Mixer      06/20/2020

How to cut the slopes of plastic windows. Window slopes made of PVC panels: the experience of the Homius reader. We clean everything - we bring beauty

Today, many construction companies are moving to the use of new technologies and new standards. In all new buildings, only plastic windows are installed, windows are also changed in all houses. It is worth knowing that after the windows are installed, you have to make slopes. They can be made from any material, but drywall and plastic are the most commonly used.

Foam is not thermal insulation, it must also be used Additional materials, they will be able to protect the windows from cooling.

Types of slopes for windows

The most commonly used plaster slopes, plasterboard and plastic.

Plaster slopes were popular in the old days. In fact, they have more disadvantages than advantages. First of all, they can lose their color, if the house sags, then the plaster will definitely move away from the wall. Such slopes are quite laborious, because their installation takes several days.

The plaster is applied in several layers, and each layer dries for a rather long time. Then the layers are primed and painted. In addition, such slopes do not provide protection from temperature changes, the windows will sweat.

slopes plasterboard are more durable, they have excellent thermal insulation, but at the same time they are afraid of moisture, that is, they are best installed in rooms where thermal insulation is provided. However, this option requires good specialist besides, then it still needs a primer and painting.

The most universal is considered plastic slopes. They are very practical, do not fade and care for them is quite easy. Plastic is durable and can last more than fifteen years. Such plastic will be in perfect harmony with the window, if you choose the right shade. Plastic is quite easy to mount, if you study the technology itself, then there is always the opportunity to do this work yourself.

As an option, plastic sandwich panels are often used. They are matched to the frame and can be matte or glossy.

Installation of slopes from sandwich panels

The profile for fastening slopes is made of sandwich panels whose thickness is not more than 1 cm. The profile is attached to the opening, and any options can be used, most often fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws and dowels. In some versions, fastening with galvanized iron brackets with a thickness of not more than 1 mm is used. The bracket is attached to the wall and to the slope with foam. The brackets are connected to each other by means of self-tapping screws.

If it is supposed to design the window with integral PVC or drywall, then you can give it any shape. Integral PVC is able to bend at any angle, while special cuts are made. The incisions are fixed with a special adhesive. In fact, the installation is done in the same way as the installation of sandwich panels, using self-tapping screws, dowels and a profile.

Sandwich panels are fastened in a certain sequence:

  • along the perimeter of the entire opening, guides are attached using self-tapping screws of the appropriate size,
  • holes in the wall for guides are made using a drill or puncher. It should be ensured that they are attached completely evenly, it is better to control the process with a level,
  • the plastic panel should be adjusted in size so that it clearly fits into the guides,
  • excess panels are cut off according to the depth of the slope and the empty spaces are filled with sealant and sealed with special masking tape until completely dry,
  • after the sealant dries, decorative plastic corners are installed.
  • Useful. What are the best blinds for your home? Let's try to break it down together:

    Tools and materials

    To install conventional plastic slopes required the following materials and tools:

    • six-meter strip of plastic 8 mm thick,
    • start line,
    • strip F-ka, that is, a strip of plastic of a special shape,
    • rail 15 mm thick,
    • level,
    • staples and stapler
    • white silicone,
    • perforator,
    • mineral wool,
    • metal scissors,
    • self-tapping screws.
    • Useful. During operation plastic windows may need to be adjusted - more on that.

      Stages of installation of slopes

      Installation is carried out in several stages. Initially, wooden slats are recruited, the main thing is that the lights do not protrude. The slats are attached to the wall with a perforator. For leveling, you can use wooden blocks. At the same time, ideality at the joints is not so necessary.

      A starting strip is nailed along the edge of the plastic window. It is important that a strip of plastic will be attached to the groove of the starting strip. If you didn’t have wallpaper pasted over, then you can tear off the film and glue it, because the dirty work will be finished. Before stuffing the F-ki, it is important to cut it correctly.

      After the strip is stuffed, an overlap will remain, which is removed with metal scissors. It is attached with a stapler to a wooden rail. On last step plastic is attached and the wall is immediately insulated.

      The plastic is attached, and cotton wool is put in front of it, everything will turn out tightly and beautifully. If even and beautiful corners do not work out, then they can always be rubbed with white silicone.

Making slopes for plastic windows with your own hands does not present any particular difficulties. To work, you do not need professional tools and special skills. But it must be taken into account that there are various situations that require right choice finishing material. In addition, there are a sufficient number of options for this kind of work. They should be considered in more detail.

When is slope work performed?

There are various reasons that require the installation of slopes for plastic windows:

  1. Facing after installation of new structures. This is the most common case, which involves fairly large-scale work.
  2. Repair work - necessary in the event of various damages during operation.
  3. Replacing the cladding when it needs to be updated general form interior or coating has become unusable.
  4. The appearance of fungus and mold. This is the most unpleasant situation in which you have to change the slopes. The fact is that it is not always possible to clean the old material, which necessitates a complete replacement.

The appearance of a fungus is a significant reason to think about replacing slopes.

On a note! It is advisable to take into account that before performing any work, you need to decide on the finish option. After all, it is not always necessary to carry out numerous activities, sometimes simple restorative procedures are enough.

What materials are used for work?

Finishing the slopes of plastic windows is carried out with various materials. Initially, all types finishing works carried out exclusively with the help of plaster mixtures. Although, mainly in wooden houses, there was an option using wooden panels (wide boards). The development of technology has led to the fact that new varieties of products have appeared that have become widely used for such work.

The following modern types of slopes can be distinguished:

  1. Plates GKL. This is a great solution, especially when running general work on plasterboard surfaces. In this case, it is possible to create a common frame that allows you to complete the work much faster.
  2. Plastic panels for walls. This option is used quite often, because do-it-yourself PVC can be installed quite quickly, without any noticeable effort.
  3. MDF panels. This method is not used very often window openings. The fact is that given material not very suitable for slopes on plastic windows. The problem is that it is difficult to achieve the right combination.
  4. Sandwich panels. It is safe to say that this type of product is only gaining its popularity. The difficulties lie in the fact that the price of the material is much higher than that of simple panels.

Options for finishing the slopes of plastic windows

It should be borne in mind that the decoration of plastic windows inside with your own hands can be done by combining various products. For example, a method when polystyrene and putty (plaster) are used simultaneously is considered an excellent and rather cheap option.

