Mixer      03/05/2020

Do-it-yourself electric drill for the ground. Electric drill for excavation work: characteristics, instructions, reviews. Knives and fastening method

An electric drill for excavation work is successfully used in cases where it is necessary, for example, to drill a hole for piles, make a trench or recess for installing fence posts, drill a hole for planting a tree or shrub, etc.

Brief description of the device and equipment advantages

By design, an electric drill for excavation work is an electric motor that has two handles, as well as a clamping mechanism used for clamping. This tool is most often made in the form of an auger. It is worth noting that the nozzles are removable and can be of different diameters, which allows you to adjust the size of the hole that will be drilled. It is also worth noting that there is a conditional division of drills into types, depending on their purpose. There are gardening, earthing and piling tools.

An electric drill for excavation work is a rarity among people who have suburban areas, despite the fact that it has some advantages. If you compare it with manual type, then, of course, the plus is that the main rotational force occurs due to the electric motor, and not human forces.

If you compare the device with a gasoline unit, the advantages include silent operation, environmental friendliness and readiness for work (you don’t have to start it like a gasoline unit).

Application of equipment

As mentioned earlier, one of the greatest benefits In terms of using the drill, it is easy to cope with the arrangement of recesses for piles. Of course, you can do this with a manual type of unit, but an electric drill for excavation work will cope with this task much faster. In addition, the presence of small stones or roots inside the soil will greatly complicate digging a hole if it is done manually; this is not a hindrance for an electric motor.

Another convenience of using the equipment is that it is more compact than a conventional drill, and therefore its operation in places with limited space is most acceptable. Small dimensions and high functionality of the unit are its main positive traits. It is also worth adding that, compared to gasoline models, the weight of an electric drill is less, which makes it easier to work with.

Models and disadvantage

Large models of motorized earth drills are also used for digging wells, for example. Types with a smaller diameter nozzle are used for home use(planting plants, installing poles, etc.). However, it is worth noting that the line of models also includes multifunctional types that have removable attachments. This makes it possible to use them depending on the needs, as well as the quality and type of soil with which you will have to work.

Naturally, the main disadvantage of the drill is that its operation in places where there is no electricity is impossible. Yes, when purchasing a device, there is usually a battery included, but charging only lasts for a short period of time.

Operating principle of the unit

An electric drill is an electric motor and a shaft having a type. When using such equipment, the hole in the ground will have smooth edges and a clear auger diameter. The direct drilling process is carried out due to the fact that the auger has a very sharp tip, as well as pointed helical blades. When the equipment starts, the electric motor begins to rotate, transmitting its force to the shaft to which the auger is attached. This is how drilling occurs.

Favorable cost of the device

The price of an electric drill for excavation work is also one of its advantages. The approximate cost of the device is 1,000 rubles. It is important to note here that for this amount you purchase the device itself and the basic attachment included in the kit. And then you can purchase separately augers of different diameters, if necessary. In this way, you can greatly increase the functionality of the equipment at a minimal cost. Making the right choice will also help you save money.

If you plan to use the device in the garden, that is, for garden needs, then a power of 1.5 kW will be enough. If you plan to drill holes for construction needs (pile foundation), then you will need a device with a power of 2 kW or more. If there is such a need, then electric units can also be used for drilling ice.

Reviews of the electric drill for excavation work are mostly positive. Among the main qualities that buyers highlight are ease of use, light weight, quality of the device and its relatively low cost.

There are also negative reviews. However, most often they are left by people who did not understand the rules of its operation and purchased, for example, a less powerful model than was required for working with a certain type of soil. Naturally, the result was bad.

From this we can conclude that it is imperative to examine the soil with which you will have to work, decide for what type of work the tool is being purchased, and only then buy it. It is also recommended to purchase products only from trusted companies. It’s better to pay a little more, but buy a better quality item, than to pay less and buy the equipment again in a year.

Motor drills from Hitachi

Hitachi electric drills for excavation work are quite high-quality and reliable products. The manufacturer of this equipment is Japan. However, it is worth noting that the range of products is not very large. Of the electric models, only garden types are available. This means that the manufacturer does not produce electric models with high power. Only gasoline models from this brand have high power ratings. Today, three main qualities can be distinguished, thanks to which Hitachi products have become quite popular.

  1. The assembly quality of the units is very high.
  2. Coefficient useful action these devices are also high.
  3. The service life of the devices is quite long.

Product selection and operation

When buying an earth drill, it is best to always go to a specialized store where they can help you with your choice. However, there are a few guidelines that you should always follow. Three parameters should always be taken into account Special attention- power, screw head size and engine size (if it is a gasoline model).

Quite often when working with this tool, it happens that the drill buries itself in the ground. For this reason, almost all new models are equipped with a safety system that turns off the engine if this happens. This system protects equipment from damage. To avoid such a shutdown, it is necessary to periodically stop work and clean the auger of dirt.

It is also designed to protect the unit from accidental starting or to protect a person in case of loss of control of the product.

As a fisherman, you have learned what it is like to carry a Russian ice auger to a fishing spot when it is -20 °C outside. As an owner, you have experienced the feelings of a man who dug 20 holes with a shovel while building a fence.

Domestic ice screws no longer attract you with their affordability and unproductiveness. You come to a store selling small mechanization equipment in order to buy imported products.

