Rose bloom is a real delight for a gardener. You can endlessly admire the intricate curves of pink petals and their shades, inhaling the delicate aroma of roses. But an experienced owner beautiful flower knows: in order to guarantee this pleasure for several years, the noble and sensitive plant must be properly cared for. With the onset of autumn it is required Special attention. Preparing for winter in caring for roses is a crucial moment for the gardener. The growth and development of the flower next year depends on the correct provision of wintering conditions. When preparing roses for winter, two points are important: first, how to prune roses for the winter and second, how to cover roses for the winter. First things first.
In order for your favorite roses to withstand harsh conditions and low temperatures well, you should prepare your plants for winter in advance.
The main autumn types of work on caring for and preparing roses for winter:
- The plant is gradually reduced, and in the second half of August watering is stopped.
- Roses are delicate flowers. Their young shoots are not able to maintain viability, so it is necessary to “help” the plant to stop the appearance of new shoots and begin the process of lignification of the main shoots. To do this, from the last week of August we adjust the feeding. We make sure that nitrogen is not present in the fertilizers used, and, on the contrary, we give preference to potassium and phosphorus during this period.
- At the same time, we admire the roses only in the flowerbed; we do not allow them to be cut. It is necessary for the plant to complete the growing season, from budding to drying. Do not rush to remove faded buds! The ripening of seeds after flowering is a signal for the rose: winter is approaching, the flowering of this season is over.
- Removing foliage is another essential element that includes preparing roses for winter in the fall. Roses are not deciduous plants, so the gardener removes the leaves. Whether you carefully pluck the foliage or carefully cut the leaves, it doesn’t matter, either method is allowed. The main thing is not to leave foliage on the plant, which can lead to an infectious disease.
- Continuing prevention, the bushes and soil are treated. Any fungicide can be used for the plant; you can also use a solution iron sulfate. Thoroughly clean the soil under the rose bush, leaving no weeds or fallen leaves. After this, the soil can also be treated with a fungicide.
Carrying out pruning
Preparing roses for winter: pruning
An important preparation stage rose bush for the winter period - pruning roses in the fall. A few shoots remaining after pruning are easier to withstand a cold winter than a whole bush. Plants that were left to overwinter entirely were subsequently weakened and often susceptible to disease. It should be carried out in compliance with certain rules so as not to harm the flower.
The optimal time for pruning is the third ten days of October. It is advisable to carry out the procedure in dry, sunny and windless weather.
Prepare tools in advance: sharpen pruning shears and a hacksaw, which is used for the thickest shoots.
After carefully examining the bush, you must be sure to trim off all the upper parts, which may be susceptible to bacterial diseases. If the plant has small unopened buds, they are also pruned, like diseased branches.
It is necessary to cut out young stems that are not woody. It is these shoots, if left, that can rot and then infect the entire bush with fungal diseases.
So, the strongest, most powerful and well-developed shoots are left for the winter. It is enough to leave 3 to 5 shoots for the winter, trying to ensure that they are evenly spaced.
Video “Pruning and covering roses for the winter”
Rules for pruning roses for the winter
Inexperienced flower growers often ask the question, how to prune roses for the winter? Experts distinguish the following types of rose pruning for the winter:
- Short.
For polyantha (multi-flowered, forming a strong bush) roses, short pruning is used. The shoots are removed almost completely, leaving only the base for the winter (2-3 cm from each shoot). At the same time, make sure that dormant rose buds also remain (2-3 per bush).
- Average
For hybrid tea roses use medium or moderate pruning. Weak shoots are removed completely. The height of the woody shoots left is 25-30 cm, the number of dormant buds on them is 4-5.
- Long
When preparing for winter, park, English and Bengal roses undergo long or gentle pruning. The same type is suitable for tall hybrid tea roses. In this case, only a third of the stem is removed, leaving 8 to 10 buds on the remaining part.
Regardless of the method, when pruning, an oblique cut is made over a bud that has swollen but not sprouted. The distance between such a bud and the cut site is from 0.5 to 1 cm.
