It is necessary to care for plants not only in the warm season, but also in the fall: after harvesting, it’s time to help them survive the winter.
At this time, insects seek shelter for the winter months and often hide in trees and bushes. This leads to the fact that in the spring, after waking up, trees are immediately attacked by voracious awakened insects, many of which also carry diseases.
To prevent such troubles, gardeners carry out regular preventive maintenance twice a year - in the fall, before the onset of cold weather, and in the spring immediately after warming.
This allows you to save energy and time in the spring to prepare for the new warm season.
Who should you be afraid of?
Depending on the territory and climate, diseases and pests may vary.
Viruses found on fruit trees and shrubs are especially dangerous:
- Penetrating into the fruits, they can spoil appearance harvest or render it unfit for consumption.
- By destroying the leaves, they force the trees to grow greenery again, leaving no strength for the formation of fruits. This leads to poor quality and low yield.
In Russia on fruit trees most often you can find:
- fungal diseases: scab, late blight;
- insects that prefer leaves: whites, bears, cocoonworms, wavelets;
- pests that feed on plant juices: different types aphids (for example, affecting only plums or roses), mites, psyllids, copperhead;
- beetles that affect the reproductive organs: weevils, pipeworms;
- berry pests: Californian scale insect, raspberry beetles, stem nematodes, glass bug, raspberry gall midge.
Note: Despite the abundance of “enemies”, they are mostly destroyed using the same methods, and therefore there is no need to purchase a dozen chemicals at once - you should start with one substance.
Autumn processing of the garden consists of several stages:
- harvest;
- pruning branches;
- whitewashing the trunk;
- spraying branches;
- frost protection.
After passing all the points, the garden will be completely ready for wintering.
Harvesting and pruning
After harvesting, it is necessary to ensure that there are no fruits left on the ground in which rot can occur, and all leaves should also be removed. Healthy leftovers can be put on humus.
To do this, you need to dig a hole in the corner of the garden and throw out all organic parts there. In a few years, they will produce excellent humus, which will be used to fertilize the garden.
Gardener's advice: if diseased fruits or damaged leaves are found, it is necessary to burn them away from healthy plants or bury them.
But pruning can only be done in the south, where the temperature does not drop too low, otherwise the bark around the cut may freeze and the branch will die. If the garden is not in danger of freezing, you need to prune it: remove all dry, crooked and infected branches, and then burn them.
Whitewash
Whitening trunks with special compounds allows you to solve several problems at once:
- protects the trunk from ultraviolet radiation in the absence of a crown and shade;
- destroys pests that may try to crawl into the roots;
- regulates heat: thanks to whitewashing, the barrel does not overheat or become overcooled.
For whitewashing, you can use ready-made preparations, choosing the most optimal ones. They adhere well to the bark and do not wear off. They usually contain an antiseptic, which allows for additional disinfection of the surface. The disadvantages of the finished product include their cost.
Please note: if the purchased whitewash is too liquid, you need to add a little PVA glue or garden adhesive to it, but in no case should you use wood glue: it will completely clog the bark and the tree will not be able to breathe.
You can also do whitewashing yourself. The finished product will be less stable, but it will be much cheaper.
For this you can use:
- lime solution: 10 liters of water, 3 kg of slaked lime, 300 grams of copper or iron sulfate;
- 2 parts slaked lime and 1 part clay with the addition of PVA glue for viscosity;
- a mixture of equal proportions of cowshed and clay.
Instead of copper sulfate, you can use Dichlorvos, BI-58, DNOC, as well as the fungicides Hom and Oxychom. It is necessary to adhere to the proportions indicated on the package.
Spraying
After the trunk and bases of the strongest branches have been treated, it is necessary to spray the crown. For this purpose, solutions and special sprayers or sprayers are used.
As a first fit:
- Vitriol solution 1% or 2%: it helps in the fight against rot and various pests.
- One percent Bordeaux mixture: suitable for combating powdery mildew, rot and scab on apple and pear trees. To prepare it, you will need to combine two mixtures: a solution of vitriol (a kilogram of substance per 50 liters of water) and a lime solution (in the same proportions).
