Shower      06/23/2020

How to make a wide addition to the interior door. Installing a door trim. Materials for extensions

It is quite possible to install extensions on your own if you study the advice of professionals in advance When replacing doors in a private house or apartment, it is very often necessary to install extensions with your own hands. Naturally, they can be replaced with platbands or slopes can be made, but it will not look as impressive as a properly selected and established supplement. Therefore, every novice master should know how to install extensions on interior or entrance doors to make it yourself, thereby saving time and the family budget.

Dobor for the door: what is it

When buying a ready-made door frame its thickness may not correspond to the thickness of the wall in the room. Then you have to install an additional board. This is a special plank made of solid wood, fiberboard or MDF, which can be from six millimeters to three centimeters thick. Its width can be different, depending on the size of the section of the wall that needs to be covered with an extension.

The dobor for the door is a special strip, which can be made of MDF or fiberboard

Add-on types:

  1. A simple extension is an ordinary additional plank, up to 25 centimeters wide. It can be of different colors, from which the most suitable for finishing your door is selected.
  2. A telescopic dobor is a set of slats that can be inserted into one another due to the presence of grooves and ridges. Thus, by connecting the planks, you can close any section of the wall.
  3. Combined dobor is a doborny board 2-5 centimeters wide, connected to the platband. It is installed only where it is necessary to veneer a small section of the wall.

Before installing the extension, it is imperative to make the most accurate measurements, since the thickness of the walls may not be the same everywhere.

Proper installation of the addition of interior doors with your own hands

Starting the installation of the dobor, you must first install and fix door block. Most door frames have a prefabricated groove for the installation of additional boards, but some models do not have it. Therefore, the installation technology will be different.

Before installing the extension, you must first properly install the door

Installing the dobor in a box with a groove:

  • The groove intended for the addition is completely cleared of the remnants of mounting foam or other finishing materials;
  • Then top bar inserted into the recess for fitting, the necessary marks are made on it and connected to each other by a straight line;
  • The board is evenly cut with a jigsaw or sawmill;
  • In the same way, the side doborniks are adjusted;
  • Wedges can be placed between the frame and the extension for a more precise fit;
  • Further, the extensions are inserted into the grooves and filled along the contour with mounting foam.

If there is no recess in the door frame, then it can be cut out independently with a milling cutter.

Ways to install additional strips in a box without grooves:

  • Attachment can be made to wooden blocks screwed to the wall and located at the same distance from each other;
  • Installation of additional elements is carried out by attaching to the box beam using self-tapping screws;
  • From the outside, a rail is driven in around the entire perimeter, on which extensions should be fixed.

How to attach a telescopic extension to an interior door

The technology for installing telescopic extensions is practically the same as mounting extensions in a box with grooves. Only the build-up of the strips takes place in stages, and the installation of each subsequent batch is carried out after the complete curing of the mounting foam.

It is categorically not recommended to install a fully assembled shield, since after applying the foam there is a high chance of cracks forming between the planks. In this way, only professional builders can install a telescopic extension using special rails.

Telescopic dobor is quite popular and in demand today.

Advantages telescopic dobor:

  • The doorway, decorated with additional slats, looks impressive in any interior;
  • Can be used even on expanding doorways;
  • Thanks to the addition, the slopes do not get dirty and do not collapse;
  • A large selection of shades allows you to choose telescopic slopes to match the color of the doors.

It is necessary to adjust the slats very carefully so as not to damage the recesses and ridges of the fasteners.

Quick installation of extensions and platbands on interior doors

Dobors with platbands are installed quickly and easily, because they do not need capital fasteners. They just need to be inserted into the recesses of the box. This perfect solution for narrow doorways.

Simple and easy to install extensions with special platbands that are inserted into the recesses of the door frame

Work order:

  • The upper doborny level is adjusted exactly in size;
  • Side dobors-platbands are cut only in the lower part to the desired height;
  • All elements are tightly inserted into the grooves.

Side extensions cannot be sawn off from above, because there are grooves for attaching the top bar.

Close attention should be paid to fitting the corners, otherwise the casing may stand crooked and ruin appearance doors.

Professional installation of extensions on interior doors (video)

In order for the door with the extension installed on it to look aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary not only to correctly calculate all the dimensions, but also to correctly install the extension strips. You should also think about the design in advance: if the store does not have an extension suitable for your door, then you can take strips of contrasting color that will look perfect in the interior. Following all the advice of professionals, and following detailed instructions, you can easily install additional elements of any complexity. If the walls are not too smooth and have big difference in thickness, that is, it is reasonable to install plastic slopes with wood pattern or wall color.