Pruning is completed by processing the shoots left for the winter. To do this, use any available disinfectant. After processing, the rose bushes are hilled and the next stage of preparation is moved on - covering the roses.
Covering roses for the winter
How to cover roses for the winter
In order for roses in the garden to feel comfortable in winter, survive the winter safely and withstand the winter cold, they need to be covered. Roses are covered when cool weather finally sets in, and during the week the temperature does not rise above +5°. The rose can also tolerate light frosts.
Let's look at how to preserve roses in winter. You can cover roses in different ways.
Prikopka
Having chosen this method, first of all, soil is used to cover the roses. The bush first buries itself to a height of 20 to 40 cm. Some gardeners completely bury the entire bush. But after the first layer of cover - hilling - you can use dry leaves, wood shavings or sawdust, as well as spruce branches. They cover the upper parts of the shoots, which, after hilling, are above the ground.
Air (dry) shelter
With this method, the roots of the plant are also insulated with a layer of foliage or pine needles. And a bush pruned for the winter is preserved using a specially constructed structure, a kind of frame or a protective dome. Its purpose is to protect the rose from wind and frost by creating a suitable air environment inside.
A frame structure is installed above each bush at a height of up to 0.5 m. You can also build a frame over the entire flowerbed or rose garden.
In practice, a variety of types of frame structures are used: pyramidal, spherical, cubic. For the frame, you can use metal rods or arcs used in garden beds.
Having built the frame, you need to attach insulation material to it. Suitable material Can be kraft paper, burlap followed by a layer of film. IN last years gardeners are increasingly using non-woven fabric as insulation and are satisfied with the results of its use. The main task is to carefully and securely fasten the insulation so that during windy weather and precipitation the structure will protect the rose from rain and snow.
Wrap
Tall roses can be covered differently for the winter by wrapping each plant in non-woven fabric - lutrasil. In this case, a metal rod will also be needed. It will serve as a support for the stem. Wrapping begins with hilling the roots. Then the rose shoots are wrapped with insulation and secured properly, securing the cocoon from below to prevent access to cold air.
Video “How to cover roses for the winter”
Features of covering roses of different types
Experienced gardeners have developed rules on how to cover for the winter. Using their tips will help prepare your roses for winter.
climbing rose
Climbing roses do not have their stems trimmed. Sheltering a climbing rose for the winter requires only pinching out healthy shoots before wintering, and only diseased shoots are cut out. Long rose lashes require careful handling. In preparation for winter, the shoots of climbing roses are sprinkled with earth. But before the lashes end up on the ground, you need to prepare a place for them. To do this, layers of sand and spruce branches are poured onto the ground. The lashes removed from the support are carefully placed on the prepared “pillow”, and then the spruce branches are used again to cover the rose. The procedure is completed with a film, which is fixed over the spruce branches.
You can make a tourniquet from the lashes, which is placed on a prepared wire frame. A protective canopy made of wood or lutrasil is placed on top, and then also covered with film.
Park rose
Many varieties of park roses are frost-resistant, so they do not require special wrapping. However, young bushes of park roses need to be covered for the winter. Park rose shelter for the winter is carried out in case of unfavorable weather forecasts and the expectation of abnormal frosts.
The most suitable thing for park roses is digging or dry shelter.
Hybrid tea rose
Hybrid tea rose will tolerate low temperatures well in winter using standard methods of preparing for the cold season. Standard hilling or framing will help the rose bush survive the winter. The use of spruce branches increases the level of comfort for hybrid tea roses in winter.
Video “Winter shelter for climbing roses”
Where you grow matters
Rose has her fans in every corner of our country. In this case, the location of the flower does not matter. But when preparing for winter, the region where the rose grows cannot be ignored. Different climatic and natural conditions, different timing of the onset of cold weather make their own adjustments to the standard procedures for preparing plants for winter.
- Sheltering roses for the winter in the Moscow region is usually done at the end of October.
Other dates are possible, the main thing is the onset of stable temperatures within a week (+5-7°).
- But sheltering roses for the winter in the Urals is carried out in September, since a decrease in air temperature occurs earlier in the region.