- Soap and soda ash solution: used to prevent powdery rose on gooseberry and currant bushes. To do this, dissolve 50 grams of soda and 40 grams of soda in 10 liters of water. laundry soap– it needs to be grated.
- Urea solution (or carbamide): used to prevent attacks by leaf rollers, aphids, honey beetles and flower beetles. Apply according to package instructions.
- Solution mineral fertilizers: 10 liters of water will require 1.5 kg of ammonium sulfate, 0.5 kg of urea and 0.7 kg of nitrate.
Frost protection
The traditional way to protect trees from frost is to tie them up.
Suitable for this:
- spruce branches;
- raspberries;
- reed;
- sunflower;
- roofing material: it is necessary to put a rag under it so that it does not touch the bark.
Having covered the trunk with material, it is tied tightly, trying not to crush the trunk of young plants. A good option Wrap the tree over the branches with a metal mesh and secure it: this will help maintain its shape without harming the plant. It is necessary to pour earth under the structure so that the mice do not get inside.
If there are often mice or other rodents in the area, it is necessary to place several traps or poisoned baits around the trees. This will keep the bark intact. Immediately after the onset of spring, everything is cleaned.
Preparing a garden for winter is not difficult, but it is necessary for anyone who would like to maintain the health of trees and shrubs. Having treated them in advance against pests and diseases, in the spring you can not be afraid of unpleasant surprises.
To do everything correctly, it is recommended to watch training videos and photos in advance, as well as purchase everything you need. Treatment should begin immediately after leaf fall and end before the onset of cold weather. If the autumn is late, the work can be delayed a little.
Watch the video in which a specialist talks in detail about autumn processing garden from pests and diseases:
Experts recommend carrying out protective spraying in the fall. This day should be rain-free, dry and frost-free. While trees bloom, bear fruit and ripen, they do not need protection from various small pests. You can learn about how and what to spray the garden in the fall from this article.
Preparing plants for processing
On winter time insects are looking for a warm place to sit out the cold season. Such places are fallen leaves, bark and soil. As a result, spraying fruit trees should be carried out precisely in the autumn period.
This action will help rid the trees of scab, spots, putrefactive diseases and other misfortunes. Due to the fact that bacteria multiply much faster under the bark of plants that are not treated, the vegetative process slows down.
After winter, plants slowly “wake up” and processing is important in the fall. Before spraying trees in the fall, they need to be prepared.
Preparation and processing are carried out in several stages and depend on the age of the seedlings:
- If the plants are more than six years old, then you first need to remove the old bark and lichen using metal brush. This is done so that pathogens various diseases had no way to hide.
- Once everything has been removed from the trees, spraying is carried out. The very last spraying should be done after all the leaves have fallen. You can also do this after the first frost. First you need to remove all the leaves, branches and weeds that have fallen.
How to treat garden trees
How to spray fruit trees in the fall? Fruit garden plants solutions made from urea, iron or copper sulfate are best protected. Each solution is aimed at a specific type of threat.
And therefore, spraying plants cannot be carried out with only one preparation. The product is selected depending on the desired result. Experts recommend doing this procedure at the end of October.
inkstone
This preparation is used to treat and feed fruit trees such as apple trees, plums, cherries and peaches. After processing the plant get a lot of useful microelements and iron. Also, after the procedure, oxidative processes improve.
If there is not enough of it, then the quantity and quality of the harvest decreases. It is not difficult to prepare a solution of iron sulfate. You need to mix one kg of dry powder with 15 liters of water.
Copper sulfate
If you don’t know what trees are sprayed with in the fall, use copper sulfate. This drug, which contains a fungicide, does not allow putrefactive diseases to appear, powdery mildew, scab and spotting.
This drug protects plums from moniliosis, coccomycosis, clusterosporosis and curliness. For pears and apple trees it provides a protective reaction against monioiasis, scab and phyllostictosis.