Possible problems

Exist different requirements how to properly make slopes on plastic windows. It should be borne in mind that all work needs extreme accuracy and the implementation of some nuances. If existing technologies are ignored, the following problems may arise:

  • Violation of the heat exchange of the room. Cold will begin to penetrate from the street, and heat will come out. The room will be very uncomfortable. This situation occurs for two reasons:
    • Incorrectly performed preparatory work.
    • Thermal insulation laying was carried out with violations or is simply missing.
  • The appearance of fungus and mold. Such a nuisance is especially often manifested when plastic materials. The fact is that these products do not “breathe”. But the reason lies in improper sealing.
  • Destruction or flaking of areas. Often this happens with plaster coatings. The problem arises due to a violation of the preparatory work and ignoring the technology of applying the composition.
  • Curvature and numerous gaps. This happens due to the fact that measuring work and installation of slopes were carried out incorrectly.

On a note! It must be borne in mind that it is possible to veneer plastic windows with your own hands only when they are installed correctly.

Different working methods depending on the situation

How to make slopes on plastic windows? It all depends on the specific situation. Various options should be considered.

Facing after installation of new structures

Interior decoration begins with preparation, which includes the following steps:

  1. All damaged areas are removed. If there is a collapse of the plaster, then it is advisable to remove everything to the ground. This will avoid unnecessary problems.
  2. The foam is cut off. This is done along with window frame. The spacer wedges are removed and empty areas are sealed.
  3. A layer of soil is applied with antiseptic additives.
  4. All defects are smeared with a prepared solution. Very carefully you need to approach deep cracks.
  5. The surface should dry well, after which the last coat of primer is applied, and all joints are sealed.

Stages of preparation of slopes before facing

Installation of plastic material

Work on the installation of slopes for plastic windows can be carried out according to different technologies. Sandwich panels and PVC wall panels can be used for cladding. They install pretty quickly. Fixing can be done in two ways: frame or frameless.

Installed plastic slopes on the windows - practically do not require maintenance, so this is the most preferred option for any situation.

This procedure allows you to perform work in such a way that an empty space is obtained, which is used for laying a layer of insulation. This option is especially relevant in the case of a large assembly seam.

The following technology is applied:


On a note! To obtain beautiful coverage, it is advisable to cut the timber at an angle using a planer. This will make it possible to set the slopes at the desired angle.

Installation of PVC starting profile

  • An empty space is obtained between the two bars. It is filled with insulation.
  • Everything is filmed the right dimensions. A diagram of all the details is drawn up. The obtained parameters are transferred to the material. Details are cut with electric jigsaw or hand saw for metal.
  • Installation of slopes on windows begins with the fact that each part is inserted into the groove of the starting profile. On the outer edge, fixation occurs with glue or staples.

Fixing a plastic slope

  • Joints appear between the elements, which are smeared with sealant.
  • Next comes the finishing of the outer perimeter. For this, overhead plastic corners are used. They are cut to size.

Installation of decorative corners

But how to install parts without erecting a frame? This option is used if the mounting seam is thin enough.

The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

  • The surface is being prepared.
  • All sizes are taken. Details are cut out.
  • On wrong side panels are applied with mounting foam. The layer should not be very thick, because it expands quickly.
  • The fragments are pressed against the selected area and torn off for a few minutes. This is necessary so that the adhesive expands a little.
  • Now every detail is put in its place. Everything is fixed with masking tape.
  • After drying, the outer and internal corners lined with overlay corners.

Installation of slopes on glue requires high-quality preparation of the base

On a note! If the task arises: how to make slopes from GCR boards, then its solution will be the same as in the case of plastic panels. That is, the above technologies are completely repeated.

Replacement for the purpose of updating the interior or repair

Sooner or later, it becomes necessary to update the overall look of the interior. It was then that the slopes on the plastic windows were replaced. Also, the slopes need to be replaced if cosmetic work was carried out in the room, which led to damage to the coating.

Removing the old layer of plaster and applying a new one

The procedure requires some experience. The fact is that it is necessary to use plaster on such surfaces very carefully in order to achieve perfect evenness. Any defects will immediately become visible, because a sufficient amount of light enters such areas.

  1. goes astray old layer. It is advisable to remove all material to obtain an open base.

Removing the old finish

  • Dust is removed and dirt is removed. Such a finish internal slopes assumes that everything will be impregnated with a primer.
  • The required amount of solution is prepared. Beacons are set up immediately. For greater effect and simplification of work - a guide rail is placed.

On a note! Correctly placed wooden beam is the key to success. It is necessary in order to determine the thickness of the layer and the level of slope. Therefore, it is placed along the outer edge of the window opening so that it protrudes beyond the edge as much as it is supposed to apply the composition. The rail must be attached around the entire perimeter in order to obtain a single level.

Performing slope plastering


Plastic window slopes: self-installation - 2 ways

After installing plastic windows, the window opening does not look the best: foam sticks out, pieces of plaster stick out, wall material is visible in places. Closes all this "beauty" different ways, the most practical, fast and inexpensive of which are plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic, between which is foamed polypropylene). They are dense, durable, made of good material.

There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with and without a starting profile. Both are given from step by step instructions and photo. Decide for yourself how to fix slopes on plastic windows. Both methods give good results.

Photo report 1: installation of slopes from sandwich panels without starting profiles

This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the opening wall is too small. In this case, installation with a start profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually on the hinge side - not possible at all.

After installing the plastic window, such a picture was observed.

The device of slopes of plastic windows begins with the preparation of the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a clerical knife. It is cut off easily, just don't overdo it, cut it flush, but don't cut it out - the foam both holds and insulates the frame. Pieces of plaster that interfere and protrude are also removed. If they hold well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - less foam will slip.

Then, along the perimeter of the window, we nail (we put on dowels if the wall is concrete) a thin rail - 10 * 40 mm - with the wide side to the slope.

Rail nailed around the perimeter

Usually it is not leveled, it is nailed as is, but if you want, you can set it straight by placing pieces of plywood, thin planks, etc. in the right places.

Groove for plastic sandwich panel

Now you need to properly cut the plastic panels. Can be done as standard: using measurements, you can make a stencil. With a stencil, it seems to be easier. Take a sheet of paper, larger than your window (I had old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, squeeze, bending the excess. Cut along curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.