Ural winters are more severe, so roses require a multi-layer cover that will help protect the plant during severe frosts. However, with the onset of thaws, such a “blanket” can lead to the accumulation of moisture and rotting of the plant. The following method of preparing roses for winter in the Urals helps to avoid this. The shoots prepared for wintering and hilled up are carefully bent so that they take an arched shape. Cover the top with spruce branches, leaves, cut raspberry shoots, etc. The resulting natural greenhouse is covered on top using tarpaulin, roofing felt, and synthetic materials. The ends are left slightly open, allowing ventilation inside the shelter.
Separately growing roses can be preserved by constructing a special box from cardboard boxes. Around the trenched bush, cardboard walls about 50 cm high are made from boxes, so that the embedded shoots do not rise above the cardboard walls. Cover the roots of the rose and the empty space in the box around the bush with dry foliage, pine needles, straw, shavings, sawdust, and cover with spruce branches. A frame with lutrasil is installed on top of the box with the rose. This structure helps preserve roses in the Ural winter.
Having become familiar with the rules for preparing roses for winter, you will be able to create for the plant comfortable conditions. This means that next summer you will again enjoy the beautiful color and delicate aroma of your favorite flower.
Most gardeners lovingly and skillfully care for the queen rose. However, the natural and climatic conditions are not always and not everywhere favorable for growing this wonderful flower. The arrival of winter is of particular concern to novice summer residents. About which roses are recommended to be covered for the winter, features of the shelter different varieties and varieties, optimal timing, the subtleties of preparing roses for shelter, as well as the most rational methods, will be covered in our article.
When to cover roses for the winter
It is very difficult to name specific dates when you can cover roses for the winter, because it primarily depends on the weather conditions of your region and its climatic features.
It is necessary to cover roses for the winter only when the resistant ones begin to grow. subzero temperatures, and these should not be isolated frosts, but it is desirable that the weather “settles”, in other words, it is best to do this on already frozen ground. As for a certain temperature, at night (and it’s better to take even the daily average) it should stabilize at around -5..-7 degrees. Thus, you need to constantly monitor the weather forecast.
Note! If snow also falls along with the drop in temperature, then you can cover directly over the snow.
But it is still possible to name approximate periods of shelter in the regions. So, in middle lane(Moscow region) roses are covered around the end of October - the first half of November, as well as in the Leningrad region and the Volga region. In the northern regions (in the Urals and Siberia) - at the end of September-October (sometimes even November). In the South of Russia - the most late autumn, that is, not earlier than November.
Important! Roses should not be covered too early. Plants will simply suffer under cover if it is warm and rainy.
Video: when to cover roses for the winter
What roses need to be covered for the winter
Park roses, as a rule, they are very rarely covered for the winter, because They have quite high winter hardiness.
Park
And here floribunda, bush, ground cover, hybrid tea, climbing and standard roses it is necessary to cover. Moreover, the latter are quite difficult to cover.
Important! Tea- hybrid roses do not have good winter hardiness, and often in the spring they have to be cut to zero, but if spud was sufficient, then the chance of finding living branches under it is quite high.
Hybrid tea
Video: sheltering hybrid tea roses
Specifics of shelter for climbing roses
Obviously, it is quite difficult to cover climbing roses due to their great height.
Shelter technique climbing roses next:
Advice! Before laying the roses, you can tie them with twine so that you get a long sheaf (bundle) and the branches do not stick out in different directions. After this, under its own weight, the sheaf (bundle) of roses easily bends to the ground.
Video: covering climbing roses for the winter
Features of sheltering standard roses
It is not so easy to cover standard roses.
The specificity of this type of shelter is as follows: you dig up your rose on one side and carefully lay it down, pressing it with arches. You fill (spud up) the base with earth or sand, and then everything is as usual - spruce branches (or other branches) and spunbond (or other covering material). At the same time, do not forget to wrap the standard itself.
By the way! Some particularly scrupulous flower growers, in addition to wrapping the entire rose with covering material, also place a frame on top, which is also covered.
Video: how to cover for the winter standard rose
But it is best not to bend the bushes (especially older ones, but very young ones are quite possible), but simply install a frame around it, or directly wrap it with covering material, including the standard.
