Buying a car is an expensive purchase. Yes, the car can be on all year round outdoors or “winter” under a temporary structure, but how will this affect its technical condition? Think you can build a covered space?
When choosing, the emphasis is on the duration of work and the price category. If earlier it was possible to choose only between an iron and a stationary structure, now frame garages that have come to us from abroad are gaining more and more popularity.
Decided but don't know how to build a garage by frame technology? Let's figure it out together.
One of the main advantages of such buildings is the possibility of independent construction. You will need only one assistant and a developed project, which includes all the necessary drawings (sketches), an approximate calculation of the necessary construction and additional materials. Other benefits include:
- affordability, compared with stationary garages;
- simplicity and short term of the construction process;
- low thermal conductivity, allowing winter time quickly warm the room to the desired temperature;
- strength.
We are offering to you step by step instructions do-it-yourself frame garage, with step by step description works.
Designing the future building
The initial stage in any construction is a sketch or drawing of the future premises. This will save time and money on construction, because you will know how much material you will need for your idea. If earlier the frame garage project, everything necessary calculations had to be done manually, but now there are a lot of special programs on the Internet that will carry out all the calculations with maximum accuracy.
The site on which the construction of the garage is planned should not be far from the house. The preferred distance is up to 10 meters. The construction area must be cleared of plants, debris, roots. The ground on it needs to be tamped and leveled. After preparatory work make a pillow of gravel and sand, on which the foundation will then lie.
Required Tools
For work, you will, at a minimum, need: shovels, gloves, a level, ready-made formwork. Depending on the type of garage, wooden beams will be needed for the frame, it is better to use larch, linden or aspen, or profile pipes. For the base - high-quality concrete mortar.
The choice of type and foundation bay
The foundation is the foundation of any construction, it bears the greatest load. It is on it that the design of the future structure will then be installed.
There are three types of foundation:
- pile or columnar - poured during construction wooden houses or bath. Considered one of the most affordable. The disadvantage is the impossibility of construction without special equipment;
- monolithic slab - this type is poured with the obligatory reinforcement and leveling of the surface. They consider it a disadvantage long term until the mixture is completely dry;
- tape - the most popular type, which fully meets the requirements for strength and affordable cost.
Note! The foundation for a frame garage is selected taking into account the quality of the soil and the level of groundwater.
Based on the fact that the foundation for the frame garage also plays the role of a "subfloor", most often they fill monolithic foundation. Work on the base begins with digging a trench around the perimeter of the future garage. The depth of the trench is 40-50 cm. After that, on three sides of the building, we install the formwork. For this stage you can use substandard boards, plywood, bars of various sizes. If you want to continue to use this formwork again, then it is better to wrap it with oilcloth or other waterproof material.
The next step is tying the reinforcement. It will strengthen the concrete mixture. It is made of metal rods with a diameter of 10-12 millimeters. The final operation - fill the entire perimeter of the site concrete mix and align. It remains to wait for the complete drying of the solution. The concrete screed dries approximately 2-3 weeks.
A garage using frame technology can be drawn either from metal or from wood. Consider the construction of a frame garage for each type of material.
Building a metal garage
This type of garage frame is built from profile pipe, sizes 40x40 and 40x20. The first profile is laid on the base, fastening takes place using anchor bolts. Pipes are welded together. After that, the installation of the entire structure takes place. We “attach” the skin to the elements of the skeleton. In our case, it is metal sheets. If desired - profiled. The most convenient for wall cladding are sheets of C10 metal profile, with dimensions of 2000 x 5 mm. Sheets are overlapped and fastened welding machine. First pointwise, and after the end of the skin - completely. Alternative option self-tapping screws may appear. Choose yourself.
Pay attention! Sheets should be placed so that the overlap is from top to bottom. Thus, moisture will not get under the material.
To positive properties metal profile can be attributed to its incombustibility, strength, speed of installation. By the "cons" - the need to use welding.
Timber frame garage
Most often, the frame of the garage is made of wood. Due to the fact that wood is easily susceptible to decay and other natural influences, all elements must be treated with specialized substances before starting work that can eliminate these material properties.
It should be noted that a wooden frame garage is the most budget option of this building. As with the metal frame, wooden garage also begin to build from pouring the foundation. For the lower trim, it is better to use bars with dimensions of 100x50 mm, which are fastened with anchor bolts. For further work, it is better to use bars 100x100 or 150x150 mm. For better stability of the structure, it is recommended to make a gap between vertical structural elements of 30-120 cm.
Sheathing for a wooden frame can be:
- moisture resistant plywood;
- osb plate;
- boards.