Installation of interior doors can be carried out in a wall opening of arbitrary thickness. At the same time, frames for interior doors are offered with only a few standard depth values, which almost never exceed 100 mm. On the rest of the opening, you can slope, but this is long and difficult for a novice master. A much more technological and aesthetic solution would be to install an extension.

Door frame with extensions.

Tools and materials

Before starting work on installing interior doors, you need to stock up on everything you need.

List of tools:

  • roulette;
  • level;
  • pencil;
  • hacksaw;
  • drill;
  • chisel;
  • hammer;
  • miter box;
  • square;
  • glue gun;
  • electric jigsaw or circular saw.

List of materials:

Dobory for interroom doors.

  • box set;
  • hidden fasteners for the box or direct suspensions;
  • canvas;
  • additional strips;
  • platbands;
  • awnings;
  • masking tape;
  • self-tapping screws.

Before purchasing interior doors, you should carefully measure all the parameters of the opening and the adjacent wall. For normal operation of interior doors, they must be installed strictly vertically flush with one side of the wall. The wall itself is very often littered in one direction or the other. As a result, the casing does not adjoin the wall in the upper or lower part. The problem is solved by installing telescopic platbands.

The same applies to additional elements. When using a box with a groove for the addition, it will be easier to correct deviations in the geometry of the wall. You should not buy a box without a groove, even when installing interior doors in a wall opening with good geometry. The junction of the extension with the box through the groove allows you to adjust the elements to any width of the opening.

Special hidden fasteners for installing the box cannot be purchased at any store, but these elements allow you to firmly fix the side strips with a certain gap and set them in level. In fact, most installers do just fine without them, using traditional fixing methods.

Related article: Besser fence

Box assembly

If a unit with a universal box is purchased, it must be adjusted to the canvas size and assembled before installation. The box is laid out on the floor. The canvas is placed between the side slats on the porch. The top bar is put in place. Along the perimeter of the canvas, gaps of 2.5 mm are installed to the side strips and 5 mm to the top. On the upper vestibule, marks are made in alignment with the side ones.

Installing an extension on the front door.

10-15 mm are deposited from the lower end of the canvas on the side rails. For kitchen door and doors of premises with boilers and geysers this size is increased to 40-50 mm for normal air flow through the gap between the canvas and the floor. At 20 cm from the ends of the canvas, the locations of the loops are marked.

According to the marks made, all 3 strips are shortened. To perform a perpendicular cut, it is better to use a miter box. Otherwise, you need to draw lines along the square and try to keep the hacksaw vertical. The upper narthex is cut with a hacksaw along the marks and chiseled off with a chisel in the areas where the upper and side slats adjoin.

Under standard canopies, a chisel is used to remove excess material on the canvas and one of the side rails. After which they are fixed with screws into the prepared seats. When using butterfly canopies, no material selection is required. They are simply screwed on. To prevent cracking of the material, holes for self-tapping screws are pre-drilled.

It is better to drill holes and screw the side strips to the top with the canvas inserted in its place and the gaps set. To connect the parts to the ends of the side elements, a pair of wood screws 75 mm long is screwed through the top. In the upper jumper, you need to make cuts to align the extensions. It is better to cut the extensions along the length of the elements of the box before its installation, the width is determined later.

Related article: Heating system smart home

Box fixing

Door construction.

Installation begins with fastening the plank with awnings. It must be leveled in two planes and aligned with the wall. When the wall is littered and installation with telescopic architraves, the box is installed at the deepest point. You can even drown a little more so that the taper is not conspicuous. The remaining elements of the box are exposed when the canvas is hung. If there is the correct porch and gaps, then the slats are in place.

To fix the box, hidden fasteners, direct hangers, self-tapping screws or dowels screwed through the material are used to choose from. The latter are hidden behind a removable porch. If the porch and the box are made as a single piece, for hidden installation they are placed behind the canopies and the latch striker. This option for the location of hardware is suitable if the material of the opening is not prone to cracking or there are embedded parts in the right places.

In the installation position, the box is wedged, the gap around the perimeter is wetted and filled with mounting foam. The squeezing of the slats into the opening can be prevented by closing the door. To prevent the canvas from being clamped by the box, tile crosses, cardboard, matches, and the like are inserted into the gap between them.

Fastening dobor and platbands

Types of extensions for interior doors.

