What to do if petunia seedlings have become very elongated? Petunia seedlings die: main mistakes and ways to overcome them

I saw very beautiful flowers at my neighbor’s house – petunias. She said she raised them herself. I decided to try it too, but all my seedlings died almost immediately after germination.

Expert answer

Petunia just seems like an easy flower to care for. In fact, you need to know how to grow it. There are especially many problems with seedlings: if the conditions are not met, they quickly lose their viability. However, the beauty of flowering can neutralize all difficulties. To avoid problems, you need to know why petunia seedlings fall and die.

Pictured is Petunia

Problem 1. Shoots

Difficulties begin almost immediately. It often happens that petunia does not even sprout. Why is this happening?

The main mistake novice gardeners make is going too deep. First, pay attention to the seeds: in petunia they are very small, that is, the viability reserve and nutrient content in them is small. They are just enough to produce sprouts. Then the flower needs sunlight to grow further. If the seeds are buried 1 cm or more, then the petunia simply does not have enough strength to break through to the light. The seeds will not sprout. Therefore, they are not buried, but simply poured onto the ground and pressed down a little. Seeds should not be buried more than 1-2 mm into the ground.

There are several other conditions without which the seeds will not germinate:

good lighting;
warm;
wet soil;
regular watering. At this stage, you can wet the seeds and soil with a spray bottle so as not to dislodge the seeds.

Sowing occurs as follows. Take petunia seeds (any seeds are now sold simple, granulated or coated in a coating of fertilizer) and sow them in well-moistened soil, without deepening them, but only slapping them with your palm or slightly pressing them with your finger. Spray on top from a spray bottle, cover with film or a bag to create a greenhouse effect, and place in a warm, well-lit place. Sowing of seeds is carried out in February or March, so that the seedlings have time to get stronger and grow before planting in open ground.

Another reason, independent of the grower, why petunia seedlings die is the low quality of the seeds, their initial non-viability or too long term storage

Problem 2. The seedlings do not shed their shells and die

The sprouts do not always have the strength to shed the shell on their own. They have to help with this. If the seed coat does not fall off, the plant will die.

The seedlings must be checked and ventilated every day. Once a day, the film is completely removed from the container or lifted: the seeds are inspected and the soil is moistened. If it is noticed that the seed has sprouted, but has not shed its shell, then this may indicate 2 facts:

Seeds are “defective”.
Too dry.

In the first case, there is no point in saving the plant; it will die anyway. In the second, you can help the flower. First, increase the humidity level: when ventilating, do not remove the film completely, but only lift it, reduce the ventilation time, and additionally wet the shell with a spray bottle. You can help the flower throw it off. To do this, water is dripped onto the seed from a syringe, and then the shell is removed with a needle.

Problem 3. Black leg

Sometimes it happens that the seeds have sprouted, they have already risen and began to grow, but suddenly they begin to collapse, fall and disappear. In this case, you need to inspect the stem. If it darkens at the base, it means that the petunias are sick with the so-called. "black leg" They were infected by a fungus from the soil.

The fungus does not just activate. The reason for its development is very high humidity and lack of ventilation. Flower growers need to ensure that water balance is maintained: the soil should be moist, but not soggy. Moreover, water stagnation should not be allowed. We must not forget about ventilation.

The “black leg” can be defeated and still healthy plants can be saved. First of all, all infected petunias must be thrown away without regret - they cannot be saved. Replant healthy plants in fresh soil. For greater safety, the soil must be disinfected. To do this, the ground is treated with a solution of potassium permanganate or formaldehyde. And in the future, make sure that the soil is not overly moistened.

Another option for blackening of stems is increased acidity of the soil. Petunias do not like this kind of soil, so it definitely needs to be changed. Increased soil acidity can cause petunia seedlings to fall.

Problem 4. Seedlings stretch

Sometimes the reason why seedlings fall is not a fungus, but a lack of sun or too much sun. heat in room. What it looks like: the plants fall over, but their stems, although thin, do not turn black. That is, the reason is not the “black leg”; the petunias are healthy, but too elongated. In this case, it is necessary to take some countermeasures. If you don’t pay attention and leave everything as it is, the flowers will stretch out greatly and will not be the same fluffy bushes with many branches.