Note! These materials for sheathing can be deformed under the influence of the external environment, so it is necessary to make gaps (expansion joints) of 3-5 mm between the plates.
We fasten the selected material with self-tapping screws for wood or with “ruff nails”. A gap of 300 mm should remain between adjacent nails in the center of the sheet, and 150 mm must be retreated from the edge of the sheet. To avoid splitting the edges, we screw the fasteners, leaving a gap of 10 mm, without tightening too much.
Roof and gate structures
Well, the walls are in place, let's move on to mounting the roof. It happens - flat, single-sided and double-sided. Flat roof, the easiest installation option, but the most at risk of deformation. Therefore, choose either a single or gable roof. The slope in such roofs will not allow snow to be fixed on them and it will fall to the ground under its own weight. This technological operation begins with the fixing of the truss system. Keep in mind that it is on it that the entire load from precipitation will be shifted. Parts of the rafter system are fastened together with puffs, which will unload the ridge beam. Choice roofing material depends on your financial resources. It can be classic or metal tiles, slate, corrugated board.
Gate installation is The final stage. According to the method of opening, they are divided into sliding, sectional, hinged or retractable. After installing the system, do not forget to treat the surface with a primer and paint to prevent corrosion.
Insulation, outer and inner lining
Wall insulation will help maintain a normal temperature inside the room. To do this, during the construction of walls, a heater is placed between the skin. It can be glass or mineral wool, polystyrene.
The inner part of the wall can be sheathed with wooden or PVC lining, chipboard sheets or fiberboard and others facing materials. For long-term operation of the garage, the outer surfaces should also be lined. In this case, I also use lining, veneer decorative brick, siding.
With a skillful approach, it will take you a little more than a month, including the time for drying the foundation. Buy the right materials you can in the markets or in specialized stores, explore the options - on the Internet and then the task of “how to build a frame garage with your own hands” will no longer seem so impossible. Good luck!
When starting to build a garage, most people are wondering: how to do it with minimal cost funds and time? If you are also interested in this question, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the presented article, in which we will consider in detail the process of building an inexpensive garage in a short time.
How to reduce the cost of a building - frame technology or lightweight concrete
Garage from traditional materials, for example, made of brick will be expensive, and the process of its construction is not fast. Therefore, in order to solve the problem, one should resort to modern technologies and cheap building materials. As for budget technologies, the undisputed leader is frame construction. Its principle is based on the construction of a frame from a bar, which is sheathed sheet material.
You can build such a garage very quickly, while it will turn out to be strong enough and able to reliably protect the car from various negative influences. environment. And if you insulate it and provide heating, then in such a garage you can comfortably service a car even in winter. The only negative is that its base is wooden, so the durability of the structure is somewhat limited, especially if it is not looked after.
If you do not want to build a frame garage, you can go the second way - use cheap wall materials, such as:
- blocks of lightweight concrete (aerated concrete, foam concrete or polystyrene concrete);
- cinder blocks;
- expanded clay concrete blocks, etc.
The construction technology of these blocks is almost the same as the construction of bricks. But due to the fact that one block is equal in size to several bricks, the laying speed increases several times. Such blocks are inexpensive in comparison with the same brick, since they are hollow, moreover, they are made of cheap materials.
Please note that a porous concrete block garage requires an exterior finish, as this material absorbs moisture well. If the walls are not finished, the life of the building will be greatly reduced.
As an example, consider how cheap it is to build a frame garage, since its technology is fundamentally different from the construction of a brick or block structure.
We create a project - all the nuances should be on paper
Before we start building a garage with our own hands, we will prepare a project. First of all, we need to decide on the size of the future structure. Since our task is to build a budget garage, optimal dimensions 4x6 m. They will be quite enough for almost any car. Of course, if necessary, you can adjust the dimensions "for yourself."
Then we draw up a frame drawing. Its basis is the racks, which we will install in the corners, as well as along the walls with a step of 60 cm. We will tie the bottom and top of the rack with a strapping. To give the structure rigidity, we will strengthen the rack with struts and jumpers. To reduce the cost of construction, we will make the roof single-pitched. To do this, one wall must be higher than the opposite. It is best to make a high wall on the entry side so that the water from the roof flows down behind the garage. You can even draw a frame by hand, the main thing - do not forget to indicate the dimensions of all parts in millimeters.
Another point that we need to decide on at the design stage is the foundation. If the soil is unstable, for example, swampy, we make the foundation slab. In almost all other cases, the optimal solution is a strip shallow foundation, which is associated with the minimum weight of the structure.
