only hob with an oven, but also a spacious bed.

This stove is not only a functional device for cooking, but also a place for relaxation. It allows you to warm up the room well, retaining heat for a long time, and has a beneficial effect on the human body, thanks to which the owners of such stoves are less susceptible to colds.

The building usually has two fireboxes (main and additional). Due to the special design of the furnace, heating is carried out evenly, from the bottom up. Any kind of kindling is suitable solid fuel, and there are no particularly strict requirements for materials for laying a Russian stove.

A special place among small heating and cooking stoves is occupied by the little V.A. Potapova, created by a famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. For its masonry, only 211 bricks are needed, and the dimensions of the furnace are only 630 * 510 mm.

Moreover, this little thing contains a single-burner stove, a small oven for baking and a hood. This type of stove would be an excellent solution for a small garden house or one-room cottages.

In this article, we suggest that you study the rules and highlights of laying a small heating and cooking stove.

Do-it-yourself stove laying

Step 1. Select a brick and prepare tools

Which brick to choose for laying a small country stove? We will need 2 types of bricks: fireclay (heat-resistant) for the construction of a firebox and red ceramic (not lower than M-150). You shouldn’t skimp on materials; further developments depend on it. operational properties, oven safety and efficiency.

Fireclay bricks can be easily recognized by their yellowish color and porous surface. The composition of this material includes refractory clay and crumbs. This material, in addition to its heat-resistant properties, is also valued for its ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the complete attenuation of firewood, such a stove is able to give off heat for a long time.

Heat-resistant fireclay bricks can withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C, so the combustion chamber should be laid out exclusively from this material.

The smaller the mass of fireclay bricks, the greater the number of pores it contains, which creates aluminum oxide. Such a brick will conduct heat very well. The cost of this material is almost 5 times the price of red brick, but there is no need to save.

But laying out the entire oven from fireclay bricks is also not worth it, the outer part of the structure does not heat up much, and the red ceramic brick looks more attractive.

When choosing bricks for the stove, pay attention to color and shape.

You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters and it doesn’t break, take this batch. But a bad, overexposed brick can split into several parts. Such a brick makes a dull sound when falling.

The brand of brick for lining the furnace should be M150 or M200. The number in this case means how much weight the brick can withstand per 1cm 3 .

Do not use sand-lime or hollow bricks. It's not even about the ability to withstand high temperature– they can handle this. Sand-lime brick It conducts heat poorly and a room with such a stove will not be very comfortable.

For masonry mortar you will need sand, red oven clay and water. It directly depends on its quality and consistency. appearance and durability of the oven. To prepare it, you should use red oven clay of medium liquid. When frozen, it should not fall off or crumble.

The masonry will be made with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in this case the precious heat will not escape quickly.

You can also use ready-made masonry mortar for construction, which is sold in stores. Usually it contains various impurities that add strength and heat resistance to the structure. In this case, it will be enough to dilute the dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state using a construction mixer.

The consistency of this solution should resemble thick sour cream. If the mortar rolls off the trowel, you need to add more dry mixture. If it turns out to be too thick, then it will be difficult to work with it and make thin seams. Add some cold water and stir again.

So, to build a furnace, we will need the following materials:

• Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
• Red ceramic brick M150 – 120 pieces.
• Fireclay bricks – 40 pieces.
• Foundation material (cement, graphite, sand).
• Ruberoid.
• Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
• Plywood or boards for creating formwork.
• Reinforcing mesh for foundation construction.
• Grate.
• Metal stove for one burner (cast iron).
• Ash pan and ash pan (blower) door.
• Cast iron firebox door.
• Chimney duct damper.
• Chimney view.
• Metal chimney cap.

Tools needed to build a furnace.

• Building level.
• Shovel
• Construction marker.
• Goniometer.
• Spatula, rule.
• Master OK.
• Measuring tape (roulette).
• Construction plumb.