Dobors are inserted into the landing grooves. On each of them, two extreme draft marks are marked in the plane of alignment with the wall. For the accuracy of finding the desired point, any guide is applied to the wall. Dobora are removed from the grooves. To get finishing marks, you need to set aside the distance from the outer end to the rough mark from the inner end. A line is drawn along the new finishing marks, along which the excess is cut off.

The received parts are installed in place. Wedges are placed between them and the ends of the opening, which eliminates the gap at the junction with the box. In this position, the extensions are intercepted with masking tape to the adjacent wall. You need to try to position the extensions exactly perpendicular to the wall. For this you can use a square.

For final fixation, mounting foam is used. It should not fill the groove completely. Foam is applied pointwise in increments of 10-15 cm.

This will allow it to work like glue. Expanding, the foam will fill the free space and not warp the thin planks.

And you need to quickly solve it, try to make extensions for the front doors with your own hands. They can be made from different materials, and it will take not so much time.

It is very easy to make dobors on your own

Types of extensions

First you need to understand what they are door extensions. When a situation may arise when the width of the hole is not large enough to completely cover the wall. Naturally, leaving a bare section of the wall is unacceptable. What to do in this case?

Here, additional elements come to the rescue, in fact - this is a bar that closes the section of the wall left without cladding, with their help you can compensate for the lack of a narrow box, the door takes on a finished look.

Before you make dobors for entrance or interior doors with your own hands, you need to learn to distinguish between their types. The simplest is a straight plank without a facing edge, it is very easy to make, almost any material is suitable for this, but for the aesthetics of the look, you need to hide the raw end with a casing.

The simplest dobor is an ordinary wooden plank covered with a facing material.

The second type is a kind of modification of the previous one. There is no difference in the design itself, the difference is that the end cut is sealed with an edge. This not only positively affects the appearance of the product, but also protects the material from moisture penetration, which is especially important for chipboard and MDF.

More perfect is distinguished by the presence of an edge on the end side

The most difficult is the telescopic extension, its peculiarity is that the bar has special protrusions and recesses that allow it to fit perfectly with other elements of the door system: the frame and trim. The width is regulated by the degree of deepening into the grooves. To make such a bar you need patience and an additional tool.

The telescopic door extension has a special design

If you do not have experience in carpentry, it is better to limit yourself to the first two types.

Buy ready-made or make your own

What will be more profitable in the end: buy ready-made extensions or make them yourself? This largely depends on the front door itself. Most models are made of steel, and in appearance imitate natural wood. In this case, you can make extras yourself. The same applies to wooden doors.

Usually door extensions come with doors.

If steel door has a complex box of the same material, it may be better to purchase ready-made extensions, they will blend perfectly with the system and will not spoil general form. If your qualifications are not enough to make telescopic extensions, then it is better to abandon the idea. self-manufacturing, since ordinary ones can spoil the look of an expensive door. In addition, they can be ordered from door manufacturers complete with a box, while they will be identical in color to all other design details.

materials

Of course, far from everyone will be able to make metal extensions on their own, mainly for this purpose they use:

  • tree,
  • plastic.

The main materials for the manufacture of extensions

Tree is the most environmentally friendly material, but wood can deteriorate under adverse operating conditions, so it requires additional processing, which also requires effort and money.

MDF most often used for furnishing various designs. In industrial models between two thin sheets the inside is filled with cellular material, in homemade ones it is often an ordinary piece of MDF.

Chipboard worse in quality than previous samples. If we are talking about an internal entrance door to an apartment, in principle, you can use it, especially since the cost of chipboard is low.

Plastic can also be used for arranging extensions, however, the usual cheap material not suitable, you need high-strength plastic, preferably reinforced with metal.

MDF door frames are the most sought-after parts in their segment - they last a long time and have a presentable appearance

Manufacturing instructions

How to make dobor on the front door with your own hands? Consider a simple option that will be within the power of everyone home master- wood extensions.

Tree - the best option for self-production

The first step is to measure the width of the wall, which must be closed with an extension. We take a bar of suitable width, lining is perfect for this purpose. Please note that the extension should slightly go under the edge of the box, so the sides need to be slightly cut at an angle to get a neat, even chamfer. Bring the surface to perfect smoothness, use a grinder or sandpaper zero.

Neat smooth chamfer looks very aesthetically pleasing

To extend the service life, the wood must be treated with antiseptic impregnation, it will protect the extensions from mold, fungus, and insects.