Foundation preparation - making the garage stable
Regardless of what the foundation will be, first we prepare the site: we apply markings and remove the top vegetation layer of the soil. If the foundation is tape, we dig trenches around the perimeter with a depth of about half a meter. If the foundation is slab, we deepen the entire site by about 40 cm. We fill the bottom of the trenches or the platform with sand by 20 cm and carefully tamp it down.
Please note that it will take about a month to build the foundation, if it is poured on your own, since concrete gains strength within 28 days. To speed up the process, you can use ready-made foundation slabs or blocks. But in this case, the financial costs will increase. Therefore, you must decide for yourself: what is more important for you - the cost or the speed of construction.
To make the foundation completely on our own, we install formwork from boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. An important element of the foundation is the reinforcing frame. For a strip foundation, we make a frame of reinforcement in the form of a rectangular parallelepiped. The reinforcement diameter should be 0.8 mm. For slab foundation the frame is made of mesh with a cell of 200x200 mm and a reinforcement diameter of 0.8 mm. The mesh is laid in two layers at a distance of about 150 mm.
The formwork is poured with M200 concrete, rammed and leveled. After 28 days after pouring over the foundation (between the walls and the base), we lay a couple of layers of roofing material or other bituminous waterproofing material.
If you decide to do strip foundation from ready-made blocks, they are simply laid in prepared trenches and fastened together cement mortar. The slab base of prefabricated slabs is laid in the same way. The only thing is that lifting equipment is required to perform this work.
Construction of the box - we assemble the "skeleton" and sheathe it
Now that the base is ready, you need to make a frame. We begin work with laying the lower trim along the perimeter of the foundation. To do this, we use a bar with a section of 100x100 mm, we fix it on concrete with the help of anchors. Between ourselves we connect the timber in the corners "in half a tree" and fasten it with self-tapping screws and corners.
Next, we install racks 100x100 mm at the corners of the building and align them vertically. To attach the racks to the bottom trim, we use screws and steel corners. Additionally, we strengthen the racks with struts, which can be made from boards 20-30 mm thick. Immediately we connect all the corner posts from above with a strapping of a 100x50 mm beam. After that, we install racks along the walls with a step of 600 mm. Wall racks can be made from boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm and a width of 100 mm. We fix and strengthen them in the same way as the corner posts.
Then, from the side of the entrance, we install racks 100x100 mm, to which the gate will be attached, and connect them together with a beam of the same section. As a result, an opening will be formed. To strengthen it, you can install a metal frame around the perimeter from a corner or channel.
Before proceeding with the assembly of the frame, treat all boards and timber with fire-bioprotective impregnation, which will increase the durability of the structure.
Next, we carry out the roof frame. To do this, we lay rafters from boards 30x100 mm on the Mauerlat (upper frame trim). Because pitched roof will be subjected to a large snow load, the step between the rafters is no more than 40 mm. In order to securely fix the rafters, we make cuts in the Mauerlat along the thickness of the rafters. We nail a board 100 mm wide to the ends of the rafters around the perimeter.
Now that the frame is ready, you can immediately sheathe the walls. To make the building warm, we fill the space of the frame mineral wool in slabs. This heater is cheaper than many others thermal insulation materials, but at the same time durable, fireproof and, most importantly, has a low thermal conductivity.
From the side of the room, we cover the walls with a vapor barrier film. To make the vapor barrier tight, we overlap the joints of the film sheets and glue them with double-sided adhesive tape. On the outer side of the wall, we cover it with a wind-moisture protective membrane in the same way and seal the joints with high quality.
In order to leave a ventilation gap between the skin and the films, we attach a crate of wooden slats not less than 20 mm thick. To fasten the rails, we use ordinary screws. To save money, we will not pre-sheathe the outer walls. OSB boards ami, and immediately install the siding. The only thing is that it is desirable to use durable metal siding.
To fasten the siding along the perimeter of the walls from below, we fasten the starting bar with screws, and also install it at all corners corner profiles. Then we simply fill the siding panels into the corner profiles and fasten them to the crate with screws. WITH inside the garage can be sheathed with any sheet material such as plywood or OSB. You can fix the sheathing on the crate with nails or screws.
When installing OSB boards or plywood, do not forget to provide expansion joints with a thickness of about 5 mm. These seams should be filled with sealant.
We lay the roof - we make the room dry and warm
Now let's start installing the roof. Since the rafters are already there, it remains to lay the roofing cake. We begin work by fixing the vapor barrier and the crate from the inside of the garage. Lathing slats must be placed across the rafters. On the outside, we lay insulation between the rafters.