Seedlings usually stand on the windowsill. But she may not have enough light, especially if the windows face north. Therefore, additional lighting can be used. For example, install special lamps.

Another reason is that the seedlings are sitting too densely, and unhealthy competition for light has begun between the petunias. In this case, it is necessary to thin out the flowers and plant them.

Apartments are often hot, stuffy and dry due to working central heating. This microclimate also promotes excessive upward growth. As a result, the petunias become very elongated, and the thin stems are unable to hold them. The flower collapses. To stop this process, you need to try to lower the temperature or move the flower to a cool place. You also need to monitor the humidity level.

What to do to slow down growth? You can pinch the petunia. Then its upward growth will slow down, and the growth of lateral shoots will be activated. As a result, the bushes will become more lush, branched, and the stems will begin to grow stronger. Deepening the stems also helps.

Problem 5: Yellowing or other discoloration of leaves

Based on the condition of the foliage of many plants, a complete diagnosis of the condition can be made. Petunia seedlings are no exception. A change in foliage color usually indicates that the plant lacks any nutrients or microelements:

with a lack of phosphorus, the leaves become blue-violet;
small and yellowish leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency;
if yellowness affects the lower leaves, then there is most likely an excess of nitrogen;
with a lack of magnesium, the lower branches and leaves on them become variegated, then turn brown and fall off;
uniform thinning and yellowing of foliage indicates insufficient watering;
yellowing or lightening to almost white apical leaves indicates chlorosis - iron deficiency. At the same time, the veins remain green. This is the most common reason why petunia seedlings turn yellow.

There is only one way to combat all these phenomena - feed. Can be used complex fertilizers or narrow-minded. For example, in case of chlorosis, plants need to be treated with special preparations containing iron: “Iron Chelate”, “Feravit”, etc. Another way to combat incipient chlorosis is by watering with a solution citric acid. For 1 liter of water you will need 1 g of powder. The fact is that leaves can turn yellow even when the soil is alkalized.

Sometimes the cause of chlorosis is an attack by pests. They are visible when examining petunias. In this case, it is necessary to use insecticides. Petunia tolerates chemicals quite easily.

Problem 6. Abrupt growth stop

If flowers suddenly suddenly stop growing, this indicates that their root system has become cramped in the container being used. This is another reason why petunia seedlings fall. Especially if all other parameters are met. The problem can be solved simply: you need to transplant the flowers into a container bigger size so that the roots can continue to grow and develop. The plants will be a little sore for the first week, this is normal. 10 days after transplantation, you can feed them using complex fertilizers.

It can be a shame when expensive petunia seeds, which you have been looking for on sale for a long time (and finally found!), refuse to sprout. Or they sprout, but after a while they begin to get sick and die. The feelings that a failed gardener experiences in this situation are difficult to convey in words. Of course, everything has a reason, and the sudden onset of the pestilence also did not arise just like that. You have made a mistake in some way. Let's try to figure out what exactly it is, and at the same time eliminate the consequences of the situation that has arisen.

You have planted the seeds and are beginning to wait for the first harbingers of spring. You look into the landing container with hope: what if? But the 5 days stated on the package pass, and then the same amount, and nothing happens. Possible reasons:

“dead” seeds (old or dead due to improper storage)
buried plantings (petunia needs to be sown superficially; seeds germinate only in the light)
using pelleted seeds (sometimes the granules are too hard and you need to break them or soak them manually)

Situation No. 2. The seeds sprouted, but did not shed their seed coat

This is bad and indicates that the sprout does not have the strength to drop the seed on its own.

