Well      06/13/2019

Planting, care and pruning of fruit trees. Seasonal gardening: garden care in early spring and winter

Every gardener faces a challenge every year. spring training garden after winter. Trees and shrubs require inspection, as well as the necessary procedures, so that at the end of summer or early autumn you can get the expected harvest, so we will discuss the main stages of garden preparation, as well as talk about problems and their solutions.

Where to start

In early spring, when the temperature is rapidly approaching zero or above zero, we need to do a lot of work to prepare fruit trees and shrubs. Starting with snow removal. Many crops have brittle shoots, so sticking melting snow, the mass of which is not so small, can damage shoots and young branches. To prevent this from happening, you need to walk around the garden and gently shake off the snow on the ground.

After you have removed the snow from the aboveground parts of the plants, you should examine the skeletal branches of trees and tall shrubs. If some of them are bent, care should be taken to build a support. As it, you can use iron bars welded in the form of the letter “Y”, or find a branch like a slingshot of sufficient length.

If the lower branches are bent, then they can be tied to the upper ones. At the same time, it should be understood that it should be tied to skeletal thick branches that will definitely withstand the mass of a sagging shoot. If a similar problem arose with a small shrub, then for a while all the shoots can be tied up in one bunch. When the snow melts, you can trim, or if everything goes well, the shoot will remain in the position in which you secured it.

Next, we need to take care of site humidity. If your garden is located on a slope, you need to create natural obstacles, otherwise the melt water will descend into the lowlands, and the trees and shrubs will lose the necessary moisture.

Important! Melt water collected in a container will help you save on irrigation. Also, this water is soft and contains trace elements, so it is better to save it.

To prevent this from happening, create small shafts of melting snow across the site. So that the flowing water collides with an obstacle, and does not continue its movement along the slope.

Next, you should make sure that if or appears, you have everything at hand. For this check stocks of poisons and other chemical substances , which you used last year to deal with intruders. Many of them have a short expiration date, so you can automatically apply an already expired chemical. The effectiveness of such a tool, as you understand, will be close to zero.
After the snow melts, you need to start cleaning the area from plant debris. All leaves, branches, dry grass should be removed, and care should be taken first weeds.

Inspection of fruit and berry crops

After the initial inspection, we proceed to identify possible problems with plants planted in the garden. It is impossible to delay, since the lack of timely intervention will lead to a decrease in yield or death of the crop.

We start with the bark. We examine the shoots and trunk of plants for the presence of scratches, cracks, burns, lack of bark. If there is damage, you need to find out the cause of their occurrence. If they are caused by activities, then various poisons should be prepared in advance. If the problem was provoked by sunburn - we carry out whitewashing.
Cracks may appear on the branches and trunk. It is impossible to leave everything as it is, since a violation of the integrity of the shoot or trunk leads to further damage by pests. To prevent this from happening, you need to properly close the crack. To do this, you should first cut off the dead bark, and then remove the dead wood. If you don't do this and just plug the hole, the dead tissue will begin to decompose, causing rotting. It is necessary to clean dead tissue until living wood and bark appear.

Allow time to dry after cleaning. This will take 1-2 days, after which the "wound" must be treated and closed. Treated with any copper-containing substance, it is best to take or. At the end, the problem area is covered with a liquid solution of clay or by special means for putty.

Video: cleaning and treating a wound on a fruit tree

We turn to problems with broken or dry shoots. If you notice that some of the shoots on the tree are too dry and do not have live buds, then you need to take care of their removal. Trim dry branches with a hacksaw or pruner. We cut until we see living tissue. The cut must be even. After pruning, we must cover all cuts so that the tree is not hit.

Separately, it is worth talking about what to do with the hollows formed in the trunk. We will solve the problem in the same way as in the case of cracks. First, we clean the hollow from dead tissues, after which we process it with copper-containing preparations and completely cover it cement mortar.

Did you know? The oldest garden in the world is Levens Hall, which is located in the north-west of England. The garden was created in the 17th century, and the trees that were planted at the time of foundation still grow in it.