The numbers on the price tag are significant, but the amount of work on your site does not correspond to them. Buy an expensive tool for seasonal work- an irrational decision. And you once bought a chainsaw, but it turned out to be not so necessary.

This chainsaw can be turned into a presentable looking motor drill. Thanks to your ingenuity, you'll get two tools and save a lot of money.

Characteristics of motorized drills

If you're wondering whether a homemade tool is worth the time and effort, then you don't know how much small excavation work can be done in literally an hour.

You can drill holes for poles, lanterns, for planting trees, build foundations, and design the site in accordance with your aesthetic taste and needs, without resorting to renting special equipment or manual digging.

If an earth drill can handle some hard types of soil, it can also handle ice more than a meter thick. On winter fishing you will be fishing, and not drilling ice holes.

Criteria for a good self-made motor drill:

  • Power. For household needs, at least 3 horsepower is enough. The engine power of some modifications reaches 6 liters. pp., but it all depends on the operating conditions.

    You can operate a compact and lightweight drill yourself; a more powerful one will require the presence of another operator.

  • Engine capacity plays the same role as power. The more cubic centimeters of fuel mixture the engine holds, the wider the capabilities of the power tool.

    The main guideline when choosing volume is the nature of the soil. Alumina, sand, frozen soil require different engine characteristics.

  • Functionality, drilling ability. Which auger will the engine “pull”? What will be the diameter of the screw in millimeters? Is it easy to pick up an auger in a store, or are there difficulties with delivery?

    Does the auger package include an extension cord, is it provided for specific model? By answering these questions, the user will be able to determine which tool he needs.

If you are interested in making a high-quality motor drill yourself, you need to add that the fruit of your efforts will not depend on your talent. The process will require knowledge of turning and awareness of the principles of operation of simple mechanisms.

There is nothing difficult about making a motor drill with your own hands. If you know about gearboxes, you can bore a bushing of the required diameter and build a high-quality mount.

You can't do without some abilities here. Enlist the help of a familiar locksmith if you do not have practical skills in working with parts.

Chainsaw motor drill

When faced with a similar question for the first time, you may be surprised that a chainsaw is used not only for sawing wood. This is just one area of ​​application.

A chainsaw can make an elegant gas cutter, a winch, a drill, a boat motor, a debarker, a device for cutting logs into boards, etc.

Functionality guaranteed design features chainsaws:

  • unpretentious and reliable engine;
  • sealed supply of the fuel mixture, leakage of which is only possible if the chainsaw is turned over;
  • The main thing is a power take-off system that is understandable to everyone. The output shaft of the chainsaw allows you to attach any attachment.

Therefore, it is advisable to use a chainsaw as the basis for a new device. There is no need to sacrifice it for the sake of a motor drill: you disconnect the drill bit, install the saw and start sawing the logs.

The chainsaw engine is designed for long-term and intensive use, so you don’t have to worry about breakdowns or poor performance of the task.

Theoretically, it is possible to make a similar power tool from a trimmer, lawn mower or grinder.

In practice, this is quite difficult due to the unusual design of the gearbox. Problems may arise due to insufficient power take-off or incorrect rotation of the drill auger.

Progress

So, how to make a motor drill with your own hands from a chainsaw?

Prepare your chainsaw. In most cases, the Soviet Shtil saw is used.

The auger should rotate at low speed. We need to find a way to reduce the speed so that the output is as much as necessary for safe work with a motor drill. Therefore, in order to make a motor drill with your own hands, you will need a gearbox.

V-belt and worm gearboxes perform the same role, despite their design differences. But in this case, worm gear is preferable.

Note: The efficiency of a worm gear is lower than that of a V-belt. The worm gear heats up faster, but it can be installed directly on the shaft of the base mechanism. None couplings or mechanical gears will not be needed.

The large gear of the V-belt gearbox must drive the auger!

You have figured out the gearbox. But where can I get it? It's better to buy. On the Internet you can find stories about daredevils who, armed with a grinder, a screwdriver and a hammer, disassemble old tools and remove gearboxes from them. Also an option, but unreliable and barbaric.

The gearbox and chainsaw motor need to be fastened together. At this point, you may need the help of a locksmith. Usually a bushing of the required diameter is bored - it serves as a connecting link.

Additional fasteners are needed. You can't buy it anywhere. This handmade, the mount for each device is selected individually.

Left pick up the drill and knives for it. The drill and auger must coincide in the direction of rotation if the device is prefabricated. The most popular are “Tonnar”, “Mora”, “Hitachi”. The cost usually does not exceed 5000 rubles.

It is advisable to choose “native” knives that are not made in China, especially if you will use a motor drill for drilling holes during winter fishing.

Chinese ones burst, fall off, crack and cannot always be repaired by welding.

Using a homemade power tool, you can drill a hole with a maximum diameter of 150 mm. What, how and with what to drill, practice will best tell you. Everyone chooses the best operating option for themselves.

Motor drill from a drill

It is much easier to build a similar device from a drill. High power is a mandatory characteristic of a drill. It is better to use a hammer drill.

The process will be less labor-intensive, because there is no need to look for a gearbox - it is included in the design of the hammer drill. In addition, drills are those devices that are assembled with a drill without additional parts.