Then we lay a super-diffuse waterproofing membrane on the rafters. As on the walls, on the roof the membrane is additionally fixed with rails, which serve as a counter-lattice. On top of the counter-lattice, we lay boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm perpendicular to the rafters in increments of about 30 cm.
Now you need to lay the roofing. Great solution for our construction is corrugated board - it is an inexpensive and durable material. Sheets of corrugated board are laid with a longitudinal and transverse overlap and fastened to the crate with screws. Fasteners are placed through the wave in a checkerboard pattern. You can use another option roofing, for example, slate, which is also inexpensive. The principle of its installation resembles the laying of corrugated board, only instead of screws we use slate nails.
On this garage is almost ready, now it remains to install the gate. To save money, you can search the ad for suitable used metal gate. If not slab, at the end of the work we make the floor. For these purposes, you can put paving slabs or pour concrete screed.
This completes the work. If all actions are performed correctly, as a result, the garage will turn out not only strong and durable, but also warm. At the same time, its cost will be several times lower than a traditional brick garage.
Garage appears in some areas earlier at home. You can spend the night in a tent yourself, and put the car under the roof. Therefore, the question of how to build a garage with your own hands is not idle. We start by choosing a location.
Location selection
Choosing a place for a garage is not an easy task. I really want it to be convenient to use, but at the same time so that the building does not spoil appearance site. Immediately you need to decide whether it will be freestanding or attached to a house or other building on the site.
- Standing separately. This option is chosen if the house has already been built and / or the shape of the site is such that the access roads take up too much space. In this case, it makes sense to move the building closer to entrance gate, or make the garage door open directly onto the street.
- Being part of the building. It can be a house or a hozblok, and the garage itself can be built along with the building, or attached later. Good if the house is built close to the border of the site. It is attractive because there is no need to think about how to heat it and pull additional communications.
At self construction the garage is most often placed separately, since the extension to the already existing home requires serious measures to strengthen the foundation, and this is definitely not cheap. Cheaper to build separately. Only when choosing a place, it must be borne in mind that the distance to the neighbor's site must be at least 1 m, and the entrance at a distance of at least 10 meters from the neighbor's windows. The distance to the nearest residential building is also normalized. It should be more than 9 meters if the house is made of non-combustible material and 15 meters if the house is fire hazardous.
The gate opens directly onto the street - one of the good options
Dimensions and designs
First you need to decide for what purpose the garage will be used. If this is just a parking lot, the dimensions can be done back to back - add one meter in length and width to the dimensions of the car. That's enough for a parking space. If the garage will also be held repair work you need a lift or viewing hole, a bunch of equipment and spare parts, then the dimensions should be larger. It is advisable to leave at least a meter on the sides and the same in front. Behind, half a meter is still enough. If the garage is used as a workshop or as a club, the dimensions can be even larger. Restrictions only in the available space and the budget for construction.
With or without hole
The most important thing is to decide whether you will make a hole or not. It depends on how and what kind of foundation you will make. You can make a basement under the garage, and the pit will be the “entrance” or only part of the occupied space. The option is attractive, but expensive and requires large volumes of earthworks.
The second option is more economical: only a pit 1.8-2 meters deep and about 1 meter wide. The width is optimal, but the height depends on the height and it is better to choose this parameter individually: the depth should be 15-20 cm more than your height. The length of the pit is about 2 m. This is enough to inspect any passenger car.
The floor in the garage without a pit is even easier to implement. Then it just fills up without any problems.
Foundation for a garage
The foundation for a garage without a pit can be anything, even a tape, even a pile-grillage. Another issue is that you still have to fill the floor. And if so, then it’s easier to immediately make a monolithic reinforced slab and not make the foundation first, and then the floor.
Tape - monolithic and prefabricated
Pile or pile-grillage
An economical foundation, which for some reason is rarely used for garages. Pile in its pure form under the garage is not very suitable - the floor turns out to be raised above the ground, but if you make a check-in, you can use it. He and pile-grillage with a low grillage - great option for heaving soils (clay, loams with high level groundwater).
The pile is connected to the grillage - this is a pile-grillage foundation
In the manufacture of a pile-grillage around the perimeter, a shallow pit is dug in the form of a tape (about 40-50 cm deep). In it, in increments of 1.5-2 meters, wells are drilled below the freezing depth of the soil, formwork is inserted into them ( plastic pipe or rolled roofing felt). Three or four bars of reinforcement are placed inside the formwork with a release of 70 cm and poured with concrete. After that, the formwork is placed on the tape and the reinforcing cage for the tape is knitted, connecting it with the reinforcement of the piles. And it is also filled with concrete.