It is more convenient to start with the upper part of the opening. Having made a paper stencil, we outline it on plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the groove of the foam, we add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. We cut it out with a small margin - it’s easier to cut off than to cover up later.

We cut with a hacksaw with a metal blade, try on, adjust so that the plastic stands up evenly, without bending. Align so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost even, where necessary, we work with a file.

Inserted plastic top

Having removed the tried and fitted strip, along the outer edge, which will be nailed to the bar, we drill holes along the thickness of the studs, stepping back about 0.5 cm from the edge. So it will be easier to fasten and do not damage the plastic.

We put it back in place, take a balloon with polyurethane foam and fill the gap with foam with short “puffs”. We try to get as deep as possible, but we don’t pour a lot: if it swells up, it can warp the plastic.

Fill it out like this

There are several points when working with mounting foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not adhere very well to it. To improve it, or treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, or / and prime it with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: for the normal polymerization of the foam, moisture is needed. Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it is swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is pre-treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.

After we lift the panel, pressing down the foam, we insert the studs into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.

Fixed upper plastic panel on the window slope

Using the same technology - we cut out a paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out a plastic sidewall. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal. To do this, the edge will have to be processed sandpaper. To make the edge even it was easier, it is more convenient to process it with sandpaper attached to a flat bar, a file or a whetstone (half a circle, as in the photo).

Finishing the edge of the plastic panel

We adjust to the ideal (as far as possible) match at the top and bottom, put it in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge on the same level with the wall plaster. You can do this with a clerical knife on the spot, or you can put a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch it with something sharp) and then refine it with what is convenient.

Having removed, along the outer edge we also drill holes for cloves. We install the panel in place, take the foam, and fill the gap from bottom to top. Too much foam and here - not good, because the plastic can bend. Therefore, we fill in short portions, trying to fill as deep as possible.

On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: on the panel ready for installation, along the far edge, which starts under the frame, apply foam before installation. The strip is made solid or applied with a small snake. Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut groove, set as needed, the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to moisten the wall before installation). Having filled, press, level, fix with carnations into the bar.

The upper and lower joints are fixed with masking tape until the foam polymerizes.

So that during the polymerization process the foam does not move the edges of the slope, the joint is glued with masking tape at the top and bottom. No matter how hard you try to fit the plastic evenly, gaps, albeit small, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in tubes such as mounting foam, placed in the same mounting gun.

Squeeze the strip into the slot, rub it, level it, remove the excess with a damp soft cloth or sponge. You need to do this operation in small areas and wipe it gently - clean. As long as the acrylic has not hardened, it cleans up well. Then - with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start sealing cracks from above - immediately - horizontal panel slope, then joints, then move down first on one side, then on the other. The last to cover up the joints with the window sill.

After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), acrylic can be drawn into the seam - this is if the gaps are large. All these places go through the second time according to the same method. After the second layer dries, if there are roughness and irregularities, they can be leveled with fine-grained sandpaper, folding it in half. In general, it is better to carefully align while damp, otherwise you can scratch the plastic.

Installed plastic slopes

Everything, plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be puttied, leveled with the surface of the walls. After that, you can remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.

Window with slopes made of plastic (sandchich-panels)

When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of foamed foam. Using the same technology, you can make window frames from inexpensive plastic window sills or white PVC wall panels. The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are quite easily pressed through, to besides, e If the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then jumpers are visible in the light. in sandwich panels and plastic window sills there is no such. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and even there are no jumpers to the clearance.

Photo report 2: we mount plastic slopes with a starting profile

The installation of plastic slopes and according to this technology begins with the preparation of a window opening. We cut exactly the foam, remove everything that does not hold well, clean off the dust, if necessary, we pass along the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.

Window opening preparation

Along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame, fasten wooden block. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost go on the frame. One side of the bar must be worked out with a planer, making a slope. The slope angle of this face equal to the angle slope settings. You can saw off, but it’s even more difficult to make, except that there is a circular saw with adjustable angle.

We make a slope on one of the faces of the bar

We fasten the processed bar to the walls along the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the material of the wall. If the wall is brick, you can try on self-tapping screws, you need to put dowels in concrete.

You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the bar, fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with staples from a construction stapler, if there is none, you can use small cloves or self-tapping screws with flat heads.

We fix the starting profile

When choosing a starting profile, take a tight one. It is more expensive, but you only care about three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold plastic well, a soft one will bend and look ugly. Another point - when mounting the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all, or they are minimal.

At the top, when joining the vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them off exactly at an angle of 45 °. If there are small gaps, they can be repaired with acrylic.

Installed start profile

According to this technology, it is more convenient to start the installation of reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed start profile. They are also better to take from expensive and dense, with a thick layer of plastic. If you put cheap ones (ceiling ones), then the front wall is thin, and jumpers will be visible in bright light. In addition, such plastic can be pushed through even with a finger.

We insert a plastic panel into the profile

The width of the plastic panel should be greater than the slope. If one is not wide enough, two are joined. But then, at the junction, an additional vertical bar will be needed, to which the first strip will be fixed.

The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the opening line. After removing, cut off along the marked line.

Cut to size

We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with mounting foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make it happen, we start from the far lower corner - we draw from the bottom up near the nailed bar. While we reached the top, the bottom of the foam expanded a little. Again we draw a line with foam, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the tracks thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should be. Align and check. Attach to the wall with masking tape. Also install the second part and then the top. It can also be cut out according to a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match with sandpaper.

Installed plastic window slopes

Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued to the liquid nails. The main task is to cut exactly at the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue on both shelves of the corner, press it, passing your hand along it, hold for a couple of minutes. So they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, until the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.

Installed corners along the perimeter of the slope

After a day, we remove the adhesive tape, the plastic slopes are ready.

It looks like a window with installed plastic slopes

If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light, it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two, your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it.

Plastic slopes on windows: do-it-yourself installation, two ways


If you have installed PVC windows, it makes sense to make plastic slopes. They will have the same performance characteristics, thermal expansion, the look will turn out to be logical, the quality will be excellent.

Installation guide for plastic window slopes

After the window is installed, it remains to finish the slopes on the plastic windows. PVC elements perform not only decorative, but also important protective functions. You can install plastic slopes on the windows with your own hands. How to install plastic slopes will be described below.