The safety clutch is installed between the output shaft and the shaft of the driven drill. It prevents additional load from being placed on the gearbox and auger, so it doesn't get stuck.

Rotary hammers are always equipped with reverse, unlike drills.

Making a motor drill with your own hands from a drill is a little more difficult:

  1. Need to choose a drill with a power of at least 2 kW having a receiver. The brand and year of manufacture do not matter.
  2. Buy a worm gearbox (used) with gear ratio 1:25 . You can purchase a coaxial one, but using it can be inconvenient.
  3. A screw - either buy it or weld it yourself.
  4. Fasten all elements into a technologically complete structure. You may have to ask for help at this stage, although if you have the tools, materials and logic, you can design the fastener yourself.

    The main thing is that it is durable, neat and does not interfere with the normal operation of the motor drill.

The advantage of a chainsaw over a drill is its autonomy. The drill is powered by the mains, which narrows its scope of application, and a “chainsaw” motor drill can be used in winter fishing conditions.

Drill advantage: fuel mixture There is no oil in it either. The drill can operate at sub-zero temperature, and the chainsaw freezes. You have to spend time warming it up.

Driller's Reminder

Creative inventors can mount a motorized or electric drill on a trolley. If the tool is often used on the farm, this will be convenient.

Before self-production for power tools, calculate the possible costs (gearbox, drill, auger, knives).

Compare with the cost of a new auger. If the difference in favor of a homemade product is significant, it makes sense to make efforts to make it.

It is not for nothing that the gearbox is considered the most important element of a motor drill. The number of output revolutions must meet the requirements for operating comfort.

A high RPM will keep the driller on his toes and the auger will continue to rotate even after the unit is turned off. Is it dangerous.

On the other hand, low speeds lead to a longer time period required to complete specific task. Your arms and back will get tired.

A correctly selected gearbox is the key to your “friendship” with the motor drill.

Do you know how to choose a two-row one according to three criteria?

You can learn interesting things from specifications tower crane KB-403.

An article has been prepared for you at the following address to help you make your choice. hand cultivator for the dacha.

Do not put pressure on the tool while drilling. It can be difficult to control, especially when the auger hits a rock. Be prepared for this and keep your distance.

Failure to comply with safety regulations has the same consequences, regardless of whether it is factory or homemade instrument you are working.

Before work, stretch your hands - you will be more resistant to the vagaries of a motor drill.

If you have old chainsaws, hand drills, drills, or grinders lying around in your attic, don’t rush to get rid of them.

These tools will help you make a new expensive device that will open up wide possibilities for you.

The information obtained by watching the video can be applied in practice - when creating a motor drill with your own hands:

When building a house and arranging a site, it is often necessary to do round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing poles, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same pits, but larger diameter and depths required when installing. These holes are made with a motorized or hand drill. There are plenty of them in stores, but many people prefer homemade ones: they are often more productive and reliable than factory-made products. In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are many of them.

Designs and Applications

Garden earth drills that are easier to make. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of homemade drills - they can be “sharpened” to specific conditions and it’s not just about the size - the blades can be made removable, bolted on, but also about the design features. Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. They work well on “light” soils.” On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.

Making a garden drill

A garden auger is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:


This is a basic design, and there are many modifications to it. But let's first talk about what an earth drill can be made from.

Materials

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4′ to 1.5′, profiled pipe can be taken from 20*20 mm to 35*35 mm.

Blade knives can be made from:

It's easier to make blades from saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already ready. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the soil easier to cut.

The peak drill is made from different materials- there are a lot of her designs. They just make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of large diameter rod. The second option is to make something like a drill from the steel strip. And yet - a combination of these two.

Pike - one of the tip options

And finally - about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made from round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the circumference of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and fastening method

First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30°.

After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of substantial diameter.

One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for holes of different diameters

You will have to cut holes in the center of the disks themselves so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper and use it to create a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - you will need to insert and weld a rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the chosen rod. The hole dimensions are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

The edges should also be separated by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loams with a predominance of clay), the blades may collapse under load. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

The blades bend due to the fact that unhardened steel is used, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and even if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.

From a saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of suitable diameter, you have found almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, which is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, so it is sawed in half and these halves are placed at the required angle.

Such homemade drill for excavation works shows quite high performance. Even used wheels have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.

Modifications

In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades are welded onto the rod. different sizes. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded; above, retreating a few centimeters, the large ones are welded. There can be three such tiers, maximum four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is physically very difficult to work.

If a drill is needed for shallow holes - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it is relatively light in weight and easy to work with. The working process is as follows: they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times, pulled it out, and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep holes, you will suffer from carrying a small amount of soil from the depths. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded above the blades.

And all these are hand-made drills. All of them are highly efficient - it’s much easier to work than store-bought ones.

Auger drill

Due to the large number of turns, an auger auger creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden auger. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they are made - for water, devices for underground probes for heat pump and so on.

For making homemade auger drill You will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut identically, a hole is cut in them in the center for the rod, as well as an identical sector - so that they can be welded.

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer disks. The welded discs are placed on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

Drill for TISE piles

In the author's version, the TISE drill is a blade with an earth receiver and a folding wider blade, which forms an expansion at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife gets in the way. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the holes themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and for expansion, make a separate folding knife with an earth receiver. This makes the work easier and faster.

Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options

A cut-off shovel serves as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the blade begins to trim the sides of the hole, forming the necessary expansion.

The photo below shows the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more effective. The plow blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to a folding structure with bolted joints.

The dredger is made from an old propane tank. The collection of soil occurs from below, which is why the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.

Blueprints

A self-made drill is good because its design is “tailored” to its owner. During the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are arbitrary; they can and should be changed, adjusting them to the size of the required wells.

There is no point in making a serious structure for planting plants. In this case you can do garden auger from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings as shown in the drawing. According to the markings, you will need to cut out two small fragments and saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).

If the ground is soft, the conventional design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.

This drawing shows an interesting handle design - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden auger

Both of these units work well, but the garden one has to be taken out often, and the auger one is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.

Garden auger drawing

Video materials

A hard-working person always has a lot to do, both at home, in the workshop, and in the garden. But you never know where a completely simple device may be needed - a modern embodiment in metal of the “Archimedean screw” principle!

Of course, like many other things, the designated tool, even on a gasoline engine, can today be bought in a specialized store. But for a real master who also knows how to count his money, there is no problem in how to make a drill with your own hands.

It is enough to assemble this device of high quality and easy to use in order to understand how much the horizon of possibilities of a person who wants to make his living space as comfortable and functional as possible will expand.

Hand drill for earth, its design and purpose

As already mentioned, a drill is perhaps the simplest mechanism that converts a person’s muscular effort or engine impulse (if we are talking about a motorized version) into a rotational-translational movement of a large “drill” (Fig. 1).

The simplicity and reliability of this device is emphasized by the minimal number of its components.

Figure 1. Earth drill - a device designed for drilling holes in the ground.

If you do not take into account some additional details, then conceptually it consists of only three elements - a metal (sometimes wooden, which is worse) pole (stand) or pipe attached to it at one end of the auger and a rotary handle (lever) attached to the other sides.

The auger, which forms a classic Archimedes screw, can have a number of additional blades for improved penetration of a particular soil mass, and the handle-lever can be made in the form of a T-shaped crossbar, a cross-shaped design, or in any other form that seems most acceptable to the customer for effective work with the drill.

This device is widely used in geological exploration and construction work ah, in gardening and during men's leisure, which is winter ice fishing. It will be very helpful for a person who needs to dig several planting holes in the garden, make drainage wells in the yard, make a number of recesses for mounting piles, etc.

Depending on these and other purposes for using the tool, all drills may differ from each other in size and have different auger configurations. However, they all operate on the same principle.

Materials and tools required for making a drill

Before you start working directly, you should stock up on everything necessary materials and tools. The master will need:

  • line segment gas pipe(for making a vertical stand);
  • a fragment of high-strength sheet steel (for the production of propeller blades);
  • a piece of smooth reinforcement (metal rod) with a diameter of 16-20 mm (for making a handle);
  • welding machine;
  • welding clamp;
  • lathe;
  • emery wheel;
  • electric drill;
  • set of metal drills;
  • angle grinder (grinder) with a metal disc;
  • gas key;
  • assembly vice.

How to make a drill: sequence of operations

The manufacture of a drill (Fig. 2) begins with the production of its blade. For this purpose, a steel sheet is taken from which round blanks are cut. They are made in such a way that the diameter of the circle is approximately 5-6 mm larger than the diameter of the planned hole in the ground. Enough for a standard drill minimum quantity in 2 disks.

Figure 2. Drawing of an earth drill.

Then in round blanks The central holes are drilled. For convenient mounting on a rack, their diameter must exceed the diameter metal pipe– future rack – by about 1-2 mm.

At the next stage, the points at which the disks will be attached to the rack are designated. Holes should be drilled in the pipe at these points. For mounting disks on lathe metal bushings are manufactured. They also have radial threaded holes. Bushings bolted to the post will attach the removable auger blades to it.

Next, using a grinder with a cutting wheel, small sectors are cut from the edge to the center in the blade blanks. After this, using a vice and gas wrenches, the edges of the cuts are carefully stretched in opposite directions. As a result, each circle should have a spiral appearance. To complete the preparation stage of the blades, the lower edges of their cutouts are sharpened at an angle of 50-60 degrees.

Let's move on to the counter. So that the drill can easily enter the processed mass, a metal drill is welded at its end, where the auger will be formed. For this purpose, the tip itself is sharpened at a sharpening angle of 20-30 degrees.

The final phase of manufacturing a hand drill is the installation of a handle-lever, which will carry out axial rotation of the entire device. To fix it on the stand, a special bushing is used, previously turned on a lathe. The handle should be removable, since when drilling to great depths, you will probably need to extend the stand more than once with additional elbows. The manufacture of these elbows should be taken care of separately.

DIY drill: other design options

Figure 3. A - diagram of a drill with an auger from a recycled combine harvester, B - diagram of a drill with a pan-shaped container, C - diagram of a drill with auger blades from used disks.

Along with the described standard drill, we can offer some other options for manufacturing a hand-held drilling device, which use elements of well-known designs that have already been in use.