The sprout does not have enough strength to shed the seed coat and straighten the cotyledons

There may be two reasons for this problem:

dry air, making the seed coat “impenetrable”
old or improperly stored seeds, the sprouts of which are frail and difficult to adapt to independent life

But in the first case, it is very possible to fight for the life of the seedlings. First, try increasing the humidity. For example, cover the container with seedlings with film (if you have not done this before). Try to soak the shell - drop water from a pipette or syringe onto it, wait until it softens, and then carefully pry it with a needle and remove it. This must be done, otherwise, if the cotyledons do not unfold, the sprout will die.

Situation No. 3. The stem of the sprout becomes thinner at the base and breaks. Seedlings fall

Many novice gardeners have a question about why petunia seedlings are falling. Most likely the seedlings suffered serious disease With interesting name- “black leg”. It manifests itself like this: a dark area forms at the base of the stem, which softens and begins to rot. Very soon the sprout ceases to support its own weight, falls, and the stem breaks.

The stem of the sprout turns black and breaks - this is how the “black leg” manifests itself.

Blackleg is a fungal disease, that is, its causative agents are soil fungi. They live in any substrate, but behave entirely peacefully. However, in some situations they begin to become harmful and destroy green spaces. This usually happens at high air and soil humidity. Some gardeners like to create “greenhouses” for their seedlings, arranging extreme humidity there at 100% and at the same time forgetting to ventilate them. In such a climate, “black leg” is practically guaranteed! Greenhouses need to be ventilated every day, the covering material (film, glass) should be wiped clean from drops of condensed water. High humidity- the main reason why petunia seedlings fall. Thickened plantings and excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers also contribute to this disease.

If you notice signs of “black leg” on your seedlings, immediately get rid of the affected sprouts - there is nothing you can do to help them. Let's try to save what's left. To do this, it is very desirable to completely change the soil, but this is not always possible, and particles of soil and fungal microorganisms will still remain on the roots of the sprouts. Therefore, it is more realistic to simply disinfect the soil. A 40% formaldehyde solution is very effective in this regard. You can also use a strong solution of potassium permanganate or any fungicide, for example, Maxim.

Situation number 4. Petunia seedlings turn yellow

Usually, external application of iron in a form accessible to the plant – chelate – helps correct the situation. Iron chelate is included in all drugs against chlorosis, for example, such as “Ferovit”, “Iron Chelate”, etc.

Chlorosis sometimes occurs due to pest damage, for example, during a spider mite infestation

If the lower leaves are affected by yellowness, then the problem is an overflow or lack of nitrogen. Start feeding the seedlings well with nitrogen-containing complex fertilizers or adjust the watering.

Situation No. 5. Petunia seedlings stretching out

Petunia seedlings are stretched due to lack of light and heat (relative, of course, for seedlings and 25°C is already very warm). Therefore, it is not advisable to sow petunia in February if you do not have good lighting. Natural light is still very scarce, and the batteries are burning with might and main. The seedlings will stretch.

Long internodes indicate that the plants are kept in low light

If this happens to your seedlings, do not despair. First, trim (pinch) the tops of the sprouts and bury the stems at the cotyledons, and then either provide enough light for the seedlings or reduce the temperature at which they are kept. Then appearance your little petunias will return to normal.

An elongated petunia needs to be pinched and the lighting improved, then it will begin to develop correctly and will soon fluff up

Situation No. 6. Petunia seedlings have stopped growing

Seedlings stop developing with a small volume of soil, when all the food that was initially there has already been “eaten.” Distill the sprouts into larger containers, and after 2 weeks begin to “feed” them intensively. If there is enough soil, but the seedlings still stop growing, then, in any case, they lack microelements. Often - boron. Many complex fertilizers contain this microelement, but you can use a simpler and effective way– spraying seedlings with a solution boric acid(0.7 g per 1 liter of water). After targeted feeding, growth is usually restored within 7-10 days.

Growing petunias for seedlings is a fascinating business, not too complicated and economically profitable, which is especially important during a crisis. You will learn how to plant petunia seedlings in our article.

Planting petunia seeds: collect or buy

The easiest way to acquire planting material is to purchase it at the store. Due to the small size of the seeds, some manufacturers coat them. This processing has many advantages:

thanks to the shell, the seeds increase in size, thereby simplifying the planting process;
germination is 100%;
require less attention.