If the trees in the garden are not older than six years, then use up to two liters of copper sulfate solution per seedling. If the plant is older, then use up to ten liters.
It is best to spray fruit trees in the garden in the morning or evening. The temperature should be from +5 to +30 degrees, and it is also not desirable that there be wind.
Treating the garden with urea
It is recommended to spray the plants in the garden with urea as the first or last stage in preparation for winter. The first spraying should be done with a high concentration of the product. This action kills all pest larvae.
Seedlings in the garden are treated in the fall after half of the leaves have fallen off. To do this, make a solution - 10 liters of water and 500 g of urea. When all the leaves have fallen on the trees, the solution is made more concentrated by 7%.
Needs processing trunks, branches and soil. This is an excellent tree protection and fertilizer. Just be careful not to overdo it with preparing the solution; if it is too concentrated, the leaves will get burned and fall off earlier than necessary.
As a result, the supply will decrease useful substances and the frost resistance of fruit trees will decrease.
Nuances of autumn garden processing
Plants in the garden are sprayed using a manual or mechanized apparatus. This device evenly sprays the drug and protects a person from contact with it. Regardless of the operating principle of the device, they all have spray pump.
Mechanical models differ from manual ones in ease of use and difference in cost. Mechanical ones are much more convenient, but more expensive. Processing trees manually requires periodic pumping.
When trees have wounds and cracks, in addition to lime, you also need to use the following products:
- cow dung;
- finely chopped straw.
There is another way to protect trees - garden var. You can make it yourself or buy it in a store. To prepare you need 100 g of rosin and 200 g of beeswax.
These products need to be melted separately, then mixed together and add 100 g of unsalted fat to the mixture. Before sealing the cracks, the garden pitch needs to be heated.
In the southern regions, trees need to be pruned in the fall, and in the northern regions, such an action will lead to the freezing of the plant.
When we bought ourselves a dacha with a garden, in the very first autumn we began to think about what to spray the fruit trees with. There were many options, now there are a lot of offers from different sources. The most common options are copper and iron sulfate, urea (urea), and Bordeaux mixture.
I already wrote about Bordeaux style here -. Well, we decided to focus on carbamide, or urea. Why on this substance?
This is a 46 percent nitrogen fertilizer concentrate, sold in crystalline form, looks like salt, and has no odor. In summer cottages it is used for feeding plants, as well as for spraying them. The active ingredient of urea is nitrogen, which is necessary for all plants to develop and grow.
In addition, nitrogen destroys all pests on the plant, which makes it possible for the fruit crop to produce a clean, not rotten or spoiled harvest.
The benefits of autumn tree treatment
By spraying your garden with a urea solution in the fall, you prevent the spring feast of insects on your trees and eliminate pathogens that actively multiply in wet autumn weather.
It is imperative that you spray all your fruit trees. in the fall, before frost. Apple trees, pears, cherries, plums, apricots and cherries. In general, everything fruit plants I recommend treating it with urea. Believe me, it will be beneficial in any case!
By treating your trees you will eliminate scab, various fungal infections, spotting, various kinds rot, as well as insect pests hiding in the bark and dormant buds for the winter. All these parasites will have a hard time, and they will die, giving the trees the opportunity to be full of strength.
Rules for autumn garden spraying
For your area, the optimal time to spray urea is - when all the leaves fall. This is the main guideline specifically for your region. Be sure to wait until the leaves fall, otherwise you may burn the foliage, which will affect the health of the tree. It should shed its leaves on its own, prepare for the winter, fall asleep, and after that, you can start spraying with urea.
The second most important condition is dry, windless weather.Everything here should be clear - dryness promotes better impregnation of wood, and the absence of wind will allow you to target the crown with a spray gun. Be sure to use protective equipment when processing plants!
The spray solution must be prepared sufficiently concentrated, experienced gardeners It is recommended to take 500-700 grams of fertilizer per 10 liters of water. This concentration is optimal for controlling pests and infections.