Spring frost protection

Spring frosts are the most big problem, as they are able to destroy the crop for another initial stage. Not only small gardens suffer from them, but also huge plantings, from which products are supplied to many stores. Next, we will figure out whether it is possible to do this.

This frost protection technology came to us from the USA. There farmers buy special installations that produce fog. It not only reduces visibility, but significantly increases the air temperature, which saves trees from a sharp drop in temperature. Of course, such installations are not cheap, but if you grow especially valuable crops that will give a lot of expensive products, then it makes sense to purchase such an installation in order to solve problems with unexpected frosts for ten years.
Garden fumigation. It should be said right away that this method saves only from small frosts. If the temperature drops below -5 °C, then smoking will not help your plants in the garden.

This is done as follows: at a distance of 4 meters from each shrub or tree, a small “hut” is built, which consists of thick logs and thin twigs for ignition, wet foliage or straw is applied over the “hut”. After you set fire to such a "structure", it will begin to smoke heavily, causing the garden to fill with smoke. Smoke raises the temperature of the air, so the trees do not suffer from frost.

Video: fumigation from frost using grapes as an example

Of course, the site will have to be fumigated for almost 12 hours, since frosts most often occur at night and last until morning or noon. At the same time, fumigation will not bring pleasure to your neighbors, and especially shy ones can call the fire department. For this reason, fires should be used with caution, especially after the final melting of the snow.

Important! Smoke fires can be replaced with smoke bombs, which can also slightly increase the air temperature.

Bonfires. An open source of fire can raise the temperature, however, as you understand, the same source can cause a lot of problems, because the trees themselves can suffer from fires if flames get to them. At high temperatures branches and foliage dry out quickly, after which they start to burn - as a result, you can simply burn your entire garden.
It makes sense to kindle fires only if you have collected a lot of plant debris that has nowhere to go. Then you can dispose of the garbage, and at the same time warm the air a little. At the same time, one should not assume that such a remedy can save from severe frosts, especially in the presence of wind.

Pruning fruit trees and shrubs

Pruning is carried out only before the start of sap flow, that is, until the buds swell. If pruning is carried out later, the tree will suffer greatly, and tree sap will begin to stand out at the cut points. It would seem that everything is clear, there are no problems, however, sap flow begins at different times even in the same region, so you need to know exactly when to prune so as not to cut the plants when the first unformed leaves begin to appear on them.

It is also worth noting that sap flow in some cultures may begin earlier, while in others - later, which causes serious difficulties in the case of working with a large garden.

What is pruning for?

  1. To form the crown of a young plant.
  2. To remove old shoots that do not give a good harvest.
  3. To remove diseased branches that were not cut at the first inspection.


As for the differences in pruning young and old trees.

Young trees need crown formation, as they need to be given the desired look every year in order to eventually get an adult tree with a beautiful and easy-to-collect crown.

Mature and old trees need, as their crown has already formed. Annually, old 2-3-year-old shoots are removed, which do not bear fruit well and cause thickening of the crown. As a result, the plant accelerates growth and the formation of new shoots, on which more buds are tied, and as a result, more fruits are formed.

Separately, it should be said that the most productive are those branches that move to the sides. Vertical shoots do not have good yields, and hanging shoots do not really bear fruit at all. It all has to do with the fact that horizontal branches get more sunlight, therefore, more fruits ripen on them, which have a better taste.

tree pruning

Did you know? The longest life expectancy can boast familiar to us garden trees. Homemade can live up to 120 years, and many varieties will grow for 2-3 centuries. At the same time, the life expectancy of the same is only 20 years.

We start by removing all old shoots in early spring. They will die anyway, so we don't need them. Removal should be carried out before the appearance of young branches. During the entire growing season, you need to shorten the upper part of the shoots, since the berries are formed on side branches, and the growth of the main branches upwards reduces the yield. Pinching is carried out after the shoots have reached a length of 90 cm.
Pruning is also carried out if the shoots lie on the ground under the weight of leaves and berries. In this case, the main shoot should be shortened, otherwise the product will begin to rot after contact with the soil.