Then you need to paint the planks with a stain, you need to select its shade in the color of the door so that the difference between the elements of the box and the canvas is minimized. After drying, the dobors need to be opened with varnish, this should be done in two layers to ensure reliable protection from moisture.

Wooden planks must be opened with stain

If you decide to make extensions from MDF or chipboard, the process is greatly facilitated - you just need to cut the strips of the required width and veneer the sections, for this they use PVC edging on an adhesive basis. To fasten it, use a heated iron, as under the influence high temperature the glue softens and securely fastens the edge to the surface, so that the ends will be reliably protected from moisture and shock.

The variety of colors of PVC edges is simply huge.

Installation

Making slats is only part of the task, then you need to put it in the right place. It is best to start the installation from the upper horizontal bar, after its installation it will be easier to adjust the length of the side elements.

Entrance door extensions, if properly selected, are installed quickly and without any difficulty.

Attachments can be attached in a number of ways. Telescopic are installed in special grooves and snap into place on the lock. But direct extensions can be planted on liquid nails, but this method is far from always suitable, especially if the wall surface is uneven.

Scheme of installation of simple and telescopic extensions

Most often, homemade dobors are fixed with self-tapping screws. First, you need to outline the places for future fasteners and drill holes, then the extreme self-tapping screws are screwed and then the central one. After the location of the extensions is planned, you can begin to strengthen the structure, for this, a few more screws are twisted. Holes and caps can be masked with furniture plugs or with putty to match the material. Now your front door is ready!

November 20, 2016
Specialization: master in construction drywall constructions, finishing works and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Today I will tell you how I installed MDF trims and platbands. All photos are taken during the work in my apartment, I also shot a video of the process so that you can understand it as best as possible. In my opinion, the work is not difficult, and the main thing that will be required is accuracy and precision so as not to spoil the materials.

The working process

I divided all the work into 3 parts:

  • Preparation of materials and openings;
  • Cutting and fastening extensions;
  • Cutting and fastening the casing.

Let's consider all the stages in order.

Stage 1 - preparation

To work we need the following:

  • Platband in the required quantity, the calculation is usually carried out in the store;

  • Dobory right size. It should be noted here that the elements are sold in the form, which must be cut in half when used. It is important to correctly measure the width that should be closed in order to get what you need.

From the tool I used the following:

  • Roulette and square for marking, and a tape measure for measuring all required parameters;
  • Electric jigsaw for cutting, it is best to work using special blades with a fine tooth size, they provide perfect work quality and do not leave scoring on the ends;

  • Knife for cutting excess foam around door frames.

As part of the preparation, one more important work needs to be done, cut off the foam so that it is flush with the surface of the wall. The work is simple, you need a knife with a sharp blade, with the help of which the excess is cut and removed, it is important to do the work carefully and not cut deep into the foam, keep the blade parallel to the wall.

Stage 2 - installation of extensions

Additional elements are placed on the side of the box where it is recessed into the opening. That is, on the one hand, our structure is flush with the wall, and on the other, additional spacers need to be installed.

The workflow consists of the following steps:

  • The length of the products is measured, for this the edge of the tape measure is inserted into the groove, and the tape is lowered to the level along which the bottom of the element will pass;
  • The dobor is dissolved into two parts, you need to cut in the middle of the groove, so that in the end you get two units that we will use. You can mark the cut line, or you can do without it;

  • After the panels are dissolved, we need to cut off the element of the length we need. The main thing is to correctly mark the bar and cut it evenly (use a square when marking);
  • The product prepared in this way is aligned along the upper edge and carefully hammered into the groove to the level we need. Hammers and other tools are not needed, with the back of the hand everything turns out much faster. The element on the second side is also installed;

  • After installing the side elements, the size of the upper part is measured and a piece of the desired size is cut off. During installation, make sure that the dobor is located evenly and the system does not warp;

Stage 3 - installing the casing

The platband, unlike the extension, is installed on both sides of the opening, so the work takes more time and consists of the following actions:

  • First of all, measurements of the length of the side elements are made. Everything is the same here as with extensions - you need a length from the groove to the base;

Always check the ends of the architraves, we had all the strips cut crookedly, and I had to cut the elements not from one, but from both sides, in order to get the perfect geometry of the products.