The entire crown should be sprayed, from the bottom of the trunk and ending with the top of the crown. Therefore, you may need a garden ladder for your work. That is why it is best to spray in calm weather so that air currents do not blow away the solution flying out of the spray gun.
The soil around the tree should also be treated urea solution. Carbamide will destroy the larvae that have hidden for the winter, simply burn them chemically.
These simple rules autumn garden treatment will allow you not to worry about your future harvest, will save your plantings from insect pests and prevent the development of diseases of fruit trees.
What and when to spray shrubs and trees in the fall?
In order for the wintering of trees to be successful, the gardener will need to protect his fruit trees from pests and diseases. By spraying your trees in the fall, you will ensure they are healthy and blooming species throughout the next season.
Autumn spraying trees - important factor in garden care. Processing of fruit trees is carried out using spray guns, while observing all safety rules, since late spraying carried out with pesticides. In view of this, each gardener needs to have a set of clothes to carry out this procedure: gloves, a protective gown and, of course, a respirator. The preparation for spraying fruit trees in the fall should be selected based on existing diseases and pests, and whether this treatment is early or late. Since late autumn is usually rainy, it is necessary to wait for dry weather; in no case do not spray the plantings before the rain, otherwise the rain will wash away the substance and the garden will remain unprotected or will not have sufficient effect. The weather should be dry and windless.
Spraying of trees in late autumn is carried out just before the onset of winter. Of course, if there are plantings in the garden that are diseased, the procedure is carried out outside the schedule.
With the onset of early autumn, the garden especially needs care and attention. To ensure that fruit trees are resistant to winter and cold, when sprayed in late November, they are also fertilized with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
For autumn spraying of fruit trees, it is good to use a urea solution, with the calculation: 500-700 grams of urea per 10 liters of water. Interestingly, when spraying, you need to treat both the tree itself and the area underneath it so that the entire infection is killed. The spray should be dusty and fine. This procedure will reduce the risk of garden disease next year.
However, many gardeners are in a hurry and make a serious mistake by cultivating their garden in early autumn, when the trees have not yet lost all their leaves. Spraying the garden with such a solution can only cause burns and untimely leaf fall. In this case, no effect will be achieved. As a result, the gardener will receive a weakened garden with a lack of useful nutrients, which will hardly be able to survive the winter. It is much more prudent to use a solution of this concentration in late autumn - in November.
In mid-autumn, in October, the bases of the branches and trunks must be whitened lime mortar, having previously cleared them of dead bark. As for young plantings, they are covered with a chalk solution. Apple and pear trees are protected from rodent invasion by tying the trunks and bases of skeletal branches. You can tie fruit trees with matting or burlap using young cherry or walnut branches. Some people use stockings.
Preparations for spraying trees.
inkstone used for spraying plants and the soil under them before the beginning of the growing season or in the fall after the leaves fall, in order to combat diseases of pome and stone fruits fruit crops and berries (diseases of the trunk and branches, moniliosis, scab and other spots), grapes (anthracnose, bacterial cancer, spotted necrosis, mildew).
Urea is an effective measure for the destruction of leaf roller caterpillars, aphids, honey beetles and apple blossom beetles. The effect of nitrogen spraying lasts about 2 weeks, so as time passes, it is recommended to repeat the spraying procedure.
Autumn treatment with a nitrogen solution should also involve some kind of fungicide and include spraying not only the trees themselves, but also the soil under them. Fallen leaves must be subject to mandatory treatment if they are not planned to be removed.
Urea You can spray your garden both in spring and autumn. Only in the fall it is important not to rush. If we start doing this before the trees have lost all their leaves, we risk slowing their growth, making them more likely to freeze in the winter. The concentration - 700 grams of substance per 10 liters of water - is optimal for both spring and autumn spraying. Spraying with urea will protect trees from aphids.
Spraying trees diesel fuel helps to achieve complete destruction of the larvae due to the fact that the solution sprayed over the surface of the bark forms a homogeneous oily film on the surface of the branches and poles, which does not allow the larvae to breathe, as a result of which they suffocate as soon as possible after treatment.