Top dressing of horticultural crops

We turn to an important topic, which concerns the feeding of plants in the garden. We will talk about all crops, so we will consider those fertilizers that both and shrubs need. various kinds and varieties.

Our grandmothers, growing strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, were not particularly worried about mulching. But today this agricultural practice has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Some might say it's troublesome. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article, we invite you to get acquainted with the nine the best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very versatile. Despite the fact that “kids” have always been considered more fashionable, the assortment of succulents with which you can decorate modern interior, it is worth taking a closer look. After all, colors, sizes, patterns, degree of pricklyness, influence on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article, we will talk about the five most fashionable succulents that surprisingly transform modern interiors.

Mint was used by the Egyptians as far back as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils with high volatility. Today, mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article, we will consider the most interesting varieties of mint, and also talk about the features of growing this plant in open ground.

People began to grow crocuses 500 years before the advent of our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the heralds of spring next year. Crocuses - one of the earliest primroses, whose flowering begins as soon as the snow melts. However, the timing of flowering may vary depending on the species and varieties. This article focuses on the earliest varieties of crocuses that bloom in late March and early April.

Shchi from early young cabbage in beef broth is hearty, fragrant and easy to prepare. In this recipe, you will learn how to cook delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup with this broth. early cabbage it cooks quickly, so it is placed in the pan at the same time as the rest of the vegetables, unlike autumn cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Real cabbage soup is tastier than freshly cooked.

Looking at the variety of varieties of tomatoes, it is difficult not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners he is annoying sometimes! However, it is not so difficult to understand the basics of selecting varieties “for yourself”. The main thing is to understand the peculiarities of culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest tomato groups to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been appreciated by those gardeners who do not have much time and energy to care for the beds.

Once very popular under the name of room nettle, and then forgotten by everyone, coleuses today are one of the brightest garden and indoor plants. They are not in vain considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are looking primarily for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, coleus require constant supervision. But if you take care of them, bushes of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon backbone baked in Provence herbs is a “supplier” of delicious pieces of fish pulp for a light salad with fresh wild garlic leaves. The mushrooms are lightly fried olive oil and then watered apple cider vinegar. Such mushrooms are tastier than ordinary pickled ones, and they are better suited for baked fish. Ramson and fresh dill coexist perfectly in one salad, emphasizing the flavor of each other. Garlic sharpness of wild garlic will saturate both salmon flesh and mushroom pieces.

A coniferous tree or shrub on the site is always great, and many conifers are even better. Emerald needles of various shades decorate the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils, secreted by plants, not only flavor, but also make the air cleaner. Generally, most zoned adults coniferous plants, are considered very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require competent care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the shade flowering trees have long been an integral attribute of the meeting of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. Financial and academic year here begins on April 1, when the magnificent sakura blossoms. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese pass under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain types can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

It is very interesting for me to analyze how people's tastes and preferences for certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and traded lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century BC. e. about 6 varieties of quince were known and even then the methods of its reproduction and cultivation were described.

Make your family happy and make themed Easter egg-shaped cottage cheese cookies! Your children will be happy to take part in the process - they will sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration how the pieces of dough turn into real Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such original cookies for Easter, read in our step by step recipe!

There are not so many decorative and deciduous favorites among tuberous crops. And the caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of the interiors. Not everyone can decide to start a Caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all - to care. But still, the rumors about the unusual capriciousness of the Caladium never justify. Attention and care allow you to avoid any difficulties when growing caladiums. And a plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply elementary dish for you today. This gravy is one hundred percent universal, as it will suit every side dish: vegetables, pasta, and anything. Gravy with chicken and mushrooms will save you in moments when there is no time or you don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Grab your favorite side dish (you can make this ahead of time to keep it hot), add gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.