Preparing roses for shelter for the winter
Before covering the roses, it is necessary to carry out the following activities to prepare the “queen of flowers” for winter:
- Feed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
- Conduct autumn pruning - cut the stems to the height of the shelter (so that they fit under it), that is, leave about 40-50 cm, and also cut off all the leaves (if possible).
- Cover the cuts with garden varnish or even better with RanNet paste.
- Collect all the trash gained for warm season(after pruning and tearing off the leaves), since it is a source of infections.
- Treat against diseases and pests. For example, you can spray copper-containing drugs (copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture), especially if there were black spots on the leaves. Or with specialized fungicides: Skor, Topaz, Hom, Oxychom. and etc.
Important! If you are covering roses with leaves, or the plant is sick, then treatment is required.
Attention! The need for hilling is quite controversial, because everyone has a different land and climate (weather). For example, some gardeners believe that hilling in the middle zone (Moscow region) is a good thing for roses, because they damp out much more often than they freeze out.
But, in general, hilling can be harmful, since it is with it that roses often become ripe.
Advice! If the weather is still uncertain - either rain or thaw, it is better to install arches, put spunbond on top, and leave air vents on the sides. As soon as the cold weather sets in, the vents should be closed.
- Cover.
Important! The shoots must be bent very carefully so as not to break at sub-zero temperatures.
How to cover roses for the winter: methods and step-by-step guides
Advice! It is much more convenient and practical to cover many roses at once, rather than one at a time. Therefore, it is recommended to grow them in rose gardens.
Covering with earth or hilling
The most “ancient” way to cover roses is to sprinkle them with earth.
However, its significant disadvantage is that during the thaw (for example, in late autumn) the roses are under a layer of soil warm up.
But if there are no such thaws in your region, then you can try.
At first, you simply lightly mound the base of the bush with earth, and after the onset of stable frosts, you cover the bush itself (but preferably with dry soil), making a mound about 30 cm high.
Advice! If you live in a private house and decide to cover the roses with soil, then, if possible, add some snow when you clear the paths. This way your favorite flowers will definitely not freeze.
Without arcs (air-dry)
To create a frame and provide air under the shelter, it is optimal to use spruce branches. Moreover, they can even be covered repeatedly, that is, it is not necessary to always use fresh branches; last year’s semi-dry ones are also suitable.
Important! It is not necessary or necessary to cut branches spruce branches directly from the trees, you can pick up broken branches that are lying on the ground, for example, after a strong wind.
If it is not possible to collect spruce branches in the forest, then you can use them instead branches from shrub pruning(only not sick ones), or even better, branches from the forest - again broken from birch or cut elderberry branches.
Please note! Hay will not work because... it scuttles and there are mice under it. Just like sawdust, because it gets wet during thaws, and when frost hits, it freezes and spoils the root collar, it turns black and becomes frozen in an ice cocoon.
Step-by-step instruction covering roses for the winter without arches (on branches):
On arcs (air-dry)
Step-by-step instructions for covering a rose for the winter on arches (air-dry method):
Video: how to cover roses for the winter (air-dry methods)
How to cover roses for the winter: methods and best covering materials
Interesting! Covering material is necessary for protection from icy winds in the pre-winter months and from sunburn in the spring.
Its installation on a frame (arches or branches) acts as a canopy so that the roses are not crushed by snow, and there is still air under it.
At all, The best covering material for roses is snow. If you have a lot of snow, then wintering will go well.
Covering with film
Many people use film for covering. However, you can cover roses with film only if you have the opportunity to come to the dacha until winter, as well as in early spring(or you live in a private house) to open the shelter and ventilate the roses during the onset of thaws. Otherwise, there is a very high probability that the plants under the film will simply rot. In addition, frozen film is very difficult to remove in the spring (it can tear).
By the way! If you live in a rainy region, then on top of spunbond It is recommended to cover roses with film on the arches, but it is important not to cover the ends (leave vents). Or you can make a film tunnel shelter on arcs.
Note! In all other cases, you should never cover roses with film, they don’t breathe!