ON THE PICTURE: Dried petunia seeds.

The only “disadvantage” of the dragee is the high price. Procuring material for seedlings yourself will cost several times less. It's very easy to do. You just need to remember the following points:

When gather

Full ripening of seeds takes from 2 to 3 months from the beginning of flowering. The lower few flowers of the plant should not be plucked off after they have withered. We need to wait for the box to turn brown.

ON THE PICTURE: A box of petunia seeds.

how to collect

The dried box must be carefully cut off and placed in a bright place. How to collect petunia seeds: whether to wait until it cracks or to help it open - the owner decides. Then the seeds should be dried at room temperature and diffuse lighting. On average, ripening takes about two months.

Tiny seeds scatter easily, so a shelter, for example, gauze, is necessary.

how to save seeds

First of all, each variety must be allocated a separate envelope. Place the packages in a dry place out of direct sunlight. Planting material should be stored at room temperature.

ON THE PICTURE: Petunia seeds are very small and practically invisible against the background of the soil.

Planting petunias for seedlings: determine the timing

When to sow petunia seeds? An urgent question for flower growers. Early planting will slow down the development and weaken the immunity of plants. Late - will postpone the beginning of flowering.

There is no fixed date. In general, it is recommended to choose mid March when the day gets longer. However, time shifts are quite acceptable. If the windows face south, planting petunia seedlings is possible at the beginning of the month or even at the end of February. In the north, it is better to postpone sowing petunia seedlings until April or provide the seedlings with additional lighting.

ON THE PICTURE: Illumination of petunia seedlings.

Petunia: planting seedlings, preparing the soil

Petunias need light, fertile soil. The soil mixture can be purchased at the store or prepared yourself. To do this, you need to add peat (2 parts) and river sand (1 part) to the ground (1 part).

It is not advisable to use sea sand. Even after thorough washing, salts are likely to have harmful effects on the delicate roots. Also, sea sand is usually finer than river sand. Remember: the smaller the grains of sand, the more the soil cakes and the less air flows in!

The mixture should be sifted and be sure to sterilize. Possible methods:

bake in the oven;
steam in a water bath;
handle .

Otherwise, the risk of sprouts becoming infected with fungal diseases increases. By the way, ready soil for seedlings can also be diluted with sand. Approximate proportions 5:1.

Growing petunia seedlings - first steps

Containers or bowls are filled with prepared soil, moistened, compacted and leveled. Due to the tiny (0.5 mm) size of the seeds, it is difficult to distribute them evenly. Secrets to growing petunia seedlings include using snow. A thin layer of it is poured onto the soil. As a result, dark “dots” are clearly visible on a white background, which allows, if necessary, to move seeds from piles to empty areas.

It is better to plant pelleted seeds one at a time in peat tablets. They must be moistened and, if necessary, the granule must be pierced.

ON THE PICTURE: You can plant pelleted seeds in moistened peat tablets using tweezers.

Seeds should not be buried. For better grip planting material with soil, it can be lightly rolled. The containers are covered with glass or polyethylene and placed on the windowsill. The suitable temperature for petunia seedlings is +20–25°C.

Caring for petunia seedlings

Shoots appear within 1–1.5 weeks. From now on it is necessary to carry out drip irrigation and short ventilation. The period of time that seedlings remain without shelter is gradually increased. The glass or polyethylene is finally removed when the seedlings grow to it.

To grow petunia seedlings strong and healthy, regular watering is necessary. But at the same time, liquid should not be allowed to get on the leaves. Water the sprouts at the root or through a tray.

When and how to plant petunia seedlings? The appearance of 2-3 pairs of true leaves indicates that the seedlings are already cramped in a common container and each needs its own place. Picking is carried out very carefully using a teaspoon or wooden stick. In separate cups, the sprouts are buried down to the cotyledon leaves.

ON THE PICTURE: You can use an ice cream stick to pick seedlings.