Monolithic slab
Suitable for any type of soil. Along the perimeter, it is made larger than the dimensions of the garage by at least 30 cm. They remove the soil, digging a foundation pit 40-45 cm deep. Level the bottom, pour a layer of gravel. Its thickness is about 20-25 cm. The gravel is well rammed, using a vibrating plate if possible.
Formwork is placed along the perimeter, reinforcement is placed on the compacted bedding in increments of 15-20 cm (along and across, getting a cage). They usually use 10-14 mm in diameter, two tiers of reinforcement, the distance between which is about 20 cm. All this is poured with concrete grade M 250 - M 300.
What are the walls made of?
Most of the walls in the garage are made of building blocks. It can be (foam block and gas block), or maybe with filler made of slag or expanded clay. They are good because they are warm in themselves and there are no problems with subsequent heating of the garage: a small stove is enough to heat the air up to normal temperatures. True, with such a choice it is necessary exterior finish. It is usually made the same as at home or as similar as possible.
The second popular garage wall construction technology is frame. The frame is made of a metal profile pipe or impregnated with flame retardants (flammability-reducing additives) wooden beam. Sheathing can be any - from sheet metal to siding (on metal), lining, imitation timber, plywood (moisture resistant) or OSB. Yes, some materials are combustible and cannot be called reliable, but if you need a cheap garage, for example, for a summer residence, and only as a temporary parking lot, then why not.
Gates
Garage doors can be swing, retractable, lifting. Swing - the simplest and well-known to everyone. If desired, they can be automated (as read).
Heating and insulation of the garage
If you plan to use the garage all year round, it is necessary either to immediately make the walls warm (from blocks with low thermal conductivity) or to insulate those built using frame technology. Materials for insulation are standard: mineral wool, polystyrene (extruded or ordinary foam). There is another option for non-combustible insulation, which in the case of a garage is just a great option - low-density foam concrete. It can be laid between the racks of the frame. Non-flammable, inexpensive, keeps heat well. The only bad thing is that you can’t hang anything on it, but there are frame racks, so you can mount it on them.
There are two types of organization of heating in the garage: constant and periodic. The constant can be separate or part of the heating of the house. If done separately, this is the same house system, only in a smaller volume. It turns out expensive and difficult: a separate boiler, which also needs to be maintained and controlled.
One of the options to organize heating in the garage is to hold on to a branch from the house. But it’s also not easy here: a pipeline that requires good insulation, a large amount of land work for its laying, and, preferably, not just into the ground, but into the sewer.
Periodic heating - stoves such as bourgeois stoves and their modifications. You can heat them with firewood, all sorts of combustible rubbish, which is usually enough. But the most attractive idea is to make a stove for testing - there is a lot of fuel around, and for free (or almost). There are different designs, they are described with the article "".
This type of heating is the easiest to organize: he put a stove and a fire, but there is less comfort. Firstly, the heat is mainly near the stove, and secondly, you come to a cold garage and melt it until it starts to warm up ...
Drawings and diagrams
Photo reports from construction
Often the essence technological processes it is difficult to understand from a verbal description, but drawings or photos help to put everything in its place. More questions arise about frame garages. They are the cheapest and are built quickly. A few examples are given below.
Wooden frame garage
The garage was built 4 * 6.5 m, with a gazebo 4 * 2 m. The lumber was delivered ahead of time, impregnated with an antiseptic and stacked in ventilated piles to dry.
The foundation is made columnar. Wells with a depth of 150 cm and a diameter of 35 cm were made with a manual drill. Sleeves made of roofing felt were placed in them, three rods of plastic reinforcement were inserted, and they were filled with concrete.
Two weeks later, when the concrete was almost ready, they began to put up the walls. The bottom harness was assembled first. Used timber 150 * 100 mm. The harness was installed on three sides, the fourth remained open - there will be an entrance.
The problem was the relationship with plastic fittings. Not a particularly good idea: they drilled holes under it, but it’s not clear how to fix it further. Anchors were fixed in concrete (two per pole), and holes with reinforcement were filled with epoxy. Whether they will help or not is not clear, but we hope to keep it somehow.
Further, racks were placed above each column (1.5 meter step). They must be placed strictly up, without deviations, otherwise the structure will be unstable - bursting loads will appear. We started from the corners. One was exposed, fixed with temporary braces, then nailed, moved on to the next. The rest were leveled according to the set angles, not forgetting to check the verticality (with a plumb line, since the level gives an error). Fastened on nails, reinforced with metal mounting plates.
So that the free ends of the lower harness do not move apart, they were temporarily fastened with a board.
After installing all the racks, logs were attached below. They gave rigidity, and it is needed, as we will climb up and fasten the upper harness.