Covering with non-woven material (spunbond, agrofibre, lutrasil, burlap, geotextile)
The advantage of shelter non-woven material is the fact that despite the fact that, for example, spunbond allows moisture to pass through, it still practically does not accumulate under such cover, most of rolls down. Thus, under the agrofibre, the most optimal mode humidity and air.
If you find spunbond grade 30, 40 microns, then it is better to lay it in 2-3 layers. If you have 60 microns, then you can use 1 layer, but it’s better to use 2 (moisture will definitely not seep into 2 layers).
Advice! You only need to use light (white) spunbond. Black - heats up much more during a thaw. The ground inside will begin to thaw earlier, and there will be more moisture. Black spunbond is usually used on beds (strawberry) or flower beds to prevent weeds from growing.
Video: covering roses for the winter using spruce branches and spunbond
Sugar sacks
It is quite inexpensive to cover roses with polypropylene sugar bags; they practically do not allow moisture to pass through and breathe well (thanks to climbing structure).
Advice! It is quite convenient to put the bags on a frame made of a cardboard box.
Covering with cardboard
Cardboard is a very good covering material that protects from the wind (it’s also a frame), but, unfortunately, it gets wet, so you need to lay another layer on top of it, for example, the same spunbond (2 layers) or film.
And some, like the gardener from the next video, first wrap the roses in spunbond, then cover them with cardboard, 2 more layers of spunbond on top and a final layer of film (but only on top, not on the sides, so that the cover can breathe).
Video: how to cover roses for the winter - a method with cardboard, spunbond and film
Conclusion! Thus, when choosing a covering material, you should adhere to the following rules.
- Between shelter and rose shoots there must be space - air gap, it will protect the flowers from the cold.
- The shelter must allow air to pass through, i.e. covering material it should be breathable so that there is no high humidity inside.
Important! Plastic basins and buckets are not suitable for shelter.
Video: how and with what to cover roses - tips on how to properly cover a rose garden
Features of covering roses in different regions
Depending on the climatic characteristics of the region where the “queen of flowers” is grown, there are some small nuances for covering roses for the winter.
In the south of Russia
If you live in a warm southern region, then for the winter it is enough to hill up the roses, for example, by covering the base (neck) with dry sawdust or just earth. After all, in general, even if the shoots freeze, new ones will grow from the neck.
In the middle zone (Moscow region), in the Urals and Siberia, everything is different.
In the middle zone (Moscow region)
The middle zone is a zone of risky farming, and there are both snowy and completely snowless winters. That's why best shelter for roses in the middle zone (Moscow region) - this is air-dry. In other words, there must be air under the shelter, and it must be protected from precipitation.
In the Urals and Siberia
In principle, sheltering roses in the Urals and Siberia is similar to sheltering in the middle zone, but amateur flower growers advise avoiding hilling or using spruce branches (quite controversial) when covering, and simply making an air-dry shelter on arches, stretching, for example, geotextiles on top in 1 layer (density 150).
Video: hiding roses in the Urals and Siberia
How to preserve roses in winter in very cold northern regions
Very often, gardeners are completely unable to grow roses in frosty northern regions (for example, in Tyumen), where winter temperatures drop to -50 and below.
In such climatic conditions it is better plant roses in a pot And For the winter, put it in a cellar or basement.
For normal storage in the cellar, a very low temperature must be maintained all winter - no higher than +4-5 degrees, optimally around 0. For more high temperature roses will begin to grow and stretch from lack of light.
Winter care for roses in pots in the cellar is as follows: first of all, you need to ensure that the earthen lump does not dry out “to death,” which means that you should periodically water it dry, adding snow to the pot.
In the spring, gradually begin to bring it into the light, especially if the plants begin to grow. And when the temperature starts to stay in the positive range (in April-May), then you can already take it out into the garden.
So that even novice gardeners can easily endure the winter with tender and beautiful flowers and delight them in the spring with a magical riot of colors, it is necessary to avoid mistakes in covering them for the winter. And for this it is very important to take into account the features various types and varieties of roses, optimal periods of shelter, as well as natural and climatic conditions in different regions and the most suitable methods of protection during thaws and frosts.