10 days after picking, the plants begin to be fed. The best fertilizers for petunia seedlings - liquid complex mineral. They are added every two weeks.

Planted seedlings must be hardened off: gradually reduce the air temperature. Start with a 15-minute stay on a closed loggia, increasing the time spent in the fresh air every day.

An important procedure when growing petunia seedlings is pinching. That's just how it starts active growth stepchildren, and the bush will take the desired shape. It is recommended to pinch over 5–6 sheets.

If growing petunias for seedlings proceeds correctly, then at the end of May the plant is ready for independent existence in a flowerbed, in a container, or a flowerpot.

Growing petunia seedlings - possible problems and their solutions

Unfortunately, growing petunia seedlings sometimes ends in failure. Our information will help you find out why petunia seedlings are dying, what to do to save the plants and, first of all, how to prevent problems.

No seedlings

The reason becomes:

improper (deepening into the soil) sowing of petunias for seedlings;
use of seeds that have lost their viability (with an expired expiration date or stored in unsuitable conditions).

The seeds germinate, but do not shed their shell

This happens if:

the air is too dry. We urgently need to drip warm water to the "case". After waiting until it gets wet, carefully remove it with a toothpick;
seed viability leaves much to be desired. It is better to get rid of frail sprouts immediately; their immunity is initially weakened. Such plants will not live long.

Petunia seedlings fall under their own weight

This happens when you get infected. Causes this fungal disease

high humidity;
thickened planting;
overdose.

Even one of the above conditions is enough to lose the plant. Therefore, it is necessary to ventilate the mini-greenhouse daily and remove drops of condensation from the glass/film. In order not to wonder why petunia seedlings are falling, you need to moderately feed the seedlings and provide them with personal space.

At the first sign of blackleg (the area at the base of the stem darkens), the sprout should be destroyed. Disinfecting the soil with a solution of formaldehyde or potassium permanganate will help save the rest.

Green leaves of seedlings turn yellow

yellowness appeared on the upper leaf blades without affecting the veins - the plant suffers from iron deficiency . It is urgent to introduce this microelement into the soil.
the lower leaves turn yellow - seedlings are watered excessively and/or the nitrogen dose is reduced. After regulating watering and fertilizing, the green color of the foliage is restored.

If petunia seedlings have stretched out

The probable reason is:

poor lighting;
elevated air temperatures.

Seedling growth stops

nutrient reserves in the soil have been depleted. An urgent move to a new, larger capacity is required.
the plant is boron deficient. You need to use fertilizers containing this element or spray the seedlings with a solution of boric acid.

Petunia: planting seeds, choosing varieties

Today it is possible to grow petunia seedlings of all varieties. Of interest to lovers of bush forms are the following varieties:

"Limbo". With a maximum curtain height of 25 cm, it amazes with large (up to 12 cm in diameter) flowers. It is not afraid of bad weather and quickly recovers after rain.

ON THE PICTURE: Dwarf series "Limbo" with large flowers.

"Dreams". Another large-flowered series with brightly colored corollas.

ON THE PICTURE: The "Dreams" series includes 9 varieties of bud colors, as well as a mixture of them.

"Storm". Numerous flowers of rich colors are not afraid of either showers or winds.

ON THE PICTURE: The diameter of the flowers of the "Storm" series reaches 10 cm.

"Triumph". The owner of huge corrugated flowers of unusual color with a dark center. Needs shelter from precipitation.

ON THE PICTURE: Large corrugated flowers distinguish the Triumph variety.

For those who like cascading plants, the series will suit "Ramblin'. The plant quickly forms a flowering dome. It does not exceed 35 cm in height and actively grows on the sides. The color of the flowers ranges from snow-white to dark purple.

ON THE PICTURE: Petunia "Ramblin"

Growing petunia with ampelous seedlings became available relatively recently. The variety series is considered the undisputed leader "Wonder Wave" (formerly called "Fortunia"). The length of branching shoots is over a meter. Flowering lasts until frost arrives. Distinctive feature- uniform color of the petals. In this case the range color range expanded The plant is quite resistant to adverse weather conditions.