We continue to collect the frame of the garage
When all the beams are installed and assembled, we begin to assemble the truss system. It was decided to make the roof sloping, and it is temporary. Subsequently, the garage will be adjacent to the house (this is the first building on the site).
Having collected the required number of trusses, they installed them on the upper harness. They fixed it with pieces of boards to the racks on both sides, then they hammered it with nails, reinforced it with corners on self-tapping screws.
The rafters must also be placed exactly up, otherwise the roof will be taken away in winter. Therefore, how correctly it is worth checking often: before scoring, and after ....
After everything was installed and fixed, the crate was laid. A board 40 * 150 mm went on it, it was laid with a gap of 40 cm.
A corrugated board was stuffed on the crate.
We started to make the gate fastening area. Installed a beam at the top and sides.
The gates will be lift-and-turn. Under them, a frame is cooked inside, along which they will drive off. A gate frame is welded from a profile pipe 25 * 50 mm according to the size of the opening (with a small gap).
It is necessary to fasten the sheets with a gap of about 10 mm. For moisture-temperature expansion.
There is still a lot of work, but basically everything is ready. Rubble was poured inside until the floor was poured, but the car can already be parked, as well as drinking tea in the gazebo))
Do-it-yourself garage on a strip foundation
Garage for two cars (separate boxes) unheated. They were built on sandy soil with a low location of groundwater. Because the foundation is shallow. They dug a trench around the perimeter, put up the formwork, tied the reinforcing cage. Everything is as usual. Filled with concrete.
Inside the tape, they took out excess soil, leveled the foundation pit. The bottom was covered and covered with sand. It was spilled and rammed (with a vibrating plate).
Packed sand
A polyethylene film was laid on top (for waterproofing), a metal mesh was laid and poured with M300 concrete.
The height of the screed is 10 cm. They left it to set for 2 weeks. Then we started putting up the frame. Boards 50 * 150 mm went to the frame itself and the rafter system, struts and jibs are made of 100 * 25 mm.
In the corners, additional boards were placed - for reinforcement. Racks are also reinforced in the places where doors and windows are attached. Installation step! walks "- the dimensions are small, but you need something door block, then put a window. I divided the rest as it turned out, but did not do more than 60 cm.
immediately gathered and rafter system. Since load-bearing beams passed in the middle, they relied on them rafter legs. They were placed at a distance of about 50 cm. For reinforcement at the attachment points, metal mounting plates and corners were used. They were put on self-tapping screws, the frame elements were connected with a long nail.
A windproof membrane is stuffed on top of the frame. On it is a crate of an inch board, the pitch of the crate is about 50 cm.
After stuffing the membrane and the crate, installation began outer skin garage. This is a metal profile on the walls and ondulin on the roof. There are no difficulties. Cut to size, fasten with self-tapping screws.
Having spread the membrane on the roof (start from the bottom, glue the joints) and nail the crate, we mount the ondulin. It must be placed from below, moving up.
It takes longer to fiddle with filing overhangs. They were sewn up with perforated siding (remains from building a house). Installed dry wood wind board 145*20 mm, painted in White color.
There are wooden windows painted white and a cheap Chinese door, which will later be replaced and placed in a shed. Corners trimmed wooden board 145*20 mm, painted to match the roofing material.
Almost the result: more gates and insulation
The entrance was prepared: on the one hand, when pouring the foundation, an extended tape was poured (the height difference is greater). On the other hand, they were supported by a board. They fell asleep with screenings, tamped. Entrance is ready.
Roller blinds were installed last. At first, lift-and-turn doors were planned, but the price for them became merciless, therefore a cheaper option was installed.
Every car owner will agree that leaving vehicles in the open is extremely unsafe. Prolonged exposure to atmospheric precipitation can cause irreversible corrosion processes, and the appearance vehicle will worsen over time. Given these facts, many car owners are thinking about building do-it-yourself garage, drawings, photos and videos can be seen in the article.
Building a garage is a long-term investment, so you need to build a large building, and taking into account future needs. It is equally important to make the object beautiful and practical. If you think over the details in advance, then the garage will fit well into the landscape and become one with the surrounding buildings.
Do-it-yourself garage foundation
First of all, you need to decide on the size of the garage and the width of the gate. The dimensions will be affected by the number of machines and equipment that will be located indoors. Average garage size standard sizes is 6x4 meters, and the height is 2.5-3 meters. Usually this size is enough to fit a car and tools with racks inside.
You need to start making the foundation by digging a trench for pouring it. Usually a depth of one and a half, two bayonets of a shovel is enough with a margin. With such a foundation, the structure will be quite stable, and the load will be with a double margin.