Video: how to properly cover roses for the winter
Important! If you you do not want so that under the shelter of a rose chewed by mice, then you need to put special sent baits or, alternatively, rags soaked in birch tar(small pieces).
In contact with
About, How How to properly cover roses for the winter Let's talk in our article. After all, a capricious and majestic rose is a decoration for any garden. At the same time, she demands special care. There are species that tolerate any winter well, and there are those sissies that require certain conditions. Let's get acquainted with the features of the shelter and the best designs For tea-hybrid, climbing, standard, bush and park roses.
Wonderful flowers come from Ancient Rome, where there is no temperature below 3 degrees. And since it is much colder in most of Russia, experts have come up with a way to cover roses for the winter.
Do I need to cover roses for the winter??
The answer to this question depends on the variety of roses and the weather conditions of a particular region. Age, plant condition and shelter option do not greatly affect how plants tolerate cold temperatures. When purchasing a particular type of flower, you can clarify whether they should be covered. If the climate is warm and the winter is mild, then some don’t even winter-hardy varieties can carry it without shelter.
The most winter-hardy species are:
- park varieties(Rytausma, Pink Grotendorst, Konrad Ferdinand Meyer, Hansa, Lavinia, Adelaide Hutles);
- species or rose hips (Nitida, Glauka, Wrinkled);
- winter-hardy varieties (Scabrosa, John Davis, Snow Pavement, Jens Munch, Hansa);
- some hybrid species (Alba, Spinosissima, Rugosa).
Experts advise covering all other species.
When to cover?
Shrub roses can be covered at the end of October. If you do this earlier, when it is still warm, the temperature in the shelter may rise, causing roots and shoots to begin to develop. Considering that soil moisture rises, moisture accumulates, the roots can rot. Therefore, when the temperature drops to -5 degrees for more than 7 days, you can cover the roses for the winter.
Flowers tolerate the first frosts well down to – 7 degrees. It is recommended to start covering the bushes in this weather. Roses enter a dormant state, the stems and roots harden.
But it all depends on weather conditions, the onset of cold weather and the climate of the region.
- In outskirts of Moscow roses are covered approximately at the end of October. The period may vary, the main thing is that during the week the temperature varies between +5-7.
- In the Urals, in Siberia Roses are covered in September because the temperature drops earlier. It is recommended to cover with several layers, because winters in the Urals are harsh and the plant needs additional protection.
Advice from experienced flower growers! The main condition for a good wintering of roses can be safely called dry shelter. Do not cover wet bushes or use wet foliage, dig in with damp soil or covering material. Due to humidity, rot may appear, pests may appear and the roses will get sick.
Step by step guide
First stage: preparation
Before winter, it is necessary to take protective measures for roses.
During flowering, the plant is depleted, nutrient reserves from the soil are consumed. Therefore, special fertilizers must be applied in the fall so that the plant does not gain green mass, but prepares for frost.
- For 10 liters of water you need to take 16 g of potassium monophosphate, 15 g of superphosphate or 10 g of potassium sulfate, 25 g of superphosphate and 2.5 g boric acid. Apply 4-5 liters of the resulting fertilizer to each bush.
- The popular method of feeding is banana peels or wood ash(for 1 sq. m. you need 3 liters of jar). This composition contains a sufficient amount of potassium and calcium.
- Complex fertilizer “Autumn”, which was created specifically to prepare the roots of roses for winter.
- The bushes are also treated with fungicides, Fitosporin-M or a 5% solution of copper sulfate.
- Before covering roses, they must be completely ripe. Approximately 3-4 weeks before covering, you need to stop cutting flowers for bouquets. This rule applies to young roses that were cut for the first time this year. They must bloom, thereby naturally ending the growing season.
Advice! After pruning, roses must be treated with a disinfectant. The bushes are hilled to a height of 30 cm. After this, the roses are ready for shelter for the winter.
- Different varieties roses have different period falling leaves. But be sure to pick or cut off all the leaves. This will put the plant into a dormant state and reduce the risk of infection.