Situation No. 1. Petunia does not grow well

1. “dead” seeds (old or dead due to improper storage)
2. buried plantings (petunia needs to be sown superficially; the seeds germinate only in the light)
3. use of pelleted seeds (sometimes the granules are too hard and you need to break them or soak them manually)

Situation No. 2. The seeds sprouted, but did not shed their seed coat

This is bad and indicates that the sprout does not have the strength to drop the seed on its own.

There may be two reasons for this problem:

1. dry air, making the seed coat “impenetrable”
2. old or improperly stored seeds, the sprouts of which come out frail and difficult to adapt to independent life

In the second case, perhaps the sprouts are not worth saving. Even if you get rid of their “cap”, there is a high probability that they will soon die out from something else - the immunity of such plants is too weak and the survival rate is scanty. But in the first case, it is very possible to fight for the life of the seedlings. First, try increasing the humidity. For example, cover the container with seedlings with film (if you have not done this before). Try to soak the shell - drop water from a pipette or syringe onto it, wait until it softens, and then carefully pry it with a needle and remove it. This must be done, otherwise, if the cotyledons do not unfold, the sprout will die.

Situation No. 3. The stem of the sprout becomes thinner at the base and breaks. Seedlings fall

Many novice gardeners have a question about why petunia seedlings are falling. Most likely, the seedlings suffered from a serious disease with an interesting name - “black leg”. It manifests itself like this: a dark area forms at the base of the stem, which softens and begins to rot. Very soon the sprout ceases to support its own weight, falls, and the stem breaks.

Blackleg is a fungal disease, that is, its causative agents are soil fungi. They live in any substrate, but behave entirely peacefully. However, in some situations they begin to become harmful and destroy green spaces. This usually happens at high air and soil humidity. Some gardeners like to create “greenhouses” for their seedlings, arranging extreme humidity there at 100% and at the same time forgetting to ventilate them. In such a climate, “black leg” is practically guaranteed! Greenhouses need to be ventilated every day, the covering material (film, glass) should be wiped clean from drops of condensed water. High humidity is the main reason why petunia seedlings fall. Thickened plantings and excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers also contribute to this disease. If you notice signs of “black leg” on your seedlings, immediately get rid of the affected sprouts - there is nothing you can do to help them. Let's try to save what's left. To do this, it is very desirable to completely change the soil, but this is not always possible, and particles of soil and fungal microorganisms will still remain on the roots of the sprouts. Therefore, it is more realistic to simply disinfect the soil. A 40% formaldehyde solution is very effective in this regard. You can also use a strong solution of potassium permanganate or any fungicide, for example, Maxim.

Situation number 4. Petunia seedlings turn yellow

Yellowness on petunia seedlings not only looks unsightly, but is also a sign that not everything is in order with the plants. If the upper, young leaves turn yellow, and not evenly, but between the veins (the veins remain green), then this is chlorosis - a lack of iron. The seedlings stopped absorbing this microelement and began to turn yellow and weaken. Chlorosis occurs when the soil becomes alkalized, due to its poor quality or excessive watering. Usually, external application of iron in a form accessible to the plant – chelate – helps correct the situation. Iron chelate is included in all drugs against chlorosis, for example, such as “Ferovit”, “Iron Chelate”, etc.

If the lower leaves are affected by yellowness, then the problem is an overflow or lack of nitrogen. Start feeding the seedlings well with nitrogen-containing complex fertilizers or adjust the watering.

Situation No. 5. Petunia seedlings stretching out

If this happens to your seedlings, do not despair. First, trim (pinch) the tops of the sprouts and bury the stems at the cotyledons, and then either provide enough light for the seedlings or reduce the temperature at which they are kept. Then the appearance of your little petunias will return to normal.