Among the many different varieties of these most popular vegetables, we will talk about three that are distinguished by excellent taste and relatively unpretentious conditions cultivation. Characteristics of eggplant varieties "Diamond", "Black Handsome" and "Valentina". All eggplants have a medium density pulp. In "Almaz" it is greenish, and in the other two it is yellowish-white. They are united good germination and excellent yield, but different time. Everyone's skin color and shape is different.

Fruit garden in spring

Garden care in the spring is not only about caring for fruit trees and other plants on the site. It is also necessary to pay attention to the lawn, soil, buildings and structures.

Spring inspection of the garden: what to look for

Even if there is still snow outside the window, already in the first weeks of March it is worth starting to take care of the garden and prepare for the new season. Many works need to be done before the start of active sap flow and the awakening of the kidneys.

Inspection of the orchard

Every gardener should know where pests and plant diseases winter. Many of them descend from the trees in autumn and easily endure the cold under fallen leaves. These include weevils, bark beetles and some types of caterpillars. Raspberry beetles and moths go to hibernate in the soil to a depth of 6-8 cm. Therefore, it is advisable to dig up the ground when it has already thawed enough, but not to wait for warming.

Last year's leaves remaining on the trees indicate the presence of spider mites in the garden. Codling moth and aphids hibernate on the surface of the bark and in its cracks; their eggs can be seen on the trunk and branches. Inspect the garden for ants, these insects can cause a lot of inconvenience and destroy the crop.

In last year's fallen leaves, pathogens of diseases such as scab, black rot, spotting and many others also tolerate cold well. On the bark of trees and lawn grass, fungus and lichens can often be seen.

Problems on the site after winter

With the advent of spring, problems can arise not only with plants, but also with the site itself. Most often they are associated with the rapid melting of snow and stagnant water.

  • spring flood: flooded area and soil washout;
  • poor soil drainage: water has nowhere to go;
  • waterlogging of the soil due to uplift ground water;
  • spring frosts.

These are just the main and most common problems that can be faced with the arrival of spring. Each of them requires surgical intervention. Garden care in March and April is the most crucial period, which determines what the next season will be like.

Typical spring problems in the garden and how to fix them

After inspecting the trees, you must immediately begin to care for them. Prepare the tools and tools for processing in advance.

Bark cracks and frost holes after winter, frozen branches

Carry out sanitary and restorative pruning: remove dead, frozen and affected branches during the winter, treat cracks in the bark. When the snow on the site begins to melt, you need to remove the ice crust in the stem circle.

Sunburns of the bark

It is necessary to whitewash tree trunks and thick branches to protect them from bright spring sun. Do not delay with the removal winter shelter from ornamental crops, as they can rot and die.

Hollow in a tree

If a hollow is found, the cavity should be cleaned, disinfected and sealed with cement mortar to prevent fracture.

Large amount of snow

When the snow begins to melt quickly, there is a possibility of floods. In such cases, it is recommended to take measures to retain melt water: trample snow around the perimeter of the site, creating artificial barriers to streams (while there is still snow, do not forget to prepare melt water for watering seedlings).

swampy terrain

If your garden has water every spring, or the soil is washed out due to uneven terrain, you should organize the drainage of the site: clean and repair drainage ditches and drainage well, dig out new ones if necessary.

spring frosts

Equipment should be prepared to create artificial fog, or special smoke bombs should be used to protect a flowering garden from spring return frosts. You can also use the most cheap way- burn weeds and spruce forest, which was used to shelter perennials for the winter.

These are just the basic measures to protect the garden in the spring, which will help make it easier to care for it in the future.

Disease and pest control, prevention measures

Plants wake up quite quickly after winter, which is why it is necessary to have time to protect them from insects and diseases. Before bud break and the first leaves appear, many pests and pathogens are still sleeping. Some of them hibernate in the soil, others - right on the plants.

plant protection

It is worth remembering that the leaves remaining on the branches are a breeding ground for diseases, such branches must be cut and burned. The bark of trees is carefully cleaned of fungi and lichens, and treated lime mortar or special paste. It will also help to burn out the eggs of insects located on and under the bark.