  • The side elements are put in place, there is not much difference from which side the work is carried out, the main thing is to set the casing exactly along the upper part, after which it is also clogged with the palm of your hand until it stops, a very strong connection is obtained without the use of glue and nails;

  • When the side pieces are in place, you can measure the width of the top bar. It is very important to accurately determine the size, the appearance of the blocks depends on this, any inaccuracies will be very clearly visible;

  • A piece is cut off desired length, once again I remind you of the importance of perpendicular corners and even ends, mark everything with a square and cut carefully;
  • The element is tried on at the place of its future location, since it is wider than the groove of the box, it is necessary to cut off the extra protrusions so that they do not rest against the wall. It is important to accurately mark the cutting line;

  • The protrusion is cut flush with the plane reverse side platband, the photo shows the final result of the work;

  • The platband is exposed and carefully hammered into place - you can enjoy the excellent result of the work.

Conclusion

I recommend watching the video, in which many points are shown clearly and explained in more detail, it also considers the option of framing a narrow space near the box when the casing does not fit. I hope that you will understand the process, and if you have any questions, then write them in the comments.

Installation of entrance and interior doors can not always go smoothly. The door frame and the thickness of the wall in the room can vary significantly. In this case, you will need special installation doborov on the door. What it is and how to choose and install these components correctly will be discussed in this article.

Peculiarities

Before proceeding to describe the features of such a procedure as installing extensions, you need to familiarize yourself with what it is and what they are generally used for. Dobor is a special plank made of wood or MDF, with which you can equalize the thickness of the door frame and the wall itself. If this is not done, then a gap will be visible between the box and the wall, which over time can lead to loosening of the door leaf. This device is attached to the top door structure.

The main feature of the installation of extensions on the door is that it is carried out from the opposite side. door hinges. This is the only way to make sure that the canvas opens and closes freely. The second feature lies in the fact that even when installing these parts, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 mm between the upper part of the door itself and its box.

If the extensions interfere with the opening of the door, it is necessary to install special substrates on the side of the hinges, next to the slopes. Before installing them, you need to remove upper layer plasters.

And another difficulty lies in the choice of the extensions themselves. It is best to purchase those products that are made of the same material as the door leaf itself and its frame.

An inattentive attitude to these features will simply lead to the fact that the extensions themselves will quickly wear out or break. The door structure will begin to settle and deform. It is imperative that after direct installation, carefully process the extension itself. This can be done using protective coating, furniture varnish or paint of a suitable size.

The installation of the extensions themselves, as well as their subsequent finishing, in fact, takes little time. But only on condition that the type of this product was correctly selected.

It should also be understood that the use of such details allows not only to equalize the thickness of the box and walls, but also beautifully decorate the doorway itself.

Kinds

Today, there are three main types of door extensions:

  • Standard or regular It is a regular rail, which can be finished with veneer, or maybe without it. This is the simplest version of this product, which, if necessary, can be easily and quickly made independently. The standard width of this type is from 100 to 200 mm.
  • Telescopic dobor is an improved version of the previous version. The difference lies in the obvious similarity with the lining. Each element of such an extension is assembled like a puzzle, due to the presence, on the one hand, of a special groove, and on the other, a small spike. It is this design that allows you to beautifully decorate a door of any size. The width of the telescopic dobor varies from 90 to 150 mm.
  • Combined supplement got its name not only because it allows you to equalize the thickness of the door frame and the wall, but also plays the role of a casing. In appearance, it is a corner with ends for fastening. He himself is directly connected with the door structure, namely the box.

How to choose?

Despite the fact that there are not so many varieties of this product, it is often difficult for ordinary people to choose the most suitable type.

In order not to be disappointed in the purchase and so that there are no difficulties during the installation of the add-on, some nuances should be taken into account:

  • It is necessary to determine the width of the extension itself. In order for this indicator to be accurate, measurements should be taken at several points on the top of the door itself, on the right and left sides.
  • The length of the extension should be slightly larger than the length of the gap itself. Extra centimeters, if necessary, can be removed in a few seconds.
  • If the installation of these parts will be carried out independently, then all necessary details, including the extensions themselves, should be purchased with a small margin. This is necessary so that in case of any malfunctions, you can immediately complete the installation correctly, and not quit your job and run back to the store.
  • You should choose extras in the same color scheme, as the box itself and the door leaf. It would be even better if they not only have the same color, but are also made of similar materials.
  • When choosing extensions for interior doors and steel entrance panels, you should follow the same recommendations. The selection will be the same, but the installation will be slightly different.
  • Extras are a product that is not worth saving on. Not only the general appearance of the doorway, but also the duration of the high-quality operation of the door itself will depend on its quality.

How to count?

Before you go to the store and choose the right add-ons, you need to correctly calculate the required number of them. In order to avoid having to run after the missing part again during the installation process, or, conversely, to throw out the leftovers, you should correctly calculate their required number.