Important! When laying a furnace, much depends on the quality of the clay. Ideally, use red river clay of medium fat content, which has been on outdoors at least 2 years. Make exactly as much solution as you can handle in “1 go”. The solution quickly becomes thick and difficult to work with.

Step 2. Preparing bricks for laying the stove

Before starting to lay the stove, it is necessary to lay out all the bricks in advance and prepare them according to the ordering scheme.

This stage includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts and cutting off the corners.

Study the diagram carefully and see which pieces of bricks you will need for each row.

If necessary, you can number the brick so that later it is easy to navigate which row to insert it into.

How to properly split a brick? Before “beating off” the required part of the brick, according to the diagram, you first need to make a groove. This can be done using a hacksaw or file.

To make ½ brick, make 1 groove.

For 1/6 or 1/8 brick, make a groove on all sides of the brick.

Step 3. Choosing a location for the stove

This is very milestone in laying the furnace, which is advisable to do even at the stage of building a house.

But there are times when the decision to lay a stove arises among home owners already in the process of using the dacha. In this case, determine the place where it will be easiest to remove the chimney.

It is also important to evaluate the distance between the stove and windows and doors. After all cold air Air blowing from doors can interfere with the natural circulation of heat in the home, reducing the efficiency of the stove.

In addition, the stove should not interfere with free movement around the room. It should become one with the space without creating inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the stove depends on the purpose.

The heating and cooking model is best placed in the kitchen, and the fireplace stove will look beautiful in the living room.

• The distance to the nearest wall should be at least 25 cm.
• The chimney must not pass through beams.
• The floor and wall will have to be lined with fire-resistant material.
• It is better to place the fireplace near the inner wall of the house. To increase efficiency, it makes sense to install a stove in the space between the kitchen and living room. Thus, one stove will heat two rooms at once.

An excellent place to place the stove is the corner of the room, only if there is no Entrance door, from which cold air will blow out the flame.

Step 4. Construction of the foundation

To build a brick kiln, it is necessary to make a separate foundation. If it is laid during the same cycle as the construction of a house, completing it is not a difficult task.

If you decide to lay the stove after the completion of the general construction, then it will be necessary to remove part of the finished floor and go deep into the ground.

Why is it so important to perform a separate foundation? A brick oven, no matter what size it is, has a lot of weight, which will create high pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will sag. This should in no way affect the shape or design of the stove.

That is, the general foundation of the house should not pull the stove along with it, as this can lead to a violation of its sealing and deterioration of its technical properties.

Attention! Before laying bricks on the mortar, lay out all the bricks “dry”. First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, you will be able to see difficult moments at the draft stage that you will have to pay special attention to.

Step 5. Laying the stove

Attention! Before laying the stove, place the bricks in a bowl of cold water so that they absorb moisture. This way they will not draw water from the masonry mortar.

Fill this gap with sand. The entire area under the stove will be practically occupied by grates, which will ensure good and easy care of the stove, as well as complete burning of the wood.

We block the ash door with a brick.

Installation of the combustion door

Install combustion door, having previously wrapped it with asbestos cord. To make it easier to install, place the door on a thick wire and support it with bricks on both sides. Then these bricks will need to be removed.

• 6th row. Closes the furnace door.

Here we begin to form a smoke channel pipe, creating overlaps for two vertical channels.

We lay the base of the firebox, which is made of fireclay bricks.

• From rows 7-9 we lay out the firebox with fireclay bricks according to the diagram.

In this row, two bricks covering the grate should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

• Row 10 - cover the oven. We create a partition from brick, raising it by 2 cm. Apply a clay-sand mortar to the oven, to the level of the partition. We are preparing a place for installing a hob.

It is necessary to make recesses in the bricks for reliable fixation with the slab and create thermal niches for the expansion of the metal. Immediately place the slab on a dry surface and number the bricks - this will make it easy for you to later lay the brick on the mortar and avoid making mistakes with the correct recesses for the slab.