- To disinfect the above-ground parts of the bushes, it is necessary to treat them with a solution of iron sulfate or a fungicide before covering them. The ground under the bushes should be cleared of debris and weeds.
Watch the video! How to properly cover roses for the winter
Second stage: trimming or bending
Park and climbing varieties of roses do not need to be pruned. Some bush varieties And climbing species that are sensitive to cold must be gradually, 3-4 weeks before sheltering, placed on supports that go lower and lower, so as not to damage or break the woody stems. This must be done gradually and carefully.
Park roses– bend or cut?
Here opinions are divided. Some people leave roses for the winter without pruning so that they can withstand it better. Such a plant will wake up earlier in the spring and it is unlikely that new shoots will be released. But there is back side this medal: the smaller the above-ground part of the bush, the better it will withstand frost. In addition, leaving the top parts of the stems increases the risk of bacteria development. Therefore, it is still recommended to do pruning.
On the presented photo four stages of insulation of stamped roses are visible. The roots are dug up if the trunks bend poorly. The leaf part is covered with spruce branches or dry leaves, and the top is covered with lutrasil.
How to bend bushes correctly roses?
- Dense and inflexible stems are bent in several stages, as mentioned above. You can use old construction pins or rods. This material bends easily, goes into the ground well and can last for more than one year.
- In order for the bush to become mobile and bend over without damaging the plant, you should carefully dig up with a pitchfork two or three times. At the same time, do not dig it up too much.
- If the bush has been grafted, it should bend towards the graft. This is done so as not to break the stem from heavy load.
Stamped And climbing roses are removed from the supports and laid on the ground.
Watch the video! Pruning and covering roses for the winter
Third stage: covering
How and what to properly cover roses for the winter? There are two types of cover: air-dry or wrap.
- It is necessary to dig in this way: the prepared bushes are covered with soil to a height of 20-40 cm of the stems. The upper shoots are completely covered with dry leaves. Or roses are completely buried in the ground;
- The air type of shelter is the insulation of the roots with leaves or spruce branches, and the above-ground part with a structure made of any materials: plywood or plastic;
- There is an option for wrapping roses, this is used thermal insulation material eg geotextile fabric.
Features of different types of shelter
Experienced gardeners give advice on covering various types of roses for the winter.
- climbing rose. The stems of this species are not pruned for the winter. Healthy shoots are pinched, and only diseased shoots are cut out. You should be careful with long rose loops that are covered with soil. For them, you should carefully prepare a place, pour a layer of sand, and a layer of spruce branches on top. The lashes removed from the support are carefully placed on this pillow. They put another layer of spruce branches on top of them, and a film on top.
There is another option for insulating climbing roses. A rope is made from lashes, which is placed on a prepared wire frame. A protective frame is made of wood or lutrasil over them, and the top is covered with film.
- Park roses. Most varieties of this species are frost-resistant. But young bushes should be covered for the winter. If the winter is predicted to be cold and severe frosts are expected, then you can cover park rose dry method or digging.
- Hybrid tea rose. For this species, standard hilling or frame will be good protection from low temperatures. And the use of spruce branches as an addition will make winter more comfortable for tea roses.
Watch the video! Bending and pruning climbing roses
Three most popular designs for covering roses
Frame method
- You can build a frame using a base of metal rods. They are rolled into an arc and the edges are driven into the ground.
- It is better to cover with insulating material after the onset of the first frost. When the temperature drops below 0 degrees for 7 days, you can insulate the frame.
- The frame is covered with hilled bushes. For it you can take the metal rods mentioned above, old wicker baskets, plastic flowerpots large sizes boards and so on. The frame is constructed in this way:
- the area around the bush is marked;
- a shelter or dome is formed;
- covered with covering material, and the plant is sprinkled with foliage or pine needles, especially if a cold winter is expected;
- On all sides, the insulation is pressed against the edges with bricks so that the roses can be ventilated.
This method is convenient for large rose gardens and flower beds. Insulation is stretched over the frame, if necessary in two layers, and pressed from below with boards or bricks.
Frame shelters can be of several types:
- from the rods you can make a small conical frame for low-growing species or a large spherical or cone-shaped frame for bush varieties.