First you need to decide that the height of the extensions comes from the height of the doors. Speaking of door panels standard size, then their height is 2000 m, the height of the addition in this case will be similar. But more attention should be paid to the width of these products, which can vary in the range of 50-500 mm. Their height can also be different.

To avoid a wrong purchase, the calculation required amount additions and their sizes should be performed in several stages:

  • It is necessary to make sure that there is a special groove in the box of the future door leaf, into which the extension will be installed. This is very important point, because it is worth considering that the component product will be inserted into it, which means it will decrease in size.
  • Armed with a tape measure, you should put it in the place where it comes into contact with the box. It is necessary to note the resulting distance, it will indicate the edge of the wall. It is worth remembering that the walls in any room are almost never even, so measurements should be taken several times, both from right to left and vice versa. But measure the right one only at the top.
  • The base of the size of the future addition will be the widest distance. If it is a little wider, it can easily be narrowed to the desired width.

If the measurements were taken at the time when old box has not yet been dismantled, in the store, when buying a box of extensions, it is necessary to subtract the width of the acquired door structure from the obtained value.

It can be assumed that the width of the wall is 200 mm, and the purchased box has a width of 75 mm. It turns out that the additional board should have a width of 125 mm. It is still better to purchase an extension with a width of 200 mm, and cut off everything that will be superfluous during installation.

Installation

After all the measurements have been made, and the necessary components and tools have been purchased, you can begin to install the extensions with your own hands. At the same time, they need to be mounted a little differently, depending on their type of addition.

Ordinary

Here, too, there is a slight division. There are extensions with a groove, and there are without it. Each case has its own nuances.

First you need to qualitatively and reliably install and secure the door unit, and only after that proceed directly to the installation:

  • In the event that the box has a groove for adding, it must be thoroughly cleaned of any internal dirt and debris, as they may affect the smooth installation of the product.
  • Now the upper bar is inserted for preliminary evaluation, and the necessary marks are made, which are then connected in a line. In accordance with the markup, the board and side extensions are cut.
  • Now these components are inserted into the groove, aligned and carefully filled with mounting foam from above.
  • If there are no grooves for extensions, then they can be attached directly to the bars that are fixed to the wall. The elements of the extensions are fixed with self-tapping screws to the bars at the same distance. Then the rail is stuffed, but only from the outside, and the extensions themselves are attached to it.

Perhaps the description of such a procedure is a little incomprehensible, but when you start using these tips in practice, you can easily see the opposite.

Telescopic

This procedure does not have any significant differences in performance. The only thing is that it will be necessary to increase the extras gradually, and not immediately, as in the first option. And yet, such a procedure will take more time, because each next plank can be laid only after the mounting foam has completely dried on the previous extension.

The technology of work will be as follows:

  • Cleaning the groove from internal dirt.
  • The first bar is inserted into the fitting groove and the correct marking is carried out.
  • Parts are cut to size to fit.
  • Now the first dobor is inserted into the groove and filled with mounting foam.
  • After the foam dries, repeat the fourth step until all the extensions are installed.

Some people, in order to save time, first connect all the additional strips to each other, and then I completely mount the shield into the groove. This is not recommended unless you are a professional builder.

Otherwise, gaps will appear between the planks, which will have to be eliminated by redoing the entire work.

Combined

Sheathing a door with the help of such components is the easiest. They do not need to be fixed using mounting foam. All that is needed is to drive the strips into the sinuses of the box. But this must be done starting from the top of the door structure, adjusting the tightness of the connection on the sidewalls of the joints.

By and large, the installation of such components in practice takes no more than half an hour in the absence of proper skills and no more than 15 minutes with the already existing experience in performing such work.

The main thing is to prepare everything necessary materials and tools in advance, and follow the instructions carefully.

What to install instead of add-ons?

Some people believe, unfortunately, that putting up an additional bar is much more troublesome than trying to mask the gap in other ways. Today there are several analogues of this product:

  • Putty or wallpaper. Sometimes it is with their help that they try to hide this very gap. About 10 years ago, this would have been the only way, but today it is not acceptable. First, sooner or later the gap will still become visible. And secondly, this design does not look aesthetically pleasing and can visually spoil even the most expensive and stylish door.
  • Ordinary platbands, which are often installed on plastic windows and doors. But this option is more suitable for decorating street windows. Such a replacement visually spoils the appearance, and besides, it creates the impression of being on the street.