In particular, you can make a drill that uses an auger that was once installed on a recycled grain harvester (Fig. 3, a). At the bottom of the auger, the diameter of which is approximately 130-150 mm, an auxiliary blade made up of two old cultivator paws is mounted near the end of the stand. They should be welded to the rack so that the angle between them and the plane perpendicular to the axis of the rack is 25-30 degrees.

It is possible to make a drill using a container shaped like a pan (Fig. 3, b). This element is attached to the stand through a hole drilled in the center of the bottom of the container. The stand at the bottom ends with a drill with a diameter of up to 25-30 mm. Two knives are attached to the container body on opposite sides. In front of both knives, slots up to 40 mm wide are made in the bottom of the pan - through them, when the drill rotates, waste soil will flow into the container and accumulate there. When the container is filled, the drill is removed from the recess, the contents are poured out and lowered into the well again.

The third option, the simplest, is a drill, the auger blades of which will be used disks, previously cut into two equal hemispheres (Fig. 3, c). These parts are welded to a metal stand at their central point. Moreover, improvised blades must be attached to the stand in the same place, at a distance of at least 900 mm from the lever handle.

To give these semicircles the properties of an effective drill screw, their planes must be inclined in directions opposite to each other, and the angle between both planes is set to at least 30 degrees. This option, despite all its simplicity, it is distinguished by a very high operating efficiency - such a drill can drill a meter-long well with a diameter of about 15 cm in 10 minutes.

A few points to consider when making a drill

To make a drill not only high-quality, but also practical in the widest possible range of applications, a clear understanding of a number of important factors and following the appropriate recommendations will help. In conclusion, they deserve special attention.

For example, when producing a universal hand drill, which can be used to perform operations of various purposes and volumes, it is recommended to ensure that the auger blades are not tightly welded to the stand, but are removable. This circumstance, as well as the presence of a whole set of round blades of different diameters and configurations, will certainly make this tool a truly multifunctional device, useful in many cases in life.

It is known from practice that 9- and 12-centimeter drill blades are best suited for drilling holes for fertilizing and planting seedlings, wells for determining the level groundwater, holes for the installation of greenhouses and installation of tunnels for underground communications. The blades, whose diameter is 17 and 25 cm, are best suited for those who plant plants with tap roots, fill the supports of all kinds of fences, fences and other small outbuildings, arrange compost pits, builds wells.

To create a well or carry out other types of excavation work, not only large-scale drilling rigs operated by specialists can be used. On a small scale and with enough time, simpler equipment can be used.

The simplest design of an earthen hand drill

One of these tools is an earth drill - a device that comes in many variations and varieties. It is most in demand for gardening and summer cottage work; it is also used in various industries.

Design and purpose of the drill

An excavation drill is a device that is used to create cylindrical holes in the soil (to be more precise, its upper layers are drilled).

It consists of a rod (rod), handle and drive.

At the bottom of the rod there is a guide tip and a helical blade, mainly made in the form of augers or cutters.

All drills can be divided into two categories: devices that require the use of manual force, and automatic drills equipped with motors.

A hand drill is an extremely simple and primitive design; it opens and passes through the top layers of soil without any problems. And mechanized devices used in industry, with electric or gasoline drives, can drill wells up to 3 meters deep, and they can easily pass through the hardest layers of soil.

A drill for drilling earth has a huge number of uses on the farm: it creates wells for planting trees, drills wells for installation pile foundation, pillars and other building structures.
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Types of drills

The classification of portable drilling devices, depending on the type of drive, is carried out into three groups: electric drill, hydraulic earth drill, and gasoline devices.

Gasoline hand drill

A gasoline earth drill (also known as a motor drill) is the best option for domestic use, if the capabilities of a conventional hand drill are not enough.

It easily opens layers of soil up to 2-3 meters deep; in fact, the depth of the well is limited only by the size of the rod extension.

In addition to devices for economic use, there is a category of heavy gas drills for construction: these are fairly large mechanisms that are controlled by two operators.

They are equipped with high-power engines that allow you to make wells in problematic soils: hard soil, sandy soil, or soil with high content mountain inclusions.

The main feature of such devices is that all engines are equipped with a gearbox, through which the engine torque is transmitted to the rock-breaking element.

Depending on the class of the device, two types of gearboxes can be installed on it: for heavy drills - worm gears, for light drills - coaxial gearboxes.

The fuel usually used is gasoline mixed with 92 oil.

The design of the motor drill consists of the following elements:

  • Drive: for heavy ones - 3-4 stroke engines, for light ones - two-stroke;
  • Handle for holding;
  • Control elements: power adjustment, speed switching;
  • Augers are usually used as a forage destruction element.

The cost of devices for household use starts from 10 thousand rubles. When purchasing, you should first of all pay attention to such manufacturers as Hitachi, Husqvarna, Stihl - these are well-established companies whose products have an optimal price-performance ratio.

Electric hand drill

There are also a large number of companies where you can rent a motor drill. In general, renting is great option, if you only need the device for a few days. Today, rent, on average in the market, costs about 1000 rubles per day, plus you will need to pay a deposit of 5-10 thousand.

Electric drills are a less popular option compared to the previous one, but still common and well-known.

The only structural difference between such mechanisms and gas drills is the electric motor - all other elements are identical. The use of an electric drive adds both advantages and certain disadvantages to the device.