What are they needed for

A plastic trim device is the most common way to ennoble the space of a window opening. PVC slopes have a pleasant glossy surface and are combined with the material window profile. Plastic panels allow you to protect the mounting seam from exposure to sunlight and moisture.

Finishing the slopes after installing the window is performed using plastic

Mounting foam, with which the window system is fixed in the opening, is a water-repellent material. But if it is not protected from exposure to direct sunlight, then it will begin to break down and moisture will freely begin to penetrate into its pores, destroying it from the inside. Therefore, slopes for plastic windows must be installed as soon as possible after installing the window..

Properties of plastic slopes

Slopes for plastic windows can be made of two types of material - these can be window slopes made of PVC panels or sandwich panels.

The slope serves as a protection of the mounting foam from destruction

Both types of plastic panels are characterized by common positive qualities:

  • long service life;
  • plastic slopes for windows have a decorative appearance and are combined with the material from which the window system is made;
  • finishing window slopes inside with plastic allows you to reliably protect the mounting foam from environmental influences;
  • installation of plastic slopes is possible for finishing arched openings, as flexible PVC trim can be used;
  • you can install PVC panels with your own hands, without professional skills and special expensive equipment;
  • plastic panels for slopes can be cut with a hacksaw, but this must be done carefully, without effort, so that the PVC panel does not crack;
  • do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows occurs quickly and without the formation of serious pollution and construction debris;
  • it is easy to care for PVC panels - it is enough to wipe them sometimes with a cloth dipped in soapy water;
  • they have low thermal conductivity;
  • plastic window element has high moisture resistance;
  • Finishing the slopes of plastic windows will reliably protect them from freezing.

PVC panel products

Before installing plastic slopes with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the qualities of the material that is used to make them. One of them can be a PVC panel.

Material Description

Another name for this material is ceiling panels. They are made from polyvinyl chloride.

They consist of two plastic plates with stiffening ribs inside. Some models have interlock connections at the ends.

Panels may have different sizes, but during installation they will still have to be cut in accordance with the required dimensions. While the panels can be 3 and 6 meters long, 6 meter products should be purchased. The thickness of the panels varies from 0.5 to 1.2 cm. The type of products can also be different: panels, rails or PVC sheets.

Also purchase accessories for plastic panels. The kit should include fasteners and plastic elements. Their description is shown in the figure below.

Accessories for plastic panels

One of the advantages of any plastic panels is their wide range of colors. Colored PVC slopes can be chosen for any interior.

The color of finishing plastic can be chosen for any interior

The interior decoration will look original when sheathing window openings with plastic panels with an image or imitation of any natural and artificial material. When the windows are colored or brown, dyed products can be used. It is important that in this case window fittings are combined with them..

PVC panels can imitate a wooden surface

The panels can be plain, laminated, lacquered, have a printed pattern or an image applied by thermal printing on their surface. Installing plastic slopes will give the windows a neat decorative appearance.

Positive qualities of the material

Do-it-yourself high-quality finishing of slopes with plastic is obtained due to the properties of the ceiling panels.

  • the material is non-toxic;
  • have high moisture resistance;
  • they are easy to install and maintain;
  • have a small weight, so they do not create a load on the base;
  • plastic is a non-combustible material, but when melted, it emits toxic acrid smoke;

products are resistant to temperature changes;

  • have frost resistance;
  • create an ideal flat rigidly fixed surface;
  • have modern look and suitable for any interiors;
  • honeycomb structure provides reliable sound insulation;
  • do not accumulate static electricity on their surface;
  • panels are resistant to household chemicals.

How to install plastic slopes on windows with your own hands in stages is shown below. Before you start finishing the slopes with panels, you need to make measurements. The inner sides are measured twice - at the window and at the wall.

  • the installation of plastic slopes on windows begins with the removal of mounting foam that has gone beyond the seam along the perimeter of the window frame. To do this, you need to use a sharp construction knife;

Before installing slopes, remove excess foam

  • along the perimeter of the window frame it will be necessary to fasten a wooden block. In the manufacture of a bar, it is necessary to perform a slope on one of its faces. This is done so that the bar can be firmly fixed near the window frame;

To fix the slope, a wooden block with a slope is made

  • finished bars should be installed around the perimeter of the window frame in such a way as to go a little on it. Fastening can be done using self-tapping screws or dowels;

The bar is fixed with self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the frame

  • a plastic bar, called the start profile, is purchased from hardware store. Using a construction stapler or self-tapping screws, attach it around the perimeter of the window to a wooden bar;

A starting profile is mounted to a wooden block

  • according to previously obtained sizes we produce necessary elements. We cut the plastic carefully so as not to damage;

Cutting the PVC panel must be done without strong pressure.

  • panels must first be installed on the side walls of the window opening. Panels must be placed in the start profile;

The panel is inserted into the start profile

  • the part must be separated from the wall and covered with mounting foam. Then put it in place and press down a little so that the foam grabs;

PVC panel is fixed with mounting foam

  • in this way it is necessary to finish the entire window opening;
  • in order to properly make plastic slopes, decorative corners are attached to the finished fragments. Ready product fixed with masking tape until completely set.

The slopes are fixed with masking tape until the foam is completely dry.

By installing slopes on plastic windows, platbands can be fixed at their corners.

Scheme of installation of a slope with a platband Installation of a slope with a platband

Sandwich panel products

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic slopes can be carried out using a multilayer material coated on both sides with decorative plastic. By installing plastic slopes with your own hands using sandwich panels, you can not produce additional thermal insulation.

Sandwich panels have high thermal insulation properties

Installation PVC slopes when using this material happens quickly and with the minimum amount garbage. The use of slopes made of pvc panels of this type ensures the protection of the window from freezing.

Sandwich panels have the following characteristics:

  • PVC provides reliable heat and sound insulation;
  • finishing window slopes with this material increases energy efficiency window system generally;
  • if you correctly make slopes from the panels with your own hands, then the window opening will acquire a neat appearance;
  • do-it-yourself window decoration with plastic is carried out quickly and efficiently;
  • even an unprepared person can make slopes from plastic with insulation.

The sandwich panel can be attached in the same way as pvc panel. How to make such a finish yourself is shown below.

Slope with sandwich panels

How to trim window slopes with plastic without a starting profile is shown step by step below.