We lay an asbestos strip on the brick (to expand the metal).

Step 6. Exit the chimney through the roof

This is a responsible step that should ensure complete safety of the furnace operation.

Follow the SNIP standards when installing a brick pipe through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.

Insulation is required around the pipe passage through the roof. thermal insulation materials. This will ensure reliable protection from blowing cold air and will provide reliable fire safety.

If the oven is installed in a residential building with a finished roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roof. After installing the pipe, you will need to completely ensure the integrity of the roof in this place so that during rain or snow, moisture does not get inside.

To waterproof a stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The joining of slate and metal plate is done using sealant.

If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to make using steel sandwich pipes. They have a stylish look and are easy to assemble. In addition, they have much less weight than brick and will not create as much pressure on the foundation.

When determining the required height of the chimney, be guided not only by the height of the roof, but also by the height of the ridge.

The efficiency of heating the room and the presence of draft directly depend on correctly calculated parameters.

The edge of the pipe must protrude above the “ridge” of the roof by at least 0.5 meters, otherwise the turbulence that forms around the roof can prevent good draft and will constantly blow cold air into the chimney.

We complete the construction of the chimney with a metal grate. It will prevent debris from entering the chimney.

We put a metal cap on top, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Furnace lining

There are many ways to beautifully veneer a stove for a summer cottage.

As decorative material clinker tiles, tiles, decorative plaster, artificial stone, etc. can be used.

Or you can simply leave the stove in its original form, especially if you bought high-quality, beautiful brick.

Keep in mind that any facing material reduces heat transfer. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the stove with a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Lighting the stove

After completely lining the furnace, you need to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dried. Leave the door wide open.

When you are sure that the masonry mortar is completely dry, you can carry out the first test firing of the stove. There is no need to rush and immediately, after laying, light the firewood.

Premature kindling damp oven may lead to cracking. For the first time, use ¼ of the firewood, add small logs. This will allow the structure to dry well from the inside. Do not exceed maximum temperature at 60-65 degrees in the first week of operation.

• Do not use trash for kindling.
• The firebox door must be closed when lighting.
• Warm up the oven gradually, do not immediately turn on high heat.
• Use high-quality, well-dried firewood.

For ease of use of a country stove, you can make a stylish one with your own hands, which will become a decorative and functional element in your home.

As you can see, if you follow a clear ordering scheme, it is not so difficult to build a beautiful and high-quality country stove.

Video: Laying a dry brick oven

Below we provide detailed master class on laying a brick stove for a summer cottage.

Video. Master class on laying a stove for a summer residence

How to make a brick stove with your own hands - an introduction to the topic of stoves for the home, as well as detailed instructions with drawings and step-by-step descriptions, useful tips.

Classification by intended use

1. Heating. Such stoves are used only for heating a room as a sole or additional heater. Heating stoves circulate and heat the air.
2. Heating and cooking. Such stoves can be used to warm up the room and for cooking instead of a stove.

Classification depending on design

Straight-through.

The operating principle of such furnaces is as follows: air moves into the ash pan, goes up and, bypassing the grate, exits through the pipe.

Disadvantages of once-through furnaces:

• Low efficiency, due to the fact that along with cold air, warm air also leaves the furnace, which could still be used to heat the room.

Pros:

• Due to the fact that such stoves are made of brick, which retains heat well, the room warms up evenly and retains heat.

Duct.

This type of furnace is an improved direct-flow furnace. That is, due to the many channels, warm air does not immediately go into the pipe, but, following them, warms the room. When installing channel furnaces, the linear dependence of the coefficient should be taken into account useful action on the length and number of channels.

Bell bells.

Such stoves serve to retain heat in a room. Warm air, in accordance with the laws of physics, tends upward, where the cap holds it. As the air currents cool down, they become heavier and fall down. And, since the cold air is no longer needed, it comes out through the undercoat.