Even before pouring, you need to buy a sand and gravel machine, at least 20 bags of cement. For the manufacture of formwork you will need boards. It is important to strengthen the foundation with reinforcement, which will be filled with mortar.
First of all, the area where it is planned to locate the garage must be cleared of plants and shrubs. After that, it is worth trying to plan the ground so that the surface is flat and without slopes. After that, you can start marking with pegs and strong rope. The marking is carried out taking into account the estimated dimensions of the future garage. The result should be a rectangle with equal diagonals.
It may be necessary to carry out several fittings and adjustments until the markup is perfect. This is very important, because in the future you will need to navigate it. Since the base of the garage will have a solid foundation, when marking out, additional space must be provided for placing the formwork. Usually it is enough to make the markings 15-20 centimeters wider, and the shields will be installed easily.
Shields for the foundation are made from boards that were purchased in advance. The boards are knocked down tightly one to the other so that there are no gaps. In the manufacture, you must follow the calculations and do everything strictly, observing the planned dimensions. In this case, the height of the shield does not matter much. The finished structure must be installed in a dug trench and firmly fixed with iron stakes that are driven into the ground. Next, the reinforcement is laid and fastened at different levels in height with the help of a knitting wire. Small pieces of rebar can be used as jumpers.
When the formwork is erected, you can immediately proceed to the next step - pouring concrete. Many garage builders use a concrete mixer to save time, which very quickly, with minimal effort, and most importantly, mixes the ingredients together with high quality, so that the concrete will turn out to be homogeneous and plastic. It is very important to perform concrete work on pouring the foundation in one day, this will allow it to be completed in the form of a solid monolith. After pouring concrete, it must be carefully compacted so that there are no air cavities. After pouring, the concrete hardens and gains maximum strength within one month. Fresh concrete must be watered to prevent cracking. For the same purposes, you can cover it with a film, which will protect it from the drying effects of the sun and wind. However, the formwork can be removed after 7-10 days.
Building a garage with your own hands
For the construction of walls, you will need to purchase laying blocks, sand, cement, masonry mesh, roofing material, timber and edged board, steel corners. Ruberoid is necessary for the manufacture of gaskets between the foundation and blocks. Therefore, it must be cut into strips, the average size of which is 25 cm. Cutting is easily carried out with a sharp knife, which is moistened with water each time for better glide. Experienced Builders it is recommended to lay out strips of roofing material around the entire perimeter of the foundation in two layers and overlap.
Next, the process of laying blocks or bricks begins. It is better to cut large blocks immediately with a grinder into two halves, since they are needed not only whole. If the halves are prepared, then when laying, you will not have to be distracted from the process. The solution is also kneaded in a concrete mixer in the following proportion, namely:
- three parts of sand;
- one part of cement;
- water as needed.
Within one working day, walls can be erected no higher than 4 rows around the perimeter. Thus, in about a week, you can complete all the work. At the final stage of masonry, you need to install jumpers above the gate. For this, a metal corner is suitable.
Do-it-yourself garage roof is done in the usual way. Can be placed with a crane concrete plates, make a roof on your own, gable with installation wooden rafters over which a metal roof is attached. Next, the structure is sheathed with wood. The roof can be insulated with mineral wool and roofing material.
All about building a garage with your own hands in the video:
Build a garage with your own hands, photo and video drawings will make the task easier. The most important thing is the preparation of each construction stage. If any details of the process raise questions, you need to consult with a specialized specialist. However, if you try, then in a month and a half you can completely build a garage and put it into operation. Continue reading on the site
Many vehicle owners are wondering how to quickly build a garage from inexpensive building materials. A car that stands in the open air is exposed to various atmospheric influences. This not only burns out the paintwork, but also quickly corrodes the body, assemblies and parts under the hood.
The cheapest garage is the metal “shell” famous in the 90s or a ready-made prefabricated metal one. But this is not at all the best option, since condensate collects there, there are temperature drops, which also negatively affects the car, but it is better to build a warm room.
Today there are many building materials for the construction of the building. They differ from each other not only in cost, but also in specific gravity, which determines the type of foundation for the structure. The lighter the structure, the less powerful the foundation can be made.
Foundation laying
Under a heavy structure, it is better to make a strip foundation; for a light one, it is enough to make a columnar one. The only thing that must not be forgotten is that even if an inexpensive columnar foundation is being built, it must be laid to the freezing depth. In our latitudes, this is at least 80 cm. A columnar foundation, of course, will reduce the cost of building a garage. Some argue that the foundation can be laid in a trench 40 cm deep. But then it can be excruciatingly painful when, after a cold winter, the structure “leads” due to the fact that the foundation will crack and begin to collapse. This effect may not be noticed immediately - only after a few years.