  • this installation method is relevant at a small distance from the frame to the opening, when there is simply nowhere to mount the starting profile;
  • excess foam is carefully removed. A thin rail is attached to all sides of the opening;

in this case, the panel is installed in 1 cm foam, so the latter is cut accordingly along the entire perimeter;

Installation of sandwich panels is carried out in a groove in the mounting foam

  • first, the upper part is inserted into the resulting groove. It bends a little, and the resulting space is covered with a small amount of mounting foam;

the panel is fastened with screws to the rail;

Sandwich panel is fixed with self-tapping screws

  • the side fragments are mounted in the same way.

Do-it-yourself plastic slopes for windows: step by step instructions


How to make plastic slopes for windows from PVC panels. Dimensions, cutting, installation on foam, fastening of architraves and corners, finishing, accessories.

Device and installation of slopes for plastic windows

What are the slopes

Over the past two decades, the technology for installing plastic windows has been worked out to the smallest detail. The advantage of plastic over other materials has long been beyond doubt. Wherein Special attention given to the installation of slopes. Slopes for plastic windows are a must. According to established terminology, slopes are called the surface of the walls around plastic frame- top, bottom and sides. Depending on their location, they are external and internal. Particular attention is paid to the finishing of internal slopes, since they carry a functional and aesthetic load.

You need to know that heat leaks through the junction of the window frame and the wall. Mounting foam, which is used when installing a window, if it is not protected from external influences, accumulates moisture and collapses. This is followed by other negative consequences - fogging of the double-glazed window, the appearance of mold, deterioration of sound insulation. Slopes for windows perform a complex function - protection and decoration. Their installation is ordered simultaneously with the installation of the window, or they perform these works independently.

In practice, for plastic windows, slopes made of various materials. Including:

  • from sand-cement mortar;
  • from drywall;
  • from plastic;
  • from foam;
  • from a sandwich panel;
  • from decorative materials.

When choosing one or another option, you need to take into account the peculiarity of the building in which the work is carried out. It is one thing when a window is installed in a new, brick or panel building that has just been built. Preparatory work in this case is not required. Others when the plastic window is inserted to replace wooden frame in a house that is many years old.

As a rule, the dimensions of the old window are larger than the new, plastic ones. Before installation, it is necessary to remove the remains of plaster and insulation from the window opening. Cut off the old concrete. Not a trace should remain of the old slopes. The plastic window is fastened with brackets to the wall, and the openings formed along the perimeter are filled with mounting foam. In a wooden house, the same list of works is performed. But the slopes of the plaster in such houses are not used.

Installation of slopes on plastic windows

From how well the window slopes will be installed, the comfortable atmosphere will be in the room. Plus, windows are an element of interior design. Choosing a certain material, it is necessary to prepare materials, tools and all components. In this case, the installation of slopes on plastic windows will be performed efficiently.

Plastering and painting

The easiest way to finish the slopes of plastic windows is to rub the surface with a sand-cement mortar for plaster. If the owner of the apartment has the skills of finishing work, then he will not face any difficulties. Before finishing the slopes, the walls in the room must be plastered. As a beacon, you need to fix wooden slats around the perimeter of the window opening. The top rail must be strictly horizontal and flush with the slope plane. The horizontal position is checked using a simple carpenter's spirit level.

Side rails are mounted on the wall flush with the slope plane and aligned vertically. You can prepare a solution from a dry mix, which is sold in a building materials store. Cooking instructions are on the package. If the composition of the mixture includes gypsum, then it must be worked out quickly, within half an hour. When you have to prepare a solution of sand and cement, you need to knead it in a ratio of 3/2. Three shares of cement and two sand. The solution should have the consistency of thick sour cream.

Wet finishing processes require time and strict adherence to technology. The next layer of plaster is applied only after the previous one has dried. At the same time, one must be aware that cracks may form on the surface during final drying. They need to be puttied and then covered with a primer. Paint is applied to the primed surface, and the window opening gets a complete look. It should be noted that the arrangement of such slopes does not improve the thermal insulation of the window block. In winter, frost can form on the windows.

Finishing slopes with drywall

Drywall slopes are much faster. It is important to emphasize that this material can be used in rooms with low humidity. Moisture-resistant grades of this material are on sale. When installing them, you can use foam insulation or mineral wool. The installation of drywall slopes also requires certain skills and dexterity. The design of many window blocks has a special profile around the perimeter, which is designed to fix the finishing panel.

If there is no such profile, then along the edges of the window block, you need to fix an L-shaped plastic corner on the screws. Then blanks are cut from a drywall sheet according to pre-prepared sizes. There should be three of them - one top and two side. The profile is filled with sealant, after which the slope panel is inserted into it. A layer of glue is applied to the opposite edge of the panel, with which it is attached to the wall. The junction must be even and strictly vertical.

The volume that forms between the wall and the panel is filled with insulation. It can be mineral wool or foam board. The panel is fixed in the same way on the other side. Then the top panel is attached. For reliability, the panels are fixed with nails around the perimeter after 35-40 cm.

At the end of the work, you need to install corners on the cuts for strength. Irregularities are puttied, and the surface is polished.

Finishing slopes with plastic

Plastic slopes are considered the most technologically advanced. In color and texture, they harmonize best with the window block. Any man whose hands grow from the right place can install them. First you need to prepare the slope surfaces. Remove excess foam and other foreign objects. Then, a starting profile is attached around the perimeter of the window block. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws through a gap of 20 cm. After that, a crate is mounted from a bar with a section of 20x40 mm.

The crate is attached to the corner of the slope with dowels after 30-40 cm. After that, the top panel is mounted. To do this, one of its edges is inserted into the starting profile, and the other is fastened with screws to the crate. Side panels are installed in the same way. The next step is to install the trim. PVC F-profile is used as a casing.

When installing, make sure that the trim fits snugly against the panel. At the end of the installation, it is necessary to treat all joints with white sealant so that dust and moisture do not get into them.

Styrofoam slopes

The technology for installing window slopes made of polystyrene foam is practically the same as how slopes from other materials are mounted. As positive parameters of the slope of the foam can be called its long period of operation, a high degree of thermal insulation, manufacturability in processing. Finishing windows with foam plastic begins with cutting the material. Parts are glued together. To enhance the strength of the foam, the workpieces are reinforced with fiberglass.