Further care behind the garden in the spring is to spray the plants with insecticides. These drugs are able to fight diseases such as: black cancer, scab, moniliosis, and pests: codling moth, caterpillar, spider mite, soil insects. It is necessary to carry out such spraying before flowering, so as not to damage the buds.

Already blooming garden processed only to increase the protective functions of plants. There are preparations with which they treat the soil with insects sleeping in it. All further sprayings are preventive, since aggressive preparations can harm the color, leaves and fruits.

Ants in the garden

Ants in the garden can destroy all berry crops, especially raspberries and strawberries. You can fight them folk remedies, so as not to disturb the ecological balance, or more aggressive, but fast-acting chemical solutions.

Lawn protection from diseases

Lawn grass exposed to diseases as often as trees and shrubs. With the advent of spring, you may encounter lawn rotting and grass being replaced by various weeds and moss. Such problems are solvable, but in the future it is necessary to apply preventive measures so that the diseases do not return, and the green lawn always has a healthy and well-groomed appearance.

Having found mold and rotted spots on the lawn, you must carefully cut them out. It is advisable to burn the turf so that the disease does not spread to cultivated plants. After that, the earth is treated with a 3% solution of iodine and left for a day. Before proceeding, carefully inspect the sod section for mold or mildew. If it remains or has grown, it is necessary to cut a larger piece of lawn cover.

The resulting pit should be sprinkled with a mixture of sand and black soil, and then sow fresh grass. The soil may settle a little and it will need to be added again in a couple of days, but not tamped, which is why the seeds are left almost on the surface, deepening them by only 0.5 cm.

Fertilizing horticultural crops in spring

After winter, the plants in the garden are exhausted and need good nutrition. It is recommended to monitor the condition of the soil and select fertilizers individually for each crop and tree, based on its age, variety and condition.

soil top dressing

Organic fertilizers such as manure, compost, bird droppings or green manure infusion is introduced into the near-stem circle of trees and dug up along with the ground. Mineral additives (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements) are used in the same way.

foliar top dressing

Foliar top dressing of the garden is carried out by spraying the crowns of trees with nutrients. Apples, pears and stone fruits are treated with a solution of urea of ​​different dosages.

Pruning fruit crops and shrubs

Garden maintenance is correct pruning trees in spring. Each culture has its own characteristics of development, so the approach should be individual. First of all, it is carried out restorative pruning garden in spring.

  • The apple tree is the main fruit crop in any country house, so every gardener should be able to take care of both young and adult trees.
  • The fast growing plum also needs spring pruning, it is necessary to restore trees and thin out thick branches. The health of the trees and their fruiting depend on the correctness of the procedure.
  • Apricot needs special care and individual formation of branches, since access to a large amount of light is necessary for the ripening of fruits.

Outcome

Garden care in the spring includes not only pruning, fertilizing and controlling pathogens, but also measures to protect the soil from leaching and waterlogging, while retaining moisture for plant development. It is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection and cleaning of the site, process the plants and prune. All efforts will eventually be rewarded with a bountiful and healthy harvest.

Gardeners often have a situation where plant seedlings have already been purchased, but for one reason or another it is impossible to plant them. For example, early frosts hit in the fall and planting of the plant has to be postponed until spring. Fortunately, there are ways to save seedlings until planting. This material is devoted to the features of storage of seedlings.

Where to store seedlings before planting

The method of storage of seedlings is determined by various factors: the necessary period of storage of planting material before planting, climatic conditions, the presence suitable premises and so on. Let's consider these methods in more detail.

Did you know? One of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the famous Hanging Gardens of Babylon should actually be called gardens.« Amitis» named after the Median princess Amitis, for whom the Babylonian king Nebuchadnezzar II ordered them to be built. Semiramis lived about two hundred years before the construction of these gardens.

In the dig

Using a prikop allows you to save seedlings throughout the winter period until planting. The pit itself is a trench. It must be dug in a fairly dry place. For this, for example, potato or tomato beds are suitable. The trench must be oriented in a west-east direction.