Since this petroleum product is not a fungicide, it can be sprayed not only at the beginning of spring and late autumn, but also throughout the entire flowering period of the fruit tree. Typically, it is diluted according to one of the following recipes:
To 10 parts of water add 1 part of iron sulfate, then 10 parts of 10% milk of lime and only then 20 parts of diesel fuel. The resulting mixture will have a 50% concentration and is recommended for use before bud formation and after leaf fall.
5 parts clay and 5 parts water are mixed with 20 parts fuel. The resulting solution has the same concentration as the previous one, but does not contain a fungicide and can be used during the period of fruit appearance.
Another option for obtaining a 50% solution for spraying is to mix 9 parts of water with 1 part of laundry soap and 10 parts of diesel fuel.
Autumn treatment of the garden against pests and diseases consists of several stages: digging up the soil, removing branches and leaves and spraying the garden. I do not recommend neglecting these procedures if you value next year’s harvest. If you've never done it before, this article will help you understand how and when to properly cultivate your garden.
When and why is treatment carried out?
Start processing in the fall when trees and shrubs lose their leaves. This time falls at the end of September - beginning of October. For work, choose a dry, non-rainy day, before the first frost. The main goals of autumn treatment: to rid trees and shrubs of pests and their larvae, pathogens, rodents, and also to protect plants from frost. Rake weeds, fallen leaves, and cut branches into a pile, collect them and burn them outside the site. In some sources I came across advice to dig fallen leaves of trees and shrubs into the ground to provide additional nutrition. I don't recommend doing this. Often insects lay larvae precisely on the underside of the leaf; digging them into the ground will make their task easier. I would also not leave leaves and straw with a layer of mulch, so as not to attract rodents for wintering. Carefully dig up the soil around the trunk to a depth of 15-20 cm to get rid of pests and their larvae overwintering in the soil. Carry out this procedure carefully, using a rake to avoid damaging the roots of the plants. Let's look at the other two stages in more detail.
Whitewashing plant trunks
Whitewashing the trunks of trees and shrubs will protect the tree from insects and pathogens. Already laid eggs are burned out using whitewash. In addition, treated trunks tolerate frost more easily. Before starting work, lay fabric around the trees. Use a scraper to rid the tree of old bark and moss. Disinfect the surface, treat wounds and cracks on the trunk with garden varnish. Apply whitewash with a wide brush in several layers to a height of up to one and a half meters. Acrylic or water-based paints. Special formulations are commercially available. But it’s easy to make the solution yourself. For this you will need slaked lime, copper sulfate, glue or clay for binding and water. By adding carbolic acid to the solution, you will protect the garden from hares and rodents.
Spraying the garden
Autumn spraying of bushes and trees is carried out using three main liquids: urea, copper and iron sulfate. Do not forget about safety precautions: when working in the garden, wear a protective suit, gloves, and a respirator mask. Buy a convenient one, based on the size of the area being processed. A 5% urea solution will save the plantings from scab. Processing from fungal disease The trunk and branches of the plant, as well as the ground around it, are subject to. But do not forget that urea contains nitrogen. This element triggers vegetation processes in trees. To avoid exposing the plant to frostbite, spray the plantings with urea as close to cold weather as possible. Treatment with a solution of iron sulfate (5-7%) will rid the garden of moss and lichen, in which insects like to lay eggs. In addition, the solution nourishes the bark with iron, which helps in oxidative processes and prepares the plant for wintering. Stone and pome crops, grapes, currants and gooseberries will be protected from most fungal diseases by a solution of copper sulfate.
For greater efficiency Lime is added to it and Bordeaux mixture is obtained. Spraying trees with Bordeaux mixture is appropriate in the fall. This solution leaves burns on the leaves, so using it in spring is dangerous. And in the fall, feel free to increase the concentration of the solution to 3%. Treatment with this solution is the final stage in the autumn treatment of the garden against diseases and pests.
Tilling your garden will require patience and time. But this is a necessary set of procedures, without which you will not have to wait for a healthy harvest.