The sequence of operations includes: priming the surface, applying glue to it, installing the slope elements in their place. The installation accuracy is controlled vertically and horizontally using a spirit level. The joints between the parts must be glued. The next step is to apply putty to the surface of the slope. Then the surface of the foam is primed and painted. Everything, the slopes are installed.

Conclusion

Finishing slopes for plastic windows can be done with sandwich panels. These panels are made of plastic and in terms of their performance are close to the material from which the windows are made. Structurally, the device of plastic sandwiches is made in such a way that they have increased strength and rigidity compared to a plastic sheet. The device and installation sequence of such slopes are exactly the same as when using drywall.

Among the decorative materials that are used to finish plastic windows are noble types of wood, artificial and natural finishing stone. Windows are rarely made with such materials. Oak, hornbeam, cedar have a high cost. Just like artificial marble or granite. They are used to decorate plastic windows according to individual projects. The arrangement of such decorations requires high skill and is rarely used in typical apartments.

Do-it-yourself slopes for plastic windows


Slopes for plastic windows require certain qualifications and skills from the master. Window trim is made from various materials.

Replacing old frames with modern plastic windows is half the task. The next step, which is often forgotten, is the installation of window slopes. Proper execution and finishing of slopes plays an equally important role in warming an apartment as. You can invite a craftsman to carry out the work or save a little on builders and make slopes yourself.

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Types of slopes

The complexity of the work on finishing the slopes depends on the quality of the walls, the accuracy of the craftsmen when working with windows and the selected material for finishing. There are only three basic ways:

  • with subsequent decor (painting or wallpapering);
  • plastic framing;
  • cover .

Slopes are also made of wood - coniferous (most often pine) or valuable species (beech, oak, mahogany). This is a rather laborious method, requiring professional work with wood. Stylish wooden slopes look in expensive interiors, where the rest of the furnishings are also made using wood. Do-it-yourself repairs can be completed if you choose a simpler material for slopes of plastic windows.

Plastic slopes

Plastering and painting slopes

This method of processing slopes is the most economical and simple. The finished dry mix, which is based on gypsum or cement, is mixed with water in the proportion specified by the manufacturer, after which the material is ready for use.

Note!

Before applying the plaster, the surface around the window is cleaned of dust, dirt, sagging or mounting foam.

The seams of corners and slopes are expanded so that the plaster adheres better to the base - brick wall. The wall is plastered first, and only then proceed to the slopes.

Slope installation

Crack sealing

When performing slopes, the tightness of the joints of the wall and window is additionally checked. The found gaps are sealed with mounting foam, you can use tow or felt. Fabric materials processed with a solution of gypsum and fixed around the perimeter of the frame.

2-3 cm should remain to the side parts of the window opening - this gap will be filled with plaster. When the material dries, work can continue. Window slopes do it yourself, although not very quickly, but you can be sure of the quality of each stage of work.

Plastering slopes - the final stage

A little solution is laid in the groove of the slope, leveled, waited for drying and moved on to the next layer. At one time, you can apply 5-7 mm of the solution, then you need to wait for the material to dry completely. Align the layers from bottom to top.

Before applying the plaster, the upper part of the slope is fixed with a horizontal plank of wood - its edge must be perfectly even. Fix the rail to the plaster or nails, exposing the guide along.

Slopes on windows

Advantages of plastic slopes

Installing plastic slopes will take much less time than working with plaster. This option for finishing windows will cost a little more, but there will be less dust and dirt after the slopes are completed, and the process will go faster.

The plastic panels are made of the same material as the window frames. With temperature changes, the slopes and frames expand in the same way, excess stress is not created. There is no need to paint or prepare PVC panels for installation. To eliminate the "consequences" of the repair, a damp cloth is enough, and the entire installation process will take no more than 2 hours.

For slopes, plastics are suitable that are not exposed to the harmful effects of solar radiation and are strong enough, resistant to scratches and impacts. Typically selected sandwich panels with top layer made of plastic, intermediate made of insulating material and lower made of moisture-resistant PVC.

How to make slopes on windows with your own hands video:

Installation of plastic slopes

Previously, fragments are cut out of the panels according to the size of the slopes. The panels are fixed to the cleaned surface with liquid nails". With a rail with a snap-in corner, the plastic is attached in the selected position. Instead of such a design, you can also use simple wooden slats, fixing them at the top and along the sides of the window opening. The panels are attached to the guides with a stapler.

The joints of the walls and slopes are made out with plastic corners. Their purpose is to keep the wallpaper intact on the walls adjacent to the window being designed. It is these parts that are most often damaged by children and pets.

Performing slopes on the windows with your own hands, it is worth observing technological nuances. It is better to choose plastic panels to match the shade of the window, since they do not have to be painted. Before using the panels, the mounting spike is cut off from them. Panels should be cut with a special knife or jigsaw.

Mounting foam may deform during solidification. To prevent this from happening and the slopes remain smooth, they select foam with a minimum expansion coefficient. The slopes must be additionally fixed for 5-10 minutes until the foam "grabs".

Drywall slopes

Do-it-yourself slopes for plastic windows are quite easy to make from drywall. For work, a moisture-resistant material is chosen that will not suffer from accidental raindrops and condensate that accumulates on the glass. An alternative option is to use ordinary drywall, which will additionally be covered with several layers of primer or a special protective compound.

When performing slopes from drywall, they sometimes put window block with profiles on the sides - it will be the basis of the entire structure. Before mounting the block, the profile must be fixed in the window grooves. Then the system will be more reliable and tougher, and installation will be easier.

Installation of plasterboard slopes without a window unit

You can do without ready-made frames by doing all the preparatory work yourself. In this case, you will need a profile in the shape of the letter "L" and fix it along the edges of the frame, creating a base for attaching drywall sheets. The material is cut exactly to size, inconsistencies can later be masked and corrected with plaster. An acrylic-based sealant is applied to the profile, then a drywall sheet is inserted. The distance between the window and the slope is laid with a layer of mineral wool, a layer of glue is applied to the near edges, and using a level, the drywall sheet is carefully pressed against the wall.

Alternative ways to install drywall slopes

It is not necessary to use a profile when making slopes. You can fix drywall:

  • on mounting foam;
  • on glue.

Use metal frames convenient in cases where the surface under the slopes was badly damaged during the installation of windows. Fastening drywall panels to glue or foam is carried out in the same way as fastening to a profile. In this case, the sheets are installed end-to-end or behind the frame, the seams are filled with sealant. After the work is completed, the surface is primed, covered with putty and two layers of paint.