The depth of the trench is half a meter. The length depends on the number of plants to be dug in - in the trench they should be located quite freely. The northern wall of the trench is made vertical, at a right angle. The southern one should be inclined at an angle of approximately 45 °.

All excavated earth is discarded beyond the northern edge of the trench. Sand and peat are mixed into the earth taken out of the trench. If necessary, seedlings are prepared for wintering: uncircumcised leaves and damaged roots are removed.

After that, the plants can be laid in a trench. They are laid with trunks on the south, gentle side, so the roots will be oriented to the north, and the tops to the south. The trench with the seedlings placed in it is sprinkled, but not completely, with about a 20-centimeter layer of previously dug and prepared soil.

In this form, the prikop is left until the onset of stable frosts, i.e. every night the air temperature should drop below zero. If frosts have set in, the remaining soil is poured into the trench, and in the process of adding soil, the layers of the earth must be poured with water so that the soil is compacted. It is necessary to form a mound on top of the trench, which will help to avoid the accumulation of melt water in it in the spring.

Important! With this method of wintering, seedlings cannot be overlaid with spruce branches, straw, sawdust. The pit itself does not need to be wrapped with film or covering materials, as this can lead to premature awakening of plants. It is advisable to periodically throw snow on the pit.

Under a thick layer of snow

If a stable and abundant snow cover forms in winter, then you can simply keep the seedlings in the snow. First, before precipitation, they are stored in an unheated room, for which they are pre-wrapped with a moistened cloth (preferably burlap) and film.

When sufficient snow falls (at least 15 cm cover is recommended), the plants can be laid down. The roots of the seedling are lowered into a burlap bag filled with a mixture of sawdust and peat, and this bag is tied around the lower part of the trunk.
The branches are carefully pulled together. The whole plant is wrapped with polyethylene and the shell is fixed with adhesive tape. You need to bury the plant in a shaded place in the garden, where straight lines do not fall. Sun rays and there is no danger of snow weathering.

In a cold place

It is quite possible to store seedlings in the refrigerator, unless, of course, the dimensions of the equipment allow and family members will not mind such use. To do this, the plant is wrapped with 2-3 layers of wet gauze, then simply placed in a plastic bag.

It is not necessary to tie this bag, otherwise the clogged plant may become moldy. Optimum temperature storage is 0°С…+2°С. This method is suitable only for relatively short-term storage, usually no more than three weeks.

Can be used instead of a refrigerator glazed balcony or loggia. Preparing for storage is exactly the same as when using a refrigerator. When seedlings are purchased with the root system packed in the soil substrate, then they need to be pierced for storage. protective film in several places.
If the clod of earth is dry, it should be slightly moistened, but not watered abundantly. In this form, the plant can be stored for two to three weeks. In the case of storage in the cellar, the seedlings are lowered into plastic bags and sprinkle them with wet sawdust.

Leave it in an upright position. Packages should not be tightly tied to prevent damage to the plant. In addition to bags, boxes can also be used for storage in the cellar. Seedlings are placed there in an upright position and covered with wet sand or wet sawdust. For the entire period of storage, the substrate is kept moist.

The optimum temperature for storage in the cellar is -2°С…+2°С. Hypothermia or overheating is best avoided, so it is advisable to control the temperature with a thermometer. If the cellar is very dry, you can increase the humidity of the air by placing an open container of water in it. However, high humidity, over 60%, is dangerous for seedlings and can kill them.
Boxes are used to store planting material in unheated utility rooms, such as a barn or garage. They are filled with sawdust or hay and seedlings are placed there in a vertical position, wrapped in a film.

They should not come into contact with the walls of the box, and the minimum distance to the walls should be at least 10 cm. From above and below they are covered with several layers of burlap or just old things. The complete safety of all planting material with this method of storage is not guaranteed.