Before starting construction, you need to carefully calculate all the costs and weigh your financial capabilities.
Only after that you can decide what to build a cheap option from.
Construction materials
What is needed for construction
- Used brick - the material is quite cheap, warm and reliable. But it is worth considering that often its surface does not have an attractive or even decent appearance. This means that walls made of such material will either have to be plastered or covered with other finishing materials. And this will make the whole structure more expensive than some of the new materials.
- Sandwich panels - modern construction material. It is distinguished by low weight, ease and speed of installation of structures from it. Most types of these panels do not require external and interior decoration. These are three-layer slabs with an internal insulation layer and a coating on the outer sides of metal, expanded polystyrene or magnesite board. They have enough big sizes(from 1000 × 2000 mm), which speeds up the installation of structures made of them. It is worth noting that for the construction of such panels you need to make a frame. It can be made of wood, metal or even reinforced concrete structures. Most commonly used metal carcass. It is strong and durable, does not give, unlike wood, shrinkage and shrinkage. And yet you can build a frame out of wood. Such wall material, like "sandwiches", allows you to carry out all stages of the construction of the structure yourself.
- Decking can also be attributed to those building materials from which you can build a garage at low cost. Such a design is arranged on a metal or wooden frame. In this case, you must not forget to take into account the costs of warming the building. Since without wall and ceiling insulation, it will be the same tin can with all its shortcomings as the finished prefabricated one.
- OSB boards are also popular today among those who build lightweight structures. The advantage of OSB is that it is not affected by moisture like other lumber. OSB acquired this property due to its three-layer structure, where in the outer layers the chips are located horizontally on the surface of the plate, and in the inner layer - vertically. From this material, you can build a fairly cheap room for a car. Its construction will not take much time, because. also performed on the frame, and the dimensions of the plate are quite large. The spans between the racks of the frame should not exceed 1.2 m, because OSB-plates - the material is quite flexible. Large spans will make the structure fragile. Thickness wall slabs must be at least 18 mm. On sale there are also plates with a thickness of 22 mm. Outside, the walls of this material can be finished with siding. But this operation should not be done immediately if there are not enough funds. It is allowed to start covering the walls plastic wrap, because OSB-plates resist moisture well. Warming from the inside is not necessary. But if you still want to insulate the room, you can do it over time, when additional financial opportunities appear. Inside the room, there will be a space between the racks of the frame that can be filled with mineral wool or foam.
To build this structure with your own hands, it is not necessary to own a profession. It is enough to have elementary skills: the ability to work with a hammer, screwdriver, electric saw.
The first and obligatory stage is the creation of the project. For this, you can also not resort to the services of a designer. After all, the garage is a simple rectangular box. The best option- 4x6 m with a height of 2 m. If you build it for a minibus, then you can make the width and length a little more (although this is not necessary), and the height - 2.5 m.
Construction project
To optimize construction costs, there is nothing left but to build a frame garage. In accordance with the dimensions, you need to calculate the number of racks. At the same time, do not forget that the spans between them must correspond to the width wall panels taking into account the fact that they are fastened end-to-end, and the sandwich panels are overlapped (they have special locks for this purpose).
Today it is prestigious to have automatic lifting gate but they are expensive. Therefore, if you decide to meet the minimum budget, then choose the cheaper option. You can purchase the same in appearance, but with a mechanical (manual) lifting of the gate leaf. But still, this element should not be neglected.
Automatic lifting gates
There is one more structural element, which will help optimize the cost of construction. Instead of gable roof, which requires the construction of a fairly complex truss system, you can make a shed. Under it, the truss system is much simpler. But do not neglect its strength, as this may affect the strength of the entire structure. slope pitched roof should not be less than 25°, so as not to create excessive snow load on the structure and it did not collapse.
During construction, one should not forget that the floor must be above ground level, so that neither rain nor ground water didn't get inside. To do this, it is not necessary to immediately make a concrete screed. You can strew the floor with rubble and tamp it down. Over time, when funds appear, it will be possible to make a screed on this crushed stone base.
Video: foam block construction
Sometimes new vehicle owners start thinking about how to quickly build a garage when rains and then colds are coming. You can quickly build a frame and sheathe it. This will take 2-3 weeks. But it is important to remember that the foundation, which is mandatory for any stationary structure, must be defended for at least 3 weeks until it gains 70% strength. Therefore, if you want to build a room for the rainy and cold season, you need to start work in the spring, as soon as the ground has completely thawed.