Situation No. 6. Petunia seedlings have stopped growing

Seedlings stop developing with a small volume of soil, when all the food that was initially there has already been “eaten.” Distill the sprouts into larger containers, and after 2 weeks begin to “feed” them intensively. If there is enough soil, but the seedlings still stop growing, then, in any case, they lack microelements. Often - boron. Many complex fertilizers contain this microelement, but you can use a simpler and more effective method - spraying the seedlings with a solution of boric acid (0.7 g per 1 liter of water). After targeted feeding, growth is usually restored within 7-10 days.

Petunia is distinguished by its bright and large flowers. During the period of active budding, the small bush is completely covered with large inflorescences. They constantly replace one another, filling the place of the withered one. But in order to have such beauty in your dacha, you need to have the right approach to sowing and growing seedlings. After the young seedling has grown, it is recommended to pick petunia seedlings. Why it is needed and how to produce it correctly, you should find out before starting the main work.

What is seedling picking and why is it needed?

Based on scientific works, then a dive or a picking process is an event to remove the extreme parts of the root system of a shrub. This is necessary to stimulate the increased growth of the root system in young animals.

But another concept has taken root among the people - transplanting a young plant from a common container after planting to a new place of residence in a more spacious flowerpot. When transplanting young seedlings, they migrate either into a separate container or into wide flowerpots, where the distance between individual bushes will be at least 5 cm.

Thus, the picking procedure is necessary so that the seedling has enough space to build up the root system and develop the ground part.

First of all, this is required for rhizomes- transplanting to a new separate place allows the shrub to be fully saturated with nutrients from the ground. The last condition provides a good development for the sheet plates and the formation large quantity flower buds in the future.

In gardening, it is rare to use any of the flowers. root pinching, but for some plant species this is a necessary condition For good growth. Others are not recommended to carry out similar effects.

In most cases, petunias do not require pinching of the root system. It is more beneficial for them if you transfer the seedling to a new place of residence without touching the roots at all and without shaking it off. most earth from the roots. The less the root system of the petunia is injured, the faster the sprout will take root and will not hurt.

Is it possible to grow petunias without picking?

It is possible to grow petunia without picking, and even in some cases it is necessary. For these purposes, it is recommended to take disposable cups, fill them with soil prepared specifically for germinating petunias and place 1-2 seeds in the soil.

After germination, the plant does not have to be pulled out of the ground, injuring the root system. If it is necessary to transplant into a new flowerpot, then a transshipment procedure is carried out, during which not a single root is harmed.

You can also grow petunia seedlings without picking in peat tablets and cassettes. And the procedure for transplanting into open ground or a flowerpot is exactly the same as when planting in cups.

Video: a method of growing petunia without picking

When to pick petunia seedlings

If petunia is grown at home, then you want to create all the conditions for good and fruitful growth for the seedling. Petunia has a well-developed root system; it grows over a large area, completely entwining the entire soil. Therefore, before planting in open ground, it is necessary to replant several times.

The first picking of petunia is done when the first 3-4 true leaves appear. This is necessary so that neighboring seedlings do not interfere with the full development of the newly grown ones. The procedure is carried out approximately 14-16 days after the appearance of the first young shoots.

Attention! The main factor for picking petunia is the density of the planting material.

For example, if the level of thickening was not controlled when sowing petunias for seedlings, then picking the seedlings is mandatory. Almost always, when planting, it turns out that the seedlings appear in a dense forest, so in order for them to grow, they simply need to be replanted.

How to prepare petunia seedlings for picking

In order for the seedlings to painlessly transfer from their home to new lands, it is recommended to prepare them in advance. Therefore, before picking seedlings, you must follow the recommendations:

It takes into account how many full-fledged leaf blades the plant has. If there are less than 3 present, you should refrain from moving to another place of residence for now. Carrying out the procedure too early does not always have a positive effect on the seedling, although experienced gardeners They say that the smaller the seedling, the more favorable the transplant will be.
When starting the transplantation procedure, you must first wet the soil in which the sprouts are located. The event is carried out 20-35 minutes before the planting material is removed from the ground.
Before placing the seedling in fresh soil in a new location, it is recommended dip the root system in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. For this procedure, the product is diluted in a volume of 1 g. for 1 liter of water. This event will allow the root system to avoid the attachment of pathogenic bacteria and various microorganisms.
After the diving process Do not immediately apply mineral and organic fertilizers. Time should be allowed for the root system to produce new young roots and adapt to new living conditions. Fertilizing can only be done after 10-12 days.