Sometimes signs of development are already visible on purchased seedlings, but planting them in open ground it is too early. In this case, the plants can be saved by transplanting them into a container. Before planting, the roots of the seedling are lowered into clean water for 12 hours, after which the plant is planted in a container with a capacity of 2-3 liters.

The container with the plant is placed in some cool room, protected from direct sunlight - it can be, for example, a glazed balcony or a glazed veranda.
Watering and fertilizing the plant should be minimal so as not to provoke its premature rapid growth. Landing in the ground is usually carried out in May. It should be borne in mind that with this method of planting, the plant is always weakened and will require more careful care in the near future.

Did you know? Most of the modern stone fruit, nut and pome horticultural crops began to be cultivated by people about three thousand years ago. But berry crops began to be planted much later. Thus, garden currants and gooseberries are known from medieval sources, there are no earlier references to them.

Storage Features

Storage of various garden plants(be it fruit trees, berry bushes or vine) has its own characteristics. Let's try to figure them out.

coniferous plants

These plants cannot be stored in the cellar. But if they are sold in a container (and most often it happens), they can be dug in the garden without taking them out of the container, in a place protected from wind and sun. In this case, it is necessary to sprinkle the soil over the roots with peat for better warming.

The upper part of the seedling must be carefully covered with covering material. There is another good option for storing conifers. For this, it is used unheated garage or barn. The technology for preparing for such storage is described above. The only caveat is that you do not need to wrap the crown of the plant.

fruit trees

The best place to save fruit trees- cellar. The method is described in detail above, but there are no particular features in the storage of these particular plants.


Before laying in the cellar, leaves should be removed if they are left on the seedlings due to an oversight. Also widely used are such methods of storing fruit trees as digging and placing in the snow.

Kustarnikov

Features of the placement of shrubs completely coincide with the methods of storing seedlings of fruit trees. Those. the best places are the cellar, pit and snow.

Grape

The best ways to store grapes are prikop and cellar. If a prikop is used, then the grape cuttings connected in bunches are placed in a trench (tightly). Before laying, it is recommended to dip the roots in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This method is often practiced if there are a lot of cuttings.

Before the onset of spring, the trunks of fruit trees are rubbed with lime milk. In addition to everything White color reflects the sun's rays, which avoids overheating during intense sunlight and a sharp drop in temperature at night, especially below zero.

In the spring, the moisture-proof bowl around the tree is covered with dry soil, compost, peat or plant residues, this prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture.

During the growing season, especially during dry periods, fruit trees are carefully and plentifully watered. Watering often, but little by little, is useless. Moisture does not reach the roots, lingering in surface layer earth, which then forms a crust. To retain moisture around the tree, even before it begins to bloom, it is useful to lay peat, straw manure or grass in a layer of 5-10 cm.

If a tree does not bloom in the spring, it must be dug out of the ground, shortened the roots and for several days (best in the cellar) lower the roots into the water or cover them with moist earth. Only after it turns green can it be planted again in the ground.

During the growing season, especially after rain (before the formation of a dried earth crust), the soil around the tree must be finely loosened several times. It is necessary to loosen in May-July, when shoots and fruits are mainly formed. In August and September, the soil is not disturbed, which ensures better ripening and coloring of the fruit.

In autumn, the earth is dug up around the tree to a depth of no more than 10 cm, and between rows - up to 15 cm. Around the tree, digging is carried out only with a spade-fork, which does not damage the roots so much. Even better than loosening, a shallow trench. In summer, loosening the ground is generally not recommended. After the soil dries up in spring, it is cultivated reverse side rake (also in order to reduce moisture loss from evaporation).

To enrich the soil with humus, various plants can be grown under fruit trees. For this purpose, field peas, fodder vetch, white mustard, buckwheat, phacelia, white clover, many-flowered chaff, annual ryegrass, etc., and on sandy soils - lupine.

Sowing material is applied from early July to early August in moist soil. Plants are planted only in spring. In winter this planting material protects the soil from severe freezing and helps to better hold the snow. It is not recommended to grow green manure plants in areas with rainfall below 500 mm, as well as in young fruit plantations.