- Can be made from wooden beams. The base of the frame is in the center of the flowerbed, and metal rods are stuck in arcs on both sides. Covering material is pulled on top.
- You can take three iron rods, stick them around the bush and connect them with wire. The insulation is stretched on top. For bushes that grow sparsely, this method is very convenient.
- For Moscow region and central Russia use air-dry shelter. A frame is installed on the prepared, hilled bush, and insulation is wrapped on top, which is secured with rope.
Fence with embankment
The essence of this method is that a fence is made around the bush, insulation is poured inside: foliage, pine needles, hay, etc. You can use mesh, plywood, cardboard. The fence is made according to the height and width of the bush. Sometimes it is necessary to wrap it in polyethylene so that the insulation does not spill out.
Cocoon made of lutrasil
Tall varieties, especially standard ones, are often insulated, leaving the stem on a support, and the crown is wrapped with covering material.
In this case, the root must be hilled. You can wrap the cocoon with lutrasil or other insulation.
It should be tied at the bottom so that cold air didn't go inside.
Advice! In rainy weather it is better to protect the bush from excess moisture. To do this, water is diverted from the rose garden, and the bushes are additionally covered plastic film.
Conclusion
It is worth noting that even if roses grow in warm winters, where the weather is around -5 -10 degrees, they should still be insulated for the winter. Not only is this protection from the cold, it is also a method of preventing the development of rot, late blight and other diseases. The main thing in this is to choose a covering method that is suitable for the type of rose and the type of climate, then the rose gardens will be healthy and beautiful.
Watch the video! How to cover roses for the winter: the most the right way
Before covering, dig up the soil under the roses (on the bayonet of a shovel), trying not to damage the roots. Shoots of scrub and climbing roses need to be bent to the ground and laid on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are dug up on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground.
Then the bushes are hilled up - or rather, a mound of dry earth at least 30 cm high is added to the base of the bush. As a result, pruned hybrid tea roses and floribunda are almost completely covered with earth. For shrub roses (after they have been bent to the ground), the base of the bush is spudded, and the shoots can also be sprinkled with earth.
Hilling helps to keep the plant a large number of buds, and in the spring you can use any pruning method. The air temperature under such a reliable earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) remains significantly higher for some time than outside.
True, you shouldn’t rush into hilling roses for the winter either. It's better to do this in two stages. From October 10-15, soil is lightly added to the base of the bushes to protect them from unexpected early frosts. And they finally spud up before the onset of constant cold weather.
It is undesirable to use pure peat, sawdust or sand - they are very moisture-intensive and with sudden temperature fluctuations in winter an ice crust may form around the roses. From its pressure, cracks will appear on the plant bark, through which infection will penetrate.
Hilling - best view protection of the root system. But - attention - the soil is not raked from the flower beds, as this would expose the roots of the plants, but is added (this can be compost, humus, or just loose soil). In addition, the soil between the rows can be covered with a layer of old straw manure, chopped bark or rotted leaves. When the ground freezes slightly (in the middle zone, usually at the end of October - in the first ten days of November), the roses are completely covered. It is better to do this in dry weather.
One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage at least 10 cm thick. However, it is reliable in relatively mild winters. If there is no spruce branches, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not rot over the winter.
A more reliable way to cover roses is air-dry. Frames 50-60 cm high are installed above the bushes, any insulation material is laid on top and on the sides, for example, waterproofing paper, glassine, cardboard. Cover with plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below -10 C. This method is called air-dry because it protects the bushes from penetration excess moisture, and a layer of air protects plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in harsh snowy winters. But it can only be used by those who visit their site constantly or come in early spring: with air-dry cover, roses need to be periodically ventilated already in March.
The main covering material is snow; it is this that will most reliably protect roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage, lutrasil - serves only to detain him. At 25-30 degree frosts under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm, the temperature does not drop below -4-5 C. Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. If there is little snow cover, you will have to add more snow. If snow does not fall for a very long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in those cases when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter in the middle zone without any additional shelter.
Illustrations: Vladimir Lukyanov