Advantages of bell furnaces:

• They ensure uniform heating of the room due to their design.
• Soot can be easily removed, as it accumulates in one place - under the hood.

Classification depending on material

brick

Pros:

• Autonomy. That is, having “refueled” the stove once, you don’t have to worry about it for a long time.
• Heat retention. Brick structures They conduct heat poorly, so it stays in them for a long time.

Minuses:

• They take a long time to warm up.

Cast iron

Pros:

• Easy to install and does not require a foundation.
• Not fire hazardous.
• Compact.
• Heat up quickly.
• Huge selection of stoves according to external data.
• No additional lining required.
• There are automatic cast iron stoves, which independently regulate the temperature.
• High efficiency.
• Performance is relatively less dependent on the amount of fuel.
• Low price.

Minuses:

• They cool quite quickly and require additional heating.

Preparatory work, necessary materials and tools for work

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's look at the preparation:

• Foundation. If the stove is designed to be large (more than 500 bricks), then you need to build an additional foundation for it. If the oven is small, this is not necessary.
• Thermal insulation is mandatory for all types of stoves: both large and small.
• Chimney. Under no circumstances should the chimney be adjacent to the ceiling beams. Also, the distance between it and all beams should be approximately the same.
• Pipe. The projection of the pipe must be half a meter higher than the roof, but no more than one and a half meters.
• Furnace location. The location should be chosen in accordance with the data on the pipe and chimney, that is, take into account what will be located above the stove.

If these points are taken into account, then there are a few more tips:

• It is better to position the stove so that it heats as many rooms as possible. For example, if the house has several adjacent rooms, it is better to place the stove not in one of them, but between them, so that it heats everything.
• If you need to heat one room, then it is better to place the stove closer to the wall, but not right next to it.

Tools and materials

Materials:

• Clay (for making masonry mortar).
• Sand.
• Brick. Red fireproof. Fireclay.
• Pipe.
• Gravel.
• Tree.
• Cement.
• Ruberoid.
• Grate grate.
• Angle steel.
• Roofing steel.
• Wire.
• Nails.
• Steam valve.
• Oven.
• Doors (for the cooking chamber, ash chamber, combustion chamber).
• Cast iron tiles.

Tools:

• Furnace hammer.
• Ruler.
• Master OK.
• Pick.
• Square.
• Plumb.
• Level.

Design and drawings.

How to build a stove with your own hands? There are main types of structures:

Pros:

• Efficiency can reach 80 percent.
• It keeps warm for a very long time, in some cases – two days.
• The firebox surrounds the fire on all sides and reduces the level of fire hazard of the structure.

Minuses:

• Big size.
• It weighs a lot.
• Long warm-up time.
• After the break, daily heating is required.
• Has the most complex design of all possible types ovens.

A Russian stove is suitable as a constant source of heat, will completely replace and even surpass a stove, and can even serve as a bed, but such a stove has huge dimensions, and its installation must be justified.

The oven is Dutch.

Belongs to the channel type.

Pros:

• Simple masonry
• It takes up relatively little space, as it has an elongated shape.
• Heats up quickly.
• Weighs relatively little.
• Allows cooking.
• No need to heat regularly to maintain performance.

Minuses:

• Cools down quickly.
• Low efficiency.

It turns out that a Dutch oven is not suitable as the main source of heat and will not be able to heat a large room. But such a stove is convenient for small rooms and irregular use.

Regular rectangular.

Pros:

• Doesn't take up much space.
• Simple design.
• Low prices for materials and fuel.

Minuses:

• Average efficiency.
• Doesn't keep warm for very long.

A regular rectangular stove is an average option that is suitable for standard heating of a not very large room.

The stove is Swedish.

Belongs to the heating and cooking type.

Pros:

• Allows cooking.
• High efficiency.
• Fast heating.
• “Saves” fuel.
• Relatively small in size.
• Exist modern options with oven, hob, a place to dry clothes.