Vegetables can be grown between newly planted trees, and between dwarf plantings in the case when they have not reached 3 years, and among taller seedlings - up to 8 years. The most suitable vegetables for this purpose are bush beans, peas, lettuce, early cauliflower, kohlrabi, cucumbers, celery, tomatoes, carrots and early potatoes. However, it is impossible to plant vegetables directly under fruit trees.

Fertilizer

The basis of fertilizing fruit trees is organic fertilizers. As a rule, well-packed or composted manure is used; in autumn it is introduced into the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm or over the entire area of ​​cultivation under the trees, sometimes along the diameter of the crowns under each tree. Lighter soils are fertilized annually or every other year, heavy soils are fertilized every 3-4 years. Large doses of fertilizers are applied under weakly growing trees. Instead of manure applied in autumn, often in spring, compost can be used. Dry bird droppings are also used (100-200 g per 1 m 2).

At the same time with organic fertilizers mineral and chemical fertilizers should also be applied to the soil. If green manure plants are also grown under the trees, the dose of manure or compost can be reduced by half.

One tree at the age of 2-3 years requires 12-15 kg of fertilizer; every year the dose of fertilizers increases, i.e. for an eight-year-old tree, it requires 40-50 kg, and older trees with a crown diameter of 6 m consume 120-160 kg of fertilizer.

Mineral fertilizers are used taking into account the reaction of the soil, the age and fruitfulness of the tree. In autumn, when plowing the soil, phosphate and potash fertilizers are usually applied so that these substances are already absorbed during the growing season. With the onset of spring, nitrogenous fertilizers are applied. You can also use combined fertilizers in autumn and spring, which gives a tangible effect. During the growing season, nitrogenous fertilizers are applied additionally, and they are applied shallowly into the soil.

In the year when the soil is fertilized with a full volume of compost or manure, the dose mineral fertilizers is reduced by half. If the trees grow too vigorously, and the shoots do not mature well, the amount of nitrogen fertilizers applied is reduced, and more phosphorus and sulfur fertilizers are added. If previous crops are grown under the trees, the amount of fertilizer applied should be increased according to their needs.

For top dressing of weakly growing trees, it is allowed to use during the growing season and liquid fertilizers. Useful, for example, fermented bird or rabbit droppings, diluted in 10 parts of water. You can also use a solution of complete fertilizers that dissolve well in water. These liquid fertilizers are poured into grooves 10-15 cm deep around the circumference of the crown. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, the grooves are leveled.

Lime is applied to the soil in accordance with its reaction. It is especially necessary for stone fruits; berry crops are less demanding in this respect. It should not be overlooked that calcium fertilizers and manure, as well as superphosphate and chemical nitrogenous fertilizers, should not be introduced at the same time.

In case of an acute lack of nutrients, when their intake from the soil is somehow limited (waterlogged soil, damaged roots), spraying the leaves with a nutrient solution can be recommended. 400 g of ammonium nitrate with limestone or 500-600 g of urea, 500-600 g of potassium bisulfate and an extract of 3-4 kg of superphosphate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The most favorable for such spraying is the period after flowering. With a clear lack of nutrients, spraying is repeated one or two more times in 10-14 days. As necessary, such spraying is combined with spraying against tree diseases and pests.

Protection against diseases and pests

The best protection is prevention. If fruit plants create good conditions and accordingly take care of them, they will not cause much trouble to the gardener.

And if you also provide for everything in order to attract birds as your helpers, then worries will be completely reduced. To do this, it is enough to install bird feeders in the garden for the winter, replenish the feeders with food, and put titmouses and birdhouses for some useful birds so that the birds take the chicks directly to the site. Birds will repay their owners with kindness - they will take care of useful work: pest control.

If, nevertheless, any controversial issues arise, you should try to find out the reason and, after consulting with a specialist, make appropriate adjustments to care for the garden and in the fight against pests. Chemicals used only as a last resort.