The indisputable advantages of electric drills include their noiselessness, since, unlike a gasoline engine, the electric drive is practically inaudible.

The disadvantages are the following: electric motors have relatively less power than gasoline ones, that is, for the same money you can buy a more powerful gas drill than a device with an electric motor.

For domestic use this is not particularly important, but in the case of professional use this factor can become critical. It is also worth remembering that the device must be connected to the network, which somewhat reduces its portability, since any batteries have the unpleasant feature of running out at the most inopportune moment.

The cost of high-quality electric drills starts from 15 thousand. The main manufacturers are Makita, Mora, Hitachi. Rent – ​​from 1000 rubles per day.

Hydraulic drills - serious category industrial installations. The main advantage of such drills over gasoline and electric devices is the reverse function, which makes it possible to drill both clockwise and counterclockwise. Thanks to it, it is much easier to pass through problematic soil layers.

Hydraulic hand drill

In addition, hydraulic motors, in comparison with electric drives, are 2-3 times smaller in size and much lighter in weight, which makes a hydraulic earth drill more convenient to use.

But even with the same drive size, a hydraulic earth drill will always have more power. Hydraulic motors provide the most flexible control of shaft speed, which allows you to select optimal mode drilling into different layers of soil.

The only significant drawback of drills with hydraulic motors is the “delicacy” of the drive. It is necessary to always maintain its cleanliness, since mechanical contamination inside the drive significantly reduces the service life of the device.

A hydraulic earth drill, in comparison with analogues, is several times more expensive. So, the average price is 30-35 thousand. Renting hydraulic drills will cost you from 1.

5 to 2 thousand per day. It is also possible to rent a hydraulic drill with operators, in which case you will pay for one hour of time. This rental will cost you about 1 thousand rubles per hour.

How to make a drill with your own hands?

If you do not want to purchase something that you can make yourself, or you are not satisfied with the expensive rental of equipment, then you can try to make a mechanical earth drill with your own hands.

To create a homemade drill you need the following tools:

  • Welding machine;
  • Grinder (with metal circles);
  • Small repair equipment - hammer, metal brush, pliers, sandpaper.

The process of drilling the earth with a hand drill

It is also necessary to acquire the materials from which the structure will be made:

  • For the rod - fittings 150 cm long, 15 mm in diameter. (adjust the height of the drill depending on your height);
  • For the handle - fittings, or a metal pipe 40 centimeters long, with a diameter of 20 mm;
  • For a cutter - a disk from a circular saw, or a sheet of metal 3-4 mm thick;
  • For the “needle” (guide element) – a metal drill with a diameter of 15 mm.

A homemade hand drill for excavation work is made as follows:

  • We manufacture drill cutters (blades). If you take a disk from a circular saw to do this, you can save a significant amount of time and effort.
  • To make a cutter from such a disk, cut it in half, and on each half grind off the blades with which the disk was originally equipped. There is no need to sharpen the edges of the cutters at first, so as not to cut yourself during the welding process - the sharpness is imparted after all the connections are completed.
  • If using ordinary metal, make approximate markings on the sheet and cut out two blanks with a grinder. Their size depends on the purpose for which the manual excavation drill will be used - to drill a well for a foundation, or a well for planting trees.
  • If there is no clear goal, then the best option “for all occasions” are cutters from 15 to 20 mm.
  • We prepare the fittings for the rod. It is not recommended to make a rod from two small pieces of reinforcement welded together, since sooner or later, due to soil resistance, their connection will disintegrate.
  • A metal drill is welded to the end of the rod; it acts as a homemade guide element (the optimal length of the drill is from 7 to 10 centimeters)
  • We weld cutters to the junction of the reinforcement and the drill on the rod. This should be done so that there is an angle of 30 degrees between them.
  • We take an angle grinder and put it on abrasive wheel on metal, and sharpen the edges of the cutters: remove the upper and lower layers of metal along the outer edges of the semicircles.
  • We make a handle: a piece of reinforcement, or a steel pipe, is welded perpendicular to the top of the rod.

You can also make a slightly improved design - a homemade hand drill for excavation work with an extendable rod.

To do this, a bolt is welded to the drill handle, and a nut is welded to the top of the rod.

A piece of metal pipe is used as an extension, onto the edges of which a bolt and nut are welded, identical in size to those welded to the handle and rod.
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Construction and application of the drill (video)

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Source: https://byreniepro.ru/byr-instrumenty/zemlyanoy-bur.html

Electric drill for excavation work: advantages of modern devices

On garden plot you have to use different equipment. To plant trees or build a fence, the owner will need an electric excavation drill.

This device is simple in design and has high performance.

You just need to choose the right device, and the work will take less physical effort and time.

general information

Before going to the store to buy such a device, you should find out what an electric drill for excavation work is and how it generally works.

Most models have a special frame as the main structural element. It has two handles, and also has an electric motor, complemented by a gearbox.

The latter is necessary to increase torque when using the device.

There are many criteria for choosing an electric drill

During work, the unit must be held by two people at the same time. When the gearbox shaft rotates, torque is transmitted to the screw auger.

Thanks to him, it becomes possible to perform a variety of earthworks. How much you have to spend on purchasing equipment largely depends on its characteristics.

The most important are:

  • dimensions;
  • power;
  • terms of Use.