Note!

The corners of the slopes can be covered with decorative corners.

Drywall slopes are not only profitable and easy to install. The surface of the material can be additionally decorated, which allows you to design windows in the style of the entire room. The slopes will not contrast with the design of the room and spoil the impression of the interior.

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After installing plastic windows, the window opening does not look the best: foam sticks out, pieces of plaster stick out, wall material is visible in places. All this “beauty” is closed in various ways, the most practical, quick and inexpensive of which are plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic, between which is foamed polypropylene). They are dense, durable, made of good material.

There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with and without a starting profile. Both are given with step by step instructions and photos. Decide for yourself how to fix slopes on plastic windows. Both methods give good results.

Photo report 1: installation of slopes from sandwich panels without starting profiles

This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the opening wall is too small. In this case, installation with a start profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually on the hinge side - not possible at all.

After installing the plastic window, such a picture was observed.

The device of slopes of plastic windows begins with the preparation of the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a clerical knife. It is cut off easily, just don’t overdo it, cut it flush, and don’t cut it out - the foam both holds and insulates the frame. Pieces of plaster that interfere and protrude are also removed. If they hold well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - less foam will slip.

Then, along the perimeter of the window, we nail (put on dowels if the wall is concrete) a thin rail - 10 * 40 mm - with the wide side to the slope.

Usually it is not leveled, it is nailed as is, but if you want, you can set it straight by placing pieces of plywood, thin planks, etc. in the right places.

Now you need to properly cut the plastic panels. Can be done as standard: using measurements, you can make a stencil. With a stencil, it seems to be easier. Take a sheet of paper, larger than your window (I had old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, squeeze, bending the excess. Cut along curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.

It is more convenient to start with the upper part of the opening. Having made a paper stencil, we outline it on plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the groove of the foam, we add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. We cut it out with a small margin - it’s easier to cut off than to cover up later.

We cut with a hacksaw with a metal blade, try on, adjust so that the plastic stands up evenly, without bending. Align so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost even, where necessary, we work with a file.

Having removed the tried and fitted strip, along the outer edge, which will be nailed to the bar, we drill holes along the thickness of the studs, stepping back about 0.5 cm from the edge. So it will be easier to fasten and do not damage the plastic.

We put it back in place, take a balloon with polyurethane foam and fill the gap with foam with short “puffs”. We try to get as deep as possible, but we don’t pour a lot: if it swells up, it can warp the plastic.

There are several points when working with mounting foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not adhere very well to it. To improve it, or treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, or / and prime it with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: for the normal polymerization of the foam, moisture is needed. Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it is swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is pre-treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.

After we lift the panel, pressing down the foam, we insert the studs into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.

Using the same technology - we cut out a paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out a plastic sidewall. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal. To do this, the edge will have to be processed with sandpaper. To make the edge even it was easier, it is more convenient to process it with sandpaper attached to a flat bar, a file or a whetstone (half a circle, as in the photo).

We adjust to the ideal (as far as possible) match at the top and bottom, put it in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge on the same level with the wall plaster. You can do this with a clerical knife on the spot, or you can put a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch it with something sharp) and then refine it with what is convenient.

Having removed, along the outer edge we also drill holes for cloves. We install the panel in place, take the foam, and fill the gap from bottom to top. Too much foam, and here it’s not good, since the plastic can bend. Therefore, we fill in short portions, trying to fill as deep as possible.

On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: on the panel ready for installation, along the far edge, which starts under the frame, apply foam before installation. The strip is made solid or applied with a small snake. Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut groove, set as needed, the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to moisten the wall before installation). Having filled, press, level, fix with carnations into the bar.

So that during the polymerization process the foam does not move the edges of the slope, the joint is glued with masking tape at the top and bottom. No matter how hard you try to fit the plastic evenly, gaps, albeit small, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in tubes such as mounting foam, placed in the same mounting gun.

Squeeze the strip into the slot, rub it, smooth it out, remove the excess with a damp soft cloth or sponge. You need to do this operation in small areas and wipe it gently - clean. As long as the acrylic has not hardened, it cleans up well. Then, with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start filling cracks from above - immediately - a horizontal slope panel, then joints, then move down, first along one side, then along the other. The last to cover up the joints with the window sill.

After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), acrylic can be drawn into the seam - this is if the gaps are large. All these places go through the second time according to the same method. After the second layer dries, if there are roughness and irregularities, they can be leveled with fine-grained sandpaper, folding it in half. In general, it is better to carefully align while damp, otherwise you can scratch the plastic.

Everything, plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be puttied, leveled with the surface of the walls. After that, you can remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.

When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of foamed foam. Using the same technology, you can make window frames from inexpensive plastic window sills or white PVC wall panels. The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are quite easily pressed through, besides, if the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then jumpers are visible in the light. There is no such thing in sandwich panels and plastic window sills. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and even there are no jumpers to the clearance.

Photo report 2: we mount plastic slopes with a starting profile

The installation of plastic slopes and according to this technology begins with the preparation of a window opening. We cut exactly the foam, remove everything that does not hold well, clean off the dust, if necessary, we pass along the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.

Along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame, a wooden bar is attached. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost go on the frame. One side of the bar must be worked out with a planer, making a slope. The slope angle of this face is equal to the slope setting angle. It is possible to saw off, but it is even more difficult to do it, except that there is a circular saw with an adjustable angle.

We fasten the processed bar to the walls along the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the material of the wall. If the wall is brick, you can try on self-tapping screws, you need to put dowels in concrete.

You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the bar, fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with staples from a construction stapler, if there is none, you can use small cloves or self-tapping screws with flat heads.

When choosing a starting profile, take a tight one. It is more expensive, but you only care about three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold plastic well, a soft one will bend and the look will turn out ugly. Another point - when mounting the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all, or they are minimal.

At the top, when joining the vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them off exactly at an angle of 45 °. If there are small gaps, they can be repaired with acrylic.

According to this technology, it is more convenient to start the installation of reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed start profile. They are also better to take from expensive and dense, with a thick layer of plastic. If you put cheap ones (ceiling ones), then the front wall is thin, and jumpers will be visible in bright light. In addition, such plastic can be pushed through even with a finger.