Minuses:

• Acceleration firing is required.
• It has complex masonry for a beginner.

A Swedish stove is suitable as the main source of heat in a room, can completely replace a stove and has many design options, but it is difficult to assemble.

Pros:

• Very low fire hazard.
• Aesthetic.
• High efficiency.
• Heats the room evenly.

A stove with a fireplace is suitable both for home decoration and for intended use as a heater.

Blueprints

How to build a stove with your own hands? First, let's draw up the drawings. In order to draw up drawings, you need to know what must be included in the furnace.

• Foundation.
• Frame.
• Chimney.

The oven consists of the following levels:

1. Foundation
2. Rubble masonry.
3. Bookmark depth.
4. Waterproofing.
5. Furnace array.

Array composition:

• Six.
• Undercoat.
• Sub-bake.
• Dushnik.
• Overlap.
• Valve.
• Half door.

Pipe composition:

• Overlap.
• Cutting.
• Insulation.
• Otter.
• Header.
• Metal cap.
• Pipe riser.
• A metal sheet.
• Pipe neck.

Orders - a detailed diagram of the laying of a brick stove.

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's look at how to do this using the example of a Russian stove.
Row number..

1. Designed for waterproofing foundations. Lay beveled bricks and ¾. During laying use cement-sand mortar.
2. The second row represents the bases for the walls of the care area.
3. The third row is the walls of the guardhouse (3/4 brick).
4. The fourth row is the support support.
5. The fifth row is located in the corners to create support for the arch. Also use this row to lay out the baked goods.
6. The sixth row is laid out according to a wooden template, which will be a temporary arch for the guardianship.
7. The row for the vault begins to be laid from the edges to the middle. The center brick is driven in with a mallet to ensure strength. Also, bricks should be placed as close to each other as possible, and brick fragments should be placed in the openings between them.
8. The walls of the mantle consist of bricks from this row.
9. The walls of the stove and the walls of the cold stove are laid out in this row.
10. The final row for guardianship. Fill the gaps between the bricks with sand for insulation.
11. Strengthening the roof of the guardhouse with the addition of beveled bricks.
12. The use of clay-sand cement begins. Shetsk masonry. The brick should lie flat, but then you still need to sand it.
13. The bricks of this row will become the hearth and cooking chamber. Additional installation of the mouth arc.
14. Walls of the hearth and furnace.
15. Walls of the hearth and furnace.
16. Walls of the hearth and furnace.
17. Fold down the supports for the roof of the cooking chamber.
18. It is made of refractory bricks with a vault.
19. Pole walls.
20. Pole walls. Fill the gaps with sand.
21. Laying the furnace, the beginning of the samovar.
22. End of the ceiling. Installation of a choke.
23. Samovar canals and over-pipe.
24. Same channels.
25. Additional channel for views.
26. Same channels.
27. Half door installation.
28. Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
29. Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
30. Connection of pipe and vent.
31. Installation of the valve.
32. Pipe laying.

33+ pipe laying.

How to build a stove with your own hands: description of the process.

1. Lay the foundation of.
2. Place the first row (along the cord).
3. Place the next rows using a level.
4. Control corners using body kits.
5. From rows 1 to 11 use cement-sand mortar, then clay-sand mortar.
6. The pipe is removed at the end of all work.

How to build a stove with your own hands from brick video:

• Follow the instructions carefully during installation.
• Choose a drawing that suits your needs.
• Place the stove not close to the walls, but not in the center of the room (unless, of course, it is a traditional Russian one).
• Be careful when transporting fire bricks as they are very fragile.
• The side walls of the oven are the warmest, so place them closer to the areas that need to be thoroughly heated.
• Don't forget about automated ovens that will control the temperature.

Laying any of the stoves discussed above will not cause difficulties with careful planning and perseverance. Good luck!