Range similar devices on Russian market small, which is explained by the limited scope of their use. But in fact, an electric drill is a fairly universal device.

The choice in favor of a specific type must be made by the consumer based on the type of soil prevailing on the site.

In addition to it, you can purchase a variety of attachments that manufacturers offer for different surfaces.

In this video you will learn more about the earthen drill:

Advantages and disadvantages

Although electric earth drills are available in stores, they are rarely used on sites. Many people refuse to buy a device because they simply do not know about its main advantages:

  1. Saving physical strength. These devices are powered by electricity, making the job of drilling holes in the ground an easy task.
  2. Environmental friendliness. Unlike gasoline devices, their electric counterparts do not emit exhaust gases during operation, so they are harmful to plants and environment absent.
  3. Silence. An electric drill does not create noise during work. Thus, its use completely eliminates discomfort for neighbors.
  4. Minimum weight. Modern models They are lightweight, which also gives them an advantage over gasoline devices.

The main and only disadvantage of these devices is that the drill is tied to electrical outlet 220 V. If the site is not electrified, then it is not possible to use such equipment. Although many models are equipped with batteries, the battery energy is not enough for long-term operation of the device.

Rules of application

Typically, an electric earth drill is used to make holes for planting fruit trees or bushes. But this device can also come in handy during construction work. It is great for creating holes where piles or other supporting elements will later be installed.

Manually creating holes in the ground is a labor-intensive task., and it is noticeably complicated by the encountered stones and tree roots.

However, using an electric drill can solve the problem easily and quickly.

In a situation where it is necessary to drill holes in hard to reach place where it is not possible to place large equipment, such a device will significantly facilitate the process.

There are a variety of electric drills available in the market today. They differ in size from each other.

They can even be used for work such as drilling a well or constructing a well.

If you need a device to perform a wide range of tasks in the garden, then you can easily purchase it at any specialized store.

Nuances of choice

In order for equipment to provide high efficiency when used, it should be selected correctly, focusing on the tasks to be solved. The main points that deserve attention when choosing an electric drill are the power of the device and the equipment of the device.

It is necessary to understand that low power limits the scope of use. But buying equipment high power is also an irrational solution, especially if it is planned to be used only occasionally in the garden plot. Optimal choice will purchase a device with a power of 1.5 kW.

If an electric drill is required to install a pile foundation or perform another labor-intensive task, then models from 2 kW and above should be considered.

The well-equipped device makes it easy to perform a variety of jobs. Such a device can be considered universal, but this leads to an increase in its cost.

In specialized stores, the minimum price for such equipment is 15,000 rubles.

To get a high-quality and reliable device at your disposal, you need to spend a lot of money.

Main manufacturers

Many companies produce drilling equipment for use in garden plots. In countries such as Japan, Sweden and Italy, there are many companies producing electric drills . Among Russian consumers, the most popular devices are from the following companies:

  1. ECHO. This Japanese company produces a variety of products. The models are highly reliable and delight with their performance characteristics. Their feature is quite simple design. This rules out frequent breakdowns and makes maintenance easier. The average price tag for devices from this manufacturer is 28,000 rubles.
  2. EFCO. The Italian manufacturer offers a variety of devices for drilling operations. A special feature of the devices is their increased strength; they can easily withstand heavy loads. The devices are great for frequent use. The brand's products are offered at an average price of 29,000 rubles.
  3. STIHL The equipment of this company is well known on the Russian market. The domestic manufacturer offers a variety of devices. Its product line also includes electric drills. The models are practical and durable. They are also economical to use. The devices can be used to perform work of varying complexity and are equipped with a safe locking system. The average price for them in comparison with foreign analogues is much lower and amounts to 15,000 rubles.

By choosing a device from one of the well-known manufacturers, you can get a reliable device that will last a long time. You should not purchase equipment secondhand.

The best solution is to cooperate with a dealer.

You can actually buy from the official representative of the brand quality equipment Moreover, in this case competent service is guaranteed.

: do-it-yourself hole drill for a tractor, drawings.

An electric drill is an indispensable device in the garden plot. Many jobs are hard to do without it. universal device. Modern models are very easy to use and allow you to solve a variety of problems.

Even creating holes for a pile foundation will not require large expenses and physical strength When using this technique, you just need to choose the right device. Preference should be given to products from well-known companies.

Source: https://zaborprofi.com/instrument/jelektrobur-dlja-zemljanyh-rabot.html

How to make a homemade earth drill (pit drill, earth drill)

When building a house and landscaping a site, it is often necessary to make round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing poles, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures.

The same holes, but with a larger diameter and depth, are required when constructing a pile foundation. These holes are made with a motorized or hand drill. There are plenty of them in stores, but many people prefer homemade ones: they are often more productive and reliable than factory-made products.

In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are many of them.

Designs and Applications

There are three main designs of earth drills:

  • Garden. Usually these are two semicircular blades welded at an angle to one another. A hand drill of this design is used to organize holes for planting plants, which is why it is called “garden”. But the same tool is used to make holes when installing posts for fences, gazebos and other light buildings. An example of a homemade earthen garden drill
  • Auger drill. It differs in that it has a longer cutting part. It is used for the same purposes - to make holes for pillars. Due to its design - a longer cutting part - it needs to be removed less often, so drilling usually proceeds faster. The auger drill is distinguished by several turns of the spiral wound spirally
  • Drill for TISE piles. This design is similar to a garden auger, but has an additional folding blade to form an expansion at the bottom of the pile, characteristic of this type of foundation. Folding blade - features of the TISE pile drill

Garden earth drills that are easier to make. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified.