The width of the plastic panel should be greater than the slope. If one is not wide enough, two are joined. But then, at the junction, an additional vertical bar will be needed, to which the first strip will be fixed.

The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the opening line. After removing, cut off along the marked line.

We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with mounting foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make it happen, we start from the far lower corner - we draw from the bottom up near the nailed bar. While we reached the top, the bottom of the foam expanded a little. Again we draw a line with foam, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the tracks thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should be. Align and check. Attach to the wall with masking tape. Also install the second part and then the top. It can also be cut out according to a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match with sandpaper.

Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued to the liquid nails. The main task is to cut exactly at the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue on both shelves of the corner, press it, passing your hand along it, hold for a couple of minutes. So they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, until the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.

After a day, we remove the adhesive tape, the plastic slopes are ready.

If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light, it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two, your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it.

Video

See this video for the option of installing slopes with a starting profile screwed to the window frame.

Video option for installing slopes made of plastic without a starting profile.

And another way in this video. Here, pay attention to the finish of the panel joints. They were made using a special profile. Could be so.

No window will look complete if it does not have slopes. Therefore, before the owners of housing when changing window construction or installing a new one, the question invariably arises of how to finish the window slopes with plastic, and why this material is better than others.

What are the advantages of plastic finishing

Undoubtedly, plastic is not the only material that is produced. Can be used ordinary plaster followed by sanding and painting various formulations, or drywall, which also requires further work on applying putty and painting. With regard to plaster slopes, we can say that not everyone can make them on their own. Here, too, professional skill and skill are required.

But the plastic used is good because it combines perfectly flat surface, like drywall and no painting or pasting work. In addition, slopes trimmed with plastic once do not require further repair or periodic painting. All care is to wipe with a damp cloth. Therefore, in Lately Finishing window slopes with plastic has gained wide popularity.

In just one day, you can clad all the slopes in the house, which is much faster if you deal with their plastering or plasterboard finishing. In addition, the use of plastic panels makes it possible to insulate slopes by laying a layer of heat-insulating material under them. A wide choose panels according to color palette and texture will help to harmoniously fit them into the existing interior of the room. And by cost plastic products accessible to almost all segments of the population. With careful operation, their life can be calculated for more than one dozen years.

Specifications of PVC Panels and Sandwich Panels

For the production of such works, PVC panels or plastic sandwich panels are used. Both those and others can be used for facing window slopes inside the house. Their difference lies in the fact that ordinary PVC panels have stiffening ribs inside that are not filled with anything, while a sandwich panel is a three-layer structure, where a layer of insulation is located between two layers of plastic. In its quality, polyurethane foam is often used, as the material that best meets all the requirements - safety, heat preservation and environmental friendliness.

If you do not know how to finish the window slopes with plastic and at the same time insulate, then you should use PVC sandwich panels.

Plastic products create a perfectly flat and smooth surface. They are produced in panels, with dimensions in length from 2700 mm to 6000 mm. The width of standard products varies between 100 mm - 370 mm. However, panels with a wider width, which reaches up to 50 cm, have now appeared on sale. Such plastic panels have sufficient strength, which is provided by stiffening ribs located vertically with respect to the front sides of the product. The resulting air channels create reliable protection from cold and noise.

The plastic used in the production of these panels can withstand temperature differences of ± 20℃. But there are also products in which this limit reaches ± 50℃. The upper, front side of the panel is decorated with various patterns (using offset or thermal printing, lamination) and covered with protective film from a special varnish that is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, wear, static electricity and other negative influences.

How to trim window slopes with plastic - preparatory work

Before you start installing, you need to clean the place of work from construction debris, cut off the bumps of the mounting foam. After that, it is necessary to carry out work to prevent the formation of mold and fungi under the plastic panels. by special means, which smear all the elements that fall under the plastic - walls, frame elements, windowsill.

After that, we proceed to the device of the frame for fastening future plastic panels. The frame, of course, is said loudly, our design will be wooden lath, stuffed around the outer perimeter of the window opening. The rail should be chosen with a thickness of 8–10 mm, a width of 25–30 mm.

When choosing, you need to carefully look at the quality of the rail itself and the wood. It should be dry, not damaged by insects, and the product should be even along the entire length, without twists and bluish spots, which indicate the beginning of the decay process. To attach the rail to the structures framing the window, you will need dowels and wood screws.

Plastic panels are a rather rigid material and cannot close all the smallest gaps at the junctions of the window - the wall, through which it will subsequently penetrate cold air. To prevent this from happening, finishing the window slopes with plastic involves laying insulation materials between the wall and the finishing material. It can be: a thin layer of mineral wool, isolon, polystyrene foam or any other insulation. Such a gasket will reliably protect the interior of the house from drafts and street noise. It is important that the thickness of the insulation is not greater than the thickness of the frame rail. For its fastening, any adhesive composition is used, it is important for us to fix the insulation in a vertical position until it is pressed by a plastic panel.

Finishing slopes with plastic do-it-yourself

After checking the level of correctness of the installed wooden rail relative to the vertical and horizontal, we proceed to install the starting profile. This is a special U-shaped element into which a plastic panel is inserted. The profile along the inner perimeter of the window opening is attached directly to window frame small self-tapping screws (bugs), which are screwed into the inner lower part of the profile. Horizontal elements are attached to the window sill. The upper horizontal segments of the U-shaped profile are sewn to a wooden rail with one edge, and inserted into a vertical element with the other. Special care is required when joining all the elements so that everything looks even and beautiful. In this case, the insulation layer remains between the profile and the wall with a minimum gap.

An F-shaped profile is installed along the outer edge of the window opening, so that its wide shelf goes onto the wall (like a corner). Now you just need to insert the plastic panels into the profiles, inside which you should first apply a certain amount of acrylic sealant, and then glue the outer framing element to the wall using liquid nails. It is necessary to carefully bend the shelf, insert the spout of the balloon with glue and carefully apply the composition along the entire length of the slope, then firmly press the previously bent F-profile shelf and hold it in this state until the glue sets.

In the event that the width of the plastic panels is greater than the width of the vertical slope, the panel is reduced using an ordinary clerical knife. The connection of the vertical panels and the horizontal top is closed with a special plastic corner the same color as the base finishing material. For greater reliability, the corners are glued liquid plastic. You can mask the wooden rail at the top of the window opening by gluing it on the outside plastic casing.