Thus, petunia picking is carried out after complete disinfection of its rhizomes. And also, do not rush to apply fertilizers, they can have an adverse effect on the development of planting material.

Methods for picking petunia seedlings

To transplant young petunias into separate flowerpots, several picking methods are used. To choose the most best method transporting seedlings to another pot, flower growers should try each of them on their own and choose the most suitable one for themselves.

The following picking methods are distinguished:

Traditional– carried out when planting non-granulated planting material. In this case, the seedlings appear as a solid wall. When transplanting, it is necessary to place the seedlings either one by one in separate cups, or, if there are a lot of young plants (more than 30 pieces), in one large box with soil. The distance is chosen to be at least 3 cm between the bushes.
Method of filling up the soil– if the seedlings were initially planted in cassettes or cups, then as the stems stretch, you should simply add fresh fertile soil. The soil should be added up to the cotyledon leaf plates. Watering in this case is carried out using a syringe.
Deepening cuttings– if planting is carried out with maintaining the distance between the sprouts, then you should not dive into separate containers. In order to root the plant more, you should prepare wooden stick. With its help, a small trench is made on one side. The petunia stem is carefully laid out in the resulting groove and, if necessary, pinned to the ground. The top is covered with earth.

Thus, in different cases can be used different ways better rooting. It is recommended to choose a certain method so that the seedling is most comfortable during transplantation and is less susceptible to attacks by pathogenic bacteria.

Direct picking of petunia seedlings: step-by-step instructions

Before picking, you should prepare all required material. The first thing you need to do is buy disposable cups or peat pots, and have a wooden spatula or straight knife on hand to help.

Step by step guide Picking petunia seedlings looks like this:

The prepared soil mixture is poured into a cup (or some other container).
Inside you need to make a small indentation (2-3 cm) using your finger or knife.
A small amount of water is introduced into the hole to soften the soil.
Using a knife or other device, you should carefully pull out the seedling, prying it 1.5-2 cm from the base, without shaking off the ground.
The sprout is moved to a new place, the substrate is added on top and lightly compacted around the entire perimeter.

Attention! It is very important that all voids inside the earth are filled. If a hollow space remains, water may stagnate in it, causing rotting of the roots or the addition of fungal diseases.

Video: picking petunia into glasses

Caring for petunia seedlings after picking

After the event, it is not recommended to water newly picked petunias immediately, because a sufficient amount of nutrient moisture was introduced during the preparation of the hole.

In the future, it is necessary to carry out following rules for plant care:

lighting- Petunia loves it very much Sun rays, so it should be installed on the south sides. On cloudy spring days, you should additionally turn on the lighting using phytolamps, otherwise, with a lack of light, the bushes will begin to stretch out and turn pale;
temperature– from the moment the first shoots appear, the air temperature in the room should be at +25 0 C. After transferring to a separate container, it is recommended to gradually reduce the temperature to +18 0 C;
watering– as necessary, it should be such that it does not flood the soil, but keeps the soil in optimal humidity required for normal growth and development;
feeding– performed several times per season. For petunias, you should use a houseplant fertilizer.

What to do if, after picking petunias, the development of seedlings slows down

If there are no obvious reasons, you should dig up the plant and check root condition. If they rot, which means there is a hollow territory left somewhere. Non-viable rhizomes should be removed, placed in a root stimulator and planted in a new pot with fresh soil.

If growth has stopped and the plant gradually withers, perhaps the shrub not enough light. In this case, it should be moved to another place with more daylight and sunlight.

Thus, in order to plant young petunia seedlings, you should adhere to the transplantation rules, and also follow specific care behind the plant. The main thing is to monitor the condition of the seedlings and try to find the reason for the lack of growth until it completely rots or dries out.

Video: growing petunia from seeds - picking seedlings

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