This is the beauty of homemade drills - they can be “sharpened” to specific conditions and it’s not only about the size - the blades can be made removable, bolted on, but also about the design features.

Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. They work well on “light” soils.” On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.

Making a garden drill

A garden drill is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:

  • Cutting part. It usually consists of two steel semicircles with sharpened edges. The diameter of the blades is selected depending on the diameter of the holes that need to be drilled. For convenience, the blades can be made removable - bolted on. The pole drill can be equipped with a prefabricated rod
  • Kernel. This is a round or profiled pipe (square cross-section). A crowbar can also be used, but it is very heavy and will be difficult to work with. The length of the rod is the required depth of the hole plus 50-60 cm. If you make it shorter, then the last centimeters will have to be drilled in a deep slope, which is not at all easy. If this calculation results in a total height higher than 1.5 meters, it makes sense to make a prefabricated rod. Then the rod is extended with pipe sections of the same diameter, creating an articulation system.
  • Pen. Most often, a crossbar in the shape of the letter T is welded to the rod. The minimum length of the handle is 40 cm, the optimal length is about 50-60 cm.
  • The tip is a drill. This is the part that is under the blades. It is the first to loosen the soil, and at the initial stage it is responsible for centering the drill - it is easier to hold it vertically.

This is a basic design, and there are many modifications to it. But let's first talk about what an earth drill can be made from.

Materials

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4′ to 1.5′, profiled pipe can be taken from 20*20 mm to 35*35 mm.

Blade knives can be made from:

  • sheet steel with a thickness of 4 mm;
  • saw blade for an angle grinder of suitable diameter. Earth drill with blades from a saw blade for an angle grinder

It is easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already ready. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the soil easier to cut.

The spear-drill is made from different materials - there are a lot of designs. They just make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of large diameter rod. The second option is to make something like a drill from the steel strip. And yet - a combination of these two.

A tip for an earth drill made from a strip of Pike steel - one of the tip options. A combined tip for crushing rocks.

And finally - about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of a round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the circumference of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and fastening method

First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30°.

After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of substantial diameter.

One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for holes of different diameters

You will have to cut holes in the center of the disks themselves so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper and use it to create a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - you will need to insert and weld a rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the selected rod. The hole dimensions are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

Manual drill with one turn

The edges should also be separated by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loams with a predominance of clay), the blades may collapse under load. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

Strengthening a hand drill for drilling wells in dense soils

The blades bend due to the fact that unhardened steel is used, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and even if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.

From a saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found an almost ideal option. They use hardened steel, which is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, so it is sawed in half and these halves are placed at the required angle.

The disc is sawn in half

This homemade drill for excavation works shows quite high productivity. Even used wheels have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.

Modifications

In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades of different sizes are welded onto the rod.

From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded; above, retreating a few centimeters, the large ones are welded. There can be three such tiers, maximum four.

The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is physically very difficult to work.

Cutting blades can be arranged in several tiers

If a drill is needed for shallow holes - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it is relatively light in weight and easy to work with.

The working process is as follows: they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times, pulled it out, and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep holes, you will suffer from carrying a small amount of soil from the depths.

For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded above the blades.

A homemade drill with an earth receiver is suitable for installing poles and piles

And all these are hand-made drills. All of them are highly efficient - it is much easier to work than store-bought ones.

Auger drill

Due to the large number of turns, an auger auger creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden auger. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when making a drill for deep wells - for water, for installing underground probes for a heat pump, etc.

This is what an auger drill looks like

To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut identically, a hole is cut in them in the center for the rod, as well as an identical sector - so that they can be welded.

A sector is marked in the rings and cut out

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer disks. The welded discs are placed on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

Almost done

Drill for TISE piles

In the author's version, the TISE drill is a blade with an earth receiver and a folding wider blade, which forms an expansion at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife gets in the way.

Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the holes themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and for expansion, make a separate folding knife with an earth receiver.

This makes the work easier and faster.

Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options

A cut-off shovel serves as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the blade begins to trim the sides of the hole, forming the necessary expansion.

The photo below shows the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more effective. The plow blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to a folding structure with bolted joints.

More complex design

The dredger is made from an old propane tank. The collection of soil occurs from below, which is why the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

Bottom view

This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.

Blueprints

A self-made drill is good because its design is “tailored” to its owner. During the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product.

But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills.

As you understand, the dimensions are arbitrary; they can and should be changed, adjusting them to the size of the required wells.

Shovel drill

There is no point in making a serious structure for planting plants. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings as shown in the drawing. According to the markings, you will need to cut out two small fragments and saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).

Drill for soft soils

If the ground is soft, the conventional design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.

Drill for soft soils

This drawing shows an interesting handle design - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden auger

Both of these units work well, but the garden one has to be taken out often, and the auger one is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.

Auger and garden auger for soil of different densities

Detailed projection drawing of an auger drill

Garden auger drawing